C. F. ADAMS.     O. C. YOCUM.     J. M. KEENE.
C. H. GOVE.     N. W. DURHAM.     W. G. STEEL.     J. M. BRECK, JR.

THE
MOUNTAINS
OF OREGON

BY

W. G. STEEL,

Fellow of the American Geographical Society.

PORTLAND, OREGON:
DAVID STEEL, SUCCESSOR TO HIMES THE PRINTER,
169-1/2 Second Street.

1890.

[Pg 1]

Copyright, 1889, by W. G. Steel.

Preface.

This little volume has not been written with the
expectation of accomplishing a mission, or even attracting
general attention, but simply to put into permanent
form a small portion of information that is constantly
appearing in newspaper articles. Such information
usually comes from abler pens than mine, but it is all the
more pity that it is not in proper shape for future use.
If it amuses, entertains or instructs those who peruse it,
its aim will be accomplished, and its author satisfied.

There is, however, a word of explanation due for the
manner in which it is arranged. It was not begun with
the intention of publishing a book, but in response to
numerous requests received for descriptions of Crater
Lake and Mt. Hood. As it was impossible at the time to
answer them satisfactorily, it was decided to print a letter
on each subject, and issue as a small pamphlet. Before
this was accomplished the discovery was made that the
space allotted was entirely inadequate, so, acting on the
advice of friends, this form was adopted; too late, however,
to prevent the present arrangement.

W. G. S.

[Pg 2]

CONTENTS.

• PAGE
• Crater Lake 12
• Exploration Department, Oregon Alpine Club 73
• Game Protective Department, Oregon Alpine Club 77
• Illumination of Mount Hood 3
• Josephine County Caves 34
• Mount Rainier 55
• Night on the Summit of Mount Rainier 43
• Oregon Alpine Club 67
• Oregon Alpine Club, Constitution 69
• Oregon Bibliography 85
• Our Mountains in War 40
• Photographic Department, Oregon Alpine Club 79
• Preface 1
• Presidents of the Oregon Alpine Club 82
• Statement of Rev. Peter Stanup 57
• Thoughts on the name Tacoma 59
• Topical Index 109
• What They Signify 52

[Pg 3]

ILLUMINATION OF MOUNT HOOD.

Mount Hood is located in the Cascade range
in Oregon, twenty-five miles south of the Columbia
river. It is about twelve thousand feet high,
and is visible over a large part of the State. Above an
elevation of five thousand feet it is covered with perpetual
snow. It stands sixty miles east of Portland, a
monument of beauty, and the pride of Oregon. In the
spring of 1885 the idea originated of illuminating it
with red fire. An effort was made to carry this into
effect on the following 4th of July, but failed for the
reason that, instead of staying with it over night, a
system of clock work and acids was devised, which was
perfectly willing to do the work assigned, but an ugly
avalanche came along at four o’clock in the afternoon,
broke the bottles of acid and set the whole thing
ablaze. In 1887, the Celebration Committee of Portland,
decided to make the trial, and placed the matter
in charge of the writer, who was accompanied by
N. W. Durham, correspondent of the Oregonian, O.
C. Yocum, photographer, Dr. J. M. Keene, J. M.
Breck, Jr., C. H. Gove and Chas. F. Adams. More
agreeable, determined and competent associates I never
met. Breck was a cripple, finding it necessary at all
times to walk with a crutch, yet, a better mountain
climber is hard to find.[Pg 4]

Everything being placed in readiness, we left Portland
at 6 o’clock a.m., Friday July 1st, and reached
Government Camp at 5 o’clock in the afternoon of
the second. From this point, the mountain rises to
the north in all its beauty and grandeur, with timber
line apparently within a few rods, instead of four
miles, the actual distance. Here the wagons were left,
and two horses were packed with blankets and provisions,
and our journey was resumed as soon as possible.
It was necessary to cross two small streams, over both
of which the bridges had fallen, so we were compelled
to carry logs and fill in until it was possible to get the
horses over. About nine o’clock, finding that we
could not reach timber line, it was decided to camp on
some friendly rocks near at hand. Here we found
the trees thickly covered with a long, dry moss, which
afforded excitement for the evening, for, no sooner
had the inner man’s longings been supplied, than
lighted matches were applied to the moss, which
blazed furiously until it died out in the distance, simply
for the want of material. The scene, while it lasted,
was indeed brilliant, and accompanied by a roar that
seemed but the echo of thunder. Already exhausted,
after three hours plodding through snow knee deep,
we sank to rest and slept soundly until four o’clock.
At five we were on our way, somewhat surprised to see
that the snow remained as soft as on the evening before.
In addition to the difficulty of sinking each step nearly
to our knees, each man was loaded with fifty pounds of
blankets, provisions or red fire, while three tugged sav[Pg 5]agely
at a heavily loaded toboggan. At noon we
lunched at timber line. It was hardly a sumptuous
repast, but answered every requirement, there being
canned Boston brown bread and beef tea, mixed with
snow and seasoned with smoke. Not a dainty dish,
to be sure, but “the best the market afforded.” After
lunch we dragged our weary way along, among other
difficulties encountering a bitter cold wind, blowing
directly from the summit with fearful velocity. Slower
and slower we moved, until three o’clock, when two
men fell in their tracks utterly exhausted. Here
was a “pretty kettle of fish.” Barely seven thousand
feet up, with five thousand feet more above, and
only one day in which to climb. It was finally decided
to make camp on the nearest rocks, abandon all idea
of reaching the summit, then, on the day following,
find the best place possible for the illumination. Two
thousand feet above timber line we camped on rocks,
over which the cold wind swept, penetrating to the
very marrow. Of course it was impossible to have a
fire, and at night it was necessary to pile large stones
on our blankets to keep them from sailing down the
mountain. Hats and a few other things were anchored
in like manner.

The “Glorious Fourth” was ushered in, clear and
cold, while a patriot in the party, not to be outdone
by Uncle Sam, saluted the rising sun with a deafening
round of fire cracker artillery. At five o’clock we
started on our upward march. Every thing was left
behind except one hundred pounds of red fire, three[Pg 6]
overcoats and a few crackers. At 11:30 a.m., bare
rocks were found to the west of the summit, in what
was considered a good location, and at an altitude of
about ten thousand feet. Here our burdens were cast
at the foot of the cliff, and all hands, except Keene
and myself, returned to Government Camp. By noon
the wind had died down entirely, and the day became
very pleasant. While waiting at this lonely station
for the appointed hour of illumination, a panorama
was spread before us, of a scope and magnificence that
cannot be appropriately described, but must be seen
to be appreciated. Yes, and it remains for those who
love the beautiful and grand sufficiently to scale mountains,
to toil on day after day, patiently waiting for
the time that is sure to come, when the glorious pages
of Nature will be unrolled before them. Then,

The scene embraces millions of acres of land in
Eastern Oregon, extending from the Cascades to the
Blue mountains, a distance of over one hundred and
fifty miles. The entire range of the Cascades lies before
us, showing the foothills of both Eastern and
Western Oregon, and the increase in height toward
the center. For miles upon miles to the south, cross
ranges, running from east to west seem piled one upon
the other, and to their tops is added a covering of snow,
changing the solemn, otherwise unbroken, dark green,
to a variegated picture, not only of grandeur, but
beauty. To the left of the centre stands Jefferson,[Pg 7]
similar to Hood as seen from Portland. Next come
the Three Sisters to the left of Jefferson, while still
further stands Snow Butte. Almost in front of Jefferson
is Washington, while to the right McLaughlin
looms up in southern Oregon, two hundred and fifty
miles distant. Changing the view to western Oregon,
we see Mary’s Peak over one hundred miles southwest.
The Willamette valley can be seen through its
entire extent of many miles, while here and there we
catch glimpses of the river flowing on to the lordly Columbia.
Along the western horizon extends the Coast
Range, while in one little spot the mountains break
way and give us a vista of the ocean. In the immediate
foreground lies the base of old Hood, white with
snow for five thousand feet below us. To witness a
scene like this many a man would circle the globe;—and
yet, imagine a sunset upon it. At 5:30 p.m. clouds
drifted from the north and hung on the points of
the range a mile below. Slowly the sun sank to rest,
while the clouds hovering over the western horizon
became brighter and brighter, until it seemed that
the very gates of heaven were thrown wide open, and
over a scene of unrivaled grandeur was spread another
of marvelous magnificence. As if Nature was not even
yet satisfied with such dazzling beauty, suddenly the
smoke that had gathered far below us, shutting out
the great Columbia, was drawn aside and the waters
of that river seemed, through the thin smoke remaining,
like a stream of molten gold, visible in an
unbroken line, winding from the mountain to the sea[Pg 8]
a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. Then, too,
as we looked, just beneath the setting sun, the Pacific
ocean came to view, while the sun was setting in the
mouth of the Columbia, reflecting its ruddy glare in
the ocean and river at one and the same time. To
the right could be seen Cape Disappointment, while
to the left Point Adams showed with equal clearness.
So closed the day and the night came on.

Far above the few clouds that lurked beneath us,
threatening the success of our experiment, the atmosphere
was so perfectly clear that we thought its equal
had never been seen. Promptly with the departing
day the full moon arose in all its beauty, changing
the day’s brilliance to a subdued halo of glory. About
seven o’clock the wind blew furiously, almost carrying
us from the rocks to the snow beneath. Although
clad for a land of wintry blasts, it was necessary to
pace back and forth, swinging our arms and jumping
to keep warm. At eight o’clock the wind died down,
and we became comfortable without exercise. Our
spirits were low, however, for it seemed that the entire
country was covered with a thick veil of smoke, and
our labor was to be in vain. Suddenly at 9:30 we saw
a red light in the direction of Portland. It was the
signal for a complete revolution in our feelings. We
danced for joy. Yes, we screamed and halloed until
we were hoarse. Did all sorts of silly things, for
now we knew our fire would be seen. Following the
first light came another, and still others, and in our
mad excitement we took a handful of red fire and
burned it on a rock. “Thereby hangs a tale.”[Pg 9]

The members of our party at Government camp
were gathered around a cheerful fire telling bear
stories and waiting patiently for the appointed time,
when they were startled by a brilliant light from the
mountain, showing through the trees in front of them.
Instantly they scattered, every member forgetting
his companions in a wild scramble for a good view.
In this sudden stampede, one member, who is hard
of hearing, climbed a tree, where he remained until
the others began to assemble. As one of the drivers,
a hardy son of Erin, passed the tree and heard a rustling
in the branches, he glanced up, saw a large, dark
object, took it for a bear and gave the alarm. Instantly
all hands gathered around the tree, every one
armed with a club, which he swung like the arms of
a windmill, at the same time shouting for some one
else to get a gun. The man up a tree, not understanding
why the commotion should extend so long after
the burning of red fire, started to go down, but, was
met with such a lively rain of clubs that he beat a
precipitate retreat. At this point, a gun arrived and
every fellow wanted to shoot the bear. Bruin, at last
comprehending the situation, chimed in with: “You
fellows let up with your durned foolishness, will you.”

Soon after the red fire and rockets at Portland
were noticed, others were seen at Prineville, seventy-five
miles to the southeast, and also at Vancouver,
W. T. These were watched with the most intense
interest, until the time arrived to make our own novel
show. The red fire was placed in a narrow ridge[Pg 10]
about ten feet long, and at right angles with Portland.
Holding my watch before me, promptly at 11:30 we
applied the match with the result as shown by the
following account in the Oregonian of the next day:

“The celebration closed with the illumination of
Mount Hood, the grandest and most unique event of
the day. Precisely at 11:30, the time appointed, just as
the fireworks display was over, a bright red light shone
away up in the clouds above the eastern horizon,
which was greeted with cheers from the thousands
congregated on the bridge, wharves, roofs, boats on the
river and on the hills back of town, and with vigorous
and long-continued whistling from every steamboat
on the river.

“The mountain had been plainly visible all day,
but toward evening a curtain of mist and smoke shut
off the view at the base, and as twilight fell, the curtain
rose higher till at last only the very peak could
be seen, and as night came on, even that disappeared
from view. Many gave up all hope of seeing any
sign from the mountain. But many thought that the
obstructions to a view of the summit were very slight,
and if the party had reached the peak, the light from
one hundred pounds of red fire would be able to pierce
through them, and so it proved. It lasted exactly
fifty-eight seconds. This was the most novel and
the highest illumination ever made, and was seen
the farthest and formed a fitting close to the celebration
of 1887.”

Immediately after the illumination we started[Pg 11]
down the mountain, following our previous trail in
the snow. Just after midnight, while lunging through
the snow, we suddenly lost our footing and were no
little astonished to find that we had fallen into a crevasse.
It proved narrow and shallow, however, and
all things considered, we extricated ourselves with remarkable
celerity and passed on down the mountain
side, only to get lost in the timber below, and wander
around until daylight, when we found camp and soon
after were homeward bound.[Pg 12]

CRATER LAKE.

ONE OF THE WORLD’S GREAT NATURAL WONDERS.

A Trip to Crater Lake is, to a lover of the grand
and beautiful in nature, an important event,
around which will ever cluster memories of unalloyed
happiness, thoughts of little adventures and
weird experiences that go to make life worth living.
It is situated in the northwest portion of Klamath
county, Oregon, twenty-two miles west of north of
Fort Klamath, and about eighty miles northeast of
Medford, which is the best point to leave the Oregon &
California railroad. The Jacksonville and Fort Klamath
military road passes the lake within three miles,
and the road to the very walls of it is an exceptionally
good one for a mountainous country, while in near
proximity may be found remarkably fine camping
grounds.

The Indians of Southern Oregon have known
of it for ages, but until recently none have seen it, for
the reason that a tradition, handed down from generation
to generation, described it as the home of
myriads of sea-devils, or, as they were called, Llaos;
and it was considered certain death for any brave
even to look upon it. This superstition still haunts
the Klamaths. While a few of the tribe have visited[Pg 13]
it, they do so with a sort of mysterious dread of the
consequences. It was discovered by a party of twelve
prospectors on June 12th, 1853, among whom were J.
W. Hillman, George Ross, James Louden, Pat McManus,
Isaac Skeeters and a Mr. Dodd. These had
left the main party, and were not looking for gold, but
having run short of provisions, were seeking wherewithal
to stay the gnawing sensations that had seized
upon their stomachs. For a time hunger forsook them,
as they stood in silent amazement upon the cliffs,
and drank in the awe of the scene stretched before
them. After partaking of the inspiration fostered
by such weird grandeur, they decided to call it Mysterious,
or Deep Blue Lake. It was subsequently called
Lake Majesty, and by being constantly referred to
as a crater lake, it gradually assumed that name, which
is within itself so descriptive.

At times when gazing from the surrounding wall,
the skies and cliffs are seen perfectly mirrored in the
smooth and glassy surface over which the mountain
breeze creates scarce a ripple, and it is with great
difficulty the eye can distinguish the line dividing
the cliffs from their reflected counterfeits. The lake
is almost egg-shaped, ranging northeast by southwest
and is seven miles long by six in width. The water’s
surface is six thousand two hundred and fifty-one feet
above sea level, and is completely surrounded by
cliffs, or walls, from one thousand to over two thousand
feet high, which are scantily covered with coniferous
trees. To the southwest is Wizard Island, eight[Pg 14]
hundred and forty-five feet high, circular in shape,
and slightly covered with timber. In the top is a
depression, or crater—the Witches’ Cauldron—one
hundred feet deep and four hundred and seventy-five
feet in diameter. This was evidently the last
smoking chimney of a once mighty volcano. The base
of the island is covered with very heavy and hard
rocks, with sharp and unworn edges, over which
scarcely a score of human feet have trod. Farther up
are deep beds of ashes, and light, spongy rocks and
cinders, giving evidence of intense heat. Within the
crater, as without, the surface is entirely covered with
volcanic rocks, but here it forms one of the hottest
places on a clear day in August, it has ever been
my lot to witness. Not a breath of air seems to enter,
and the hot sun pours down upon thousands of rocks
and stones that reflect his rays with an intensity that
seems to multiply beyond conception. Here, however,
we determined to lunch—and did—but one such experience
will last a long time. Directly north of the
island is Llao Rock, a grand old sentinel, standing
boldly out on the west side of the lake and reaching
up over two thousand feet perpendicular. From the
top of it you can drop a stone and it will pass down
and grow smaller and smaller, until your head begins
to swim and you see the stone become a mere speck,
and fade entirely from view; and at last, nearly half a
mile below, it strikes the unruffled surface of the water
and sinks forever from sight in the depth of a bottomless
lake.[Pg 15]

There is probably no point of interest in America
that so completely overcomes the ordinary Indian
with fear as Crater Lake. From time immemorial,
no power has been strong enough to induce him to
approach within sight of it. For a paltry sum he will
engage to guide you thither, but, before you reach the
mountain top, will leave you to proceed alone. To the
savage mind it is clothed with a deep veil of mystery,
and is the abode of all manner of demons and
unshapely monsters. Once inhabited by the Great
Spirit, it has now become the sheol of modern times,
and it is certain death for any proud savage to behold
it. This feeling has, to a certain extent, instilled
itself in the mind of such whites as have made it
their Mecca, until every stray log that floats upon
the water is imagined to possess life, and may possibly
be a monster. Exaggerated accounts of different
points have been given and implicitly believed without
a question or reflection. It has been claimed that the
crater was eight hundred feet deep, while by actual
measurement we found it to be scarcely a hundred.
The island was said to be fifteen hundred feet high,
but an accurate measurement placed it at just eight
hundred and forty-five feet.

From Allen Davey, Chief of the Klamath tribe, I
gleaned the following in reference to the discovery of
Crater Lake:

A long time ago, long before the white man appeared
in this region to vex and drive the proud native
out, a band of Klamaths, while out hunting, came[Pg 16]
suddenly upon the lake and were startled by its remarkable
walls and awed by its majestic proportions.
With spirits subdued and trembling with fear, they
silently approached and gazed upon its face; something
within told them the Great Spirit dwelt there,
and they dared not remain, but passed silently down
the side of the mountain and camped far away. By
some unaccountable influence, however, one brave was
induced to return. He went up to the very brink of
the precipice and started his camp fire. Here he laid
down to rest; here he slept till morn—slept till the
sun was high in air, then arose and joined his tribe
far down the mountain. At night he came again;
again he slept till morn. Each visit bore a charm that
drew him back again. Each night found him sleeping
above the rocks; each night strange voices arose from
the waters; mysterious noises filled the air. At last,
after a great many moons, he climbed down to the
lake and there he bathed and spent the night. Often
he climbed down in like manner, and frequently
saw wonderful animals, similar in all respects to a
Klamath Indian, except that they seemed to exist
entirely in the water. He suddenly became hardier
and stronger than any Indian of his tribe because
of his many visits to the mysterious waters. Others
then began to seek its influence. Old warriors sent
their sons for strength and courage to meet the
conflicts awaiting them. First, they slept on the
rocks above, then ventured to the water’s edge, but
last of all they plunged beneath the flood and the[Pg 17]
coveted strength was theirs. On one occasion, the
brave who first visited the lake, killed a monster, or
fish, and was at once set upon by untold numbers of
excited Llaos (for such they were called), who carried
him to the top of the cliffs, cut his throat with a
stone knife, then tore his body in small pieces,
which were thrown down to the waters far beneath,
where he was devoured by the angry Llaos—and such
shall be the fate of every Klamath brave, who, from
that day to this, dares to look upon the lake.

My first visit to Crater Lake was in 1885, at
which time the thought was suggested by Capt. C. E.
Dutton, of having the lake and environs drawn from
the market. Promptly acting on the suggestion, my
friend, Hon. Binger Hermann, was sought and a
movement started looking to the formation of a National
Park. In response to a petition forwarded to
Washington and ably advocated by Congressman
Hermann, the United States Geological Survey, under
Capt. Dutton, was ordered to examine the lake and surroundings
during the summer of 1886. In this expedition
it was my good fortune to have charge of the
sounding, which afforded me a pleasure unsurpassed
in all my mountain experience.

That an idea may be had of the difficulties to be
overcome, suffice it to say, boats had to be built for
the purpose in Portland, transported to Ashland,
three hundred and forty-one miles by rail, and carried
from there to the lake on wagons, one hundred miles[Pg 18]
into the mountains, where they were launched over
cliffs one thousand feet high.

On the first day of July, I boarded the train for
Ashland, where I met Capt. Dutton, and we were
joined immediately afterward by Capt. Geo. W. Davis,
one of the most eminent engineers of America, and ten
soldiers. On the 7th, we started for the lake, preceded
by Capts. Dutton and Davis, who were followed by
a four mule team, bearing a first-class lap streak
boat, which in turn was followed by three double
teams, horsemen and pack train. Of our largest boat,
the Cleetwood, we all felt justly proud, as it was certainly
a beautiful model, four-oared, twenty-six feet
long and competent to ride almost any sea.

When passing through Phœnix, the typical and
irrepressible critic came to the surface, in the shape of
a lean, lank, awkward, ignorant country boy of, say,
eighteen summers. With hands in his pockets, he
aided the single suspender delegated to hold his
breeches in place, and when shifting a monstrous chew
of tobacco over his tongue, informed his audience
(of half a dozen small urchins) that “That ‘ere boat
won’t live in Crater Lake half an hour if a storm
comes up. It ain’t shaped right. Jist see for yourself
how sway-backed it is. It must have been made by
some feller as never seed a boat afore.” This brings
to mind the fact that a critic is a person who finds
fault with something of which he is densely ignorant.

The entire distance from Ashland—ninety-seven
miles—was accomplished by slow, easy marches, every[Pg 19]
precaution being taken to provide against a mishap,
and no incident occurred of special importance. Soon
after reaching the foothills, we encountered sliding
places and short turns in the road. As the wagon
containing the Cleetwood was top heavy and coupled
twenty feet long, it was impossible to turn on an
ordinary curve, hence it became necessary at times
to drive as far as possible, then let ten or fifteen men
lift the hind end of the wagon around by main
strength. When a sliding place was reached, the
men would hang on the upper side, or attach ropes
to the top and hold it, thus preventing an upset.
On Tuesday we succeeded in reaching the foot of the
last grade, and on Wednesday morning began the
ascent. Here was the rub. The hill is about a mile
and a half long, very steep, sliding, rocky, and filled
with roots and stones, added to which were great
banks of snow, packed solid by constant thawing.
Progress was slow and tedious, a roadway having to be
cut in places, while men with picks, axes and shovels
dug up rocks, cut down trees and shoveled snow, besides
building up or cutting down one side of the roadway.
At 10 o’clock on Wednesday the 14th, the boats
were landed on the walls of the lake, having traveled
four hundred and forty miles from Portland,
with scarcely a scratch to mar the paint.

Thursday morning the work of launching was
commenced by covering the bottom of each skiff with
inch boards, firmly secured, as also a shield in front
of the bow. They were carried to the lowest place[Pg 20]
to be found in the cliffs, probably about nine hundred
feet, vertical measurement, where a canyon descends
at an angle of thirty-five or forty degrees, when a three-quarter
inch rope was attached and in turn passed
around a tree on the summit, where a man was stationed
to manage it, directed by signals below. One
was lowered at a time, accompanied by four men
to guide and handle it. Besides this, men were stationed
at different points to signal to the top, and thus
regulate the paying out of rope. Every effort was
made to send all loose stones on ahead, to prevent accident
from above, yet, before the first boat had proceeded
three hundred feet in its descent, a boulder
came rolling from near the summit with increasing
velocity, and before any one realized the danger, had
struck a rock in near proximity and bounded over
the skiff, passed between the men and within an inch
of one fellow’s head. Before the descent was completed,
the boards were torn from the first boat; but
extra precaution was taken with the second one.
About two-thirds of the way down a perfect shower
of rocks came tumbling from a cliff to the left, but,
strange as it may seem, they either bounded over or
around the men and boat, so that no damage resulted.
At three o’clock the first skiff reached bottom somewhat
scratched, but not injured in any manner. The
second one was placed in the lake entirely uninjured
at six o’clock p.m.

Our tents were pitched in a beautiful spot. In the
immediate foreground to the north lies the lake with[Pg 21]
its twenty odd miles of rugged cliffs standing abruptly
from the water’s edge. To the left is Wizard Island,
on the top of which rests the Witch’s Cauldron, or
crater, like a great flat top; beyond stands Llao Rock,
solemn, grim and grand, over two thousand feet
perpendicular, while still beyond stands Mt. Thielsen,
the lightning rod of the Cascades. Just to the east
of the lake is Mt. Scott, partly covered with snow,
while close to the camp on the east, is a high cliff
known as Cathedral Rock, running far down to the
right and at last disappearing below the tree tops.
To the south the scene was varied by a wide range of
mountain tops, stretching far away to California, chief
among which is snow-capped and beautiful Pitt.
Just to the left the rough mountain view is changed
to a charming plain, in the midst of which is a broad
expanse of water, which proves to be Klamath Lake,
about thirty miles distant. Thursday evening, dark
and threatening clouds were suddenly seen to approach
from this point, accompanied by vivid flashes of lightning
and loud peals of thunder. A few large drops of
rain had fallen, when there was a sudden outburst of
joy in camp, as every one glanced at the sides of
Cathedral Rock, which were suddenly illuminated by
a light of deep orange. To the west, the sun was
slowly sinking to rest, when a glowing light spread
itself over the dark clouds, which became brighter
and still brighter. Looking beyond a scene of unparalleled
magnificence was spread before us. Through
the center hung long fleecy clouds lighted to a deep[Pg 22]
orange, while above, like a great curtain, was spread a
belt of olive green. Here and there were tints of crimson,
the delicacy of which no artist could approach.
Above and parallel with the horizon stretched a long
rift, in clouds rendered marvelously rich in gold and
garnet, through which the blue sky beyond was visible,
slightly obscured by light, fleecy clouds of silver.
During all this magnificent sight the electric storm
raged in the south with unabated fury, flashes of
lightning and peals of thunder adding solemnity to a
scene of wonderful brilliance.

The 16th was spent in preparing the Cleetwood
for her final plunge over the cliffs in search of
water. A sled was made of very heavy timbers, on
which she was placed, keel up, then lashed and
braced in every conceivable manner until, in fact, she
seemed a part of the sled itself. Guy ropes were
placed on each corner to guide it, in connection with
a heavy handspike. Saturday morning the actual
work of launching began, by sliding the boat over a
snowdrift in a canyon that slopes to the lake at about
an angle of fifty degrees. The cliff is probably one
thousand feet high at this point. The sled was attached
by block and tackle to a tree on the summit
and lowered nearly half way, when the bearing was
shifted as far down as possible and a new start taken.
Leaving the summit at 7:30 a.m., it required the most
persistent work and constant care of fifteen men
eight hours to reach the lake. In the bottom of the
canyon flows a stream of water that contributes very[Pg 23]
materially to the danger of such an undertaking, as
constant slides of rocks are thus caused. When the
bottom seemed to be reached it was found that there
still remained a sort of jump-off, or slide, into the
water, perpendicular and about fifteen feet high. The
water, at this point is very deep, and the question
arose, “How shall we launch the boat now that we
have got it here?” It was simply turned right side
up again, lashed to the sled and let partially down
with the bow thrown out as far as possible. It was
held securely in this position while one of the men
climbed aboard, cut the lines and she shot forward
in fine style, not shipping a gallon of water, although
the bow was almost submerged to start with. The
moment the launching was complete there was a cry
of unrestrained joy sent up from all present, and our
shouts were answered from the cliffs by waving of
hats and blowing of fog horns. With one impulse
the cry was raised, “Now for the island!” and in an
incredibly short space of time both skiffs and the
Cleetwood were headed that way. With four men
at the oars we soon reached our destination, and then
returned to camp, where a bountiful repast awaited us.

Every precaution was taken to clear the canyon of
loose rocks, nevertheless a few rolled down, but were
successfully dodged until the boat was actually in the
water, immediately after which a small bowlder came
down with terrific force. Capt. Davis stood directly
in its course, and not seeing it the other members of
the party shouted to him to “lookout.” It being im[Pg 24]possible
for him to run, he jumped under the framework,
or sled, hanging where the boat left it, and laid
flat on the ground, just as the stone struck a rock and
the upper end of the frame. It then struck Capt. Davis
in the back, but its force had been so broken that it
did no harm further than to make the spot feel sore.

The day after launching the Cleetwood, nine members
of our party made the circuit of the lake on a
sort of casual observation, or tour of inspection. The
scenery was grand to a degree far beyond our most
sanguine expectations. Four strong oarsmen soon
brought us to Llao Rock, and as we gazed in silent
wonder at its rugged sides, reaching nearly half a
mile above us, for the first time did we realize the
immensity of such a spectacle. Never before did I
fully understand the meaning of figures when they
run up into the thousands of feet, vertical measurement.
Beyond Llao rock we found a beautiful little
bay, and beyond it a larger one, probably one mile
long by a quarter of a mile deep. Here we stopped for
lunch, and when landing were surprised to find a long
line of dead moths, of large variety, washed up by the
waves, and in such numbers that the air was laden
with an unpleasant odor, apparently about a first
cousin to a slaughter house. We also found here a narrow
beach of small gravel running almost the entire
length of the bay, while further out in the lake, the
bottom is composed of sand. As this point had not
only never been named, but probably was never before
visited by human beings, we decided to christen it[Pg 25]
Cleetwood Cove. Passing on our journey, it was soon
seen that the cliffs on the north side are not so high as
those to the south. In several places it appeared that
good trails could easily be made to the water’s edge,
over which a person might almost ride horseback,
and in one place, without any grading whatever, a
good pack train could descend with comparative ease.
About 2 o’clock a thunder shower came suddenly
upon us just as two beautiful grottos appeared in view.
Into one of these the boat was run, where we were entirely
beyond the reach of rain. It proved to be about
thirty feet deep and twenty wide, with an arched
roof probably eight feet above the water, while the
rocky bottom could be distinctly seen ten feet below
the surface. So perfect was its form that it almost
seemed the hand of man had hewn it from the solid
rock. Beyond it towered an immense cliff, very high,
with broken, rugged sides, picturesque and sublime,
which I insist on naming Dutton Cliff, in honor of
Capt. Dutton, who has done and is doing so much to
make Crater Lake justly famous. This point may be
known from the fact that it lies directly opposite
Llao Rock, and between the two lowest places in the
lake’s walls. Immediately north of Dutton Cliff, the
elements have worn the sides of the mountain, leaving
a harder substance, alternately colored red and yellow,
resembling the mansard roof of a cottage, while in
one place, tall red chimneys stand aloft, making, all in
all, such a scene that Cottage Rock could scarcely be
improved on for a name. Lying between the two[Pg 26]
points above referred to, a break in the wall was
found, that is almost perpendicular, but certainly
does not exceed five hundred feet in height. This is
by far the lowest point in the walls.

No time was lost in getting our soundings under
way. The first was made about one hundred yards
from shore. It was supposed that we might possibly
find as much as one hundred feet of water, but, as the
lead ran out, our excitement grew with each succeeding
hundred feet, until over one thousand two hundred
feet were out. At one thousand two hundred
feet the machine stopped, and our pent-up feelings exploded
in one wild yell of delight. For a number of
days the soundings were continued. The greatest
depth recorded was one thousand nine hundred and
ninety-six feet, which, making allowance for stretch
of wire, would give two thousand and eight feet. Of
the whole number made, eighteen are over one thousand
nine hundred, thirteen over one thousand eight
hundred, eleven over one thousand seven hundred,
fifteen over one thousand six hundred, and nineteen
over one thousand five hundred. It was found that at
the bottom of the northeastern end lies a plain of
several square miles, almost perfectly level, while
south of the center is a cliff about nine hundred feet
high, and west of the center seems to be cinder cone,
nearly one thousand two hundred feet in height, with
a crater in the center two hundred and fifty feet deep.
Its summit is six hundred feet below the surface of
the water.[Pg 27]

On one occasion our party took five pounds of red
fire, which we intended to burn on the summit of
Wizard Island, but owing to the fact that the air was
so filled with smoke as to destroy the effect, our plan
was changed, and we took it to Rogue River Falls on
our return. Here we met quite a number of hardy
mountaineers, and at 9 o’clock left camp for the falls,
about one mile distant. The night was very dark, and
a weird sort of a scene it was as we climbed over logs
and rocks, lighting our way by tallow candles and a
lantern that flickered dimly. At last the bank of the
stream was reached, and while the noise of the rushing
waters was intense, nothing could be seen but the dim
outline of something white far down below us. At this
point, the walls are perpendicular, and one hundred
and eighty feet high. They are also solid rock from top
to bottom. Directly opposite where we stood, Mill
Creek falls into Rogue River (one hundred and eighty
feet), and this is what we came to see. In order to get
the benefit of the red light, it was necessary for some
one to climb down to the water. This duty fell to a
stranger in the party, who made the descent during
the day, and myself. He led the way carrying a dim
lantern, and I followed as best I could. The rocks
are covered with a remarkably thick layer of moss,
which is kept very wet by the rising mist. The path,
if such it might be termed, led along the sides of
the cliff at an angle of about 45 degrees. As we cautiously
climbed from rock to rock, it was a sort of
feeling of intensified interest that overcame us, when[Pg 28]
we realized that a single misstep would precipitate us
to the rocks below—and, worst of all, possibly we
“never would be missed.” The bed of the stream was
reached at last, and the fire ignited close to the falls.
Ye gods! What a transformation! Suddenly, the canyon,
which could not be seen before, was as bright as
day, lighted by a fire so brilliant that we could not
look upon it. Crimson air and crimson water, crimson
walls and crimson everywhere. No magician of the
Arabians ever conjured up by a stroke of his wand a
spectacle more sublime. It was one of transcendent
beauty, upon which the human eye seldom rests, and
when it does its possessor is spellbound by the bewildering
vision. One almost loses the power of
speech in the desperate struggle to see and comprehend
the scene, and before it is realized the light dies
away and darkness reigns supreme, rendered ten-fold
more dense by the splendor of so magnificent a tableau.

Near the base of Dutton Cliff stands a solitary rock,
probably one hundred feet high, by two hundred in
length and nearly the same breadth, that, while not
seen by the present generation of Indians, is nevertheless
known to them, and is a special object of superstitious
dread. They consider it as a peculiarly
ferocious monster, but are unable to describe its characteristics.
It stands in the lake entirely alone and
about fifty yards from shore. Standing on the cliffs,
five miles to the west and looking across the lake,
this strange rock is plainly visible in the sunlight
its rugged peaks reaching aloft, giving it the ap[Pg 29]pearance
of a full rigged ship at anchor. Should a
cloud pass before the sun, as the shadow strikes the
rock it will pass from view as effectually as though it
had ceased to exist. While sounding the lake in 1886,
I caused a party of topographical engineers to be
landed here for observations, but it was so rugged that
the most diligent search failed to reveal a level place
large enough to accommodate the tripod attached to
their instruments, and we were compelled to resort to
a point on shore for the purpose. I have never
learned its Indian name, but among the whites it is
known as the Phantom Ship.

To those who enjoy the noble sport of hunting, the
vicinity of Crater Lake is especially attractive. Great
numbers of deer, bear and panther roam through the
timber in fancied security, inviting the keen eye and
steady nerve of the sportsman. Although passionately
fond of such sport myself, the grandeur and
sublimity of the surroundings so overcame me with
desire to see and prosecute our explorations, that I
forgot my love for a running shot, in an inordinate
desire to climb over the cliffs and view the wonderful
place from every conceivable point. My companions
were no less affected, and the result was that we ran
out of meat and applied to a native sheep herder for
mutton chops. He scowled upon us for a moment,
then informed our spokesman that “when he butchered
he never saved the heads.”

While running a line of soundings from Llao rock
to Vidae cliff across the lake one day, a strong wind[Pg 30]
sprung up from the south accompanied by black
clouds and a storm seemed imminent. We had proceeded
about three miles across, when we were suddenly
startled by a loud noise, as though a multitude
of men were savagely beating tin pans. In a very few
minutes the southwestern cliffs became white and we
could plainly see the “color line” advancing to the
north, until all the cliffs to the west seemed covered
with snow. To add to so strange a sight, a good-sized
water-fall began pouring over Llao rock, and falling to
the lake two thousand feet below. Within half an
hour from the beginning of the storm, the water-fall
ceased, the cliffs became dark again, the wind shifted
to the northwest and drove millions of hailstones
upon us, sufficiently large to make us wince when
struck—especially when struck all over with no possible
means of escape.

The only accident to any of our party during the
sojourn, befel a highly respected mule attached to the
Topographical Engineers Corps. One day as the party
passed along the east side of Dutton Cliff, progress
seemed almost blocked by high precipices. A point
was found overlooking a yawning chasm, where a
large tree had fallen and lodged. By throwing in
stones and brush, a sort of trail was made to terra
firma beyond the backbone of the mountain. Over
this the pack train was passed safely, except a mule
that was blind in one eye. He bore a reputation for
dignity and sobriety that any well-to-do mule might
envy. However, when just at the point which, above[Pg 31]
all others, should have received his undivided attention,
he became gay and festive, and as a consequence,
fell part way over the precipice. By dint of hard
labor, he was drawn back, but little the worse for
wear, his pack was removed and he again started
across. Again, however, he became frisky, and pitched
head-long over a rocky precipice five hundred feet
high. As his limbs mixed with those of the trees below,
the thoughts of the spectators above were: “There
goes all that is mortal of Croppy, who climbed to the
top of Mt. Shasta, but died in a lonely canyon, by his
own hand in a fit of temporary insanity. Let him
R.I.P.”

One day while at work on the lake, my attention
was called to what seemed to be a tall, full-bearded
man standing on the southern portion of Llao Rock’s
summit. One foot was placed a little forward of the
other and the knee bent slightly but naturally, while
before him stood a gun. His hands were clasped
over the muzzle as he gazed intently to the north.
Just behind him stood a boy, apparently about fifteen
years of age. They seemed entirely too natural not
to be flesh and blood, and yet, persons at that distance
would not be visible to the naked eye, as we
were two miles out on the lake. Day after day, as our
work progressed, their position remained the same,
and, in the absence of a better explanation, we decided
them to be trees.

Crater Lake is but a striking memento of a dread
past. Imagine a vast mountain, six by seven miles[Pg 32]
through, at an elevation of eight thousand feet, with
the top removed and the inside hollowed out, then
filled with the clearest water in the world, to within
two thousand feet of the top, then place a round island
in one end eight hundred and forty-five feet high,
then dig a circular hole tapering to the center, like a
funnel, one hundred feet deep and four hundred and
seventy-five feet in diameter, and you have a perfect
representation of Crater Lake.

It is hard to comprehend what an immense affair
it is. To those living in New York City, I would say,
Crater Lake is large enough to have Manhattan,
Randall’s, Ward’s and Blackwell’s Islands dropped
into it, side by side without touching the walls, or,
Chicago or Washington City might do the same.
Our own fair city of Portland with all her suburbs,
from the City Park to Mount Tabor, and from Albina
to Sellwood inclusive, could find ample room on the
bottom of the lake. On the other hand, if it were
possible to place the lake, at its present elevation,
above either of these cities, it would be over a mile up
to the surface of the water, and a mile and three-quarters
to the top of Llao Rock. Of this distance,
the ascent would be through water for two thousand
feet. To those living in New Hampshire, it might be
said, the surface of the water is twenty-three feet
higher than the summit of Mt. Washington.

1. Rogue River Falls, 180 feet high.
2. Vidae Cliff, Crater Lake, over 2,000 feet high.
3. A point on Vidae Cliff.

What an immense affair it must have been, ages
upon ages ago, when, long before the hot breath of a
volcano soiled its hoary head, standing as a proud
[Pg 33]monarch, with its feet upon earth and its head in
the heavens, it towered far, far above the mountain
ranges, aye, looked far down upon the snowy peaks
of Hood and Shasta, and snuffed the air beyond the
reach of Everest. Then streams of fire began to shoot
forth, great seas of lava were hurled upon the earth
beneath. The elements seemed bent upon establishing
hell upon earth and fixing its throne upon this
great mountain. At last its foundation gave way
and it sank forever from sight. Down, down, down
deep into the bowels of the earth, leaving a great,
black, smoking chasm, which succeeding ages filled
with pure, fresh water, giving to our day and generation
one of the most beautiful lakes within the vision
of man.

In conclusion I will say, Crater Lake is one of
the grandest points of interest on earth. Here all the
ingenuity of nature seems to have been exerted to the
fullest capacity, to build one grand, awe-inspiring
temple, within which to live and from which to gaze
upon the surrounding world and say: “Here would
I dwell and live forever. Here would I make my home
from choice; the universe is my kingdom, and this
my throne.”[Pg 34]

JOSEPHINE COUNTY CAVES.

On Friday evening, August 24, 1888, S. S. Nicolini
of Ragusa, Austria, E. D. Dewert of Portland, and
the writer boarded the south-bound train for Grant’s
Pass, intent on a few days’ outing. This town of
Grant’s Pass was so named for a pass in the mountains
several miles south, where, in early days, the silent
hero camped for the night.

Early Saturday morning my head was banged up
against one end of our sleeping car, an instant after
hearing the shrill whistle sounding down brakes. As
soon as possible I got on the outside and found the
engines standing within a few feet of a yawning chasm
where a bridge had been. Now, however, seven bents
had been burned away and a terrible railroad accident
was averted by the quick eye of Engineer Elliott,
who saw the fire as we turned the curve and stopped
the train almost instantly.

At Grant’s Pass, H. D., M. M. and F. M. Harkness
joined us, and we started for the Josephine County
Caves, about thirty miles due south, in the Siskiyou
mountains. For twenty miles the trip was made over
a very good road by wagon. At this point it became
necessary to pack our things on two horses and walk
over a trail into the mountains. On a hot day, this[Pg 35]
portion of the trip is very laborious, owing to the fact
that it is up the steep mountain side about two-thirds
of the way, and down an equally steep incline the
remainder. We arrived at our destination a little before
noon on the 27th, and found two openings, one
above the other, and about one hundred yards apart,
on the south side of a deep canyon. When out hunting
a few years since, Elijah Davidson, of Williams
Creek, found a bear and chased it into the lower entrance,
thus discovering the caves.

Each entrance is high enough to admit a person
without stooping, and is probably about eight feet
wide. At noon we entered the upper cave. For a
few feet the floor inclined inward; we then descended
a ladder for about six feet, and found ourselves in a
passage way eight feet wide by an equal height, which
changed, however, at every step. Now it would be
wider, and now narrower, now higher, and now lower.
Walls, ceiling and floor were composed of solid rock.
To describe them, appropriately would simply be to
use a gift made divine by inspiration. No man can
behold them, then impart to others an accurate idea
of their appearance. Soon after entering we were
compelled to progress on hands and knees, then stood
upright in chambers ten feet high, the walls of which
were white. Stalactites were first seen here, and involuntarily
we cast sly glances around to discover the
bodies of kings preserved beneath such droppings in
“King Solomon’s Mines.” We wandered from place
to place, from chamber to chamber, dragging ourselves[Pg 36]
through passage ways barely large enough to admit
a human body, while with toes and fingers we worked
along, or stood in the midst of rooms that reached far
above us. Now we see a beautiful pool of clearest
water, surrounded by a delicate crystal formation in
the shape of a bowl. In color it is as white as the
driven snow, while each crystal is oblong, projecting
at right angles with the main portion for about an
eighth of an inch. One peculiarity of these crystals
that disappointed us was the fact that they change
from white to a dull, yellowish color, immediately
after being removed from the caves.

We were extremely anxious to try a new process
for taking photographs in the dark, so Dewert took
his camera and acted as photographer for the party.
Owing to the limited space at times and cramped
manner of locomotion it required the services of four
men to carry the camera and accompanying necessities.
Having reached a suitable place for a picture,
the camera was first put in position, a board was laid
on the top of it on which a tin reflector was placed,
and a little powder called the lightning flash was
then poured on the board in front of the reflector. At
this point the order was given, “Douse the glim,” and
all lights were extinguished. The plate was exposed
in perfect darkness, the powder was ignited, and instantly
there was a flash of the most intense light.
This light was so brilliant that, for several minutes, it
caused in the eyes a glimmering sensation of light.
Several photographs were taken in this way, which[Pg 37]
will doubtless prove excellent examples of what ingenuity
can do in the dark.

It would require days of constant work to explore
all the passages we found, whereas our time was limited
to that portion of one day after 12 o’clock noon.
For this reason we remained in the caves from noon
to midnight, first examining the upper, then the lower
one. This difference exists between them: The one
above is possessed of fine stalactite formations, while
below none appear. Instead, however, immense rocks
are piled indiscriminately one upon the other, with
great cracks between. Long ladders were used to
climb to the top of the rocks, over the sides of which
yawning pits could be seen that seemed to possess
no bottom. Lack of time alone prevented us from
making a thorough investigation, but I could not resist
the temptation to climb over the side of one friendly
rock for a few feet to see how it looked. Down for
twenty feet the space remained unchanged, so that I
could easily reach from rock to rock. It then widened
out and I could proceed no farther without ropes, so I
returned to the party. A fine stream of clear cold
water flows from this cave and a strong breeze of
cool air rushed forth also. At times in both upper
and lower cave, the wind blew toward the entrance so
that it was impossible to keep the lights burning. No
traces of foul air have been found in either cave.

Before our visit, visions of square chambers filled
my mind, only to be dashed aside when real ones presented
themselves, the irregular shape of which could[Pg 38]
not well be surpassed. There are no parallel walls,
few straight ones, but corners everywhere. The floor
will pitch in all directions, likewise ceiling and walls.
Beautiful views of stalactites and stalagmites stand
out in bold relief against snow white walls. At the
farthest extremity of the upper cave in one direction
an immense chamber presents itself, and should be
known as the devil’s banquet hall. It is probably
75 × 150 feet and sixty in height. Great blocks of rock
hang as by a thread from the ceiling, while on every
side rocks of equal size lie in all conceivable shapes.
Standing at the point of entry one looks at the opposite
side and sees great cracks, yawning cavities with
open mouths of blackness, dismal shadows, to which
flickering lights give a ghoulish, dance-like appearance.
Yes, the devil seems to be holding high carnival,
while his imps would dance the night away. They
bob up and down and swing their arms in fiendish
glee, while the dance goes on forever. None can look
therein without seeing these imps and their antics.
The floor recedes rapidly from the entrance, and is
composed of great rocks scattered in confusion. We
placed a number of lighted candles in different places,
then climbed to the opposite side to view them. The
shadows had partially disappeared, crevices and holes
in the walls not before seen became suddenly black
and excited our curiosity, so we climbed over high
rocks into unknown passages. In a small chamber
on one side we found a beautiful stream of water,
falling several feet into a crystal basin. The walls[Pg 39]
of the chamber are white, and the effect by candle-light
is very fine.

Midnight found us still employed, but we reluctantly
ceased our labors and withdrew. Without unnecessary
ceremony we wrapped our blankets about us,
laid down beneath the stars, and slept the sleep of the
just until 3 o’clock, when the dulcet notes of a coyote
called us to the business of the day. Preparations
were quickly made for the journey, and at daylight
we were on our way to Grant’s Pass, where we arrived
at 9 o’clock P.M.[Pg 40]

OUR MOUNTAINS IN WAR.

It is a curious fact that the home of Liberty has
always been in the mountains. The reason for
this is, that Nature intervenes every barrier to prevent
conquests, and shields the native mountaineer
from onslaughts of a foreign foe. The ringing words,
“Make way for Liberty,” could never have become
immortal had it not been for a mountain pass. The
memory of William Tell would not now be cherished
by liberty-loving Swiss, were it not for the friendly
crags of the Alps that sheltered him. Here in the
Northwest we are blessed with a wonderful mountain
range, extending from California through Oregon
and Washington to British Columbia.

For beauty, grandeur and extent it has no superior;
while as a field of defense, it simply stands unparalleled,
and is rich in minerals, agriculture and
commerce. Located at from forty to a hundred miles
apart are the following mountain peaks, covered with
perpetual snow: Baker, Rainier, Adams, St. Helens,
Hood, Jefferson, Three Sisters, Pitt and Shasta. From
each of these, convenient points of prominence are
visible in the Coast Range, one or more of which in
turn are visible from every harbor and city as far
south as San Francisco. In case of a foreign war it is
one of the possibilities of the Oregon Alpine Club to[Pg 41]
organize a sort of Signal Corps, say five hundred men,
each of whom would be thoroughly familiar with
every pass, crevasse and crag in the mountains where
detailed for service. With a liberal supply of provisions
and ammunition on each peak, scarcely anything
short of a pestilence could dislodge them. What
could a foreign army do around Mt. Hood, for
instance, with fifty resolute men well armed and
equipped on the summit.

It has been but a few years since the entire force
of the United States Army was successfully defied by
Captain Jack and a dozen Indians in the Lava Beds;
and yet we have here every advantage of the Lava
Beds, to which is added precipices to the north, east
and west, while to the south a narrow passage would
permit men to ascend, but it is necessary to cut every
step in the ice; while directly across the base of this
precipitous glacier, a crevasse extends, of unknown
depth, which varies in width from three to forty feet,
according to the season. It is needless to say that
every wounded member of the assaulting party would
pay the penalty with his life, for the slightest misstep
would hurl him into the crevasse where “moth
doth not corrupt and where thieves do not break
through and steal.” Now for the point of this article.
Give to the corps a liberal supply of heliographs and
instruct the men how to use them. In this way a perfect
system of communication can be established by
which messages can be sent from point to point in an
instant. Say, for instance, that a hostile fleet was[Pg 42]
lying at Victoria and a descent on San Francisco was
planned. From a spy within the enemy’s lines, the
party on Mt. Baker gathers full particulars, and immediately
informs San Francisco of the contemplated
attack, giving full particulars, including number
of ships, men and guns.[Pg 43]

NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT
RAINIER.

Monday, August 14, 1889, Mr. J. Nichols, of
Tacoma, and the writer, left Tacoma for Mt.
Rainier, determined, if possible, to reach its highest
point.

The provisions, blankets, alpine stocks (a hickory
staff seven feet long with a steel point at one end),
alpine ax and all that was necessary in making the
ascent easy, were taken from Tacoma, while pack
horses were procured at Yelm, a station twenty-five
miles south of Tacoma, and from which the trail leads
eastwardly to Mount Rainier. It first follows river
bottoms, then mountains, ridges and river bottoms
again, while an occasional fording of the glacial
stream, lends interest to the ever-changing scenes.
We aimed at the end of each day to camp where feed
could be obtained for hard working horses. Darkness
coming on as we reached the first ford, left in some
doubt the exact location of the crossing, so camp was
made on the bank of the river with nothing but oats
for our tired horses. Daylight found us fording the
river, which had risen during the night about ten
inches, making it quite exciting as the foaming water
splashed the horses’ sides, and wet our feet and ankles.

Stopping at the first place where hay could be
had, a stay of nearly two hours was made for breakfast
for ourselves and horses.[Pg 44]

From our last night’s experience, we decided to
carry hay with us and camp wherever night should
overtake us, which was at the foot of a high mountain
our trail led over, and on the bank of the river as
before. The day was uneventful, if we omit mention
of the many hornets’ nests we passed through
and the four pheasants which fell before the unerring
aim of Nichol’s rifle. The pheasants led us to a fitting
close of the day in the shape of pheasants and dumplings,
prepared by the writer and pronounced by
Nichols (who, by the way, is an epicure) to be simply
par excellence. And here I might add that the writer
is a single man.

The end of the third day found us at the Hotel
Longmire at Hot Springs, located on the southwest
slope of Mt. Rainier, at an altitude of three thousand
feet, and some five miles from the perpetual snow
limit. And no finer people ever lived than Mr. and
Mrs. Longmire, who own and preside over the hotel
and springs. The hotel material was cut by hand out
of the finest grained cedar that ever grew—boards
twelve inches wide and fifteen feet long—as perfect as
though sawed.

As a matter of information for those interested, it
might be well to say here that the waters of the
springs are positively life-giving. The writer has
visited many mineral springs, and has never seen anything
that will compare with the stimulating and
health-giving qualities of these springs.[Pg 45]

But, to resume: we left the springs next morning,
with a single pack horse, expecting to leave the horse
at the top of the ridge (eight thousand feet altitude)
overlooking Paradise valley, and, with blankets on
our backs, to make our way to Ewing’s camp, ten
thousand five hundred feet above sea level. We
reached Paradise valley, and, finding the same had
been so well and truly named, decided to stop till next
day and enjoy some of its beauties. Accordingly,
camp was pitched, fire-wood gathered, and a camp
fire built, and a pot of beans placed thereon. After a
light lunch we strolled, enjoying the alpine beauties
of the valley, well named Paradise.

During the afternoon the wind changed to the
southwest, and clouds gradually spread over the firmament.
From our experience a year ago on Mount
Hood in a storm, at no higher altitude than we now
were, no thought was given to ascending higher till
fair weather and a northwest wind prevailed. Morning
dawned and no indications of good weather. Our
spirits were accordingly depressed. Observing the
barometer, we found it moving quite rapidly in the
direction of storm. By noon the sky was heavily
overcast, and an hour later undercast as well.

By 3 o’clock rain began to fall. The wind had
already risen to quite a gale. Re-staking our tent,
digging a ditch around the head and sides, and piling
wood and rocks along the edges to keep out the wind
and rain, we crawled into our blankets and awaited
developments. Soon the storm broke upon us with[Pg 46]
all its alpine fury, and raged during the entire night.
By morning the rain had turned into sleet and snow,
the thermometer, at daylight registering 34 degrees.
Shortly the storm ceased. After some difficulty a fire
was started and coffee made. Sampling our pot of beans,
which had boiled at least four hours, we found them still
hard; after an hour more boiling we emptied them on
the ground, having learned that beans are hard to
cook at an eight thousand foot altitude. Our barometer
still indicating foul weather, we decided to start at
once for a more congenial climate. Accordingly our
shivering horses (which we had blanketed) were packed
and four hours later we were at the Springs hotel, in a
rather moody frame of mind. Tuesday morning all
was clear, the barometer indicated fair weather, and
we started early, reaching the 8500-foot ridge at 1 p.m.
Turning our horses loose to feed upon the succulent
grass, we bound our blankets upon our backs and
started for Ewing’s camp, altitude 11,000 feet. Evening
coming on, we made camp at 10,500. Clearing away
the rocks, leaving a sandy bottom, we stretched our
light, small tent, banking wet sand around the edges
to keep out the piercing wind, which almost invariably
blows at high altitudes. Placing our oilcloth
over the damp, cool sand, we soon had a comfortable
bed. For tent poles we used our alpine stocks, one of
which was seven and one-half feet long. Our bed being
satisfactorily arranged, we took notes on the
scenery, temperature, etc. A haze hung over the
valleys; in fact, it rose to a height of nine thousand[Pg 47]
feet. The rosy-tinted summits of Hood, Adams and
St. Helens towered away above it, however, reflecting
the rays of the declining sun.

The chilliness of the temperature, 28 degrees, prevented
us from remaining long outside our tent.
Crawling in, we tightly fastened the flaps and really
passed a comfortable night. Twenty minutes after 4
a.m. found us astir, and at five o’clock we were under
way.

We had scarcely as yet taken time to admire the
beauties of the scene, so intent had we been on getting
an early start so as to be able to return before sundown
to our blankets and provisions.

We soon had an opportunity to admire the beauties
around and below us, as climbing above eleven thousand
feet altitude is productive of sudden stops for
rest and breath.

We expected to reach the summit by noon, at
latest; but on account of the icy condition of portions
of the mountain side, it was necessary to cut steps over
quite long stretches. This delayed us more than two
hours. Twelve o’clock came and went and we were
not quite to the top of the “big rock”—a large rock
on the south side, the top of which is about two thousand
feet below the summit.

By 1 o’clock we were past the rock several hundred
yards. From here to the summit we crossed eight or
nine crevasses. The snow or ice stood in pinnacles
often six and seven feet high.[Pg 48]

Three o’clock came and the top was still beyond us.
Having no blankets or provisions, the question now
presented itself: Could we make the summit and back
over the dangerous points before dark. Not much
talking was done, however, as breath was too precious;
but we still pushed on.

At 4 o’clock we held a council of war and decided
that since it was already so late we could not return
before dark, and we would make for the summit,
where steam caverns were said to exist, and where
Messrs. Longmire and Van Trump stayed over night
in ’83. They found themselves in the same predicament
we were now in, by their determination to reach
the summit. This being settled, we pushed on, turned
out of our way by first one and then another obstacle,
until we found ourselves about one hundred feet, not
more, below the summit of the highest western bump
or dome. From this we descended about a hundred
feet, and thence across a level piece of snow about one-third
of a mile, to the foot of the main pinnacle, in
which is located the crater.

Some three hundred feet (in altitude) more climbing,
over ashes and fine pumice stone of the outside walls
of the crater, and we stood on the apex of one of the
highest mountains in the United States. Mr. Nichols
claims the honor of being the first and only Tacomaite
who has reached the summit.

1. Snowballing on Mt. St. Helens, July 22d, 1889.
2. Summit of Mt. Hood, looking West.
3. Illumination Rock on Mt. Hood.

It was now 5:10 p.m., the thermometer registering
23° above zero; and having no blankets, our first
[Pg 49]business was to find a warm place in the steam to pass
the night. Steam could be seen issuing from a dozen
different places on the inside rim of the crater, say sixty
to seventy feet below the crest.

Writing our names on a card, with a short account
of the climb, we placed it inside of a small box, on
which was inscribed, “Oregon Alpine Club, Portland.”
This was left on the top of the ridge. We heaped rocks
around it to prevent the wind from blowing it away.
We soon found a sort of semi-spherical opening in
the rocks, from which the warm steam poured forth.
Clearing away the rocks, leaving a sandy bottom, we
built a wall of rocks two feet in height to break the
wind, and then turned our attention to looking for
canned corned beef.

We were told a can had been left there by Prof.
Ingram’s party ten days before. This was soon found,
together with a package of French chocolate, a box of
sardines and some cheese. We were already the
possessors of one lemon. As nothing more was needed
we got into our den. Taking a cup found lashed to
a rock on the crest of the crater and filling it with
snow we placed it in our oven and soon had plenty of
water.

We ate some lunch, but fourteen and fifteen thousand
foot altitudes are not productive of strong appetites, so
we ate sparingly, and being so completely exhausted
soon fell asleep.

About 8 o’clock p.m., we were rudely awakened by
what appeared to be a dash of ice water in our faces[Pg 50]
and down our necks. The sky being clear the ice
water was explained a few moments later. The wind
had arisen and was drifting dry snow—(eight inches
of which had fallen Sunday)—from a bank about fifteen
feet distant, against the sloping roof and walls of
our warm den; thus the snow was turned to water by
the time it reached our faces. To prevent being so
rudely drenched again we removed our coats, which
were then wrapped around our heads.

The wind having veered to the west, some anxiety
was felt that a storm might arise before we could return.
However, fortune smiled upon us in our dizzy resting
place so far above the clouds, and morning dawned
clear, cold and beautiful.

Upon the first gleams of the sun we made for the
ridge for our dry clothes, which were placed there before
retiring to our den the night before. We had fortunately
worn two suits of heavy underclothes, two
pairs of pants and two coats, so we now had dry clothes,
and well it was we took the precaution of removing
a suit and placing it out of the way of the wet steam.
Before we could return to our den every vestige of
clothing, including a soft hat, was frozen stiff. The
cold seemed to strike at once clear through. The
agility with which we got into our steam chest would
have been amusing to an uninitiated observer. We
were soon warm again, and by slight assistance from
each other, our dripping clothes were soon changed
for dry ones. Mounting the ridge of the crater on
the highest side, sunrise observations were taken.[Pg 51]
The sun appearing above the eastern horizon tinted
Rainier’s top with molten silver, while the country beneath
was still wrapped in shade. Not many moments
elapsed till the adjacent mountains, Hood,
Adams and St. Helens, one by one in order named,
donned their silvery shields like mighty giants in
battle attitude, defending themselves against the sun,
their common enemy. The effect at this time was
grand, indeed, the heavy rains of two days previous
having entirely dissipated the smoke.

Eastward all was clear, while westward, nearly fifteen
thousand feet below, the valleys and lowlands
were hidden beneath billowy clouds, which, like the
mountain tops, soon turned from gray to shining
silver.

Soon Sol’s rays had reached the western horizon.
Mountain shadows now appeared reaching westward
to the limit of our vision; the jagged edges
resting on hills and plains and valleys contributed to
a changing scene, the memory of which will last so
long as life is given.

Our selfish aim more than attained, we were satisfied
and determined at once to descend to earth, from
whence we came. Our determination being carried
out, we reached Hot Springs at 8 p.m., and Tacoma
three days later.

CHAS. H. GOVE,

Of Oregon Alpine Club.
[Pg 52]

WHAT THEY SIGNIFY.

Adams, Mt.—Called by Winthrop, Tacoma the
Second (1853). Named for President Adams.

Indian name Pat-to, signifying high. This name
was applied to snow caps generally by the Indians.

Baker, Mt.—Named for Lieut. Baker by Vancouver,
when discovered April 30, 1792.

Called by Winthrop (1853), Kulshan; possibly the
Indian name.

Referred to by the Spanish as Montana del Carmelo.

Called Mt. Polk by the Americans (1846).

Bitter Root Range.—Same as the Cœur d’Alene
mountains.

Coffin, Mt.—Originally used as an Indian burying
ground and named by Lieut. Broughton (1792).

Castle Rock.—Referred to by Lewis and Clark as
Beacon Rock (1805). Subsequently called Castle
Rock, because of its appearance.

Cascades.—Known as President’s Range (1846).
The mountains were named for the cascades of the
Columbia river.

Cape Horn.—So named because of the difficulty
experienced in doubling it (1812.)[Pg 53]

Goat Mountain.—Called Plas (long sound of a)
by the Indians, meaning white. So called because of
the white rocks. Mountain goats formerly abounded
in that vicinity, hence the present name.

Hood, Mt.—Discovered by Broughton, October 29,
1792, and named for Lord Hood of England. General
Indian name, Pat-to. An active volcano in 1846.
Same as Mt. Washington of the Americans (1846).

Jefferson, Mt.—Discovered by Lewis and Clark
and named for President Jefferson, 1806. Same as Mt.
Vancouver of the British (1846).

McLaughlin, Mt.—Lat. 43° 30′. Named for John
McLaughlin who established Vancouver, introduced
live stock, fruit, vegetables and grain. Same as Mt.
Madison of the Americans (1846). Sometimes called
Diamond Peak.

Oregon.—First used by Capt. Jonathan Carver in a
book published in London (1774). The name appeared
in the following statement: “The river Bourbon
empties itself into Hudson’s Bay; the waters of
St. Lawrence; the Mississippi and the river Oregon, or
the River of the West, that falls into the Pacific ocean
at the straits of Anian.” Numerous theories are advanced
as to the origin of the name with Carver, but
nothing conclusive is shown on the subject. The
original Oregon embraced an uncertain portion of the
entire Northwest (1578), called by the British New Albion.
One portion of it was called New Georgia (1792),
and another (1806), New Caledonia by British traders.[Pg 54]
The Spanish government designated the entire country
(1790), as “The Coast of California, in the South
Sea.”

Olympus, Mt.—Was discovered by Juan Perez, a
Spanish pilot, and called El Cero de la Santa Rosalia.
Named Olympus by Capt. Mears, July 4, 1788. Same
as Mt. Van Buren (1846).

Puget Sound.—Named by Vancouver for his lieutenant,
Peter Puget, the discoverer, May 19th, 1792.
Known among the Indians as Whulge, also as K’ uk’
lults.

Rainier, Mt.—Discovered by Vancouver in May,
1792, and named for Rear Admiral Rainier of the
English navy. Sometimes called Mt. Tacoma. Called
Mt. Harrison by the Americans (1846). See pages 55,
57 and 59.

Rocky Mountains.—Named by the Verendrye
brothers (1742). First called Stony Mountains.

Saddle Mt.—Called by the Indians, “Swallalahoost.”
Named by Wilkes, Saddle Mountain (1842),
on account of its shape.

St. Helens, Mt.—Discovered by Broughton of
Vancouver’s party, October 20, 1792, and named in
honor of His Majesty’s ambassador at Madrid. Known
among Americans as Mt. Washington (1846), as also
Mt. John Adams. Called by the Indians Lou-wala-clough,
meaning smoking mountain.

Tillamook Head.—(1806), originally spelled Killamook.
Lewis and Clark refer to it as “Clark’s
Point of View.”

Tacoma, Mt.—See Rainier, also pages 55, 57 and 59.[Pg 55]

MOUNT RAINIER.

U. S. INDIAN SERVICE.

Nisqually and Skokomish Agency, }
Tacoma, W. T., Dec. 8, 1886. }

W. G. Steel, Portland, Oregon:

Dear Sir:—I have the honor to acknowledge
the receipt of your letter of Sept. 21st, making certain
inquiries about the change of the name of Mt. Rainier
to that of Tacoma. Upon careful and diligent inquiry
among the Puyallup Indians, I find the following to
be the true condition of things:

There is a general impression that the name Tacoma
was the original name of the mountain among Indians,
and that it signified “nourishing mother,” and
was so named on account of its being the source of a
number of rivers which head there and flow into the
waters of Puget Sound. This, I find to be entirely
erroneous. The Indian word is Ta-ko-bet or Ta-ke-man,
the first being the most general pronunciation
used among these Indians, but both words are
used, being the different pronunciation used by the
dialects. It means a white mountain, and is a general
name for any high, snow-covered, or white, treeless
peak. It is applied to this mountain by the
Indians of this vicinity, because it is the only, or most
prominent one of the kind in the vicinity. They use[Pg 56]
the word as we would speak of “The White Mountain,”
there being but one near us. In the Skadgit
language, the word is a little different, and is there
called Ko-ma, and is applied by these Indians to Mt.
Baker, it being the mountain in that vicinity of the
kind. The word Squa-tach, or Squat-letsh, is a general
name for a range of mountains, while Ta-ko-bet
or Ta-ko-man or Ko-ma is the name of the snow
covered or white peaks in the range.

This information I have gained from inquiry of the
Indians with whom I have come in contact and who
live near here. I inclose a statement written out by
Rev. Peter Stanup, an educated Indian of the Puyallup
tribe, and who is unusually well informed on
such matters.

As to when it was first applied and by whom I am
not so well advised; but from what I do know, I understand
that it was first applied to the mountains by
the whites about twelve years ago, and at the same
time that the town of Tacoma was laid out and located
by the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, or some of
its attaches. I understand that the attempt was made
by the N. P. R. R. Co. to have the name changed,
and that it still makes strenuous efforts to do so. The
people of the town of Tacoma, and the members of the
Tacoma Land Company as well as the R. R. Co.,
above named, all try hard to have the mountain
called by that name; while the residents of the other
part of the Territory, west of the Cascade mountains[Pg 57]
and especially of Seattle, are very much opposed to
the change, and continue to call it by its first name. I
think that the facts are that the name Tacoma is an
attempted imitation of an Indian term applied to any
high, snow-covered peak, but which was supposed to
be the special name of this peak, because generally
used by the Indians of this vicinity, and that it was
applied to this mountain at the time the town of Tacoma
was located and named by the N. P. R. R. Co.,
for the purpose of bringing into note its western
terminus.

Yours Respectfully,

EDWIN EELLS,
U. S. Indian Agent.

STATEMENT OF REV. PETER STANUP.

Ta-ko-man is a name used by many different Indian
tribes of this Territory, with the same meaning and a
slight variation of pronunciation by each different
tribe. It is the name or word from which Tacoma
was derived. It originated among the inland Indians.
The meaning of Ta-ko-man is a high, treeless, white
or light colored peak or mound. The name is applicable
to any peak or mound as described, but is generally
used for one that is distinguished, or highly
honored. And Squa-tach, to climb, and Sba-date
mountain, are mostly used for all mountains and peaks.
The individual name of Mt. Tacoma is Twhauk,
which was derived from Twheque, snow, and[Pg 58]
Swheque ad. Bright, clear, cloudless sky. Ta-ko-man
is mostly used for the Mt. Tacoma, as it is held with
much respect and esteemed by nearly all the Indians
of the Northwest. The reason for conferring the
great honor upon Twhauk, is that the second syllable
ko, means water, corresponding with the water, or
little lake on top of the mountain, and also in that
lake is a great abundance of valuable shells, from
which the Indians made their nose and ear-rings, and
other valuable jewelry.[Pg 59]

THOUGHTS ON THE NAME “TACOMA.”

This beautiful name of the city whose rapid and
marvellous growth and development have been
unparalleled even in our Western civilization, is a
pure invention. Its very euphony divests it of all
claim as the Indian nomination of Old Mount Rainier,
the name conferred by the illustrious circumnavigator,
George Vancouver, borne for a century
upon the map of the world.

Tacoma is a word of extremely modern origin,
invented, or used first by Lieut. Theodore Winthrop,
U. S. Army, in his readable book—”Canoe and Saddle.”
The writer of these thoughts first heard it late
in the “sixties,” when Capt. D. B. Finch, among the
pioneers of steam navigation on Puget Sound, presented
a building in Olympia to the Good Templars,
and his gift was christened “Tacoma Hall.” Contemporaneously
Tacoma City, now the first ward of Tacoma,
was thus named by some Portland town-builders—Gen.
McCarver, Lewis M. Starr and James Steel.
The then leading hotel of Olympia, about the same
time, assumed that title and wore it for several years;
but a whole decade passed before the attempt was
made to obliterate the time-honored name of the great
mountain peak of Northwest America, conferred at
the first visit of white men to Commencement Bay in[Pg 60]
1792. Late in 1878, a lithograph map and bird’s-eye
view of the embryo city of New Tacoma was published
under the patronage of the Tacoma Land Company,
entitled—”New Tacoma and Mount Rainier”—issued
in 1880. At that date the name “Tacoma” existed,
but it was not applied to the mountain; nor
was it even dreamed that the town was named from
the Indian name of the mountain. The fact is that
the name, “Mount Tacoma,” has been recently conferred
on the mountain by white men. A decade
back, the name will not be found on the maps of
Washington Territory, and it is to be hoped that the
attempt to obliterate from the map of the world the
name conferred by that illustrious contributor to geographic
science, Captain George Vancouver, R. N.,
will prove unsuccessful.

When Gen. Hazard Stevens, and that splendid
scholar and writer, P. B. Van Trump, Esq., ascended
the grand old mountain, the pronunciation and spelling
of the name which Gen. Stevens, in his narrative,
ascribed to the mountain, was still unsettled. He
spelt the word Te-ho-ma. The “h” being aspirated
really represents an Indian guttural grunt without
beauty or even resolving itself into a well-defined consonant.

In the year 1882, the writer was invited to perform
the role of orator on Independence Day at the
beautiful settlement called Puyallup. The committee
coupled with the invitation the expressed desire
that the theme should be Puget Sound reminis[Pg 61]cences—the
early settlement of Pierce county. He
adopted as a starting theme the thoughts suggested
by the words “Tacoma” and “Puyallup,” or their
origin thus euphonized into household words of significance
and anglicised beauty, bearing but little resemblance
in sound to the half-uttered nasal grunts
of the fish-eating natives of Puget Sound, whose syllables
are “without form and void;” their language,
if such it be considered, acquiring meaning or intensity
of signification when accompanied by pantomimic
motion, speaking far more than all their syllabic
combinations. Through the valued assistance of
that veteran Indian student and interlocutor, John
Flett, some twenty aged, prominent Indians, who
would not deign to talk other than their own dialect,
who despised even the Chinook Jargon, but adhered
to the grunts and syllabic utterances and the pantomime
of their race for the ages before the advent of
the Hudson’s Bay Company or American settlers,
gathered in the writer’s office in New Tacoma, as the
city of Tacoma was then called, and seated on the
floor for hours discussed what they called the mountains
and mountain range, its surrounding and attributes.
About half were of the White river bands,
those who originally lived on the sources of the
streams issuing from Mount Rainier. The remainder
were Puyallups and ‘Squallys, whose original haunts
were near the Sound. The form was to put the writer’s
question or wish for information into Chinook
Jargon, which was then translated into the Indian[Pg 62]
dialect. The old men expressed themselves in their
native utterances. It would be the grossest perversion
to call their answers “words.” They were not
so couched—at best, strong syllabic utterances—mere
grunts, at times which, with eloquent pantomime, assumed
grand and eloquent thought and meaning,
when translated, to give just expression arising to
poetry of ideas, but as a language, technically so considered,
poverty-stricken to the greatest degree, and
without its accompanied earnestness of movement,
without a single attribute of beauty or euphonism.

That interesting study and those comparative
views, by old men of the mountain and the sea, extended
through hours; and the writer will never forget
the eloquence of action required and used by those aged
natives, which more than compensated that paucity
of syllables or words, which we call language. No
such word of beauty as “Tacoma” could possibly be
coined by them, nor result from any combination of
their uttered but significant grunts, their attempted
vocalization of thoughts or ideas. True, there were
syllabic emissions of sound which might be resolved
into words by toning down grunts and inharmonious
belchings of thoughts rather than their legitimate utterances.
The manner of conducting that “interview”
was the assumption that the word “Tacoma,” or some
kindred appropriate word identified the grand old
mountain in their language; in other words, their attention
was invited to the fact, that our people had
been told that “Tacoma” was the native name of[Pg 63]
the mountain. Then began the expression by all,
in turn, as to the Indian method of referring to great
landmarks, mountains individual and in range, rivers,
etc., when talking with each other. Their views
on the information communicated found expression
in several varied, combined characteristic grunts and
shrugs, which were interspersed with some analogous
syllables or utterances from which Indian philologists
have resolved words, some of which have more
or less resemblance to some of the syllables embraced
in the word Tacoma, or that word as spelled
by different writers. They then detailed their reasons
for so speaking of the mountain or any of its
natural surroundings or physical features. In that
colloquy, no two of those Indians pronounced the
same word or used that same guttural utterance or
combination of syllables. All were especially interrogated
as to the snow-capped mountain. All gave
the meaning or idea that they knew as to the cause
for a name, by which any other could identify it, and
the significance of the utterances by each adopted
in referring to it.

Each band, not to say each individual, had a peculiar
reason for his name of it, contingent upon color,
shape or function. In that interview, the literal
translations of their syllabic combinations appertaining
more or less in sound to the syllables constituting
the name Tacoma—Te-ho-ma, Ta-ko-ber, Tak-o-man,
etc., as rendered by the venerable John Flett, a truthful,
skillful and reliable Indian authority was—”A[Pg 64]
woman’s breast that feeds,” a “nourishing breast.”
To one band, the shape of the cone suggested the
breast shape for a name; to another, the milky whiteness
was a reminder of the source of nourishment; to
another, the color of the streams which flow down
from the mountain in the annual freshets, gave origin
to the idea of the generous fountain of the great milk-white
breast-shaped sentinel for ages; while the Puyallups
and ‘Squallys, more practical in view, associated
the fact that from the mountain rushed the torrents
of white water, resembling milk, which fertilized
the valleys of Puget Sound. While such was the conversation
and speech of those old patriarchs, several of
whom had lived to become octogenarians, communicated
as above stated, the writer is well aware that
across the mountain chain, residing in the vicinity of
the mountain, that several bands of the Klickitat nation
attach different meanings for synonymous syllabic
combinations approximating in sound to the combinations
referred to used by Western Washington
bands, with shades of meaning more practical, less
figurative, less Indian; but the writer has been content
to accept as authority, at all events so far as the
Aborigines of Western Washington are concerned,
the result of the conference of Indian patriarchs convened
at his instance in 1882. While that conference
failed to establish that there was such an Indian word
as “Tacoma,” or that these Indians had any distinctive
Indian names for “Mount Rainier,” or that there
was any recognized Indian name known to the sev[Pg 65]eral
tribes; yet, the different bands did use such syllabic
utterances, by which they referred to the mountain
chain, to the leading mountain of the chain.
That color, shape, and attributed function, suggested
such expression, and that the combination of syllables
which have been so euphoniously metamorphosed
into the beautiful word “Tacoma,” when pronounced
by them in its native utterances, meant as herein expressed.
The writer, however, finds no warrant for
adopting Tacoma as an Indian word, nor does he believe
that such word, or its approximate, was a name
conferred by Indians upon the mountain, or exclusively
recognized as the name of the mountain by the
original natives of this region.

ELWOOD EVANS.

[ 66]

PRESIDENTS OF THE OREGON ALPINE CLUB.[Pg 67]

OREGON ALPINE CLUB.

The Oregon Alpine Club was organized in 1887,
and incorporated October 7th of that year. It was
originally intended merely as an organization among
half a dozen friends who were in the habit of seeking
adventure and recreation in the mountains.

After considering the matter for a time a meeting,
was called, and more persons attended than were
expected. A committee was appointed on rules, the
adoption of which required several meetings, so that
when the organization was completed there were over
seventy charter members on the roll.

The institution grew and its objects increased until
a Scientific Staff was formed and a public museum became
an important object. Hon. H. W. Corbett was
elected President, and served until October, 1888, when
Hon. D. P. Thompson was chosen. Mr. Thompson
served until the close of 1889, when a re-organization[Pg 68]
was effected, as outlined by the subjoined constitutions.
Mr. Geo. B. Markle was at this time elected,
and is now the very efficient President of the Club.
The Alpine Club is a public institution and is deserving
of the liberal support of the city and State. The
following is a list of officials, as also the Constitutions
of the Club and its various Departments:[Pg 69]

CONSTITUTION.

OFFICERS.

ARTICLE I.

NAME.

This Association shall be known as the Oregon
Alpine Club, and its subdivisions as the Departments
of the same.

ARTICLE II.

OBJECT.

The object shall be the foundation and maintenance
of a Public Museum, and advancement and
encouragement of Amateur Photography, Alpine and
Aquatic exploration, and the protection of our game,
fish, birds and animals.

ARTICLE III.

SECTIONS.

There shall be Four Departments, namely, (1) Ex[Pg 70]ploration
Department; (2) Photographic Department;
(3) Game Protective Department; and (4) Museum
Department.

ARTICLE IV.

OFFICERS.

Section 1. The officers of the Club shall be a
President, four Vice Presidents, Secretary and Treasurer.

Sec. 2. The Presidents of the various Departments
shall be ex-officio Vice-Presidents of the Club.

ARTICLE V.

ELECTIONS.

Section 1. The officers shall be elected by ballot
on the second Friday of December in each year, a majority
of all votes cast being necessary for election;
and shall hold their respective offices until their successors
are elected and qualified.

Sec. 2. Each Department shall elect its own
officers.

ARTICLE VI.

The duties of President, Vice-Presidents, Secretary
and Treasurer shall be those usual to such officers.

ARTICLE VII.

DIRECTORS.

Section 1. The President, Vice-Presidents and
four members shall constitute the Board of Directors,
who will be the managing power of the Club.[Pg 71]

Sec. 2. They shall employ a Curator and provide
for his compensation.

ARTICLE VIII.

CURATOR.

The Curator shall be a taxidermist, and shall have
full charge of the Museum and other property of the
Club, under the direction of the Board of Directors.

ARTICLE IX.

MEMBERSHIP.

Section 1. There shall be three classes of members,
namely, Active, Associate and Honorary.

Sec. 2. An active member is one who has signed
the Constitution, paid his dues, and been admitted to
any of the Departments.

Sec. 3. An Associate member is one who has not
been admitted to any of the Departments.

Sec. 4. Any person may become an Associate
member by signing the Constitution and paying his
dues.

Sec. 5. Honorary members shall be entitled to
all the privileges of the Club except voting. Their
names shall be proposed at one meeting and voted on
at the next, three-fourths of all votes cast being necessary
for election.

Sec. 6. Any member may be expelled by a two
thirds vote of the members present: Provided, That
one week’s notice has been given at a regular meeting[Pg 72].

ARTICLE X.

DUES.

Section 1. An initiation fee of two dollars shall
be charged all persons joining the Club.

Sec. 2. The dues shall be six dollars a year, payable
quarterly, in advance.

Sec. 3. Any member who shall fail to pay his
dues for six consecutive months, shall have his name
stricken from the roll, and be considered no longer a
member: Provided, always, One month’s notice has
been given him in writing by the Curator.

ARTICLE XI.

All questions in dispute between the Departments
shall be referred to the Directors for final settlement.

ARTICLE XII.

The Oregon Camera Club is hereby incorporated
as the Photographic Department of the Oregon Alpine
Club. All members of the Oregon Camera Club
in good standing, becoming members of the Photographic
Department of the Oregon Alpine Club, on
ratification and acceptance of this article by the
Camera Club.

ARTICLE XIII.

AMENDMENTS.

The Constitution may be amended by a two-thirds
vote of members present: Provided, That one month’s
notice has been given in writing, at a regular meeting,
and has also been posted in the Club rooms for
one month.[Pg 73]

EXPLORATION DEPARTMENT.

OFFICERS.

CONSTITUTION

ARTICLE I

NAME.

This body shall be called the Exploration Department
of the Oregon Alpine Club.

ARTICLE II.

OBJECT.

To encourage the exploration of mountains, lakes
and rivers, by either scientists or pleasure seekers, to
foster pleasure outings by land or water, to award appropriate
prizes for meritorious outfits for journeys and
cruises, and for speedy trips on land, and swift cruises
by water; and to conserve the handling of gun and
sail as an accomplishment, and incidentally to encourage
canoeing as a means to reach wide fields for
research and pleasure, awarding prizes for the handling
of the same.[Pg 74]

ARTICLE III.

OFFICERS.

The officers shall be a President, Vice President,
Secretary and Treasurer, whose duties shall be those
usual to such offices.

ARTICLE IV.

MEMBERSHIP.

Section 1. No one shall be competent for membership,
except members of the Oregon Alpine Club.

Sec. 2. It is understood that when the membership
of any person ceases in the Oregon Alpine Club,
such person shall cease to be a member of this
Department.

Sec. 3. All propositions for membership shall be in
writing.

Sec. 4. Every name submitted for membership,
shall be proposed at one meeting, and voted on by
ballot at the next, two-thirds of all members present
being necessary for election.

Sec. 5. Any member may be expelled for conduct
unbecoming a gentleman, by a two-thirds vote of the
members present: Provided, That one month’s notice
has been given at a regular meeting.

ARTICLE V.

DUES.

Section 1. An initiation fee of one dollar shall be
charged all members, and the monthly dues shall be
twenty-five cents each, payable quarterly in advance.[Pg 75]

Sec. 2. Any member who shall fail to pay his regular
dues for six consecutive months, shall have his
name stricken from the roll, due notice having been
given him by the Secretary.

ARTICLE VI.

MEETINGS.

Section 1. Regular meetings shall be held on the
second Monday evening of each month, at such hour
as shall be agreed upon from time to time.

Sec. 2. Special meetings may be called by the
President, or by a call signed by five members: Provided,
That such a call shall state the object of the
meeting.

Sec. 3. An annual meeting shall be held on the
second Monday in December of each year, for the
election of officers, and such other business not provided
for herein.

ARTICLE VII.

TRUSTEES.

A Board of five Trustees shall be chosen at the annual
meeting each year, who shall have the general
management of all the affairs of the Department.

ARTICLE VIII.

QUORUM.

Five members shall constitute a quorum competent
to transact business.

ARTICLE IX.

AMENDMENTS.

This Constitution may be amended by a two-thirds[Pg 76]
vote of members present: Provided, That one month’s
notice has been given in writing at a regular meeting,
and a copy of said notice posted in the Club room for
one month.[Pg 77]

GAME PROTECTIVE DEPARTMENT.

[Not Organized.][Pg 78]

[Pg 79]

PHOTOGRAPHIC DEPARTMENT.

OFFICERS.

President, W. W. Bretherton

Vice President, H. Goldsmith

Secretary and Treasurer, E. E. Norton

CONSTITUTION.

ARTICLE I.

NAME.

This association shall be known as the Photographic
Department of the Oregon Alpine
Club.

ARTICLE II.

OBJECT.

Its object shall be to encourage and promote practical
Photography, and to invite and stimulate discussion
and investigation of all that pertains to
Photographic science and art.

ARTICLE III.

MEMBERSHIP.

The Department shall be composed of such members
of the Oregon Alpine Club who practice
Photography as amateurs, as shall be elected there
and shall be known as active members, and such[Pg 80]
Honorary and Associate members as shall be elected
by the Department from the members of the Oregon
Alpine Club.

Candidates for election may be proposed for election
at one meeting, and voted on at the same meeting.
All applications for membership shall be voted on by
ballot, and it shall require two-thirds of all votes cast
to elect any member.

All professional Photographers who are members of
the Oregon Alpine Club shall be eligible as Associate
members, and shall enjoy all the privileges of the
Department except the right of vote or hold office.

ARTICLE IV.

OFFICERS.

The officers of the Department shall be a President,
Vice-President, one or more, a Secretary, and a
Treasurer; the offices of Secretary and Treasurer being
held by one member if so desired by the Department.

ARTICLE V.

QUORUM.

The attendance of two officers and three or more
members shall be necessary to constitute a quorum
for the transaction of business, but the constitution or
by-laws shall not be changed except at a meeting
called for that purpose by the Secretary and by a vote
of two-thirds of all votes cast.

ARTICLE VI.

ANNUAL MEETING.

The Annual Meeting of the Department shall be[Pg 81]
held on the third Friday of January in each year, for the
election of officers and such other business as may come
before the meeting.

ARTICLE VII.

MONTHLY MEETINGS.

The monthly meeting of the Department shall be held
on the third Friday of each month.

ARTICLE VIII.

DUES.

The dues of the Department shall be $3.00 per year,
payable to the treasurer of the Department.[Pg 82]

PRESIDENTS OF
THE OREGON ALPINE CLUB.

Henry Winslow Corbett, the first president of the
Oregon Alpine Club was elected immediately after its
organization and served until the close of 1888. He was
born at Westborough, Mass., February 18th, 1827, and
came to Oregon, via Cape Horn, with a stock of general
merchandise, arriving at Portland, March 4th, 1851. In
1866, he was elected U. S. Senator and served six years
with credit to himself and honor to his State. He is one
of the wealthiest and most influential men in Oregon.
The following in reference to him is taken from the History
of Portland:

“In person, Mr. Corbett is six feet high, straight and
spare in figure, but symmetrically formed. Cautious,
cool-headed and decided, he is not an inviting mark for
the wiles of the schemer or impostor, but he is thoroughly
approachable, respectful and considerate toward those
whom he meets, and utterly lacking either in the arrogance
of small greatness, or in the still more objectionable
truckling and assumed bonhommie of the small politician.
He is thoroughly dignified, and yet his manners are so
unassumingly easy that one hardly notices them. Indeed
he is a fine type of that well approved manhood in which
courtesy, kindness, dignity, culture, honor and charity are
most happily blended. To these excellences can be[Pg 83]
added unswerving integrity, honesty of purpose, purity of
thought and act, and those crowning virtues born of an
ever present and controlling moral sentiment. His career
shows what can be accomplished by steady and quiet
energy, directed by sound judgment and high purpose.
His name has been associated with numberless successful
enterprises, but not one failure, and he is justly entitled
to a foremost place among those who have created, established
and maintained the commercial and industrial
supremacy of Portland.”

“David P. Thompson, one of the most widely known
men in our State, was born in Harrison county, Ohio, in
1834. In his nineteenth year he came to Oregon, driving
sheep across the plains and walking every rod of the way.
Upon his arrival at Oregon City in 1853 he took a job of
cutting cordwood, which lasted through the winter. Soon
after he entered upon the profession of a surveyor, which
he followed during several years. In pursuance of this
business he acquired an unequaled knowledge of the
northwestern country, and laid the foundation of his present
ample fortune. He lived at Oregon City till 1876,
when he removed to Portland. In 1879, and again in
1881, he was elected mayor, and gave the city a vigorous
and efficient administration. Mr. Thompson, throughout
his whole life, has been noted for activity and energy.
He is a man of firm and positive character, tenacious of
his purposes, active in business and successful in his undertakings.
By appointment of President Grant he became
governor of Idaho Territory in 1875, but resigned
the office in 1876. He is now engaged in the banking
business in Portland.”—(History of Portland,—Scott.)
Mr. Thompson served as president of the Alpine Club in
1889.[Pg 84]

Mr. George B. Markle is at the present time serving
as president of the Alpine Club. He was born in
Hazleton, Lucerne county, Pennsylvania, October 7th,
1857, and came to Oregon in 1886. His desire to locate
in the west led him to make a tour of inspection, which
embraced Kansas, Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, California,
Oregon and Washington. A careful examination of all
this region convinced him that Portland offered the best
inducements as a business point, combined with all the
advantages of an old settled community, and in the fall
of 1886 he permanently located in this city. He immediately
became a factor in the busy life around him, and
displayed a business generalship which marked him
as a man of unusual power, and gave him a place among
the foremost business men of the city seldom accorded in
any community to one of his years. With others he
organized the Oregon National Bank, of which he is
vice president; also the Ellensburgh National Bank, the
Northwest Loan and Trust Company and the Commercial
Bank of Vancouver, being president of the last three corporations
named. He was one of the purchasers of the
Multnomah Street Railway; reorganized the company
and ever since has been its president. He is also president
of the Portland Mining Company, owning the Sunset
group of mines in the famous Cœur d’Alene district.
He was one of the leading spirits in organizing the great
enterprise of the North Pacific Industrial Association;
purchased the land upon which to erect the necessary
buildings and secured a large number of subscriptions to
its capital stock. He was one of the leading spirits in
the organization of the Portland Hotel Company and is
prominently identified with many other enterprises.—(History
of Portland,—Scott.)[Pg 85]

OREGON BIBLIOGRAPHY.

1853.—Adams, Mt.—Called by Winthrop, “Tacoma the
Second,”—(Canoe and Saddle, page 48).

1889.—Called by the Indians “Pat-to,” which signifies
standing up high. With the Indians this was a general
term for snow capped mountains.

Located in latitude 46° 12′ 14.1″, longitude 121° 31′
08.3″.

1775.—Adams Point.—Discovered by Heceta and called
Cape Frondoso (Leafy Cape).

1792.—Capt. Gray subsequently entered the river and
named it Point Adams.—(Life on Puget Sound,—Leighton,
page 48. Pacific States, vol. 22, page 163).

1792.—Admiralty Inlet.—Named by Vancouver for
the Board of Admiralty.—(Life on Puget Sound, p. 155).

1766-9.—Alaska.—Named by Russians.—(Willamette
Valley, page 62). The name is derived from a Russian
corruption of an Aleutian word, “Alakshak,” which signifies
Continent, or a large country. The Russian version
of the term was “Aliaska,” and it applied only to the
prominent peninsula jutting out from the continent.
Made a general term by the United States.—(Supplement
to Encyclopædia Britannica, vol. 1, page 157).

1507.—America.—First applied to the new world in a
work entitled “Cosmographiæ Instructio, etc., in super
quatuor Americi Vespucii Navigationes,” written by Marti[Pg 86]
Waldseemuller, under the assumed name of Hylacomylus
and printed at Saint Die, in Lorraine.—(History of Oregon
and California,—Greenhow, page 48).

1808.—American Fur Company organized.—(Burrows’
Oregon, page 58).

1846.—Applegate, or Southern Route.—Constructed
by Jesse Applegate.—(Pacific States, vol 22, page 642).

1811.—Astoria founded by John Jacob Astor, April
12.—(Encyclopædia Britannica, vol. 2, page 737. History
of the Willamette Valley, page 153).

1813.—Captured by the English and name changed to
St. George.—(Burrows’ Oregon, page 63).

1818.—Repossessed by the United States.—(Burrows’
Oregon, page 65).

1865.—Atmospheric River of Heat.—General
course, effects, etc.—(Miners and Travelers’ Guide,—Muller,
page 61).

1792.—Baker’s Bay.—Named by Broughton for Capt.
Baker, of the brig Jenny.—(Three Years’ Residence in
W. T.,—Swan, page 129).

1792.—Baker, Mt.—Named for Lieut. Baker, by Vancouver,
April 30.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 56).

1853.—Called by Winthrop, “Kulshan,” presumably
because of being the Indian name.—(Canoe and Saddle,
page 47).

1846-8.—Same as Mt. Polk.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton,
vol. 1, page 256).

1868.—The summit is described and illustrated in Harper’s
Monthly for November, page 806, by E. T. Coleman.

1869.—Called by the Spanish, “Montana del Carmelo.”—(Life
on Puget Sound,—Leighton, page 160).[Pg 87]

1842-6.—Barlow Road.—See Indian Trail.

1851.—Battle Rock at Port Orford.—First trip from
here to the Willamette Valley (with notes by a participant).—(Oregon
and Washington,—Armstrong, page 60).

1792.—Bellingham’s Bay.—Named by Vancouver.—(Vancouver,
vol. 2, page 214).

1728.—Behring sent out by Russia on a voyage of discovery.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 22).

1865.—Bitter Root Range.—Same as the Cœur d’Alene
Mountains.—(Miners and Travelers’ Guide,—Mullan,
page 63).

1841.—Blanchet, Father.—Visited by Wilkes.—(Wilkes’
Narrative, vol. 4, page 349).

1775.—Bodega, Don Juan de la.—Sailed north to 58°
and returning discovered Bodega Bay in 38° 18′.—(History
of Oregon,—Twiss, page 57).

Bonneville.—Named for B. L. E. Bonneville, who
explored the Rocky Mountains in 1832 and visited the
Columbia in 1834.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 568).

1792.—Broughton, Lieut.—Entered the Columbia
River, October 20th, and was surprised to find the brig
Jenny, of Bristol, Capt. Baker, lying there at anchor.—(Three
Years’ Residence in W. T.,—Swan, page 129).

1792.—Bulfinch’s Harbor.—Discovered by Captain
Gray.—(Oregon and Its Institutions,—Hines, page 15)
See also, Gray’s Harbor.

1543.—Cabrillo.—See Viscaino.

1775.—Cape Disappointment.—Discovered by Heceta,
August 15, and called Cape San Roque. Named Disappointment
by Mears, because of his not being able to
make the entrance of the river.—(Life on Puget Sound,—Leighton,
page 48).[Pg 88]

1792.—Called Cape Hancock by Gray, but afterwards
changed upon hearing that Mears had already named it.—(Three
Years’ Residence in W. T.,—Swan, page 129).

1778.—Cape Flattery.—Named by Captain Cook.—(Three
Years’ Residence in W. T.,—Swan, page 120).

1792.—Cape Hancock.—See Cape Disappointment.

1812.—Cape Horn.—So named because of the difficulty
experienced in doubling it.—(The Columbia River,—Cox,
vol. 1, page 118).

1766.—Carver, Capt. Jonathan.—A resident of Connecticut
and a soldier of the Canadian war. Left Boston,
by way of Detroit, for the waters of the Upper Mississippi,
and to cross the continent.—(The Oregon Territory,—Nicolay,
page 93).

Cascade Mountains.—Named for the Cascades of the
Columbia River.—(American Cyclopedia, vol. 4, page 511.
Fremont, page 189).

1846-8.—Same as President’s Range.—(Oregon and
California,—Thornton,
vol. 1, page 255).

1805.—Castle Rock, called by Lewis and Clarke, Beacon
Rock.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 47).

1852.—Coal discovered near Seahome by Capt. Pattle.—(Harpers
Magazine for November, 1869, page 795).

1792.—Coffin, Mt.—Originally used as an Indian
burying ground, and discovered by Lieut. Broughton.—(Vancouver,
vol. 3, page 98.—Wilkes Narrative, vol. 4,
page 319).

1775.—Columbia River.—First discovered by Heceta,
August 15.[Pg 89]

Named by him Ensenada de Asuncion, or Assumption
Inlet. The north point was called Cape San Roque, and
the south, Cape Frondoso, (Leafy Cape). In the chart
published in Mexico soon after the conclusion of the
voyage, the entrance is, however, called Ensenada de
Heceta, Hecta Inlet; and Rio de San Roque, River of
St. Roc.

While in command of the sloop Washington, in August,
Capt. Gray discovered, and attempted to enter this opening,
but the sloop grounded on the bar and came near
being lost; and was also attacked by Indians, who killed
one man and wounded the mate.

Gray was shortly afterward transferred to the Columbia,
and on another cruise entered the river; sailed up it
about twenty miles, and bestowed the name of his vessel
upon it.—(Three Years’ Residence in W. T., pages 124
to 128.—Pacific States, vol. 22, page 163.—American Cyclopædia,
vol. 5, page 513).

Many works published before the discovery refer to a
river flowing westward, as “River of the West,” “River
of Aguilar,” “River Thegays.”—(History of Oregon and
California,—Greenhow, pages 144-5).

1805.—Called by the Indians “Spocatilicum”—Friendly
Water.—(Life on Puget Sound,—Leighton, page 50).
The Indians also referred to it as Wahn-na, or Big River.

1816.—The bar was first surveyed by Capt. McClellan,
of the Col. Allen.—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 266).

1846.—Was considered accessible for vessels only three
months in the year.—(The Oregon Territory,—Nicolay,
page 42).

1853.—Comcomli.—This Indian Chief is spoken of by
Winthrop as one Montgomery.—(Canoe and Saddle, page
77).[Pg 90]

1841.—Commencement Bay.—Named by Wilkes.
(Wilkes’ Narrative, vol. 4, page 479).

1778.—Cook, Capt.—Sailed along the coast and sighted
land at 44°, March 7.—(Oregon,—Moseley, page 8.—History
of Oregon and California,—Greenhow, page 150).

1779.—Murdered by natives in the Sandwich Islands
February 16th.—(History of Oregon and California, page
157).

Corvallis.—Of Spanish derivation, and signifies Center
of the Valley. Originally, Marysville.—(Oregon and
Washington,—Armstrong, page 18).

1598.—D’Aguilar, Martin.—See Sebastian Viscanio.

1805.—Des Chutes River.—Called by Lewis, “Towahnahiooks,”
and by Gass, “The Kimmooenim.”—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 41).

1775.—Disappointment, Cape.—See Cape Disappointment.

1786.—Dixon and Postlock were sent out by the
King Georges Sound Co. of London and arrived at Cooks
River in July.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss, page 61).

1824.—Douglas, David.—The botanist who gave his
name to the Douglas pine (Abies Douglasii), and named
over one thousand plants, was sent out by the Royal
Horticultural Society of London, and remained ten years.—(Pac.
States, vol. 23, pages 507-8).

1579.—Drake, Sir Francis.—Sailed along the
coast.—(Oregon,—Moseley, page 8. History of Oregon and
California,—Greenhow, page 73).

False Dungeness, see Port Angeles.[Pg 91]

1542.—Furrelo, Bartoleme.—Sailed with two vessels
to 41° to 44°.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss, pages 26 and
27. History of Oregon and California,—Greenhow, page
64).

1576.—First voyage made from England to seek a
Northwest Passage was made by Martin Frobisher.—(History
of Oregon and California,—Greenhow, page 77).

1793.—First trip to the Pacific, overland, was made by
Sir Alex. Mackenzie, who reached the sea at 52° 20′.—(History
of Oregon,—Twiss, pages 19 and 20).

1806.—First civilized post, or settlement, west of the
Rocky Mountains was made by the Northwest Co., on
Frazer Lake in 54°.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss, page 21).

1810.—First settlement attempted and first house in
Oregon built by Capt. Winship forty miles above the sea
on the south bank of the Columbia.—(Pac. States, vol.
23, page 133. Oregon,—Moseley, page 9).

1814.—First European woman on the Columbia River
was Miss Jane Barnes, who arrived at Astoria on the Isaac
Todd, April 17th.—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 250).

1827.—First fruit tree in Oregon was planted at Vancouver
by John McLaughlin, who also introduced live
stock, vegetables and grain.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page
441).

1836.—First steamer to visit Oregon was the Beaver,
from England—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 600).

1598.—Florez, Antonio.—See Sebastian Viscanio.

1812.—Fraser River.—Known among the Indians as
Tacoutche-Tesse.

1793.—Supposed by Sir Alex. Mackenzie to be the
northern source of the Columbia.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
page 19. Pacific Coast, vol. 22, page 205).[Pg 92]

Named for Simon Fraser, who established a post in that
region in 1805.—(History of Portland,—Scott, page 16).

1713.—France secretly conveys to Spain all her possessions
west of the Mississippi River.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
page 19).

1800.—France recovers the western half of Louisiana
from Spain.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 20).

1803.—France sells her claims to the United States.—(Barrows’
Oregon, pages 21 and 210).

1843.—Fremont follows Whitman to Oregon, arriving
October 23.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 250).

1786.—Fur trade opened by British merchants between
Oregon and China.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss, page 18).

Goat, Mountain.—Known by the Indians as Plas,
(white), because of the white rocks.

1792.—Gray, Capt.—Explored the Columbia river
twenty-five miles, and named it.—(The Oregon Territory,—Nicolay,
page 39).

1792.—Gray’s Bay.—Named by Broughton for Capt.
Gray, of the Columbia.—(Vancouver, vol. 3, page 92).

1789.—Gray’s Harbor.—First called Bulfinch Harbor,
but changed to Gray’s Harbor May 7th.—(Pacific States
vol. 22, page 259).

1791.—Gulf of Georgia.—Called by Don Francisco
Elisa, “Canal de Nuestra Senora del Rosary,” or The
Channel of our Lady of the Rosary.

1792.—Subsequently named by Vancouver in honor of
the king.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 170.—Life on Puget
Sound, page 154).

1846-8.—Harrison, Mt.—See Rainier.[Pg 93]

1771.—Hearne, Sam’l.—An employee of the Hudson
Bay Co. succeeded in tracing the Coppermine river to tide
water in 72°, and his report caused the Lords of Admiralty
to send Capt. Cook to the Northwest Coast.—(History
of Oregon,—Twiss, page 58).

1775.—Heceta, Bruno.—Left San Blas for America
March 16th. Passed up the entire coast of Oregon, discovered
the Columbia river.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
page 567. Oregon,—Moseley, page 8).

1792.—Hood, Mt.—Discovered by Broughton October
29th, and named for Lord Hood.—(Vancouver, vol. 3,
page 107.—N. W. Coast of America,—Franchere, page
112).

1846-8.—Same as Mt. Washington.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton,
vol. 1, page 256).

1846.—Said to be in a state of eruption.—(Oregon and
California, vol. 1, page 336).

1854.—Belden claimed to have ascended it in October,
and reported it as 19,400 feet high. He claimed to have
ascended as high as possible with snowshoes, then with
ice hooks and spikes. When they reached a point some
18,000 feet high respiration became very difficult owing
to the rarity of the atmosphere. At length the blood
began to ooze through the pores of the skin like drops of
sweat; their eyes began to bleed, then the blood gushed
from their ears. Then they commenced their downward
march. At the point where they commenced the ascent
they had left their pack mules, and two men to guard
them. The men went out hunting, and when they returned
found that the cougars had killed two of their
mules.—(Oregon and Washington,—Armstrong, page 38).

(Lying seemed to have been reduced to an art in those
days).[Pg 94]

1864.—Ascended by Rev. H. K. Hines and the summit
described.—(Oregon and its Institutions,—Hines, page
44).

Known among Indians as Pat-to, or high mountain.
This was a general term for any high snow-capped mountain.

Located in latitude 45° 22′ 24.3″. Longitude 121° 42′
49.6″.

1792.—Hood’s Canal.—Named by Vancouver for
Lord Hood.—(Life on Puget Sound, page 155).

1805.—Hood River.—Called by Lewis and Clarke,
La Biche.—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 45).

1670.—Hudson Bay Co.—Chartered May 16th.—(Burrows’
Oregon, page 33).

1842-6.—Indian Trail.—The first pass over the Cascades
used by whites was over the southern flank of
Mount Hood. Near it was afterwards made the Barlow
Road, which was named for Barlow, of Barlow, Palmer
and Rector, who were compelled to abandon their trains
at the summit and were rescued by a relief party from
the Willamette Valley.—(Pac. States, vol. 22, page 645).

1846-8.—Jackson, Mt.—Same as Mt. Pitt of the English.
In lat. 41° 40′.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton,
vol. 1, page 257.)

1806.—Jefferson, Mt.—Named by Lewis and Clarke
for President Jefferson.—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 61).

1846-8.—Called by the British, Mt. Vancouver.—(Oregon
and California,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 257).

Located in latitude 44° 40′ 26.1″. Longitude 121° 48′
59.9″.

1810-12.—John Day.—A Virginian, accompanied the
Northwest Co. to Astoria. He was 6 feet, 2 inches in
height—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page 179).[Pg 95]

1805.—John Day River.—Called by Lewis and
Clarke, the Lepage.—(Pac. States, vol. 23. page 41).

1841.—Johnson, Lieut.—Explores the Cascades from
Puget Sound.—(Wilkes’ Narrative, vol. 4, pages 418 and
424).

1787.—Juan de Fuca Straits.—Discovered by Capt.
Barclay, of the Imperial Eagle.

1788.—The entrance was explored by Capt. Meares, in
the Felice, and named by him.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
p. 19.—Pac. States, vol. 22, page 197).

1805.—Klickitat River.—Called by Lewis and Clarke,
Cataract River.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 45).

1833.—Kelly, Hall J.—First called attention to the
feasibility of settling the Pacific Coast by overland emigration.
Arrived at Vancouver this year.—(Pacific States,
vol. 23, page 549).

1841.—Lava formation limited to 48° N.—(Wilkes’
Narrative, vol. 4, page 457).

1792.—Ledyard leaves Paris for America, under the
direction of Jefferson, to discover the River of the West,
but is stopped by the Russians.—(Miners’ and Travelers’
Guide,—Mullan, page 53).

1834.—Lee, Rev. Jason.—Established the first Mission
in the Willamette valley, ten miles below the present
Salem.—(History of the Willamette Valley, page 208).

1840.—Established a Methodist Mission at the Willamette
Falls.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 607).

1805-6.—Lewis and Clarke.—Spent the winter at the
mouth of the Columbia.—(Oregon,—Moseley, page 8).[Pg 96]

Lewis River.—The North Fork was known among
Indians as Wicht, and was considered the main river.
The South Fork was known as Wa-co-ko, a Pike, (fish);
also Yac-co, for Yac-co prairies, near Mt. St. Helens.

1789.—Mackenzie River.—Named for Alexander
Mackenzie.—(Zell’s Encyclopedia, vol. 2, page 264).

1793.—Mackenzie, Sir Alex.—Reached the Pacific
overland, July 22.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 34).

1812.—McKenzie, Donald.—Explored the Willamette
Valley one hundred miles or more.—(Pac. States,
vol. 23, page 195).

1818.—McKenzie established Ft. Walla Walla.—(Pac.
States, vol. 23, page 273).

1825.—McLaughlin, John..—Established Fort Vancouver,
introduced live stock, fruit, vegetables, grain, etc.

Took possession of Willamette Falls.—(Pac. States, vol.
23, pages 441 and 505).

Madison, Mt.—Is the Mt. McLaughlin of the British.
Lat. 43° 30′.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton, vol.
1, page 257).

Mary’s River.—Named for an Indian woman, wife of
a white man, who had great trouble in making the crossing.
Afterwards applied to Mary’s Peak, because the
river rises there.—(Oregon and its Institutions,—Hines,
page 22).

1788.—Meares, Capt.—Reached the mouth of the
Columbia without discovering it, July 6th.—(History of
Oregon,—Twiss, page 95).

1840.—Meek, Joe.—Arrived in the Willamette Valley.—(Pac.
States, vol. 23, page 456).[Pg 97]

1846.—Modoc Lakes.—Discovered by Jesse Applegate.—(Pac.
States, vol. 22, page 642).

1823.—Monroe Doctrine proclaimed.—(Burrows’
Oregon, page 24).

1846-8.—Monroe, Mt.—Same as Mt. Shasta—(Ore.
and Cal.,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 257).

1853.—Nachess Pass.—5000 feet above sea level.—(Narrative
of 1853,—Stevens, vol. 1, page 259).

1792.—Neah Bay.—Called by Vancouver, Poverty
Cove, and by the Spaniards, Port Nunez Gaona.—(Three
Years’ Residence in W. T.,—Swan, page 119).

1579.—New Albion.—Named by Drake, who was
crowned by the natives as their king.—History of Oregon
and California,—(Greenhow, page 73; also, page 53 Mountains
of Oregon.)

1792.—New Dungeness.—Named by Vancouver for
Dungeness, in the British Channel, because of the similar
appearance.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 55).

1883.—Nickel Deposit in Douglas County.—(Mineral
Resources of the U. S.,—Williams, page 403).

1778.—Nootka Sound.—Discovered by Capt. Cook,
and named King George’s Sound, then changed by him
to Nootka.—(Voyages of Capt. Cook, vol. 2, page 270.)

1790.—Nootka Treaty.—Formed between Spain and
England.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 14).

1818.—Northern Boundary of the U. S. located at
49° due west to the Rocky Mountains.—(Burrow’s Oregon,
page 54)[Pg 98].

1843.—Nez Perces.—Pierced Nose.—(Fremont, page
181).

1834.—Nuttall and Townsend, scientists, arrived at
Fort Vancouver with Wyeth.—(Pac. States, vol. 23, page
577).

1792.—Oak Point.—Named by Broughton because of
finding the first oak trees there.—(Vancouver, vol. 3, page
100).

1788.—Olympus, Mt.—Named by Capt. Meares, July
4th. Discovered by Juan Perez, a Spanish pilot, and
called El Cero de la Santa Rosalia.—(Narrative of 1853,
vol. 1, page 262).

1774.—Oregon.—First used by Capt. Jonathan Carver.—(History
of the Willamette Valley, page 73. See also
page 53, Mountains of Oregon).

1846.—Bounded on the north by the 49°, on the east by
the Rocky Mountains, on the south by the 42°, and on the
west by the Pacific Ocean.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton,
page 251).

1846.—Northern boundary first settled by treaty, July
17.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 282).

1871-2.—Northern boundary finally settled by arbitration.—(Barrows’
Oregon, pages 56 and 318).

1874.—Once inhabited by a great number and variety
of pre-Adamite beasts.—(The Columbia River and Puget
Sound,—Nordhoff, Harper’s Magazine for February, page
344).

1818.—Occupied jointly by the United States and England
for ten years.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 55).

1859.—Admitted to the Union with present limits, February
14th.—(Zell’s Encyclopedia, vol. 2, page 527. Hill’s
Annotated Laws of Oregon, vol. 1, page 77).[Pg 99]

1792.—Orford, Cape.—Named by Vancouver for Earl
(George) Orford.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 23).

1812-13.—Pacific Fur Company.—The plot to rob
Astor shown up by an Englishman.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
page 24).

1513.—Pacific Ocean.—Discovered by Vasco Nunez
de Balboa, governor of the Spanish colony of Darien, and
named by Fernando Magalhaens, or, Magellan, a Portuguese
in the naval service of Spain, because of being so
little disturbed by storms. Spoken of as “Mar del Sur.”—(History
of Oregon and California,—Greenhow, pages
48 and 78. Barrows’ Oregon, page 2).

1835.—Parker, Rev. Samuel.—Sent to Oregon by the
American Board of Foreign Missions.—(Oregon and California,
vol. 2, page 22).

1745.—Parliamentary Grant.—£20,000 voted by
the House of Commons for the discovery of a northwest
passage by a British vessel.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
page 58).

1774.—Perez, Juan.—Anchored in Nootka Sound.—(History
of Oregon,—Twiss, page 55).

1846-8.—Pitt, Mt.—Called at one time Mt. Jackson.
(Oregon and California,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 257).

1792.—Point Adams.—See Adams’ Point.

Point de los Reys.—Named by the Spaniards.—(Vancouver,
vol. 2, page 413).

1791.—Port Angeles.—Named by Don Francisco
Elisa, the Mexican. Called by Vancouver False Dungeness,
because of a similar appearance to New Dungeness.—(Life
on Puget Sound, page 153).[Pg 100]

1792.—Port Discovery.—Named by Vancouver, for
one of his ships.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 66).

1841.—Port Gamble.—Named by Wilkes for Gamble,
a U. S. Naval officer.—(Narrative of 1853, vol. 1, page
284).

1869.—Known among Indians as Teekalet.—(Life on
Puget Sound, page 156).

1842.—Portland.—Established by A. L. Lovejoy and
F. W. Pettygrove, and name agreed upon by tossing up a
cent.—(Portland City Directory for 1872, page 10).

1786.—Portlock, Capt.—See Dixon and Portlock.

1841.—Port Ludlow.—Surveyed by Wilkes, and
named for Ludlow, a U. S. Naval officer.—(Narrative of
1853, vol. 1, page 283).

1792.—Port Townsend.—Visited by Vancouver, May
8th, and named in honor of the Marquis of Townshend,
who signed Vancouver’s instructions. The h was subsequently
dropped.—(Life on Puget Sound, page 155.
Stephens’ Narrative of 1853, vol. 1, page 283. Vancouver,
vol. 2, page 76).

1853.—Known among Indians as Kahtai.—(Canoe and
Saddle,—Winthrop, page 11).

1854.—Surveyed by the U. S. Coast Survey.—(Stevens’
Narrative of 1853, vol. 1, page 283).

1792.—Possession Sound.—So named by Vancouver,
because he landed there on King George’s birthday, and
took possession of the country.—(The Oregon Territory,—Nicolay,
page 53.—Vancouver, vol. 2, page 170).

1792.—Puget Sound.—Discovered by Vancouver’s
lieutenant, Peter Puget, and so named by Vancouver
May 19th.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 146.—Narrative of
1853, vol. 1, page 289).[Pg 101]

1853.—Known among Indians as Whulge.—(Canoe and
Saddle,—Winthrop, page 11; also among Klalams as
K’uk’-luts page 43).

1792.—Protection Island.—Named by Vancouver
because of its advantageous location with reference to the
harbor.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 67).

1787.—Queen Charlotte Islands.—Named by
Dixon.—(Encyclopædia Britannica, vol. 20, page 170).

1789.—Capt. Gray sailed round it and named it Washington,
for his sloop.—(Backwoods of Canada and Oregon
Territory,—Nicolay, page 38).

1786.—Queen Charlotte Sound.—Named by Wedgboro
in August.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 308.)

1841.—Rainier and St. Helens in activity.—(Wilkes
Narrative, vol. 4, page 440).

1792.—Rainier, Mt.—Discovered by Vancouver on
May 8th and named for Rear Admiral Rainier of the
English Navy.—(Vancouver, vol. 2, page 79).

1843.—An active volcano, November 13.—(Fremont,
page 193).

1846-8.—Also known as Mt. Harrison.—(Oregon and
California,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 257. See pages 54,
55 and 59. Also Tacoma).

Rock Creek, near Mt. St. Helens, known among
Indians as “Cut-to” (a sort of guttural sound on first
syllable), which means “swift stream.”

1742-3.—Rocky Mountains.—Named by Verendrye
Brothers.—(History of the Willamette Valley, page 70).

1798.—Russian American Fur Co. given exclusive
privileges.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 23).[Pg 102]

1821.—Russia claims by public decree all of the Pacific
Coast north of latitude 51°. This claim was disputed by
the U. S.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 24).

1812.—Russians established at Bodega Bay.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 23).

1820.—Russians establish a fort forty miles north of Bodega
Bay.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 23).

1766.—Russian Fur Companies organized to operate in
America.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 23).

1824.—Russia withdraws to 54° 40′.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
page 25).

1824.—Russia withdraws from California at the request
of the U. S.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 26).

1697.—Ryswick Treaty Formed.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
page 1. American Cyclopedia, vol. 14, page 245).

1842.—Saddle Mountain.—Called by the Indians
“Swallalahoost.” Named by Wilkes, “Saddle Mountain.”—(Oregon
and Its Institutions,—Hines, page 21).

1805.—Sandy River.—Called by Lewis & Clarke,
“Quicksand River.”—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 48).

1741.—St. Elias, Mt.—Discovered by Behring, July
18th.—(History of the Willamette Valley, page 58).

1792.—St. Helens, Mt.—Named by Vancouver for
His Majesty’s ambassador at Madrid, October 20.—(Vancouver,
vol. 2, page 399).

1831.—In a state of eruption.—(Oregon and California,—Thornton,
vol. 1, page 256).

1843.—In activity November 13.—(Fremont, page 193).

1846.—Known among Americans as Mt. Washington.—(The
Oregon Territory,—Nicolay, page 109).

1843.—Described when in a state of eruption.—(History
of Oregon,—Wilkes, page 109).[Pg 103]

1846-8.—Known also as Mt. John Adams.—(Oregon and
California,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 256).

1852-4.—An active volcano.—(Three years’ residence in
W. T., Swan—page 395. Canoe and Saddle, page 48).

Known among Indians as “Lou-wala’-clough,” meaning
Smoking Mountain.

Located in latitude 46° 11′ 52.3″. Longitude 122° 12′
37″.

1805.—Sauvies Island.—Called by Lewis and Clarke,
Wapato Island, because of an abundance of wapatos found
there. It subsequently acquired its name from Jean
Baptiste Sauve, a French Canadian, who established a
dairy there after the abandonment of Ft. William.—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, pages 48 and 598).

Seattle.—Named for an Indian.—(Harper’s Monthly
for September, 1870, page 490).

1846.—Shasta, Mt.—Called Pitt by the English, Jackson
and Monroe by the Americans, and Shasta by the
trappers.—(The Oregon Territory,—Nicolay, page 109).
(Oregon and California,—Thornton, vol 1, page 257).

1788.—Shoalwater Bay.—Discovered and named by
Captain John Mears, July 5th.—(Mears’ Voyages, vol. 1,
page 263).

1852.—First surveyed by Lieut. Com. Alden.—(Narrative
of 1853, vol. 1, page 263).

1792.—Skagit Head.—Named by Vancouver.—(Life
on Puget Sound, page 156).

1836.—Slacum, Wm. A.—An agent of the State
Department, in the guise of a private citizen, visited the
Columbia and Willamette Rivers.—(Pacific States, vol.
23, page 602).[Pg 104]

Spain’s First Claim to Oregon.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
page 12).

1795.—Spain withdraws from Oregon.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
page 14).

Spaniards coveted a position in the East Indies, but the
Bull of Pope Alexander III precluded them from sailing
eastward, round the Cape of Good Hope, hence their
attempts to go by way of the Pacific.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss,
page 50).

1800.—Spanish territory west of the Mississippi conveyed
to France.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 210).

1814.—Spanish claims conceded to the United States
through France and acknowledged by Great Britain.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 208).

Spelyah Prairie.—An Indian name, meaning Cayote.

Spirit Lake.—Near Mt. St. Helens. Indian name,
Che-wa-tum, meaning Spirit.

1499-1500.—Straits of Anian.—Supposed to have
been discovered by Gaspar Cortereal, who explored the
coasts of Labrador, and named by him. The name possibly
signifies Brother. Cortereal had two brothers with
him. In the earliest maps the northwest part of America
is called Ania. Ani, in the Japanese language, signifies
Brother.—(History of Oregon and California,—Greenhow,
page 47).

1592.—Purchas claimed in the seventeenth century, in
his “Pilgrims”—a narrative—that a Greek pilot, called
Juan de Fuca, in the service of the Spaniards, had informed
Michael Lock, the elder, whilst he was sojourning
at Venice, that he had discovered (1596) the outlet of the
Straits of Anian, in the Pacific Ocean, between 47° and[Pg 105]
48°, and had sailed through it into the North Sea.—(History
of Oregon,—Twiss, page 18.—History of Oregon
and California,—Greenhow, page 87).

1841.—Sunken Forest in the Columbia described.—(Wilkes’
Narrative, vol. 4, page 381.—Burnett’s Recollections
of a Pioneer, page 136.—The Oregon Territory,
Nicolay,—page 137.—Fremont, page 195).

1841.—Survey of Puget Sound finished.—(Wilkes’
Narrative, vol. 4, page 479).

Tacoma, Mt.—Ta-ho-ma is the Indian name for the
Great Spirit who dwells on the mountains.—(George
Baily, in the Overland Monthly for Sept., 1886, page 268).

1853.—Called by the Indians, Tacoma, a generic term
also applied to all snow peaks.—(Canoe and Saddle,—Winthrop,
page 44).

Tacoma the Second.—See Mt. Adams.

Tamanous is the name of the Great Spirit supposed to
dwell on this mountain.—(Canoe and Saddle, page 131).
Tacoma the Less—(Canoe and Saddle, page 280). Each
fiery Tacoma.—(Canoe and Saddle, page 286). The eruptions
of the Tacomas.—(Canoe and Saddle, page 287).
Tacoma, the Nourishing Breast. Tahoma, almost to
Heaven.—(Life on Puget Sound,—Leighton, page 39).
Red Tamahnous, Love.—(Life on Puget Sound,—page 41),
Black Tamahnous, Hate, Anger.—(Life on Puget Sound,
page 114).

1841.—Tenino Mounds.—Described.—(Wilkes’ Narrative,
vol. 4, page 415).

1848-9.—Territorial Government.—Granted, covering
all the original Oregon.—(Barrow’s Oregon, page
335. Encyclopædia Britannica, vol. 17, page 825. General
Laws of Oregon, page 52).[Pg 106]

The Dalles.—Stone pavement, or trough, or gutter.—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 44).

1788.—Tillamook Bay.—Known as Murderers’ Harbor
and Quicksand Bay.—(Pacific States, vol. 22, pages
188 and 198).

1806.—Tillamook, or Killamook Head.—Called by
Clarke, Clarke’s Point of View.—(Pacific States, vol. 22,
page 164, and vol. 23, page 58).

1792.—Tongue Point.—Named by Broughton.—(Vancouver,
vol. 3, page 86).

1805.—Called by Lewis and Clarke, William.—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 53).

1834.—Townsend, John K.—A member of the Philadelphia
Academy of Natural Science, arrived at Vancouver
with Wyeth, Sept. 16th.—(Townsend’s Narrative,
page 169. Pacific States, vol. 23, page 577).

Trout Lake.—Near Mt. St. Helens. Known among
Indians as Qual-i’-as, meaning Trout.

1806.—Umatilla River.—Called by the Indians,
“Youmalolam.”—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 64). Named
for the Umatilla tribe of Indians.

1832.—Umpqua Fort.—Built by John McLeod for the
Hudson’s Bay Co.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 521).

1792.—United States’ Claims to Oregon.—1st, right
of discovery; 2d, by the Louisiana purchase; 3d, by prior
explorations; 4th, by prior settlements.—(Barrows’ Oregon,
pages 213, 216, 217 and 219).

1713.—Utrecht Treaty.—Between France and England.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 18).[Pg 107]

1846-8.—Van Buren, Mt.—Same as Olympus.—(Oregon
and California,—Thornton, vol. 1, page 257).

1826.—Vancouver, Fort.—Established by John McLaughlin,
and

1849.—As a United States military post.—(Pacific States,
vol. 23, pages 437 and 439).

1792.—Vancouver Island.—Named by Vancouver,
Quadra and Vancouver Island.—(Vancouver, vol. 2,
page 357).

1598.—Viscaino, Sebastian.—Reached a headland at
42° to which he gave name of Cape Sebastian. The
smallest of his three vessels, however, conducted by Martin
d’Aguilar and Antonio Florez, doubled Cape Mendocino
and reached 43° where they found the mouth of a

1543.—River which Cabrillo has been supposed to have
discovered.—(History of Oregon,—Twiss, page 53).

1818.—Walla Walla, Fort.—Established by McKenzie.—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 273).

1805.—Wapato Island.—See Sauvie’s Island, also—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 593).

Wasco.—Horn Basin.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 44).

1853.—Washington Territory formed March 2d.—(American
Cyclopedia, vol. 12, page 560. Zell’s Encyclopædia,
vol. 2, page 527).

1805.—Washougal River.—Called by Lewis and
Clarke, Seal River.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 48).

1792.—Whidby’s Island.—Named by Vancouver for
one of his officers who explored it.—(Vancouver, vol. 2,
page 180).[Pg 108]

1805.—White Salmon.—Called Canoe River by Lewis
and Clarke.—(Pacific States, vol. 23. page 45).

1836.—Whitman, Dr. Marcus, arrived at Vancouver
in September.—(History of the Willamette Valley, page
213).

1842.—Started on his famous ride to Washington, October
3d, to prevent our government from abandoning Oregon.—(Barrow’s
Oregon, page 166).

1843.—Saved by a mule.—(Barrows’ Oregon, page 170).

1843.—Returns from Washington, September 4th, accompanied
by 200 wagons and 875 immigrants.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 250).

1847.—Murdered by the Indians in November.—(Barrows’
Oregon, page 320).

1841.—Wilkes, Charles,—Drayton, R. R. Waldron
and two other men visited the Willamette Valley on a
scientific campaign.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 673.
Wilkes’ Narrative, vol. 4, page 341).

1829.—Willamette Falls taken possession of by
McLaughlin, and a saw mill established.—(Pacific States,
vol. 23, page 505).

1806.—Willamette River.—Part of it called by the
Indians Multnomah.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 60).

1843.—Winds, peculiarity of, in the Columbia River.—(Fremont,
page 190).

1834.—Work, John.—explored the Umpqua region.—(Pacific
States, vol. 23, page 527).

1832.—Wyeth, Nathaniel J.—Arrives at Vancouver.

1834.—Arrives there second time, September 16th. Established
Fort William and a Salmon fishery on Wapato
Island on his second trip.[Pg 109]

1837.—Returns to Oregon again and sells Forts William
and Hall to the Hudson’s Bay Co.—(Pacific States, vol.
23, pages 564, 592, 594 and 598).

Yaquina Bay.—Probably named for Yaquina, a female
Indian chief.—(Life on Puget Sound, page 174).

1805.—Young’s Bay.—Called by Lewis and Clarke,
Meriwether Bay.—(Pacific States, vol. 23, page 54).

1792.—Young’s River.—Named by Broughton for Sir
George Young of the Royal Navy.—(Vancouver, vol. 3,
page 90).

TOPICAL INDEX.

A

• Adams, C. F., 3.
  • —Mt., 40, 47, 51, 52, 85.
• Admiralty Inlet, 85.
• Alaska, 85.
  • —Alakshak, 85.
  • —Aliaska, 85.
• Alden, Lieut. Com., 103.
• America, 85, 95.
• American Bd. of Frn. Msns., 89.
  • —Fur Co., 86.
• Ania, 104.
• Applegate, Jesse, 86, 97,
  • —Route, 86.
• Astoria, 86.
• Astor, John Jacob, 86.
• Atmospheric, River of Heat, 86.

B

• Baker, Capt., 86, 87.
  • —Lieut., 52, 86.
  • —Mt., 40, 42, 52, 56, 86.
• Baker’s Bay, 86.
• Barclay, Capt., 95.
• Barlow,
  • —Palmer and Rector, 94.
  • —Road, 87.
• Barnes, Miss Jane, 91.
• Battle Rock, 87.
• Beacon Rock, 52, 88.
• Beaver, Steamer, 91.
• Behring, 87, 102.
• Belden, 93.
• Bellingham’s Bay, 87.
• Bitter Root Range, 52,87.
• Blanchet, Father, 87.
• Board of Admiralty, 85.
• Bodega, Bay, 87, 102.
  • —Don Juan de la, 87.
• Bonneville, B. L. E., 87.
• Bourbon River, 53.
• Breck, J. M. Jr., 3.
• Bretherton, W. W., 69, 79.
• Broughton, Lieut., 52, 53, 54, 86, 87, 88, 92, 93, 98, 106, 109.
• Bulfinch’s Harbor, 87, 92.

C

• Cabrillo, 87, 107.
• California, 21, 40, 84, 102.
• Canal de Nuestra del Rosary, 92.
• [Pg 110]
• Cape Disappointment, 87, 90.
• Cape Flattery, 88.
• Cape Frondoso, 85, 89.
• Cape Hancock, 88.
• Cape Horn, 52, 82, 88.
• Cape Mendocino, 107.
• Cape San Roque, 87, 89.
• Cape Sebastian, 107.
• Canoe River, 108.
• Carver, Capt. Jonathan, 53, 88, 98.
• Cascade Range, 3, 6, 21, 52, 56, 88, 94, 95.
• Cascades of the Columbia, 88.
• Casey, Edw., 73.
• Castle Rock, 52, 88.
• Cataract River, 95.
• Cathedral Rock, 21.
• Clark’s Point of View, 54, 106.
• Cleetwood, 18, 19, 22, 23, 24.
  • —Cove, 25.
• Coast of Cal. in South Sea, 54.
• Cœur d’Alene Mts., 52.
• Coffin, Mt., 52, 88.
• Coleman, E. T., 86.
• Columbia River, 3, 7, 8, 52, 87, 88, 91, 92, 93, 95, 96, 103.
• Comcomli, 89.
• Commencement Bay, 59, 90.
• Cook, Capt., 88, 90, 93, 97.
• Cooks River, 90.
• Coppermine River, 93.
• Corbett, Hon. H. W., 67,82.
• Cortereal, Gaspar, 104.
• Corvallis, 90.
• Cosmographiæ Instructio, 85.
• Cottel, Dr. Willis I., 73.
• Crater Lake, 12, 13, 15, 17, 18, 25, 29, 31, 32, 33.
• Cut-to, 101.

D

• d’Aguilar, Martin, 90, 107.
• Davey, Allen, 15.
• Davidson, Elijah, 35.
• Davis, Capt. Geo. W., 17, 18, 25.
• Day, John, 94.
  • —River, 95.
• de Balboa, Vasco Nunez, 99.
• Deep Blue Lake, 13.
• Deschutes River, 90.
• Dewert, E. D., 34, 36.
• Diamond Peak, 54.
• Dixon, 90, 100, 101.
• Dodd, Mr., 13.
• Douglas, David, 90.
• Drake, Sir Francis, 90.
• Durham, N. W., 3.
• Dutton, Capt., C. E., 17, 18, 25.
  • —Cliff, 25, 28, 30.

E

• Eels, Edwin, 57.
• El Cero de la Santa Rosalia, 54, 98.
• Elisa, Don Francisco, 92, 99.
• Ensenada de Asuncion, 89.
  • ”                ”        Heceta, 89.
• Evans, Elwood, 65.
• Exploration Department, 71.

F

• False Dungeness,90, 99.
• Felice, The, 95.
• Finch, Capt. D. B., 59.
• Flett, John, 61, 63.
• Florez, Antonio, 91, 107.
• Fraser River, 91.
  • —Simon, 92.
• Frazer Lake, 91.
• Fremont, 92.
• Frobisher, Martin, 91.
• Furrelo, Bartoleme, 91.

G

• Game Protective Department, 77.
• Gill, John, 69.
• Goat Mountain, 53, 92.
• Goldsmith, H., 79.
• Gorman, M. W., 73.
• Gove, Chas. H., 3, 51.
• Government Camp, 4, 6, 9.
• Grant’s Pass, 34, 39.
• Gray, Capt., 85, 87, 88, 89, 92, 101.
• Gray’s Bay, 92.
  • —Harbor, 92.
• Gulf of Georgia, 92.

H

• Hall, Fort, 109.
• Harkness, H. D., M. M., and F. M., 34.
• Harrison, Mt., 54, 92, 101.
• Hearne, Sam’l., 93.
• Heceta, 87, 88, 93.
• Hermann, Hon. Binger, 17.
• Hillman, J. W., 13.
• Himes, Geo. H., 69.
• Hines, Rev. H. K., 94.
• Hood, Lord, 53, 93, 94.
  • —Mt., 3, 7, 10, 33, 40, 41, 45, 47, 51, 53, 93, 94.
  • —River, 94.
• Hood’s Canal, 94.
• Hudson’s Bay, 53.
  • —Co., 61, 93, 94, 106, 109.
• Hylacomylus, 86.

I

• Idleman, C. M., 69.
• Imperial Eagle, The, 95.
• Indian Trail, 94.
• Ingram, Prof., 49.
• Isaac Todd, The, 91.

J

• Jack, Capt., 41.
• Jackson, Mt., 94, 99, 103.
• Jefferson, 95.
  • —Mt. 6, 7, 40, 53, 94.
• John Adams, Mt., 54, 103.
• Johnson, Lieut., 95.
• Josephine County Caves, 34.
• Juan de Fuca, 95, 104.

K

• Kahtai, 100.
• Keene, Dr. J. M., 3,6.
• Kelly, Hall J., 95.
• Killamook Head, 54, 106.
• [Pg 111]
• Kimmooenim, 90.
• King George’s Sound, 97.
  • —Co., 90.
• Klamath, Ft., 12.
  • —Indians, 12, 15, 16, 17.
  • —Lake, 21.
• Klickitat Indians, 64.
  • —River, 95.
• Ko-ma, 56.
• Kukluts, 54.
• Kulshan, 86.

L

• La Riche, 94.
• Lake Majesty, 13.
• Ledyard, 95.
• Lee, Rev. Jason, 95.
• Lepage, The, 95.
• Lewis & Clarke, 52, 53, 54, 88, 94, 95, 102, 103, 106, 107, 108, 109.
• Lewis River, 96.
• Llao Rock, 14, 21, 24, 25, 30, 31, 32.
• Lock, Michael, 104.
• Longmire, 44, 48.
• Louden, James, 13.
• Lords of Admiralty, 93.
• Louisiana, 92.
• Lou-wala-clough, 54, 103.
• Lovejoy, A. L., 100.
• Ludlow, 100.

M

• Mackenzie, Sir Alex., 91, 96.
  • —River, 96.
• Madison, Mt., 53, 96.
• Magalhaens, Fernando, 99.
• Mar del Sur, 99.
• Markle, Geo. B., 68, 69, 84.
• Mary’s Peak, 7, 96.
  • —River, 96.
• Marysville, 90.
• McCarver, Genl., 59.
• McClellan, 89.
• McKenzie, 107.
  • —Donald, 96.
• McLaughlin, John, 53, 91, 96, 107, 108.
  • —Mt., 7, 53, 96.
• McLeod, John, 106.
• McManus, Pat., 13.
• Meares, Capt., 54, 87, 88, 95, 96, 98, 103.
• Meek, Joe, 96.
• Meriwether Bay, 109.
• Mill Creek, 27.
• Mississippi River, 53, 92, 104.
• Modoc Lakes, 97.
• Monroe Doctrine, 97.
  • —Mt. 97, 103.
• Montana del Carmelo, 52, 86.
• Montgomery, 89.
• Murderer’s Harbor, 106.
• Multnomah, 108.
• Mysterious Lake, 13.

N

• Nachess Pass, 97.
• Nea Bay, 97.
• New Albion, 53, 97.
•    ”    Caledonia, 53.
•    ”    Dungeness, 97, 99.
•    ”    Georgia, 53.
•    ”    Tacoma, 60, 61.
• Nez Perces, 98.
• Nichols, J., 43, 44, 48.
• Nickel deposit, 97.
• Nicolini, S. S., 34.
• Nootka Sound, 97, 99.
  • —Treaty, 97.
• Northern boundary of U. S., 97.
• Northwest Co., 91, 94.
  • —Passage, 91, 99.
• Norton, E. E., 79.

O

• Oak Point, 98.
• Olympus, Mt., 54, 98, 107.
• Oregon, 3, 40, 54, 82, 83, 84, 91, 92, 93, 98.
  • —Alpine Club, 40, 49, 51, 67, 69, 82.
• Orford, 99.

P

• Pacific Fur Co., 99.
  • —Ocean, 99.
• Paradise Valley, 45.
• Parker, Rev. Sam’l., 99.
• Parliamentary Grant, 99.
• Pattle, Capt., 88.
• Pat-to, 52, 85, 94.
• Perez, Juan, 54, 98, 99.
• Pettygrove, F. W.,100.
• Phantom Ship, 29.
• Photographic Department, 79.
• Pitt, Mt., 21, 40, 94, 99, 103.
• Plas, 53, 92.
• Point Adams, 8, 85, 99.
•    ”    de los Reys, 99.
• Polk, Mt., 52, 86.
• Pope, Alexander III, 104.
• Port Angeles, 99.
•    ”  Discovery, 100.
•    ”  Gamble, 100.
• Portland, 3, 4, 7, 8, 17, 19, 32, 34, 49, 59, 82, 83, 100.
• Portlock, Capt., 91, 100.
• Port Ludlow, 100.
•    ”  Nunez Gaona, 97.
•    ”  Townsend, 100.
• Poverty Cove, 97.
• Possession Sound, 100.
• President’s Range, 52, 88.
• Protection Island, 101.
• Puget, Peter, 54, 100.
  • —Sound, 54, 55, 59, 60, 61, 64, 95, 100.
• Purchas, 104.
• Puyallup, 60.
  • —Indians, 55, 56, 61, 64.

Q

• Quadra and Vancouver’s Island, 107.
• Qualias, 106.
• Queen Charlotte Islands, 101.
  • —Sound, 101.
• Quicksand Bay, 106.
  • —River, 102.

R

• Rainier, Mt., 40, 43, 51, 54, 55, 59, 60, 61, 64, 101.
  • —Rear Admiral, 54, 101.
• [Pg 112]
• River Aguilar, 89.
•     ”    of the West, 53, 89, 95.
•     ”    Thegays, 89.
• Rio de San Roque, 89.
• Rock Creek, 101.
• Rocky Mountains, 54, 91, 101.
• Rogue River, 27.
  • —Falls, 27.
• Ross, Geo., 13.
• Royal Hort. Soc. of London, 90.
• Russian American Fur Co., 101.
• Ryswick Treaty, 102.

S

• Saddle Mountain, 54, 102.
• San Blas, 93.
• Sandy River, 102.
• Sauvie, Jean Baptiste, 103.
  • —Island, 103, 107.
• Sba-date, 57.
• Scott, Mt., 21.
• Seahome, 88.
• Seal River, 107.
• Seattle, 57, 103.
• Shasta, Mt., 31, 33, 40, 97, 103.
• Shoalwater Bay, 103.
• Siskiyou Mountains, 34.
• Skagit, 56, 103.
• Skeeters, Isaac, 13.
• Slacum, Wm. A., 103.
• Spelyah Prairie, 104.
• Spirit Lake, 104.
• Spocatilicum, 89.
• Squallys, 61, 64.
• Squa-tach, 56, 57.
• Squat-utsh, 56.
• Stanup, Rev. Peter, 56, 57.
• Starr, Lewis M., 59.
• Steel, James, 59.
• Steel, W. G., 55, 69, 73.
• St. Elias, Mt., 102.
• Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 60.
• St. George, 86.
• St. Helens, Mt., 40, 47, 51, 54, 101, 102, 106.
• St. Lawrence River, 53.
• Stony Mountains, 54.
• Straights of Anian, 53, 104.
• Sunken Forest, 105.
• Survey of Puget Sound, 105.
• Swallalahoost, 54, 102.

T

• Tacoma, 43,51, 55, 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 105.
  • —The Less, 105.
  • —The Second, 52, 85, 105.
  • —Mt., 54, 55, 58, 60, 105.
  • —Land Co., 56, 60.
  • —Ta-ho-ma, 105.
  • —Ta-ke-man, 55.
  • —Ta-ko-ber, 63.
  • —Ta-ko-bet, 55, 56.
  • —Ta-ko-man, 56, 57, 58, 63.
  • —Tamanous, 105.
  • —Te-ho-ma, 60, 63, 64.
  • —Twheque, 57.
  • —Twhauk, 57, 58.
• Tacoutche, Tesse, 91.
• Teekalet, 100.
• Tenino, 105.
• The Dalles, 106.
• Thielsen, Mt., 21.
• Thompson, Hon. D. P., 67, 83.
• Three Sisters, 7, 40.
• Tillamook Head, 54, 106.
• Tongue Point, 106.
• Towahnahiooks, 90.
• Townsend, John K., 98, 106.
• Townshend, Marquis, 100.
• Trout Lake, 106.

U

• Umatilla River, 106.
• Umpqua, 108.
  • —Fort, 106.
• U. S. Claims to Oregon, 106.
• Utrecht Treaty, 106.

V

• Van Buren, Mt., 54, 107.
• Vancouver, Capt., 52, 54, 59, 60, 85, 86, 89, 92, 94, 97, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 107.
  • —Fort, 9, 53, 91, 95, 96, 98, 107, 108.
  • —Island, 107.
  • —Mt., 53, 94.
• Van Trump, P. V., 48, 60.
• Verendrye Brothers, 54, 101.
• Vidae Cliff, 29.
• Viscanio, Sebastian, 107.

W

• Wa-co-ko, 96.
• Wahn-na, 89.
• Waldseemuller, Marti, 86.
• Waldron, R. R., 108.
• Walla Walla, Fort, 96, 107.
• Wapato Island, 103, 107, 108.
• Wasco, 107.
• Washington, 40, 84, 101, 107.
  • —Mt., 7, 32, 53, 54, 102.
  • —Sloop, 89.
• Washougal River, 107.
• Wedgboro, 101.
• Whidby’s Island, 107.
• White River Indians,61.
• Whitman, 92, 108.
• White Salmon, 108.
• Whulge, 54, 101.
• Wicht, 96.
• Wilkes, 54, 90, 100, 102, 108.
• Willamette, 7, 94, 95, 96, 103, 108.
• William, 106.
  • —Fort, 103, 108, 109.
• Williams Creek, 35.
• Winship, Capt., 91.
• Winthrop, Theodore, 52, 59, 86, 89.
• Witches Cauldron, 13, 21.
• Wizard Island, 13, 21, 27.
• Work, John, 108.
• Wyeth, Nathaniel J., 98, 106, 108.

Y

• Yac-co, 96.
• Yaquina Bay, 109.
• Yelm, 43.
• Yocum, O. C., 3.
• Youmalolam, 106.
• Young’s Bay, 109.
  • —River, 109.
• Young, Sir George, 109.

Transcriber Notes:

Punctuation corrected without note.

page 19: “sidling” changed to “sliding” (When a sliding place
was reached).

page 19: “sideling” changed to “sliding” (very steep, sliding, rocky).

page 36: “acompanying” changed to “accompanying” (and accompanying
necessities).

page 42: “imimmediately” changed to “immediately” (and immediately
informs San Francisco of the contemplated attack,).

page 48: “decended” changed to “descended” (we descended about).

page 59: “Cotemporaneously” changed to “Contemporaneously”
(Contemporaneously Tacoma City,).

page 64: “Klikitat” changed to “Klickitat” (several bands of the
Klickitat).

page 91: “pages” changed to “page” (page 250).

page 99: “Portugese” changed to “Portuguese” (a Portuguese in the
naval service of Spain).

page 101 and 105: “Brittanica” changed to “Britannica”
(Encyclopædia Britannica).

page 102: “embassador” changed to “ambassador” (His Majesty’s
ambassador at Madrid).

page 104: “dicovered” changed to “discovered” (that he had
discovered).

page 111: “Nea” changed to “Neah” (Neah Bay).

page 112: “Waldscemuller” changed to “Waldseemuller”
(Waldseemuller, Marti).