The Voyage
of
Governor Phillip
to
Botany Bay
with an
Account of the Establishment of the Colonies of Port Jackson
and Norfolk Island;
compiled from Authentic Papers,
which have been obtained from the several Departments
to which are added
the Journals of Lieuts. Shortland, Watts, Ball and Capt.
Marshall
with an Account of their New Discoveries,
embellished with fifty five Copper Plates,
the Maps and Charts taken from Actual Surveys,
and the plans and views drawn on the spot,
by Capt. Hunter, Lieuts. Shortland, Watts, Dawes, Bradley,
Capt. Marshall, etc.
London
Printed for John Stockdale, Piccadilly
1789
TO THE MOST NOBLE
THE MARQUIS OF SALISBURY,
LORD CHAMBERLAIN OF HIS MAJESTY’S HOUSEHOLD, ETC., ETC.
THIS VOLUME,
CONTAINING ALL THAT IS YET KNOWN OF THE
SETTLEMENT AT SYDNEY COVE,
IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY
HIS LORDSHIP’S
MUCH OBLIGED, AND
MOST FAITHFUL
HUMBLE SERVANT,
JOHN STOCKDALE.
NOVEMBER 25, 1789.
ANECDOTES OF GOVERNOR PHILLIP.
Arthur Phillip is one of those officers, who, like Drake,
Dampier, and Cook, has raised himself by his merit and his
services, to distinction and command. His father was Jacob
Phillip, a native of Frankfort, in Germany, who having settled in
England, maintained his family and educated his son by teaching
the languages. His mother was Elizabeth Breach, who married for
her first husband, Captain Herbert of the navy, a kinsman of Lord
Pembroke. Of her marriage with Jacob Phillip, was her son,
Arthur, born in the parish of Allhallows, Bread-street, within
the city of London, on the 11th of October, 1738.
Being designed for a seafaring life, he was very properly sent
to the school of Greenwich, where he received an education
suitable to his early propensities. At the age of sixteen, he
began his maritime career, under the deceased Captain Michael
Everet of the navy, at the commencement of hostilities, in 1755:
and at the same time that he learned the rudiments of his
profession under that able officer, he partook with him in the
early misfortunes, and subsequent glories of the seven years war.
Whatever opulence Phillip acquired from the capture of the
Havannah, certain it is, that, at the age of twenty-three, he
there was made a Lieutenant into the Stirling-castle, on the 7th
of June, 1761, by Sir George Pococke, an excellent judge of naval
accomplishments.
But of nautical exploits, however they may raise marine
officers, there must be an end. Peace, with its blessings, was
restored in 1763. And Phillip now found leisure to marry; and to
settle at Lyndhurst, in the New Forest, where he amused himself
with farming, and like other country gentlemen, discharged
assiduously those provincial offices, which, however unimportant,
occupy respectably the owners of land, who, in this island,
require no office to make them important.
But sailors, like their own element, are seldom at rest. Those
occupations, which pleased Phillip while they were new, no longer
pleased him when they became familiar. And he hastened to offer
his skill and his services to Portugal when it engaged in warfare
with Spain. His offer was readily accepted, because such skill
and services were necessary amidst an arduous struggle with a too
powerful opponent. And, such was his conduct and such his
success, that when the recent interference of France, in 1778,
made it his duty to fight for his king, and to defend his
country, the Portugueze court regretted his departure, but
applauded his motive.
His return was doubtless approved by those who, knowing his
value, could advance his rank: For he was made master and
commander into the Basilisk fireship, on the 2d of September,
1779. But in her he had little opportunity of displaying his
zeal, or of adding to his fame. This step, however, led him up to
a higher situation; and he was made post-captain into the Ariadne
frigate, on the 13th of November, 1781, when he was upwards of
three and forty. This is the great epoch in the lives of our
naval officers, because it is from this that they date their
rank. In the Ariadne, he had little time for active adventures,
or for gainful prizes, being appointed to the Europe of
sixty-four guns, on the 23d of December, 1781. During the
memorable year 1782, Phillip promoted its enterprises, and shared
in its glories. And in January, 1783, he sailed with a
reinforcement to the East Indies, where superior bravery
contended against superior force, till the policy of our
negotiators put an end to unequal hostilities by a necessary
peace.
The activity, or the zeal of Phillip, was now turned to more
peaceful objects. And when it was determined to form a settlement
on that part of New Holland, denominated New South Wales, he was
thought of as a proper officer to conduct an enterprize, which
required professional knowledge, and habitual prudence. His
equipment, his voyage, and his settlement, in the other
hemisphere, will be found in the following volume. When the time
shall arrive that the European settlers on Sydney Cove demand
their historian, these authentic anecdotes of their pristine
legislator will be sought for as curious, and considered as
important.
ERRATA (These have been corrected in this eBook)
Page, line
1, 15, for enterprizes, read enterprises.
13, penult. for only fifty, read an hundred.
Ibid. ult. for Penryn, read Penrhyn.
75, 7, for Surprize, read Surprise.
87, 14, after 17, dele th.
96, 13, for into, read in.
149, 10, for Kangooroo, read Kanguroo. The orthography of a word
derived only from oral sound is in some degree arbitrary; but it
ought to be consistant. The plates, by mistake, have Kangooroo.
185, 14, for it were were, read if it were.
203, 3, for Fobn, read Thomas.
213, 10, for four, read forty.
228, 23, bis, for Macauley, read Macaulay.
231, 15, for Patri, read Pabi.
252, Margin, for May, read June.
253, Ditto.
255, Margin, for July, read June.
256, Ditto.
232, 18, for Taha, read Toha.
242, 9, for who, read whom.
246, 25, for veer’d, read near’d.
N. B. Some of the early impressions of the plates have
erroneously Wulpine Oppossum for Vulpine Opossum. After a few
were work’d off the fault was perceived, and corrected.
ADVERTISEMENT.
The arrangement of materials in this volume being in some
respects less perfect than might be wished, it is necessary that
something should be said to obviate any imputation of negligence.
The truth will be the best, and, as it ought, the only apology.
The official papers of Governor Phillip, which were liberally
communicated by Government, formed at first our principal source
of intelligence. These, from their nature, could contain but
little information on subjects of natural history, and many other
points, concerning which the curiosity of every reader would
naturally be excited. The efforts of the publisher to give
satisfaction to the public in these respects produced a gradual
influx of materials; and the successive arrival of different
vessels from the Indian seas, occasioned additions to the work,
which made it necessary to engrave new plates. While, therefore,
the completion of the book was anxiously pressed by many who were
eager to possess it, that desirable point has constantly been
deferred by the communications of those who were studious to
render it more valuable; and the word Finis, has seemed to fly
from us, like Italy before the wandering Trojans. From the
combination of these circumstances it has arisen, that every
separate part has been hurried on in the execution; and yet, in
the finishing of the whole, more time has elapsed, than would
have been necessary to complete a much more ample volume. The
defects that proceed from these causes, it is hoped, the reader
will forgive, and accept with complacency a volume in which, it
is confidently hoped, nothing material has been omitted that is
connected with its principal object, the formation of a
settlement promising both glory and advantage to this country; in
which several important discoveries are announced; no small
accession is made to the stores of natural history; and
interesting notices are communicated of countries visited before,
and persons in whose fate the public has long felt an
interest.
The publisher thinks it his duty, in this place, to return
thanks to the following noblemen and gentlemen, for their kind
assistance and free communications. The Marquis of Salisbury,
Viscount Sydney, Lord Hood, Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. Mr. Rose, Mr.
Nepean, Mr. Stephens, Sir Charles Middleton, Sir Andrew Snape
Hammond, Mr. Dalrymple, and Mr. Chalmers: but, to Mr. Latham
particularly, the most grateful acknowledgements are due, for
having furnished many drawings and accurate descriptions, which
stamp a value on the natural history contained in this work, and
must for ever render it an object of attention to all lovers of
that science: and to Lieutenant Shortland, Lieutenant Watts, and
Captain Marshall, of the Scarborough transport, the public owe
whatever important discoveries and useful knowledge may be found
in their journals, which they communicated with a
disinterestedness that the publisher will be always happy to
acknowledge.
ACCOUNT OF THE VIGNETTE.
The elegant vignette in the title-page, was engraved from a
medallion which the ingenious Mr. Wedge-wood caused to be
modelled from a small piece of clay brought from Sydney Cove. The
clay proves to be of a fine texture, and will be found very
useful for the manufactory of earthern ware. The design is
allegorical; it represents Hope encouraging Art and Labour, under
the influence of Peace, to pursue the employments necessary to
give security and happiness to an infant settlement. The
following verses upon the same subject, and in allusion to the
medallion, were written by the author of The Botanic Garden, and
will speak more powerfully for themselves than any encomium we
could bestow.
VISIT OF HOPE TO SYDNEY-COVE, NEAR BOTANY-BAY.
Where Sydney Cove her lucid bosom swells,
Courts her young navies, and the storm repels;
High on a rock amid the troubled air
HOPE stood sublime, and wav’d her golden hair;
Calm’d with her rosy smile the tossing deep,
And with sweet accents charm’d the winds to sleep;
To each wild plain she stretch’d her snowy hand,
High-waving wood, and sea-encircled strand.
“Hear me,” she cried, “ye rising Realms! record
“Time’s opening scenes, and Truth’s unerring word.–
“There shall broad streets their stately walls extend,
“The circus widen, and the crescent bend;
“There, ray’d from cities o’er the cultur’d land,
“Shall bright canals, and solid roads expand.–
“There the proud arch, Colossus-like, bestride
“Yon glittering streams, and bound the chasing tide;
“Embellish’d villas crown the landscape-scene,
“Farms wave with gold, and orchards blush between.–
“There shall tall spires, and dome-capt towers ascend,
“And piers and quays their massy structures blend;
“While with each breeze approaching vessels glide,
“And northern treasures dance on every tide!”–
Then ceas’d the nymph–tumultuous echoes roar,
And JOY’s loud voice was heard from shore to shore–
Her graceful steps descending press’d the plain,
And PEACE, and ART, and LABOUR, join’d her train.
VIEW of the FLEET and ESTABLISHMENT sent out with GOVERNOR
PHILLIP to NEW SOUTH WALES.
Captain ARTHUR PHILLIP of the Navy, Governor and Commander in
Chief of the territory of New South Wales, and of his Majesty’s
ships and vessels employed on that coast.
Major Robert Ross, Lieutenant Governor.
Richard Johnson, Chaplain.
Andrew Miller, Commissary.
David Collins, Judge Advocate.
John Long, Adjutant.
James Furzer, Quarter-Master.
*George Alexander, Provost Martial.
John White, Surgeon.
Thomas Arndell, Assistant Ditto.
William Balmain, Ditto Ditto.
[* This Gentleman did not go]
His Majesty’s ship Sirius,
Captain Arthur Phillip.
Captain John Hunter.
His Majesty’s armed tender Supply,
Lieutenant H. L. Ball.
Six transports carrying the convicts.
Alexander 210 men convicts. women convicts.
Scarborough 210 men convicts.
Friendship 80 men convicts. 24
Charlotte 100 men convicts. 24
Prince of Wales — — 100
Lady Penrhyn — — 102
Each transport had a detachment of marines on board.
Three store ships:
The Golden Grove, Fishburn, and Borrowdale;
With provisions, implements for husbandry, cloathing,
etc. for the convicts.
Lieutenant John Shortland, agent for the transports.
The garrison is formed from the marines.
CONTENTS
ANECDOTES OF GOVERNOR PHILLIP.
VISIT OF HOPE TO SYDNEY COVE, NEAR BOTANY
BAY.
VIEW OF THE FLEET AND ESTABLISHMENT SENT OUT
TO N.S.W.
Public utility of voyages–Peculiar circumstances of this–New
Holland properly a continent–Reasons for fixing our settlement
there–Transportation to America, its origin, advantages, and
cessation–Experiments made–The present plan
adopted–Disadvantages of other expedients.
Preparation of the fleet ordered to Botany Bay.–Particulars
of its arrangement.–Departure and passage to the Canary
Isles.
Reasons for touching at the Canary Isles–Precautions for
preserving Health–Their admirable Success–Some Account of the
Canaries–Fables respecting them–Attempt of a Convict to
escape–Departure. Report of the Marines and Convicts under
medical treatment, June 4, 1787
Attempt to put in at Port Praya–Relinquished–Weather–Sail
for Rio de Faneiro–Reasons for touching at a South American
port–The Fleet passes the Line–Arrives at Rio de
Faneiro–Account of that Place–Transactions
there–Departure.
Prosperous passage from Rio to the Cape–Account of the
Harbours there–The Cape of Good Hope not the most Southern
point–Height of Table Mountain and others–Supineness of the
European nations in neglecting to occupy the Cape–Live stock
laid in–Departure–Separation of the fleet–Arrival of the
Supply at Botany Bay.
First interview with the natives–the bay examined–arrival of
the whole fleet–Port Jackson examined–second interview with the
natives–and third–Governor Phillip returns to Botany Bay–and
gives orders for the evacuation of it.
Removal from Botany Bay–Arrival of two French ships–Account
of them–Preparations for encampment–Difficulties–Scurvy breaks
out–Account of the red and yellow gum trees.
Description of Port Jackson and the adjacent country–The
Governor’s commission read–his Speech–his humane resolutions
respecting the Natives–difficulties in erecting huts and other
buildings–departure of Lieutenant King to Norfolk Island.
Instructions for P. G. King, Esq; Superintendant and Commandant
of the Settlement of Norfolk Island
A Criminal Court held–Broken Bay explored by Governor
Phillip–Interviews with the Natives–Peculiarities
remarked–Friendly behaviour and extraordinary courage of an old
man.
Departure of the French Ships–Death of M. Le Receveur–Return
of the Supply from Norfolk Island–Description of that
Place–Howe Island discovered. Particulars of the life of P. G.
King, Esq
Three of the transports cleared–Two excursions made into the
country, on the fifteenth of April, and on the
twenty-second–Huts of the natives–Sculpture, and other
particulars. Description of the Kanguroo. Dimensions of the
stuffed Kanguroo, in the possession of Mr. Stockdale. Account of
the live stock in the settlement at Port Jackson, May 1, 1788
The Supply returns from Lord Howe Island–Some convicts
assaulted by the natives–excursion of Governor Phillip to Botany
Bay by Land–interview with many natives–the fourth of June
celebrated–some account of the climate. Return of Sick, etc.
June 30, 1788
Particular description of Sydney Cove–Of the buildings
actually erected–and of the intended town–A settlement made at
the head of the harbour.
Fish violently seized by the natives–Another expedition of
the Governor–Further account of the manners and manufactures of
the native inhabitants of New South Wales–Difficulty of
obtaining any intercourse. Remarks and Directions for sailing
into PORT JACKSON, by Capt. J. HUNTER, of the SIRIUS. Height of
neap and spring tides, at full and change of the moon.
Some Specimens of Animals from New South Wales; description of
The spotted Opossum; Vulpine Opossum; Norfolk Island
Flying-Squirrel. Blue Bellied Parrot; Tabuan Parrot; Pennantian
Parrot; Pacific Parrakeet; Sacred King’s-fisher; Superb Warbler,
male; Superb Warbler, female; Caspian Tern; Norfolk Island
Petrel; Bronze-winged Pigeon; White-fronted Heron; Wattled
Bee-Eater; Psittaceous Hornbill; dimensions of a large
Kanguroo.
Papers relative to the settlement at Port Jackson.–General
return of marines.–Return of officers.–Artificers belonging to
the Marine Detachment.–List of officers and privates desirous of
remaining in the country.–Return of provisions.–Return of
Sick.
Nautical directions, and other detached remarks, by Lieutenant
Ball, concerning Rio de Janeiro, Norfolk Island, Ball Pyramid,
and Lord Howe Island.
Concise account of Lieutenant Shortland–His various
services–Appointed agent to the transports sent to New South
Wales–Ordered by Governor Phillip to England, by
Batavia–Journal of his voyage–New discoveries.
August 1788 to February 1789
Appearance of the scurvy–The boats land at one of the Pelew
Islands–Account of the Natives who were seen, and conjectures
concerning them–Distresses–The Friendship cleared and
sunk–Miserable condition of the Alexander when she reached
Batavia.–Conclusion.
Lieutenant Watts’s Narrative of the Return of the Lady Penrhyn
Transport; containing an Account of the Death of Omai, and other
interesting Particulars at Otaheite.
The Scarborough leaves Port Jackson–Touches at Lord Howe’s
Island–Joins the Charlotte–Falls in with a large
Shoal–Discover a number of Islands–Short account of the
Inhabitants–Canoes described–Ornaments– Discover Lord
Mulgrave’s Islands–Arrival at Tinian–Sick people sent on
shore–Departure from Tinian–Arrival in Mocao Roads.
Supplemental Account of Animals from New South Wales,
containing, Descriptions of the Bankian Cockatoo; Red-shouldered
Parrakeet; Crested Goat Sucker; New Holland Cassowary; White
Gallinule; Dog from New South Wales; Spotted Martin; Kanguroo
Rat; Laced Lizard; Port Jackson Shark; Bag Throated Balistes;
Unknown Fish from New South Wales; Watts’s Shark; Great Brown
Kingsfisher.–Additional Account of the Kanguroo–Anecdote of
Captain Cook and Otoo, by Mr. Webber.–Dr. Blane’s Account of the
good Effects of the Yellow Gum.–Botany Bay Plants.–Lieut.
Watts’s Account of the Weather at Botany Bay and Port
Jackson.–Conclusion.
Table I. Route of the Alexander, Lieutenant Shortland, from
the Cape of Good Hope to Botany Bay
Table II. Route of the Supply, Lieut. Ball, after parting with
the Alexander, to Botany Bay
Table III. Route of the Supply, Lieut. Ball, from Port Jackson to
Norfolk Island
Table IV. Route of the Supply from Norfolk Island to Port
Jackson
Table V. Route of the Supply from Port Jackson to Lord Howe
Island, and from thence to Port Jackson
Table VI. Route of the Alexander, Lieut. Shortland, from Port
Jackson to Batavia
Table VII. Route of the Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, from Port
Jackson to Otaheite
Table VIII.Route of the Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, from Otaheite
to China
Table IX. Route of the Scarborough, Capt. Marshall, from Port
Jackson to China
List of the Convicts sent to New South Wales
A LIST OF THE SUBSCRIBERS.
LIST OF THE PLATES.
Vignette in title page–for an
explanation see the Preface
Skeleton of the Head of the Kanguroo and
Vulpine Opossum
Map and View of Lord Howe Island
Chart of the Track of the
Alexander
Shortland’s Chart of New Georgia
A Canoe, etc. Mulgrave’s Range
Chapter I.
Public utility of voyages–Peculiar circumstances of this–New
Holland properly a continent–Reasons for fixing our settlement
there–Transportation to America, its origin, advantages, and
cessation–Experiments made–The present plan
adopted–Disadvantages of other expedients.
From voyages undertaken expressly for the purpose of
discovery, the public naturally looks for information of various
kinds: and it is a fact which we cannot but contemplate with
pleasure, that by the excellent publications subsequent to such
enterprises, very considerable additions have been made, during
the present reign, to our general knowledge of the globe, of the
various tribes by which it is peopled, and of the animals and
vegetables to which it gives support.
An expedition occasioned by motives of legislative policy,
carried on by public authority, and concluded by a fixed
establishment in a country very remote, not only excites an
unusual interest concerning the fate of those sent out, but
promises to lead us to some points of knowledge which, by the
former mode, however judiciously employed, could not have been
attained. A transient visit to the coast of a great continent
cannot, in the nature of things, produce a complete information
respecting its inhabitants, productions, soil, or climate: all
which when contemplated by resident observers, in every possible
circumstance of variation, though they should be viewed with less
philosophical acuteness, must yet gradually become more fully
known: Errors, sometimes inseparable from hasty observation, will
then be corrected by infallible experience; and many objects will
present themselves to view, which before had escaped notice, or
had happened to be so situated that they could not be
observed.
The full discovery of the extent of New Holland, by our
illustrious navigator, Capt. Cook, has formed a singular epocha
in geography; a doubt having arisen from it, whether to a land of
such magnitude the name of island or that of continent may more
properly be applied. To this question it may be answered, that
though the etymology of the word island,* and of others
synonymous to it, points out only a land surrounded by the sea,
or by any water, (in which sense the term is applicable even to
the largest portions of the habitable globe) yet it is certain
that, in the usual acceptation, an island is conceived to signify
a land of only moderate extent, surrounded by the sea.** To
define at what point of magnitude precisely, a country so
situated shall begin to be a continent, could not answer any
purpose of utility; but the best and clearest rule for removing
the doubt appears to be the following: As long as the peculiar
advantages of an insular situation can be enjoyed by the
inhabitants of such a country, let it have the title of an
island; when it exceeds those limits let it be considered as a
continent. Now the first and principal advantage of an island, is
that of being capable of a convenient union under one government,
and of deriving thence a security from all external attacks,
except by sea. In lands of very great magnitude such an union is
difficult, if not impracticable, and a distinction founded on
this circumstance, is therefore sufficient for convenience at
least, if*** not for speculative accuracy. If we suppose this
extent to be something about one thousand miles each way,
without, however, affecting much rigour in the limitation, the
claim of New Holland to be called a continent, will be
indisputable: The greatest extent of that vast country being,
from East to West, about two thousand four hundred English miles,
and, from North to South, not less than two thousand three
hundred.****
[* Insula, from which island is derived, is formed from in
sulo, in the sea; and, the corresponding word in Greek, is
usually deduced from to swim, as appearing, and probably having
been originally supposed to swim in the sea.]
[** Thus when Dionysius Periegetes considers the whole ancient
world as surrounded by the sea, he calls it, an immense island;
on which Eustathius remarks, that the addition of the epithet
immense was necessary, otherwise the expression would have been
low and inadequate.]
[*** We do not here consider whether a country be actually
united under one government, but whether from its size it might
be so conveniently. If we might derive from, or to inhabit, the
etymological distinction would be complete on these principles.
An island being one distinct habitation of men; and a continent
land continued from one state to another. The former derivation
might be rendered specious by remarking how singularly Homer and
others use with, as if they had a natural connection. See II. B.
626. and, Sophoc. Ajax. 601.]
[**** In or near the latitude of 30° South, New Holland
extends full 40 degrees of longitude, which, under that parallel,
may be estimated at 60 English miles to a degree. The extent from
York Cape to South Cape is full 33 degrees of latitude, which are
calculated of course at 69½ English miles each.]
To New South Wales England has the claim which a tacit consent
has generally made decisive among the European States, that of
prior discovery. The whole of that Eastern coast, except the very
Southern point, having been untouched by any navigator, till it
was explored by Captain Cook. This consideration, added to the
more favourable accounts given of this side of the continent than
of the other, was sufficient to decide the choice of the British
government, in appointing a place for the banishment of a certain
class of criminals.
The cause of the determination to send out in this manner the
convicts under sentence of transportation, was, as is well known,
the necessary cessation of their removal to America; and the
inconveniences experienced in the other modes of destination
adopted after that period.
Virginia, greatly in want, at its first settlement, of
labourers to clear away the impenetrable forests which impeded
all cultivation, was willing, from very early times, to receive
as servants, those English criminals whom our Courts of Law
deemed not sufficiently guilty for capital punishment.* The
planters hired their services during a limited term; and they
were latterly sent out under the care of contractors, who were
obliged to prove, by certificates, that they had disposed of
them, according to the intention of the law.
[* Banishment was first ordered as a punishment for rogues and
vagrants, by statute 39 Eliz. ch. 4. See Blackst. Com. IV. chap.
31. But no place was there specified. The practice of
transporting criminals to America is said to have commenced in
the reign of James I; the year 1619 being the memorable epoch of
its origin: but that destination is first expressly mentioned in
18 Car. II. ch. 2.–The transport traffic was first regulated by
statute 4 George I. ch. II. and the causes expressed in the
preamble to be, the failure of those who undertook to transport
themselves, and the great want of servants in his Majesty’s
plantations. Subsequent Acts enforced further regulations.]
The benefits of this regulation were various. The colonies
received by it, at an easy rate, an assistance very necessary;
and the mother country was relieved from the burthen of subjects,
who at home were not only useless but pernicious: besides which,
the mercantile returns, on this account alone, are reported to
have arisen, in latter times, to a very considerable amount.* The
individuals themselves, doubtless, in some instances, proved
incorrigible; but it happened also, not very unfrequently, that,
during the period of their legal servitude, they became
reconciled to a life of honest industry, were altogether reformed
in their manners, and rising gradually by laudable efforts, to
situations of advantage, independence, and estimation,
contributed honourably to the population and prosperity of their
new country.**
[* It is said, forty thousand pounds per annum, about two
thousand convicts being sold for twenty pounds each.]
[** The Abbe Raynal has given his full testimony to the policy
of this species of banishment, in the fourteenth Book of his
History, near the beginning.]
By the contest in America, and the subsequent separation of
the thirteen Colonies, this traffic was of course destroyed.
Other expedients, well known to the public, have since been
tried; some of which proved highly objectionable;* and all have
been found to want some of the principal advantages experienced
from the usual mode of transportation.–The deliberations upon
this subject, which more than once employed the attention of
Parliament, produced at length the plan of which this volume
displays the first result. On December 6, 1786, the proper orders
were issued by his Majesty in Council, and an Act establishing a
Court of Judicature in the place of settlement, and making such
other regulations as the occasion required, received the sanction
of the whole legislature early in the year 1787.
[* Particularly, the transporting of criminals to the
coast of Africa, where what was meant as an alleviation of
punishment too frequently ended in death.]
To expatiate upon the principles of penal law is foreign to
the purpose of this work, but thus much is evident to the
plainest apprehension, that the objects most to be desired in it
are the restriction of the number of capital inflictions, as far
as is consistent with the security of society; and the employment
of every method that can be devised for rendering the guilty
persons serviceable to the public, and just to themselves; for
correcting their moral depravity, inducing habits of industry,
and arming them in future against the temptations by which they
have been once ensnared.
For effectuating these beneficial purposes, well regulated
penitentiary houses seem, in speculation, to afford the fairest
opportunity; and a plan of this kind, formed by the united
efforts of Judge Blackstone, Mr. Eden, and Mr. Howard, was
adopted by Parliament in the year 1779. Difficulties however
occurred which prevented the execution of this design: a
circumstance which will be something the less regretted when it
shall be considered, that it is perhaps the fate of this theory,
in common with many others of a very pleasing nature, to be more
attractive in contemplation than efficacious in real practice. A
perfect design, carried on by imperfect agents, is liable to lose
the chief part of its excellence; and the best digested plan of
confinement must in execution be committed, chiefly, to men not
much enlightened, very little armed against corruption, and
constantly exposed to the danger of it. The vigilance which in
the infancy of such institutions effectually watches over the
conduct of these public servants, will always in a little time be
relaxed; and it will readily be conceived that a large
penitentiary house, very corruptly governed, would be, of all
associations, one of the most pernicious to those confined, and
most dangerous to the peace of society.
In some countries, malefactors not capitally convicted, are
sentenced to the gallies or the mines; punishments often more
cruel than death, and here, on many accounts, impracticable. In
other places they are employed in public works, under the care of
overseers. This method has been partially tried in England on the
Thames, but has been found by no means to produce the benefits
expected from it. There is, therefore, little temptation to
pursue it to a further extent. The employment of criminals in
works carried on under the public eye, is perhaps too repugnant
to the feelings of Englishmen ever to be tolerated. Reason,
indeed, acquiesces in the melancholy necessity of punishing, but
chains and badges of servitude are unpleasing objects, and
compassion will always revolt at the sight of actual infliction.
Convicts so employed would either by an ill placed charity be
rewarded, or the people, undergoing a change of character far
from desirable, would in time grow callous to those impressions
which naturally impel them to give relief.
It remains therefore, that we adhere as much as possible to
the practice approved by long experience, of employing the
services of such criminals in remote and rising settlements. For
this purpose the establishment on the eastern coast of New
Holland has been projected, and carried on with every precaution
to render it as beneficial as possible. That some difficulties
will arise in the commencement of such an undertaking must be
expected; but it is required by no moral obligation that convicts
should be conveyed to a place of perfect convenience and
security; and though the voluntary emigrants and honourable
servants of the state, must in some measure, be involved for a
time in the same disadvantages, yet to have resisted difficulties
is often finally an advantage rather than an evil; and there are
probably few persons so circumstanced who will repine at moderate
hardships, when they reflect that by undergoing them they are
rendering an essential and an honourable service to their
country.
Chapter II.
March 1787 to June 1787
Preparation of the fleet ordered to Botany Bay.–Particulars
of its arrangement.–Departure and passage to the Canary
Isles.
16 March 1787
The squadron destined to carry into execution the above
design, began to assemble at its appointed rendezvous, the Mother
Bank, within the Isle of Wight, about the 16th of March, 1787.
This small fleet consisted of the following ships: His Majesty’s
frigate Sirius, Captain John Hunter, and his Majesty’s armed
tender Supply, commanded by Lieutenant H. L. Ball. Three
store-ships, the Golden Grove, Fishburn, and Borrowdale, for
carrying provisions and stores for two years; including
instruments of husbandry, clothing for the troops and convicts,
and other necessaries; and lastly, six transports, the
Scarborough, and Lady Penrhyn, from Portsmouth; the Friendship,
and Charlotte, from Plymouth; the Prince of Wales, and the
Alexander, from Woolwich. These were to carry the convicts, with
a detachment of Marines in each, proportioned to the nature of
the service; the largest where resistance was most to be
expected, namely, in those ships which carried the greatest
number of male convicts. Altogether they formed a little squadron
of eleven sail.
They only who know the nature of such equipments, and consider
the particular necessity in the present instance for a variety of
articles not usually provided, can judge properly of the time
required for furnishing out this fleet. Such persons will
doubtless be the least surprised at being told that nearly two
months had elapsed before the ships were enabled to quit this
station, and proceed upon their voyage: and that even then some
few articles were either unprepared, or, through misapprehension,
neglected. The former circumstance took place respecting some
part of the cloathing for the female convicts, which, being
unfinished, was obliged to be left behind; the latter, with
respect to the ammunition of the marines, which was furnished
only for immediate service, instead of being, as the Commodore
apprehended, completed at their first embarkation: an omission
which, in the course of the voyage, was easily supplied.
This necessary interval was very usefully employed, in making
the convicts fully sensible of the nature of their situation; in
pointing out to them the advantages they would derive from good
conduct, and the certainty of severe and immediate punishment in
case of turbulence or mutiny. Useful regulations were at the same
time established for the effectual governing of these people; and
such measures were taken as could not fail to render abortive any
plan they might be desperate enough to form for resisting
authority, seizing any of the transports, or effecting, at any
favourable period, an escape. We have, however, the testimony of
those who commanded, that their behaviour, while the ships
remained in port, was regular, humble, and in all respects
suitable to their situation: such as could excite neither
suspicion nor alarm, nor require the exertion of any kind of
severity.
When the fleet was at length prepared for sailing, the
complement of convicts and marines on board the transports was
thus arranged. The Friendship carried a Captain and forty-four
marines, subalterns and privates, with seventy-seven male and
twenty female convicts. The Charlotte, a Captain and forty-three
men, with eighty-eight male and twenty female convicts. In the
Alexander, were two Lieutenants and thirty-five marines, with two
hundred and thirteen convicts, all male. In the Scarborough, a
Captain and thirty-three marines, with male convicts only, two
hundred and eight in number. The Prince of Wales transport had
two Lieutenants and thirty marines, with an hundred convicts, all
female. And the Lady Penrhyn, a Captain, two Lieutenants, and
only three privates, with one hundred and two female convicts.
Ten marines, of different denominations, were also sent as
supernumeraries on board the Sirius. The whole complement of
marines, including officers, amounted to two hundred and twelve;
besides which, twenty-eight women, wives of marines, carrying
with them seventeen children, were permitted to accompany their
husbands. The number of convicts was seven hundred and
seventy-eight, of whom five hundred and fifty-eight were men.
Two, however, on board the Alexander, received a full pardon
before the departure of the fleet, and consequently remained in
England.
13 May 1787
Governor Phillip, on his arrival at the station, hoisted his
flag on board the Sirius, as Commodore of the squadron: and the
embarkation being completed, and the time requiring his
departure, at day break on the 13th of May, he gave the signal to
weigh anchor. To the distance of about an hundred leagues clear
of the channel, his Majesty’s frigate Hyena, of twenty-four guns,
was ordered to attend the fleet, in order to bring intelligence
of its passage through that most difficult part of the voyage;
with any dispatches which it might be requisite for the Governor
to send home.
20 May 1787
On the 20th of May, the ships being then in latitude 47°
57′, and longitude 12° 14′ west of London, the Hyena
returned. She brought, however, no exact account of the state of
the transports; for the sea at that time ran so high, that the
Governor found it difficult even to sit to write, and quite
impracticable to send on board the several ships for exact
reports of their situation, and of the behaviour of the convicts.
All, however, had not been perfectly tranquil; the convicts in
the Scarborough, confiding probably in their numbers, had formed
a plan for gaining possession of that ship, which the officers
had happily detected and frustrated. This information was
received from them just before the Hyena sailed, and the Governor
had ordered two of the ringleaders on board the Sirius for
punishment. These men, after receiving a proper chastisement,
were separated from their party by being removed into another
ship, the Prince of Wales. No other attempt of this kind was made
during the voyage.
We may now consider the adventurers in this small fleet as
finally detached, for the present, from their native country;
looking forward, doubtless with very various emotions, to that
unknown region, which, for a time at least, they were destined to
inhabit. If we would indulge a speculative curiosity, concerning
the tendency of such an enterprize, there are few topics which
would afford an ampler scope for conjecture. The sanguine might
form expectations of extraordinary consequences, and be
justified, in some degree, by the reflection, that from smaller,
and not more respectable beginnings, powerful empires have
frequently arisen. The phlegmatic and apprehensive might magnify
to themselves the difficulties of the undertaking, and
prognosticate, from various causes, the total failure of it.
Both, perhaps, would be wrong. The opinion nearest to the right
was probably formed by the Governor himself, and such others
among the leaders of the expedition, as from native courage, felt
themselves superior to all difficulties likely to occur; and by
native good sense were secured from the seduction of romantic
reveries. To all it must appear a striking proof of the
flourishing state of navigation in the present age, and a
singular illustration of its vast progress since the early
nautical efforts of mankind; that whereas the ancients coasted
with timidity along the shores of the Mediterranean, and thought
it a great effort to run across the narrow sea which separates
Crete from Egypt, Great Britain, without hesitation, sends out a
fleet to plant a settlement near the antipodes.
3 June 1787
The high sea which had impeded the intercourse between the
ships, as they were out of the reach of rocks and shoals, was
not, in other respects, an unfavourable circumstance. On the
whole, therefore, the weather was reckoned fine, and the passage
very prosperous from Spithead to Santa Cruz, in the Isle of
Teneriffe, where the fleet anchored on the 3d of June.
Chapter III.
June 1787
Reasons for touching at the Canary Isles–Precautions for
preserving Health–Their admirable Success–Some Account of the
Canaries–Fables respecting them–Attempt of a Convict to
escape–Departure.
3 June 1787
The chief object proposed by Governor Phillip in touching at
Teneriffe, was the obtaining a fresh supply of water and
vegetables. It was adviseable also at this period to give the
people such advantages and refreshments, for the sake of health,
as this place would readily supply, but which can only be
obtained on shore. In this, and every port, the crews, soldiers,
and convicts, were indulged with fresh meat, fruit, vegetables,
and every thing which could conduce to preserve them from the
complaints formerly inevitable in long voyages. The allowance
was, to the marines, a pound of bread, a pound of beef, and a
pint of wine per man, daily: the convicts had three quarters of a
pound of beef, and of bread, but no wine. The fruits obtained
here were only figs and mulberries, but these were plentiful and
excellent. How successfully precautions of every kind, tending to
this great end, were employed throughout the voyage, the reports
of the number of sick and dead will sufficiently evince.
Captain Cook had very fully shown, how favourable such
expeditions might be made to the health of those engaged in them;
and Governor Phillip was happy enough to confirm the opinion,
that the success of his great predecessor, in this essential
point, was not in any degree the effect of chance, but arose from
that care and attention of which he has humanely given us the
detail; and which, in similar circumstances, may generally be
expected to produce the same result. If the number of convicts
who died between the time of embarkation and the arrival of the
fleet at this place, should seem inconsistent with this
assertion, it must be considered that the deaths were confined
entirely to that class of people, many of whom were advanced in
years, or labouring under diseases contracted in prison or
elsewhere, while they were yet on shore.
A week was passed at this place, during which time the weather
was very moderate, the thermometer not exceeding 70° of
Fahrenheit’s scale. The barometer stood at about 30 inches.
The Governor of the Canaries, at this time, was the Marquis de
Brancifort, by birth a Sicilian. He was resident as usual at
Santa Cruz, and paid to Governor Phillip, and the other officers,
a polite attention and respect equally honourable to all parties.
The port of Santa Cruz, though not remarkably fine, is yet the
best in the Canaries, and the usual place at which vessels touch
for refreshment; the residence of the Governor General is
therefore fixed always in Teneriffe, for the sake of a more
frequent intercourse with Europe: in preference to the great
Canary Isle, which contains the Metropolitan church, and the
palace of the Bishop. The Marquis de Brancifort has lately
established some useful manufactures in Teneriffe.
To enter into much detail concerning the Canary Islands, which
lie exactly in the course of every ship that sails from Europe to
the Cape, and consequently have been described in almost every
book of voyages, must be superfluous. A few general notices
concerning them may, perhaps, not be unacceptable. They are in
number about fourteen, of which the principal, and only
considerable are, Canary, Teneriffe, Fortaventure, Palma, Ferro,
Gomera, Lancerotta. Their distance from the coast of Africa is
from about forty to eighty leagues. The circumference of
Teneriffe is not above one hundred and twenty miles, but that of
Canary, or as it is usually called, the Great Canary, is one
hundred and fifty. They have been possessed and colonized by
Spain from the beginning of the 15th century.
There is no reason to doubt that these are the islands
slightly known to the ancients under the name of Fortunate:
though the mistake of Ptolemy concerning their latitude has led
one of the commentators on Solinus to contend, that this title
belongs rather to the Islands of Cape Verd. Pliny mentions
Canaria, and accounts for that name from the number of large dogs
which the island contained; a circumstance which some modern
voyagers, perhaps with little accuracy, repeat as having
occasioned the same name to be given by the Spaniards. Nivaria,
spoken of by the same author, is evidently Teneriffe, and
synonymous, if we are rightly informed, to the modern name*.
Ombrion, or Pluvialia, is supposed to be Ferro; where the dryness
of the soil has at all times compelled the inhabitants to depend
for water on the rains.
[* Occasioned by the perpetual snows with which the Peak is
covered. Tener is said to mean snow, and itte or iffe a mountain,
in the language of the island.]
If the ancients made these islands the region of fable, and
their poets decorated them with imaginary charms to supply the
want of real knowledge, the moderns cannot wholly be exempted
from a similar imputation. Travellers have delighted to speak of
the Peak of Teneriffe, as the highest mountain in the ancient
world, whereas, by the best accounts, Mont Blanc exceeds it* by
3523 feet, or near a mile of perpendicular altitude. The Isle of
Ferro, having no such mountain to distinguish it, was celebrated
for a century or two on the credit of a miraculous tree, single
in its kind, enveloped in perpetual mists, and distilling
sufficient water for the ample supply of the island.** But this
wonder, though vouched by several voyagers, and by some as
eye-witnesses, vanished at the approach of sober enquiry, nor
could a single native be found hardy enough to assert its
existence. The truth is, that the Canary Isles, though a valuable
possession to Spain, and an excellent resource to voyagers of all
nations, contain no wonders, except what belong naturally to
volcanic mountains such as the Peak, which, though it always
threatens, has not now been noxious for more than eighty
years***.
[* The height of Mont Blanc, on a mean of the best accounts,
is 15,673 English feet from the level of the sea, Teneriffe
12,150.]
[** Clipperton speaks of it as a fact, Harris’s Voyages, Vol.
I. p. 187. Mandelsloe pretended to have seen it, ibid. p. 806.
Baudrand was the first who by careful enquiry detected the
fiction. An account of this imaginary tree, curious from being so
circumstantial, is here given from a French book of geography, of
some credit in other respects. “Mais ce qu’il-y-a de plus digne
de remarque, est cet arbre merveilleux qui fournit d’eau toute
l’isle, tant pour les hommes que pour les bêtes. Cet arbre,
que les habitans appellent Caroë, Garoë, ou Arbre
Saint, unique en son espéce, est gros, et large de
branches; son tronc a environ douze pieds de tour; ses feuilles
sont un peu plus grosses que celles des noiers, et toujours
vertes; il porte un fruit, semblable à un gland, qui a un
noiau d’un goût aromatique, doux et piquant. Cet arbre est
perpétuellement convert d’un nuage, qui l’humecte partout,
en sorte que l’eau en distille goutte à goutte par les
branches et par les feuilles, en telle quantité qu’on en
peut emplir trente tonneaux par jour. Cette eau est
extrémement fraiche, claire, fort bonne a boire, et fort
saine. Elle tombe dans deux bassins de pierre que les insulaires
ont bâtis pour la recevoir. La nuage qui couvre cet arbre
ne se dissipe pas; settlement dans les grandes chaleurs de
l’été il se diminue un peu; mais en échange
la mer envoie une vapeur epaisse, qui se jette sur l’arbre, et
qui supplée a ce manquement.” Du Bois Geogr. Part. iii.
ch. 17. Can all this have arisen from Pliny’s arbores ex quibus
aquae exprimantur?]
[*** See Captain Glasse’s elaborate account of the Canaries,
and Captain Cook’s last Voyage.]
The capital of Teneriffe is Laguna, or more properly San
Christoval de la Laguna, St. Christopher of the Lake, so called
from its situation near a lake. Both this and Santa Cruz are
built of stone, but the appearance of the latter is more pleasing
than that of Laguna. They are distant from each other about four
miles. The capital of the Great Canary, and properly of the whole
government, is the City of Palms: But that place has been for
some time the centre of ecclesiastical government only. The
custom of reckoning the first meridian as passing through these
isles was begun by Ptolemy; and perhaps it is still to be wished
that the French regulations on that subject were generally
adopted.
9 June 1787.
Our ships were at length preparing to depart, when on the
evening of the 9th of June, a convict belonging to the Alexander,
having been employed on deck, found means to cut away the boat,
and make a temporary escape; but he was missed and soon retaken.
It is not probable that he had formed any definite plan of
escape; the means of absconding must have been accidentally
offered, and suddenly embraced; and for making such an attempt,
the vague hope of liberty, without any certain prospect, would
naturally afford sufficient temptation.
10 June 1787
By the 10th of June the ships had completed their water, and
early the next morning, the Governor gave the signal for weighing
anchor, and the fleet pursued its course.
Report of the marines and convicts under medical treatment,
given in to Governor Phillip, June 4th, 1787.
Charlotte, — Marines 4 Convicts 16 Alexander, — Marines 2
Convicts 26 Scarborough, — Marine 1 Convicts 9 Friendship, —
Convicts 13 Lady Penrhyn, Convicts 11 Prince of Wales, Marines 2
Convicts 7 — Total Marines 9 Convicts 72
Convicts dead since the first embarkation 21 Children of
convicts 3
Of these only fifteen, and one child, had died since the
departure from Spithead.
Chapter IV.
June 1787 to September 1787
Attempt to put in at Port Praya–Relinquished–Weather–Sail
for Rio de Faneiro–Reasons for touching at a South American
port–The Fleet passes the Line–Arrives at Rio de
Faneiro–Account of that Place–Transactions
there–Departure.
Vegetables not having been so plentiful at Santa Cruz as to
afford a sufficient supply, it was the intention of Governor
Phillip to anchor for about twenty-four hours in the Bay of Port
Praya. The islands on this side of the Atlantic, seem as if
expressly placed to facilitate the navigation to and from the
Cape of Good Hope: by offering to vessels, without any material
variation from their course, admirable stations for supply and
refreshment. About latitude 40, north, the Azores; in 33, the
Madeiras; between 29 and 27, the Canaries; and between 18 and 16,
the Islands of Cape Verd, successively offer themselves to the
voyager, affording abundantly every species of accommodation his
circumstances can require. On the Southern side of the Equator, a
good harbour and abundance of turtles give some consequence even
to the little barren island of Ascension; and St. Helena, by the
industry of the English settlers, has become the seat of plenty
and of elegance. Without the assistance derived, in going or
returning, from some of these places, the interval of near forty
degrees on each side of the line, in a sea exposed to violent
heat, and subject to tedious calms, would be sufficient to
discourage even the navigators of the eighteenth century.
18 June 1787
On the 18th of June, the fleet came in sight of the Cape Verd
Islands, and was directed by signal to steer for St. Jago. But
the want of favourable wind, and the opposition of a strong
current making it probable that all the ships would not be able
to get into the Bay, the Governor thought it best to change his
plan. The signal for anchoring was hauled down, and the ships
were directed to continue their first course; a circumstance of
much disappointment to many individuals on board, who, as is
natural in long voyages, were eager on every occasion to enjoy
the refreshments of the shore. As an additional incitement to
such wishes, the weather had now become hot; the thermometer
stood at 82°, which, though not an immoderate heat for a
tropical climate, is sufficient to produce considerable
annoyance. But, unmoved by any consideration except that of
expedience, Governor Phillip persisted in conducting his ships to
their next intended station, the harbour of Rio de Janeiro.
It may appear perhaps, on a slight consideration, rather
extraordinary, that vessels bound to the Cape of Good Hope should
find it expedient to touch at a harbour of South America. To run
across the Atlantic, and take as a part of their course, that
coast, the very existence of which was unknown to the first
navigators of these seas, seems a very circuitous method of
performing the voyage. A little examination will remove this
apparent difficulty. The calms so frequent on the African side,
are of themselves a sufficient cause to induce a navigator to
keep a very westerly course; and even the islands at which it is
so often convenient to touch will carry him within a few degrees
of the South American coast.–The returning tracks of Captain
Cooks’s three voyages all run within a very small space of the
45th degree of west longitude, which is even ten degrees further
to the west than the extremity of Cape St. Roque: and that course
appears to have been taken voluntarily, without any extraordinary
inducement. But in the latitudes to which Governor Phillip’s
squadron had now arrived, the old and new continent approach so
near to each other, that in avoiding the one it becomes necessary
to run within a very moderate distance of the opposite land.
In the passage from the Cape Verd Islands, the fleet suffered
for some time the inconvenience of great heat, attended by heavy
rains. The heat, however, did not at any time exceed the point
already specified,* and the precautions unremittingly observed in
all the ships happily continued efficacious in preventing any
violent sickness. Nor did the oppression of the hot weather
continue so long as in these latitudes might have been expected;
for before they reached the equator the temperature had become
much more moderate.
[* 82°, 51. It is not unusual in England, to have the
thermometer, for a day or two in a summer, at 81°.]
5 July 1787
On July 5, 1787, being then in long. 26° 10′ west from
Greenwich, the Botany Bay fleet passed from the Northern into the
Southern Hemisphere. About three weeks more of very favourable
and pleasant weather conveyed them to Rio de Janeiro.
5-6 August 1787
On the 5th of August they anchored off the harbour, and on the
evening of the 6th were at their station within it. The land of
Cape Frio had been discovered some days before, but a deficiency
of wind from that time a little slackened their course.
Rio de Janeiro, or January River, so called because discovered
by Dias de Solis on the feast of St. Januarius, (Sept. 19) 1525,
is not in fact a river, though its name denotes that it was then
supposed to be so: it is an arm of the sea, into which a
considerable number of small rivers descends.
The city of Rio de Janeiro, called by some writers St.
Sebastian, from the name of its tutelar patron, is situated on
the west side of this bay, within less than a degree of the
tropic of Capricorn, and about 43° west of Greenwich. It is
at present the capital of all Brasil, and has been for some time
the residence of the Viceroy. These distinctions it obtained in
preference to St. Salvador, which was formerly the capital, by
means of the diamond mines discovered in its vicinity, in the
year 1730. The place increasing rapidly by the wealth thus
brought to it, was fortified and put under the care of a governor
in 1738. The port is one of the finest in the world, very narrow
at the entrance, and within capacious enough to contain more
ships than ever were assembled at one station. It has soundings
from twenty to one hundred and twenty fathoms. A hill shaped like
a sugar loaf, situated on the west side, marks the proper bearing
for entering the harbour: the situation of which is fully pointed
out at the distance of two leagues and a half by some small
islands, one of which, called Rodonda, is very high, and in form
not unlike a haycock. The mouth of the harbour is defended by
forts, particularly two, called Santa Cruz and Lozia; and the
usual anchorage within it is before the city, north of a small
island named Dos Cobras.
There are in this port established fees, which are paid by all
merchant ships, Portuguese as well as strangers: 3l. 12s. each on
entering the bay, the same on going out, and 5s. 6d. a day while
they remain at anchor. The entrance fee was demanded for the
transports in this expedition, but when Governor Phillip had
alledged that they were loaded with King’s stores, the payment
was no more insisted upon. Nevertheless, the Captain of the Port
gave his attendance, with his boat’s crew, to assist the ships in
coming in, there being at that time only a light air, hardly
sufficient to carry them up the bay.
In the narrative of Captain Cook’s Voyage in 1768, we find, on
his arrival at this place, great appearance of suspicion on the
part of the Viceroy, harsh prohibitions of landing, even to the
gentlemen employed in philosophical researches, and some
proceedings rather of a violent nature. The reception given by
the present Viceroy to Governor Phillip and his officers was very
different: it was polite and flattering to a great degree, and
free from every tincture of jealous caution.
Don Lewis de Varconcellos, the reigning Viceroy, belongs to
one of the noblest families in Portugal; is brother to the
Marquis of Castello Methor, and to the Count of Pombeiro.
Governor Phillip, who served for some years as a Captain in the
Portuguese navy, and is deservedly much honoured by that nation,
was not personally unknown to the Viceroy, though known in a way
which, in a less liberal mind, might have produced very different
dispositions. There had been some difference between them, on a
public account, in this port, when Governor Phillip commanded the
Europe: each party had acted merely for the honour of the nation
to which he belonged, and the Viceroy, with the true spirit of a
man of honour, far from resenting a conduct so similar to his
own, seemed now to make it his object to obliterate every
recollection of offence. As soon as he was fully informed of the
nature of Governor Phillip’s commission, he gave it out in orders
to the garrison that the same honours should be paid to that
officer as to himself. This distinction the Governor modestly
wished to decline, but was not permitted. His officers were all
introduced to the Viceroy, and were, as well as himself, received
with every possible mark of attention to them, and regard for
their country. They were allowed to visit all parts of the city,
and even to make excursions as far as five miles into the
country, entirely unattended: an indulgence very unusual to
strangers, and considering what we read of the jealousy of the
Portuguese Government respecting its diamond mines, the more
extraordinary.
Provisions were here so cheap, that notwithstanding the
allowance of meat was fixed by Governor Phillip at twenty ounces
a day, the men were victualled completely, rice, fresh
vegetables, and firing included, at three-pence three-farthings a
head. Wine was not at this season to be had, except from the
retail dealers, less was therefore purchased than would otherwise
have been taken. Rum, however, was laid in; and all such seeds
and plants procured as were thought likely to flourish on the
coast of New South Wales, particularly coffee, indigo, cotton,
and the cochineal fig.* As a substitute for bread, if it should
become scarce, one hundred sacks of cassada were purchased at a
very advantageous price.
[* Cactus Cochinilifer, of Linnaeus.]
Cassada, the bread of thousands in the tropical climates,
affords one of those instances in which the ingenuity of man
might be said to triumph over the intentions of nature, were it
not evidently the design of Providence that we should in all ways
exert our invention and sagacity to the utmost, for our own
security and support. It is the root of a shrub called Cassada,
or Cassava Jatropha, and in its crude state is highly poisonous.
By washing, pressure, and evaporation, it is deprived of all its
noxious qualities, and being formed into cakes becomes a
salubrious and not an unpalatable substitute for bread.
By the indulgence of the Viceroy, the deficiency in the
military stores observed at the departure of the transports from
England, was made up by a supply purchased from the Royal
arsenal; nor was any assistance withheld which either the place
afforded, or the stores of government could furnish.
The circumstances, which in this place most astonish a
stranger, and particularly a Protestant, are, the great abundance
of images dispersed throughout the city, and the devotion paid to
them. They are placed at the corner of almost every street, and
are never passed without a respectful salutation; but at night
they are constantly surrounded by their respective votaries, who
offer up their prayers aloud, and make the air resound in all
quarters with the notes of their hymns. The strictness of manners
in the inhabitants is not said to be at all equivalent to the
warmth of this devotion; but in all countries and climates it is
found much easier to perform external acts of reputed piety, than
to acquire the internal habits so much more essential. It must be
owned, however, that our people did not find the ladies so
indulgent as some voyagers have represented them.
It was near a month before Governor Phillip could furnish his
ships with every thing which it was necessary they should now
procure. At length, on the 4th of September he weighed anchor,
and as he passed the fort, received from the Viceroy the last
compliment it was in his power to pay, being saluted with
twenty-one guns. The salute was returned by an equal number from
the Sirius; and thus ended an intercourse honourable to both
nations, and particularly to the principal officer employed in
the service of each.
Chapter V.
September 1787 to January 1788
Prospercus passage from Rio to the Cape–Account of the
Harbours there–The Cape of Good Hope not the most Southern
point–Height of Table Mountain and others–Supineness of the
European nations in neglecting to occupy the Cape–Live stock
laid in–Departure–Separation of the fleet–Arrival of the
Supply at Botany Bay.
4 September 1787
A Prosperous course by sea, like a state of profound peace and
tranquility in civil society, though most advantageous to those
who enjoy it, is unfavourable to the purposes of narration. The
striking facts which the writer exerts himself to record, and the
reader is eager to peruse, arise only from difficult situations:
uniform prosperity is described in very few words. Of this
acceptable but unproductive kind was the passage of the Botany
Bay fleet from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope; uniformly
favourable, and not marked by any extraordinary incidents. This
run, from about lat. 22° south, long. 43 west of London, to
lat. 34° south, long. 18° east of London, a distance of
about four thousand miles, was performed in thirty-nine days: for
having left Rio on the 4th of September, on the 13th of October
the ships came to anchor in Table Bay. Here they were to take
their final refreshment, and lay in every kind of stock with
which they were not already provided. In this period no
additional lives had been lost, except that of a single convict
belonging to the Charlotte transport, who fell accidentally into
the sea, and could not by any efforts be recovered.
13 October 1787
Table Bay, on the north-west side of the Cape of Good Hope, is
named from the Table Mountain, a promontory of considerable
elevation, at the foot of which, and almost in the centre of the
Bay, stands Cape Town, the principal Dutch settlement in this
territory. This Bay cannot properly be called a port, being by no
means a station of security; it is exposed to all the violence of
the winds which set into it from the sea; and is far from
sufficiently secured from those which blow from the land. The
gusts which descend from the summit of Table Mountain are
sufficient to force ships from their anchors, and even violently
to annoy persons on the shore, by destroying any tents or other
temporary edifices which may be erected, and raising clouds of
fine dust, which produce very troublesome effects. A gale of this
kind, from the south-east, blew for three days successively when
Capt. Cook lay here in his first voyage, at which time, he
informs us, the Resolution was the only ship in the harbour that
had not dragged her anchors. The storms from the sea are still
more formidable; so much so, that ships have frequently been
driven by them from their anchorage, and wrecked at the head of
the Bay. But these accidents happen chiefly in the quaade
mousson, or winter months, from May 14 to the same day of August;
during which time few ships venture to anchor here. Our fleet,
arriving later, lay perfectly unmolested as long as it was
necessary for it to remain in this station.
False Bay, on the south-east side of the Cape, is more secure
than Table Bay, during the prevalence of the north-west winds,
but still less so in strong gales from the south-east. It is
however less frequented, being twenty-four miles of very heavy
road distant from Cape Town, whence almost all necessaries must
be procured. The most sheltered part of False Bay is a recess on
the west side, called Simon’s Bay.
The Cape of Good Hope, though popularly called, and perhaps
pretty generally esteemed so, is not in truth the most southern
point of Africa. The land which projects furthest to the south is
a point to the east of it, called by the English Cape Lagullus; a
name corrupted from the original Portugueze das Agulhas, which,
as well as the French appellation des Aiguilles, is descriptive
of its form, and would rightly be translated Needle Cape. Three
eminences, divided by very narrow passes, and appearing in a
distant view like three summits of the same mountain, stand at
the head of Table Bay.–They are however of different heights, by
which difference, as well as by that of their shape, they may be
distinguished. Table Mountain is so called from its appearance,
as it terminates in a flat horizontal surface, from which the
face of the rock descends almost perpendicularly. This mountain
rises to about 3567 feet above the level of the sea. Devil’s
Head, called also Charles mountain, is situated to the east of
the former, and is not above 3368 feet in height; and on the west
side of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, whose name is also meant to
be descriptive, does not exceed 2764 feet. In the neighbourhood
of the latter lies Constantia, a district consisting of two
farms, wherein the famous wines of that name are produced.
Our voyagers found provisions less plentiful and less
reasonable in price at Cape Town than they had been taught to
expect. Board and lodging, which are to be had only in private
houses, stood the officers in two rix-dollars a day, which is
near nine shillings sterling. This town, the only place in the
whole colony to which that title can be applied with propriety,
is of no great extent; it does not in any part exceed two miles:
and the country, colonized here by the Dutch, is in general so
unfavourable to cultivation, that it is not without some
astonishment that we find them able to raise provisions from it
in sufficient abundance to supply themselves, and the ships of so
many nations which constantly resort to the Cape.
When we consider the vast advantages derived by the Dutch
colonists from this traffic, and the almost indispensible
necessity by which navigators of all nations are driven to seek
refreshment there, it cannot but appear extraordinary, that from
the discovery of the Cape in 1493, by Barthelemi Diaz, to the
year 1650, when, at the suggestion of John Van Riebeck, the first
Dutch colony was sent, a spot so very favourable to commerce and
navigation should have remained unoccupied by Europeans. Perhaps
all the perseverance of the Dutch character was necessary even to
suggest the idea of maintaining an establishment in a soil so
burnt by the sun, and so little disposed to repay the toil of the
cultivator. The example and success of this people may serve,
however, as an useful instruction to all who in great
undertakings are deterred by trifling obstacles; and who, rather
than contend with difficulties, are inclined to relinquish the
most evident advantages.
But though the country near the Cape had not charms enough to
render it as pleasing as that which surrounds Rio de Janeiro, yet
the Governor, Mynheer Van Graaffe, was not far behind the Viceroy
of Brazil in attention to the English officers. They were
admitted to his table, where they were elegantly entertained, and
had reason to be pleased in all respects with his behaviour and
disposition. Yet the minds of his people were not at this time in
a tranquil state; the accounts from Holland were such as
occasioned much uneasiness, and great preparations were making at
the fort, from apprehension of a rupture with some other
power.
In the course of a month, the live stock and other provisions
were procured; and the ships, having on board not less than five
hundred animals of different kinds, but chiefly poultry, put on
an appearance which naturally enough excited the idea of Noah’s
ark. This supply, considering that the country had previously
suffered from a dearth, was very considerable; but it was
purchased of course at a higher expence considerably than it
would have been in a time of greater plenty.
12 November 1787
On the 12th of November the fleet set sail, and was for many
days much delayed by strong winds from the south-east.
25 November 1787
On the 25th, being then only 80 leagues to the eastward of the
Cape, Governor Phillip left the Sirius and went on board the
Supply tender; in hopes, by leaving the convoy, to gain
sufficient time for examining the country round Botany Bay, so as
to fix on the situation most eligible for the colony, before the
transports should arrive. At the same time he ordered the agents
for the transports, who were in the Alexander, to separate
themselves from the convoy with that ship, the Scarborough and
Friendship, which, as they were better sailors than the rest,
might reasonably be expected sooner: in which case, by the labour
of the convicts they had on board, much might be done in making
the necessary preparations for landing the provisions and
stores.
Major Ross, the Commandant of Marines, now left the Sirius,
and went on board the Scarborough, that he might accompany that
part of the detachment which probably would be landed first.
Captain Hunter, in the Sirius, was to follow with the
store-ships, and the remainder of the transports; and he had the
necessary instructions for his future proceedings, in case the
Supply had met with any accident. Lieutenant Gidley King, since
appointed Commandant of Norfolk Island, accompanied Governor
Phillip in the Supply.
3 January 1788
From this time to the 3d of January, 1788, the winds were as
favourable as could be wished, blowing generally in very strong
gales from the north-west, west, and south-west. Once only the
wind had shifted to the east, but continued in that direction not
more than a few hours. Thus assisted, the Supply, which sailed
but very indifferently, and turned out, from what she had
suffered in the voyage, to be hardly a safe conveyance, performed
in fifty-one days a voyage of more than seven thousand miles. On
the day abovementioned she was within sight of the coast of New
South Wales. But the winds then became variable, and a current,
which at times set very strongly to the southward, so much
impeded her course, that it was not till the 18th that she
arrived at Botany Bay.
Chapter VI.
January 1788
First interview with the natives–the bay examined–arrival of
the whole fleet–Port Jackson examined–second interview with the
natives–and third–Governor Phillip returns to Botany Bay–and
gives orders for the evacuation of it.
18 January 1788
At the very first landing of Governor Phillip on the shore of
Botany Bay, an interview with the natives took place. They were
all armed, but on seeing the Governor approach with signs of
friendship, alone and unarmed, they readily returned his
confidence by laying down their weapons. They were perfectly
devoid of cloathing, yet seemed fond of ornaments, putting the
beads and red baize that were given them, on their heads or
necks, and appearing pleased to wear them. The presents offered
by their new visitors were all readily accepted, nor did any kind
of disagreement arise while the ships remained in Botany Bay.
This very pleasing effect was produced in no small degree by the
personal address, as well as by the great care and attention of
the Governor. Nor were the orders which enforced a conduct so
humane, more honourable to the persons from whom they originated,
than the punctual execution of them was to the officers sent out:
it was evident that their wishes coincided with their duty; and
that a sanguinary temper was no longer to disgrace the European
settlers in countries newly discovered.
The next care after landing was the examination of the bay
itself, from which it appeared that, though extensive, it did not
afford a shelter from the easterly winds: and that, in
consequence of its shallowness, ships even of a moderate draught,
would always be obliged to anchor with the entrance of the bay
open, where they must be exposed to a heavy sea, that rolls in
whenever it blows hard from the eastward.
Several runs of fresh water were found in different parts of
the bay, but there did not appear to be any situation to which
there was not some very strong objection. In the northern part of
it is a small creek, which runs a considerable way into the
country, but it has water only for a boat, the sides of it are
frequently overflowed, and the low lands near it are a perfect
swamp. The western branch of the bay is continued to a great
extent, but the officers sent to examine it could not find there
any supply of fresh water, except in very small drains.
Point Sutherland offered the most eligible situation, having a
run of good water, though not in very great abundance. But to
this part of the harbour the ships could not approach, and the
ground near it, even in the higher parts, was in general damp and
spungy. Smaller numbers might indeed in several spots have found
a comfortable residence, but no place was found in the whole
circuit of Botany Bay which seemed at all calculated for the
reception of so large a settlement. While this examination was
carried on, the whole fleet had arrived. The Supply had not so
much outsailed the other ships as to give Governor Phillip the
advantage he had expected in point of time. On the 19th of
January, the Alexander, Scarborough, and Friendship, cast anchor
in Botany Bay; and on the 20th, the Sirius, with the remainder of
the convoy*. These ships had all continued very healthy; they had
not, however, yet arrived at their final station.
[* The annexed view of Botany Bay, represents the Supply, etc.
at anchor, and the Sirius with her convoy coming into the
bay.]
The openness of this bay, and the dampness of the soil, by
which the people would probably be rendered unhealthy, had
already determined the Governor to seek another situation. He
resolved, therefore, to examine Port Jackson, a bay mentioned by
Captain Cook as immediately to the north of this. There he hoped
to find, not only a better harbour, but a fitter place for the
establishment of his new government. But that no time might be
lost, in case of a disappointment in these particulars, the
ground near Point Sutherland was ordered immediately to be
cleared, and preparations to be made for landing, under the
direction of the Lieutenant Governor.
These arrangements having been settled, Governor Phillip
prepared to proceed to the examination of Port Jackson: and as
the time of his absence, had he gone in the Supply, must have
been very uncertain, he went round with three boats; taking with
him Captain Hunter and several other officers, that by examining
several parts of the harbour at once the greater dispatch might
be made.
22d January, 1788.
On the 22d of January they set out upon this expedition, and
early in the afternoon arrived at Port Jackson, which is distant
about three leagues. Here all regret arising from the former
disappointments was at once obliterated; and Governor Phillip had
the satisfaction to find one of the finest harbours in the world,
in which a thousand sail of the line might ride in perfect
security.
The different coves of this harbour were examined with all
possible expedition, and the preference was given to one which
had the finest spring of water, and in which ships can anchor so
close to the shore, that at a very small expence quays may be
constructed at which the largest vessels may unload. This cove is
about half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile across at
the entrance. In honour of Lord Sydney, the Governor
distinguished it by the name of Sydney Cove.
On the arrival of the boats at Port Jackson, a second party of
the natives made its appearance near the place of landing. These
also were armed with lances, and at first were very vociferous;
but the same gentle means used towards the others easily
persuaded these also to discard their suspicions, and to accept
whatsoever was offered. One man in particular, who appeared to be
the chief of this tribe, shewed very singular marks both of
confidence in his new friends, and of determined resolution.
Under the guidance of Governor Phillip, to whom he voluntarily
intrusted himself, he went to a part of the beach where the men
belonging to the boats were then boiling their meat: when he
approached the marines, who were drawn up near that place, and
saw that by proceeding he should be separated from his
companions, who remained with several of the officers at some
distance, he stopped, and with great firmness, seemed by words
and gestures to threaten revenge if any advantage should be taken
of his situation. He then went on with perfect calmness to
examine what was boiling in the pot, and by the manner in which
he expressed his admiration, made it evident that he intended to
profit by what he saw. Governor Phillip contrived to make him
understand that large shells might conveniently be used for the
same purpose, and it is probable that by these hints, added to
his own observation, he will be enabled to introduce the art of
boiling among his countrymen. Hitherto they appear to have known
no other way of dressing food than broiling. Their methods of
kindling fire are probably very imperfect and laborious, for it
is observed that they usually keep it burning, and are very
rarely seen without either a fire actually made, or a piece of
lighted wood, which they carry with them from place to place, and
even in their canoes.* The perpetual fires, which in some
countries formed a part of the national religion, had perhaps no
other origin than a similar inability to produce it at pleasure;
and if we suppose the original flame to have been kindled by
lightning, the fiction of its coming down from heaven will be
found to deviate very little from the truth.
[* In Hawksw. Voy. vol. iii. p. 234, it is said that they
produce fire with great facility, etc. which account is the more
correct, time will probably show.]
In passing near a point of land in this harbour, the boats
were perceived by a number of the natives, twenty of whom waded
into the water unarmed, received what was offered them, and
examined the boat with a curiosity which impressed a higher idea
of them than any former accounts of their manners had suggested.
This confidence, and manly behaviour, induced Governor Phillip,
who was highly pleased with it, to give the place the name of
Manly Cove. The same people afterwards joined the party at the
place where they had landed to dine. They were then armed, two of
them with shields and swords, the rest with lances only. The
swords were made of wood, small in the gripe, and apparently less
formidable than a good stick. One of these men had a kind of
white clay rubbed upon the upper part of his face, so as to have
the appearance of a mask. This ornament, if it can be called
such, is not common among them, and is probably assumed only on
particular occasions, or as a distinction to a few individuals.
One woman had been seen on the rocks as the boats passed, with
her face, neck and breasts thus painted, and to our people
appeared the most disgusting figure imaginable; her own
countrymen were perhaps delighted by the beauty of the
effect.
During the preparation for dinner the curiosity of these
visitors rendered them very troublesome, but an innocent
contrivance altogether removed the inconvenience. Governor
Phillip drew a circle round the place where the English were, and
without much difficulty made the natives understand that they
were not to pass that line; after which they sat down in perfect
quietness. Another proof how tractable these people are, when no
insult or injury is offered, and when proper means are to
influence the simplicity of their minds.
24 January 1788
January 24th, 1788. On the 24th of January, Governor Phillip
having sufficiently explored Port Jackson, and found it in all
respects highly calculated to receive such a settlement as he was
appointed to establish, returned to Botany Bay. On his arrival
there, the reports made to him, both of the ground which the
people were clearing, and of the upper parts of the Bay, which in
this interval had been more particularly examined, were in the
greatest degree unfavourable. It was impossible after this to
hesitate concerning the choice of a situation; and orders were
accordingly issued for the removal of the whole fleet to Port
Jackson.
That Botany Bay should have appeared to Captain Cook in a more
advantageous light than to Governor Phillip, is not by any means
extraordinary. Their objects were very different; the one
required only shelter and refreshment for a small vessel, and
during but a short time: the other had great numbers to provide
for, and was necessitated to find a place wherein ships of very
considerable burthen might approach the shore with ease, and lie
at all times in perfect security. The appearance of the place is
picturesque and pleasing, and the ample harvest it afforded, of
botanical acquisitions, made it interesting to the philosophical
gentlemen engaged in that expedition; but something more
essential than beauty of appearance, and more necessary than
philosophical riches, must be sought in a place where the
permanent residence of multitudes is to be established.
Chapter VII.
January 1788
Removal from Botany Bay–Arrival of two French ships–Account
of them–Preparations for encampment–Difficulties–Scurvy breaks
out–Account of the red and yellow gum trees.
24 January 1788
Preparations for a general removal were now made with all
convenient expedition: but on the morning of the 24th the
greatest astonishment was spread throughout the fleet by the
appearance of two ships, under French colours. In this remote
region visitors from Europe were very little expected, and their
arrival, while the cause of it remained unknown, produced in some
minds a temporary apprehension, accompanied by a multiplicity of
conjectures, many of them sufficiently ridiculous. Governor
Phillip was the first to recollect that two ships had been sent
out some time before from France for the purpose of discovery,
and rightly concluded these to be the same. But as the opposition
of the wind, and a strong current prevented them at present from
working into the harbour, and even drove them out of sight again
to the south, he did not think proper to delay his departure for
the sake of making further enquiry.
25 January 1788
On the 25th of January therefore, seven days after the arrival
of the Supply, Governor Phillip quitted Botany Bay in the same
ship, and sailed to Port Jackson. The rest of the fleet, under
convoy of the Sirius, was ordered to follow, as soon as the
abatement of the wind, which then blew a strong gale, should
facilitate its working out of the Bay. The Supply was scarcely
out of sight when the French ships again appeared off the mouth
of the harbour, and a boat was immediately sent to them, with
offers of every kind of information and assistance their
situation could require. It was now learnt that these were, as
the Governor had supposed, the Boussole and the Astrolabe, on a
voyage of discovery, under the conduct of Monsieur La
Perouse.
26 January 1788
On the 26th, the transports and store ships, attended by the
Sirius, finally evacuated Botany Bay; and in a very short time
they were all assembled in Sydney Cove, the place now destined
for their port, and for the reception of the new settlement. The
French ships had come to anchor in Botany Bay just before the
departure of the Sirius; and during the intercourse which then
took place, M. la Perouse had expressed a strong desire of having
some letters conveyed to Europe. Governor Phillip was no sooner
informed of this, than he dispatched an officer to him with full
information of the time when it was probable our ships would
sail, and with assurances that his letters should be punctually
transmitted. By this officer the following intelligence was
brought back concerning the voyage of the Astrolabe and
Boussole.
These vessels had sailed from France in June 1785. They had
touched at the Isle of Santa Catharina on the coast of Brasil,
from thence had gone by the extremity of South America into the
Pacific Ocean, where they had run along by the coasts of Chili
and California. They had afterwards visited Easter Island, Nootka
Sound, Cook’s River, Kamschatka, Manilla, the Isles des
Navigateurs, Sandwich and the Friendly Islands. M. la Perouse had
also anchored off Norfolk Island, but could not land, on account
of the surf. In this long voyage he had not lost any of his
people by sickness; but two boats crews had unfortunately
perished in a surf on the north-west coast of America; and at
Masuna, one of the Isles des Navigateurs, M. L’Angle, Captain of
the Astrolabe, had met with a fate still more unfortunate. That
officer had gone ashore with two long boats for the purpose of
filling some water casks. His party amounted to forty men, and
the natives, from whom the French had received abundance of
refreshments, and with whom they had been uniformly on the best
terms, did not on their landing show any signs of a change of
disposition. Malice unprovoked, and treachery without a motive,
seem inconsistent even with the manners of savages; the French
officers therefore, confiding in this unbroken state of amity,
had suffered their boats to lie aground. But whether it were that
the friendly behaviour of the natives had proceeded only from
fear, or that some unknown offence had been given, they seized
the moment when the men were busied in getting out the boats, to
make an attack equally furious and unexpected. The assault was
made with stones, of which prodigious numbers were thrown with
extraordinary force and accuracy of direction. To this treachery
M. L’Angle fell a sacrifice, and with him twelve of his party,
officers and men, the long-boats were destroyed, and the
remainder of those who had gone ashore escaped with difficulty in
their small boats. The ships in the mean time were under sail,
and having passed a point of land that intercepted the view, knew
nothing of this melancholy and unaccountable affray till the
boats returned. This fatal result from too implicit a confidence,
may, perhaps very properly, increase the caution of Europeans in
their commerce with savages, but ought not to excite suspicion.
The resentments of such people are sudden and sanguinary, and,
where the intercourse of language is wanting, may easily be
awakened by misapprehension: but it seems possible to treat them
with sufficient marks of confidence, without abandoning the
guards of prudence. Offence is often given by the men, while the
officers are most studious to preserve harmony, and against the
transports of rage which arise on such occasions, it is always
necessary to be prepared. Perhaps, also, a degree of awe should
always be kept up, even to preserve their friendship. It has been
uniformly remarked by our people, that defenceless stragglers are
generally ill-treated by the natives of New South Wales, while
towards parties armed and on their guard, they behave in the most
amicable manner.
The debarkation was now made at Sydney Cove, and the work of
clearing the ground for the encampment, as well as for the
storehouses and other buildings, was begun without loss of time.
But the labour which attended this necessary operation was
greater than can easily be imagined by those who were not
spectators of it. The coast, as well as the neighbouring country
in general, is covered with wood; and though in this spot the
trees stood more apart, and were less incumbered with underwood
than in many other places, yet their magnitude was such as to
render not only the felling, but the removal of them afterwards,
a task of no small difficulty. By the habitual indolence of the
convicts, and the want of proper overseers to keep them to their
duty, their labour was rendered less efficient than it might have
been.
26 January 1788
In the evening of the 26th the colours were displayed on
shore, and the Governor, with several of his principal officers
and others, assembled round the flag-staff, drank the king’s
health, and success to the settlement, with all that display of
form which on such occasions is esteemed propitious, because it
enlivens the spirits, and fills the imagination with pleasing
presages. From this time to the end of the first week in February
all was hurry and exertion. They who gave orders and they who
received them were equally occupied; nor is it easy to conceive a
busier scene than this part of the coast exhibited during the
continuance of these first efforts towards establishment. The
plan of the encampment was quickly formed, and places were marked
out for every different purpose, so as to introduce, as much as
possible, strict order and regularity. The materials and frame
work to construct a slight temporary habitation for the Governor,
had been brought out from England ready formed: these were landed
and put together with as much expedition as the circumstances
would allow. Hospital tents were also without delay erected, for
which there was soon but too much occasion. In the passage from
the Cape there had been but little sickness, nor had many died
even among the convicts; but soon after landing, a dysentery
prevailed, which in several instances proved fatal, and the
scurvy began to rage with a virulence which kept the hospital
tents generally supplied with patients. For those afflicted with
this disorder, the advantage of fish or other fresh provisions
could but rarely be procured; nor were esculent vegetables often
obtained in sufficient plenty to produce any material alleviation
of the complaint. In the dysentery, the red gum of the tree which
principally abounds on this coast, was found a very powerful
remedy. The yellow gum has been discovered to possess the same
property, but in an inferior degree.
The tree which yields the former kind of gum is very
considerable in size, and grows to a great height before it puts
out any branches. The red gum is usually compared to that called
sanguis draconis, but differs from it by being perfectly soluble
in water, whereas the other, being more properly a resin, will
not dissolve except in spirits of wine. It may be drawn from the
tree by tapping, or taken out of the veins of the wood when dry,
in which it is copiously distributed. The leaves are long and
narrow, not unlike those of a willow. The wood is heavy and fine
grained, but being much intersected by the channels containing
the gum, splits and warps in such a manner as soon to become
entirely useless; especially when worked up, as necessity at
first occasioned it to be, without having been properly
seasoned.
The yellow gum as it is called, is strictly a resin, not being
at all soluble in water; in appearance it strongly resembles
gamboge, but has not the property of staining. The plant that
produces it is low and small, with long grassy leaves; but the
fructification of it shoots out in a singular manner from the
centre of the leaves, on a single straight stem, to the height of
twelve or fourteen feet. Of this stem, which is strong and light,
like some of the reed class, the natives usually make their
spears; sometimes pointing them with a piece of the same
substance made sharp, but more frequently with bone. The resin is
generally dug up out of the soil under the tree, not collected
from it, and may perhaps be that which Tasman calls “gum lac of
the ground.” The form of this plant is very exactly delineated in
the annexed plate, and its proportion to other trees may be
collected from the plate, entitled, A View in New South Wales, in
which many of this species are introduced.
The month of February was ushered in by a very violent storm
of thunder and rain. The lightning struck and shivered a tree,
under which a shed had been erected for some sheep, and five of
those animals were at the same time unfortunately destroyed by
it. The encampment still went on with great alacrity, so that in
the beginning of this month the work of building public
storehouses was undertaken; and unremitting diligence began,
though very gradually, to triumph over the obstacles which the
nature of the place presented.
Chapter VIII.
February 1788
Description of Port Jackson and the adjacent country–The
Governor’s commission read–his Speech–his humane resolutions
respecting the Natives–difficulties in erecting huts and other
buildings–departure of Lieutenant King to Norfolk Island. A View
in Port Jackson.
Port Jackson was not visited or explored by Captain Cook; it
was seen only at the distance of between two or three miles from
the coast: had any good fortune conducted him into that harbour,
he would have found it much more worthy of his attention as a
seaman, than that in which he passed a week. Governor Phillip
himself pronounces it to be a harbour, in extent and security,
superior to any he has ever seen: and the most experienced
navigators who were with him fully concur in that opinion. From
an entrance not more than two miles across, Port Jackson
gradually extends into a noble and capacious bason; having
soundings sufficient for the largest vessels, and space to
accommodate, in perfect security, any number that could be
assembled. It runs chiefly in a western direction, about thirteen
miles into the country, and contains not less than an hundred
small coves, formed by narrow necks of land, whose projections
afford admirable shelter from all winds. Sydney Cove lies on the
South side of the harbour, between five and six miles from the
entrance. The necks of land that form the coves are mostly
covered with timber, yet so rocky that it is not easy to
comprehend how the trees could have found sufficient nourishment
to bring them to so considerable a magnitude; but the soil
between the rocks is very good, and into those spaces the
principal roots have found their way. The soil in other parts of
the coast immediately about Port Jackson is of various qualities.
That neck of land which divides the south end of the harbour from
the sea is chiefly sand. Between Sydney Cove and Botany Bay the
first space is occupied by a wood, in some parts a mile and a
half, in others three miles across; beyond that, is a kind of
heath, poor, sandy, and full of swamps. As far as the eye can
reach to the westward, the country is one continued wood. The
head of the bay in Port Jackson, seemed at first to offer some
advantages of ground, but as it is partly left dry at low water,
and as the winds are much obstructed there by the woods and by
the windings of the channel, it was deemed that it must probably
be unhealthful, till the country can be cleared.
There are several parts of the harbour in which the trees
stand at a greater distance from each other than in Sydney Cove;
some of these which have small runs of water, and a promising
soil, Governor Phillip purposed to cultivate as soon as hands
could be spared; but the advantage of being able to land the
stores and provisions with so much ease, unavoidably determined
his choice of a place for the principal settlement. Had it been
attempted to remove those necessaries only one mile from the spot
where they were landed, the undertaking probably would have been
fruitless; so many were the obstacles to land carriage. At the
head of Sydney Cove, therefore, Governor Phillip had fixed the
seat of his government; but intent upon providing the best and
earliest accommodation for those who were to be encamped with
him; and wholly occupied by the continual necessity of giving
directions, he had not yet found leisure for assuming regularly
his powers and title of Governor. At length the hurry of the
first preparations gave way to this more tranquil business.
7 February 1788
The 7th of February, 1788, was the memorable day which
established a regular form of Government on the coast of New
South Wales. For obvious reasons, all possible solemnity was
given to the proceedings necessary on this occasion. On a space
previously cleared, the whole colony was assembled; the military
drawn up, and under arms; the convicts stationed apart; and near
the person of the Governor, those who were to hold the principal
offices under him. The Royal Commission was then read by Mr. D.
Collins, the Judge Advocate. By this instrument Arthur Phillip
was constituted and appointed Captain General and Governor in
Chief in and over the territory, called New South Wales;
extending from the northern cape, or extremity of the coast,
called Cape York, in the latitude of ten degrees, thirty-seven
minutes south, to the southern extremity of the said territory of
New South Wales, or South Cape, in the latitude of forty-three
degrees, thirty-nine minutes south, and of all the country inland
to the westward, as far as the one hundred and thirty-fifth
degree of east longitude, reckoning from the meridian of
Greenwich, including all the islands adjacent in the Pacific
Ocean, within the latitudes aforesaid of 10°. 37′. south, and
43°. 39′. south, and of all towns, garrisons, castles, forts,
and all other fortifications, or other military works which may
be hereafter erected upon the said territory, or any of the said
islands. The act of Parliament establishing the courts of
judicature was next read; and lastly, the patents under the great
seal, empowering the proper persons to convene and hold those
courts whenever the exigency should require. The Office of
Lieutenant Governor was conferred on Major Ross, of the Marines.
A triple discharge of musquetry concluded this part of the
ceremony; after which Governor Phillip advanced, and addressing
first the private soldiers, thanked them for their steady good
conduct on every occasion: an honour which was repeated to them
in the next general orders. He then turned to the convicts, and
distinctly explained to them the nature of their present
situation. The greater part, he bade them recollect, had already
forfeited their lives to the justice of their country: yet, by
the lenity of its laws, they were now so placed that, by industry
and good behaviour, they might in time regain the advantages and
estimation in society of which they had deprived themselves. They
not only had every encouragement to make that effort, but were
removed almost entirely from every temptation to guilt. There was
little in this infant community which one man could plunder from
another, and any dishonest attempts in so small a society would
almost infallibly be discovered. To persons detected in such
crimes, he could not promise any mercy; nor indeed to any whom,
under their circumstances, should presume to offend against the
peace and good order of the settlement. What mercy could do for
them they had already experienced; nor could any good be now
expected from those whom neither past warnings, nor the
peculiarities of their present situation could preserve from
guilt. Against offenders, therefore, the rigour of the law would
certainly be put in force: while they whose behaviour should in
any degree promise reformation, might always depend upon
encouragement fully proportioned to their deserts. He
particularly noticed the illegal intercourse between the sexes as
an offence which encouraged a general profligacy of manners, and
was in several ways injurious to society. To prevent this, he
strongly recommended marriage, and promised every kind of
countenance and assistance to those who, by entering into that
state, should manifest their willingness to conform to the laws
of morality and religion. Governor Phillip concluded his address,
by declaring his earnest desire to promote the happiness of all
who were under his government, and to render the settlement in
New South Wales advantageous and honourabe to his country.
This speech, which was received with universal acclamations,
terminated the ceremonial peculiar to the day. Nor was it
altogether without its proper effect: For we are informed, that
in the course of the ensuing week fourteen marriages took place
among the convicts. The assembly was now dispersed, and the
Governor proceeded to review the troops on the ground cleared for
a parade: after which, he gave a dinner to the officers, and the
first evening of his government was concluded propitiously, in
good order and innocent festivity, amidst the repetition of
wishes for its prosperity.
A rising government could not easily be committed to better
hands. Governor Phillip appears to have every requisite to ensure
the success of the undertaking intrusted to him, as far as the
qualities of one man can ensure it. Intelligent, active,
persevering with firmness to make his authority respected, and
mildness to render it pleasing, he was determined, if possible,
to bring even the native inhabitants of New South Wales into a
voluntary subjection; or at least to establish with them a strict
amity and alliance. Induced also by motives of humanity, it was
his determination from his first landing, to treat them with the
utmost kindness: and he was firmly resolved, that, whatever
differences might arise, nothing less than the most absolute
necessity should ever compel him to fire upon them. In this
resolution, by good fortune, and by his own great address, he has
happily been enabled to persevere. But notwithstanding this, his
intentions of establishing a friendly intercourse have hitherto
been frustrated. M. De la Peyrouse,* while he remained in Botany
Bay, had some quarrel with the inhabitants, which unfortunately
obliged him to use his fire-arms against them: this affair,
joined to the ill behaviour of some of the convicts, who in spite
of all prohibitions, and at the risque of all consequences, have
wandered out among them, has produced a shyness on their parts
which it has not yet been possible to remove, though the
properest means have been taken to regain their confidence. Their
dislike to the Europeans is probably increased by discovering
that they intend to remain among them, and that they interfere
with them in some of their best fishing places, which doubtless
are, in their circumstances, objects of very great importance.
Some of the convicts who have straggled into the woods have been
killed, and others dangerously wounded by the natives, but there
is great reason to suppose that in these cases the convicts have
usually been the aggressors.
[* This is the right form of that officer’s name; it was
printed otherwise in a former passage by mistake.]
As the month of February advanced heavy rains began to fall,
which pointed out the necessity of procuring shelter for the
people as soon as possible. To have expedited this work in the
degree which was desirable a great number of artificers would
have been required. But this advantage could not be had. Only
sixteen carpenters could be hired from all the ships; among the
convicts no more than twelve were of this profession, and of them
several were sick. These therefore together formed but a small
party, in proportion to the work which was to be done. One
hundred convicts were added as labourers; but with every effort,
it was found impossible to complete either the barracks for the
men, or the huts for the officers, as soon as was desired. As
late as the middle of May these were yet unfinished, as well as
the hospital, and the storehouse for those provisions which were
not landed at first. The Governor himself at that time was still
lodged in his temporary house of canvas, which was not perfectly
impervious either to wind or weather.
14 February 1788.
On the 14th of February a party was sent out in the Supply, to
settle on a small island to the north-west of New Zealand, in
latitude 29° south, and longitude 168°. 10′. east from
London, which was discovered and much commended by Captain Cook,
and by him named Norfolk Island, in honour of the noble family to
which that title belongs. To the office of superintendant and
commandant of this island, and the settlement to be made upon it,
Governor Phillip appointed Philip Gidley King, second lieutenant
of his Majesty’s ship Sirius, an officer much esteemed by him as
of great merit in his profession; and highly spoken of in his
letters as a man, whose perseverance in that or any other service
might fully be depended on. As it was known that there were no
inhabitants on Norfolk Island, there was sent with Lieut. King
only a small detachment, consisting of one subaltern officer, and
six marines, a very promising young man who was a midshipman, a
surgeon,* two men who understood the cultivation and dressing of
flax, with nine men and six women convicts. That the nature of
this settlement may be fully understood, a copy of the
instructions delivered to Mr. King at his departure is subjoined
to this chapter.
[* The surgeon’s name is Jamison, whose intelligent letters to
Lewis Wolfe, Esq; were kindly lent to the publisher, and have
afforded much useful information.]
INSTRUCTIONS for PHILIP GIDLEY KING, Esq; Superintendant and
Commandant of the Settlement of NORFOLK ISLAND.
With these instructions you will receive my Commission,
appointing you to superintend and command the settlement to be
formed in Norfolk Island, and to obey all such orders as you
shall from time to time receive from me, his Majesty’s Governor
in Chief, and Captain General of the territory of New South Wales
and its dependencies, or from the Lieutenant-Governor in my
absence.
You are therefore to proceed in his Majesty’s armed tender
Supply, whose commander has my orders to receive you, with the
men and women, stores and provisions necessary for forming the
intended settlement; and on your landing on Norfolk Island you
are to take upon you the execution of the trust reposed in you,
causing my commission, appointing you superintendant over the
said settlement, to be publicly read.
After having taken the necessary measures for securing
yourself and people, and for the preservation of the stores and
provisions, you are immediately to proceed to the cultivation of
the Flax Plant, which you will find growing spontaneously on the
island: as likewise to the cultivation of cotton, corn, and other
plants, with the seeds of which you are furnished, and which you
are to regard as public stock, and of the increase of which you
are to send me an account, that I may know what quantity may be
drawn from the island for public use, or what supplies it may be
necessary to send hereafter. It is left to your discretion to use
such part of the corn that is raised as may be found necessary;
but this you are to do with the greatest oeconomy; and as the
corn, flax, cotton, and other grains are the property of the
Crown, and as such are to be accounted for, you are to keep an
exact account of the increase, and you will in future receive
directions for the disposal thereof.
You are to inform yourself of the nature of the soil, what
proportion of land you find proper for the cultivation of corn,
flax, and cotton, as likewise what quantity of cattle may be bred
on the island, and the number of people you judge necessary for
the above purpose. You will likewise observe what are the
prevailing winds in the different seasons of the year, the best
anchorage according to the season, the rise and fall of the
tides, likewise when the dry and rainy seasons begin and end.
You will be furnished with a four oared boat, and you are not
on any consideration to build, or to permit the building of any
vessel or boat whatever that is decked; or of any boat or vessel
that is not decked, whose length of keel exceeds twenty feet: and
if by any accident any vessel or boat that exceeds twenty feet
keel should be driven on the island, you are immediately to cause
such boat or vessel to be scuttled, or otherwise rendered
unserviceable, letting her remain in that situation until you
receive further directions from me.
You will be furnished with six months provisions, within which
time you will receive an additional supply, but as you will be
able to procure fish and vegetables, you are to endeavour to make
the provisions you receive serve as long as possible.
The convicts being the servants of the Crown, till the time
for which they are sentenced is expired, their labour is to be
for the public; and you are to take particular notice of their
general good or bad behaviour, that they may hereafter be
employed or rewarded according to their different merits.
You are to cause the Prayers of the Church of England to be
read with all due solemnity every Sunday, and you are to inforce
a due observance of religion and good order, transmitting to me,
as often as opportunity offers, a full account of your particular
situation and transactions.
You are not to permit any intercourse or trade with any ships
or vessels that may stop at the island, whether English or of any
other nation, unless such ships or vessels should be in distress,
in which case you are to afford them such assistance as may be in
your power.
Given under my hand, at Head Quarters in Port Jackson, New
South Wales, this 12th day of February, 1788.
(Signed)
ARTHUR PHILLIP.
Chapter IX.
February 1788 to March 1788
A Criminal Court held–Broken Bay explored by Governor
Phillip–Interviews with the Natives–Peculiarities
remarked–Friendly behaviour and extraordinary courage of an old
man.
Governor Phillip soon found with great regret, though
doubtless without much surprise, that in the community committed
to his care the strict enforcement of the sanctions of law was
peculiarly necessary. There were in it many individuals whom
neither lenity could touch, nor rigour terrify; who, with all
sense of social duty, appeared to have lost all value for life
itself, and with the same wantonness exposed themselves to the
darts of the savages, and to the severe punishments which,
however reluctantly, every society must inflict when milder
methods have been tried without success. Towards the latter end
of February a criminal court was convened, in which six of the
convicts received sentence of death. One, who was the head of the
gang, was executed the same day; of the rest, one was pardoned;
the other four were reprieved, and afterwards exiled to a small
island within the bay, where they were kept on bread and water.
These men had frequently robbed the stores, and the other
convicts. He who suffered, and two others, had been detected in
stealing from the stores the very day that they had received a
week’s provision; at a time when their allowance, as settled by
the Navy Board, was the same as that of the soldiers, spirituous
liquors excepted. So inveterate were their habits of dishonesty,
that even the apparent want of a motive could not repress
them.
2 March 1788
On the 2d of March Governor Phillip went with a long boat and
cutter to examine the broken land, mentioned by Captain Cook,
about eight miles to the northward of Port Jackson, and by him
named Broken Bay. This bay proved to be very extensive. The first
night they slept in the boats, within a rocky point in the
north-west part of the bay, as the natives, though friendly,
appeared to be numerous; and the next day, after passing a bar
that had only water for small vessels, they entered a very
extensive branch, from which the ebb tide came out so strong that
the boats could not row against it in the stream; and here was
deep water. This opening appeared to end in several small
branches, and in a large lagoon which could not then be examined,
as there was not time to seek a channel for the boats among the
banks of sand and mud. Most of the land in the upper part of this
branch was low and full of swamps. Pelicans and various other
birds were here seen in great numbers. Among the rest an uncommon
kind, called then the Hooded Gull, and supposed to be a non
descript; but it appears from a drawing sent to England, a plate
from which is here inserted, to be of that species called by Mr.
Latham the Caspian Tern, and is described by him as the second
variety of that species.*
[* Latham’s Synopsis of Birds, vol. vi. p. 351.]
Caspian Tern
Leaving this north-west branch they proceeded across the bay,
and went into the south-west branch. This is also very extensive;
and from it runs a second opening to the westward, affording
shelter for almost any number of ships. In this part, as far as
could then be examined, there is water for vessels of the
greatest burthen, the soundings being at the entrance seven
fathoms, and in going up still more. Continual rains prevented
them from taking a survey. The land here was found much higher
than at Port Jackson, more rocky, and equally covered with
timber. Large trees were seen growing even on the summits of the
mountains, which appeared accessible only to birds. Immediately
round the headland that forms the southern entrance into the bay,
there is a third branch, which Governor Phillip thought the
finest piece of water he had ever seen; and which therefore he
thought worthy to be honoured with the name of Pitt Water. This,
as well as the south-west branch, is of sufficient extent to
contain all the navy of Great Britain. But on a narrow bar which
runs across the entrance it has only eighteen feet depth at low
water. Within the bar there are from seven to fifteen fathoms.
The land is not so high in this part as in the south-west branch,
and there are some good situations where the land might be
cultivated. Small springs of water were seen in most of the
coves, and three cascades falling from heights, which the rains
at that time rendered inaccessible.
In this excursion some interviews with the natives took place.
When the party first landed in Broken Bay several women came down
to the beach with the men. One of these, a young woman, was very
talkative and remarkably cheerful. This was a singular instance,
for in general they are observed on this coast to be much less
cheerful than the men, and apparently under great awe and
subjection. They certainly are not treated with much tenderness,
and it is thought that they are employed chiefly in the canoes,
in which women have frequently been seen with very young children
at the breast. The lively young lady, when she joined the party
the second day in her canoe, stood up and gave a song which was
far from unpleasing. The men very readily gave their assistance
to the English in making a fire, and behaved in the most friendly
manner. In a bay where Governor Phillip and his company landed to
draw the seine, a number of the natives again came to them. It
was now first observed by the Governor that the women in general
had lost two joints from the little finger of the left hand. As
these appeared to be all married women, he at first conjectured
this privation to be a part of the marriage ceremony; but going
afterwards into a hut where were several women and children, he
saw a girl of five or six years of age whose left hand was thus
mutilated; and at the same time an old woman, and another who
appeared to have had children, on both of whom all the fingers
were perfect. Several instances were afterwards observed of women
with child, and of others that were evidently wives, who had not
lost the two joints, and of children from whom they had been cut.
Whatever be the occasion of this mutilation, it is performed on
females only; and considering the imperfection of their
instruments, must be a very painful operation. Nothing has been
seen in the possession of these people that is at all calculated
for performing such an amputation, except a shell fixed to a
short stick, and used generally for pointing their spears, or for
separating the oysters from the rocks. More fingers than one are
never cut; and in every instance it is the same finger that has
suffered.*
[* In Patterson’s Travels in Africa, lately published, we are
told, that he met with a tribe of Hottentots near Orange River,
all of whom had lost the first joint of the little finger: the
reason they gave for cutting it off was, that it was a cure for a
particular sickness to which they were subject when young. Fourth
Journey, p. 117. It would be a curious coincidence of customs
should it be discovered that the natives of New Holland do it for
any similar reason.]
The men are distinguished in a different manner: their fingers
are not mutilated, but most of them, as other voyagers have
observed, want the right front tooth in the upper jaw. Governor
Phillip having remarked this, pointed out to them that he had
himself lost one of his front teeth, which occasioned a general
clamour; and it was thought he derived some merit in their
opinion from this circumstance. The perforation of the cartilage
that divides the nostrils, and the strange disfiguring ornament
of a long bone or stick thrust through it, was now observed, as
described by Captain Cook; and the same appellation of sprit-sail
yard, was ludicrously applied to it by the sailors. But several
very old men were seen in this excursion who had not lost the
tooth, nor had their noses prepared to receive that grotesque
appendage: probably, therefore, these are marks of distinction:
ambition must have its badges, and where cloaths are not worn,
the body itself must be compelled to bear them.
Whether the scars raised upon the skin were of this kind, or
as Captain Cook understood by their signs, marks of sorrow for
deceased friends, could not now be learnt. They are of a very
singular nature: sometimes the skin is raised from the flesh for
several inches, appearing as if it were filled with wind, and
forming a round surface of more than a quarter of an inch
diameter. Their bodies are scarred in various parts, particularly
about the breast and arms, and frequently on the instep. Nor does
the head always escape; one man in particular, putting aside the
hair on the forepart of his head, showed a scar, and then
pointing to one on the foot, and to others on different parts of
the body, seemed to intimate that he thought himself much
honoured by having these marks upon him from head to foot. The
women did not appear equally forward to produce the mutilated
finger; nor was it always possible to ascertain whether they had
lost the joints or not. For though they made no attempt to
secrete themselves, nor seemed impressed with any idea that one
part of the body more requires concealment than another, yet
there was a shyness and timidity among them which frequently kept
them at a distance. They never would approach so readily as the
men, and sometimes would not even land from their canoes, but
made signs that what was offered should be given to the men. We
are not yet enough acquainted with the manners of the people to
decide whether this reserve proceeds from the fears of the women,
or from the jealousy of their husbands, by whom they are
evidently kept in great subordination.
One of their modes of fishing was now observed: their hooks
are made of the inside of a shell resembling mother of pearl.
When a fish which has taken the bait is supposed to be too strong
to be landed with the line, the canoe is paddled to shore, and
while one man gently draws the fish along, another stands
prepared to strike it with a spear: in this attempt they seldom
fail. In the plate which represents this action, the engraver has
inadvertently left the bodies of the figures rather too white; in
other respects it is very accurate.
Natives of Botany Bay
When the southern branch of Broken Bay was first visited, the
getting round the headland that separates the branches, was
attended with some difficulty, on account of very heavy squalls
of wind, accompanied with rain. An attempt was made to land,
where there proved not to be sufficient water for the boat.
During this transaction, an old man and a youth were standing on
the rocks where the boat was trying to approach. Having seen how
much our men had laboured to get under land, they were very
solicitous to point out the deepest water. Afterwards they
brought fire, and seemed willing to render any service in their
power. Two of the officers suffered themselves to be conducted by
the old man to a cave at some distance, but declined going in,
though he invited them by all the signs he could invent. This was
rather unfortunate, as the rain was falling very violently, and
the cave was found next day sufficiently large to have sheltered
the whole party. The old man certainly took great pains to make
this understood, but the motive of his earnestness unluckily was
mistaken, and his visitors suffered for their suspicions. He
afterwards assisted in clearing away the bushes, and making
preparations for the party to sleep on shore, and next morning
was rewarded with presents for his very friendly behaviour. Two
days afterwards, when Governor Phillip returned to the same spot,
the old man met him with a dance and a song of joy. His son was
with him, and several of the natives; a hatchet was given them
and other presents; and as the Governor was to return next day to
Port Jackson, it was hoped that the friendship thus begun, and so
studiously cultivated, would have continued firm. But as soon as
it was dark, the old man stole a spade, and was caught with it in
his hand. Governor Phillip thought it necessary, on this
occasion, to shew some tokens of displeasure, and therefore when
the delinquent approached, he gave him two or three slight slaps
on the shoulder, and then pushed him away, at the same time
pointing to the spade. This gentle chastisement at once destroyed
their friendship. The old man immediately seized a spear, and
coming close up to the Governor, poized it, and seemed determined
to strike. But seeing that his threats were disregarded, (for his
antagonist chose rather to risk the effects of his anger than to
fire upon him) or perhaps dissuaded by something the other
natives said, in a few moments he dropped the spear and went
away. It was impossible not to be struck with the courage
displayed by him on this occasion, for Governor Phillip at the
time was not alone, but had several officers and men about him.
From this and other similar events, personal bravery appears to
be a quality in which the natives of New South Wales are not by
any means deficient. The old man returned the next morning with
many other natives, but, in order to convince him of his fault,
he was less noticed than his companions, who were presented with
hatchets and various other articles.
9 March 1788
It was now the 9th of March, and Governor Phillip returned to
Port Jackson: having gained some useful knowledge of the country,
and maintained an intercourse with the natives without departing
from his favourite plan of treating them with the utmost
kindness. He had endeavoured at the same time to gain their
confidence, if possible, and secure their friendship. If these
humane endeavours were afterwards rendered fruitless by the
wanton profligacy of some depraved individuals, however he might
regret it, he could have no reason to reproach himself.
The rain, which was almost constant, prevented the Governor
from returning by land, which otherwise he meant to have done,
for the sake of exploring a part of the country which appeared to
be good and free from timber.
Chapter X.
March 1788
Departure of the French Ships–Death of M. Le Receveur–Return
of the Supply from Norfolk Island–Description of that
Place–Howe Island discovered.
10 March 1788
On the 10th of March, the French ships sailed from Botany Bay.
M. De la Peyrouse during his stay there had set up two long
boats, the frames of which he had brought with him from Europe.
There had not been much intercourse between the French and
English in this interval: both being too busily employed to waste
their time in parties of pleasure. Captain Clonard had waited on
Governor Phillip with the letters which were to be forwarded to
the French ambassador; and a few of the English officers had gone
over by land about the same time to pay a visit in Botany Bay;
both parties were of course received with politeness and
hospitality. Some few of the convicts contrived to abscond, and
endeavoured to get admitted into the French ships, but were, with
great propriety, rejected. Those vessels returned towards the
north, where they were to make another voyage.
Chart of Norfolk Island
During the stay of M. De la Peyrouse in Botany Bay, Father Le
Receveur, who had come out in the Astrolabe as a naturalist,
died. His death was occasioned by wounds which he received in the
unfortunate rencounter at the Navigator’s Islands. A slight
monument was erected to his memory, with the following
inscription.
The monument being soon after destroyed by the natives,
Governor Phillip caused the inscription to be engraved on copper,
and affixed to a neighbouring tree. M. De la Peyrouse had paid a
similar tribute of respect to the memory of Captain Clerke, at
the harbour of St. Peter and Paul in Kamtschatka.
19 March 1788
On the 19th of this month, Lieutenant Ball arrived in the
Supply from Norfolk Island. He had made that island on the 29th
of February, but was five days off the coast before a place could
be found at which it was possible to land the stores and
provisions. So completely do the rocks surround the island, that
it was not easy to find a place even to land a man. At length,
however, they succeeded, having discovered at the south-west end,
a small opening in a reef that runs across a bay. Here the
people, provisions and stores were all put on shore in perfect
safety. The Commandant wrote in high spirits at the promising
appearance of his new territory; and subsequent accounts have
proved, that the opinion he then formed was not erroneous. He
described Norfolk Island as one entire wood, or rather as a
garden overrun with the noblest pines, in straightness, size, and
magnitude, far superior to any he had ever seen. Nothing can
exceed the fertility of its soil. Wherever it has been since
examined, a rich black mould has been found to the depth of five
or six feet: and the grain and garden seeds which have been sown,
such only excepted as were damaged in the carriage, or by the
weevil, have vegetated with the utmost luxuriance. To prevent
repetitions, it may perhaps be best to unite in this place the
accounts which have been received of this island, though many of
them will easily be perceived to be greatly posterior to this
first return of the Supply.
Norfolk Island is about seven leagues in circumference, and if
not originally formed, like many other small islands, by the
eruption of volcanic matter from the bed of the sea, must
doubtless have contained a volcano. This conclusion is formed
from the vast quantity of pumice stone which is scattered in all
parts of it, and mixed with the soil. The crater, or at least
some traces of its former existence, will probably be found at
the summit of a small mountain, which rises near the middle of
the island. To this mountain the Commandant has given the name of
Mount Pitt. The island is exceedingly well watered. At, or near
Mount Pitt, rises a strong and copious stream, which flowing
through a very fine valley, divides itself into several branches,
each of which retains sufficient force to be used in turning
mills: and in various parts of the island excellent springs have
been discovered.
The climate is pure, salubrious, and delightful, preserved
from oppressive heats by constant breezes from the sea, and of so
mild a temperature throughout the winter, that vegetation
continues there without interruption, one crop succeeding
another. Refreshing showers from time to time maintain perpetual
verdure; not indeed of grass, for none has yet been seen upon the
island, but of the trees, shrubs, and other vegetables which in
all parts grow abundantly. On the leaves of these, and of some
kinds in particular, the sheep, hogs, and goats, not only live,
but thrive and fatten very much. To the salubrity of the air
every individual in this little colony can bear ample testimony,
from the uninterrupted state of good health which has been in
general enjoyed.
When our settlers landed, there was not a single acre clear of
wood in the island, and the trees were so bound together by that
kind of creeping shrub called supple jack, interwoven in all
directions, as to render it very difficult to penetrate far among
them. The Commandant, small as his numbers were at first, by
indefatigable activity soon caused a space to be cleared
sufficient for the requisite accommodations, and for the
production of esculent vegetables of all kinds in the greatest
abundance. When the last accounts arrived, three acres of barley
were in a very thriving state, and ground was prepared to receive
rice and Indian corn. In the wheat there had been a
disappointment, the grain that was sown having been so much
injured by the weevil, as to be unfit for vegetation. But the
people were all at that time in commodious houses; and, according
to the declarations of Mr. King himself, in his letters to
Governor Phillip, there was not a doubt that this colony would be
in a situation to support itself entirely without assistance, in
less than four years: and with very little in the intermediate
time. Even two years would be more than sufficient for this
purpose, could a proper supply of black cattle be sent.
Fish are caught in great plenty, and in the proper season very
fine turtle. The woods are inhabited by innumerable tribes of
birds, many of them very gay in plumage. The most useful are
pigeons, which are very numerous, and a bird not unlike the
Guinea fowl, except in colour, (being chiefly white,) both of
which were at first so tame as to suffer themselves to be taken
by hand. Of plants that afford vegetables for the table, the
chief are cabbage palm, the wild plantain, the fern tree, a kind
of wild spinage, and a tree which produces a diminutive fruit,
bearing some resemblance to a currant. This, it is hoped, by
transplanting and care, will be much improved in size and
flavour.
But the productions which give the greatest importance to
Norfolk Island are the pines and the flax plant, the former
rising to a size and perfection unknown in other places, and
promising the most valuable supply of masts and spars for our
navy in the East Indies; the latter not less estimable for the
purposes of making sail-cloth, cordage, and even the finest
manufactures; growing in great plenty, and with such luxuriance
as to attain the height of eight feet.* The pines measure
frequently one hundred and sixty, or even one hundred and eighty
feet in height, and are sometimes nine or ten feet in diameter at
the bottom of the trunk. They rise to about eighty feet without a
branch; the wood is said to be of the best quality, almost as
light as that of the best Norway masts; and the turpentine
obtained from it is remarkable for purity and whiteness. The fern
tree is found also of a great height for its species, measuring
from seventy to eighty feet, and affords excellent food for the
sheep and other small cattle. A plant producing pepper, and
supposed to be the true oriental pepper, has been discovered
lately in the island, growing in great plenty; and specimens have
been sent to England, in order to ascertain this important
point.
[* The flax plant is thus described in Captain Cook’s first
voyage, vol. iii. p. 39. as found at New Zealand. “There is,
however, a plant that serves the inhabitants instead of hemp and
flax, which excels all that are put to the same purposes in other
countries. Of this plant there are two sorts; the leaves of both
resemble those of flags, but the flowers are smaller and their
clusters more numerous; in one kind they are yellow, and in the
other a deep red. Of the leaves of these plants, with very little
preparation, they make all their common apparel; and of these
they also make their strings, lines, and cordage for every
purpose, which are so much stronger than any thing we can make
with hemp, that they will not bear a comparison. From the same
plant, by another preparation, they draw long slender fibres
which shine like silk, and are as white as snow: of these, which
are also surprizingly strong, the finer clothes are made; and of
the leaves, without any other preparation than splitting them
into proper breadths and trying the strips together, they make
their fishing nets; some of which, as I have before remarked, are
of an enormous size.” It is added, that it is found in every kind
of soil. It is perennial, and has a bulbous root. Some of the
roots have lately been sent to England.]
The chief disadvantage experienced by those who are sent to
Norfolk Island, is the want of a good landing place. The bay
which has been used for this purpose is inclosed by a reef of
coral rock, through which there is a passage only for a boat; and
during the tide of flood, when the wind is westerly, the landing
is rather dangerous. In one of the debarkations a midshipman, who
was ordered to lie within the reef, that he might attend the
boats coming to shore, imprudently suffered his own boat to drive
into the surf, and was lost, with four men. He had been once
before overset in consequence of a similar inattention, and then
had lost one man. On the coast of the island are several small
bays, and there are still hopes that a better landing place may
be discovered; but the necessity of employing all the men in
sheltering themselves and the stores from the weather, or in
clearing ground for various purposes, has hitherto prevented Mr.
King from sending out any persons to complete the examination.
Should this enquiry prove unsuccessful, it is proposed to attempt
the blowing up of one or two small rocks, by which the reef is
rendered dangerous. If this expedient also should fail, the evil
must be borne with patience. In summer the landing will generally
be sufficiently secure; and seamen, who have seen the bay of
Riga, in the Baltic, declare, that it will at all times be safer
for a ship to load with masts and spars at Norfolk Island, than
in that place, where so many ships are freighted yearly.
Rats are the only quadrupeds which have been found in this
island; and from these, as well as from the ants, it was feared
the crops might suffer; but no great inconvenience has yet been
experienced from them; and proper exertions seldom fail in a
short time to reduce the number of such enemies, enough to make
their depredations very inconsiderable. On the whole, Norfolk
Island certainly deserves to be considered as an acquisition of
some importance, and is likely to answer even the most sanguine
expectations. Some canoes have been found on the rocks, which
were supposed to have been driven from New Zealand; but the
appearance of a fresh cocoa nut and a small piece of manufactured
wood, which seemed to have been only a small time in the water,
has lately suggested an idea that probably some inhabited island
may lie at no great distance. There has not been as yet any
opportunity to determine whether this opinion be well founded or
not.
A small island, but entirely uninhabited, was discovered by
Lieutenant Ball in his passage to Norfolk Island. In his return
he examined it, and found that the shore abounded with turtle,
but there was no good anchorage. He named it Lord Howe Island. It
is in 31° 36′ south latitude, and 159° east longitude.
Part of this island being very high may be seen at the distance
of sixteen leagues, and a rock to the south-east of it, may be
discerned even at eighteen leagues. In latitude 29° 25′
south, longitude 159° 59′ east, a very dangerous reef has
since been seen. The ship from which it was observed was then
four leagues to the southward, and it could not at that time be
ascertained how far it extends to the northward.
To expedite the cultivation of Norfolk Island a fresh
detachment was sent thither in October, consisting of an officer
and eight marines, with thirty convicts, consisting of ten women
and twenty men: Thus, there existed on this islet, when the last
accounts were transmitted, forty-four men and sixteen women, who,
having eighteen months provisions, lived comfortably on this
sequestered spot, under the prudent management of a youthful
ruler, of whose busy life the reader may wish to know all the
particulars, which at present can be authentically told.
Philip Gidley King, who had the honour to conduct the original
settlers to Norfolk Island, was born at Launceston in Cornwall,
on the 23d of April, 1758. He is the son of Philip King, of that
town, draper, who married the daughter of John Gidley, of Exeter,
attorney at law. Much as he owes to his parents, he is indebted
for his scholastic learning to Mr. Bailey at Yarmouth. He
derives, probably, some advantages from making an early choice of
his profession. At the age of twelve, he went to the East Indies
on board the Swallow frigate, Captain Shirley, by whom he was
rated a midshipman. From this station he returned to England, at
the end of five years, with much knowledge of his business, and
some acquaintance with the world. In 1775, he entered upon real
service; and has continued in active employment from that period
to this great epoch of his life. He went to Virginia with Captain
Bellew, in the Liverpool, during the year 1775; with whom he
continued till the shipwreck of that frigate in Delaware Bay. And
having entered on board the Princess Royal, in October 1778, he
was made a Lieutenant by Admiral Byron, in the Renown, on the
26th of November following. He returned to England in the
subsequent year; and served in the Channel on board the Kite
cutter, and Ariadne frigate, till the beginning of 1783. With
Captain Phillip he went to the East Indies, as Lieutenant of the
Europe, in January 1783; from whence he returned on the
restoration of complete peace, in May 1784. In this service it
was, that Phillip and King became acquainted with the merit of
each other. And when the expedition to New South Wales was
projected, King was appointed Lieutenant of the Sirius, on the
25th of October, 1786, at the same time that Phillip was
nominated Commander of the voyage.
Lieutenant King
Chapter XI.
March 1788 to May 1788
Three of the transports cleared–Two excursions made into the
country, on the fifteenth of April, and on the twenty-second–Huts of
the natives–Sculpture, and other particulars.
25 March 1788
On the 25th of March, the Charlotte, Lady Penrhyn, and
Scarborough transports, having been cleared of all their stores,
were discharged from government service, and left at liberty to
proceed for China, whenever their commanders should think proper.
The other ships were of necessity detained till the store-houses
could be finished.
15 April 1788
The month of April was not distinguished by any events that
deserve to be related, except two expeditions of Governor Phillip
for the purpose of exploring the country. On the first of these
excursions he set out on the 15th with provisions for four days;
attended by several officers, and a small party of marines. They
landed at the head of a small cove, called Shell Cove, near the
entrance of the harbour on the north side. Proceeding in this
direction they arrived at a large lake, which they examined,
though not without great labour. It was surrounded by a
considerable extent of bog and marshy ground, in which, in the
course of their progress, they were frequently plunged up to the
waist. On this lake they first observed a black swan, which
species, though proverbially rare in other parts of the world, is
here by no means uncommon, being found on most of the lakes. This
was a very noble bird, larger than the common swan, and equally
beautiful in form. On being shot at, it rose and discovered that
its wings were edged with white: the bill was tinged with
red.
In three days, with great difficulty, they passed the swamps
and marshes which lie near the harbour. Nothing can more fully
point out the great improvement which may be made by the industry
of a civilized people in this country, than the circumstances of
the small streams which descend into Port Jackson. They all
proceed from swamps produced by the stagnation of the water after
rising from the springs. When the obstacles which impede their
course can be removed, and free channels opened through which
they may flow, the adjacent ground will gradually be drained, and
the streams themselves will become more useful; at the same time
habitable and salubrious situations will be gained in places
where at present perpetual damps prevail, and the air itself
appears to stagnate.
On leaving these low grounds, they found them succeeded by a
rocky and barren country. The hills were covered with flowering
shrubs, but by means of various obstacles the ascending and
descending was difficult, and in many parts impracticable. At the
distance of about fifteen miles from the sea coast Governor
Phillip obtained a very fine view of the inland country and its
mountains, to several of which he now gave names. The most
northern of them he named Carmarthen Hills, the most southern
Lansdown Hills; one which lay between these was called Richmond
Hill. From the manner in which these mountains appeared to rise,
it was thought almost certain that a large river must descend
from among them. But it was now necessary to return, without
making any further examination.
22 April 1788
On the 22d another excursion of the same kind was undertaken:
Governor Phillip landed with his party near the head of the
harbour. Here they found a good country, but in a short time
arrived at a very close cover; and after passing the chief part
of the day in fruitless attempts to make their way through it,
were obliged to relinquish the attempt, and return. The next day,
by keeping close to the banks of a small creek for about four
miles, they contrived to pass the cover, and for the three
succeeding days continued their course to the west-ward. The
country through which they travelled was singularly fine, level,
or rising in small hills of a very pleasing and picturesque
appearance. The soil excellent, except in a few small spots where
it was stony. The trees growing at the distance of from twenty to
forty feet from each other, and in general entirely free from
underwood, which was confined to the stony and barren spots. On
the fifth day they ascended a small eminence, whence, for the
first time in this second expedition, they saw Carmarthen and
Lansdown Hills. The country round this hill was so beautiful,
that Governor Phillip gave it the name of Belle-vue. They were
still apparently thirty miles from the mountains which it had
been their object to reach, and not having found it practicable,
with the tents, arms, and other necessaries, to carry more than
six days provisions, were obliged to return. Even with this small
stock, the officers as well as men, had been under the necessity
of carrying heavy loads. Water for the use of the day was always
taken; for though it happened in every instance that pools of
water were found which had remained after the rains, yet this was
a supply on which they could not previously depend. The
extraordinary difficulty of penetrating into this country had now
been fully experienced; where unexpected delays from deep ravines
and other obstacles, frequently force the traveller from his
direct course, and baffle every conjecture concerning the time
required for passing a certain tract. The utmost extent of this
excursion in a direct line had not been more than thirty miles,
and it had taken up five days. The return of the party was
effected with much more ease; the track was made, and the trees
marked the whole way where they had passed; with these
assistances they reached their boats in a day and a half.
It was still the general opinion that the appearance of the
country promised the discovery of a large river in that district,
whenever the line now taken could be fully pursued. Another
expedition was therefore planned, in which it was determined, if
possible, to reach either Lansdown or Carmarthen Hills: and the
hope of so important a discovery as that of a river made every
one anxious to go, notwithstanding the great fatigue with which
these undertakings were attended. But this design was for the
present unavoidably deferred. Governor Phillip, who had not been
perfectly well even at the time of setting out on the excursion
to Broken Bay, had then contracted a severe pain in his side, by
sleeping frequently on the wet ground. This complaint had in the
two last journeys received so much increase, that he found it
absolutely necessary to allow himself the respite of a few weeks,
before he again encountered so much fatigue.
The country explored in this last journey was so good and so
fit for the purposes of cultivation, that the Governor resolved
to send a detachment to settle there, as soon as a sufficient
number could be spared from works of more immediate necessity.
But notwithstanding the goodness of the soil it is a matter of
astonishment how the natives, who know not how to avail
themselves of its fertility, can subsist in the inland country.
On the coast fish makes a considerable part of their food, but
where that cannot be had, it seems hardly possible that with
their spears, the only missile weapon yet observed among them,
they should be able to procure any kind of animal food. With the
assistance of their guns the English gentlemen could not obtain,
in the last six days they were out, more than was barely
sufficient for two meals. Yet, that these parts are frequented by
the natives was undeniably proved by the temporary huts which
were seen in several places. Near one of these huts the bones of
a kanguroo were found, and several trees were seen on fire. A
piece of a root resembling that of the fern tree was also picked
up by Governor Phillip; part of this root had been chewed, and so
recently that it was thought it could not have been left many
minutes. It seemed evident by several marks, that the natives had
only fled at the approach of the English party, but so
effectually did they conceal themselves that not one was
seen.
Hut in New South Wales
The number of the natives in these inland parts must, however,
be very small. Whether these reside by choice where they must
encounter so many difficulties, or whether they are driven from
the society of those who inhabit the coast, has not yet been
discovered. The huts seen here consisted of single pieces of
bark, about eleven feet in length, and from four to six in
breadth, bent in the middle while fresh from the tree, and set up
so as to form an acute angle, not a little resembling cards set
up by children. In the plate inserted here, not only the huts,
but some of the spears of the natives are introduced. It was
conjectured, that the chief use of these imperfect structures
might be, to conceal them from the animals for which they must
frequently be obliged to lie in wait. They may also afford
shelter from a shower of rain to one or two who sit or lie under
them. The bark of many trees was observed to be cut into notches,
as if for the purpose of climbing; and in several there were
holes, apparently the retreat of some animal, but enlarged by the
natives for the purpose of catching the inhabitant. The
enlargement of these holes with their imperfect instruments, must
itself be a work of time, and must require no little patience. In
some places, where the hole was rather too high to be reached
from the ground, boughs of trees were laid to facilitate the
ascent. The animals that take refuge in those places are probably
the squirrel, the opossum, or the kanguroo-rat. At the bottom of
one of these trees, the skin of a flying squirrel was found.
In many places fires had lately been made; but in one only
were seen any shells of oysters or muscles, and there not more
than half a dozen. Fish-bones were not found at all, which seems
to prove, that in their journies inland these people do not carry
with them any provisions of that kind. Kanguroos were frequently
seen, but were so shy that it was very difficult to shoot them.
With respect to these animals, it is rather an extraordinary
circumstance, that, notwithstanding their great shyness, and
notwithstanding they are daily shot at, more of them are seen
near the camp than in any other part of the country. The
kanguroo, though it resembles the jerboa in the peculiarity of
using only the hinder legs in progression, does not belong to
that genus. The pouch of the female, in which the young are
nursed, is thought to connect it rather with the opossum tribe.
This extraordinary formation, hitherto esteemed peculiar to that
one genus, seems, however, in New Holland not to be sufficiently
characteristic: it has been found both in the rat and the
squirrel kind. The largest kanguroo which has yet been shot
weighed about one hundred and forty pounds. But it has been
discovered that there are two kinds, one of which seldom exceeds
sixty pounds in weight: these live chiefly on the high grounds:
their hair is of a reddish cast, and the head is shorter than in
the larger sort. Young kanguroos which have been taken, have in a
few days grown very tame, but none have lived more than two or
three weeks. Yet it is still possible that when their proper food
shall be better known, they may be domesticated. Near some water,
in this journey, was found the dung of an animal that fed on
grass, which, it was supposed, could not have been less than a
horse. A kanguroo, so much above the usual size, would have been
an extraordinary phaenomenon, though no larger animal has yet
been seen, and the limits of growth in that species are not
ascertained. The tail of the kanguroo, which is very large, is
found to be used as a weapon of offence, and has given such
severe blows to dogs as to oblige them to desist from pursuit.
Its flesh is coarse and lean, nor would it probably be used for
food, where there was not a scarcity of fresh provisions. The
disproportion between the upper and lower parts of this animal is
greater than has been shown in any former delineations of it, but
is well expressed in the plate inserted here.
The dimensions of a stuffed kanguroo in the possession of Mr.
Nepean, are these,
The middle toe of the hind feet is remarkably long, strong,
and sharp.
The Kanguroo
The natives of New South Wales, though in so rude and
uncivilized a state as not even to have made an attempt towards
clothing themselves, notwithstanding that at times they evidently
suffer from the cold and wet, are not without notions of
sculpture. In all these excursions of Governor Phillip, and in
the neighbourhood of Botany Bay and Port Jackson, the figures of
animals, of shields, and weapons, and even of men, have been seen
carved upon the rocks, roughly indeed, but sufficiently well to
ascertain very fully what was the the object intended. Fish were
often represented, and in one place the form of a large lizard
was sketched out with tolerable accuracy. On the top of one of
the hills, the figure of a man in the attitude usually assumed by
them when they begin to dance, was executed in a still superior
style. That the arts of imitation and amusement, should thus in
any degree precede those of necessity, seems an exception to the
rules laid down by theory for the progress of invention. But
perhaps it may better be considered as a proof that the climate
is never so severe as to make the provision of covering or
shelter a matter of absolute necessity. Had these men been
exposed to a colder atmosphere, they would doubtless have had
clothes and houses, before they attempted to become
sculptors.
In all the country hitherto explored, the parties have seldom
gone a quarter of a mile without seeing trees which had been on
fire. As violent thunder storms are not uncommon on this coast,
it is possible that they may have been burnt by lightning, which
the gum-tree is thought particularly to attract; but it is
probable also that they may have been set on fire by the natives.
The gum-tree is highly combustible, and it is a common practice
with them to kindle their fires at the root of one of these
trees. When they quit a place they never extinguish the fire they
have made, but leave it to burn out, or to communicate its flames
to the tree, as accidental circumstances may determine.
Governor Phillip, on his return from this excursion, had the
mortification to find that five ewes and a lamb had been killed
very near the camp, and in the middle of the day. How this had
happened was not known, but it was conjectured that they must
have been killed by dogs belonging to the natives. The loss of
any part of the stock of cattle was a serious misfortune, since
it must be a considerable time before it could be replaced. Fish
affords, in this place, only an uncertain resource: on some days
great quantities are caught, though not sufficient to save any
material part of the provisions; but at times it is very scarce.
An account of the live stock at this time in the settlement is
subjoined to this chapter.
The three transports bound to China, sailed the 5th, 6th, and
8th of May; and the Supply having been caulked, sailed on the 6th
to Lord Howe Island for turtle, in hopes of giving some check to
the scurvy, with which the people were still so much affected
that near two hundred were incapable of work.
From the great labour which attended the clearing of the
ground it proved to be impracticable to sow at present more than
eight or ten acres with wheat and barley*: and it was apprehended
that even this crop would suffer from the depredations of ants
and field mice. In the beginning of May it was supposed, as it
had been once or twice before, that the rainy season was set in;
but in about a week the weather became fine again.
[* Besides what was sown by the Lieutenant Governor and other
individuals, for the support of their own stock: to assist whom,
the labour of the convicts was occasionally lent.]
Chapter XII.
May 1788 to June 1788
The Supply returns from Lord Howe Island–Some convicts
assaulted by the natives–excursion of Governor Phillip to Botany
Bay by Land–interview with many natives–the fourth of June
celebrated–some account of the climate.
25 May 1788
On the 25th of May, the Supply tender returned from Lord Howe
Island, but unfortunately without having been able to procure any
turtle. She had met with squally weather, and had been obliged to
cut away her best bower anchor, but suffered no other damage. The
three transports bound for China had all appeared off the island
while the Supply remained there.
About this time one of the convicts who, in searching for
vegetables, had gone a considerable way from the camp, returned
very dangerously wounded in the back. He said, that another man
who had gone out for the same purpose, had been carried off by
the natives in his sight, after having been wounded in the head.
A shirt and hat were afterwards found, both pierced with spears,
in one of the huts of the natives; but no intelligence of the man
could be gained. There could be little doubt that the convicts
had been the aggressors, though the man who returned strongly
denied having given any kind of provocation.
30 May 1788
On the thirtieth of May, two men who had been employed in
collecting rushes for thatch at some distance from the camp, were
found dead. One of them had four spears in his body, one of which
had pierced entirely through it: the other had not any marks of
violence upon him. In this case it was clearly proved that the
first injury had been offered by the unfortunate men, who paid so
dearly for their dishonesty and disobedience of orders; for they
had been seen with a canoe, which they had taken from one of the
fishing places. These events were much regretted by Governor
Phillip, as tending entirely to the frustration of the plan he
had so much at heart, of conciliating the affections of the
natives, and establishing a friendly intercourse with them.
As the rush-cutters tools had been carried away, the Governor
thought it might be possible to discover the natives who had been
concerned in this unfortunate affray; and to make them understand
that the conduct of their assailants had been entirely
unwarranted, and was very highly disapproved. He judged the
attempt to be at least worth making, as it seemed the only way to
restore that confidence which must have been interrupted by this
affair. The next day, therefore, he went out with a small party,
consisting altogether of twelve persons, and landed at the place
where the men were killed. After traversing the country for more
than twenty miles, they arrived at the north shore of Botany Bay,
without having met with one of the natives.
In this place, at length, they saw about twenty canoes
employed in fishing: and when the fires were made, and the party
encamped to pass the night upon the beach, it was fully expected
that some of those in the canoes would have joined them, but not
one appeared. The next morning, though fifty canoes were drawn up
on the beach, not a single person could be found belonging to
them. Governor Phillip had now determined to return to Port
Jackson; but as he went, keeping for some time near the sea
coast, he discovered a great number of the natives, apparently
more than could belong to that district, assembled at the mouth
of a cave. The party was within ten yards of them before they
were perceived, and the Governor had hardly time to make his
people halt before numbers appeared in arms. The man who seemed
to take the lead, as he advanced made signs for the English to
retire, but when he saw Governor Phillip approach alone, unarmed,
and in a friendly manner, he gave his spear away and met him with
perfect confidence. In less than three minutes the English party
found itself surrounded by two hundred and twelve men; but
nothing occurred in this transaction which could in the least
confirm the idea, that the natives were accustomed to act with
treachery, or inclined to take any cruel advantage of superiority
in numbers. The moment the offered friendship was accepted on
their side, they laid down their spears and stone hatchets, and
joined the party in the most amicable manner. Numbers of women
and children remained at a small distance, some of whom the men
afterwards brought down to receive the little articles which were
offered as presents. Nothing was seen among these people which
could at all prove that any of them had been engaged in the
affray with the rush-cutters; and the Governor parted with them
on the most friendly terms, but more convinced than ever of the
necessity of treating them with a proper degree of confidence, in
order to prevent disagreement. Had he gone up with all his party,
or had he even hesitated a moment before he advanced himself,
making the signals of friendship, a lance would probably have
been thrown, after which nothing could have prevented a
rencounter, which in such circumstances must have been fatal.
Here was seen the finest stream of water that had hitherto
been discovered in the country, but the cove into which it runs
lies very open to the sea. When the natives saw that the English
were going forward towards the next cove, one of them, an old
man, made signs that he might be allowed to go first. He did so,
and as soon as he had ascended the hill, called out, holding up
both his hands, (the usual signal of amity among these people) to
signify to the natives in the next cove that they who were
advancing were friends. The Governor’s party did not, however,
descend to that cove, but saw about forty men, so that, unless
they had assembled themselves on some particular occasion, they
must be more numerous in that part than had been before imagined.
Governor Phillip had calculated before, from the parties he had
seen, that in Botany Bay, Port Jackson, Broken Bay, and all the
intermediate country, the inhabitants could not exceed one
thousand five hundred. In crossing the hills at this time between
Botany Bay and Port Jackson, smoke was seen on the top of
Lansdown Hills, which seems to prove beyond a doubt, that the
country is inhabited as far as those mountains, which are not
less than fifty miles from the sea.
Further enquiries having given some reason to suppose, that
one of the natives had been murdered, and several wounded,
previously to the attack made upon the rush-cutters, Governor
Phillip on his return, proclaimed the reward of emancipation to
any convict who should discover the aggressors. This step, if it
did not in this instance procure any information, seemed likely
to prevent such acts of violence in future.
No very good fortune had hitherto attended the live stock
belonging to the settlement, but the heaviest blow was yet to
come. About this time the two bulls and four cows, belonging to
Government, and to the Governor, having been left for a time by
the man who was appointed to attend them, strayed into the woods,
and though they were traced to some distance, never could be
recovered. This was a loss which must be for some time
irreparable.
4 June 1788
The fourth of June was not suffered to pass without due
celebration. It was a day of remission from labour, and of
general festivity throughout the settlement. At sun-rise the
Sirius and Supply fired each a salute of twenty-one guns, and
again at one o’clock, when the marines on shore also saluted with
three vollies. At sunset the same honours were a third time
repeated from the ships; large bonfires were lighted, and the
whole camp afforded a scene of joy. That there might not be any
exception to the happiness of this day, the four convicts who had
been reprieved from death, and banished to an island in the
middle of the harbour, received a full pardon, and were sent for
to bear their part in the general exultation. The Governor, in
his letters, with that humanity which so strongly distinguishes
his character, says, he trusts that on this day there was not a
single heavy heart in this part of his Majesty’s dominions. His
own house was the centre of conviviality to all who could be
admitted to that society, nor was any thing neglected which in
such a situation could mark a day of celebrity, consistently with
propriety and good order. Perhaps no birth-day was ever
celebrated in more places, or more remote from each other, than
that of his Majesty on this day.
It was now, it seems, first generally known, that the name of
Cumberland County had been given by the Governor to this part of
the territory. This name had been fixed before the assembling of
the first courts, for the sake of preserving regularity in the
form of the public acts, in which it is usual to name the county.
The boundaries fixed for Cumberland County were, on the west,
Carmarthen and Lansdown Hills: on the north, the northern parts
of Broken Bay; and to the southward, the southern parts of Botany
Bay. Thus including completely these three principal bays, and
leaving the chief place of settlement at Sydney Cove nearly in
the centre.
On the 22d of June was a slight shock of an earthquake, which
did not last more than two or three seconds. It was felt by most
people in the camp, and by the Governor himself, who heard at the
same time a noise from the southward, which he took at first for
the report of guns fired at a great distance.
24 June 1788
On the 24th, a convict who had absconded on the 5th, having
been guilty of a robbery, returned into the camp almost starved.
He had hoped to subsist in the woods, but found it impossible.
One of the natives gave him a fish, and then made signs for him
to go away. He said, that afterwards he joined a party of the
natives, who would have burnt him, but that with some difficulty
he made his escape; and he pretended to have seen the remains of
a human body actually lying on a fire, but little credit can be
given to reports from such a quarter. He was of opinion that the
natives were at this time in great distress for food, and said,
that he had seen four of them dying in the woods, who made signs
for something to eat, as if they were perishing through hunger.
It is certain that very little fish could be caught at this time,
and the convict seemed desirous to suggest the notion that they
supplied their necessities occasionally with human flesh; but
there seems to be no good foundation for such an opinion. This
man was tried for his offence, pleaded guilty, and suffered with
another criminal.
View in New South Wales
It was now sufficiently ascertained, that though the necessity
of subsisting so long chiefly upon salt provisions, and of
remaining encamped in very wet weather had produced the scurvy,
and other disorders common in such circumstances, the climate
itself wherein this new settlement is fixed is mild and
salubrious. Heavy rains had generally attended the changes of the
moon during the winter months, but there had not been any time
that could properly be called a rainy season. The clearing away
of the woods will of course assist the circulation of air, and
continually increase the healthfulness of the place. Violent
storms of thunder and lightning sometimes happened, and Governor
Phillip observed the variation of his thermometer, in the shade,
to amount frequently to thirty-three degrees, between eight in
the morning and two in the afternoon. The report of the surgeon
at this time is subjoined.
Chapter XIII.
June 1788 to July 1788
Particular description of Sydney Cove–Of the buildings
actually erected–and of the intended town–A settlement made at
the head of the harbour.
There are few things more pleasing than the contemplation of
order and useful arrangement, arising gradually out of tumult and
confusion; and perhaps this satisfaction cannot any where be more
fully enjoyed than where a settlement of civilized people is
fixing itself upon a newly discovered or savage coast. The wild
appearance of land entirely untouched by cultivation, the close
and perplexed growing of trees, interrupted now and then by
barren spots, bare rocks, or spaces overgrown with weeds,
flowers, flowering shrubs, or underwood, scattered and
intermingled in the most promiscuous manner, are the first
objects that present themselves; afterwards, the irregular
placing of the first tents which are pitched, or huts which are
erected for immediate accommodation, wherever chance presents a
spot tolerably free from obstacles, or more easily cleared than
the rest, with the bustle of various hands busily employed in a
number of the most incongruous works, increases rather than
diminishes the disorder, and produces a confusion of effect,
which for a time appears inextricable, and seems to threaten an
endless continuance of perplexity. But by degrees large spaces
are opened, plans are formed, lines marked, and a prospect at
least of future regularity is clearly discerned, and is made the
more striking by the recollection of the former confusion.
Sketch of Sydney Cove
To this latter state the settlement at Sydney Cove had now at
length arrived, and is so represented in the plan annexed. Lines
are there traced out which distinguish the principal street of an
intended town, to be terminated by the Governor’s house, the main
guard, and the criminal court. In some parts of this space
temporary barracks at present stand, but no permanent buildings
will be suffered to be placed, except in conformity to the plan
laid down. Should the town be still further extended in future,
the form of other streets is also traced in such a manner as to
ensure a free circulation of air. The principal streets,
according to this design, will be two hundred feet wide; the
ground proposed for them to the southward is nearly level, and is
altogether an excellent situation for buildings. It is proposed
by Governor Phillip that when houses are to be built here, the
grants of land shall be made with such clauses as will prevent
the building of more than one house on one allotment, which is to
consist of sixty feet in front, and one hundred and fifty feet in
depth. These regulations will preserve a kind of uniformity in
the buildings, prevent narrow streets, and exclude many
inconveniences which a rapid increase of inhabitants might
otherwise occasion hereafter. It has been also an object of the
Governor’s attention to place the public buildings in situations
that will be eligible at all times, and particularly to give the
storehouses and hospital sufficient space for future enlargement,
should it be found necessary.
The first huts that were erected here were composed of very
perishable materials, the soft wood of the cabbage palm, being
only designed to afford immediate shelter. The necessity of using
the wood quite green made it also the less likely to prove
durable. The huts of the convicts were still more slight, being
composed only of upright posts, wattled with slight twigs, and
plaistered up with clay. Barracks and huts were afterwards formed
of materials rather more lasting. Buildings of stone might easily
have been raised, had there been any means of procuring lime for
mortar. The stone which has been found is of three sorts: A fine
free stone, reckoned equal in goodness to that of Portland; an
indifferent kind of sand stone, or firestone; and a sort which
appears to contain a mixture of iron. But neither chalk, nor any
species of lime-stone has yet been discovered. In building a
small house for the Governor on the eastern side of the Cove,
(marked 1 in the plan) lime was made of oyster shells, collected
in the neighbouring coves; but it cannot be expected that lime
should be supplied in this manner for many buildings, or indeed
for any of great extent. Till this difficulty shall be removed by
the discovery of chalk or lime-stone, the public buildings must
go on very slowly, unless care be taken to send out those
articles as ballast in all the ships destined for Port Jackson.
In the mean time the materials can only be laid in clay, which
makes it necessary to give great thickness to the walls, and even
then they are not so firm as might be wished. Good clay for
bricks is found near Sydney Cove, and very good bricks have been
made. The wood, from the specimens that have been received in
England, appears to be good; it is heavy indeed, but fine
grained, and apparently strong, and free from knots. The
imperfections that were found in it at first arose probably from
the want of previous seasoning.
The hospital is placed on the west side of the Cove, in a very
healthful situation, entirely clear of the town; and is built in
such a manner as to last for some years. On the high ground
between the hospital and the town, if water can be found by
sinking wells, it is the Governor’s intention to erect the
barracks, surrounding them with proper works. These were to have
been begun as soon as the transports were cleared, and the men
hutted, but the progress of work was rendered so slow by the want
of an adequate number of able workmen, that it was necessary to
postpone that undertaking for a time. The ground marked out for a
church lies still nearer to the town, so that this edifice will
form in part one side of the principal parade. The design which
demanded the most immediate execution was that of a storehouse,
which might be secure from the danger of fire. In a country
exposed to frequent storms of thunder and lightning, it was
rather an uneasy situation to have all the provisions and other
necessaries lodged in wooden buildings, covered with thatch of
the most combustible kind. On the point of land that forms the
west side of the Cove, and on an elevated spot, a small
observatory has been raised under the direction of Lieutenant
Dawes, who was charged by the Board of Longitude with the care of
observing the expected comet. The longitude of this observatory
is ascertained to be 159° 19′ 30″ east from Greenwich, and
the latitude 32° 52′ 30″ south. A small house, built by the
Lieutenant Governor for himself, forms at present the corner of
the parade; the principal street will be carried on at right
angles with the front of this building. Instead of thatch, they
now use shingles made from a tree in appearance like a fir, but
producing a wood not unlike the English oak. This, though more
secure than thatching, is not enough so for storehouses. For
these, if slate-stone should not be found, tiles must be made of
the clay which has been used for bricks. The principal farm is
situated in the next cove to the east of the town, and less than
half a mile from it. When the plan was drawn it contained about
nine acres laid down in corn of different kinds. Later accounts
speak of six acres of wheat, eight of barley, and six of other
grain, as raised on the public account, and in a very promising
way.
Sydney cove lies open to the north-east, and is continued in a
south-west direction for near a thousand yards, gradually
decreasing from the breadth of about one thousand four hundred
feet, till it terminates in a point, where it receives a small
stream of fresh water. The anchorage extends about two thousand
feet up the cove, and has soundings in general of four fathoms
near the shore, and five, six, or seven, nearer the middle of the
channel. It is perfectly secure in all winds; and for a
considerable way up on both sides, ships can lie almost close to
the shore: nor are there, in any part of it, rocks or shallows to
render the navigation dangerous. Such a situation could not fail
to appear desireable to a discerning man, whose object it was to
establish a settlement, which he knew must for some time depend
for support on the importation of the principal necessaries of
life.
It is supposed that metals of various kinds abound in the soil
on which the town is placed. A convict, who had formerly been
used to work in the Staffordshire lead mines, declared very
positively, that the ground which they were now clearing,
contains a large quantity of that ore: and copper is supposed to
lie under some rocks which were blown up in sinking a cellar for
the public stock of spirituous liquors. It is the opinion of the
Governor himself that several metals are actually contained in
the earth hereabouts, and that mines may hereafter be worked to
great advantage: but at present he strongly discourages any
search of this kind, very judiciously discerning, that in the
present situation of his people, which requires so many exertions
of a very different nature, the discovering of a mine would be
the greatest evil that could befal the settlement. In some places
where they dug, in making wells, they found a substance which at
first was taken for a metal, but which proving perfectly
refractory in a very strong and long continued heat, has since
been concluded to be black lead. The kind of pigment called by
painters Spanish brown, is found in great abundance, and the
white clay with which the natives paint themselves is still in
greater plenty. The Abbe le Receveur was of opinion, that this
clay, if cleared from the sand, which might easily be separated,
would make excellent porcelain.
The climate at Sydney Cove is considered, on the whole, as
equal to the finest in Europe. The rains are not ever of long
duration, and there are seldom any fogs: the soil, though in
general light, and rather sandy in this part, is full as good as
usually is found so near the sea-coast. All the plants and fruit
trees brought from Brasil and the Cape, which were not damaged in
the passage, thrive exceedingly; and vegetables have now become
plentiful, both the European sorts and such as are peculiar to
this country. In the Governor’s garden are excellent
cauliflowers, and melons very fine of their kinds. The orange
trees flourish, and the fig trees and vines are improving still
more rapidly. In a climate so favourable, the cultivation of the
vine may doubtless be carried to any degree of perfection; and
should not other articles of commerce divert the attention of the
settlers from this point, the wines of New South Wales may,
perhaps, hereafter be sought with avidity, and become an
indispensable part of the luxury of European tables.
The rank grass under the trees, unfortunately proved fatal to
all the sheep purchased by Governor Phillip, on his own and on
the public account. Those which private individuals kept close to
their own tents, and fed entirely there, were preserved. Hogs and
poultry not only thrive but increase very fast; black cattle will
doubtless succeed as well, and it will be easy in future to
secure them from straying. The horses have not met with any
accident.
The last dispatches from Governor Phillip bring an account of
his having sent a small detachment up to that ground at the upper
end of Port Jackson, which he discovered in one of his excursions
to be so highly fit for cultivation. This party consisted of a
captain, two lieutenants of marines, with twenty-five
non-commissioned officers and privates: about fifty convicts were
added as labourers. This spot is very pleasant, and has been
named by the Governor, Rose-hill. The flax-plant, which was seen
at the first arrival of our people, has not been found since in
any great abundance. A most ample supply of this valuable article
may, however, always be obtained from Norfolk Island. Governor
Phillip, when he judged the seeds to be ripe, ordered them to be
collected, but at that time very few of the plants were found,
and not any in the places where the greatest quantity had been
seen. It is thought that the natives pull up the plant when it is
in flower to make their fishing lines.
On the whole, notwithstanding the difficulties and
disadvantages at first experienced, which, though great, were not
more than must naturally be expected to occur in such an
undertaking; notwithstanding the sicknesses which from various
causes prevailed for some time among the people, the settlement
at Sydney Cove wore a very promising aspect at the time when the
last accounts were sent; and there can be no doubt that it will
be found hereafter fully to answer every expectation which was
formed when the design was projected. The scantiness of the
streams of fresh water was thought at first unfavourable, but
good springs have since been found by digging. The house built
for Governor Phillip stands about fifty-six feet above high-water
mark, and there, by sinking a well about fifteen feet in the
rock, an excellent spring of pure water has been obtained.
Chapter XIV.
July 1788 to October 1788
Fish violently seized by the natives–Another expedition of
the Governor–Further account of the manners and manufactures of
the native inhabitants of New South Wales–Difficulty of
obtaining any intercourse.
9 July 1788
On the ninth of July, an effort was made by a party of
natives, which seems to indicate that they were still distressed
for provisions, or that they very highly resent the incroachments
made upon their fishing places. A general order had been issued
to those sent out on fishing parties, to give a part of what was
caught to the natives if they approached, however small the
quantity taken might be; and by these means they had always been
sent away apparently satisfied. But on this day, about twenty of
them, armed with spears, came down to the spot where our men were
fishing, and without any previous attempt to obtain their purpose
by fair means, violently seized the greatest part of the fish
which was in the seine. While this detachment performed this act
of depredation, a much greater number stood at a small distance
with their spears poized, ready to have thrown them if any
resistance had been made. But the cockswain who commanded the
fishing party, very prudently suffered them to take away what
they chose, and they parted on good terms. This is the only
instance in which these people have attempted any unprovoked act
of violence, and to this they probably were driven by necessity.
Since this transaction, an officer has always been sent down the
harbour with the boat.
Governor Phillip went out about this time with a small party,
to examine the land between Port Jackson and Broken Bay. Here
were found many hundred acres of land, free from timber, and very
fit for cultivation. He proceeded as far as Pitt Water, and saw
several of the natives, but none of them chose to approach. When
the party returned to the boats near the mouth of the harbour,
about sixty of these people, men, women, and children, were
assembled there. Some hours were passed with them in a peaceful
and very friendly manner, but though in all this time they
discovered no uneasiness, they seemed best pleased when their
visitors were preparing to depart. This has always been the case,
since it has been known among them that our people intend to
remain on the coast. Many of the women were employed at this time
in fishing, a service which is not uncommonly performed by them,
the men being chiefly occupied in making canoes, spears,
fish-gigs, and the other articles that constitute their small
stock of necessary implements. Two women were here observed to be
scarred on the shoulders like the men; this was the first
instance in which they had been seen so marked.
The sailors who waited on the beach to take care of the boat
saw about two hundred men assembled in two parties, who after
some time drew themselves up on opposite sides, and from each
party men advanced singly and threw their spears, guarding
themselves at the same time with their shields. This seemed at
first to be merely a kind of exercise, for the women belonging to
both parties remained together on the beach; afterwards it had a
more serious aspect, and the women are said to have run up and
down in great agitation uttering violent shrieks. But it was not
perceived that any men were killed.
As it had been supposed that many of the natives had left this
part of the coast, on account of the great scarcity of fish, the
different coves of the harbour were examined in one day. At this
time, not more than sixty-seven canoes were counted, and about
one hundred and thirty of the people were seen. But it was the
season in which they make their new canoes, and large parties
were known to be in the woods for that purpose.
A few days after this examination, Governor Phillip himself
went again to explore the coast between Port Jackson and Botany
Bay. In this journey few of the natives were seen, but new proofs
were observed of their having been distressed for food. In the
preceding summer they would not eat either the shark or the
sting-ray, but now even coarser meat was acceptable, and indeed
any thing that could afford the smallest nourishment. A young
whale had just been driven upon the coast, which they were busily
employed in carrying away. All that were seen at this time had
large pieces of it, which appeared to have been laid upon the
fire only long enough to scorch the outside. In this state they
always eat their fish, never broiling it for more than a few
minutes; they broil also the fern root, and another root, of
which the plant is not yet known; and they usually eat together
in families. Among the fruits used by them is a kind of wild fig;
and they eat also the kernels of that fruit which resembles a
pine-apple. The latter, when eaten by some of the French seamen,
occasioned violent retchings; possibly the natives may remove the
noxious qualities, by some process like those employed upon the
cassada. The winter months, in which fish is very scarce upon the
coast, are June, July, August, and part of September. From the
beaten paths that are seen between Port Jackson and Broken Bay,
and in other parts, it is thought that the natives frequently
change their situation, but it has not been perceived that they
make any regular migrations to the northward in the winter
months, or to the south in summer.
In consequence of the very extraordinary shyness of these
people since the arrival of our settlement, little addition has
been made to the knowledge of their manners attained by Captain
Cook: but most of his observations have been confirmed. The
whole, indeed, that can be known of a people, among whom
civilization and the arts of life have made so small a progress,
must amount to very little. The assertion that they have no
nets*, is amongst the very few that have been found erroneous.
Some small nets have been brought over, the manufacture of which
is very curious. The twine of which they are made, appears to be
composed of the fibres of the flax plant, with very little
preparation; it is very strong, heavy, and so admirably well
twisted as to have the appearance of the best whipcord. Governor
Phillip mentions having had lines of their manufacture, which
were made from the fur of some animal, and others that appeared
to be of cotton. The meshes of their nets are formed of large
loops, very artificially inserted into each other, but without
any knots. At a small distance they have exactly the appearance
of our common nets, but when they are closely examined the
peculiar mode in which the loops are managed is very remarkable.
Some ladies who have inspected one of these nets lately imported,
declare that it is formed exactly on the same principle as the
ground of point lace, except that it has only one turn of the
thread, instead of two, in every loop. This net appears to have
been used either as a landing net, or for the purpose of carrying
the fish when taken. They have also small hoop nets, in which
they catch lobsters, and sea crayfish. Their canoes and other
implements are very exactly described by Captain Cook.
[* Cook’s first voyage, Hawkesworth, Vol. III. p. 233.–If it
was only meant that they have no large nets for fishing, like the
feine, as the New Zealanders have, the remark is certainly
true.]
Axe, Basket, and Sword
The inhabitants of New South Wales have very few ornaments,
except those which are impressed upon the skin itself, or laid on
in the manner of paint. The men keep their beards short, it is
thought by scorching off the hair, and several of them at the
first arrival of our people seemed to take great delight in being
shaved. They sometimes hang in their hair the teeth of dogs, and
other animals, the claws of lobsters, and several small bones,
which they fasten there by means of gum; but such ornaments have
never been seen upon the women. Though they have not made any
attempt towards clothing themselves, they are by no means
insensible of the cold, and appear very much to dislike the rain.
During a shower they have been observed to cover their heads with
pieces of bark, and to shiver exceedingly. Governor Phillip was
convinced by these circumstances that clothing would be very
acceptable to them, if they could be induced to come enough among
the English to learn the use of it. He has therefore applied for
a supply of frocks and jackets to distribute among them, which
are to be made long and loose, and to serve for either men or
women.
The bodies of these people in general smell strongly of oil,
and the darkness of their colour is much increased by dirt. But
though in these points they shew so little delicacy, they are not
without emotions of disgust, when they meet with strong effluvia
to which their organs are unaccustomed. One of them, after having
touched a piece of pork, held out his finger for his companions
to smell, with strong marks of distaste. Bread and meat they
seldom refuse to take, but generally throw it away soon after.
Fish they always accept very eagerly.
Whether they use any particular rites of burial is not yet
known, but from the following account it seems evident that they
burn their dead. The ground having been observed to be raised in
several places, like the ruder kind of graves of the common
people in our church yards, Governor Phillip caused some of these
barrows to be opened. In one of them a jaw bone was found not
quite consumed, but in general they contained only ashes. From
the manner in which these ashes were disposed, it appeared that
the body must have been laid at length, raised from the ground a
few inches only, or just enough to admit a fire under it; and
having been consumed in this posture, it must then have been
covered lightly over with mould. Fern is usually spread upon the
surface, with a few stones, to keep it from being dispersed by
the wind. These graves have not been found in very great numbers,
nor ever near their huts.
When the latest accounts arrived from Port Jackson, the
natives still avoided all intercourse with our settlement,
whether from dislike or from contempt is not perfectly clear:
They think perhaps that we cannot teach them any thing of
sufficient value to make them amends for our encroachments upon
their fishing places. They seem to be among themselves perfectly
honest, and often leave their spears and other implements upon
the beach, in full confidence of finding them untouched. But the
convicts too frequently carry them off, and dispose of them to
vessels coming to England, though at the hazard on one side of
being prosecuted for theft, and on the other for purchasing
stolen goods. Injuries of this nature they generally revenge on
such stragglers as they happen to meet; and perhaps have already
learnt to distinguish these freebooters, by their blue and yellow
jackets, as they very early did the soldiers by their red
clothes. Beyond these attacks they have not yet committed any
open acts of hostility, except the seizing of the fish in the
instance above related. They have not attempted to annoy the
settlers by setting fire to the grass, as they did when Captain
Cook was on the coast; nor have they, which is more important,
shown any desire to burn the crops of corn. So absolutely
indispensable to the welfare of the settlement is the
preservation of the grain, that an attempt of this kind must at
all events be counteracted; but in no other case will any harsh
measures be adopted, or any effort made to drive them to a
greater distance. Conciliation is the only plan intended to be
pursued: But Governor Phillip, when he last wrote, seemed to
despair of getting any of them to remain among his people, long
enough for either to acquire the language of the other, except by
constraint. Hitherto he has been unwilling to take this method,
but if it can be done in such a manner as not to create any
general alarm among them, it will probably turn out to be the
kindest piece of violence that could be used. Whenever it shall
be practicable, by any means, to explain to them the friendly
disposition of Governor Phillip and his people towards them, and
to make them understand, that the men from whom they receive
occasional injuries, are already a disgraced class, and liable to
severe punishment for such proceedings, they will then perhaps
acquire sufficient confidence in their new countrymen to mix with
them, to enrich themselves with some of their implements, and to
learn and adopt some of the most useful and necessary of their
arts. It may, indeed, admit of a doubt whether many of the
accommodations of civilized life, be not more than
counterbalanced by the artificial wants to which they give birth;
but it is undeniably certain that to teach the shivering savage
how to clothe his body, and to shelter himself completely from
the cold and wet, and to put into the hands of men, ready to
perish for one half of the year with hunger, the means of
procuring constant and abundant provision, must be to confer upon
them benefits of the highest value and importance.
According to the latest advices from Governor Phillip, the
Sirius sailed for the Cape on the 2d of October, 1788, to
purchase grain, flour, and other necessaries. Live stock was not
to be procured by this ship, as being less wanted in the present
state of the settlement, which had provisions in store for
eighteen months, but not grain enough for seed, and for the
support of cattle. The Fishburn and Golden Grove storeships
sailed in November for England; the Supply was detained in Port
Jackson for occasional use. At this time the officers were all in
separate houses, and the whole detachment comfortably lodged,
though the barracks were yet unfinished. Nothing more, that
requires to be related, has yet been heard from the
settlement.
REMARKS and DIRECTIONS for SAILING into PORT JACKSON, by Capt.
J. HUNTER, of the Sirius.
In coming in with Port Jackson, you will not immediately
discover where the harbour is: Steer right in for the outer
points, for there is not any thing in the way but what shows
itself by the sea breaking on it, except a reef on the south
shore which runs off a small distance only: when you are past
this reef and are a-breast the next point on the same side, you
will open to the south-ward of you an extensive branch of the
harbour, into which you will sail; taking care to keep the shore
on either side well on board, for there is a reef which dries at
low water and lies very near the mid-channel, right off the first
sandy cove on the east shore; this reef is pretty broad athwart,
as well as up and down the channel, and shoals very gradually:
The marks for it are, the outer north point and inner south point
touching, Green Point will then be on with a remarkable notch in
the back land. To avoid it to the eastward, pass the inner south
head a cable’s length from it, and when you open any part of the
sandy beach of Camp Cove, haul short in for it until you bring
the inner north head and inner south head on with each other;
that mark will carry you up in five and six fathom: But if you
cannot weather the reef, tack and stand into Camp Cove, which
shoals gradually. If you pass to the westward of the reef, steer
in for Middle Cape, which is steep too, then steer up for the
next point above it on the same side; when you are that length,
you may take what part of the channel you please, or anchor where
you like.
It flows Full and Change a quarter past eight.
Rises 4 6 Neap Tide.
Rises 6 0 Spring Tide.
Plan of Port Jackson
Chapter XV.
Some Specimens of Animals from New South Wales.
The great advantage of a scientific eye over that of the
unlearned observer, in viewing the productions of nature, cannot
be more strongly exemplified than by the present state of the
natural history of Botany Bay, and its vicinity. The English who
first visited this part of the coast, staid there only a week,
but having among them persons deeply versed in the study of
nature, produced an account, to which the present settlers, after
a residence of near eleven months when the last dispatches were
dated, have been able to add but very little of importance. The
properties and relations of many objects are known to the
philosopher at first sight, his enquiries after novelty are
conducted with sagacity, and when he cannot describe by name what
he discovers, as being yet unnamed, he can at least refer it to
its proper class and genus. The observation of unskilful persons
is often detailed by trivial resemblances, while it passes by the
marks which are really characteristic. Governor Phillip, in one
of his letters, remarking the prodigious variety of vegetable
productions then before his eyes, laments, that among all the
people with him there happens not to be one who has any tolerable
knowledge of botany. This circumstance is perhaps less to be
regretted than a deficiency in any other branch of natural
knowledge. The researches of some gentlemen among the first
voyagers were particularly directed to botanical discoveries, and
a work which is now preparing, in a style of uncommon accuracy
and elegance by one of the most illustrious of them, will
probably discover that there was little left undone, even in
their short stay, towards completing that branch of enquiry. Of
quadrupeds the whole stock contained in the country appears to be
confined to a very few species: Wolves have not been seen, though
the tracks of them were so frequently thought to be detected on
this coast by Captain Cook’s party. Birds are numerous, but they
belong in general to classes already known to naturalists; a few
drawings however, and specimens of both, have been sent over.
These, to gratify, as far as possible, the curiosity of those
readers whose attention is particularly directed to natural
history, have been engraved, and a short account of them is
thrown together in this chapter. Of reptiles few have been seen
that are at all curious. A large Lizard, of the Scincus kind,
with the remarkable peculiarity of a small spine or horn standing
near the extremity of the tail, is said to be among some
specimens sent over as private presents; and also a kind of frog,
whose colour is blue; but these do not in other respects differ
materially from the usual form of their respective species. The
ants are fully described in Captain Cook’s first voyage.
QUADRUPEDS.
The KANGUROO has been particularly described already.
THE SPOTTED OPOSSUM.
The annexed plate represents a small animal of the opossum
kind, which has not before been delineated. It is perhaps the
same which is slightly described in Captain Cook’s first voyage
as resembling a polecat, having the back spotted with white; and
is there said to be called by the natives Quoll.* The colour
however is darker, being rather black than brown.
[* Hawkesw. iii. p. 222.]
Spotted Opossum
The Spotted Opossum, for so it may properly be named, is in
length from the nose to the extremity of the tail about
twenty-five inches, of which the tail itself takes up about nine
or ten. The general colour of the animal is black, inclining to
brown beneath; the neck and body spotted with irregular roundish
patches of white; the ears are pretty large, and stand erect, the
visage is pointed, the muzzle furnished with long slender hairs;
the fore, as well as hind legs, from the knees downward, almost
naked, and ash-coloured; on the fore feet are five claws, and on
the hind, four and a thumb without a claw; the tail, for about an
inch and an half from the root, covered with hairs of the same
length as those on the body, from thence to the end with long
ones not unlike that of a squirrel. The specimen from which the
above account was taken, is a female, and has six teats placed in
a circle, within the pouch.
Another animal of the opossum kind has been sent alive to the
Rev. Dr. Hamilton, Rector of St. Martin’s, Westminster, and is
now living in the possession of Mr. J. Hunter. It appears to be
of the same sort as that mentioned in Captain Cook’s first
voyage,* and that also which was found near Adventure Bay,
represented in the eighth plate of Captain Cook’s third voyage,
and slightly described in Vol. I. p. 109 of that work: but it
must be owned, that neither its form nor character is very well
expressed in that plate.
[* Hawkesw. vol. iii. p. 182.]
The countenance of this animal much resembles that of a fox,
but its manners approach more nearly to those of the squirrel.
When disposed to sleep, or to remain inactive, it coils itself up
into a round form; but when eating, or on the watch for any
purpose, sits up, throwing its tail behind it. In this posture it
uses its fore feet to hold any thing, and to feed itself. When
irritated, it sits still more erect on the hind legs, or throws
itself upon its back, making a loud and harsh noise. It feeds
only on vegetable substances.
This specimen is a male. The fur is long, but close and thick;
of a mixed brown or greyish colour on the back, under the belly
and neck, of a yellowish white. Its length is about eighteen
inches, exclusive of the tail, which is twelve inches long, and
prehensile. The face is three inches in length, broad above and
very pointed at the muzzle, which is furnished with long
whiskers. The eyes are very large, but not fierce. On the fore
feet are five claws; on the hind, three and a thumb. The teeth
are two in the front of the upper jaw, and two in the lower; the
upper projecting beyond the under. In the Kanguroo it is
remarkable that there are four teeth in the upper jaw, opposed to
two in the under. The testicles are contained in a pendulous
scrotum, between the two thighs of the hind legs, as in the
common opossum. The affinity of almost all the quadrupeds yet
discovered on this coast to the opossum kind, in the circumstance
of the pouch in which the female receives and suckles her young,
seems to open a field of investigation most interesting to the
naturalist: and the public will doubtless learn with pleasure,
that it is the intention of the most able comparative anatomist
of the age, to give a paper on this subject to the Royal Society.
It cannot, therefore, be necessary at present to pursue the
enquiry any farther.
THE VULPINE OPOSSUM.
This is not unlike the common fox in shape, but considerably
inferior to it in respect to size, being, from the point of the
nose to the setting on of the tail, only twenty-six inches; the
tail itself fifteen inches: the upper parts of the body are of a
grisly colour, arising from a mixture of dusky and white hairs,
with rufous-yellow tinge; the head and shoulders partaking most
of this last colour: round the eyes blackish: above the nostrils
ten or twelve black whiskers, four inches or more in length: all
the under parts of the body are of a tawny buff-colour, deepest
on the throat, where the bottom of the hairs are rust-colour: the
tail is of the colour of the back for about one quarter of its
length, from thence to the end, black: the toes on the fore feet
are five in number, the inner one placed high up: on the hind
feet four toes only: with a thumb, consisting of two joints,
without a claw, placed high up at the base of the inner toe. The
whole foot serving the purpose of a hand, as observable in many
of the opossum genus. The legs are much shorter in proportion
than those of the common fox: the ears about one inch and an half
in length: in the upper jaw are six cutting teeth, and four
grinders, with two small canine teeth placed at an equal distance
between them: in the under jaw two long cutting teeth, not unlike
those of a squirrel, and four grinders to answer those in the
upper jaw, but no canine teeth.–A representation of the mouth
and teeth may be seen in one of the following plates.
Vulpine Opossum
NORFOLK ISLAND FLYING SQUIRREL.
Size of the American grey squirrel, and the general colour of
the upper parts very nearly resembling that animal; the under
parts white: from the nose to the tail runs a streak of dusky
black, and another springs on each side of the head behind the
nostrils, passing over the eyes and finishing behind them: ears
not rising from the head: on each side of the body is a broad
flap or membrane, as in other flying squirrels, which is united
to both the fore and hind legs, as usual in many of this
division: this membrane is black, fringed on the outer edge with
white: the tail for two-thirds of the length, is of an elegant
ash colour, paler than the body, from thence to the end dusky
black: the toes on the fore legs are five in number; those of the
hinder uncertain, as the legs behind were wanting: length from
head to rump nine inches; the tail is ten inches.
Norfolk Island Flying Squirrel
BIRDS.
BLUE BELLIED PARROT. Order II. Pies. Genus V. Species XIV.
Var. B.
Described thus by Mr. Latham.
“The length of this beautiful parrot is fifteen inches. The
bill is reddish: orbits black: head and throat dark blue, with a
mixture of lighter blue feathers: back part of the head green;
towards the throat yellow green: back and wings green: prime
quills dusky, barred with yellow: breast red, mixed with yellow:
belly of a fine blue: thighs green and yellow: tail cuneiform;
the two middle feathers green; the others the same, but bright
yellow on the outer edges: legs dusky. Inhabits Botany Bay in New
Holland.” Latham’s Synopsis, vol. i. p. 213.
To this account little need be added, except that in our
present specimens the parts there said to be blue are rather a
bright lilac: the bill is a deep orange; and there are red spots
on the back between the wings, and a few near the vent
feathers.
Blue-bellied Parrot
TABUAN PARROT. Order and Genus the same. Species XVI. A
Variety.
The bird here represented has been seen by Mr. Latham, and was
by him referred to this species; of which however it seems a very
remarkable variety: The prevalent colour of the head, neck and
breast, being, instead of a deep crimson or purplish red, as in
his description and plate, as well as in a fine specimen now in
his own collection, a very bright scarlet: the blue mark across
the lower part of the neck appears the same; but the blue
feathers in the wings are entirely wanting; and the bill is not
black. (See Latham’s Synopsis, vol. i. p. 214.)
The specimen here delineated may be thus described.
Length twenty-four inches: bill brown, the upper mandible
tinged with red: the head, neck, and all the under parts of the
body a bright scarlet: the back and wings a fine green. On the
lower part of the neck, between that and the back, a crescent of
blue: the tail long and cuneiform, most of its feathers deep
blue: the legs ash coloured: on the upper part of the wings a
narrow line of lighter green.
Tabuan Parrot
PENNANTIAN PARROT. Order and Genus the same. Species, 134.
Size of the scarlet lory, length sixteen inches: the bill of a
blueish horn colour; the general colour of the plumage scarlet;
the base of the under mandible and the chin covered with rich
blue feathers: the back black, the feathers edged with crimson:
wings blue, down the middle much paler than the rest: the quills
and tail black, the feathers edged outwardly with blue, and three
of the outer tail feathers, from the middle to the end, of a pale
hoary blue: the tail is wedge shaped, the middle feathers eight
inches in length; the outermost, or shortest, only four: the
bottom of the thighs blue, legs dusky, claws black.
This beautiful bird is not unfrequent about Port Jackson, and
seems to correspond greatly with the Pennantian Parrot, described
by Mr. Latham in the supplement to his General Synopsis of Birds,
p. 61. differing in so few particulars, as to make us suppose it
to differ only in sex from that species.
Pennantian Parrot
PACIFIC PAROQUET. Order and Genus the same. Species L VI. A
new variety.
Mr. Latham’s description is this:
“Length twelve inches, bill of a silvery blue; end black: in
some, the forehead and half the crown; in others, the forehead
only, of a deep crimson: behind each eye a spot of the same
colour: on each side of the vent a patch of the same: the plumage
in general of a dark green, palest on the under parts: the tail
is cunei-form; the two middle feathers are five inches and an
half in length; the outer ones two inches and an half; upper
parts of it the same green with the body; beneath ash colour: the
outer edge of the wings, as far as the middle of the quills, deep
blue; the ends of the quills dusky: legs brown: claws black.”
Latham’s Synopsis, vol. I. p. 252.
The variety here represented has a brown bill, tinged with red
at the end, and a cap of azure blue at the back of the head,
interspersed with a few small feathers of a yellowish green; the
top of the wings is of a yellow hue, and there are no blue
feathers in the wings.
Pacific Parrakeet
THE SACRED KING’S FISHER. Order of Birds II. Pies. Genus
XXIII. Species 12.
The following description is extracted from Mr. Latham’s
Synopsis of Birds, vol. ii. p. 623. The specimen here
represented, being the same as his fourth variety of that species
marked D.
“This in size is rather less than a blackbird: the bill is
black; the lower mandible yellowish at the base: head, back,
wings, and tail, blue tinged with green: the under parts of the
body white, extending round the middle of the neck like a collar:
legs blackish.”
To which account we may add, that the bill is very strong at
the base, and sharp at the point; that the feathers immediately
above the bill are tinged with yellow; and that the toes, as in
most of this species, are three before and one behind.
Sacred Kings-fisher
SUPERB WARBLER, MALE. Birds, Order III. Passerine. Genus XLI.
Warbler. Species 137. A new variety.
“The length of this beautiful species is five inches and a
half: the bill black: the feathers of the head are long, and
stand erect like a full crest; from the forehead to the crown
they are of a bright blue; from thence to the nape, black like
velvet: through the eyes from the bill, a line of black; beneath
the eye springs a tuft of the same blue feathers; beneath these
and on the chin, it is of a deep blue almost black, and feeling
like velvet: on the ears is another patch of blue, and across the
back part of the head a band of the same, (in some specimens, the
patches of blue under the eye and on the ear unite together, and
join with the band at the nape, as in the plate*) the whole
giving the head a greater appearance of bulk than is natural: the
hind part of the neck and upper parts of the body and tail, deep
blue black; the under, pure white: wings, dusky; shafts of the
quills chesnut: the tail, two inches and a quarter long, and
cuneiform; the two outer feathers very short: legs dusky brown:
claws black.” Latham’s Synopsis, vol. iv. p. 501.
[* Latham’s Synopsis, vol. iv. pl. 53.]
The disposition of the blue is found to differ in most of the
specimens. In the present variety, the whole head is enveloped in
blue, which terminates in an irregularly waving line, and is
continued below the eye in a broad band, edged in the same
manner, and running almost to a point, as low as the bottom of
the neck on each side; but there is no band continued round the
neck, which, both above and below, is of the deep blue like
velvet, mentioned by Mr. Latham. Some feathers of a very bright
orange lie immediately under that blue, and above the wings*.
[* The Specimens from which Mr. Latham took his descriptions
were met with at Van Diemen’s Land, the most southern part of New
Holland.]
Male Superb Warbler
SUPERB WARBLER, Female.
When Mr. Latham’s Synopsis was published, the female of this
species was entirely unknown; and it was conjectured by that
author that the disposition of the blue might possibly mark the
sexes. The female is now discovered to be entirely destitute of
all the fine blue colours, both pale and dark, by which the male
is adorned, except that there is a very narrow circle of azure
round each eye, apparently on the skin only: all the upper
feathers consist of shades of brown, and the whole throat and
belly is pure white. Except from the shape and size, this bird
would not be suspected at first sight to belong to the same
species as the male: the epithet of superb applies very ill to
the female.
Female Superb Warbler
CASPIAN TERN. Birds, Order IX. Webfooted. Genus LXXXVIII.
Species I. Variety B.
Mr. Latham’s description is as follows.
“Length nineteen or twenty inches: bill three inches, stout
and of a pale yellow: nostrils pervious: the crown of the head
black; the feathers longish, and forming a kind of pensile crest
at the nape; the rest of the head, neck, and under parts of the
body, white: back and wings pale cinereous grey: quills grey,
with the ends dusky; the inner webs, half way from the base,
white: tail grey, forked; the end half of the other feathers
white; the last is exceeded by the first an inch: legs black.
Supposed to inhabit China; seen also, or very similar, from the
Friendly Isles; also found at Hapaee, one of the Sandwich
Islands.” Syn. Vol. vi. p. 351.
NORFOLK ISLAND PETREL. Order IX. Web-Footed. Genus Xc.
Length sixteen inches, bill one inch and an half long, black,
and very hooked at the tip: the head as far as the eyes, the chin
and throat, waved, brown and dusky white: the rest of the body on
the upper parts of a sooty brown, the under of a deep ash colour;
the inner part of the quills, especially next the base, very
pale, nearly white, and the wings, when closed, exceed the tail
by about an inch: the tail is much rounded in shape, and consists
of twelve feathers, of the same colour as the upper parts of the
body: the legs are pale yellow, the outer toe black the whole
length, the middle one half way from the tip, the webs also
correspond, the outer one being black, except just at the base;
and the inner one black for about one third from the end: the
claws black; the spur, which serves in place of a back toe, is
also black.
This inhabits Norfolk Island, and burrows in the sand like a
rabbit, lying hid in the holes throughout the day, and coming out
of evenings in quest of food. This bird appears to differ so very
little from the dark grey Petrel of Cook’s Voyage, vol. i. p.
258. that it is not improbable it may prove to be the same
species. This is described in the General Synopsis of Birds, vol.
vi. p. 399. under the name of Grey Petrel; as also another
species, in p. 400. by the name of White-breasted Petrel,
differing only in the breast from our specimen.
Norfolk Island Petrel
BRONZE-WINGED PIGEON. Order IV. Columbine. Genus XLVI.
Size of a large dove-house pigeon: general colour of the
plumage ash-coloured, brown on the upper parts, the feathers
margined with pale rufous; the under parts pale ash-colour, with
very pale margins: the wing coverts are much the same colour as
the back, but the greater ones, or lower series, have each of
them a large oval spot of bronze on the outer webs near the ends,
forming together, when the wings are closed, two bars of the most
brilliant and beautiful bronze, changing into red, copper, and
green, in different reflections of light: several of the feathers
also among the other coverts have the same spots on them, but are
irregularly placed: the quills are brown, with the inner webs,
from the middle to the base, pale rufous; as are the sides of the
body and all the under wing coverts: the tail consists of sixteen
feathers; the two middle ones are brown, the others pale lead, or
dove colour, with a bar of black near the tips: the bill is of a
dull red: the forehead very pale, nearly white, passing a little
way under the eye: the chin and throat pale grey: the legs are
red.
This bird inhabits Norfolk Island; and is clearly a
non-descript species.
Bronze-winged Pigeon
WHITE-FRONTED HERON. Order VII. Cloven-footed. Genus LXV.
This is little more than half the size of the common Heron:
length 28 inches: the general colour of the plumage is bluish
ash, inclining to lead colour: top of the head black, and a
trifle crested; the forehead, sides of the head, chin, and throat
white, passing downwards, and finishing in a point about the
middle of the neck before: on the lower part of the neck the
feathers are long and loose, and of a pale rufous cinnamon
colour; all the under parts of the body also incline to this last
colour, but are much paler: the quills and tail are dark lead
colour, nearly black: on the back the feathers are long and
narrow, and hang part of the way on the tail: the bill is four
inches long, and black; but the base half of the under mandible
is yellowish: the legs are formed as in other herons, of a
yellowish brown colour, and the claws are black.
This bird was sent from Port Jackson in New Holland, and as it
has not been noticed by any author, we consider it as a new
species.
White-fronted Heron
WATTLED BEE-EATER. Order II. Pies. Genus XXVI.
The size of this bird is nearly that of a cuckow: length
fourteen inches and a half: the bill one inch long, and of nearly
the same shape and size as in the Poe Bird; the colour black: the
general colour of the plumage is brown, palest on the under
parts; most of the feathers are pointed in shape, and have a
streak of white down the middle: the fore part of the head, as
far as the eyes, is smooth, but the rest of the head appears
full, the feathers being longer: from the gape of the bill a
broad streak of silvery white passes under the eye, and beneath
this, on each side of the throat, hangs a pendulous wattle, about
half an inch in length, and of an orange colour: the wings, when
closed, reach about one third on the tail, which is about half
the length of the bird, and cuneiform in shape: both the quills
and tail feathers are of a darker brown than the rest of bird,
and have the tips white: the middle of the belly is yellow: the
legs are of a pale brown, the hind toe very stout, and the outer
toe connected to the middle one as far as the first joint.
The above inhabits New Holland; it was received from Port
Jackson, and is no doubt a non-descript species.
Wattled Bee-eater
PSITTACEOUS HORNBILL. Order II. Pies. Genus VIII.
The bird is about the size of a crow: the total length two
feet three inches: the bill is large, stout at the base, much
curved at the point, and channelled on the sides; the colour pale
brown, inclining to yellow near the end: the nostrils are quite
at the base, and are surrounded with a red skin, as is the eye
also, on the upper part: the head, neck, and under parts of the
body are pale blue-grey; the upper parts of the body, wings, and
tail, ash colour; and most of the feathers are tipt with dusky
black, forming bars of that colour across the wings: the wings,
when closed, reach to near three-quarters of the length of the
tail: the tail itself is long, and cuneiform, the two middle
feathers measuring eleven inches, and the outer one on each side
little more than seven; a bar of black crosses the whole near the
end, and the tips of all the feathers are white: the legs are
short and scaly, and the toes placed two forwards, and two
backwards, as in those of the toucan or parrot genus: the colour
of legs and claws black.*
[* Mr. Latham, who has been kind enough to give his sentiments
on this occasion, is of opinion that this bird does not strictly
belong to any of the present established genera. The make indeed
is altogether that of an hornbill, and the edges of the mandible
are smooth, but the toes being placed two forwards and two
backwards, seem to rank it with the Parrots or Toucans; and it
has been unlucky that in the specimen from which the description
was taken, the tongue was wanting, which might in a great measure
have determined the point: but the inducement for placing it with
the hornbills has had the greater weight, as not a single species
of the toucan tribe has yet been met with in that part of the
world.]
This bird was killed at Port Jackson, and we believe it to be
hitherto non-descript.
Psittaceous Hornbill
Such is the account of the birds of which drawings or
specimens have been obtained from Port Jackson or from Norfolk
Island. Wild ducks, teal, quails, and other common species are
numerous in both places, and the variety, as well as number of
the small birds is considerable. Birds of the Cassowary or Emu
kind have very frequently been seen; but they are so shy, and run
so swiftly, that only one has yet been killed. That bird was shot
near the camp, while Governor Phillip was absent on his first
expedition to Broken Bay, and was thought by him to differ
materially both from the ostrich and cassowary; the skin was sent
over, but at the time when this sheet was printed off, had not
been stuffed, or put into form. Should it, on examination,
exhibit any remarkable peculiarities, we shall endeavour to
obtain a description of it, to subjoin at the conclusion of this
volume.
Since stating the dimensions of the kanguroo, in page 106,
Lord Sydney has received from Governor Phillip, a male of a much
larger size, which measures as follows.
The above is the largest kanguroo that has yet been seen, and
there is every reason to believe that even this had not nearly
attained its full growth.
Lieutenant Shortland describes them as feeding in herds of
about thirty or forty, and assures us, that one is always
observed to be apparently upon the watch, at a distance from the
rest.
Skeleton of the Head of the Kanguroo and Vulpine
Opossum
Chapter XVI.
PAPERS RELATIVE TO THE SETTLEMENT AT PORT JACKSON.
These artificers were employed on the representation of the
Lieutenant-Governor to Governor Phillip, that it was impossible
to erect the barracks necessary for the officers and men of the
detachment, without employing such artificers for that purpose as
could be found among themselves. It was at the same time
represented, that these men could not properly be retained at
such work, unless they were to be paid in the customary manner of
paying all troops employed on extra works for the public service:
and more especially, as it was known that the artificers taken
from the ships of war and transports were to be paid for all work
done on shore.
Governor Phillip agreed entirely as to the necessity of
employing the artificers, and with respect to their pay, had no
doubt that the matter must be decided by custom: In consequence
of which he issued an order for that purpose on the 17th of May,
1788.
No. III.
The Right Hon. the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in a
letter, dated the 8th of October, 1786, addressed to the
commanding officers of each division of the marines, directed
them to signify to such marines as would make a voluntary tender
of their service for Botany Bay, that they should at the
expiration of their station of three years be entitled to their
discharge on their return to England, provided their good
behaviour during this service should have merited such marks of
favour: Or that, if they preferred it, they should at the time of
relief be discharged in New South Wales, and permitted to settle
there. In consequence of this, at the date of the following
paper, the question was put by the Lieutenant Governor to all the
officers and men, whether they chose to remain in the country,
either as soldiers or settlers. Before this question was asked,
Major Ross applied to Governor Phillip to know what encouragement
Government held out to those who should wish to remain in either
capacity. To this application it was answered by the Governor,
that the proper instructions and authorities for giving every
reasonable encouragement to such of the military and others as
should be desirous to remain in New South Wales, and for making
grants of land, were to be sent from England as soon as
Government being sufficiently informed of the actual state of the
country, and the quality of the soil, at and near the settlement,
could determine what was the most eligible mode of granting the
lands.
Those documents having been received, the amplest powers are
now to be sent out to Governor Phillip, that he may make such
grants and give such encouragement as may be proportioned to the
merits of those who apply, and satisfactory to every
individual.
The following list exhibits the result of the question put by
the Lieutenant Governor to the officers and men of the marines,
concerning their desire to return, or to remain in New South
Wales.
LIST of such OFFICERS, NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS, DRUMMERS,
and PRIVATES, as are desirous of remaining in this Country, after
the time when their Lordships the Commissioners of the Admiralty
intended to relieve the Detachment, as expressed in their Letter
of the 8th October, 1788.
NEW SOUTH WALES, 1st October, 1788.
Names and quality. Desirous of remaining in this country.
Watkin Tench, Capt. Lieutenant, as a soldier for one tour more
of three years.
George Johnstone, First Lieutenant, having been so short a
time in this country, cannot determine whether he would wish to
remain or not, as to settling can say nothing.
John Johnstone, ditto, having been so short a time in this
country, cannot determine whether he would wish to remain another
tour or not, as to settling can say nothing, till he knows on
what terms.
James Maitland Shairp, ditto, being so short a time in the
country, he cannot yet judge whether he would wish to remain or
not another tour, as to settling, until he knows the terms and
nature of the grants, cannot determine.
William Dawes, Second Lieutenant, as a soldier for one tour
more of three years.
William Baker, Serjeant, as a soldier.
George Flemming, private, as a soldier for three years more.
Isaac Tarr, ditto, as a settler.
James Manning, as a soldier.
All the officers, non-commissioned officers, drummers, and
private men of the detachment, whose names are not expressed in
the above list, wish to return to England, at the time proposed
by their Lordship’s letter of the 8th October, 1786, or as soon
after as their Lordships may find it convenient.
R. ROSS, MAJOR.
No. IV.
AN ACCOUNT OF PROVISIONS REMAINING IN HIS MAJESTY’S STORES, AT
SYDNEY COVE, NEW SOUTH WALES, 30TH SEPTEMBER, 1788.
No. V.
Chapter XVII.
Nautical directions, and other detached remarks, by Lieutenant
Ball, concerning Rio de Janeiro, Norfolk Island, Ball Pyramid,
and Lord Howe Island.
Some notice has already been taken in the preceding sheets of
Rio de Janeiro, Norfolk Isle, and Lord Howe Isle; but since they
were committed to the press, the following particulars respecting
those places have very obligingly been communicated to the
editor, by Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball. As these remarks are
the result of minute observation, they cannot fail of being
useful and interesting to the seafaring reader, which, it is
presumed, will be a sufficient apology for giving them a place
here.
There is no danger in going up the harbour to Rio de Janeiro
but what may easily be seen. The course up the harbour is
north-west by north; you anchor before the town in seventeen
fathoms water, over a muddy bottom; the middle of the town
bearing west by north, west, or west by south, about a mile and
an half distant from the watering place, and the Fort Saint Cruz
bearing south-east. No pilot is necessary; the soundings a-breast
of St. Cruz Fort are twenty-two fathoms, and shoal gradually to
seventeen fathoms, where the ships moored a-breast of the town.
The tide flows two hours and thirty minutes at full and change,
and rises in general about eight feet. In going into the harbour,
it is necessary to keep the starboard shore best aboard, as the
tide sets on the other side, till you get nearly a-breast of St.
Cruz Fort, and in that situation you must be on your guard, if
going in with the flood, as the passage is narrow: and there are
whirlpools in many places, which will take all command from the
rudder. Water is procured at a pipe, by which it is conveyed from
a fountain situated in the large square near the principal
landing place, which is opposite the palace. This pipe is
continued down to the waterside, and you fill your casks in
boats: the water is so plentiful, that a fleet might be supplied
in a short time.
Bullocks, sheep, and Portugal wine, may be had here in plenty;
there is also an excellent market for poultry and vegetables
every day; in short, every refreshment that is necessary for a
fleet may be procured in great abundance, and very cheap.
The whole harbour, as well as the town, is defended by a
number of strong fortifications; and as far as Lieutenant Ball
had an opportunity of examining the harbour, the draft of it
published in the East India chart is very true, the soundings
right, and the bearings very accurate.
Their trade is chiefly to Portugal, and consists of bullion,
indigo, sugar, rum, tobacco, brazil wood, whale-oil, whale bone,
spermaceti, etc. and of late years diamonds and many other
valuable commodities.
In approaching Norfolk Island there is no danger: Lieut. Ball
anchored in nineteen fathoms, over a bottom of coarse sand and
coral, the north-east end of the island bearing west south-west
quarter west; the easternmost rocks east south-east, about a mile
distant from the nearest shore: at this place Capt. Cook landed.
Ships have anchored also at south end of the isle in twenty-two
fathoms, the westernmost point of Phillip Isle south south-east,
the body of Nepean’s Isle east north-east half east, and the
south point of Norfolk Isle north-east by east. They anchored
again in eighteen fathoms, over a bottom of sand and coral, the
west point of Phillip Isle bearing south, the easternmost point
of it south south-east half east, and the south point of Norfolk
Isle north-east. The pine trees on this island are of an immense
size, measuring from twenty to twenty-seven and even thirty feet
in girth, and so tall that it was not easy to form any exact
judgment of their height. This place affords vast numbers of
cabbage trees, and amazing quantities of fish may be procured on
the banks that lie on the west side of the small island; those
they got on board the Supply were of the snapper kind, and very
good, yet they were caught in such abundance that many of the
people were as much satiated with them as the sailors are with
cod on the banks of Newfoundland.
The only places where it was found practicable to land was
a-breast of their first station (which is the place described by
Captain Cook, and where the people landed with the utmost
difficulty,) and at Sydney Bay on the south end of the isle, the
outer breaker off the westernmost point in sight bearing
north-west by west half west.
Map and View of Lord Howe Island
Lord Howe Island was discovered by Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird
Ball, Commander of his Majesty’s tender Supply, on the 17th
February, 1788, and was so named by him, in honour of the Right
Honourable Lord Howe. At the same time he observed a remarkably
high pyramidical rock at a considerable distance from the island,
which has been named Ball’s Pyramid; from a correct drawing of
this rock and others near it, the annexed engraving was
taken.
Ball’s Pyramid
There is no danger in approaching Lord Howe island, the Supply
anchored there in thirteen fathoms, sand and coral; but there
lies about four miles from the south-west part of the pyramid, a
dangerous rock, which shows itself a little above the surface of
the water, and appears not to be larger than a boat. Lieutenant
Ball had no opportunity of examining whether there is a safe
passage between them or not. The island is in the form of a
crescent, the convex side towards the north-east. Two points at
first supposed to be separate islands, proved to be high
mountains on its south-west end, the southernmost of which was
named Mount Gower, and the other Mount Lidgbird; between these
mountains there is a very deep valley, which obtained the name of
Erskine Valley; the south-east point was called Point King, and
the north-west point, Point Phillip. The land between these two
points forms the concave side of the island facing the
south-west, and is lined with a sandy beach, which is guarded
against the sea by a reef of coral rock, at the distance of half
a mile from the beach, through which there are several small
openings for boats; but it is to be regretted that the depth of
water within the reef no where exceeds four feet. They found no
fresh water on the island, but it abounds with cabbage-palms,
mangrove and manchineal trees, even up to to the summits of the
mountains. No vegetables were to be seen. On the shore there are
plenty of ganets, and a land-fowl, of a dusky brown colour, with
a bill about four inches long, and feet like those of a chicken;
these proved remarkably fat, and were very good food; but we have
no further account of them. There are also many very large
pigeons, and the white birds resembling the Guinea fowl, which
were found at Norfolk Island, were seen here also in great
numbers. The bill of this bird is red, and very strong, thick,
and sharp-pointed. Innumerable quantities of exceeding fine
turtle frequent this place in the summer season, but at the
approach of winter they all go to the northward. There was not
the least difficulty in taking them. The sailors likewise caught
plenty of fish with a hook and line.
Lieutenant Shortland
Chapter XVIII.
July 1788 to August 1788
Concise account of Lieutenant Shortland–His various
services–Appointed agent to the transports sent to New South
Wales–Ordered by Governor Phillip to England, by
Batavia–Journal of his voyage–New discoveries.
We have been induced to subjoin in this place a concise
account of Lieutenant Shortland, as well because his experience
as an officer has been great, as from the consideration that his
journal has been deemed, by those who best know its value, of
very serious importance.
Lieutenant John Shortland very early in life had a strong
predilection for the Navy, and in 1755, at the age of sixteen, he
entered into his Majesty’s service, on board the Anson, a sixty
gun ship, which went out in the fleet under the command of
Admiral Boscawen. On the Banks of Newfoundland this fleet fell in
with, and took the Alcide and Ly’s, two French ships, of
seventy-four guns. On his return from this expedition, he went on
board the Culloden, a seventy-four gun ship, and was in the fleet
under Admiral Byng, off Minorca. Shortly afterwards, he went into
the Hampton Court, commanded by Capt. Harvey, in which ship he
was present at the taking of the Foudroyant and Arpè. On
his arrival in England, he went on board the Vanguard, Commodore
Swanton, to the West Indies, in the fleet under Admiral Rodney,
and was present at the reduction of Martinique, the Grenades, and
the other islands which were then captured. In 1763, he was
promoted to the rank of Lieutenant by Admiral Swanton; since
which period he has always been employed in active and important
services. During the late war, and for some time afterwards, he
was chiefly employed in going to and from America, except in the
year 1782, when he was appointed to command the transports with
the 97th regiment on board, destined for the relief of Gibraltar,
under convoy of his Majesty’s ships Cerberus and Apollo: he was
not only successful in getting all the transports in safe, but he
also landed the men without any loss.
On Lieutenant Shortland’s return home from this service, in
endeavouring to get through the Gut of Gibraltar in the night, he
was chased by a squadron of Spanish frigates, who took three of
the transports in company, but he was so fortunate as to escape
in the Betsey transport, and arrived safe in England, without
either loss or damage. In the year 1786, he was appointed Agent
to the transports sent by Government to New South Wales, at which
place he arrived in January, 1788. After remaining six months at
the new settlement at Port Jackson, he was ordered to England by
way of Batavia, by his Excellency Governor Phillip, who honoured
him with the official dispatches for Government, and he arrived
in England on the 29th of May, 1789.
This summary recapitulation of Mr. Shortland’s services
sufficiently points out his merit and ability as an experienced
seaman, without any further elogium; which, it were were wanted,
might be abundantly supplied from the subsequent account of his
passage from Port Jackson to Batavia.
The Alexander, the Friendship, the Prince of Wales, and the
Borrowdale, were got ready in the beginning of July, 1788, to
sail for England, under the care and conduct of Lieutenant
Shortland; at which time Governor Phillip took the opinions of
the masters of those transports concerning their route. The
season was thought to be too far advanced for them to attempt the
southern course, by Van Diemen’s Land; and the passage by Cape
Horn was objected to by the Governor. It was therefore agreed
unanimously that they should go to the northward, either through
Endeavour Straits, or round New Guinea. Unfortunately the ships
were ill prepared to encounter the difficulties, which were to be
expected in every mode of return; their complement of men was
small, only six to an hundred tons, officers included; they were
without a surgeon, and unprovided with those articles which have
been found essential to the preservation of health in long
voyages, such as bore-cole, sour-crout, portable soup, and the
other antiseptics recommended by the Royal Society. It cannot
therefore be wondered, though it must be deeply regretted, that
the sailors should have suffered so dreadfully from the scurvy,
in the length of time necessary for exploring a passage through
an unknown sea perplexed with islands, where they were destitute
of assistance from charts, or observations of former navigators;
and were not fortunate enough to obtain a supply of salutary
refreshments.
14 July 1788
Lieutenant Shortland, in the Alexander transport, sailed out
of the harbour of Port Jackson, on Monday, July 14, 1788,
directing his course to the east-north-east, with intention to
touch at Lord Howe Island, and there to appoint each ship a place
of rendezvous in case of separation. This necessary step, which
ought to have been previously taken, had been prevented by the
hurry of preparation; the Alexander not having been able to join
the other transports till the evening before their departure.
Even then, the boats, booms, and spare anchors, were stowed loose
between decks, in a manner which must have produced the most
dangerous consequences, had the ship been exposed in that
condition to the heavy sea which it was likely she would meet
with off the shore. To the very last moment, therefore, the men
and officers were most busily employed in providing against this
danger; and as soon as the weather appeared tolerably favourable
for working out of the harbour, Lieutenant Shortland made the
signal to the masters of the other transports to get under way,
without waiting for his ship. When the transports had cleared the
harbour they were obliged to carry a press of sail in order to
get off the coast, the vessels being very light, and a powerful
swell then setting in upon the shore. The wind was at the same
time strong from the south-east, and continued so for two days,
with the same heavy swell, which made it very difficult to keep
the ships off shore.
Chart of the Track of the Alexander
16 July 1788
At eight, A. M. on the 16th of July, the rocks off the
entrance of Port Stephens bore north-west by west distant three
leagues. Lieutenant Shortland very much regretted that this place
had not been surveyed; had it been known to afford safe
anchorage, it would have been much more prudent to put in there
and wait for a change of wind, than to attempt keeping the sea in
circumstances so very unfavourable, with ships so little
calculated to run along a great extent of lee shore. This day the
Prince of Wales being two or three miles to the leeward, the
signal was made for her to tack into the fleet. At nine in the
evening the wind coming to the east-south-east, Lieutenant
Shortland fired a gun, and made the signal to veer ship and sail
on the other tack. At this time the Prince of Wales was about
five miles on the lee bow of the Alexander, and the Borrowdale
and Friendship close in company; but by twelve at midnight the
Friendship only was in sight. At two, the wind shifting again to
the south-south-east, the signal was once more made to veer ship,
and change the tack, as lying off east would clear the coast; a
strong current setting to the southward.
19 July 1788
Lieutenant Shortland, having now lost sight of the Prince of
Wales and Borrowdale, was fully determined to go to Lord Howe
Island to wait a day or two for them, expecting that they might
probably touch there with similar intentions. On the 19th,
therefore, he steered a direct course for that island, with a
strong gale at south-west, but as this wind, which was exactly
favourable to the intended course of the voyage, and made the
anchoring place off Lord Howe Island a lee shore, continued
unvaried, and blew very hard on the 20th, it appeared best to
relinquish the design of calling there. At two in the afternoon,
therefore, Lieutenant Shortland again altered his course and
sailed north-east by north. The Prince of Wales and Borrowdale
transports, were seen no more throughout the voyage, and it has
since been known that they took another course; but the
Friendship continued close in company with the Alexander. About
noon this day, the men at the mast head discovered a very
extensive shoal on the larboard beam, bearing from north by west
to north by south, distant between two and three leagues. It
trended north by east and south by west, and was judged to be in
length about three leagues and a half. The breadth could not be
ascertained, for, while the ship ran along it, the sand bank was
seen to extend as far as the eye could discern. It lies in
latitude 29°. 20′. south, and in longitude 158°. 48′.
east, and was named by Lieutenant Shortland, Middleton
Shoals.
21 July 1788
At ten in the morning, on Monday July 21, the master of the
Friendship went on board the Alexander, and Carteret’s harbour in
New Ireland, was appointed by Lieutenant Shortland as the place
of rendezvous. The same day, at half past five in the afternoon,
land was discovered, bearing from south-west by west, to west
half south, at the distance of about eight leagues. It trended to
the north-north-west, and was about six or seven leagues in
length, the land very high, with a remarkable peak, which bore
south-south-west. This island was now named Sir Charles
Middleton’s Island: It lies in latitude 28°. 10. south, and
in longitude 159°. 50. east. Lieutenant Shortland thinks it
probable that the reef seen on the preceding day may be connected
with this island, as it trended in a right direction for it; but
it must, in that case, be of very great extent. The island was
still in sight on the morning of the 22d.
24 July 1788
On Thursday July 24th, they had an accurate observation of the
sun and moon to determine the longitude, and found the effect of
a current to have been so great as to set the ship two degrees of
longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning. The longitude of
Sir Charles Middleton’s Island must therefore be corrected by
that observation, and placed considerably further to the east.
The latitude may be depended upon, as the bearing was observed
when the sun was on the meridian.
27 July 1788
Many land birds being seen on the 27th and 28th, when the ship
was by reckoning and observation near the north-west end of New
Caledonia, Lieutenant Shortland very reasonably concluded that he
must have passed very close to that land, though it did not
happen to be discerned: probably it is low at that extremity.
31 July 1788
At noon, on Thursday the 31st, land was discovered, bearing
from north half west to east-north-east, and distant about five
or six leagues. As the ship was now in latitude 10°. 52′.
south, Lieutenant Shortland at first conjectured it might be
Egmont Island, which was seen by Capt. Carteret, notwithstanding
a considerable difference in longitude, which might be accounted
for from the effect of currents, as they had been for some time
very strong. The longitude laid down by Captain Carteret was
164°. 49′. east; that of the Alexander at this time about
161°. 11′. It proved however that the difference was real,
and that this was another island. Lieutenant Shortland now kept a
north-west course, in which direction the land trended. He ran
along the coast about six or seven leagues, and found it formed
into an island by two points, the south-east of which he called
Cape Sydney, the north-west, Cape Phillip. Having passed this
point, he continued steering in a north-west direction till about
seven o’clock the same afternoon, when the men who were reefing
the top-sails for the night, discovered land bearing exactly in
the ship’s course. On receiving this intelligence he immediately
brought to, with the ship’s head off from the land, and gave a
signal for the Friendship to do the same. They lay to all night,
and the next morning were surprised with the sight of a most
mountainous coast, bearing from north-east by east to
west-north-west, about five or six leagues distant. This proved
sufficiently that the land seen the preceding day could not be
Egmont Island, and Lieutenant Shortland was inclined to think
that this was united to it. At six in the morning he bore away
west by north, and west by north half north, as the land trended,
running along the shore at five or six leagues distance. The most
eastern point of this land he called Cape Henslow, the most
western which was then in sight, Cape Hunter. Between these two
points the land is very singularly mountainous, the summits of
the mountains rising among the clouds to a prodigious height. It
may be known by one summit more elevated than the rest, which,
from being discovered on the first of August, was named Mount
Lammas, and is thought in height to equal, if not to exceed the
Peak of Teneriffe. This day the latitude was by observation
9°. 58′. south, and the longitude 160°. 21′. east. More
land still continued to open to the west-north-west, and the same
course was therefore kept at an equal distance from the shore
till three in the afternoon, when the water appearing suddenly of
a different colour, they brought to, and sounded, but found no
ground at 120 fathoms. At four, a part of the land which had the
appearance of a harbour, bore north-north-east distant seven
leagues. The land still continued mountainous, and at six o’clock
bore from north-east to north-west by west. The furthest land
then in sight appeared to be at the distance of about thirteen or
fourteen leagues, and was named Cape Marsh. At half past six the
ships were brought to, and lay to for the night, the weather
being very squally, with violent thunder, lightning, and
rain.
2 August 1788
Soon after five in the morning of August the 2d, the ships
made sail again, and bore away west by north, but the weather
being hazy, no land was then in sight; many flying fish were seen
at this time. At eleven, there being a prospect of clearer
weather, Lieutenant Shortland endeavoured to make the land again.
At noon the latitude was, by observation, 9°. 40′. south, and
the longitude 158°. 42′. east. Lieutenant Shortland continued
to steer north-west to discover whether he had reached the utmost
extent of the land, and at eight in the evening spoke to the
Friendship, and told the master that he intended to bring to at
nine.
3 August 1788
At three in the morning, on Sunday August 3, land was
discovered bearing from north-north-east to north-west, on which
the ships stood off again with a light air of wind. At six, the
land in sight appeared like several islands, and an endeavour was
made to pass between them to the north, but on approaching
sufficiently near, it was discovered that all these points were
joined together by a low neck of land covered with trees. As the
land rose in nine roundish points, which seamen call hummocks,
this place was named Nine Hummock Bay. At noon on this day, the
ship then standing to the south-west, in latitude 8°. 55′.
south, and longitude 158°. 14′. east, the extreme points of
land bore from east by north to west, when Lieutenant Shortland
named the western point Cape Nepean, and the eastern Cape Pitt.
The intermediate land may, he says, easily be known by the nine
hummocks, and the exact resemblance they bear to islands when
seen from the distance of five or six leagues. They had now light
airs and calm weather, but at two in the afternoon a breeze
sprung up from the eastward, and at four Cape Nepean bore
north-west, half west, distant five or six leagues. At six the
Alexander shortened sail, and stood off and on for the night
under double reefed top-sails, Lieutenant Shortland imagining
that he had reached the utmost extent of this land. At five, on
Monday morning, the 4th of August, he made sail again, and at six
a bluff point of the island bore north-north-west, distant five
or six leagues: this he called Point Pleasant. At noon the
latitude was by observation 8°. 54′. south, the longitude
154°. 44′. east. Point Pleasant then bore east by north; at
four, the most western point of land in sight, which was then
supposed to be the extreme point of the island, but proved not to
be so, bore north-west by north, distant four or five leagues.
From this mistake it was named Cape Deception.
Under the persuasion that he had reached the extremity of the
land, but desirous to ascertain that point, Lieutenant Shortland
kept the ships standing under an easy sail all night. Some
islands lying close to Cape Deception, and seeming to form a good
harbour, were called Hammond’s Isles. At day light on the 5th of
August, land was again discovered, bearing from east north-east
to west by north half north, and forming a very deep bay. This
land appeared in six hummocks, like islands, but was joined by a
low neck of sand. Not knowing how far it might trend to the
north-west, Lieutenant Shortland stood out to the south. At
eleven o’clock, the longitude was observed to be 157° 30′
east; and at noon the latitude was also determined by observation
to be 8° 44′ south. At the same time, Cape Deception bore
north-east four or five leagues distant; and two remarkable
hills, from their similiarity called the Two Brothers, forming
the most western point then in view, bore north-west half north,
distant ten leagues. At three in the afternoon, they bore away
for the two Brothers, which at six bore north-west by north,
distant seven leagues. At eight, the ships lay to for the
night.
6 August 1788
At five o’clock in the morning of Wednesday, August 6th, they
made sail again to the north-west; and at eight discerned a rock
which had exactly the appearance of a ship under sail, with her
top-gallant sails flying. So strongly were all the Alexander‘s
people prepossessed with this imagination, that the private
signal was made, under the supposition that it might be either
the Boussole or Astrolabe, or one of the two transports which had
parted from them on the coast of New South Wales. Nor was the
mistake detected till they approached it within three or four
miles. This rock bore from the Two Brothers south south-west,
distant one league.
Between ten and eleven, some canoes were seen with Indians in
them, who came close up to the ship without any visible
apprehension. Ropes were thrown to them over the stern, of which
they took hold, and suffered the ship to tow them along; in this
situation they willingly exchanged a kind of rings which they
wore on their arms, small rings of bone, and beads of their own
manufacture, for nails, beads, and other trifles, giving however
a manifest preference to whatever was made of iron. Gimlets were
most acceptable, but they were also pleased with nails, and
pieces of iron hoops. They dealt very fairly, not betraying the
least desire to steal or to defraud. But though they so readily
suffered themselves to be towed after the ship, they could not by
any means be prevailed upon to go along side, and whenever an
attempt was made to haul up a canoe by one of the ropes, the men
in it immediately disengaged themselves from that rope, and took
hold of another. At the same time they appeared extremely
desirous that our people should anchor on the coast, and go
ashore with them; and, by way of enticement, held up the rind of
an orange or lemon, the feathers of tame fowls, and other things,
signifying that they might be procured on shore. They presented
also to Lieutenant Shortland, a fruit, which he conceived to be
the bread-fruit; it was about the size of a small cocoa-nut,
brown on the outside and white within, and contained a kind of
soft pithy substance which stuck between the teeth, and was
rather troublesome to chew, besides three or four kernels not
unlike chesnuts, but very white. The leaves of the plantain
served the Indians to make boxes or small cases, of which every
man had one to contain his small rings and beads. At noon a point
of land which runs from the Two Brothers, and was now named Cape
Satisfaction, bore north north-east; and the rock which had been
mistaken for a ship was called the Eddystone, and bore north by
west, distant four leagues. The Eddystone bears from Cape
Satisfaction south south-west, distant two leagues. As the land
from Cape Satisfaction began to trend northward, Lieutenant
Shortland again entertained hopes of finding a passage.
It was understood from the natives that they called the island
from which they came, Simboo; for whenever an attempt was made to
put that question to them, they pointed to the land near Cape
Satisfaction, and uttered that word. Of these men, Lieutenant
Shortland remarks, that they were remarkably stout and well
built, from which appearance he very judiciously drew a
favourable conclusion with respect to the goodness and plenty of
their food. Their superiority over the New Hollanders in size and
strength, he says, was very striking. Their canoes, which
contained from six to fourteen men, seemed to be well put
together, the bows and stems very lofty, carved with various
figures, and stained with a kind of red paint; in a word, they
were to all appearance formed exactly upon the same model and
construction as those of Otaheite. The ornaments worn by the
inhabitants of Simboo were large rings of a white bone, one or
more of which every man had upon his wrist, and a shell with a
feather, which was tied upon the head. Lieutenant Shortland was
desirous to purchase one of their lances, but could not obtain
it. About two in the afternoon his visitors, finding perhaps that
they had followed the ship as far as they could venture to trust
themselves, left him, and made immediately for the shore. From
what was seen in the possession of these people, there can be no
doubt that their land produces cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas,
and most other vegetables of the Society and Friendly Isles. Nor
was it without the greatest regret that Lieutenant Shortland
declined the invitations of the natives, and proceeded without
touching for refreshments, which doubtless might have been
obtained in plenty; but the length and uncertainty of his passage
seemed to forbid the least delay; nor was it at this time
foreseen how much superior to every other consideration the
acquirement of a wholesome change of diet would be found. The bay
from which these men had come he named Indian Bay. At three P. M.
the longitude was, by lunar observation, 156° 55′ east; and
at six the furthest land in sight bore north, Cape Satisfaction
east by south half east, and the body of the land north-east,
distant five or six leagues. The furthest point of land north was
named Cape Middleton.
7 August 1788
After lying to in the night, the ships made sail again at four
in the morning of August 7th, and bore away to the north by west.
At five, they saw the land which they had left the preceding
night, and six or more small islands bearing from north-east to
west. These were called the Treasury Isles; they are moderately
high and seemed to be well clothed with trees and herbage. At
noon, the latitude was by observation 7° 24′ south, the
longitude 156° 30′ east; and the north-west extremity of the
land then in sight, which was named Cape Allen, bore east by
south, distant six leagues: Cape Middleton, south-east, distant
eight leagues. Off Cape Allen lies a small island, to which the
name of Wallis Island was given. At six in the afternoon the
extremes of the islands in sight bore from north-east by east to
west by north; and the entrance between two islands, which formed
a passage or strait, bore north by east, distant five or six
leagues.
The Alexander and the Friendship had now run from the latitude
of 10° 44′ south, and longitude 161° 30′ east, to the
latitude of 7° 10′ south, and longitude 156° 50′ east,
the whole way nearly in sight of land. As, therefore, proceeding
westward, to the south of the next land, might have entangled
them with New Guinea, Lieutenant Shortland determined to try the
passage which was now before him; and being very well convinced,
before it was dark, that the way was clear, kept under a
commanding sail all night. At ten o’clock in the evening, the
Alexander was nearly a-breast of the two points that form the
passage, and the soundings were very irregular, from ten to
thirty fathoms, on a soft, sandy bottom: the anchors were
therefore cleared, that they might immediately be dropped if it
should prove necessary.
8 August 1788
At two in the morning of August the 8th, a strong ripple of a
current was very plainly to be perceived; and by five the ship
had nearly cleared the straits. She had then the following
bearings: Cape Alexander, south-east; some islands and rocks that
lie off the most western island of those which form the straits,
west by south; and the remotest point in sight to the
north-westward, north-west by north, distant fourteen or fifteen
leagues. This point is remarkably high and forms the centre of a
large body of land, between the first and last point of the
straits on the western side, which were called Cape Friendship,
and Cape Le Cras.
These straits Lieutenant Shortland judged to be between four
and five leagues in length, and about seven or eight miles broad,
running in a north-west direction; and, conceiving himself to be
the first navigator who had sailed through them, he ventured to
give them the name of Shortland’s Straits. On comparing his
account with the narrative of M. Bougainville, which he had not
then by him, there seems to be reason to suspect that this is the
same passage through which that navigator sailed at the latter
end of June, 1768; and that the island supposed to be called
Simboo, is the same which was then named Choiseul Island. To
corroborate this suspicion, M. Bougainville’s description of the
canoes and persons of the natives agrees entirely, as far as it
goes, with that given by Mr. Shortland*. A small difference in
longitude affords the chief reason for doubting the identity of
the passage, which, should it be proved, will not detract at all
from the merit of the latter navigator, who proceeded entirely by
his own attention and sagacity, in a sea unknown to himself and
those who were with him, which, if not wholly unexplored, had
not, however, been surveyed before with equal minuteness of
observation.
[* Some of the vessels indeed were larger. “Il y avoit
vingt-deux hommes dans la plus grande, dans les moyennes, huit
ont dix, deux ou trois dans les plus petites. Ces pirogues
paroissoient bien faites; elles ont I’avant et I’amere fort
relévés, etc. Ils portent des bracelets, et des
plaques au front et sur le col. J’ignore de quelle matiere, elle
m’a paru etre blanche.” Boug. Chap. v. p. 264.]
Lieutenant Shortland now congratulated himself on having
cleared this large tract of land, which he had the greatest
reason to suppose united the whole way from the place at which he
first fell in with it; as in sailing at a very moderate distance
from the coast, he had made every effort in his power to find a
passage to the northward. A place called by one of the French
navigators, Port Surville, is probably a part of it, as well as
Choiseul Bay, but the points seen and described by the French
discoverers are very few; and for the knowledge of the form and
bearings of the rest of the coast, throughout the whole extent of
near three degrees of latitude, and full five of longitude, we
are indebted entirely to the researches of our own countryman, as
we are for the beautiful delineation of the whole coast, to the
care and ingenuity of his son, Mr. John George Shortland. The
only places in which Lieutenant Shortland suspected there might
possibly be a passage which had escaped his observation, was
between Cape Phillip and Cape Henslow, and again between the
capes Marsh and Pitt. The ascertaining of these matters he leaves
to other navigators, at the same time recommending the route he
took as the safest and most expeditious passage within his
knowledge from Port Jackson to China; Middleton Shoal, on the
coast of New South Wales, being the only place of danger he had
hitherto discovered. Should any objection be made to passing
through a strait, where a more open sea can be obtained, he would
recommend the much wider channel between Egmont Island and
Simboo, and not by any means the whole circuit to the east of the
New Hebrides. To the whole of this land, consisting of the two
principal islands on each side of the straits, and the Treasury
Isles between them, Lieutenant Shortland gave the name of New
Georgia. There is, indeed, an island of Georgia, to the east of
Staten Land, so named by Captain Cook in 1775: but between these,
it seems to be a sufficient distinction to call the one the Isle
of Georgia, and the other New Georgia. The land on the western
side of Shortland’s Straits, continued to be very high, and
extended as far as the eye could reach; from these circumstances,
and from the direction in which it trended, no doubt was
entertained of its joining that which was called by Captain
Carteret, Lord Anson’s Isle. With respect to the charts here
given of these discoveries, Lieutenant Shortland, though he
cannot, from the distance at which they were taken, presume to
vouch for the laying down of every single point, as if the coast
had undergone a regular survey, undertakes to promise, that they
are sufficiently accurate for the direction of any future
navigators; as he had, in the course of his progress along it,
many opportunities of taking lunar observations.
Shortland’s Chart of New Georgia
9 August 1788
At six in the afternoon of Saturday, August 9th, the extreme
point in sight of the high land to the westward of the passage,
bore south-west by south, distant twelve or fourteen leagues: and
two islands which the ship had just made, bore north-west by
north, distant five or six leagues. They are supposed to lie in
latitude 4° 50′ south, and longitude 156° 11′ east. At
day light on Sunday August 10th, Lieutenant Shortland set his
steering sails, and bore away to the north-west, in order to make
more distinctly the islands seen the preceding evening.
10 August 1788
At six in the morning, four were in sight, and bore
south-west, distant six leagues. It was at first thought that
they would prove to be the nine islands seen by Captain Carteret;
but as neither the number nor the longitude was found to
correspond, Lieutenant Shortland afterwards concluded they were
not the same; and determined, as the weather appeared squally and
unsettled, not to attempt pursuing the tract of that officer
through St. George’s Channel, but to go round New Ireland.
Chapter XIX.
August 1788 to February 1789
Appearance of the scurvy–The boats land at one of the Pelew
Islands–Account of the Natives who were seen, and conjectures
concerning them–Distresses–The Friendship cleared and
sunk–Miserable condition of the Alexander when she reached
Batavia.–Conclusion.
10 August 1788
Hitherto no difficulties had been encountered but such as
necessarily attend the exploring of new coasts, wherein the
anxiety is fully compensated by the satisfaction of becoming a
discoverer: but a dreadful scourge now hung over our navigators,
the severity of which cannot easily be conceived, even by those
who have been placed in similar scenes, so much did it exceed in
degree every thing of the same kind that has been usually
experienced. It was about this time, the 10th of August, that the
scurvy began to make its appearance, which, for want of the
proper remedies, increased to a malignity that was destructive of
many lives, rendered it necessary to sacrifice one of the ships,
and finally reduced the consolidated crews of both in the
remaining transport to such a state of weakness, that without
immediate assistance they must have perished even in port, or
would have been driven adrift again, from total inability to take
the necessary steps for their own preservation.
13 August 1788
On the thirteenth of August, five seamen of the Alexander were
already on the sick list, complaining of pains in the legs and
breast, with their gums so swelled, and their teeth so loose that
they could not without difficulty eat even flour or rice. The
weather was now very variable, often sultry, at other times
squally, with occasional showers. The ships were probably at no
great distance from some land, as birds were frequently seen in
great numbers; and on the 16th the Friendship made the signal for
seeing land, but it could not be descried from the Alexander.
Sharks were also caught with the hook, and now and then some
floating wood and vegetables were observed. On this day the two
transports passed the equator. On the 24th, Lieutenant Shortland
found by observation, that a current had set the ship to the west
north-west or north-west by west of her account, at the rate of
eleven miles a day since the 13th, when the last lunar
observation had been taken.
The scurvy gained ground rapidly in the Alexander,
notwithstanding the precautions of smoking the ship, washing with
vinegar, and distributing porter, spruce-beer, and wine among the
seamen. On the 2d of September six men and a boy, on the 5th
eight, and on the 8th ten, were disabled by it from performing
any duty. An increase of this kind, in the midst of all the
efforts that could be made to counteract the malignity of the
disorder, gave but too certain a prognostic of the ravages it was
afterwards to make.
10 September 1788
About noon on the 10th of September, the looming of land was
discerned to the westward, which an hour after was clearly
perceived, bearing west north-west, at the distance of six
leagues. As the ships were then in latitude about 6° 49′
north, and longitude 135° 25′ east, it is evident that this
must have been one of the Pelew Islands, lately so much
celebrated for their hospitable reception of Captain Wilson and
his crew. As the account of that voyage was not then published,
and Lieutenant Shortland had no charts with him that noticed
these islands, he concluded that he was among the most southern
of the New Carolines; but finding his longitude, from accurate
observation, to be more westerly than the situation of those
islands, he conceived their longitude to be laid down in the
charts erroneously.
11 September 1788
At six in the morning, September 11th, a small island not seen
before, bore west south-west, distant five leagues; and the wind
coming round to the south south-west, Lieutenant Shortland bore
away for the passage between the two islands. At nine, having
entered the passage, he founded and found thirteen fathoms, with
a fine sandy bottom, and a strong current setting through very
rapidly. Many cocoa-palms were seen on the shore, and excited an
earnest expectation of procuring effectual refreshment for the
sick: a boat from each of the ships was therefore manned and sent
out. While the boats were sounding a-head, many Indians
approached in their canoes, and by signs invited our people to
shore, giving them to understand that they might be supplied with
cocoa nuts and many other things; but when they attempted to land
at a place which had the appearance of a Morai or burying-place,
they would not suffer it, insisting that they should proceed
further one way or the other. In the mean time many persons of
both sexes swam off from shore, holding up bamboos* full of
water, which they imagined the ships to want. Mr. Sinclair, the
Master of the Alexander, being in the boat, brought the following
account of this expedition. “Finding I could not make them
understand that I wanted cocoa-nuts, and not water, I was
resolved to land, and therefore put on shore as soon as I found a
convenient place, amidst a concourse of between three and four
hundred people. I immediately fixed upon an old man, (whom, from
an ornament of bone upon his arm, I concluded to be a chief) and
made him a present of some nails and beads, which were accepted
with evident pleasure, and immediately conciliated his
friendship. This was a fortunate step, as he afterwards often
showed his authority by checking the most insolent of his people
when they pressed forward and endeavoured to steal whatever they
could seize. One seaman holding his cutlass rather carelessly had
it snatched from him, and the thief had so well watched his
opportunity, that he was almost out of sight before he was
distinguished. Notwithstanding the offers of the natives in the
canoes, I could not procure above thirty cocoanuts, and those
green; whether it was that the people did not comprehend my
signs, or that they were not inclined to carry on the traffic.
These islanders were well limbed men, moderately tall, with long
hair: many of them chewed the betel nut, and these were all
furnished with a small hollow stick, apparently of ebony, out of
which they struck a kind of powder like lime* Their arms were a
lance, and a kind of adze hung over the shoulder; some men
carrying one, and others two. These adzes were of iron, and
evidently of European manufacture. As the place where we landed
was very rocky and unpleasant for walking, when I found myself
unsuccessful in the chief object for which I was sent out, I
returned as expeditiously as I could. In return for my presents,
the old chief gave one to me which was not equally acceptable. It
was a mixture of fish, yams, and many other things, the odour of
which, probably from the staleness of the composition, was very
far from being agreeable. When we first landed, many of the
natives repeated the word, Englees, as if to enquire whether we
were of that nation, but when they understood that we were they
shook their heads and said, Espagnol: possibly, therefore, the
discovery of our nation might prevent them from being as
courteous on shore as they had been in their canoes.”
[* Bamboos were the only water vessels in the Pelew Islands.
See Wilson, chap. xxv. p. 312.]
[* This was the Chinam, or coral, burnt to lime, always used
with the betel. See Wilson’s Account, p. 27. The Areca is the
nut, the leaves only of betel are used. These are produced by
different plants.]
From some of the above circumstances it is undeniably evident
that these people have had intercourse with Europeans, and
probably with the Spaniards; and from the aversion which they
expressed to the English, it seems not an unfair conjecture that
this island might perhaps be Artingall, where our countrymen had
distinguished themselves five years before by the assistance they
gave to a hostile state*: but if so, their knowledge of the
Spaniards must have been posterior to the departure of the
English, who from the narrative must have been the first
Europeans seen there. Had the adventures of the Antelope’s crew
been then made known to the world, Lieutenant Shortland would
with joy have presented himself before the beneficent Abba
Thulle; and probably by obtaining a stock of fresh provisions and
vegetables might have preserved the lives of many of his
companions, and prevented the sufferings of the rest; but he was
not fortunate enough to know that so propitious a retreat was
within so small a distance.
[* It might, perhaps, be thought by some readers, that if this
had been the case they would now have endeavoured to take
revenge, but we find from Captain Wilson’s narrative, that all
animosity was dropped as soon as peace had been established with
the inhabitants of Pelew. See that work, Chap. xvi. p. 192.]
23 September 1788
His people were doomed to find their distresses augmented
instead of diminished. Towards the latter end of September, agues
and intermittent fevers began to prevail among them; the
proportion of those disabled by the scurvy was constantly great,
some deaths had happened, and the few men who still had health
enough to carry them with difficulty through the necessary duty,
were subject to the swelling of the legs, and harrassed by
violent pains in the breast. Hitherto the Friendship had been
much more happily circumstanced. On the 23d of September she was
spoken to, and had then only one man disabled by the scurvy: but
this advantage was of short duration, and the more rapid increase
of the malady made a fatal compensation for the greater delay of
its commencement.
27 September 1788-19 October 1788
On the 27th of September, about noon, the Alexander made the
land of Mindanao. It bore from west by north to north-west by
west, distant fourteen leagues. Part of it was remarkably high,
and at this distance appeared like a separate island, but on a
nearer approach was found to be all connected. On the 30th, about
four in the afternoon, Hummock Island bore west by south, half
south, distant six or seven leagues. In all this sea a strong
current constantly set the ship considerably to the south of her
reckoning. On the third of October the wind fell suddenly, and
the Alexander being in great danger of driving with the current
upon the shore of Karkalang or Sanguir Island, was obliged to
drop her anchor, which happily brought her up in forty fathoms
water. In the evening of the 17th, the Friendship actually struck
upon a reef on the coast of Borneo, when the Alexander
immediately cast anchor, and sent a boat to her assistance; but
at day light the next morning it appeared that she also lay so
encompassed with sand-keys and shoals, that it was difficult to
discern how she had sailed into that situation, or what track she
must pursue to be extricated from it. The Friendship, however,
fortunately got off from the reef without sustaining any material
damage: and in the morning of the nineteenth a narrow channel was
found, through which the Alexander with difficulty sailed out of
her dangerous station. Attempts had been made to weigh anchor the
preceding day, but the wind failing, the force of the currents
prevented it. The ships were at this time not more than eight
leagues from the coast of Borneo.
The scurvy had now brought both the crews to a most pitiable
situation. The Alexander had lost eight of her complement, and
was reduced to two men in a watch, only four seamen and two boys
being at all fit for duty: and though these were willing to do
their best, and further encouraged by the promise of double wages
when they should arrive at Batavia, their utmost exertions were
inadequate to the necessities of the ship, which they were hardly
able to put about; nor could they have weighed even a small
anchor had the currents obliged them to bring to again. The
Friendship had only five men not disabled, and was by no means
well provided with provisions. In this melancholy state of both
ships, the western monsoon being expected soon to set in, it was
indispensably necessary to give up one for the sake of preserving
the other. Upon this subject the masters consulted, and after
some time came to an agreement. As the Friendship was the smaller
vessel, and would be cleared more easily than the Alexander,
having fewer stores on board, Mr. Walton, her master, consented
that she should be evacuated and sunk, on condition that he
should be allowed half freight of the Alexander. In four days the
Friendship had her crew and stores transferred to the Alexander,
after which she was bored and turned adrift. The ships company
thus made out from both vessels was of no great strength, not
amounting to half the proper complement of the Alexander, nor was
it more than, allowing for the further ravages of disease, was
absolutely necessary to work that ship to Batavia.
The following list contains the whole number of persons now on
board the Alexander.
29 October 1788
On the 29th of October, at five in the morning, a land wind
springing up from the coast of Borneo, within six miles of which
the Alexander had lain at anchor, she got again under way, and at
ten was abreast of the point that forms the entrance into the
harbour of Pamanookan. At five in the afternoon Pulo Laoot bore
from south-south-west to south-west by south, distant twelve or
fourteen leagues; but the wind being now southerly, and the
current strongly against the vessel, she did not get round this
island till November the 5th.
1 November 1788
Wine was constantly served in due proportions to the sick and
well, but neither that, nor any other remedy that could be tried
amended the condition of the people. Sickness continued to spread
among them, insomuch that in the beginning of November only one
man besides the officers was able to go aloft. A short alarm by
no means added to the comfort of their condition: on the first of
this month four large boats, three of which rowed eighteen oars,
and the fourth not less than twelve or fourteen, bore down upon
the ship, apparently with hostile intentions. When they
approached within about a mile they lay to, as if to consult with
each other, and then continued to row and sail after the
Alexander. Lieutenant Shortland hoisted English colours, which
one of the boats answered by hoisting Dutch, and another
Portugueze colours. They continued in chase till five in the
afternoon, and it was imagined that their design was to board and
seize the ship in the night. During the pursuit the little
strength that could be raised was put in motion, all were
stationed at their quarters, and the carronades and great guns
put in order. When these preparations were made, Lieutenant
Shortland determined to show his own resolution, and to try that
of his assailants, by firing a shot in a direct line over them.
This was done accordingly, and fully answered the intention, for
they immediately desisted from the pursuit, and made hastily for
the shore.
Had the Alexander been at this time a very few days sail more
distant from Batavia, she must inevitably have been lost, not
from any stress of weather, or danger of coasts or shoals, but
merely from inability to conduct her into port, as every man on
board must have been totally disabled.
17 November 1788
On the 17th of November only one man was fit for work, besides
the officers; a very little longer continuance would have reduced
her to the condition of floating at the mercy of winds and waves,
without any possibility of assisting, impeding, or directing her
course. At six that evening, the wind being too scanty to carry
her into the roads of Batavia, an effort was made by all
indiscriminately who were able to work, and anchor was cast
between the islands of Leyden and Alkmara; soon after a gun was
fired, and a signal made for assistance. At two in the afternoon
on the 18th, as no assistance arrived, the still greater effort
of weighing anchor was tried, and the task performed with the
utmost difficulty; after which, standing in with the sea breeze,
the ship came again to anchor at five, in nine fathoms. The boat
was now hoisted out, and sent to beg assistance from the Dutch
Commodore, the crew of the Alexander being so much reduced as to
be unable to furl their own sails. A party was immediately sent
to assist, and six of the Dutch seamen remained on board all
night, lest any blowing weather should come on. Never, perhaps,
did any ship arrive in port more helpless, without being
shattered by weather, from the mere effects of a dreadful and
invincible disorder.
19 November 1788-7 December 1788
At five in the morning of the 19th, the welcome sight appeared
of a boat from the Dutch Commodore, which he had humanely laded
with refreshments. She brought also a boatswain’s mate and twelve
seamen to assist in refitting the ship for sea. The sick were
sent on the 20th to the hospital, where several of them died,
being too far gone for any accommodation or skill to recover.
From the Bridgewater and Contractor East Indiamen, which lay in
the road when the Alexander arrived; and from the Raymond, Asia,
and Duke of Montrose, which came in a few days after; with the
assistance of a few men from the Dutch Commodore, a fresh crew
was at length made up, in which only four of the original seamen
remained, the rest being either dead, or not enough recovered to
return with the Alexander, when she sailed again on the 7th of
December.
18 February 1789
The remaining part of the voyage was attended with few
circumstances worthy of notice, and was made in a track
sufficiently known to all navigators to permit us to dispense
with a minute description of it. At the Cape they met with
Captain Hunter, in the Sirius, who, when the Alexander arrived,
on the 18th of February, 1789, had been in Table Bay six weeks.
From him Lieutenant Shortland learned that the Borrowdale and the
Prince of Wales transports, which had parted from him on the
coast of New South Wales, had returned by the southern passage,
and had been heard of from Rio de Janeiro. In Table Bay the
Alexander remained at anchor till the 16th of March, when she
sailed again, and arrived off the Isle of Wight on the 28th of
May.
Thus concluded a voyage, the first part of which was enlivened
and rendered important by discoveries; the next involved in gloom
through the virulent attacks of distemper, and the frequent
inroads of death. Much was certainly performed, and very much was
suffered, but from the whole we are authorized to conclude, that
the settlement of our countrymen on the new southern continent,
must powerfully tend to the improvement of navigation, and the
extension of geographical knowledge. Nor is it necessary, that
any ill-omened apprehensions should be excited by the misfortunes
of the Alexander and the Friendship. It may not happen again that
ships shall quit Port Jackson so ill prepared with antidotes
against the malignant poison of the scurvy: nor, if they should,
is it by any means certain that their visitation will be equally
severe.
Chapter XX.
Lieutenant Watts’s Narrative of the Return of the Lady Penrhyn
Transport; containing an Account of the Death of Omai, and other
interesting Particulars at Otaheite.
5 May 1788-17 May 1788
The Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, left Port Jackson on the 5th of
May, 1788. In the evening of the 7th, imagining they saw a fire
on shore, they sounded, but found no bottom with ninety fathoms
of line. By their observation at noon, on the 9th, they found a
current had set the vessel eighty miles to the southward since
their leaving Port Jackson. The scurvy began already to make its
appearance amongst them; one man was rendered unfit for duty, and
several others complained very much. The weather in general was
squally, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the morning of the
14th they saw an island bearing north-east, half north, 18 or 20
leagues distant, which made in two detached hummocks: At seven in
the afternoon, the island seen in the morning was about nine
leagues distant, on which they brought to for the night, and next
morning made sail and stood for it. At noon they spoke to the
Supply, Lieutenant Ball, who informed them that this island is
named Lord Howe’s Island. During the afternoon and night they
stood off and on, and at nine o’clock the next morning a boat was
hoisted out, and Lieutenant Watts with a party went on shore in
search of turtle, but they could distinguish no traces of any,
though the different bays were very closely explored: about noon,
Mr. Watts returned on board. This disappointment did not deter
them from making another effort, as some turtle would have been a
very valuable acquisition: accordingly Mr. Anstis went with a
party in the pinnace to try his success in the night. About noon
the next day Mr. Anstis returned without having seen one turtle,
but to make some amends, the party had met with great success in
fishing, having caught a sufficient quantity to serve the ship’s
company three or four days.
Lord Howe’s Island was discovered by Lieutenant Ball on his
passage to Norfolk Island in the month of February, and on his
return he stopt and surveyed it; at that time he caught a
quantity of fine green turtles, of which there were great
numbers: this induced Governor Phillip to send the Supply a
second time to this island, but she then was unsuccessful, the
weather probably being so cold as to occasion the turtle to
remove to the northward. The island is about two leagues in
extent, and lies in the direction of north 30° west, and
south 30° east; the south-east end making in two very high
mounts, which may be seen at the distance of more than twenty
leagues, and at first appear like two detached isles. About three
leagues from these, and nearly in a south-east direction, is a
remarkably high and pointed rock,* which may be seen at least
twelve leagues off; from this there are dangerous rocks extending
three or four miles, both in a south-east and south-west line;
those to the south-west not shewing themselves above water: there
are also rocks extending four or five miles off the north-west
and north-east ends of the island, which is of a moderate height.
Both extremes are bluff, and there appears to be much foul ground
about them: within the north-west point lies a rock with eleven
fathoms water close to it, and there is a passage between it and
the island. The reef on the west side extends nearly to both
extremes with breaks in it, through which boats may pass with
safety, but within the reef it is in general very shoaly. The
island is tolerably broad at each end, and very narrow, with low
land in the center, forming two bays, that should the wind be
from south-east to north-east, or south-west to north-west, a
ship may always be secure by running to the leeward of the
island. There are regular soundings on the west side, but the
ground is too hard for holding well, being coral rocks. The east
side they did not examine. The low narrow part has evidently been
overflowed and the island disjointed, for in the very center, as
they walked across, they saw large beds of coral rocks, and
shells in great abundance; and on the east side, which seems in
general to be the weather side, the sea has thrown up a bank of
sand, from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, which serves as
a barrier against future inundations. The island has likewise
every appearance of having undergone a volcanic revolution, as
they found great quantities of burnt stone and pumice stone; and
Mr. Anstis, who landed on the reef which shelters the west bay,
at dead low water, found the whole a burnt up mass.
[* Ball’s Pyramid.]
The inhabitants of this island were all of the feathered
tribe, and the chief of these was the ganet, of which there were
prodigious numbers, and it should seem that this is the time of
their incubation, the females being all on their nests: these are
places simply hollowed in the sand, there not being a single
quadruped that could be found upon the island to disturb them.
The people brought numbers of their eggs on board. Very large
pigeons were also met with in great plenty; likewise beautiful
parrots and parroquets; a new species, apparently, of the coote,
and also of the rail, and magpie; and a most beautiful small
bird, brown, with a yellow breast and yellow on the wing; it
seemed to be a species of humming bird: there was also a black
bird, like a sheerwater, with a hooked bill, which burrows in the
ground. Numbers of ants were seen, which appeared the only insect
at this place, except the common earth worm. The soil is of a
sandy nature, and fresh water extremely scarce in those places
which they had an opportunity of examining.
This island is well covered with wood, the chief of which is
the large and dwarf mangrove, the bamboo, and the cabbage tree.
The different vegetables met with were scurvy grass, wild celery,
spinach, endive, and samphire.
31 May 1788
From the mean of all their observations they found this island
to be situated in 31°. 30′. 49″. south latitude, and by
comparing their lunar observations with those of Lieutenant Ball,
they found its longitude to be 159°. 10′. 00″. east of
Greenwich. The mean state of the thermometer, during their short
stay, was 66°. and the variation of the compass, by many
observations, was found to be 10°. east. In the afternoon the
pinnace was hoisted in, and they made sail to the eastward with a
fresh breeze at south-west. Nothing material occurred till the
31st, when about three o’clock in the afternoon they saw two
islands, one bearing north-east, half east, seven leagues, and
the other east by south, about six leagues distant. Not having an
opportunity of getting well in with the land before night came
on, they plied occasionally under an easy sail, and at day-light
next morning [1 June 1788] made sail and bore up for it. On
approaching the southernmost land, they found it to form two
barren isles, separated by a channel about a quarter of a mile
over, and apparently free from danger: the north island lies in a
north half east direction from these, and about five leagues
distant. At noon, the body of the north island bore north-east by
north three miles distant: their latitude at that time was
30°. 11′. south, and the longitude by lunar observation
180°. 58′. 37″. east. At one o’clock they bore round the west
end of the island, and hove to near the center of it, about a
mile off shore. They were in hopes, from the appearance of the
island at a distance, that they should have found it productive
of something beneficial to the people, (the scurvy gaining ground
daily) but they were greatly disappointed; both the north and
south sides are surrounded by rocks, over which the water flows,
without the least opening for a boat; however, Capt. Sever
ordered the small boat to be hoisted out, and went on shore
accompanied by Mr. Anstis: they found great difficulty in
landing, and, when upon the rocks, they had to mount a very
dangerous precipice, in order to gain the level part of the
island. This island forms very high at the west end, and slopes
gradually to the east end, where it terminates in a cliff of a
moderate height: both sides have a range of these cliffs
extending the whole length, which are chiefly composed of white
sand. The whole of the island bears the strongest marks of being
a volcanic production, having great quantities of pumice stone on
it, and the rocks quite burnt up. The top of the land was covered
with a coarse kind of grass, and the place affords great plenty
of the wild mangrove. The extent of this island is about two
miles and an half, nearly in the direction of east-south-east and
west-north-west; the soil a mixture of mould and sand. The
inhabitants are the brown gull, the light-grey bird, ganets, and
a parroquet of the same species with those met with at Lord
Howe’s Island. The gentlemen could scarcely walk a step without
being up to the knee in holes: they saw a great number of rats
and mice, and found many birds lying dead at the entrances of
their burrows: they saw no appearance of fresh water, though from
the gullies that were formed in various parts, the island must
certainly be subject to very heavy rains. This island was named
Macaulay’s Island, after G. M. Macaulay, Esq; and the two islands
to the southward, Curtis’s Isles, after Timothy and William
Curtis, Esqrs. At five in the afternoon, the Captain returning on
board, the boat was hoisted in, and they made sail, standing to
the eastward with a moderate breeze at south-west. Macaulay’s
Island is situated in 30°. 09′. south latitude, and 180°.
58′. 37”. east longitude.
Curtis’s Isles
Macaulay’s Isles
6 June 1788-10 July 1788
The scurvy now began to spread very fast among the crew, and
by the 6th, they had nine men unable to get out of their
hammocks, and many others complained very much: swelled gums, the
flesh exceeding black and hard, a contraction of the sinews, with
a total debility; were the general appearances. Wine was daily
served out to them, and there was sour-krout on on board, but the
people refused to eat it. From this to the 17th they had little
variety; by that time the people were in a deplorable state, for
with every person on board, the Captain included, they could only
muster ten men able to do duty, and some of them were in a very
weakly state: sour-krout, which before had been refused, now
began to be sought after, and they had all the Captain’s fresh
stock, himself and officers living solely on salt provisions; and
to add to their melancholy situation the wind hung almost
constantly in the eastern board, so that they could scarcely make
any progress. For several days they had very squally unsettled
weather, attended with almost constant heavy rain, and frequent
storms of thunder and lightning. On the 24th, being then in
32°. 12′. south latitude, and 207°. 28′. east longitude,
the wind shifted to the westward, but the weather still continued
squally and unsettled. On the 7th July, in 21°. 57′. south
latitude, they fell in with the south-east trade wind, and as the
people were in a very weak condition, it was determined to make
Otaheite as soon as possible. At six o’clock in the morning of
the 9th, they saw Osnaburgh Island, bearing north by east, half
east, four or five leagues distant. At seven they bore up for
Otaheite, and at ten o’clock that island made its appearance,
bearing west by north; by five in the afternoon they were abreast
of Oaitepeha Bay, and ten canoes presently came alongside with
bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, etc. The Indians pressed them very much
to come to an anchor there, but as they were not able to purchase
their anchor again when once let go, Mr. Watts advised the
Captain to stand on for Matavai Bay. During the night they wore
occasionally, and at day-light in the morning of the 10th stood
in for the land. At noon, Point Venus bore south-west by south
about three miles distant. In standing into Matavai Bay the ship
got rather too close on the Dolphin Bank, having only two and a
half fathoms water for several casts, over a hard bottom, but she
deepened at once to seventeen fathoms, and they stood over to the
south side of the bay, in hopes by making a board, to fetch the
Resolution’s old birth, which would have made the watering place
very handy; but the ship missing stays, they were obliged to let
go the anchor, and content themselves in their situation. They
anchored at nine o’clock in eight fathoms water, over a soft
bottom, Point Venus bearing north-north-east, and One Tree Hill
south by east, half east, distant from shore about half a mile.
On approaching the bay, they could perceive a prodigious number
of the natives on Point Venus, and round the beach, and several
canoes put off from the shore, the Indians waving pieces of white
cloth and making signs for them to come into the bay. When
anchored they had only three men in one watch, and two in the
other besides the mates, and two of these ailing; the rest of the
crew were in a truly deplorable state.
Their first care was naturally to procure some refreshments,
and it was a pleasing circumstance for them to see the natives
flock round the ship, calling out “Tayo Tayo,” which signifies
friends; and “Pabii no Tutti,” Cook’s ship; and bringing in very
great plenty cocoa nuts, bread-fruit, plantains and taro, and a
fruit known by the name of the Otaheite apple; they also brought
some hogs and fowls. All the Indians appeared glad to see them,
and disposed of their various commodities on very moderate terms,
and indeed their whole behaviour indicated the most friendly
intentions. In the evening, the Chief of Matavai came on board,
and in him Lieutenant Watts recollected an old friend: the Chief
was greatly pleased to see Mr. Watts, as he was the only person
in the ship who had been here before, except the steward, who had
been before the mast in the Resolution; therefore, when Mona
(which was the chief’s name) saw his old acquaintance, he
explained to his companions who he was, and that he had been with
Capt. Cook, and they seemed very glad to have some of their old
visitors again. Mr. Watts learnt from Mona, that O’too was still
living, that he was always called Earee Tutti, and then was
absent on a visit to the eastward, but expected to return in four
or five days: At the same time, he said, messengers had been sent
to acquaint him of the ship’s arrival. He also informed Mr.
Watts, that Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, to retaliate the
mischief done him by Capt. Cook, had, after the departure of the
Resolution and Discovery from the islands, landed in the night at
Oparree, and destroyed all the animals and fowls he could lay
hold of, and that O’too was obliged to fly to the mountains. He
likewise intimated that the Attahooroo men joined Maheine in this
business. Indeed, it occurred to Mr. Watts, that when here in the
Resolution, Toha, the chief of that district, threatened
something of the kind in a quarrel with O’too, and probably
smothered his resentment only for a time, fearful of Capt. Cook
revenging it, should it come to his knowledge.
11 July 1788
The next day, Oediddee agreeably surprised them with a visit
on board: he was greatly rejoiced to see them, and enquired after
all his friends in a very affectionate manner: He took great
pleasure in recounting his route in the Resolution, had treasured
up in his memory the names of the several places he had been at
in her, nor had he forgot his English compliments. He informed
them that no ship had been at the islands since Capt. Cook:
therefore, they concealed his death, and Capt. Sever made
Oediddee a present, as coming from Capt. Cook. Oediddee confirmed
the report of the cattle, etc. being destroyed by Maheine, and
likewise informed them that Omai, and the two New Zealand boys
had been dead a considerable time through illness, and that one
horse only was alive at Huaheine, but they could not learn any
further particulars from him.
13 July 1788
In the evening of the 13th, a messenger came on board with a
present from O’too of a small pig, a dog, and some white cloth,
and intimated that he would be at Matavai the next day. Early in
the next morning but few canoes came off to the ship, and the
natives were observed assembling on the shore in prodigious
numbers: soon afterwards, a canoe came alongside and informed
them that O’too was on the beach; on this, the Captain and Mr.
Watts went on shore immediately, and found him surrounded by an
amazing concourse of people, amongst whom were several women
cutting their foreheads very much with the shark’s tooth, but
what both surprised and pleased them very much, was, to see a man
carrying the portrait of Captain Cook, drawn by Webber in 1777.
Notwithstanding so much time had elapsed since the picture was
drawn, it had received no injury, and they were informed that
O’too always carried it with him wherever he went. After the
first salutations were over, Mr. Watts asked O’too to accompany
him to the ship, to which he readily agreed; but previously to
his entering the boat he ordered the portrait in, and when he got
alongside the ship he observed the same ceremony. When on board
he appeared much pleased, asked after his old friends, and was
very particular in his enquiries after Capt. Cook. He visited the
ship between decks, was astonished to see so few people on board,
and the greatest part of them in a debilitated state, and
enquired if they had lost any men at sea. He acquainted them with
the revenge taken by the Eimeo people, and asked why they had not
brought out some cattle, etc. He also mentioned the death of
Omai, and the New Zealand boys, and added, that there had been a
skirmish between the men of Uliatea and those of Huaheine, in
which the former were victorious, and that a great part of Omai’s
property was carried to Uliatea. O’too was considerably improved
in his person, and was by much the best made man of any that they
saw; nor was he, as yet, disfigured by the baneful effects of the
ava. He preserved his original character in supplying the ship
with provisions of every kind in the most liberal manner; and
when any of the natives who had come from a considerable
distance, begged his intercession with them on board to take
their hogs, etc. off their hands, which, on account of the few
people they had, they were often obliged, much against their
inclination, to refuse, he was very moderate: indeed, he
generally left the matter to themselves, and whenever he
undertook to dispose of another person’s property was always well
paid for his trouble. During their stay at Otaheite he daily paid
them a visit, and importuned the Captain very much to move the
ship into the Resolution’s old birth: where she then lay, she was
nearly in the situation of the Dolphin on her first anchoring;
and though at some distance from the watering place, yet,
considering the small number of people on board, and their weak
situation, the Captain judged it prudent to remain where he was,
as in case of necessity he could put to sea instantly.
O’too was always accompanied by a woman, whose advice he asked
upon every occasion; she was by no means handsome, neither did
she possess that delicacy, or those engaging manners that so much
distinguish her countrywomen in general: she was of the Earree
class, and seemed to have great authority; but whether or no she
was his wife they did not learn, though Mr. Watts was rather
inclined to think they were married, and he appeared to be
greatly attached to her. The king and all the chiefs were very
urgent for Captain Sever to go to Eimeo, and revenge their
quarrel, and several of them offered to get a stock of provisions
and accompany him; however, to this request he gave a positive
refusal. About three days before they quitted Matavai Bay, O’too
brought the ring of an anchor on board, observing it might be
made into small hatchets: Mr. Watts upon examining it,
recollected that it certainly belonged to an anchor which Captain
Cook bought of Opooni, at Bola Bola, in 1777: as there was no
forge on board the Lady Penrhyn, the Captain offered O’too three
hatchets for it, which he readily took. When Captain Cook bought
the anchor just mentioned it wanted the ring and one of the
palms, and at that time they knew that it had been carried from
Otaheite, and belonged to Mons. Bougainville: how O’too came by
the ring, Mr. Watts could not learn, but had he possessed it when
the Resolution was here, it is reasonable to suppose he would
have brought it to Captain Cook, and the more so as at that time
the natives used to bring many large pieces of iron (which they
had obtained from the Spaniards) to be either worked up or
exchanged for trinkets. Though from the season of the year they
had reason to expect a scarcity of vegetables, yet they were
agreably surprised to find them in the greatest plenty and
profusion; hogs were multiplied amazingly, and from the
proceedings of the natives, Mr. Watts was induced to think they
were desirous to thin them, as they brought none to barter but
sows, and the greatest part of them were with pig: fowls were
obtained in tolerable plenty, but they were all cocks, and old;
the natives likewise brought goats alongside for sale, and some
of them brought cats and offered them in barter. Captain Sever
purchased a fine male and milch goat with two kids.
Cocoa nuts are a never failing article at this place, and the
bread-fruit, which was so scarce when the Endeavour was here at
the same season of the year, was now exceedingly plentiful, and
in high perfection, as was the Otaheite apple; plantains, both
ripe and green, and taro, the natives brought in great
quantities, but yams and sweet potatoes were very scarce. They
purchased seven or eight dozen of pumkins, and a quantity of
chilipods, which were some of the produce of the Resolution’s
garden, and one of the Indians brought some cabbage leaves on
board, but the cabbages, as well as sundry other vegetables, were
gone to ruin for want of proper care and attention. The natives
could not be enticed to eat any of the pumkins, and the chilipods
they said poisoned them.
It already has been observed, that no ship of any nation had
visited this island since Captain Cook, and from appearances, the
iron which the natives obtained at that time was pretty well
exhausted, as the only iron now seen was the blade of a
table-knife; neither did they bring any tools on board to be
sharpened, which certainly would have been the case had they been
possessed of any, and such was their avidity to obtain hatchets,
knives, etc. that every produce the island afforded was purchased
at very reasonable rates, nor were the first prices given,
attempted to be altered during their stay. Besides hatchets,
knives, and nails, the natives were very desirous to have
gimlets, files, and scissars; they also asked for
looking-glasses, and white transparent beads, but of these latter
articles they had none on board: red feathers, which had formerly
been held in great esteem, were now of no value; they would
accept them as presents indeed, but would not barter any one
article for them.
As their situation was not a very eligible one, Mr. Watts did
not think it prudent to go any great distance from the ship, or
even to be much on shore, so that he was prevented from gaining
much information, or seeing into many matters that might have
enabled him to judge whether the whole of their report respecting
Omai, and the loss of his property, etc. was true or not;
however, he was inclined to think that the cattle and all the
animals were killed, except goats, as Oediddee, when he confirmed
the revenge of the Eimeo people, never mentioned that any one
animal was saved: goats, indeed, had been left on former voyages,
and from increase had become the property of many, but Maheine’s
resentment, it seems, was levelled at O’too only.
23 July 1788
Great numbers of the natives had been carried off by the
venereal disease, which they had caught from their connections
with the crews of the Resolution and Discovery; nor were the
women so free from this complaint as formerly, especially the
lowest class, the better sort seemingly not wishing to hazard the
catching so terrible a disorder. The people having recovered in a
most astonishing manner, and being now able to assist in the
duties of the ship, Captain Sever thought it adviseable to run
down amongst the Society Isles, as they had got a plentiful
supply of provisions on board; accordingly, they got under way
before daylight in the morning of the 23d. The natives soon took
the alarm, and the breeze slackening, they were soon crowded with
visitors, none of whom came empty handed. Their friends parted
from them with great reluctance, and the suddenness of their
departure seemed to disappoint the natives greatly; indeed, they
would not have left the place so abruptly, had they not been
apprehensive that if their intention was known, the Indians would
have flocked on board in too great numbers, and have been
troublesome. They had the satisfaction of leaving this Island in
perfect amity with the natives, and it is but doing them justice
to say, that during the time the Lady Penrhyn lay here, not one
occasion offered to induce them to fire a musquet. Oediddee
regretted their departure exceedingly, and importuned the Captain
very much to take him to Uliatea, but O’too (whatever were his
reasons) begged that he might by no means be taken from Otaheite;
the Captain promised he should not, and taking leave of Oediddee,
put him into his canoe, on which he shed tears in abundance, said
he was very unhappy, and when he put from the ship never once
turned to look at her: his situation was much to be pitied, and
he truly merited every friendship that could be shown him; during
the time they lay here, he was a constant visitor, and daily
brought on board a supply of ready drest provisions. O’too was
one of the earliest on board in the morning, and did not leave
the ship till they had cleared the reef; he expressed great
sorrow at their departure, mentioned how much time had elapsed
since the Resolution and Discovery were at Otaheite, begged they
would not be so long absent any more, and desired very much to
have some horses brought to him, more particularly than any other
animal: just before he quitted the ship, he asked for a few guns
to be fired, with which the Captain complied. A breeze now
springing up, their friends took a last farewell, and they stood
to the north-west for Huaheine; at noon, Point Venus was about
five miles distant.
It may, perhaps, be lamented, that Lieutenant Watts (whose
acquaintance with the Chiefs, and knowledge of their language,
rendered him a proper person to make enquiries) should not have
been able to give a more full account of matters, at an island
that has so much engaged the public notice; but, when the short
stay of the ship, and her situation are considered, it will be
natural to imagine, that the officers found their time very fully
employed: such particulars, however, as have been above related
may be depended on as facts.
25 July 1788
At noon on the 25th, they saw the island, Huaheine, bearing
west three-quarters north, fourteen leagues distant: from this
time they had very light winds, and those westerly, which
prevented their reaching the island before noon on the 26th; when
the extremes of it bore from west half north to south by west
half west, off shore three miles. They kept standing off and on,
on the east side (the wind continuing in the western board) till
the 29th, during which time the natives brought off plenty of
refreshments, but they were far more exorbitant in their demands
than their neighbours.
29 July 1788
In the morning of the 29th, the wind veering to the south
south-east, they stood round the north end of the island, and
brought to off Owharree harbour; the natives appeared perfectly
friendly, and constantly supplied them with every article except
bread-fruit, which they said had failed that season: they were
very importunate for them to go into the harbour, but as Captain
Sever did not intend to stay more than a day or two, he did not
think it worth the trouble.
In the evening, an elderly chief, who went by the name of
Tutti, and whom Mr. Watts recollected to have frequently seen
with Captain Cook, came on board; he confirmed the reports they
had heard at Otaheite, and told them, that after Omai had got
perfectly settled, he found himself under the necessity of
purchasing a great quantity of cloth, and other necessaries, for
himself and family, of which his neighbours took advantage, and
made him pay extravagantly for every article he purchased; that
he frequently visited Uliatea, and never went empty handed, so
that by these means he expended much of his treasure: he died at
his own house, as did the New Zealand boys, but in what order
their deaths had happened, Tutti could not give information. Upon
Omai’s decease, the Uliatea men came over and attacked them for
his property, alledging that as he was a native of their island
they had an undoubted right to it. Tutti said they carried away a
considerable part of his remaining property, and particularly his
musquets, the stocks of which they broke, and took the powder and
buried it in the sand: he added, that the conflict had been very
fierce, and that great numbers were slain on both sides, nor were
they friends even at this time. Three of the natives who came on
board, had the os frontis fractured in a terrible manner, but
they were then perfectly recovered of their wounds. The house
that Captain Cook had built for Omai was still in being, and was
covered by a very large one built after the country fashion; it
was taken possession of by the chief of the island. With respect
to the horses, the mare had foaled, but died soon afterwards, as
did the foal, the horse was still living though of no benefit:
thus were rendered fruitless the benevolent intentions of his
Majesty, and all the pains and trouble Captain Cook had been at
in preserving the cattle, during a tedious passage to these
islands.
2 August 1788-24 August 1788
Having recruited their stock of provisions, and added a large
quantity of yams and sugar cane, and the wind coming to the
eastward (which had not been the case more than four or five days
since their first anchoring in Matavai Bay) they on the 2d of
August took leave of their friends, and stood to the northward
until noon, when they steered north-west. They carried away from
these hospitable islands, sixty hogs, weighing from seventy to
two hundred and twenty pounds each, besides near fifty small
pigs, ten dozen of fowls, an immense quantity of cocoa-nuts,
green plantains, sugar cane, taro, and yams, and about eight
dozen of pumkins; the people were all perfectly recovered, and
from the plentiful stock of provisions on board there was reason
to hope that they would not be any more alarmed for their safety.
At day light in the Morning of the 8th, they saw a low flat
island, bearing from east to north-east seven or eight miles
distant; it appeared to be well clothed with trees, but the
weather at that time being squally allowed them a very imperfect
view. Captain Sever named it Penrhyn’s Island; it is situated in
9°. 10′. south latitude, and 202°. 15′. east longitude.
In the afternoon of the 20th, the Captain and some others
imagining they saw land, and the sun setting in a fog-bank, which
prevented them ascertaining the reality, they shortened sail, and
lay by for the night; but at five o’clock the next morning no
land being in sight, they made sail and stood to the north-west
by west, with a fine breeze at north-east. In the evening of the
23d, being near the situation of an island and reef, as laid down
in Lord Anson’s chart, they brought to for the night. A number of
ganets and other birds were flying about the next day, but no
land appeared in sight: their latitude at noon was 9° 30′
north, and 179° 18′ east longitude.
15 September 1788
Nothing occured worthy of note till the 15th of September,
when about noon they saw the island of Saypan, bearing west half
north, twelve leagues distant. The next day at noon the south end
of Tinian was about four leagues distant: in the afternoon the
small boat was hoisted out, and Mr. Anstis went in her to sound a
small bay round the south point of Saypan; he returned at seven
o’clock, having found from ten to twenty fathoms water about a
mile off shore, but the ground hard. The next morning, Mr. Anstis
went on shore in the small boat to endeavour to procure a
bullock, great numbers of which were seen grazing on the island
Tinian. At six in the afternoon, they stood round the south point
of Tinian, but finding they could not fetch into the road, they
brought to for the night. In the evening, Mr. Anstis returned
with the best part of a young bullock. The next morning at day
light, they made sail and stood in for the road, and at nine
o’clock came to anchor in eighteen fathoms, over a bottom of
coral, about a mile and an half distant from shore. Soon after
they anchored, a party were sent on shore to hunt.
25 September 1788-29 September 1788
From this to the 25th, they had light winds varying from south
to east, with frequent showers over the land, and the flies so
very troublesome that they found Captain Byron’s account of them
perfectly just. On coming to an anchor, they observed a buoy a
little to the southward, with a slip buoy to it, they swept for
the anchor, weighed it, and found it belonged to the Charlotte
(Gilbert, master) one of the ships from Port Jackson bound to
China; there were two-thirds of a cable to it. The party on shore
also found some spars, apparently erected for a tent, and three
water casks, one of which was full: it is most likely the
Charlotte was blown out of the road, and could not regain her
station again. Observing that their anchor was foul, on the 25th
they hove it up to clear, and let it go again; presently
afterwards, finding the ship adrift, they sounded, and had
twenty-five fathoms, but as she was at the edge of the bank, they
hove the anchor up, and made a stretch to the southward, but did
not again fetch the bay till the evening of the 26th. The two
following days they had dark heavy weather with very hard
squalls, and almost continual rain, the wind from north-east to
south-east. At day light in the morning of the 29th, the wind
veered round to the south south-west, and soon afterwards, a very
severe squall, attended with heavy rain, set the ship adrift, and
the tide making strong to the north-west with a large hollow sea,
they veered the reef very fast; however, the squall something
abating, and fortunately backing round to the south south-east,
they got their anchor up (which they otherwise would not have
been able to have effected) and bore away to the north
north-west. At noon the body of Tinian bore east half south,
about four leagues distant.
During their stay at Tinian, filling water took up the whole
of their time, the well not affording more than three tons a day,
sometimes only two tons: the water was rather brackish, but
otherwise not ill tasted. They found the fowls and hogs very shy,
and the cattle had quite deserted the south part of the island,
owing, as was imagined, to the alarm the Charlotte‘s people had
occasioned among them.
They obtained two bulls, eight hogs, and about a dozen fowls;
they also got bread fruit, but it was at some distance up the
country, and the generality of it not ripe: there was abundance
of guavas but they were not in season; limes and sour oranges
were also very plentiful. Cocoa-nut trees were in abundance, but
those within a moderate distance from the beach were cut down, so
that the distance they had to go for any was attended with too
much fatigue to compensate for the advantages which could be
derived from them, as they experienced from two or three attempts
of the kind: the season in general seemed very backward. In
addition to the animals of this place, they found wild cats, The
country had exactly the same appearance as when Captains Byron
and Wallis visited it, but many of the pyramidical pillars had
fallen down and were much decayed. The mean state of the
thermometer during their stay, was 87°. In their passage from
hence to China, no material circumstance occurred, and on the
19th of October they anchored in Macao Roads.
Track of the Scarborough
Chapter XXI.
May 1788 to September 1788
The Scarborough leaves Port Jackson–Touches at Lord Howe’s
Island–Joins the Charlotte–Falls in with a large
Shoal–Discover a number of Islands–Short account of the
Inhabitants–Canoes described–Ornaments– Discover Lord
Mulgrave’s Islands–Arrival at Tinian–Sick people sent on
shore–Departure from Tinian–Arrival in Mocao Roads.
6 May 1788-22 May 1788
The Scarborough transport, Captain Marshall, left Port Jackson
on the 6th of May 1788, and proceeded towards China, being
engaged to take in a cargo of teas at Canton for the East India
Company. For several days they had very unsettled weather, with
frequent squalls and heavy rain. In the afternoon of the 16th,
they saw Lord Howe’s Island, bearing east by south seven leagues
distant; and the next day at noon, they found the Supply brig,
the Lady Penrhyn, and the Charlotte, standing off and on under
the island. By two o’clock the Scarborough was close in with the
land, but the weather not permitting them to go on shore, the
night was spent in standing off and on. Early the next morning,
Captain Marshall sent his boat with the chief mate and six men on
shore at Lord Howe’s Island, in expectation of procuring some
turtle, as the Supply, Lieutenant Ball, had caught a large
quantity at this island in February: however, they were not able,
after the most diligent search, to meet with any turtle; but this
excursion was not altogether a fruitless one, for they brought
off a quantity of fine birds, sufficient to serve the ship’s crew
three days; many of them were very fat, somewhat resembling a
Guinea hen, and proved excellent food. Having procured such
refreshments as the island afforded, they made sail at four
o’clock, with the Charlotte in company, and stood to the
eastward, with a moderate breeze at south-west. At eight o’clock
in the morning of the 22d, they saw Norfolk Island, bearing east
by south twelve leagues distant. At two o’clock, they were within
one mile of the land, and had soundings in sixteen fathoms water
over a hard bottom: the Charlotte being a considerable distance
a-stern, Captain Marshall lay to for her to come up, and when she
joined the Scarborough he stood under an easy sail to the
distance of six leagues westward of the island, and carried
soundings from sixteen to twenty-five fathoms, the ground
various; in some places being soft, in other parts a corally
bottom, and sometimes coarse white sand, intermixed with broken
shells.
26 May 1788
After leaving Norfolk Island, they stretched to the northward
and eastward, and at one o’clock on the twenty-sixth they saw a
small island bearing north north-east eight or nine leagues
distant; when about four miles from the island, they sounded with
fifty fathoms of line, but got no bottom. Towards evening,
Captain Marshall was close in with the island, and being desirous
to examine it, he plied occasionally during the night. At day
light the next morning, he was close to the land, and found it to
be a barren rock, not more than half a mile over in the broadest
part; it is very high, and was entirely covered with birds of
various kinds, but there was no possibility of landing on account
of a frightful surf that entirely surrounded it. This rock was
seen first by Captain Gilbert, of the Charlotte, in the forenoon
of the 26th, and named by him, Matthew’s Island; it is situated
in 22° 22′ south latitude, and 170° 41′ longitude, east
of Greenwich.
30 May 1788-13 June 1788
On the 30th, in 17° 13′ south latitude, and 172° 43′
east longitude, they passed several large trees, and a number of
cocoa-nuts floating in the water, but no land was to be seen.
Nothing occurred worthy of note till the 4th of June, when the
water appearing coloured, they sounded and struck the ground in
fifteen fathoms water, although no land was to be seen: a man was
then sent to the mast-head, who could plainly discern that the
shoal run to the westward, on which Captain Marshall altered his
course and stretched to the eastward, carrying soundings from
fifteen to thirty fathoms water, over a rocky bottom, and in many
places they could see the ground very distinctly. After running
to the eastward, about eight miles, they found no bottom with
seventy fathoms of line, which occasioned the Captain to tack and
stand to the southward. Vast numbers of birds of different kinds
were flying to the westward of the shoal, so that there probably
is an island near that situation. The east part of this shoal is
situated in 173° 12′ east longitude, and the south part of it
in 15° 50′ south latitude, but how far it extends to the
westward and northward is very uncertain, though doubtless to a
considerable distance, as the water had a white appearance from
the mast head as far as the eye could reach. Being now entirely
free from the shoal, they stood to the northward, with a light
easterly breeze, and moderate weather. On the 9th, in 7° 59′
south latitude, the wind shifted to the westward and continued in
the western board till the 13th when it again changed to the
eastward.
18 June 1788
At six o’clock in the morning of the 18th they saw an island
right a-head, bearing north half west eight or nine miles
distant: they sounded when about six miles from the land, but got
no bottom with sixty fathoms of line; at this time Captain
Marshall perceived several canoes with their sails set, and two
or three men in each canoe, coming towards the ship, but they
presently put back again and made for the shore. This island is
very low and level, and extends north-east, and south-west,
terminating at each end in a low, flat point, with an appearance
of a large bay in the middle; the Captain named it Hopper’s
Island; it is situated in 00° 03′ south latitude, and
173° 43′ longitude east from Greenwich.
At seven o’clock they saw another island smaller than the
former, lying about six miles to the south-west of Hopper’s
Island, and nearly the same in appearance; this was named
Henderville’s Island. Towards noon, another island made its
appearance, which Captain Marshall named Woodle’s Island,
situated three miles to the north-west of Henderville’s Island.
Five large canoes with sails set put off from Woodle’s Island,
and came towards the ship, but when about four miles distant,
they turned back and stood for the shore. The wind blowing off
the land prevented them from getting in with the shore, so as to
enable them to give a particular description of these islands;
they seemed to abound with cocoa-nut, and a variety of other
trees. At three o’clock in the afternoon, the Scarborough being
within three miles of Henderville’s Island, they sounded with
sixty fathoms of line, but got no ground. Several large fires
were lighted up on the shore, and the natives assembled in vast
numbers on the beach, many of them pointing at the ship with
looks of wonder and surprise; presently afterwards, nineteen
canoes, with five or six men in each, came off from the shore and
made towards the ship, on which Captain Marshall lay to, in hopes
they would come along side; several of them came within a quarter
of a mile of the ship, and then taking down their sails, they
stopt to gaze at the vessel, but nothing would induce them to
come alongside; however, as more canoes were seen coming from the
island, Captain Marshall determined to lay to till they all
returned on shore, as there was a probability of his procuring
some refreshments from them: two of the last canoes made for the
ship without the least hesitation; on this, the Captain ordered
his people out of sight that the natives might not be
intimidated. When the canoes were close to the ship, the Indians
began to talk, and made signs for them to bring the ship nearer
the island.
After talking with the natives some time, the Captain shewed
them a few small nails, a quart bottle, and a looking-glass, all
of which they seemed very desirous to obtain; however, they could
not be prevailed on to bring their canoes along-side, but three
of them jumped out and swam to the ship; a rope was given them to
take hold of, but they could not be persuaded to come on board.
On receiving their little presents they laughed very heartily,
and by way of exchange gave the Captain some beads and teeth of
beasts or animals, which they wore about their necks as
ornaments: this circumstance serves to show that they have some
idea of barter.
After making signs a second time for them to bring the ship
nearer the island, they took their leave, and presently
afterwards all the canoes returning towards the shore, Captain
Marshall made sail and stood to the northward. The situation of
these islands has already been mentioned, they lie in nearly a
north-west and south-east direction: Hopper’s Island appears to
be about ten leagues in length, Henderville’s Island six leagues,
and Woodle’s Island the same.
It is to be lamented that Captain Marshall had not an
opportunity of surveying these islands more minutely, as there is
scarcely a doubt of their affording a variety of refreshments;
for though nothing of the kind was seen in the canoes, yet the
natives were plump and fleshy, and seemed to live at their ease:
there is also an appearance of a most excellent harbour at
Hopper’s Island.
The inhabitants seem to be a fine set of people; they are of a
copper colour, stout and well made; their hair is long and black,
with black eyes and eye brows, and they seem to have very fine
teeth. The only ornaments seen amongst them were necklaces made
of beads intermixed with teeth, and many of them had their faces
painted white.
A Canoe and Natives of Mulgrave’s Range
If we may judge of these people from the construction of their
canoes, they certainly possess a considerable share of
contrivance and ingenuity: many of them are large enough to
contain sixteen or twenty people; they are narrow, and built to
sail very fast, yet there is not the least danger of their
oversetting, as they are steadied with an out-rigger resembling a
ladder on the weather side, to one end of which a log of wood is
fastened, cut sharp at each end in the form of a boat; this not
only serves to keep the canoe upright, but likewise holds her to
windward. At the other end of the out-rigger, a stout rope is
fixed, which leads up to the mast head and serves as a shroud;
and when the wind blows fresh, two or more men, according to the
size of the canoe, go out upon the ladder to keep her
upright.
Though these canoes always sail on the same side, yet they are
so contrived as to sail one way as well as the other, and the
Indians manage them with such dexterity that they put about much
sooner than our boats. Every canoe has a sail, which in general
is very large; they appear to be made of raw-silk, neatly sewed
together, and are cut in the form of our shoulder of mutton sail,
with a yard at the fore-leach, and another at the foot, so that
when they want to put their canoe about, they only have to shift
their tack and bring it to leeward of the mast: in short, from
what little Captain Marshall saw of these people, they appeared
to be lively, ingenious and expert.
20 June 1788
After quitting these new discovered Islands, Captain Marshall
stood to the northward, with a light breeze at east north-east,
and at five o’clock in the morning of the 20th, they saw an
island bearing east north-east, eight miles distant; it appeared
very low, and almost level with the water, so that when only four
miles distant they could perceive nothing but trees. When Captain
Marshall got close in with the land, he found it to be a chain of
islands, extending from south-east to north-west for the distance
of more than thirty leagues. Having a favourable breeze, they run
along the islands about three miles from shore, and several
canoes with sails set, came after the ship, but none of them
would come near her. Great numbers of the natives presently
assembled on the beach, in order to gratify their curiosity in
looking at the ship; this induced Captain Marshall to lay to in
expectation of the natives coming along-side, but not one of them
ventured near the ship: at one time he had an intention of
sending his boat on shore in order to procure some refreshments,
as many of his crew were laid up with the scurvy; however, he
prudently declined taking this step, as it certainly would have
been hazarding too much to have sent a few men amongst an
ignorant multitude, with whose temper and disposition they were
perfectly unacquainted.
The centre of these islands is situated in 1° 50′ north
latitude, 173° 00′ east longitude. They are very low, and yet
it is rather remarkable, that on sounding, when not more than a
mile from the land, there was no bottom found with eighty fathoms
of line. Within the islands there appeared to be some fine
harbours, and they probably afford a variety of refreshments. The
natives seemed to be nearly black, and their canoes were
constructed much in the same manner as those already
described.
22 June 1788
There being no prospect of procuring any refreshments from
these people, Captain Marshall made sail, and at noon on the 22d
they saw land in the direction of north by east, eight miles
distant; it appeared very low, flat, and full of trees. By four
o’clock, they were close in with the southernmost land, and saw a
great number of canoes sailing close to the shore, some of which
came towards the ship, and two of them very near, but nothing
would entice them to come along-side. The people appeared much
the same as those at Henderville’s Island, and their canoes were
of a similar construction; one of them had a kind of vane at the
mast head, which appeared to be made of the same materials as
their sail. In running along shore, they found it to consist of
six different islands, extending from north by east to south by
west, to the length of fourteen or fifteen leagues; the centre of
them is situated in 2° 58′ north latitude, and 173° 00′
east longitude. The southernmost island, Captain Marshall named
Allen’s Island; the second, Gillespy’s Island; the third,
Touching’s Island; the fourth, Clarke’s Island; the fifth,
Smith’s Island; and the northernmost, Scarborough Island. They
ran along these islands about three miles distant from the land,
and kept the lead constantly going, but could get no bottom,
which appeared rather extraordinary as the land is very low.
There appears to be good anchorage between these islands, and the
water very smooth, and they seem to abound with cocoa-nut and
cabbage trees. By the time they were abreast of Scarborough
Island, it grew so dark that they could not see the land;
luckily, however, the Indians lighted two very large fires which
enabled them to get entirely clear of all the islands.
23 June 1788
At six o’clock in the afternoon of the 23d, more land made its
appearance, bearing north to north-west, four leagues distant,
but night coming on, they tacked and stood to the southward.
24 June 1788
By two o’clock the next day, they were within two miles of the
land, and found it to be a chain of islands, extending from east
to nearly west for more than twenty-five leagues; and they
perceived a reef from the easternmost point of land, which ran at
least three leagues into the sea. The shore on the north-west
side of these islands is bold and steep; the Scarborough coasted
along within a mile of the land, and frequently sounded with an
hundred fathoms of line, but could get no bottom; at the same
time they saw the water break near the shore, and a vast number
of the natives were collected on the beach. About three o’clock,
a small canoe with two men in her came off from the shore, on
which Captain Marshall hove to, in order to give them an
opportunity of coming up with the ship, but when they were about
one hundred yards from the vessel, they put back again as fast as
possible, seemingly very much frightened: these men had skins
wrapped round their waists, and their hair was ornamented with
shells and beads. After they left the ship, Captain Marshall made
sail, being desirous to make the westward part of the islands if
possible before the night came on; but in this he was
disappointed, as the wind grew light and baffling. Several large
canoes now put off from the shore with eight or ten men in each;
it already has been observed that the Charlotte, Captain Gilbert,
was in company with the Scarborough; at this time she was some
distance a-stern, and the canoes all went along-side her; several
of them went on board the Charlotte, and ran fore and aft,
stealing every thing that lay in their way; one of them in
particular, got hold of the pump-break, and attempted to jump
over-board with it, but was stopped by one of the sailors. They
appeared to be very civilized, and all of them had coverings
round the waist: their ornaments were necklaces made of beads, to
which a cross was suspended, in the same manner as those worn by
the Spaniards.
25 June 1788-27 June 1788
Captain Marshall distinguished these islands by the name of
Lord Mulgrave’s Islands, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord
Mulgrave. The southernmost of them is situated in 5° 58′
north latitude, and 172° 3′ east longitude, and the
northernmost in 6° 29′ north latitude, and 171° 10′ east
longitude. At noon on the 25th, they got round the westernmost
island, and thought themselves entirely clear of them all, as the
day was very fair, and no land could be seen from the mast-head;
at the same time they had a long swell: on this, Captain Marshall
stood on under an easy sail during the night, but was very much
surprised at daylight the next morning to see land on the weather
quarter, and a large island on the lee quarter, between which
they must have passed in the night, and certainly very near that
on their lee, though they sounded every half hour, but never
struck the ground. Lord Mulgrave’s Islands abound with
cocoa-nut-trees, and they could perceive remnants of oranges and
various other sorts of fruit, although the natives offered
nothing of the sort to barter. These islanders had not any
offensive weapons whatever, so that they probably are on very
friendly terms with each other. With a light easterly breeze,
they kept their course to the northward, and at noon on the 27th,
in 7° 25′ north latitude, and 171° 10′ east longitude,
they saw land bearing from north by east to north north-west.
Having now a fresh breeze, Captain Marshall run in with the land,
and found it to be a cluster of small islands lying east and west
of each other, but no appearance was seen of their being
inhabited.
28 June 1788
At noon on the 28th, more islands were seen, bearing from
north to north-west by west, three or four leagues distant, their
latitude at that time was 8° 02′ north, and 170° 57′ east
longitude. The weather being very hazy, with constant rain, they
wore, and stood from the land; however, the afternoon proving
tolerably clear, they again stood towards it, and by four o’clock
were close in with the westernmost island. Two large canoes were
lying on a sandy beach, but they did not perceive any
inhabitants. At five o’clock they saw several more islands,
bearing north north-east, five or six leagues distant. During the
night, Captain Marshall stood under an easy sail, and at
day-light the next morning land was seen a-head bearing north by
east six leagues, and some land bearing east seventeen leagues
distant. These islands, like all they had yet seen, were very
low, and entirely covered with lofty trees; on sounding, they got
no ground with an hundred fathoms of line. Their latitude at noon
was 8° 59′ north, and 170° 24′ east longitude.
30 June 1788
At five in the afternoon, more islands were seen, bearing
north, five leagues distant, but night coming on they wore and
stood to the southward. In the forenoon of the 30th, they ran
between two islands, about five leagues distant from each other,
and surrounded by a number of breakers: by eleven o’clock they
were entirely clear of all the land. Their observation at noon
gave 9° 34′ north latitude, and the longitude was 169°
22′ east. These last islands were supposed by Captain Marshall to
be those which Lord Anson discovered, and named Barbadoes
Islands.
31 July 1788
Having now a clear navigation, they prosecuted their voyage
without meeting with any thing worthy of notice till the 31st of
July, when at six clock in the morning they saw the island of
Saypan bearing west by south six leagues distant. Having light
baffling winds, they did not get in with the land till the
approach of evening, so that the night was spent in standing off
and on. At day-light the next morning, Captain Marshall sent his
boat on shore, with the chief mate and four seamen, to procure
some refreshments, and look for anchorage. At two o’clock in the
afternoon, the boats returned loaded with cocoa-nuts and cabbage,
both, as the men reported, from the same tree, but they could
find no place for a vessel to anchor in, the water being very
deep close to the land, with a rocky bottom, and so heavy a surf
that the boat did not land without great difficulty. Not meeting
with a harbour at Sapan, the Captain determined to make the best
of his way to Tinian, where he might come to anchor and get his
sick people on shore, having no less than fifteen men laid up
with the scurvy, and the rest of his crew were so weak that they
could scarcely work the ship: the wind, however, was so variable,
that they did not reach the south-west side of that island till
afternoon on the 4th, when they anchored in twenty-five fathoms
water, and soon afterwards the Charlotte came to anchor a small
distance from the Scarborough.
5 August 1788-8 August 1788
Early the next morning, Captain Marshall sent his sick people
on shore, with a tent, and a sufficient quantity of provisions to
serve them five days. After landing the sick, and erecting their
tent, the boats crew walked about the island, and saw a great
number of cattle, hogs, and fowls, but they only caught a calf,
one hog, and a fowl or two, and loaded the boat with cocoanuts,
oranges, and limes. On the 6th, the chief mate was sent on shore
to look for fresh water; he soon found out the well, mentioned in
Lord Anson’s voyage, but it was quite dry, and there was not any
fresh water to be met with within two miles of the landing place.
The boat returned at noon, loaded with fruit of different sorts.
Toward evening the wind came round to south south-west blowing
very strong, which sent a heavy sea rolling into the bay, and
occasioned the Scarborough to pitch very much. The wind still
blowing strongly into the bay, Captain Marshall sent his boat on
shore on the 7th, to bring off the sick people, which they
accomplished with much danger and difficulty; in the mean time,
every thing was got ready for sea, the Captain being determined
to get away the moment the wind shifted to south or south by
east, so that they could clear the west part of the island.
During the night, they had so heavy a gale at south-west that
they expected every minute to be driven on shore; fortunately,
however, at day-break, the wind shifted to south south-east, on
which they immediately cut the cable and ran clear of the land:
Captain Gilbert cut both his cables and followed the Scarborough.
Scarce had they cleared the land before the wind again shifted to
south-south-west, and blew a complete hurricane, so that had the
vessels then been at anchor, they must inevitably have been
driven on shore. Though Captain Marshall’s people were on land so
short a time, they found amazing benefit from it, their strength
gradually returned, and soon afterwards they were perfectly
restored to health.
7 September 1788
No particular occurrence happened during their passage from
Tinian to China; they saw the Lema Islands in the afternoon of
the 7th of September, and came to anchor in Macao Roads the
following afternoon.
Chapter XXII.
Supplemental Account of Animals
BIRDS.
No. 139. BANKIAN COCKATOO. Order II. Pies. Genus V.
Parrot.
This is about the size of the great white cockatoo; the length
twenty-two inches. The bill is exceedingly short, and of a pale
lead-colour. The head feathers are pretty long, so as to enable
the bird to erect them into a crest at will: The colour of the
head, neck, and under parts of the body are dusky brown,
inclining to olive, darkest on the belly: the feathers of the top
of the head and back part of the neck are edged with olive; the
rest of the plumage on the upper part of the body, the wings, and
tail, are of a glossy black; the last is pretty long and a little
rounded at the end; the two middle feathers are wholly black; the
others of a fine vermilion in the middle for about one-third,
otherwise black; the outer edge of the exterior feather black the
whole length. Legs black.
This bird was met with in New South Wales, and is supposed to
be a variety, if not a different sex, from the Bankian Cockatoo
described in the General Synopsis of Birds, Supplement, p. 63.
pl. 109. It varies, however, in not having the feathers of the
head or those of the wing-coverts marked with buff-coloured
spots; nor is the red part of the tail crossed with black bars,
as in that bird.
With the above specimen was sent the head of another, which
differed in having a mixture of yellow in various parts of it. We
have been informed, that the red part of the tail in this last is
barred with black, not unlike that described by Mr. Latham in the
Synopsis. From these circumstances, it may be presumed, that this
bird is subject to great variety.
Bankian Cockatoo
RED SHOULDERED PARROT. Order II. Pies. Genus V.
This bird is about the size of the Guinea Parrakeet. Total
length ten inches and a half: the general colour of the plumage
is green, inclining to yellow on the under parts: the top of the
head, the outer edge of the wing, and some parts of the middle of
the same are deep blue: all round the base of the bill crimson,
with a mixture of the same on the fore part of the neck, but
between the bill and eye is a mixture of yellow: the shoulders,
and under parts of the wings are blood red: two or three of the
inner quills, and the vent pale red: the greater quills dusky,
fringed outwardly with yellow: the tail is greatly wedged in
shape, the feathers at the base chesnut, towards the end dull
blue: the bill and legs are brown.
This species inhabits New South Wales; and we believe it to be
hitherto non-descript.
Red Shouldered Parrakeet
CRESTED GOAT SUCKER. Order III. Passerine. Genus XLV.
This bird is somewhat smaller than our European species,
measuring only nine inches and a half in length. The general
colour of the plumage on the upper parts is dark-brown, mottled
and crossed with obscure whitish bars: the quills are plain
brown, but five or six of the outer ones marked with dusky white
spots on the outer webs: the tail is rounded in shape, and marked
with twelve narrow bars of a dusky white, mottled with black, as
are the various whitish marks on the upper parts: the under parts
of the body are more or less white; but the fore part of the neck
and breast are crossed with numerous dusky bars: the bill is
black, but the gape and within yellow; the sides of the mouth
furnished with bristles, as in other goat-suckers; besides which,
at the base of the bill are ten or twelve erect stiff bristles,
thinly barbed on their sides, and standing perfectly upright as a
crest, giving the bird a singular appearance: the legs are weak,
longer than in most of the tribe, and of a pale yellow colour;
claws brown.
New Holland Goat-sucker
NEW HOLLAND CASSOWARY. Order VI. Struthious. Genus LIX.
Cassowary.
This is a species differing in many particulars from that
generally known, and is a much larger bird, standing higher on
its legs, and having the neck longer than in the common one.
Total length seven feet two inches. The bill is not greatly
different from that of the common Cassowary; but the horny
appendage, or helmet on the top of the head, in this species is
totally wanting: the whole of the head and neck is also covered
with feathers, except the throat and fore part of the neck about
half way, which are not so well feathered as the rest; whereas in
the common Cassowary, the head and neck are bare and carunculated
as in the turkey.
The plumage in general consists of a mixture of brown and
grey, and the feathers are somewhat curled or bent at the ends in
the natural state: the wings are so very short as to be totally
useless for flight, and indeed, are scarcely to be distinguished
from the rest of the plumage, were it not for their standing out
a little. The long spines which are seen in the wings of the
common sort, are in this not observable,–nor is there any
appearance of a tail. The legs are stout, formed much as in the
Galeated Cassowary, with the addition of their being jagged or
sawed the whole of their length at the back part.
This bird is not uncommon in New Holland, as several of them
have been seen about Botany Bay, and other parts. The one from
which the plate was taken, was shot within two miles of the
settlement at Sydney Cove, and the drawing made on the spot by
Lieutenant Watts. The skin being sent over to England in spirits,
has been put into attitude, and is now the property of Sir Joseph
Banks, to whom it was presented by Lord Sydney. Although this
bird cannot fly, it runs so swiftly, that a greyhound can
scarcely overtake it. The flesh is said to be in taste not unlike
beef.
New Holland Cassowary
WHITE GALLINULE. Order VII. Cloven-footed. Genus LXXV.
This beautiful bird greatly resembles the purple Gallinule in
shape and make, but is much superior in size, being as large as a
dunghil fowl. The length from the end of the bill to that of the
claws is two feet three inches: the bill is very stout, and the
colour of it, the whole of the top of the head, and the irides
red; the sides of the head round the eyes are reddish, very
thinly sprinkled with white feathers; the whole of the plumage
without exception is white. The legs the colour of the bill.
This species is pretty common on Lord Howe’s Island, Norfolk
Island, and other places, and is a very tame species. The other
sex, supposed to be the male, is said to have some blue on the
wings.
White Gallinule
DOG OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
Genus XII. Canis.–Lin. Syst. Nat.
Genus XVII. Dog.–Penn. Hist. Quad.
The height of this species, standing erect, is rather less
than two feet: the length two feet and a half. The head is formed
much like that of a fox, the ears short and erect, with whiskers
from one to two inches in length on the muzzle. The general
colour of the upper parts is pale brown, growing lighter towards
the belly: the hind part of the fore legs, and the fore part of
the hinder ones white, as are the feet of both: the tail is of a
moderate length, somewhat bushy, but in a less degree than that
of the fox: the teeth are much the same as is usual in the genus,
as may be seen in the top of the plate where the animal is
represented.
This species inhabits New South Wales. The specimen from which
the annexed plate was taken, (a female) is now alive in the
possession of the Marchioness of Salisbury, at Hatfield-House,
and was sent over as a present to Mr. Nepean, from Governor
Phillip. It has much of the manners of the dog, but is of a very
savage nature, and not likely to change in this particular. It
laps like other dogs, but neither barks nor growls if vexed and
teized; instead of which, it erects the hairs of the whole body
like bristles, and seems furious: it is very eager after its
prey, and is fond of rabbits or chickens, raw, but will not touch
dressed meat. From its fierceness and agility it has greatly the
advantage of other animals much superior in size; for a very fine
French fox-dog being put to it, in a moment it seized him by the
loins, and would have soon put an end to his existence, had not
help been at hand. With the utmost ease it is able to leap over
the back of an ass, and was very near worrying one to death,
having fastened on it, so that the creature was not able to
disengage himself without assistance; it has been also known to
run down both deer and sheep.
A second of these is in the possession of Mr. Lascelles, of
which we have received much the same account in respect to its
ferocity; whence it is scarcely to be expected that this elegant
animal will ever become familiar.
Dog of New South Wales
SPOTTED MARTIN.
Genus XV. Mustela.–Lin. Syst. Nat.
Genus XXIII. Weesel.–Penn. Hist. Quad.
The species is about the size of a large polecat, and measures
from the tip of the nose to the setting on of the tail eighteen
inches; the tail itself being nearly the same length. The visage
is pointed in shape, and the whole make of the animal does not
ill resemble that of the Fossane. The general colour of the fur
is black, marked all over with irregular blotches of white, the
tail not excepted, which has an elegant appearance, and tapers
gradually to a point.
The situation of the teeth and jaws is much the same as in the
rest of the genus, as may be seen in the upper part of the
plate.
Inhabits the neighbourhood of Port Jackson.
Martin Cat
KANGUROO RAT.
Genus XVII. Didelphis.–Lin. Syst. Nat.
Genus XXII. Opossum.–Penn. Hist. 2uad.
The upper jaw of this species has two cutting teeth in front,
with three others on each side of them, and at a distance one
false grinder, sharp at the edge, and channelled, or fluted, on
the sides, and close to these, two true grinders: in the lower
jaw are two long cutting teeth, formed like those of the
squirrel, with three grinders, corresponding with those in the
upper jaw.
The general shape of the body is not widely different from
that of the Kanguroo, both in respect to the shortness of the
fore legs and the peculiar construction of the hind ones; but the
visage being strongly similar to that of the rat, and the colour
of the whole not ill resembling that animal, it has obtained the
name of the Kanguroo Rat.
This is an inhabitant of New Holland, and two of the species
are now to be seen alive at the curious exhibition of animals
over Exeter Exchange. One of these, being a female, has brought
forth young, one of which is represented in the same plate with
the adult animal. On the upper part of the same plate is figured
the jaw of a full grown subject.
Kanguroo Rat
THE LACED LIZARD. Genus CXXII. Lacerta.–Lin. Sist. Nat.
This most elegant species is in length, from the nose to the
end of the tail, about forty inches: in the mouth are a few weak
teeth, though rather sharp, at about a quarter of an inch
distance one from another: the tongue is long and forked: the
general shape is slender; and the ground colour of the skin, on
the upper parts, a brownish or bluish black, whimsically marked
with golden yellow; in some parts this colour is beautifully
mottled or freckled, like some kinds of lace-work; in others,
striped in various directions, particularly on the legs, which
seem as if striped across with black and white: the under parts
are yellow, crossed with single bars of black on the chin and
throat, and double clouded ones on the belly: the toes are five
in number on each foot, barred across with black and yellow, as
the legs, and each furnished with a crooked black claw: the tail
measures more in length than the whole of the body; towards the
base, clouded and marked as the rest; but the further half banded
with black and yellow, each band three inches broad, the end
running to a very sharp point.
This beautiful Lizard is not uncommon at Port Jackson, where
it is reputed a harmless species. Individuals vary much one from
another, in respect to the length of the tail, as also in the
colour of the markings; some having those parts marked with a
pure silvery white, which in the above described are yellow.
Laced Lizard
BAG-THROATED BALISTES. Genus CXXXV. Balistes.–Lin. Syst. Nat.
The size of the fish figured in the plate is uncertain, as we
have only obtained a drawing of it without any description.–It
agrees in many things with others of the genus, and does not
greatly differ from one figured in Willughby’s Icthyologia, Tab.
1. 22. but has the body longer in proportion. The erect horn or
spine is placed over, and a little behind the eyes, as in
Willughby’s figure, attended with two shorter ones directly
behind the first: the long spine is quite straight, sharp at the
point, and deeply sawed on the back part. Another singularity
presents itself in this species, which is, a deep pouch-like
appendage beneath the throat, in shape not unlike what is called
Hippocrates’s sleeve, or rather a jelly bag.
This fish is found pretty commonly on the coast of New South
Wales, and was called by the sailors the Old Wife, having much
resemblance in many things to the species so named. When skinned,
it was thought pretty good eating.
A fish of New South Wales
A FISH OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
Of this fish it can only be said, that the ground colour is
much the same as that of our mackarel, marked with several round,
blue and white spots; and that, in the plate, it is represented
faithfully from a drawing by Daniel Butler sent from New South
Wales, where it is in great plenty, and is thought to taste much
like a dolphin. As to the genus, it is difficult to say with
certainty to which it belongs, as it is deficient in the
characteristics of those generally known; it is therefore left to
the reader to settle this matter according to his own
opinion.
Fish of New South Wales
PORT JACKSON SHARK. Genus CXXXI. Squalus.–Lin. Syst. Nat.
The length of the specimen from which the drawing was taken,
is two feet; and it is about five inches and an half over at the
broadest part, from thence tapering to the tail: the skin is
rough, and the colour, in general, brown, palest on the under
parts: over the eyes on each side is a prominence, or long ridge,
of about three inches; under the middle of which the eyes are
placed: the teeth are very numerous, there being at least ten or
eleven rows; the forward teeth are small and sharp, but as they
are placed more backward, they become more blunt and larger, and
several rows are quite flat at top, forming a kind of bony
palate, somewhat like that of the Wolf-fish; differing, however,
in shape, being more inclined to square than round, which they
are in that fish: the under jaw is furnished much in the same
manner as the upper: the breathing holes are five in number, as
is usual in the genus: on the back are two fins, and before each
stands a strong spine, much as in the Prickly Hound, or Dog,
fish: it has also two pectoral, and two ventral fins; but besides
these, there is likewise an anal fin, placed at a middle distance
between the last and the tail: the tail itself, is as it were
divided, the upper part much longer than the under.
At first sight, the above might be taken for the Prickly
Hound-fish, or Squalus Spinax of Linnoeus, of which a good figure
may be seen in Willughby’s Icthyol. Tab. B. 5. f. 1, but it
differs, first, in having the prominent ridge over the eyes, of a
great length; secondly, in the formation of the teeth; thirdly,
in having an anal fin, of which the Prickly Hound is destitute;
all these circumstances concur to prove it a new species.
This was taken at Port Jackson, but to what size it may
usually arrive cannot be determined; perhaps not to a great one,
as the teeth appear very complete. Some sharks, however, of an
enormous size have been seen and caught thereabouts, though of
what sort cannot here be determined.
Port Jackson Shark
WATTS’S SHARK. Genus CXXXI. Squalus.–Lin. Syst.
This, we believe, is a species which has hitherto escaped the
researches of our Icthyologists. The length of the specimen is
nineteen inches: the head is broad, and angular in shape; but the
body rounded, and nearly equal in its dimensions for above half
the length, when it suddenly grows very small, and so continues
to the end of the tail: the colour of the body is brown in
different shades, and there are three rows of large pale spots,
of an irregular shape, most of them dark within; one row passes
down the middle, the others are on each side; besides which there
are others below them less conspicuous. The mouth is placed
nearer the end of the head than in most of the genus, and
furnished in the front with nine sharp crooked teeth, in three
rows, and a great number of small ones on each side. The eyes
project considerably above the rest of the head, and are placed
on the upper part of it; the space between is hollowed or sunk
in: at the most forward part of the head are two cartilaginous
appendages, jagged at the end, with four others, nearly similar,
on each side between the first and the breathing holes: the
pectoral fins are placed beneath these last; the abdominal about
the middle of the body; and the anal, more than half way between
the last and the tail; besides which, the under part is finned
from that place to the end: on the upper part of the body are two
fins, both placed uncommonly far back, as in the figure.
This fish was met with in Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, by
Lieutenant Watts, and is supposed to be full as voracious as any
of the genus, in proportion to its size; for after having lain on
the deck for two hours, seemingly quiet, on Mr. Watts’s dog
passing by, the shark sprung upon it with all the ferocity
imaginable, and seized it by the leg; nor could the dog have
disengaged himself had not the people near at hand come to his
assistance.
Watt’s Shark
GREAT BROWN KINGSFISHER.–Lath. Syn. ii. p. 603, No. 1.
Order II. Pies. Genus XXIII. Kingsfisher.
The length of this species is from sixteen to eighteen inches:
the bill, three inches and an half, or even more; the upper
mandible is brown, and the under white, but brown at the base:
the head is pretty full of feathers, sufficiently so to form a
crest when erected; the colour whitish, and most of the feathers
either tipped or crossed with black: the neck and under parts of
the body are much the same in colour, crossed on the sides with
dusky lines: over the forehead the colour is dusky brown, almost
black, passing backwards in an irregular shaped streak a good way
behind the eye: the back, and major part of the wing, is black or
dusky, but the middle of the wing is of a glossy blue-green, as
is also the lower part of the back and rump: the tail is barred
with pale rust-colour and black, inclining to purple, and towards
the end whitish: the legs are of a dusky yellow, the claws are
black.
These birds vary much, the colours being more or less
brilliant, and in some of them the tail is wholly barred with
white and black, and the legs brown or blackish.
This species inhabits various places in the South Seas, being
pretty common at New Guinea; but the specimen from which our
figure was taken, was sent from Port Jackson in South Wales,
where, likewise, it is not unfrequently met with. We believe it
has not yet been figured in any British work.
Great brown Kingsfisher
KANGUROO.
This very curious animal being naturally an object of
particular curiosity, we are happy to be enabled, before this
book is given to the world, to correct some errors which had
crept into our account and representation of it. In page 149 it
is stated, that the Kanguroo has four teeth (by which were meant
cutting teeth) in the upper jaw, opposed to two in the under. The
truth is, that there are six opposed to two, as may be perceived
in the engraved representation of the skeleton of a Kanguroo’s
head, inserted at page 168. The same arrangement of teeth takes
place in the Opossum, described in that page, which is there,
still more erroneously, said to have only two cutting teeth
opposed to two. This latter mistake arose from the difficulty of
examining the mouth of the living animal. It is since dead, and
the teeth are found to be disposed as now stated, and as
represented in the scull of the Vulpine Opossum, in the same
plate with that of the Kanguroo.
But the most important error is in the position of the
Kanguroo, as represented in our plate at page 106. The true
standing posture of the Kanguroo is exactly the same as that of
the Kanguroo Rat, delineated at page 277; namely, with the rump
several inches from the ground, (in large specimens, not less
than eight) and resting entirely on the long last joint of the
hinder legs, the whole under side of which is bare and callous
like a hoof. This mistake was occasioned merely by the adherence
of the engraver to the drawing from which he worked; which, among
others, came from Mr. White, the surgeon at Port Jackson: too
implicit reliance being placed on an authority which, in this
respect, turned out delusive.
With respect to the representations of the Kanguroo which have
hitherto been published, it may be observed, that nothing is
wanting to that in Captain Cook’s first voyage, except the
character of the toes of the hinder legs, and in particular the
distinguishing of a minute, but very characteristic circumstance,
in the inner claw of each, which is divided down the middle into
two, as if split by some sharp instrument. The same remark is
applicable to the plate in Mr. Pennant’s History of Quadrupeds,
which appears to have been copied from the other. Mr. Pennant was
the first author who gave a scientific description of the
Kanguroo, in his History of Quadrupeds, p. 306. No. 184. and of
the New Holland Opossum, p. 310. No. 188.
Zimmerman, in his Zoologia Geographica, p. 527, confounds the
Kanguroo with the great Jerboa of Africa, described by Allamand,
in his additions to Buffon; and by Mr. Pennant, History of
Quadrupeds, p. 432. No. 293.
Our own plate of the Kanguroo very accurately expresses the
form and character of that animal, and is deficient only in the
position, which unfortunately was not remarked till the plate was
worked off, and the book almost ready for delivery.
ANECDOTE OF CAPTAIN COOK AND O’TOO.
As nothing can be devoid of interest which relates to a man so
justly admired as Captain Cook, the reader will probably be
pleased to find here, though out of its proper place, an anecdote
communicated by Mr. Webber. It exhibits in a pleasing point of
view the friendship which subsisted between that great navigator
and the Otaheitean chief O’too, a circumstance highly to the
honour of both; since it displays in them the power of discerning
real merit, though obscured by diversity of manners, and that of
being able to impress a steady attachment, where nothing more was
to be expected than transient regard. Under every species of
disparity, goodness of heart supplies both a medium of
attraction, and an indissoluble bond of union.
Every reader must have seen with pleasure the charming proof
of O’too’s tender and inviolable friendship for Captain Cook,
which appears in page 233 of this work; where he is described as
attended by a man carrying the portrait of that illustrious
Englishman, without which he never moves from one place to
another. That portrait, as Mr. Webber assures us, was obtained in
the following manner.
O’too, by the Captain’s particular desire, sat to Mr. Webber,
in order to furnish such a memorial of his features, as might
serve for the subject of a complete whole length picture, on the
return of the ship to England. When the portrait was finished,
and O’too was informed that no more sittings would be necessary,
he anxiously enquired of Captain Cook, and Captain Clerke, what
might be the particular meaning and purpose of this painting. He
was informed, that it would be kept by Captain Cook, as a
perpetual memorial of his person, his friendship, and the many
favours received from him. He seemed pleased with the idea, and
instantly replied, that, for the very same reasons, a picture of
Captain Cook would be highly acceptable to him. This answer, so
unexpected, and expressed with strong tokens of real attachment,
made both Captain Clerke and Mr. Webber his advocates; and
Captain Cook, charmed with the natural sincerity of his manner,
complied with his request much more readily than on any other
occasion he would have granted such a favour.
When the portrait was finished it was framed, and with a box,
lock, and key, by which it was secured, was delivered to O’too;
who received it with inexpressible satisfaction. He readily, and,
as the event has proved, most faithfully promised that he would
preserve it always with the utmost care; and would show it to the
commanders of such ships as might in future touch at the Society
Islands. Who can fail to love a character like that of O’too, in
which unalterable steadiness of affection is as conspicuous, as
honest and natural ardour? Long may he enjoy his authority and
his health; and preserve the honourable memorial of his friend,
without being afflicted by the knowledge of that melancholy
catastrophe which terminated the career of his glory!
With respect to the yellow gum, or resin, mentioned in page
60, we are informed by Dr. Blane, physician to St. Thomas’s
Hospital, that he has found it remarkably efficacious in the cure
of old fluxes; and this not only in a few instances, but in many
obstinate cases. Of the plants in general which have been brought
from Botany Bay, and the adjacent country, no notice has been
taken in this work, as it would have led to such a detail as must
too considerably have extended its limits. Many of them are now
to be seen in the highest perfection at the nursery gardens of
that eminent and learned botanist, Mr. Lee, of Hammersmith: who
still retains enough of zeal for his favourite science, to regret
that the discovery of those countries was not made at a period of
his life, when he could have gone personally to reap the glorious
harvest they afford.
The following account of the weather in Botany Bay and Port
Jackson, communicated by Lieutenant Watts, may perhaps be found
important.
During the seven days we were in Botany Bay the weather was
generally fine, and very warm. The thermometer on a mean stood at
78°. it never exceeded 80°. and one day, which was thick
and rainy, the wind blowing strongly from the south, it fell to
63°. In Port Jackson the weather was at first much the same,
but afterwards, the days became very hot, and the nights
constantly brought on tremendous thunder, lightning, and rain.
The thermometer, at eleven o’clock in the forenoon, was generally
about 80°. but when the sea breezes set in it usually fell
two or three degrees. One very sultry day was felt soon after the
arrival of the fleet. The thermometer, on board, stood at
88°. and on shore, though in the shade, at 92°. On the
15th of March was a terrible squall of wind, accompanied by
thunder, lightning, and rain. The thermometer then fell from
80° to 50°. and in other squalls it frequently fell 15 or
20 degrees.
Such are the principal notices hitherto received from the new
settlement on the southern continent, which, if from unavoidable
circumstances, they are a little deficient in point of order,
will, it is hoped, make ample amends by their novelty,
importance, and authenticity.
BLACK FLYING OPOSSUM.
Genus XVII. Didelphis. Lin. Syst. Nat.
Genus XXII. Opossum. Penn. Hist. Quad.
The following is, according to every appearance, a new animal
of this genus. The length from the tip of the nose, which is
pointed in shape, to the root of the tail, is twenty inches; of
the tail itself twenty-two inches, at the base quite light,
increasing gradually to black at the end: the width across the
loins sixteen inches: the ears are large and erect: the coat or
fur is of a much richer texture or more delicate than the
sea-otter of Cook’s River: on the upper parts of the body, at
first sight, appearing of a glossy black, but on a nicer
inspection, is really what the French call petit gris, or
minever, being mixed with grey; the under parts are white, and on
each hip may be observed a tan-coloured spot, nearly as big as a
shilling; at this part the fur is thinnest, but at the root of
the tail it is so rich and close that the hide cannot be felt
through it. The fur is also continued to the claws: the membrane,
which is expanded on each side of the body, is situated much as
in the grey species, though broader in proportion. The jaws are
furnished with teeth, placed as in some others of this genus: in
the upper jaw forwards are four small cutting teeth, then two
canine ones, and backwards five grinders: the under jaw has two
long large cutting teeth, like the Vulpine Opossum, [See skeleton
on the plate at page 168.] five grinders, with no intermediate
canine ones, the space being quite vacant. The fore legs have
five toes on each foot, with a claw on each; the hinder ones four
toes, with claws, (the three outside ones without any separation)
and a thumb without a claw, enabling the animal to use the foot
as a hand, as many of the opossum tribe are observed to do. See
the skeleton of the foot in the annexed plate.
This beautiful quadruped inhabits New South Wales. The
specimen from which the above account has been taken, is a male,
and the property of Henry Constantine Nowell, Esq. of Shiplake,
in Oxfordshire. The fur of it is so beautiful, and of so rare a
texture, that should it hereafter be found in plenty, it might
probably be thought a very valuable article of commerce.
Black flying Opossum
APPENDIX
Table I. Route of the Alexander, Lieutenant Shortland, from
the Cape of Good Hope to Botany Bay
Table II. Route of the Supply, Lieut. Ball, after parting with
the Alexander, to Botany Bay
Table III. Route of the Supply, Lieut. Ball, from Port Jackson to
Norfolk Island
Table IV. Route of the Supply from Norfolk Island to Port
Jackson
Table V. Route of the Supply from Port Jackson to Lord Howe
Island, and from thence to Port Jackson
Table VI. Route of the Alexander, Lieut. Shortland, from Port
Jackson to Batavia
Table VII. Route of the Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, from Port
Jackson to Otaheite
Table VIII.Route of the Lady Penrhyn, Capt. Sever, from Otaheite
to China
Table IX. Route of the Scarborough, Capt. Marshall, from Port
Jackson to China
[The first page of the Tables of the Routes taken by ships of
the First Fleet after leaving Port Jackson is reproduced above. A
further 52 pages of such tables are not included in this
ebook.]