NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY
OF THE
INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN
COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
PERFORMED BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822.
BY
CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S.,
AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON.
WITH
AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING
VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL
HISTORY.
IN TWO VOLUMES,
ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS.
VOLUME 2.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
CONTENTS.
VOLUME 2.
CHAPTER 1.
Survey upon the mermaid.
Purchase another vessel.
New establishment.
Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship
bound through Torres Strait.
Discovery of an addition to the crew.
Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.
Transactions at Percy Island.
Enormous sting-rays.
Pine-trees serviceable for masts.
Joined by a merchant brig.
Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.
Natives at Lizard Island.
Cape Flinders.
Visit the Frederick’s wreck.
Surprised by natives.
Mr. Cunningham’s description of the drawings of the natives in a
cavern on Clack’s Island.
Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.
Accident, and loss of anchors.
Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.
Affair with the natives.
The Dick parts company.
CHAPTER 2.
Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.
Not finding water, visit Prince Regent’s River, and procure it
from the Cascade.
Farther examination of the river.
Amphibious mud-fish.
Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay
in a boat.
Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.
Interview with natives.
The surgeon speared.
Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.
Description of their implements.
Port George the Fourth.
Islands to the westward.
Red Island of Captain Heywood.
Strong tides.
Camden Bay.
Buccaneer’s Archipelago.
Cygnet Bay.
Dangerous situation of the brig.
High and rapid tides.
Cape Leveque.
Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.
Remarkable effect of mirage.
Leave the coast for Mauritius.
Voyage thither.
Arrival at Port Louis.
Refit.
Some account of the island.
CHAPTER 3.
Departure from Port Louis.
Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.
Anchor in King George the Third’s Sound.
Occurrences there.
Visited by the Natives.
Our intercourse with them.
Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.
Vocabulary of their language.
Meteorological and other observations.
Edible plants.
Testaceous productions.
CHAPTER 4.
Leave King George the Third’s Sound, and commence the survey
of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.
Another remarkable effect of mirage.
Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.
Break an anchor.
Examine the coast to the northward.
Cape Leschenault.
Lancelin Island.
Jurien Bay.
Houtman’s Abrolhos.
Moresby’s Flat-topped Range.
Red Point.
Anchor in Dirk Hartog’s Road, at the entrance of Shark’s Bay.
Occurrences there.
Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.
Barrow Island.
Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.
Rowley’s Shoals.
Cape Leveque.
Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer’s
Archipelago.
Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.
Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.
Adele Island.
Return to Port Jackson.
CHAPTER 5.
The Bathurst sails for England.
Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of
Van Diemen’s Land.
King George the Third’s Sound.
Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.
Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.
Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.
APPENDIX A.
SECTION 1.
Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports,
islands, and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit.
SECTION 2.
Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports,
islands, and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York.
SECTION 3.
Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and
coast between Wessel’s Islands and Clarence Strait.
SECTION 4.
Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast
between Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape.
SECTION 5.
Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast
between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin.
SECTION 6.
Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for
King George the Third’s Sound, and hydrographical remarks
relating to Bass Strait.
SECTION 7.
Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of
the coasts of Australia.
SECTION 8.
Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres
Strait.
SECTION 9.
Dip of the magnetic needle.
SECTION 10.
Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the
survey.
APPENDIX B.
Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural
history collected during Captain King’s survey of the
Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia.
APPENDIX C.
Geology.
APPENDIX D.
Language of the Natives.
LIST OF PLATES.
VOLUME 2.
WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A
RAFT.
WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER
BAY.
WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE
NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND: KAOIT OR
HAMMER.
WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE
NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.
MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE
NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA
SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL
SPECIMENS.
SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING
GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER’S
CHISEL.
TABLE C.
Kingia Australis.
Curtis, Id et sculp.
Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.
VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY
OF THE
INTERTROPICAL COASTS
OF
AUSTRALIA.
CHAPTER 1.
Survey upon the mermaid.
Purchase another vessel.
New establishment.
Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship
bound through Torres Strait.
Discovery of an addition to the crew.
Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.
Transactions at Percy Island.
Enormous sting-rays.
Pine-trees serviceable for masts.
Joined by a merchant brig.
Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.
Natives at Lizard Island.
Cape Flinders.
Visit the Frederick’s wreck.
Surprised by natives.
Mr. Cunningham’s description of the drawings of the natives in a
cavern on Clack’s Island.
Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.
Accident, and loss of anchors.
Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.
Affair with the natives.
The Dick parts company.
1820. December 6.
As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the
cutter was laid on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and
surveyed by the master and the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship
Dromedary, which ship was preparing for her return to England
with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping the copper off
the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to the
copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The
iron spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a
considerable repair was recommended by the surveying officers.
Upon my communicating the result of their report to His
Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed with me in thinking
that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it would be
better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the
harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she
was examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary’s carpenter,
who reported so favourably of her, that, by the governor’s
permission, she was purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was
built of teak, of one hundred and seventy tons burden, and had
lately received a very considerable repair at Calcutta; so that,
excepting a few trifling defects and alterations, she was quite
fit for sea. Her name was altered at the suggestion of Governor
Macquarie to that of the Bathurst.
By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts;
and, besides increasing the number of our crew, were much better
off in regard to boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large
enough to carry out and weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any
accident should happen to the vessel; a resource which we did not
possess in the Mermaid.
A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of
Mr. Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary’s midshipman; but
Mr. Hunter the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the
Mermaid during the last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A.
Montgomery, who had lately arrived in charge of a convict
ship.
Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and
men:
Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King.
Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery.
Master’s Mates (Assistant Surveyors):
Frederick Bedwell.
John S. Roe.
Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville.
Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham.
Steward.
Boatswain’s Mate.
Carpenter’s Mate.
Sail Maker.
Cook.
Seamen: 16.
Boys: 5.
Total: 32.
1821. May 26.
After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in
equipping the Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and
the greater part of our repairs were effected by our own people,
we were not completed for sea until the 26th of May, when we
sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth and last voyage to the
north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick (the same
vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she was
bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our
departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres
Strait, which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us
than cause any delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my
part with much satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our
late vessel, had been thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with
copper spikes, and fitted out; and, before we sailed, had been
sent to sea to carry the first establishment to Port Macquarie,
on which service she had been wrecked. She was, however,
afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a very
serviceable vessel in the colony.
Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us,
volunteered his services whilst the vessel was preparing for the
voyage, which I gladly accepted; but when the day of departure
drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the morning that we sailed, his
place was filled by another volunteer, Bundell; who proved not
only to be a more active seaman, but was of much greater service
to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This addition made
our number thirty-three.
May 30.
Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of
another addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the
hold, which had been locked ever since the day before we sailed,
a young girl, not more than fourteen years of age, was found
concealed among the casks, where she had secreted herself in
order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being brought on
deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and
appearance were so filthy, from four days’ close confinement in a
dark hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole
time, that her acquaintances, of which she had many on board,
could scarcely recognise her. Upon being interrogated, she
declared she had, unknown to all on board, concealed herself in
the hold the day before the vessel sailed; and that her swain
knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now
inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man
consented to share his ration with her, she was allowed to
remain; but in a very short time heartily repented of her
imprudence, and would gladly have been re-landed, had it been
possible.
1821. June 4.
Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales
of wind, which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new
ship; and it was very satisfactory to find that she was
weatherly, tight, and dry, three very essential qualities for a
surveying vessel.
June 5.
On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of
Breaksea Spit, and crossed Hervey’s Bay; in the night, when the
brig ought to have been many miles from the shore, we found
ourselves unexpectedly close to some land; but it was not until
the day broke that we knew the full extent of the danger we had
encountered: the land we had seen proved to be the round head of
Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly upon it, we
were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized by
us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by
tacking to the southward.
June 6.
At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by
Captain Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of
a similar character: they were seen from the masthead to the
north-east; and a fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had
a few days of fine weather, which, as dysentery had already made
its appearance amongst us, was most welcome, and tended
materially to check the progress of so alarming a complaint.
June 8.
On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands.
June 10.
But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage
under Percy Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our
situation was between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten
fathoms, near a run of water, which fell from the rocks into the
sea at about a quarter of a mile to the northward of the sandy
beach: from this stream we filled our casks. Water was also found
in many other parts, but all the runs appeared to be of temporary
duration.
June 11.
This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears
to be principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and
affords but little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it
is furnished. In the more barren and rocky parts the pine was
abundant, but not growing to any great size: the Dick’s people
cut down and embarked several logs; on examination they were
thought to be useless; but, from subsequent experience, they
proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for during the
voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which, although
very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and
carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many
masts. These trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and
Northumberland Islands, but do not attain any large size; being
seldom higher than fifty or sixty feet, or of a greater diameter
than from twelve to eighteen inches.
Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the
pheasant cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls,
terns, and oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a
slate-coloured plumage, with a small ruff upon its head.
The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught
were two very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet
across: as it was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means
of weighing it; but the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.*
It is very probable that our bad success may be attributed to the
presence of these fish, for on board the Dick several snappers
were caught with the hook and line.
(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish,
probably of the same species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each
three hundred and thirty-six pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page
100); from which circumstance, as it is not generally known, the
name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour; it is so-called
in the charts of the Endeavour’s voyage, in the Hydrographical
Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks’ copy of
the Endeavour’s journal, and in Dr. Solander’s manuscript
journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert
Brown, Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have
been given subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of
its botanical productions.)
In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain,
and cloudy, thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious
defect was discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being
found rotten for twelve feet below the head; and the
top-gallant-mast was also found to be sprung in the wake of the
cap.
June 12.
So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the
anchorage to shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for
we were not only losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed
situation.
During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the
southward of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port
Jackson four days after us, and was bound on a trading
speculation to the Moluccas and Singapore. In the forenoon I
visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered him my guidance up
the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our defective
masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without
delay; and, having Captain Flinders’ charts, intended to run “DAY
AND NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;” he told me that he had anchored
here with the intention of watering and cutting some pine spars,
but that not finding the latter worth the trouble, he was then
getting underweigh to proceed. When I went away, he accompanied
me to look over my plan of the passage; after which he returned
to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past us on her way
to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored under
Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the
natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European
construction; but from his description, they are similar to what
have been before seen on the coast, and are constructed by the
natives themselves.
June 13.
At eight o’clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the
Dick in weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off.
June 14.
The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland
Islands.
June 15.
And at four o’clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape
Gloucester.
Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the
southward, variable between South-South-East and
South-South-West, now set in, and was unfavourable for our seeing
the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling Green was not seen, but
the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen to fourteen
fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our
having passed this low and dangerous projection.
June 16.
At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at
the distance of five miles.
The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount
Hinchinbrook was quite concealed from our view; but a partial
glimpse of the land enabled me to distinguish Point Hillock, and
afterwards to see Cape Sandwich, Goold Island, and the group of
the Family Isles.
June 17.
In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was
seen lying at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing
guns: seeing this, we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat
up towards her, under the idea of her being in distress; but as
we approached, we observed a boat alongside, and her top-gallant
yards across, which were proofs that she was not in such
immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the risk of
losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her
jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards
the San Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr.
Hemmans informed me that the guns he had fired were intended as
signals to his boat, and that they were not meant for us. He had
been aground, he said, on a reef near the Palm Islands, but had
received no damage: light, however, as he pretended to make of
this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him, and we soon
found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he
quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards
left, until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres
Strait.
I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape
Grafton during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that
purpose steered through the strait that separates the cape from
Fitzroy Island; and anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a
mile from its northern extremity.
It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored
should be the anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for
Captain Cook anchored here on the eve of Trinity Sunday,
fifty-one years before, and named the bay between Capes Grafton
and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day. In passing
between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives
were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach:
one of them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance
was too great to take any notice of him.
In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay,
and found it to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal
channel, through which our boat had some difficulty in passing;
the island is small, and formed of loose fragments of granite,
over which the decomposed vegetable matter had formed a soil,
which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish some luxuriant
grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among these
large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they
were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small
dove, common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native
was seen walking along a sandy beach behind the island, but
proceeded without noticing our boat, which was at that time
passing.
June 18.
The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early
part of the morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at
the back of Cape Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West
(magnetic); it must have been fifty-five or sixty miles off; the
fall of the land towards the extremity of the cape was also seen,
bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West fifty-six miles.
In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of
the Cape, to procure some bearings; after which we strolled
about, and found a temporary stream of water falling into the
sea. In walking past a grove of pandanus trees, which grew near
the water, we disturbed a prodigious quantity of bronze-winged
butterflies, reminding us, in point of number, of the Euploea
hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a variety of
the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian
Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick’s boat going
to the bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place
he found some natives’ huts; some of which were of more
substantial construction than usual, and were thatched with palm
leaves: inside of one he found a fishing rod, and a line, five or
six fathoms long, furnished with a hook made from a shell, like
the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also found a small
basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the remains
of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of
their shell-fish repasts.
A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at
Blomfield’s Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was
not more than nine inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was
seen by Mr. Cunningham feeding upon the grass, but fled the
moment that it saw him approaching.
Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or
suspected of being near us; had there been any number the party
would have been placed in an awkward situation, for upon landing,
they all incautiously, and very imprudently, separated, to amuse
themselves as they were inclined, without regarding the situation
of the boat, which was soon left dry by the ebbing tide; and it
was eight o’clock at night before they succeeded in launching
her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been waiting
four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save
the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short
calm, the wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we
steered on under easy sail towards Cape Tribulation.
June 19.
On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had
previously escaped our notice.
In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a
mile from the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two
miles to the northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and,
as it was low water and the reef uncovered, we walked across it.
It is formed principally of coral, on the surface of which we
found the gray trepang; a small Chama gigas, a cypraea, a pretty
azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few bivalve shells. The
few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and flew away
at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns.
June 20.
After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a
course farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order
to see the reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and
extent of this part of the channel; but the sun was shining in
the direction of our course, and the shadows of the clouds upon
the water were at times so deceptious that, whilst they often
caused appearances of reefs where none existed, they concealed
others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we were
close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it
was necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered
nearly over our last year’s track, but notwithstanding, we now
discovered several new reefs, and informed ourselves of the
extent and shape of others which had escaped our previous
observation.
As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the
south side of Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe,
paddling towards another who was sitting on the rocks watching
our movements; and, as we hauled round the south point of the
bay, two others were observed walking towards the beach; upon
seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but,
after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied
by one from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation,
came forward and communicated with our party. They carried spears
with them, and each of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces:
the appearance of Bundell, who on these occasions always took his
clothes off, perhaps gave them greater confidence. After some
vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our gentlemen, in
order to give them further cause for the surprise which they had
already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his
fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became
distrustful and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their
throwing sticks, walked backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew
altogether towards the hills.
Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward,
are of very different character to the other islands which front
this coast, being high, rising to peaks, and of granitic
formation. Captain Cook, in his description of Lizard Island,
mentions it as being a good place to refresh at, on account of
its supplying both wood and water; but, at the same time we were
there, the latter was not found, although the rain had been
lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is
well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain
Cook’s misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the
reefs, will always be an interesting feature in the history of
the discovery and examination of this coast, and deserves a more
appropriate appellation.
June 21.
Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our
course for Cape Flinders, over our last year’s track. Upon
passing Port Ninian, the sea was observed to break heavily upon
the Barrier Reefs, which in this part approach nearer to the
mainland than at any other. As we doubled Cape Melville, the
wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and carried us
rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape several
natives were observed walking upon the beach.
In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a
considerable diminution in the remains of the Frederick’s wreck.
No vestige was left of her stern or forecastle, both of which
were before so very conspicuous. At half-past five o’clock we
anchored with our companions near the usual place.
June 22.
The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the
wreck to collect the spars and planks that had escaped the
mischievous fires of the natives; and at five o’clock I joined
them with the master of the Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr.
Bedwell to relieve the shore party with some fresh hands at eight
o’clock. When the time arrived, supposing that the relief-party
had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the hill, in
order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in
the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the
wreck, where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master
of the Dick) was at the further end of the beach with his fowling
piece, with two of his boat’s crew picking up shells: when
suddenly they were surprised by hearing a loud shout, and seeing
several spears strike the rocks about them: upon looking round,
Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were advancing upon
him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his gun at
the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the
powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I
heard the shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating
from the Indians, who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his
assistance, and came up in time to prevent them from doing any
mischief; and, by occasionally levelling my gun, kept them at bay
whilst we retreated towards the wreck, from which we were about
half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who had also heard the
noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only assistance he
brought was an addition to our number. Among the four foremost of
the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by our
not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed
his spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as
it was only loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the
distance he was from me; the noise, however, arrested their
pursuit for a moment; and by the time they recovered their
surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great
mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from
throwing his spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at
first was aimed at me, was then thrown at one of the Dick’s men,
and, piercing his hat, which he was carrying at his breast,
fortunately, full of shells, only slightly wounded one of his
fingers. The man, who to all appearance was dangerously wounded,
for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in the air,
drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest
composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were
not intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly
gestures, which we, of course, returned, but still continued to
walk away with our faces turned towards them.
We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of
the Dick’s people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over
to our assistance) and being without any means, or show of
defence, it required much caution and management on our part to
prevent their throwing any more spears; for they were now within
a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to diminish, as
their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk handkerchief
which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in number, of
whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now was
in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our
silk handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all
the grimaces and monkey-like gestures we could think of.
Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly
offered to us by using the most significant signs; which she also
endeavoured to strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part;
but our inclinations were not consonant with the opportunity so
pressingly, but so suspiciously, offered. After our declining
this honour, they occasionally laid their hands upon our clothes
to detain us, but it did not require much force to make them quit
their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it out of
his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with
the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was
happily effected without exciting his anger.
In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our
retreat across the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs
of our people coming to our assistance; when the natives found we
intended to walk round the point, they divided, and gave their
spears to a party that went over the hills, as it were, to cut us
off; but in this intention, if they entertained it, they were
disappointed, for our boat was there, and the crew all embarked,
ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us again. The
idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a moment
mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our
numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison
shoved off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some
muskets to be sent for our protection: by the time, however, that
Mr. Bedwell arrived, we had succeeded in making friends with the
natives; who, upon perceiving that we had now in our turn the
superiority, began to draw away, and appeared to be as anxious to
get rid of us as we had been, half an hour before, to escape from
them; but we accompanied them halfway across the reef, watching
an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick’s man,
whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then
to dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical
to them, although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My
intention, however, was probably suspected, for they avoided our
approaching sufficiently near them to effect my purpose with the
certainty of success, I therefore called our people away to
resume their work at the wreck, and, after leaving orders with
Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if an
opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the
party to breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long
before hostilities again commenced, and several shots were
mischievously fired at the natives by some of the Dick’s and San
Antonio’s people, who, being advanced, had very improperly
endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon which one of the
natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it, when
several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who,
fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his
limping appeared to have been struck in the leg.
After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr.
Bedwell was employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr.
Cunningham traversed the hills in the vicinity, for it was not
safe to trust himself at any distance from our people, since the
natives would not have failed, had they met with an opportunity,
to punish us for our broken faith.
June 23.
The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck,
they reported that the natives had shown themselves on the
opposite side of the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr.
Harrison, to endeavour to make peace, but saw no signs of them,
excepting a smoke on the next island, to which they had probably
retired. On the following day they were again seen, and fired
upon by the boat’s crew of the Dick.
All these events gave me much concern, not only because the
natives may be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers
who may subsequently pass this way, but also because they must
have imbibed a very poor idea of the effect of our arms, when so
many muskets were fired without doing them any mischief: and, but
for the sake of humanity, I could almost have wished that one had
been killed.
The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio
conveyed Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack’s Island. The
reef abounded with shells, of which they brought back a large
collection, but not in any great variety; an indifferent cypraea
was the most common; but there were also some volutae and other
shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in abundance. Mr.
Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the rock, of
which he gave me a description in the following account of the
island:
“The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack’s Island
presented a steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees.
I ascended the steep head, which rose to an elevation of a
hundred and eighty feet above the sea. I found simply the plants
of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia, Br.; Hoya nivea,
Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham manuscript;
Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some alyxiae,
and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets,
and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks,
clothed a great portion of the inaccessible front of the
island.
“The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this
islet led me to examine the south-east part, which was the most
exposed to the weather, and where the disposition of the strata
was of course more plainly developed. The base is a coarse,
granular, siliceous sandstone, in which large pebbles of quartz
and jasper are embedded: this stratum continues for sixteen to
twenty feet above the water: for the next ten feet there is a
horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of so soft
a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of
galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings
were observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they
were executed upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black
schistus) and were delineated by dots of a white argillaceous
earth, which had been worked up into a paste. They represented
tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, turtles, lizards (of
which I saw several small ones among the rocks) trepang,
star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds,
which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The
figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all
over with the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a
gallery round to windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or
recess, overhung by a portion of the schistus, sufficiently large
to shelter twenty natives, whose recent fireplaces appeared on
the projecting area of the cave.
“Many turtles’ heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of
the excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse
mode of life these outcasts of society had, at a period rather
recently, followed. The roof and sides of this snug retreat were
also entirely covered with the uncouth figures I have already
described.
“As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine
arts that we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make
a particular observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered
figures on Chasm Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with
a burnt stick; but this performance, exceeding a hundred and
fifty figures, which must have occupied much time, appears at
least to be one step nearer refinement than those simply executed
with a piece of charred wood. Immediately above this schistose
stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which appeared to
form the upper stratum of the island.” (Cunningham
manuscript.)*
(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr.
White, carved on stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson.
White’s Journal quarto page 141.)
June 25.
Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that
could be useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at
daylight, the 25th, got underweigh with my two companions, and
resumed our course to the northward, over that of last year,
excepting that we steered inside of Pelican Island, and to
leeward of Island 4. We passed several large sting-rays asleep on
the surface of the sea, which our people ineffectually
endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights of
pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of
it, there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds.
The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island
before dark, the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy
bottom, two miles to the eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San
Antonio anchored close to us. During the night we had a fresh
breeze from South-East by East, and, not having any island or
reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged to drop a
second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for
some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without
driving, although she had but forty fathoms of cable out.
June 26.
On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by
West, but, from the compass-box not being quite straight in the
binnacle, we made a North by West 1/2 West course, which was not
discovered until we had nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we
passed close to a rock which I intended to have gone at least a
mile to windward of. It was seen just in time to put the helm
a-lee, or we should have run upon it.
The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile
around us; we were therefore obliged to follow our former
courses, to avoid the risk of running over a strange track in
such unfavourable weather. At sunset we anchored under the lee of
Piper’s Islets.
June 27.
The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay,
at about half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west
side.
Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th.
June 30.
When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of
losing so much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course.
After passing the Bird Isles, thick weather again set in, with
constant rain, and a strong breeze from South-East. Upon reaching
Cairncross Island, under which it was my intention to anchor, the
sails were reduced; and, as we were in the act of letting go the
anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead holding thoughtlessly by
the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the sail was being
hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet, and
fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and,
in the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick
at the same time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was
dropped, without my ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which
was afterwards found to be of a very questionable nature.
The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us,
was lying so close as to prevent our veering more cable than
sixty fathoms, but as we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a
sheer to starboard, while the Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we
remained as we were: to prevent accident, the yards were braced
so that we should cast clear of the Dick if we parted, a
precaution which was most happily taken.
As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was
known on board the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and
a passenger in that ship, hastened on board to assist Mr.
Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe’s hurt, which I found, to my
inexpressible satisfaction, was not so grievous as might have
been expected: his fall was, most providentially, broken twice;
first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks from
the Frederick’s wreck, which had fortunately been placed across
the forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the
edge of the plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep
wound over the right temple. This unfortunate event threatened to
deprive me of his very valuable assistance for some time, a loss
I could but very ill spare, particularly when upon the point of
returning to the examination of so intricate a coast as that part
where we last left off.
At six o’clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to
leeward, and as night approached the appearance of the weather
became very threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury;
this gave me a very unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind
was blowing clear of the reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the
Dick was so close to us that we dared not veer cable, for fear of
getting on board of her, which must have happened if either ship
should break her sheer.
At half-past ten o’clock, during a very heavy squall, the
cable parted, but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig
happily drifted with her head to starboard, and passed clear both
of the Dick and San Antonio; the chain-cabled anchor was then
dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms, which brought her up in
fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared to ride much
easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost anchor;
and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our
situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the
morning if the weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to
go on board her; which, although a service of danger, was, if
possible to be effected, absolutely necessary. The boat was
lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew were unable to pull
it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most fortunate;
for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the brig
drove with her head towards the shore.
1821. July 1.
We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail
during the remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer,
in order that, by laying to with her head off shore, we might
have time to recover the cable, without endangering the security
of the vessel; but, from the weight of the chain at the bow, this
manoeuvre could not be effected; fearing, therefore, to drift any
more to the westward, in which direction we were making rapid
way, I was under the necessity of slipping the chain, by which we
lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but badly
spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig’s head was
placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets
and showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards
appeared, kept a light up for our guidance; but the weather was
so squally and thick, with almost constant rain, that it was not
seen by us. It was half-past twelve o’clock when we made sail to
the North-East by East, deepening from fourteen to sixteen
fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of Cairncross Island bore
South by West, beyond which bearing we did not know how far we
could proceed with safety; we tacked to the South-South-West, and
proceeded in that direction until the island bore South, when we
were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the depth of
this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was
occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very
dark and squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At
day-dawn we were joined by our companions, and, as it was not
possible from the state of the weather to regain the anchors we
had lost, made sail towards Turtle Island, on our way to which we
passed Escape River: both of these places reminded us of former
perils, but the recollection of our providential preservation on
those occasions, as well as on many others during our former
voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for
our safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties
and circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our
minds.
Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously
formed; for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of
the way no land could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed
between Cape York and Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded
the north end of Wednesday Island, and were steering between it
and the North-West Reef.
After passing the rock off Hammond’s Island, we steered West
by South 1/2 South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by
West to pass to the southward of a small shoal, some part of
which was uncovered (the time of tide being nearly low water,
spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50 degrees West
direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of Good’s
Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick
being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the
least we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not
noticed in Captain Flinders’ chart: at high water, or even at
half ebb, it is very dangerous, from its lying in the direct
track; but, by hauling over to the south shore, may be easily
avoided.
At four o’clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by
South across the Gulf of Carpentaria.
July 3.
Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight
of on the 3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between
South and East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some
heavy rain, in which the mercury, having previously fallen to
29.91, rose to 29.95 inches. Lightning from the east and west
accompanied the rain, but the wind was steady, and did not
freshen or lull during the showers.
July 5.
On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at
nine o’clock we passed through the strait that divides them; our
track being half a mile more to the northward than that of last
year, we had more regular soundings.
As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to
examine our former watering-place, but found that the stream had
failed. The parched up appearance of the island showed that the
last had been an unusually dry season; every place that, even in
the month of August, six weeks later, had before yielded large
quantities, as well as the lagoon behind the beach, which, from
the nature of the plants growing in it, was conjectured to be a
never-failing supply, was now dried up.
July 6 to 8.
The next morning the brig’s boat went over to Sims Island with
Mr. Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water,
sufficient, according to Mr. Hemmans’ report, for all our wants.
The next morning (7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the
island, and anchoring her off the sandy beach, landed his people
to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent me a specimen of what had
been collected; but it was so brackish that I gave up all idea of
shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes, into which
all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good was
spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which,
notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to
tempt me to embark any. During the San Antonio’s stay at Sims
Island, our gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to
have suffered as much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. “The
venerable tournefortia (Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however,
appeared as an exception: this tree, which grows on the centre of
the beach, where it is remarkably conspicuous, appeared to have
resisted the dry state of the season; it was in full leaf, and
covered with a profusion of flowers, which attracted a variety of
insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa, and sphex; and
among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis.” (Cunningham
manuscripts.)
During the two last days, our people were employed cutting
wood; no natives had made their appearance, although recent
tracks on the sand showed they were not far off; but on the
evening of the 7th, the surgeon, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of
the Dick, landed in that vessel’s gig, and, whilst amusing
themselves among the trees, and the boat’s crew incautiously
wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and would
have carried off all the boat’s furniture, and everything in her,
had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors
with a musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new
boat-cloak, and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly
succeeded in carrying off an oar, but upon being fired at,
dropped his booty and scampered off. This trifling loss was
deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they were well aware
how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how
mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves:
they were also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon
their guard, and it was fortunate for them that nothing more
serious occurred.
July 8.
At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims
Island, and at eleven o’clock we left the bay, and passed to the
eastward of New Year’s Island: the Dick and ourselves then
steered to the westward along the coast, while the San Antonio
steered a north-west course, and parted company.
July 9.
The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van
Diemen, and having sent our letters on board the Dick for
conveyance to England, we parted company by an interchange of
three cheers; and it was not without a considerable degree of
regret that we took this leave of our friends; for it is but due
to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great assistance
from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor to
replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one
left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose.
By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty,
and the Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and
communicating to them a brief account of our voyage up the east
coast, acquainted them of my intention of employing the
fine-weather months of July and August upon the north-west coast,
and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our anchors and cable,
previous to our examination of the west coast.
CHAPTER 2.
Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.
Not finding water, visit Prince Regent’s River, and procure it
from the Cascade.
Farther examination of the river.
Amphibious mud-fish.
Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay
in a boat.
Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.
Interview with natives.
The surgeon speared.
Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.
Description of their implements.
Port George the Fourth.
Islands to the westward.
Red Island of Captain Heywood.
Strong tides.
Camden Bay.
Buccaneer’s Archipelago.
Cygnet Bay.
Dangerous situation of the brig.
High and rapid tides.
Cape Leveque.
Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.
Remarkable effect of mirage.
Leave the coast for Mauritius.
Voyage thither.
Arrival at Port Louis.
Refit.
Some account of the island.
1821. July 9.
Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape
Londonderry; on which, with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded
with rapidity.
July 12.
On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham
Moore’s Islands were seen, and in the afternoon we passed
Troughton Island; at sunset, Point Hillock bore South thirteen
miles, whence we steered to the West-North-West and North-West,
and rounded the north end of the long reef, to the westward of
Cape Bougainville.
July 13.
The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing
South by West; here we were detained for two days by light
baffling winds and calms.
July 14.
During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the
westward, and we stood off and on to the north of Cassini
Island.
July 15.
At half-past one o’clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three
fathoms, we shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel’s head
was put to the southward, but the breeze was so very light, that
she had hardly steerage way: by the light of the moon a line of
breakers was seen two miles off, under our lee: we had now
shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but its great
irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last
minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only
one we had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the
boat was lowered, and sent to sound between the vessel and the
breakers. Finding we made no progress off the reef by standing to
the southward, we tacked; and, a light breeze springing up from
the westward, we drew off the bank on a north-west course, and in
the space of a mile and a half deepened the water gradually to
thirty fathoms.
July 16.
The next morning, at a quarter past eight o’clock, the
breakers were again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44
seconds West of Troughton Island. The wind was too light to allow
of our approaching, we therefore tacked off to the westward, and
soon lost sight of them; at noon we were in latitude 13 degrees
26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the masthead, bearing
south-east, distant eight or nine miles.
During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood
first to the westward, and afterwards to the south-east.
July 17.
At seven o’clock the next morning no land was in sight, but
breakers were seen extending from South by West to South-West by
South, about five miles off; and two miles beyond them was
another line of breakers, bearing from South-South-West to
South-West by West. As we steered obliquely towards them, they
were noticed to extend still farther to the eastward, but
apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood on,
shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a
mile of an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a
rocky bottom. The wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of
being becalmed, I was anxious to get an offing. By our
observations, we found the breakers this morning were connected
with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin’s
Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague
and incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with
respect to the position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of
their reefs.
At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a
freshening breeze from South-East enabled us to make progress to
the southward. At two o’clock some of the Montalivet Islands were
seen; and before three o’clock, an island was seen bearing South,
which proved, as we stood towards it, to be the northernmost of a
group lying off the north-west end of Bigge’s Island; they were
seen last year from Cape Pond, and also from the summit of the
hills over Careening Bay.
July 19 to 21.
At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was
about six leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees
East, but a continuation of calms and light winds detained us in
sight of them until the 21st.
This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to
be those called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one
quarter to a mile and a half in extent, and are rocky and
flat-topped; the shores are composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They
are fronted on the west side by a rocky reef extending in a
North-North-East and South-South-West direction.
During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had
seen many fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and
preserved; its length was four feet four inches; the head very
small; it had neither fins nor gills, and respired like
land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it did not appear
to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long; and
many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by
the towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be
perfectly invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former
were a species of phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of
Leach.*
(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander
manuscripts. Lin. Gmel. tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr.
Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.)
At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West
of Captain Baudin’s Colbert Island; at the back of which were
seen some patches of the Coronation Islands. The night was passed
at anchor off the northernmost Coronation Island.
July 23.
And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile
from the sandy beach of Careening Bay.
As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and
recognised the site of our last year’s encampment, which had
suffered no alteration, except what had been occasioned by a
rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the stem of which had served as
one of the props of our mess-tent, and to which we had nailed a
sheet of copper with an inscription, was considerably grown; and
the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the nails had
pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper
off.
The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid’s name had
been carved in deep indented characters remained without any
alteration, and seemed likely to bear the marks of our visit
longer than any other memento we had left.
The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so
seasonably afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for
convenience for our purposes, can only be estimated by those who
have experienced them; and it is only to strangers to such
feelings that it will appear ridiculous to say, that even the
nail to which our thermometer had been suspended, was the subject
of pleasurable recognition.
We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our
mortification, it was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of
its having contained any for some time. From the more luxuriant
and verdant appearance of the trees and grass than the country
hereabout assumed last year, when the water was abundant, we had
felt assured of finding it and therefore our disappointment was
the greater.
July 24.
After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the
eastward of Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a
gully that Mr. Cunningham informed me had last year produced a
considerable stream, we gave up all hopes of success here, and
directed our attention to the cascade of Prince Regent’s River;
which we entered the next afternoon, with the wind and tide in
our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage at the bottom of
St. George’s Basin, a mile and a half to the northward of the
islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven
fathoms muddy sand.
July 26.
The following morning at half-past four o’clock Mr. Montgomery
accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached
it at nine o’clock and found the water, to our inexpressible
satisfaction, falling abundantly.
While the boat’s crew rested and filled their baricas, I
ascended the rocks over which the water was falling and was
surprised to find its height had been so underrated when we
passed by it last year: it was then thought to be about forty
feet, but I now found it could not be less than one hundred and
fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is disposed
in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of
which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a
continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty
in climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great
we assisted our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the
luxuriant moss that grew abundantly about the water-courses. On
reaching the summit, I found that the fall was supplied from a
stream winding through rugged chasms and thickly-matted clusters
of plants and trees, among which the pandanus bore a conspicuous
appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the place. While
admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined me; we
did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a
hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused
among rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source.
After collecting for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by
sickness, a few specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared
the most novel, we commenced our descent, and reached the bottom
in safety; by which time the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we
set off immediately on our return with a view of arriving on
board by low-water, in order that no time might be lost in
sending the boats up with our empty water-casks.
During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the
effects of his fall, had obtained the sun’s meridional altitude
upon the islet at the entrance of the river, which gave 15
degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds for its latitude, differing from
the plan of last year by only fifteen seconds.
July 27.
The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but
as the ebb-tide ran until after four o’clock it was late at night
before they reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by
running upon the sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are
very numerous and form a narrow winding channel of not more than
twelve feet deep; these banks are dry at low-water, and are
composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At midnight, as soon as the
launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not take more than half
an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the vessel with
orders to return the following night for another load, and in the
meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of
which we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade.
July 28.
We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next
morning, on account of the shoalness of the channel.
For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its
character or course: its windings were only just sufficient to
intercept a clear view; for so direct was its course, that from
this part the high round hill near the entrance was seen midway
between the hills that form the banks of the river.
Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into
a rapid amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the
stream was running at the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel
was instantly dropped, which had the effect of reversing the
boat’s head. After this the grapnel was weighed, and by very
great exertions we extricated ourselves from the rapid, and then
landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east bank, where
the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we
penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank
near the rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide
falling over a barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water
confines the fresh water above this place; a few minutes
afterwards it was high-water, and the tide suddenly ceased to
run; when the water became quite smooth and motionless.
A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what
occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the
rapid, by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of
extending our knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore
re-embarked, and, passing the rapid, pulled up the river against
the tide for a mile farther, where it was suddenly terminated by
a beautiful fresh-water rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream
was so great a contrast to the thick, muddied water we had so
long been pulling through that it was a most gratifying sight,
and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and exertions. The fresh
water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle fall over
rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them, we
had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain
of returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the
stream rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at
this second fall appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards
in breadth: its farther course was lost sight of by a sharp turn,
first to the North-East, and then to the South-East, between high
and rocky hills.
Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other
plants were growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but
unhappily the sterile and rocky appearance of the country was
some alloy to the satisfaction we felt at the first sight of the
fresh water; as we did not, however, expect to find a good
country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and we set off on
our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our labours:
we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea.
The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first
falls, but there was no appearance of that violence which we
witnessed in the morning; probably because the stream had not
reached its strength.
An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards
of the boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was
uselessly fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the
water is very deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble
a branch of a tree floating with the tide; the snout, the eye,
and some of the ridges of the back and tail being the only parts
that are seen. The animal that we fired at was noticed for some
time, but considered to be only a dead branch, although we were
looking out for alligators, and approached within six yards of it
before we found out our mistake: the length of this animal was
from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have ever
seen one more than twenty feet long.
We reached the cascade by four o’clock and remained there
until our boats arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at
midnight; as soon as the casks were filled, we set off on our
return, but did not reach the brig until eight o’clock in the
morning.
July 29.
The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this
place were so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of
completing it now. We had obtained, by the two trips, enough to
last until the end of October, which, with the chance of finding
more upon other parts of the coast, was sufficient for our
intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore hoisted in,
and preparations made to leave the anchorage.
The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with
mullet; and porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a
distance of fifty miles from the sea. A curious species of
mud-fish (chironectes sp. Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious
nature, and something similar to what we have frequently before
seen; these were, however, much larger, being about nine inches
long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that were
exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish,
sporting about, and running at each other with open mouths; but
as we approached, they so instantaneously buried themselves in
the soft mud that their disappearance seemed the effect of magic:
upon our retiring and attentively watching the spot, these
curious animals would re-appear as suddenly as they had before
vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden were their motions
that they generally escaped; two or three only were procured,
which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state
to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral
and ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required,
they make a hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud,
the pectoral fins are used like legs, upon which they move very
quickly; but nothing can exceed the instantaneous movement by
which they disappear. Those that were shot were taken on board,
but on account of the extreme heat of the weather they had become
so putrefied as to be totally unfit for preservation.
July 30.
The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in
the narrow part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a
remarkable division in its centre, through which the high-tide
flows, and gives it the appearance of being two islands. It was
on this occasion that we explored Halfway Bay, where we were
fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in which we also
discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was found
to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that
forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called
after the late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has
also been given to a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a
prominent rank in the botany of this country. The strait, in
which the tide was running at the rate of six or seven knots, was
not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide; but in one part
it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of rocks
that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally
have communicated with the opposite shore.
We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of
Greville Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and
walked a few hundred yards round the point, to examine the course
of the strait; but the way was so rugged, and we had so little
time to spare, that we soon re-embarked and returned into Halfway
Bay. The geological character of the island is a red-coloured,
coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone, disposed in horizontal
strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised quartz. The
surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil, producing
a variety of shrubs and plants.
After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays
opposite to Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with
mangroves that no landing could be effected in any part. In both
bays there is anchorage between the heads; but all the inner part
is very shoal, and perhaps at low water there is not more than
nine feet water within the heads. In the mid-stream of the river
the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of shells over which,
on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs with great
strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms numerous
eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable.
During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former
watering-place, at the back of St. Andrew’s Island, and on his
return landed upon the sandy beach of a bay on the south-west
side of the basin, but was unsuccessful in his search for water
at both places.
The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the
fires that had been burning for the last three days in several
places upon the low land, and on the sides of the hills to the
westward of Mount Trafalgar; before night they had all joined,
and, spreading over the tops of the hills for a space of three
miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent effect.
1821. August 1.
At half past five o’clock the next morning we were under sail
but, the breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage
under Greville Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned
against us. It was purposed to remain only during the flood; but,
on examination, the place was found to be so well adapted for the
purpose of procuring some lunar distances with the sun, to
correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay, that we
determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant
on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed
to complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in
taking observations upon a convenient station on the north point
of the bay within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with
shrubs, and separated from the easternmost point of Greville
Island by a very shoal and rocky channel.
During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way
to it we landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles,
which was found to be more extensive than had been suspected, and
to embrace the group of small rocks, which at high-water only
just show their summits above the water; at high-tide there is at
least fifteen feet water over it, but being low-water when we
landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found several varieties of
coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.; Caryophylla
fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only shell
that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam.
(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its
extremity, as also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we
landed upon a small verdant-looking grassy mound, the
northernmost islet of the group; but we found the verdure of its
appearance was caused only by the abundance of the spinifex,
through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in travelling.
After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked and
pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the
strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then
flowing was running in a contrary direction to what was expected
from the hypothesis we had formed, we began to suspect some other
communication with the sea, and in this we were not deceived; for
a narrow but a very deep strait opened suddenly to our view, at
the bottom of the Water, through which some of the islands in the
offing were recognised. In pulling through we had kept close to
the south shore, that we might not miss the communication with
Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we passed by
without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of
the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea
was not seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and
would also have escaped our observation had not the channel been
so direct that the sea horizon was exposed to our view. At the
bottom of this arm are two deep bays which were partially but
sufficiently examined. In most parts of Munster Water there is
good anchorage amongst several small rocky islands, on one of
which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw nothing to repay
us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the surface was
composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when trod
upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular
face of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the
acacias and other trees that were firmly rooted in the
interstices of the less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from
being precipitated with them. On our return we passed through the
channel on the west side of the Midway Isles which we found to be
very deep and the stream very strong.
August 4.
The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates
Greville Island, and found that it communicated with Munster
Water at a part where we had yesterday concluded it likely to
exist, and had in consequence steered towards it; but as we
proceeded the probability became less and less, and we gave up
the search when we were within three hundred yards of being
actually in it.
We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the
strait to sea; and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which
projects off the west head of the strait, found that we were at
the entrance of the bight, which was last year named Hanover Bay:
after taking a set of bearings, we re-embarked and proceeded to
the bottom of the bay which terminated in a shoal basin.
On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which
bore the appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream;
being low-water, there was not in many parts sufficient depth to
float the boat; but after pulling up for half a mile, a muddy
channel was found, which, at the end of another half mile, was
terminated by a bed of rocks over which the tide flows at
high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks which
are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to
extend to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of
the boat was prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell
and two of the boat’s crew were despatched to examine a place
farther on, where, from the green appearance of the trees, it was
thought not unlikely that there might be a fresh stream. In this
they were not disappointed, for after much delay and trouble,
from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned with
two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of
considerable size.
In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly
over the mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it
and did not afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small
kangaroos were seen skipping about the rocks, but they were very
shy, and fled the moment they saw us.
Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an
opportunity of increasing our stock of water, as well as
presenting a sandy beach on which we could haul the seine, it was
determined that we should visit it as soon as the brig could be
moved out of Prince Regent’s River.
On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed
in the morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner
side of the island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster
Water, but were unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh
water.
August 6.
At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of
wind from the southward, to leave Prince Regent’s River; but
notwithstanding the vessel was under all sail she was very nearly
thrown upon Lammas Island by the tide, which was setting with
great strength through the shoal passage between it and Sight
Point: as we passed without it we were not more than five yards
from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig
was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide
and whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the
body of the largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty
on which side of it the tide would drift us: when we were about
three hundred yards from the island the direction of the stream
changed and carried us round its south-east side, at about two
hundred yards from the shore, but close to the low rocks off its
east end, on which we landed two days since. We were under great
anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which there
could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our
fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly
round it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only
five minutes, but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction
of the Rothsay and Munster Waters with the main stream. The
vessel was at times unmanageable from the violent whirlpools
through which we passed, and was more than once whirled
completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of a
similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as
quickly braced round.
Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried
us out of the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost
of the outer isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard
calling to us, and Bundell returned their shout, but it was some
time before we could discern them on account of the very rugged
nature of the island: at last three Indians were observed
standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but, as the
tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of
hearing.
Soon after one o’clock the brig was anchored at about half a
mile off the sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half
flood) muddy bottom. The boats were immediately hoisted out and
sent up the river, but the tide was ebbing and the difficulty of
filling the casks so great that, after great labour, we only
procured a puncheon of water. The launch was moored without the
rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed the baricas
to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get
within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had
to carry the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that
distance, which made the work laborious and slow; still however
it was much less distressing than the fatigue of watering from
the cascade in Prince Regent’s River. At night a successful haul
of the seine supplied our people with abundance of fish, among
which were mullets weighing from three to five pounds; cavallos,
whitings, silver fish, breams, and two species of guard-fish.
August 7.
While our people were employed the next morning in washing the
decks, they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight
o’clock they were again heard and at ten o’clock they were close
by; shortly afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen
standing on the rocks waving their arms. Being curious to
communicate with the inhabitants of this part of the coast, since
we had not seen any between this and Vansittart Bay, a party
consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell, Mr. Baskerville, and
myself, went on shore to the place where the natives were seated
waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on these
occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the
boat, and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship,
which the natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our
approach. On landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men
were standing, when we found that the woman had walked away: upon
our approach they retired a few paces and evidently eyed us in a
distrustful manner; but, as they had dropped their spears, and
repeated the sign of peace that we had made to them, we did not
hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the boat’s crew
to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined them
they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our
presenting them with some of the fish that we had caught the
preceding evening they dropped their spears and immediately
returned us something in exchange; one gave a belt, made of
opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the tallest of the two,
gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short stick about
eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of
presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us,
and, to strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped
knife, after showing him its use, the possession of which
appeared to give him great pleasure.
By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the
latter gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol
concealed under his coat and carried a fish which he held out for
them to take; but, as they would not approach us nearer than two
or three yards, he threw it towards them, when the shortest
native picked it up. Upon this accession to our numbers they
began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up their
spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary
movement we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I
then, with a view to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the
knife, which he put into my hands without showing the least
reluctance, upon which he was again instructed how to open and
shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying, only served to
increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet, which he
instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very
suspicious manner.
We were at this time about three or four yards from the
natives, who were talking to each other in a most animated way,
and evidently intent upon some object; and, as it appeared
probable that, if we remained any longer, a rupture would ensue,
it was proposed that our party should retire to the boat, under
the idea that they would follow us down; no sooner, however, had
we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs to descend
the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous
manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke
and fell harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown
by the tallest man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the
natives then, without waiting to throw their second spears, made
off, closely pursued by Bundell, who had armed himself with the
broken spear; but they were out of sight in a moment, and, by the
time that the muskets were brought to our assistance, were
doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however, commenced, but
our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky nature
of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the
shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the
boat, to which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried,
complaining of great weakness from loss of blood.
WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.
1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey,
Esquire, F.R.S.
2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by
F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.
3. Spear armed with the Stone head.
4. Throwing-stick.
5. Hatchet.
Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.
Upon examining Mr. Montgomery’s wound, which unfortunately was
in such a part of his body that he could not himself inspect it,
it appeared that the spear had penetrated about three inches;
and, from the quantity of extravasated blood, great fears were
entertained that he had received a very serious internal injury.
The wound, from which he was suffering very great pain, was
dressed according to his instructions, but it was several days
before he considered himself out of danger.
August 8.
The next morning at eleven o’clock a native was seen on a
float, or catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait,
and another man, a woman, and a child, were observed on the
rocks, who, in less than a quarter of an hour, came down to the
spot where we met them yesterday, and began to wave and call to
us. An opportunity now offered of punishing these wretches for
their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them in their
present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some mischief.
Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran,
which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst
another boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter
arrived near the shore, they were sitting on the rock and
inviting us to land; but it was necessary to convince them that
we were not so defenceless as they imagined, and, as soon as we
were sufficiently near, several muskets were fired over their
heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the other made
off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder, and
was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made
several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared
above the rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket
was fired to prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up,
and, leaping upon the rock with a violent effort, was
instantaneously out of sight.
As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where
the natives had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing
by the place. Upon the beach we found two catamarans, or floats,
on each of which a large bundle of spears was tied with ligatures
of bark; and on searching about the grass we soon found and
secured all their riches, consisting of water-baskets, tomahawks,
spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks, fishing-lines, and
thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large size, and
very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone
curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a
throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching
the catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were
towed round by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives,
whilst a party walked over land to examine the place. On the way
several spears were discovered placed ready for use on their
retreat to the beach, where, from the quantity collected, they
evidently intended to make a stand; supposing no doubt from our
appearance yesterday that we were defenceless, and would
therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock, behind which
the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and Bundell,
who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder. We
traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border
of a mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the
marks of their feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then
gave up the pursuit, and went on board.
Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron
hoop was found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had
used for the purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have
been left by us last year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly
attracted our attention was a small bundle of bark, tied up with
more than usual care; upon opening it we found it contained
several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously made of
stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated
by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most
surprising way; the serratures were evidently made by a sharp
stroke with some instrument, but it was effected without leaving
the least mark of the blow: the stone was covered with red
pigment, and appeared to be a flinty slate. These spear-heads
were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in which they were
preserved plainly showed their value, for each was separated by
strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering of
fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very
fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one
of these truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made
of the same stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a
few blows serve to chop off the branch of a tree.
The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed
together to a frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are
bouyant enough to carry two natives, besides their spears and
baskets. A representation of this mode of conveyance is also
given in the title page of this
volume
These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had
before seen; the tallest must have been at least six feet two
inches high; their bodies were scarred all over; their teeth
perfect, and they were quite naked. The shorter native had his
hair collected into a knob at the top of his head, which gave him
a ferocious appearance. The punishment they so justly received
will make them respect in future the formidable nature of our
arms.
At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen
fish, principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the
beach to prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not
show themselves.
August 9.
On the following day we again heard them shouting and
hallooing but it was some time before we could observe their
situation; at last five were discovered by the aid of a
telescope, seated on the summit of a hill behind the beach,
occupied in making spears; at a little distance were two others,
one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had escaped
unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a
tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear.
During the time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed
to us; no notice was however taken of their cries, although the
temptation was very great of firing a shot over their heads to
show them that they were still within our reach. As soon as they
had finished their work and had made about a dozen spears, they
all got up and walked away.
After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not
unlikely that they would attack our people at the watering-place;
the party were therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed,
but the natives did not make their appearance, and the boats
returned at sunset without having been disturbed. The tide was so
trifling and the difficulty of loading the boat so great that
only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as we were not
likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the
spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and
made preparations to leave the bay.
August 10.
On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the
morning, I sent for another turn of water but only obtained
enough for one day’s issue; for the tide did not rise more than
four feet. In the meantime I visited the extreme point on the
west side of the bay, and examined in my way some openings in the
land that, from their appearance, promised to afford water: as it
was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked up by
banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher,
and I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I
was again stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places
must afford abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and
perhaps are seldom without; and, as this was a year of unusual
drought, it is not improbable that the river in which we watered
generally afforded a very considerable stream; if so, from its
proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great importance, and
is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be procured
at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish
at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being
protected from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front
the bay. There is also abundance of wood that may be cut close to
the waterside.
Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward
as the meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in
putting into Hanover Bay, and remaining there until the wind
should veer round: by which they would avoid the necessity of
beating to windward, over such dangerous ground as extends
between this part to Timor; and, by being to the southward, out
of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end of
February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east
winds prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their
passage to the westward.
The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18
minutes 21 seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our
observatory at Careening Bay, which makes its longitude 124
degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of Greenwich.
August 11.
The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at
the distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After
passing round the western head, we entered a deep opening, and,
running into it for some distance between a rocky shore on either
side, came into an extensive basin, in the centre of which was a
high island which we saw at a distance last year, and then called
the Lump, from its shape. As a set of bearings from this island
was desirable, the vessel was anchored abreast of it at about a
mile and a half from the shore; having landed upon it in time to
observe the sun’s meridional altitude in the artificial horizon,
we ascended its summit and obtained the desired bearings; we also
discovered Freycinet’s Island on the horizon, bearing North 13
degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by
its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies
in the centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels
are formed; the westernmost has several patches of rocks in it,
but the eastern one, which we used, appeared to be clear and free
from danger, excepting a rocky shelf projecting from the eastern
shore for not more than three quarters of a mile. In the
afternoon we examined the former, and from a summit at the
south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained another set
of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a deep
passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the
eastern channel.
Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to
examine an opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported
to be a strait, trending round to the South-West for six miles,
beyond which his view was intercepted by the next projecting
point. The strait, which he called after Captain R.H. Rogers,
R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry reefs of great
extent.
August 12.
On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this
place, which, on account of the day, was honoured with the name
of our most gracious king, Port George the Fourth.
August 13.
The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having
to beat against the wind, made no further progress than an
anchorage off Point Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in
the Mermaid; it is the north end of the land that forms the west
side of Port George the Fourth, which was afterwards called
Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there appeared to
be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point
Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in
the meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the
point and the islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr.
Roe’s report, however, of the appearance of the inner part among
the islands was not so favourable, for it is studded over with
numerous extensive reefs, which, being low water, were exposed to
view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad separation between two
islands to the south-west, but more to the westward the islands
were so numerous that very little information as to their shape
or number could be obtained.
August 14.
At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a
moderate land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West,
and passed round the islands. Very far to the northward on the
sea horizon we saw a sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers;
and more to the westward was an island, which was at first
supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of Captain Baudin, but
which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain Heywood’s Red
Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently quite
barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading
between some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it
appeared to be free from danger, we purposed to steer through.
The brig entered it at noon, when it was high-water, and as she
advanced and reached the narrow part, the ebb-tide was setting so
strong against us that, although we were sailing five knots by
the log, we were losing ground; we continued however to persevere
for three hours and a half, and had run nearly twenty miles by
the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died away, and
not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage,
but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so
that we lost all the progress that we had gained since noon.
August 15.
The next morning, after taking angles from the sun’s rising
amplitude, we got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make
another attempt to pass through it. The view that was obtained
yesterday evening from the masthead before we put about to look
for anchorage, induced us to suppose that many reefs existed in
the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for one of very
extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end of
the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end
of that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which
either embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else
the channels are narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our
favour, carried us quickly forward: as we passed on we heard the
voices of natives and soon afterwards perceived two standing on a
hill; our course was, however, so rapid that we were soon out of
sight of them; their fires were seen yesterday but then they did
not make their appearance.
The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait,
meeting the ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the
South-East, formed many strong ripplings, which to a stranger
would have been a frightful vortex to have entered, and although
we had lately been accustomed to such appearances, yet we did not
encounter them without some fear. After clearing them we sounded
on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather was so thick and
hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored in
seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait.
In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was
still too thick for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all
the evening, which was profitably spent in bringing up the chart;
a little before sunset the weather cleared and afforded a good
view of the land, which to the South-East is composed principally
of islands, but so numerous that the mainland could not be
distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards called Point Hall,
round which the land trended to the southward, bore from the
anchorage South 19 degrees East.
The direction of the tides, the flood setting
South-South-East, and the ebb North-North-West and North-West,
induced me to suppose that the opening to the eastward of the bay
we were at anchor in, which was called Camden, in compliment to
the noble Marquess, was not only connected with Rogers Strait,
but was also the outlet of another considerable river or bay.
At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than
a mile and a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell
thirty-seven feet, which is the greatest rise and fall we had yet
found; it is probable, from the intricate nature of the coast,
that these high tides are common to all this neighbourhood.
August 16.
At five o’clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night
the wind sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but
misty weather immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded
our view. The breeze was too fresh for us to continue at anchor,
we therefore got underweigh, and made sail by the wind; but upon
standing across the channel and finding that the flood-tide set
to the South-West, we bore away, and, passing round Point Hall,
steered to the southward towards some low islands that were just
visible through the haze, and which, being disposed in a group,
were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon of the
Bathurst.
At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44
minutes 16 seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as
South 30 degrees West, but from the masthead at one o’clock it
was seen as far as South 50 degrees West, and a long low island,
the westernmost of Montgomery Isles, bore from South-West by West
to South-West by South. The group besides this contained six
other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned with bushes:
as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky
ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would
not be more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between
Point Hall and these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as
the group appeared to be connected by reefs, we steered off to
pass round them; the wind, however, changing to the westward,
detained us all the evening near them.
The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be
much broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had
only one anchor to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr.
Montgomery’s request, in compliment to the late Captain Sir
George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N. During the greater part of
the night the wind was light, and by the bearings of a fire on
the land we were making but little drift.
August 17.
At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12
degrees 22 minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which
very extensive reefs were seen extending between the bearings of
South and South-West by West. They were called Cockells Isles. We
passed round their north end over a bottom of hard sand, mixed
with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which we found an
irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than
twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun
appeared above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped
in mist. At eight o’clock we ventured to steer more southerly,
but continued to sound over a rocky bottom until ten o’clock,
when the islands bore South-East; we then steered South-West
through a muddy channel with the flood tide in our favour,
towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off, became
visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also
seen bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15
degrees 50 minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the
east head of which was formed by several islands. The land at the
back appeared to be of tolerable height but its outline was so
level, that it did not present any prominent feature sufficiently
defined to take a bearing of more than once; its coast appeared
to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be very much
intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable
openings.
The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our
ascertaining the particular feature of the country; it seemed to
be rocky and very bare of vegetation; but they were some parts,
particularly on one of the islands to the eastward at the
entrance of Collier’s Bay, where a few good-sized trees were
growing over a sandy beach.
The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being
light, we were making no progress. As sunset approached, we began
to look for anchorage; but the suspicious nature of the bottom
and the great depth of the water prevented our being successful
until some time after dark; the anchor was at last dropped in
twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with the ebb-tide
setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots.
Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs
were playing about us all day, and during the morning two or
three were seen near the vessel lashing the water with their
enormous fins and tails, and leaping at intervals out of the sea,
which foamed around them for a considerable distance.
After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the
western quarter but during the night there was a heavy swell. The
flood-tide, which commenced at nine o’clock, when the depth was
twenty-eight fathoms, gradually ran stronger until midnight, when
its rate was two miles per hour: high-water took place at 3 hours
15 minutes a.m., or at twelve minutes before the moon passed her
meridian; the rise being thirty-six feet.
August 18.
We were underweigh before six o’clock the next morning, and
after steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward
(on which course the tide being against us we were making no
progress) bore up with the intention of hauling round the point
to leeward for anchorage, whence we might examine the place by
the means of our boats, and wait for more favourable weather; but
upon reaching within half a mile of the point we found that a
shoal communication extended across to a string of islands
projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction:
in mid channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the
water it is more than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the
whole distance across the strait; but this appearance, from the
experience we afterwards had of the navigation of this part,
might have been produced by tide ripplings, occasioned by the
rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in its
passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and
dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in
the event of accident.
Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of
steering round the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine
o’clock were two miles North-East by East from the small island
18, when our latitude by observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56
seconds; the depth being thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of
coral mixed with sand, mud, and shells.
To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of
islands was another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we
hauled to the wind for the night, off the northernmost island
which afterwards proved to be the Caffarelli Island of Captain
Baudin. Between these two ranges of islands we only obtained one
cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three fathoms on a coral
bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this part of the
coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef (Brue
Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the
night was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious,
fearing lest there might be others in its neighbourhood.
August 19.
At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and
shortly afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef;
it appeared to be partly dry but of small extent.
We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile
and a half from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards
endeavoured to steer between the range of islands, of which
Caffarelli is the northernmost, and a group of rocky isles,
marked 33; but finding we could not succeed from the scanty
direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh breeze from
South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and then
steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the
principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round
its south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the
direction of our course, we tacked off to pass round the west
extremity of the group, towards two small low islands, 50 and 51,
that were seen in the distance bearing about South 84 degrees
West. The tide, having been before in our favour, was now against
us, and, setting with great strength, drove us near the rocks
that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the wind
was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the
dangerous situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it
fell to a light air and we were carried by the tide rapidly
towards the low rocky extremity of the islets, which we were
nearly thrown upon, when a breeze suddenly sprung up again from
the South-East and enabled us to clear this impending danger. We
were now drifting to the South by East through a wide channel,
sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom. Had
the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could
have run through, and taken our chance of finding either
anchorage or an open sea; and although this would certainly have
been hazarding a great risk, yet it was of very little
consequence in what part of the archipelago we spent the night,
as the spots which we might consider to be the most dangerous
might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we were
perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await
patiently its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in.
By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a
quarter past four o’clock; every minute therefore after that time
was passed by us most anxiously. Every now and then we were in
the midst of the most violent ripplings and whirlpools, which
sometimes whirled the vessel round and round, to the danger of
our masts. Five o’clock at last arrived and the tide-eddies
ceased, but the stream continued to run until a quarter of an
hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out slowly.
To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze
sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been
drifted back through the deepest part of the channel, over the
same ground that the flood had carried us in: we however made
sail and beat out, and before dark had made considerable
progress; we then lost sight of the land until eleven o’clock
when some was seen to the eastward: at half-past eleven we had a
dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the tide had begun to
flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then ascertained
to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly heard
to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and
more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our
position was very much more favourable than we had conjectured;
for, by bearings of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I
found we were at least two or three miles from the shore of the
latter.
August 20.
A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears
by the sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and
in a moment found ourselves comparatively out of danger.
At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of
Caffarelli Island; whence we steered to the South-West by West
and South-South-West. Brue Reef was seen as we passed by it. At
noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14 minutes 1 second, Cape
Leveque bearing South.
From noon until one o’clock we were steering South-South-West,
but made no progress, on account of an adverse tide which
occasionally formed such strong eddies and ripplings that we were
several times obliged to steer off to get without their
influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and presents a sandy
beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for a mile,
on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was
clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast
presented a very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the
triste and arid character of the North-West Cape.
On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found
Cape Leveque to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on
his buccaneering voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: “We fell
in with the land of New Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran
in close by it, and finding no convenient anchoring, because it
lies open to the North-West, we ran along shore to the eastward,
steering North-East by East, for so the land lies. We steered
thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of land, from
whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve
leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to
the eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with
abundance of islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or
to hale ashore. About a league to the eastward of that point we
anchored in twenty-nine fathom, good hard sand and clean ground.”
He then proceeds to say: “This part of it (the coast) that we saw
is all low, even land, with sandy banks against the sea, only the
points are rocky, and so are some of the islands in the
bay.”*
(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.)
From this description I have little hesitation in settling
Cape Leveque to be the point he passed round. In commemoration,
therefore, of his visit, the name of Buccaneer’s Archipelago was
given to the cluster of isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was
so-called after the name of the ship in which he sailed. The
point within Cape Leveque was named Point Swan after the Captain
of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the centre of the
Archipelago the name of Dampier’s Monument was assigned. During
the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands
upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not
improbable but that there may be as many more behind them.
Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier
before we passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored
in it for the wind was blowing strong from the northward, and a
heavy swell was rolling, which would have placed us in rather a
dangerous situation, besides its being exposed to easterly winds,
which for the last two or three days had blown very strong.
During the time we had been among these islands, we had not met
with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without the
almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so
very thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the
vessel’s situation could be at all distinguished; and these
disadvantages, added to the great strength of the wind and the
rapidity of the tides, had materially prevented us from making
ourselves better acquainted with the place. It is remarkable that
as soon as we passed round the Champagny Isles, hazy weather
commenced, and continued without intermission until we were to
the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same
thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first
voyage, they laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when
it is only a sandy island about two or three miles long. No
natives were seen on any of the islands but there were many large
smokes on the horizon at the back of Cygnet Bay.
We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing
duty. One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with
bilious or feverish attacks, and we had never been altogether
free from sickness since our arrival upon the coast. Mr.
Montgomery’s wound was, however, happily quite healed, and Mr.
Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr. Cunningham, who had
been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived in Careening
Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east coast,
the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent’s River,
and our constant harassing employment during the examination of
the coast between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced
their bad effects upon the constitutions of our people. Every
means were taken to prevent sickness: preserved meats were issued
two days in the week in lieu of salt provisions; and this diet,
with the usual proportions of lemon-juice and sugar, proved so
good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling exceptions, no
case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered much
from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these
vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball
cartridges, we found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the
number quite destroyed, and the remainder so injured as to be
quite useless.
August 21.
The following day we made very little progress, from light
winds in the morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At
sunset we anchored at about four miles from the shore, in
seventeen fathoms sandy ground.
During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number
of whales, leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with
their fins; the noise of which, from the calmness and perfect
stillness of the air, was as loud as the report of a volley of
musketry. Some remorae were also swimming about the vessel the
whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a yellowish brown
colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon seeing the
vessel.
August 22.
High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes
after six o’clock, at which time we got underweigh with a
moderate land-breeze from South-South-East, and steered to the
southward along the shore. At noon we were in latitude 16 degrees
30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing South 42 1/2 degrees
East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from the northward
and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward along the
coast which is low and sandy. At three o’clock we were abreast of
a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the
French as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained,
with the alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of
Cape Borda the coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of
which was visible from our masthead and appeared to be composed
of sand-downs. From Point Emeriau the coast trends to the
south-west, and preserves the same sandy character. At five
o’clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain Baudin, were
in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight
fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are
three in number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and
other sea-fowl: they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned
with a few shrubby bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed
to be of great extent.
August 23.
The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a
sandy projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of
the midshipman of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape
Baskerville the coast trends in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then
takes a southerly direction. It is here that Tasman landed,
according to the following extract from Dalrymple’s Papua: “In
Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121
degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people,
with curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and
arrows, hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of
fifty, double armed, dividing themselves into two parties,
intending to have surprised the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five
men; but the firing of guns frightened them so, that they fled.
Their proas are made of the bark of trees; their coast is
dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use no
houses.”
At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At
four o’clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin’s Point Coulomb,
which M. De Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the
Red Cliffs commence. The interior is here higher than to the
northward, and gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles
from the shore, to wooded hills, and bears a more pleasing and
verdant appearance than we have seen for some time past; but the
coast still retains the same sandy and uninviting character.
During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze from the
westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen
fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large
flocks of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their
course towards the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the
direction of the Whale Bank, which, according to the French chart
of this part, lies in the offing to the westward. As no island
was noticed by us in the position assigned to Captain Baudin’s
Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape Baskerville has
received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed at
intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which
it may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous.
Captain Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky
islands to the eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint
style, gives the subjoined interesting account of them:
“The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in
the world. The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people,
yet for wealth are gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and
skin garments, sheep, poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich
eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods have: and setting aside their human
shape, they differ but little from brutes. They are tall,
straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs. They have
great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids are
always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they
being so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from
coming to one’s face; and without the assistance of both hands to
keep them off, they will creep into one’s nostrils, and mouth
too, if the lips are not shut very close; so that from their
infancy, being thus annoyed with these insects, they do never
open their eyes as other people; and therefore they cannot see
far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were looking at
somewhat over them.
“They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide
mouths. The two fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all
of them, men and women, old and young; whether they draw them
out, I know not: neither have they any beards. They are
long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect, having no one
graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short and
curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the
common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces
and the rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the
negroes of Guinea.*
(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we
communicated, were not deprived of their front teeth, and wore
their beards long; they also differed from the above description
in having their hair long and curly. Dampier may have been
deceived in this respect, and from the use that they make of
their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread, they
had probably cut it off close, which would give them the
appearance of having woolly hair like the negro.)
“They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a
tree tied like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long
grass, or three or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust
under their girdle, to cover their nakedness.
“They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any
covering; the earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy.
Whether they cohabit one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I
know not; but they do live in companies, twenty or thirty men,
women, and children together. Their only food is a small sort of
fish, which they get by making weirs of stone across little coves
or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the small fish,
the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who constantly
attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I
take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to
catch great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be
left behind at low water: nor could we catch any fish with our
hooks and lines all the while we lay there. In other places at
low water they seek for cockles, mussels, and periwinkles. Of
these shell-fish there are fewer still; so that their chief
dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares; which, be
it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of
their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir
abroad by reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their
return; and what Providence has bestowed on them, they presently
broil on the coals, and eat it in common. Sometimes they get as
many fish as makes them a plentiful banquet; and at other times
they scarce get every one a taste; but be it little or much that
they get, every one has his part, as well the young and tender,
the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, as the strong
and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next low
water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day,
rain or shine, ’tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else
they must fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There
is neither herb, root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to
eat, that we saw; nor any sort of bird or beast that they can
catch, having no instruments wherewithal to do so.
“I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor
creatures have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight
with their enemies, if they have any that will interfere with
their poor fishery. They did at first endeavour with their
weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore, deterred them from one
of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden swords, others
had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped
somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole,
sharp at one end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron,
nor any sort of metal; therefore it is probable they use stone
hatchets, as some Indians in America do, described in Chapter
4.
(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume
1.)
“How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians
do, out of wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and
have myself tried the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood
that is pretty soft, and make a small dent in one side of it,
then they take another hard, round stick, about the bigness of
one’s little finger, and sharpened at one end like a pencil, they
put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat soft piece,
and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm of
their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at
last takes fire.
“These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could
not understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said
before, January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we
presently sent a canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we
were in hopes to get some provision among them. But the
inhabitants, seeing our boat coming, run away and hid themselves.
We searched afterwards three days in hopes to find their houses,
but found none; yet we saw many places where they had made fires.
At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we
searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such
places where we thought they would come. In all our search we
found no water, but old wells on the sandy bays.
“At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a
great many of the natives; I do believe there were forty on one
island, men, women, and children. The men on our first coming
ashore, threatened us with their lances and swords; but they were
frightened by firing one gun, which we fired purposely to scare
them. The island was so small that they could not hide
themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing,
especially the women and children; for we went directly to their
camp. The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran
away howling, and the little children run after squeaking and
bawling; but the men stood still. Some of the women, and such
people as could not go from us, lay still by a fire, making a
doleful noise, as if we had been coming to devour them: but when
they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were pretty quiet,
and the rest that fled from us at our first coming, returned
again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few
boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of.
“After we had been here a little while, the men began to be
familiar, and we clothed some of them, designing to have some
service of them for it; for we found some wells of water here,
and intended to carry two or three barrels of it aboard. But it
being somewhat troublesome to carry to the canoes, we thought to
have made these men to have carried it for us, and therefore we
gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches, to
another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce
worth owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some
places where we had been, and so we thought they might have been
with these people. We put them on them, thinking that this finery
would have brought them to work heartily for us; and our water
being filled in small long barrels, about six gallons in each,
which were made purposely to carry water in, we brought these our
new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each of their
shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we
could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues,
without motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one
upon another; for these poor creatures seem not accustomed to
carry burdens; and I believe that one of our ship-boys of ten
years old would carry as much as one of them. So we were forced
to carry our water ourselves, and they very fairly put the
clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were only to
work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to
them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we
had.
“At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking
for game, espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to
another; for they have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took
four of them, and brought them aboard; two of them were
middle-aged, the other two were young men about eighteen or
twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and with it
turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave
them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and
when they were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they
could. At our first coming, before we were acquainted with them,
or they with us, a company of them who lived on the main, came
just against our ship, and standing on a pretty high bank,
threatened us with their swords and lances, by shaking them at
us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten, which was
done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor
creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could
drive; and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry,
gurry, speaking deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that
live on the main would always run away from us; yet we took
several of them. For, as I have already observed, they had such
bad eyes, that they could not see us till we came close to them.
We did always give them victuals, and let them go again, but the
islanders, after our first time of being among them, did not stir
for us.”*
(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.)
At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of
tide, and the flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was
also the case at our anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At
four o’clock the next morning a strong south-easterly breeze
sprang up, and moderated again before we weighed; but no sooner
were we under sail than it freshened again, and, at half-past
five o’clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing the
topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon
the wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude
observed was 17 degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part
of the land bore North 70 1/2 degrees East, south of which a
sandy point, supposed to be Captain Baudin’s Cape Boileau, bore
South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little to the northward of
the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East must be upon
the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille.
Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to
West-South-West, and enabled us to make some progress; at sunset
we again anchored in thirteen fathoms, soft sand, at six miles
from a sandy projection of the main, which we afterwards found to
be the land called by Captain Baudin, Gantheaume Island; the name
has therefore been given to the point, for there was no
appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate
appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily
crowned with a few shrubby bushes.
Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by
downs of very white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau
is a bay, which at first, from the direction of the flood stream
at the anchorage, was conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide
afterwards set to the Northward and North-East, it was concluded
to be occasioned by the stream sweeping round the shores of the
bay: according to the depth alongside there was a rise of ten
feet; after high-water the ebb set between North 1/2 West and
North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters of a
knot.
During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and
produced a very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so
raised above the horizon by refraction that many distant objects
became visible that could not otherwise have been seen. This
mirage had been frequently observed by us on various parts of the
coast, but never produced so extraordinary an effect as on the
present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of high
chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and
the land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly
seen at the distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards,
the weather being clear, it was not visible above the horizon for
more than five leagues. This state of the atmosphere caused a
rapid evaporation during the day, and as the evening approached a
very copious dew commenced falling, which by sunset was
precipitated like a shower of rain.
The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at
seven o’clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed
to trend round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had
last evening seen it as far to the westward as South-West by
South, we steered in the latter direction under the idea of there
being no opening to the southward of the point, since the
flood-tide flowed from it instead of towards it, as it naturally
would have done had there been any inlet of consequence
thereabout.
As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights
of boobies; one of the latter lighted upon the deck this
afternoon, and was easily taken; it seemed to be the same bird
(Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the reefs upon the north and
north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday our progress was
much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we were in
17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the
sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we
steered to the southward. The land was now visible considerably
to the southward of Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy
character; and as we proceeded it came in sight to the
South-South-West. At sunset we anchored about five or six miles
to the north of Captain Baudin’s Cape Villaret; the extreme,
which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his Cape
Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the
East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at
the back of Point Gantheaume.
The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the
last, and the sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was
throughout fine. We now began to experience a more considerable
set of tide than we had found since rounding Cape Leveque, for
the rate was as much as a knot and a half; but as the tides were
neaped it only rose nine feet.
At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain
Dampier remarks that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran
so strong that his nun-buoy would not watch: but the French
expedition, at an anchorage a little to the southward, found the
flood-tide to set South-South-East and to rise only nine feet,
the moon being then three days past her full. All these
particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of
the tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the
existence of either a strait or an opening between this and the
Rosemary Islands; but from our experience it would appear more
probable that these great tides are occasioned by the numerous
inlets that intersect the coast between this and Cape Voltaire; a
further examination, however, can only prove the real cause.
August 26.
At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from
South-West, but soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide
drifting us to the South-East the anchor was again dropped: ten
minutes afterwards a land breeze from East-South-East sprung up,
to which we again weighed, but no sooner were we under sail than
we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the land, where
it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven o’clock
the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from
our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually
dispersed the fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape
Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing South 17 degrees West. At
half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to the westward of
Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the hill on the
cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and
Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land,
slightly clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now
unfavourable for our approaching the land, and after standing off
to sea and then towards the shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms
coarse sand.
At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the
tides than was experienced the night preceding; the flood set
South-East by East and East-South-East; and the ebb from
North-North-East round to West-North-West; the rise was sixteen
feet and a half, from which it would appear probable that there
must be some reason for so great an indraught of water into the
bight between Cape Villaret and Point Gantheaume, which I have
named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain Dampier commanded
when he visited this part of the coast.
As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from
some southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow
and tedious; and as the shore for some distance to the southward
of Cape Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I
resolved upon leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly
expended, and our provisions, generally, were in a very bad
state; besides which the want of a second anchor was so much felt
that we dared not venture into any difficulty where the
appearance of the place invited a particular investigation, on
account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the strength of
the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every
consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any
longer upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended
us in our difficulties.
August 27.
Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and
directed our course for Mauritius.
1821. September 22.
On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of
twenty-five days we saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the
northward. In the evening a fresh gale sprung up from the
southward and we experienced very bad weather: at noon of the
24th by our calculation we were seventy-three miles due East from
the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before experienced
a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at sunset
for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore.
September 25.
At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only
thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island,
we bore up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was
not seen until noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east
end, instead of the north point; having been set to the southward
since yesterday noon at the rate of three quarters of a mile an
hour: in consequence of which we determined upon going round the
south side, and bore up for that purpose; upon approaching the
land we found another current setting us to the north.
September 26.
The next morning at nine o’clock we passed round the Morne
Brabant, the south-west point of the island, but it was four
o’clock before we reached our anchorage (at a cable’s length
within the flag beacon at the entrance of Port Louis) in fifteen
fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health Officer, and
afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at anchor in
the port.
September 27.
But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not
moved until the following morning, when she was warped in and
moored head and stern within the harbour.
My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B.
(of H.M. Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be
performed by the carpenters of his ship; those articles which
could not be supplied from the Menai’s stores were advertised for
in the Mauritius Gazette, when the most reasonable tenders were
accepted.
As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could
be spared from their other occupations were daily employed upon
our repairs; but from her being put into quarantine and other
unforeseen delays they were not completed for nearly a month: our
sails were repaired by the Menai’s sailmakers; and, as all our
running rigging was condemned and we had very little spare rope
on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our wants. The
greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from
leaks, was surveyed and condemned.
Captain Flinders’ account of Mauritius appears to have been
drawn up with much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the
present day, so descriptive of the island as to be considered,
both by the English and French residents of Port Louis, as the
best that has yet been given to the world. Many alterations and
considerable improvements have however taken place since his
departure, and among the latter the improved system of the
culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern
machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These
have been effected entirely by the political changes that have,
since Captain Flinders’ captivity, taken place in the government
of the island; and by the example and exertions of the English,
who possess very large plantations, and indeed may be considered
now as the principal proprietors of the land.
(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the
high terms in which my late friend and predecessor Captain
Flinders was spoken of by the inhabitants of this island, and
their general regret at his infamous detention. His friend M.
Pitot had lately died, but I met many French gentlemen who were
acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was so much
disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many
friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled
themselves about him; and this circumstance probably went far
towards increasing the severity of the treatment he so unjustly
received. An anecdote of him was related to me by a resident of
Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his honour, I cannot lose
the gratification of recording.When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d’Arifat in
the district of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly
permitted to reside upon his parole, an opportunity of escaping
from the island was offered to him by the commander of a ship
bound to India: it was urged to him by his friends that, from the
tyrannical treatment he had received and the unjustifiable
detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as General
Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining
his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his
friends and country. The escape was well planned, and no chance
of discovery likely to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis,
and at night, bringing to on the leeward side of the island
abreast of Captain Flinders’ residence, sent a boat to the
appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame d’Arifat’s
house; but after waiting until near daylight without the captain
making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was
obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion.It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not
think it consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the
opportunity, nor to effect his escape from imprisonment by a
conduct so disgraceful to the character of a British officer and
to the honourable profession to which he belonged.)
For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island
and cotton is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the
habitans appeared to be given to the cultivation of the sugar
cane and maize, both of which had begun to produce an abundant
return to the planters; the manihot is also generally cultivated:
but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to which this island
is exposed render property of so precarious and doubtful a tenure
that nothing is secure until the season for these destructive
visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December to
the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon,
being invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in
the barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed
hurricanes: the last experienced before our visit was merely a
coup de vent, by which very little damage was sustained.*
(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this
unfortunate island was again visited and laid waste by a
tremendous hurricane that did very considerable damage, and has
in a great measure destroyed the prosperous state which the
island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long absence
of this dreadful visitation.)
The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward,
side of the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre
of low land, backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon
which Peter Botte and the Pouce are conspicuous features. The
streets are laid out at rightangles, the principal of which lead
from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a plot of grassy land
about half a mile square that intervenes between the town and the
hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse, and, in
fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by
houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The
Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops
of which those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur
et Patissier, are the most numerous.
The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far
from being elegant in their appearance; those however that have
been lately constructed by our countrymen have already given the
place an appearance of solidity that it could not boast of
before, and several substantial stone dwellings and stones have
lately been erected. The roads for seven or eight miles out of
the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains Wilhelms and to
Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair partly by
Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that distance
is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a
steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour.
At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when
we were about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be
common; besides which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws,
grapes, the letchy (or let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some
indifferent pineapples. The ship’s company were supplied daily
with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter were procured in
abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine, particularly
carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine flavour.
Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which
trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine
season.
Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of
Good Hope and fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and
seventy-seven mules arrived from Buenos Ayres while we were at
Port Louis, which, on being sold by auction, averaged each one
hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the importation of these
useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered by the
government for every mule that is brought alive to the
island.
The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a
very great depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon
Europe, at the time of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per
cent, and upon silver coin there was a depreciation of 45 per
cent.
On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west
coast were reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to
the Admiralty by H.M. Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account
of our voyage from the time that we parted company with the Dick,
off Cape Van Diemen.
No observations were taken at this place excepting for
ascertaining the rates of the chronometers, and for the variation
and dip of the magnetic needle: the former being 12 degrees 31
minutes West, and the latter 51 degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The
situation of the observatory has been long since fixed by the
Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, and 57
degrees 29 minutes East longitude.
I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to
Mauritius without expressing my acknowledgments for the
civilities and hospitality we received from our countrymen at
Port Louis, particularly from His Excellency Sir Robert T.
Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided as Governor of the
Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in our
re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship
Menai, for which the expedition I had the honour to command is
under more than a common professional obligation.
CHAPTER 3.
Departure from Port Louis.
Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.
Anchor in King George the Third’s Sound.
Occurrences there.
Visited by the Natives.
Our intercourse with them.
Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.
Vocabulary of their language.
Meteorological and other observations.
Edible plants.
Testaceous productions.
1821. November 10.
On the 10th November we were ready for sea.
November 15.
But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the
15th. At midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next
evening at sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two
days we had south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25
degrees, the winds became light and baffling with calms.
November 21.
But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered
to east and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very
fine weather.
November 28.
We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds
until the 28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47
minutes and longitude 65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we
encountered westerly winds and rough weather. On the whole we had
a very quick passage to the coast of New Holland; and for the
last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale without
encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance
worth recording.
1821. December 23.
On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham
was in sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King
George’s Sound; where it was my intention to complete our wood
and water previous to commencing the examination of the west
coast. At four o’clock in the afternoon we hauled round Bald Head
and, entering the Sound, soon afterwards anchored at one mile
from the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour.
December 24.
Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I
wished on this occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I
was both unacquainted with its entrance, as well as its
convenience for our purposes, excepting from Captain Flinders’
account, I hoisted the boat out early the next morning, to make
the necessary examination before the sea-breeze commenced. Whilst
the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard, and upon our
looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians were
seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving
to us, but no further notice than a return of their call was
taken until after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the
whale-boat. As we drew near the shore they came down to receive
us and appeared from their gestures to invite our landing; but in
this they were disappointed, for, after a little vociferation and
gesture on both sides, we pulled into the harbour, whilst they
walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the motions of every
one of them were attentively watched it was evident that they
were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left
shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm
exposed. Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied
in the Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near
enough to the shore to carry on our different operations without
being impeded by the natives, even though they should be amicably
disposed. Our plan was therefore altered and, as the anchorage
formerly occupied by the Mermaid in the entrance of Oyster
Harbour would be on all accounts more convenient for our
purposes, I determined upon going thither.
By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach
where the boat was lying, and were wading through the water
towards us; but as we had no wish at present to communicate with
them, for fear that, by refusing anything we had in the boat, for
which their importunity would perhaps be very great, a quarrel
might be occasioned, we pulled off into deeper water where we
remained for five minutes parleying with them, during which they
plainly expressed their disappointment and mortification at our
want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh water, which they
instantly understood, they called out to us “badoo, badoo,” and
pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has marked a
rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it was
thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late
visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word
kangaroo was also familiar to them.*
(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the
vessel that joined our company during our passage up the east
coast, visited this port in December 1820 and communicated with
the natives; it is therefore probable that the above words were
obtained from that vessel’s crew.)
Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon
the beach abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out
of the entrance, when they resumed their former station upon the
rocks and we returned on board.
Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a
fresh sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour,
but in crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and
a half feet water, and it was some time before we succeeded in
heaving her over, and reaching the anchorage we had occupied at
our last visit. Whilst warping in, the natives, who had followed
the vessel along the sandy beach that separates the two harbours,
were amusing themselves near us in striking fish with a single
barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be tolerably
successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives made
their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to
that shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as
unceremoniously as a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon
its returning to the brig, came on board, and remained with us
all the afternoon, much amused with everything they saw, and
totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of our visitors was
covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were laid aside
upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty of
which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite
shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly
vociferous in their request to be sent for also; but
unfortunately for them it was the lee shore, so that no boat went
near them; and as we did not wish to be impeded by having so many
on the deck at one time, their request was not acceded to and by
degrees they separated and retired in different directions.
As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went
ashore, evidently charged with some message from the other
native, but as he voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile
was suspected; we therefore landed and dug a hole three feet deep
among the grass about two yards above the highest tide-mark, for
water; but it was found to be so highly coloured and muddy as it
flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand nearer the edge
of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved to be of
a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered
through the sand.
On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so
much altered from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could
scarcely recognise its situation. The stem of the casuarina on
which the Mermaid’s name and the date of our visit had been
carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the inscription in
consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818, and two
or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least
trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was
covered by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand
and decayed vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine
plants in full flower, that would be much prized in any other
place than where they were. The initials of the names of some of
our people were still very perfect upon the stem of a large
Banksia grandis which, from being covered with its superb
flowers, bore a magnificent and striking appearance.
After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it
appeared that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and
faces had evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which
they pointed out to us as a great ornament; affording another
proof that vanity is inherent in human nature and not merely the
consequence of civilisation. They had however put off the
garments with which we had clothed them and resumed their
mantles.
Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as
we supposed, to make a fire, and to pass the night near the
vessel, in order to watch our intentions and movements.
On returning on board we desired the native who had remained
behind to go ashore to his companions, but it was with great
reluctance that he was persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board,
our people had fed him plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding,
tea, and grog, of which he ate and drank as if he was half
famished, and after being crammed with this strange mixture and
very patiently submitting his beard to the operation of shaving,
he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and
christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called,
and to which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the
shore, his companions came to meet him to hear an account of what
had transpired during their absence, as well as to examine his
new habiliments which, as may be conceived, had effected a very
considerable alteration in his appearance, and at the same time
that the change created much admiration on the part of his
companions, it raised him very considerably in his own
estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve
his appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in
his chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his
companions, with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles
thrown carelessly over their shoulders.
Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen
with them or angry with us for sending him on shore, for without
deigning to reply to their questions he separated himself from
them, and after watching us in silence for some time, walked
quietly and slowly away, followed at a distance by his friends
who were lost in wonder at what could have happened to their
sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had probably
taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very
trifling, he might have been a little stupefied.
December 25.
At daylight the following morning the natives had again
collected on both sides, and upon the jolly-boat’s landing the
people to examine the wells Jack, having quite recovered his good
humour, got into the boat and came on board. The natives on the
opposite side were vociferous to visit us, and were holding long
conversations with Jack, who explained everything to them in a
song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus the
words “Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh” which they always repeated when
anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no
intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in
fishing. Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been
left by the tide on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards
the deep water; at last one of the natives, fixing his spear in
its throwing-stick, advanced very cautiously and, when within ten
or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced the animal through the
neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck his spear into it
also, and then beating it about the head with a small hammer very
soon despatched it.
This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted
in landing their prize and washing the sand off the body; they
then carried the animal to their fire at the edge of the grass
and began to devour it even before it was dead. Curiosity induced
Mr. Cunningham and myself to view this barbarous feast and we
landed about ten minutes after it had commenced. The moment the
boat touched the sand the natives, springing up and throwing
their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and
before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready
to go on board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to
witness their savage feast. On going to the place we found an old
man seated over the remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which
had already disappeared; he was holding a long strip of the raw
flesh in his left hand, and tearing it off the body with a sort
of knife; a boy was also feasting with him and both were too
intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the least
disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon
satisfied and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of
so horrible a repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by
the effluvia that arose from the dying animal, combined with that
of the bodies of the natives who had daubed themselves from head
to foot with a pigment made of a red ochreous earth mixed up with
seal-oil.
We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great
patience in the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted
them to go on board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville
took a man from each mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined
by an Indian carrying some spears and a throwing-stick, but on
Mr. Baskerville’s calling for a musket that was in the boat (to
the use of which they were not strangers) he laid aside his
spears, which probably were only carried for the purpose of
striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the oysters.
As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned
on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent
onshore, highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit
and pudding which the people had given them to eat. They were
very attentive to the mixture of a pudding, and a few small
dumplings were made and given to them, which they put on the bars
of the fireplace but, being too impatient to wait until they were
baked, ate them in a doughy state with much relish.
Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on
board after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time:
one of them, an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker’s
cutting out a boat’s sail, and at his request was presented with
all the strips that were of no use. When it was completed a small
piece of canvas was missing, upon which the old man, being
suspected of having secreted it, was slightly examined, but
nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people were
looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and
appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked
away towards another part of the deck and interested himself in
other things. This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the
sailmaker to examine the old man more closely, when the lost
piece was found concealed under his left arm, which was covered
by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin. This circumstance afforded
me a good opportunity of showing them our displeasure at so
flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in them; I
therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I
could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed
but afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much
alarmed: upon which his two companions, who were both boys,
wanted to go onshore; this however was not permitted until I had
made peace with the old man, and put them all in good humour by
feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The two boys were soon
satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and conscious of his
guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with us, yet he
always hung down his head and sneaked into the background.
During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and
in the evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on
board for half an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to
Green Island and shot a few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of
which he gave to the natives after explaining how they had been
killed, which of course produced great applause. December 26.
The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which
the natives, particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this
day twenty-one natives about us and among them were five
strangers. They were not permitted to come on board until four
o’clock in the afternoon, excepting Jack, who was privileged to
come and go as he liked, which, since it did not appear to create
any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to detain him as a
hostage for Mr. Cunningham’s safety, who was busily engaged in
adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of the
vessel.
In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top
masthead, much to the amusement of his companions but to the
mortification of Bundell who had never taken courage to mount so
high.
The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a
stream was found in the sandy bay to the eastward of the
entrance, running over the beach, which we used when the holes
were emptied of their contents; the latter were however
preferred, since our people worked at them under an immediate
protection from the vessel’s deck. Near the stream we found some
felled trees and the staves of a cask.*
(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant
brig wooded and watered in 1820.)
December 27 to 28.
Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the
natives; the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides
some whom we had before seen that were now absent. During the
afternoon of the 28th the wind freshened from south-west and blew
so strong as to cause a considerable swell where we were lying;
but towards sunset the breeze moderated and the natives were
again admitted on board; there were, however, only eleven, for
the rest, having worn out their patience, had walked away.
They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing
anything against our wishes. The words “by and by” were so often
used by us in answer to their cau-wah, or “come here,” that their
meaning was perfectly understood and always satisfied the
natives, since we made it a strict rule never to disappoint them
of anything that was promised, an attention to which is of the
utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every evening
that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit
was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was
always presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the
day they were busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives,
and hammers, for the evening’s barter; and when they came in the
morning they generally brought a large collection, which their
wives had probably made in their absence.
December 29.
On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and
prepared to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen
feet water at the buoy which had been moored on the deepest part
of the bar, the depth of which, during the two preceding days,
had been frequently sounded.
In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among
whom was our friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away
they expressed great sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack,
who was more than usually entertaining but kept, as he always
did, at a distance from his companions and treated them with the
greatest disdain. When the time came to send them on shore he
endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as usual was the last
to go into the boat; instead however of following them, he went
into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was preparing
to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to
return in her.
This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all
and was allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he
pleased; he always wore the shirt that had been given to him on
the first day and endeavoured to imitate everything that our
people were employed upon; particularly the carpenter and the
sailmaker at their work: he was the only native who did not
manufacture spears for barter, for he was evidently convinced of
the superiority of our weapons and laughed heartily whenever a
bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for sale: for the
natives, finding we took everything, were not very particular in
the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to us. He
was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and
if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information
of this part of the country; for we were becoming more and more
intelligible to each other every day: he frequently accompanied
Mr. Cunningham in his walks and not only assisted him in carrying
his plants but occasionally added to the specimens he was
collecting.
December 30.
The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps
laid out, but from various delays we did not reach a birth
sufficiently near the bar to make sail from, until the water had
fallen too much to allow our passing it: the brig was therefore
moored in the stream of the tide.
At eight o’clock the natives came down as usual and were much
disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place.
After the vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent
to the watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party
were assembled with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and
knives, for barter. Upon the return of the boats our friend Jack
came on board and appeared altogether so attached to us that some
thoughts were entertained of taking him on our voyage up the west
coast if he was inclined to go. As he did not want for
intelligence there was not much difficulty in making him
understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he
appeared to assent without the least hesitation, but that it
might be satisfactorily ascertained whether he really wished to
go it was intimated to him that he should tell his companions of
this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell accordingly took him on shore,
and purchased all the spears the natives had brought down, that,
in case they should feel angry at his leaving them, they might
have no weapons to do any mischief with.
When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his
intended departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was
going, but his friends received the intelligence with the most
careless indifference, their attention being entirely engrossed
with the barter that was going on. After the spears were
purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat followed by Jack, who
seated himself in his place with apparent satisfaction.
While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons
Jack brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously
concealed behind a bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but
after he had embarked and the boat was leaving the shore he threw
it among his companions, thereby affording us a most satisfactory
proof of the sincerity of his intentions.
About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon
taking him, the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which,
causing a slight motion, affected our friend’s head so much that
he came to me and, touching his tongue and pointing to the shore,
intimated his wish to speak to the natives. He was therefore
immediately landed and Mr. Baskerville, after purchasing some
spears and waiting a few minutes, prepared to return on board:
upon getting into the boat he looked at our volunteer but Jack,
having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head and hung back;
he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat’s leaving the beach
the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was
perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk
away without exchanging a word with them.
December 31.
The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too
unsettled and the breeze too strong from the westward to think of
moving from the anchorage. Jack and another native were down on
the rocks at an early hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at
eight o’clock some natives appeared on the opposite shore with
spears and knives to barter, but we had no communication with
them.
During our visit we have obtained from these people about one
hundred spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one
hundred and fifty knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each
being at from half to one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig,
shield, nor boomerang; it is probable that they may have such
weapons but did not produce them from a dislike at parting with
them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which did not require
much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter,
particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter
Pindar’s razors, only made for sale.
Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys:
they were in most respects similar to their neighbours, having
the same long curly hair and slight figure; they did not appear
to be a navigating tribe, for we saw no canoes, nor did we
observe any trees in the woods with the bark stripped, of which
material they are usually made; and, from the timid manner they
approached the water, it is more than probable that they are not
much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in
stating that the natives of this place do not use the
throwing-stick; but it is probable they did not produce those
instruments to him, for fear of being deprived of them, for it
required much persuasion on our part to prevail upon them to let
us have any; they were much more ingeniously formed than others
that we had previously seen, and different also, in having a
small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy
knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the
spears: the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these
throwing-sticks, or mearas, were three inches broad and two feet
six inches long. See Woodcut 3.
The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of
leptospermum that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are
from nine to ten feet long and barbed with a piece of hard wood,
fastened on by a ligature of bark gummed over; we saw none that
were not barbed, or had not a hole at the end to receive the
hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the method by which
this weapon is propelled.
The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose
of breaking open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals
by striking them on the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be
used as a chopping or cutting instrument; the handle is from
twelve to fifteen inches long, having one end scraped to a sharp
point, and on each side at the other end two pieces of hard stone
fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which, when dry, is almost
as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one pound
weight. See Woodcut 5.
The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the
sort that ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long,
scraped to a point like the hammer, and has, at the other end,
three or four splinters of sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row
with gum, thus forming a sort of ragged instrument. See Woodcut
6. It is thus used: after they have put within their teeth a
sufficient mouthful of seal’s flesh, the remainder is held in
their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw
through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or
more of these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also
an indispensable instrument with them.
(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the
manner in which these taaps are used, by referring to Captain
Lyon’s drawing of the Esquimaux sledges at page 290 of Parry’s
Second Voyage: the natives of King George’s Sound however hold
the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.)
We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief
or superior among them; the two parties that collected daily on
the opposite sides of the harbour evidently belonged to the same
tribe for they occasionally mixed with each other. Their
habitations were probably scattered about in different parts for
when the natives went away for the night they separated into
several groups, not more than three or four going together, and
these generally returned in company the next morning by the same
path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at
different times and some evidently came from a distance greater
than others, for they were later in arriving and always took
their leave at an earlier hour.
With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one
above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt
to steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the
Oyster Bank, our communication with these people was carried on
in the most friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their
knowledge, on shore every day attended only by his servant, but
none, excepting Jack, followed him after they had ascertained the
intention of his walk, and observed the care that he took to
avoid going near their habitations, for which they evinced a
great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a
half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode
of living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we
never succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our
curiosity. On one occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor
out in the direction of their dwelling-place, and upon the boat’s
crew landing and carrying it along the beach, the natives
followed and intimated by signs that we should not go that way;
as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they understood our
intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser to
make fast to it.
They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket,
although not the least alarmed at having one fired off near them.
Everything they saw excited their admiration, particularly the
carpenter’s tools and our clothes; but what appeared to surprise
them above all other things was the effect produced upon the
flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing the explosion of a
train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it was from
the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when Jack
requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had
brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done
while the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five
minutes until the sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded
me of the removal of the obstacle. He was a good deal surprised
at my collecting the rays of the sun upon my own hand, supposing
that I was callous to the pain, from which he had himself before
shrunk; but as I held the glass within the focus distance, no
painful sensation was produced; after which he presented me his
own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to hold the
glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater
reason, equally astonished us in our turn.
They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a
cloak of kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread
under them when they lie down. Their hair was dressed in
different ways; sometimes it was clotted with red pigment and
seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round with a fillet of
opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which parrot-feathers,
escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in different
fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance.
Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over
with a mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most
disgusting effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our
friend Jack used, after his acquaintance with us, was the
carpenter’s chalk, which he thought particularly ornamental.
Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and
one had several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of
which, as they jingled together, he probably thought musical.
The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and
knife is manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a
small yarn like worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or
four hundred times round the stomach; very few however possessed
this ornament; and it is not improbable that the natives who had
their hair clubbed, those that wore belts, and the one who was
ornamented with shells, held some particular offices in the
tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to discover.
During our communication with these people the following
vocabulary of their language was obtained, of which some of the
words are compared with those recorded by Captain Flinders: these
last are inserted in the third column.
(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a
subsequent visit on our return to England the following
year.)
The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions
of the compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea
and land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning
the wind was usually light from the northward and at ten o’clock,
gradually dying away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea,
generally from South-West or South-East; this sea-breeze
occasionally blew fresh until four o’clock in the evening when it
would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a light air.
The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches;
a fall of the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise
predicted it from the South-East: when it stood at thirty inches
we had sea-breezes from south with fine weather. The easterly
winds were dry; westerly ones the reverse. The moisture of the
atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer, was ascertained with
tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of sea-weed,
the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture
of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on
all occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a
change of wind much sooner than the barometer.
Fahrenheit’s thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but
the usual extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees.
1822. January 1.
During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was
frequently sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a
half water upon it we were necessarily detained at the
anchorage.
January 2.
On the following morning also at four o’clock the depth was
the same; but at ten o’clock the water rose suddenly eighteen
inches, upon which the anchors were lifted and the brig warped
over the bar to an anchorage in three and a half fathoms off the
outer watering-place, to await a favourable opportunity of going
over to Seal Island; near which it was intended to anchor in
order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare the vessel for
our voyage up the west coast.
In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the
natives, thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another
visit. On their coming on board it was noticed that many of them
belonged to the tribe that lived on the opposite shore, but how
they had crossed over was not satisfactorily ascertained. Their
wonder on this their last visit was much raised by our firing off
a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash of which in the water
caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them was extremely
vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon
repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the
operation of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise
at the weight of the ball, upon which, after they had all
severally examined it, they held a long and wordy argument as to
what it possibly could be. At the splash of the ball, for which
they were all looking out, they expressed their delight by
shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh.
After this they were sent on shore.
January 3.
At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross
the sound, and by eight o’clock the brig was anchored under Seal
Island; upon which we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in
the course of the day shifted the main topmast. We had left the
anchorage on the other side of the sound too early for our
friends the natives, who had promised last evening to bring us a
hawk’s nest that was built upon a rock near the watering-place;
at ten o’clock a very large fire was perceived close to the nest;
it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they were
not inattentive to their promise.
January 4.
The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon
the beach but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham
botanised upon the summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave
me the following account: “Upon reaching the summit of the ridge,
and clearing a rocky gully which intersected our track, we
instantly entered an elevated valley of pure white sand, bounded
on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were in themselves
totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing of
shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely
supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be
respired, although we were at a considerable elevation, and in
the vicinity of a constant current of pure atmospheric air on the
ridge. After traversing the whole length of this sandy vale,
which is one-third of a mile in extent, in our route towards Bald
Head, with scarcely a plant to attract our attention, we
perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine specimens of
Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the poverty
and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading
trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were
at this time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful
was it to the eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary
in this heated valley, that whilst I gathered a quantity of the
seeds of this truly rich plant, my servant was obliged to hurry
away to a cooler air on the ridge, which we had again nearly
reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less conspicuous
blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have
deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of
aridity are naturally calculated to excite.
“Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature
required our care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition,
we came to the granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate
specimen of baeckea, remarkable for the regularity of its
decussate leaves, which I have designated in my list as Baeckea
saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of the ridge, I was much
surprised to find we had already attained the highest point of
the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive cavity,
of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination
of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain
Vancouver. This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward,
having on either side of its bare sandy summit a contrasting
brushy vegetation: from the sea however a very small part only of
its extensive surface of sand can be perceived, the greater part
being only observable from the commanding hillocks we had with
much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock (affording evidently
a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen in a
decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the
ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite;
the dense low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of
the delicate baeckea.”*
(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals
for the sake of their skins, which were serviceable for the
rigging; the boat’s crew also found some penguins (Aptenodytes
minor) and a nest of iguanas. The bottle deposited here at our
last visit in 1818 was found suspended where it had been left and
brought on board, when another memorandum was enclosed in it,
containing a notification of our present visit, of the friendly
and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the
vocabulary of their language.
January 5.
On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after
visiting the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is
merely a bare mass of granite, of about thirty yards in diameter,
some natives were heard calling to us, and upon our pulling to
the part whence the sound came, we found two men and a boy. After
some time they were discovered to be three of our Oyster-Harbour
friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of communicating
with them, and of taking them on board, where they were regaled
upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island.
Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of
this sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our
communication with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding.
And that this might not even be accidentally done, I requested
Mr. Cunningham to confine his walks to the vicinity of the
vessel, and particularly to avoid any route that would take him
towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented from
visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much
amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the
neighbourhood of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster
Harbour. At our former visit to this place he had searched in
vain for that curious little plant Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,*
but on this occasion he was more fortunate, for he found it in
the greatest profusion in the vicinity of the stream that empties
itself over the beach of the outer bay where we watered. Of this
he says: “The plants of cephalotus were all in a very weak state,
and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or
pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and
intermixed about the root with the leaves, all contained a
quantity of discoloured water, and, in some, the drowned bodies
of ants and other small insects. Whether this fluid can be
considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really to be the
fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of
India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers;
or even a secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is
not simply rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision
from which the plant might derive support in seasons of
protracted drought, when those marshy lands (in which this
vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried of the
moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be
presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like
some species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some
pitchers to be very closely shut upon their orifices, although
their cavities, upon examination, contained but very little
water, and the state of the weather was exceedingly cloudy, and
at intervals showery; if, therefore, the appendages are really
cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the nourishment of
the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose that this
circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the lids,
so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the
pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of
examining plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the
vertical or horizontal positions in which the opercula were
remarked, are determined by the state of the atmosphere, at the
same time that he thinks it possible that the fluid may be a
secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that were
observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly
deposited there by an insect of prey, since I detected a
slender-bodied fly (ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having
evidently forced its passage under the lid to the interior, where
an abundant store of putrescent insects were collected. Whilst,
therefore, these pitchers are answering the double purpose, of
being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however produced, for the
nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry season, as also
a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in sarracenia, or
the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the air,
disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial
to the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has
suggested, in respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the
swamp of Georgia and Carolina.
(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown’s
General Remarks in Flinders volume 2 page 601 et
seq.)
(**Footnote. Smith’s Introduction to Botany page
150.)
“I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering
specimens of cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak,
and showed no disposition to produce flowers at the season, and
none had more than three or four ascidia.”*
(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a
creeping parsley (Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of
orach (Atriplex halimus, Brown) the latter was used by us every
day, boiled with salt provisions, and proved a tolerable
substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit we caught but
very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on account
of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the
natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight
for fear of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at
Mistaken Island in abundance, of which the most common were a
patella and an haliotis; the inhabitant of the former made a
coarse, although a savoury dish. There were also varieties of the
following genera: namely, lepas, chiton, cardium, pinna, nerita,
two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus, and a small
buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low water
might be collected in abundance.
CHAPTER 4.
Leave King George the Third’s Sound, and commence the
survey of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.
Another remarkable effect of mirage.
Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.
Break an anchor.
Examine the coast to the northward.
Cape Leschenault.
Lancelin Island.
Jurien Bay.
Houtman’s Abrolhos.
Moresby’s Flat-topped Range.
Red Point.
Anchor in Dirk Hartog’s Road, at the entrance of Shark’s Bay.
Occurrences there.
Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.
Barrow Island.
Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.
Rowley’s Shoals.
Cape Leveque.
Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer’s
Archipelago.
Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.
Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.
Adele Island.
Return to Port Jackson.
1822. January 6.
We sailed from King George’s Sound on the 6th.
January 8.
But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the
8th than the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a
current setting at one mile an hour to the westward, the brig
made considerable progress.
January 10.
At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the
masthead, and at eight o’clock was seen from the deck at the
distance of ten leagues, bearing North 42 degrees East by
compass.
At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland,
Captain Flinders commenced his examination of the south coast,
but saw no part to the northward. The French expedition under
Captain Baudin were upon this part at two different periods of
their voyage, and it appears from an examination of their tracks
that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and Peron, the latter of
which is about five leagues to the southward of the entrance of
Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They landed
in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from
southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and
West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being
shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter.
The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron’s description, barren
and unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste
which lies about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that
name there seems to be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The
small inlet of Port Leschenault is only the embouchure of a
salt-marsh; it is scarcely attainable even by boats; for there
appears to be only three feet water on the bar, and over and
within it not more than fifteen feet. The French found no fresh
water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault to Cape
Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate
height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The
French ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or
five miles from the beach, and the report made by them is
sufficiently in detail for all the purposes of navigation.
Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we
should examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a
distance from the land to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron,
in order to explore the bay behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon.
Swan River and Rottnest Island had been already carefully
examined by the French; but from the latter island to the
North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark’s Bay, they saw very
little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from
Van Keulen.*
(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.)
At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14
seconds, and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache
Blanche remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East
(magnetic). At six o’clock in the evening we passed Cape
Naturaliste, having experienced a strong current setting North 11
degrees West, at nearly two miles per hour; hence we steered to
the northward, but it was dark when we passed near the position
assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on for three
hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o’clock hauled
to the wind for the night.
January 11.
The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes
2 seconds, having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the
masthead, bearing East by South 1/2 South; but during the day the
wind was so light that we had not approached it within four
leagues by sunset.
At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard
between which and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills
appeared to be tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height.
Buache Island was visible as well as the small rocky islet
between it and Cape Peron. The former is low and sandy, and its
outline of hummocky shape; and to the eastward was some distant
land trending towards the assigned entrance of Swan River. To the
northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on the horizon,
which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was very
indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it
disappeared a very copious dew began to fall.
January 12.
The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape
Peron was ten miles off, but at half-past nine o’clock we were
between Capes Peron and Bouvard, and about five miles from the
shore, which from the former extended in a North-East by North
direction, still low and sandy.
At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes
42 seconds, but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30
seconds, a difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was
occasioned by the haze which concealed the true horizon, and
caused an appearance of land all round us, on which rocks, sandy
beaches, and trees were so plainly formed that the officer of the
watch actually reported two islands on the western horizon. This
was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we ever
witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon,
whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being
taken; and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for
half an hour, puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the
observed latitude with the bearings of the land. This curious
phenomenon was also witnessed by the French in Geographe Bay.
During the time this magical appearance continued, we had very
light airs from the southward: the barometrical column fell to
29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an extraordinary
dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when
Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32
degrees East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from
West-South-West but gradually veered round to the southward; and
at nine o’clock was very light from South-East.
January 13.
During the night we made short tacks. At four o’clock in the
morning (13th) the latitude by the moon’s meridional altitude was
32 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest
was in sight in the North-North-East. At six o’clock the sky was
clouded, and the weather threatened to be bad; the mercury fell
to 29.69 inches, upon which all sail was made off the land, as
appearances indicated a westerly gale: but after an interval of
two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from North-West by
West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards Rottnest
Island.
January 14.
The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end
of the island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the
afternoon I went on shore in a bay on the east or leeward side,
where we found the water smooth and the landing more practicable
than upon the north side where a tremendous surf was rolling in
upon the beach. We disturbed a great many seals but only killed
three; and were much disappointed in finding that these animals
were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet’s account of
the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same
description as those noticed at King George’s Sound. The traces
of a small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were
not seen. We walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the
French named Etangs Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks
as being surrounded by an extensive beach, composed entirely of
bivalve shells, a species of cardium: the quantity was indeed
extraordinary. The banks were frequented by gulls and sandpipers,
of which many were shot. The water was found to be perfectly salt
and from the circumstance of its rising and falling with the tide
it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of the
island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of
decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the
genera buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we
found none with the living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe
a hawk and a pigeon were the only land-birds seen; but boobies,
terns, and sandpipers were very numerous about the shores. Mr.
Cunningham was fully employed during the short time that we were
on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest created in our
minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom before
seen, and which from Vlaming’s account bears a prominent place in
the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the
party that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the
productions of this island he makes the following brief remarks:
“It is surprising that an island, situated at so short a distance
from the south-west coast, should bear so small a feature of the
characteristic vegetation of King George’s Sound as not to
furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or Mimoseae,
and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore seem
that these families are confined to the shores of the main,
particularly about King George’s Sound, where we have just left
them in the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the
botanical productions of this island there is no plant of so
striking a feature as the callitris, a tree of about twenty-five
feet high, with a short stem of three feet in diameter; it much
resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its robust
horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and
within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a
succession of small hills and intervening valleys; and although
the soil is very poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose
sand and a large proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree
grows to a considerable size, but covering the surface of the
island, gives it a monotonous appearance which is however
occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species of
melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more
elegant pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In
fact, these three trees constitute the timber of the island. The
ground is in some parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus,
Labil., in which I detected a new species of xerotes, a round
bushy plant growing in large bodies.
“No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island:
indeed the loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious
enough to retain that element at the surface. The woods are
abundantly stocked with a small species of kangaroo of which we
saw only the traces; nor did we see the animal, on account of
whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island received its
name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new
genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does
not appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the
natives from the main; probably on account of the stormy nature
of the weather, and the prevalence of westerly winds, which would
be quite sufficient to deter them from venturing to sea in such
fragile vessels as they possess.”**
(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.)
(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)
January 15.
On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom
that would have afforded better anchorage than where we had
brought up; for the vessel was not only exposed to a considerable
swell but the ground was so foul that in weighing the anchor the
following morning one of the flukes hooked a rock and broke off,
besides which the cable was much rubbed.
As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin’s
voyage by MM. Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de
vaisseau, the latter a mineralogist, an account of which is fully
detailed in De Freycinet’s and Peron’s respective accounts of
that voyage,* without their finding anything of sufficient
importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig at anchor off
Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily take
to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not
think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as
soon as we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued
to run northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles
from it. At noon our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32
seconds. The coast is formed by sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from
one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, here and there
sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite bare: behind this
frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen on which
the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky for
two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three
o’clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to
be Captain Baudin’s Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast
to the northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the
morning, in that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation;
there appeared to be several ridges behind the coast dunes, but
they were all equally unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island
was not distinctly made out but the two small rocky lumps on the
bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet mentions, were seen and
thought to be very remarkable. At seven o’clock, having reached
in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and
longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore
for the night.
January 16.
And at six o’clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At
half-past ten o’clock we were so near to it as to see the beach:
at noon the latitude was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13
seconds, its longitude being 114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds,
at which time we were on the parallel of the two rocky lumps seen
the last evening. Hence we steered north on a parallel direction
with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the different
projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles,
and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four
o’clock we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to
be the north head of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were
seen, fronted by reefs, on which the sea in many parts was
breaking violently. To the southward of the point the coast hills
are rather high and principally formed of very white sand,
bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables, to
hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs
partially concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene
which was dismally triste. The country to the northward bears a
different character; the shore is very low and sandy and
continues so for some distance in the interior towards the base
of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on which the French have
placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps from our being
too close in shore, we did not discover.
(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and
Peron volume 1 page 178 et seq.)
This range extends in a North by West and South by East
direction, and appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some
trees were noticed and vegetation appeared to be more abundant
than in the space between the bare sandy point and Cape
Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south part near the shore
is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate size were
seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees
hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native
fires were seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was
there any other indication of the coast being inhabited; it is
however likely to be as populous as any other part, for the hills
in the interior, which we occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed
to be wooded, and would therefore furnish subsistence to natives
from hunting, even if the seashore failed in supplying them with
fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island Point there is a
deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef partly dry,
extending from the shore two miles.
At seven o’clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef
that nearly crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off
for the night we shortened sail and brought to the wind, then
blowing a strong squally breeze from south; but notwithstanding
this succession of bad weather, the mercury in the barometer had
ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92 inches.
January 17.
At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two
miles before it was seen. At nine o’clock it bore between
North-East and South-East, and at a quarter after nine heavy
breakers were seen in the South-East at the distance of five
miles. The weather was now fine and the wind South-South-East,
but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by haze that
the land, although not more than seven miles from our track, was
very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from
one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded
with a scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range
of hills of tabular form which are probably very high. At ten
o’clock we passed another patch of breakers at the distance of
about a mile and a half; but these appeared to have no connexion
with those seen at nine o’clock. Our soundings were between
fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance from the beach
from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to
South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29
degrees 5 minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114
degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds East; by which we found that a
current had set us during the last twenty-four hours to the
North-North-West at one mile per hour. At half-past twelve
o’clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2 North,
when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the
distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van
Keulen’s chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast.
At half-past four o’clock the masthead man was cautioned to
look out for breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he
reported some bearing North-West by North. On going to the
masthead I saw them distinctly for they were not more than four
miles off, and on looking round the horizon towards the westward,
distinctly saw the island of Frederick Houtman’s Abrolhos, which
for some time the masthead man persisted was only the shadow of
the clouds; but a small hummock being soon afterwards descried
upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my conjectures. The
group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and of small
size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the
southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations
were now made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck
when the lookout man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which
the helm was immediately put up; and when the vessel’s head was
round upon the opposite tack the following bearings were
taken:
Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and
South 75 degrees West.
Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North.
Another patch: seven miles off, South-West.
And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West.
This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it
distinctly from the masthead, and it is from their accounts that
I am induced to give it a place upon the chart. The position of
the vessel when we saw the breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53
minutes and in longitude 114 degrees 2 minutes, and from the
short interval between our obtaining sights for the chronometer
and the meridional observation at noon, the position may be
considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the bearings and
before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine
shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually
deepened to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms.
January 18.
The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at
five o’clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped
land, probably about one thousand feet high. At the northern end
of the range were four or five hills standing apart from each
other, of which, in the view we then had of them, the
northernmost was flat-topped, and the others peaked; at the south
end of the range were three other distinct hills, the centre
being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of
the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its
form.
This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and
is thus noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage.
“Entre les paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la
terre est tres haute; on y remarque deux montagnes bien
reconnoisables par leur forme qui approche de celle de la Grange,
sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la Montagne de la Table au
Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un peu au Pouce, de
l’Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises
rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres
plus au sud.”*
(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.)
We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all
the hills were flat-topped of course they were similar to the
Table Land of the Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it
in point of height.
This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in
grateful recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to
the wants and repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to
Mauritius. The summit in the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the
group of hills at the north end were named Menai Hills, and the
three at the south end of the range were distinguished by the
name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude 28 degrees 45
minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds.
The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an
appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the
outlets of mountain-streams. The country also appeared much
better wooded than in other parts, and as large smokes were seen
in the valleys the place most likely at the time of our passing
frequented by natives.
Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a
patch of bare sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not
so sandy as it is more to the south. At ten o’clock a very thick
haze spread over the land and so enveloped it that nothing could
be distinguished. At noon, the brig being in 28 degrees 25
minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7 minutes 0 seconds
East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that the coast
had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts
cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand.
In the interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is
probably the Mount Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends
here in a North by West direction.
The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast
has been distinguished by the name of Vlaming’s ship, The
Geelvink, since she was the first vessel that passed them (Anno
1697). Captain Hamelin in the Naturaliste also passed within
them, imagining that he perceived them to the eastward, but what
he saw must have been the summit of Moresby’s Flat-topped
Range.*
(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he
says: “quelques personnes n’osent assurer que nous ayons vu les
Abrolhos; d’autres, et je suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que
nous avons pris pour ce groupe d’iles est une portion du
Continent.” Freycinet page 180.)
The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest
Island and the Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature,
mixed sometimes with shelly sand, and were generally coarser as
we approached the shore. In some parts, particularly near Cape
Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the bottom appeared to be a bed
of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not larger than a pin’s
head. Off Moresby’s Flat-topped Range the bottom is of a soft
dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would afford
good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades
this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in
other parts, which might have been occasioned either by the
Abrolhos bank’s breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation
of the wind, for it was comparatively light to what it had been
since our leaving Rottnest Island.
A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this
coast in latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then
commences and extends for eight miles to the Red Point of
Vlaming; behind which is a bight, called by the French Gantheaume
Bay; in the south part of which there appeared a small opening.
This bay did not seem to be so well calculated for taking shelter
in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen’s chart indicates; since
it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from which
quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky;
the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish
hue, but no trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a
sandy beach; the depth of the bight is probably five or six
miles. The cliffs of Red Point partake of a reddish tinge and
appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal strata. In the centre
and about halfway between the base and summit of the cliffs is a
remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at a
distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks
on its face took our attention and resembled characters of a very
large size, as if they had been painted for the purpose of
attracting the attention of vessels passing by; but a closer
examination with the telescope prove them to be only the shadows
of the projecting parts of the surface.
At half-past seven o’clock we hauled off for the night and,
standing off and on, sounded in between thirty-three and
thirty-five fathoms.
January 19.
At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to
East-South-East but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it
was very indistinctly seen; at noon a partial clearing away of
the haze exposed to our view a long range of high and precipitous
cliffs, the base of which was washed by the sea, breaking upon it
with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly by us. The wind
falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore, when we
soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27
degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o’clock the depth was
forty-five fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the
rest of the day; for although the sky was beautifully clear and
serene, the atmosphere for fifteen degrees above the horizon was
enveloped in a thick hazy mist that caused an extraordinary
dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable state of the
weather we did not attempt to make it again.
January 20.
The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog’s Island
which lies in 25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached
within four miles of the shore steered to the northward parallel
to the beach, but the haze was still so great as to render the
land very indistinct. We saw enough of it however to be convinced
of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with a barrier of
rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that was
heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least
three miles.
The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the
thermometer at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees.
At one o’clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point
of Dirk Hartog’s Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze
veered as far as South-West by West, which was two points more
westerly than we had hitherto had it. At two o’clock the brig
passed round the cape and, as there was an appearance of good
shelter in the bay to the eastward of it, we hauled in and at
half-past three o’clock anchored in twelve fathoms fine gravelly
soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog’s Island (Cape
Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy
point that forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a
mile and a half from the shore.
As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of
the land the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing
over the arid and parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed
hygrometer, which had been quite damp since we left Rottnest
Island, was in ten minutes so dried as to be covered with
crystals of salt; and in this state it continued during our
stay.
Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its
summit, which we conjectured to be those on which the French had
affixed a record of their visit, as well as the more ancient one
of the Dutch navigators, Dirk Hartog and Vlaming; for they were
very conspicuously placed and appeared to be in good
preservation.
We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was
surrounded by sharks, which at once impressed us with the
propriety of Dampier’s nomenclature. One that was caught measured
eleven feet in length but the greater number were not more than
three or four feet long. They were very voracious and scared away
large quantities of fish, of which, however, our people during
the evening caught a good supply.
January 21.
The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager
steps ascended the rocky face of the hill to examine the
interesting memorials that were affixed to the post; but found to
our great mortification that they had been removed; the only
vestige that remained was the nails by which they had been
secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently
made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest
Island; it appeared to have been broken down; the other was still
erect and seemed to have been either the heel of a ship’s
royal-mast or part of a studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a
flag had been fastened by nails. A careful search was made all
round but, as no signs of the Dutch plate or of the more recent
French inscription were seen, it was conjectured that they had
been removed by the natives; but since our return to England I
have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of the
Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De
Freycinet upon his return from his late voyage round the world.
After this disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst
Mr. Cunningham botanised along the summit of the ridge; and
before he rejoined us we had been fortunate enough to find two
very fine turtles, and a large quantity of turtle-eggs. The
animals had been left by the tide in holes of the rocks, from
which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our
absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with
the hook and line, having caught about five or six dozen
snappers, besides some of the genus tetradon.
This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring
more turtles from the beach induced me to remain here a few days
to perform some trifling repairs that could not be effected at
sea. We were also prevented from moving, from the unfavourable
state of the weather; for it was blowing a gale of wind all the
time we remained; but as our people were living upon fresh food
the time was not considered as lost.
January 22.
The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could
not convey them all on board forty were left on shore upon their
backs for the night: upon landing the next morning they were all
found dead, having killed themselves by their exertions to
escape, and from their exposure to the heat of the sun which was
so great during the day that I did not send any of the people on
shore. We found, however, no difficulty in procuring more, some
of which weighed four hundredweight.
The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with
shell-fish, of which the principal sorts were species of trochus,
chama, conus, voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and
patella; among the latter was the large one of King George’s
Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of the cape we found
varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were observed in
the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor plentiful.
Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about four
feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly
yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of
the hair species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the
rocks, probably of the same description that Dampier found in the
maw of the shark;* and also what was found by the French on Faure
Island, which M. Peron supposed to be an herbivorous animal and
described as a dugong.**
(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.)
(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De
Freycinet page 201.)
January 24.
On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a
memorial of our visit; an inscription was carved upon a small
piece of wood in the back of which was deposited another
memorandum written upon vellum; the wood was of the size of the
sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was fixed, and near
it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was accomplished
the party walked for some distance along the beach to the
south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or
three whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of
putrefied flesh was also seen, about two or three feet long, one
side of which was covered with red hair, it was however too far
gone to ascertain to what animal it belonged.
On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was
mortifying to find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an
incredible quantity, particularly of our biscuit and flour. In
one of the casks of the latter more than two-thirds of its
contents was deficient. The biscuit was completely drilled
through and the greater part would not have been thought fit to
eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still however
hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of
the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I
now found would of necessity be at least four or five weeks
before the time I had fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As
it would take up a great portion of the time we had now left to
make a more extensive examination of Shark’s Bay than what the
French have already performed, and would entirely prevent my
going upon the north-west coast again; it was determined that we
should not delay here, but pass on and resume our examination of
the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay. The only
part of Shark’s Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to
require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay
immediately opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but
from the very intricate and shoal nature of its approach it is
very doubtful whether even a sight of the land in that direction
could be procured.
The rocks of Dirk Hartog’s Island are of a very remarkable
formation, consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in
small circular kernels by a calcareous cement in which some
shells were found embedded. The geological character of this rock
is more fully treated upon in the Appendix by my friend Dr.
Fitton.
“Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at
this time much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a
tolerably rich harvest. In his collection were the following
plants, which were originally brought to Europe by Dampier;
namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.; Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.;
solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without fructification
(Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate
melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus
(teretifolius, Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed
acacia (Acacia ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):”…”many were
the wrecks of most interesting plants, and especially those of
soft herbaceous duration, which had some time since fallen a
sacrifice to the apparent long-protracted drought of the season;
but it was impossible, amidst the sad languor of vegetation, not
to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit of an undescribed
species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham manuscript) which
formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with ripe fruit.
We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or
otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the
edge of the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very
distinct kinds, each exceeding five feet in length; the one black
with a yellow belly, the other green and black, but they quickly
escaped into holes, leaving a serpentine impression of their
bodies upon the sand. These marks were seen and remarked near the
edge of all the holes, which were very numerous upon the surface
of the island, before I discovered that they were the tracks of
reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these animals are
very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of
loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those
nests of which frequent mention has been already made: I examined
and found it built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very
strongly constructed of long sticks; it was about five feet high
and exceeded four feet in diameter, with a very slight cavity
above; and seemed to have been very recently inhabited. The rocks
that formed its base were ornamented with a prostrate capparis,
or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis, Cunningham
manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my
walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the
seeds of a small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled
across the down without reaching a single bush or rock large
enough to conceal itself as far as the eye could discern it, so
bare and destitute of vegetation are these arid, sandy plains.”*
The heat of the weather was so great as not to allow of any
communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak and
eight o’clock. Mr. Cunningham’s visits were therefore necessarily
much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to
take to prevent the people from being exposed to the very great
heat of the sun, which on shore must have been at least twenty
degrees more powerful than on board, where the thermometer ranged
between 71 1/2 degrees at midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at
noon. The barometer ranged between 29.76 and 29.99 inches, and
stood highest when the wind was to the eastward of south, with
which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the air
consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea.
(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.)
As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog’s Road
has everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of
fresh water which, according to the French, was not found in any
part of Shark’s Bay; the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear
of rocks. There is also an abundance of fish and turtle, and of
the latter a ship might embark forty or fifty every day, for they
are very sluggish and make no effort to escape, perhaps from
knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over the rocky
barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish we
caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called
by the French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people
could not be persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly
upon it. There are some species of this genus that are poisonous
but many are of delicious flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede
in a paper in the Annal. du Museum d’Histoire Naturelle (tome 4
page 203) as le Tetrodon argente (Tetrodon argenteus).
January 26.
On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and
Bernier’s Islands; nothing was seen of the reef that lies in
mid-channel on the south side of Dorre Island: a rippling was
noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South direction from the
masthead at twenty minutes before one o’clock but, if the
position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed
it long before that time. At six o’clock Kok’s Island, the small
rocky islet that lies off the north end of Bernier’s Island, bore
North 83 degrees East, distant seven miles.
January 27.
The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the
North-East and at half-past eight o’clock we resumed our course
and passed Cape Cuvier, a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that
presents a precipitous face to the sea. The coast thence takes a
North by East direction; it is low and sandy and fronted by a
sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by projecting rocky points;
those parts where patches of bare sand were noticed are marked
upon the chart.
At one o’clock we were near a low sandy projection round which
the coast extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay.
This projection was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar,
Bart., the late Governor of the Mauritius.
Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a
projection which, at Mr. Cunningham’s request, was called after
Mr. William Anderson of the apothecaries’ garden at Chelsea. The
coast to the northward of Point Anderson is higher than to the
southward and falls back to the North-East, but was very
imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze that enveloped it.
At a quarter before seven o’clock we hauled to the wind for the
night with a fresh gale from the southward.
January 28.
The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear;
but towards noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset
was so thick as entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as
low as 29.76 inches and, although the thermometer was at 79
degrees and the sun powerful, yet the atmosphere was so charged
with moisture that the decks and everything out of the immediate
influence of the sun were quite damp. This extraordinary and
constant humidity appeared only to occupy the atmosphere for the
sky was always beautifully clear and serene.
During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with
a high topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in
shifting the main topsail which had split during the night, we
stood off until three o’clock before we tacked towards the
shore.
January 29.
At eight o’clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23
seconds, the land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees
East at the distance of five or six leagues: by its outline
which, from the glare of the sun was the only part at all
discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height, very level, and
offering no particular mark that could be set with any chance of
recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason
to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by
former navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the
southernmost point of the high land Point Cloates.
(*Footnote. See volume 1.)
At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds,
having experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north
since yesterday at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming’s Head,
bore North-East by East 1/2 East and the south extreme South 7
degrees West; and in the bearing of between South 32 degrees to
82 degrees East the land is higher than in other parts and
declines very gradually towards the extreme.
As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend
the whole length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach:
the land is of moderate height but the summit is rather more
rugged than that to the southward where the outline is perfectly
level. At half-past three o’clock Vlaming Head bore south six
miles and three quarters off: at four o’clock the latitude, by
the moon’s meridional altitude, was found to be 21 degrees 38
minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the
chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2
minutes 16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first
voyage was 114 degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two,
114 degrees 2 minutes 2 seconds, may therefore be considered its
true situation.
From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West
Cape agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was
induced to think that there might be some land more to the
northward that the French saw and took for the cape; for they
have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7 seconds South, which is
nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain Horsburgh, in the
supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen by the San
Antonio in 1818, called Piddington’s Islands, that are said to
lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering
seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation,
without seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my
mind that the French must have been deceived and that
Piddington’s Islands are some of the low, sandy islets to the
eastward of Muiron Island.
January 30.
Having steered through the night on a north-east course,
Barrow’s Island came in sight the next morning, when it was about
five leagues off; at eight o’clock it bore between South 27 East
and North 87 degrees East. From noon to three p.m. we had calm,
dull, and cloudy weather; and although the thermometer did not
range higher than 87 degrees, the heat was extremely oppressive,
and occasioned the death of three of our turtles. At three
o’clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled us to
steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing
which we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have
laid down as the westernmost island of that group. There is
certainly no land to the westward of Trimouille Island; and the
error can only be accounted for by Captain Baudin’s having seen
the latter at two different periods; indeed this conjecture is in
some measure proved, since there is a considerable reef running
off the north-west end of that island, which in the French chart
is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen
by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and
observed the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second
island.
After steering a north course until seven o’clock and
deepening the water to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled
round the north end of the Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m.
steered East; but at two o’clock, having decreased the depth from
seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we steered off to the northward
until daylight, and then to the East-South-East, in order to
anchor in the Mermaid’s Strait to the eastward of Malus Island,
to take some stones on board as ballast, for the brig was so very
light and leewardly that it would have been running a great risk
to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were
disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and
a severe thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West,
during which the barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale
then veered gradually round to the North-West, and obliged us to
make sail off the coast, and by the time it moderated we were so
far to leeward of Dampier’s Archipelago that I was constrained to
alter my plan and give up the idea of taking ballast on board. I
therefore determined upon making Rowley’s Shoals, for the purpose
of fixing their position with greater correctness, and examining
the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque, which we were obliged
to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this voyage.
1822. February 4.
The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which
day we passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the
westernmost) Shoal; which we now found to extend nearly four
miles more to the southward than had been suspected in 1818, at
which period we steered round its north end.
A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end
of the reef about ten miles from the vessel’s track, and Mr. Roe,
from the masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did
not appear to be so steep as the western side.
From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good
Hope, but having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17
degrees 42 minutes 51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32
minutes 4 seconds, without seeing any signs of it for ten miles
on either side of our course, we hauled to the wind for the night
and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms speckled sand
and broken shells.
February 5.
At seven o’clock the following morning we were steering east
when broken water was reported bearing from East to
East-South-East, but it turned out to be a rippling which we
passed through. These ripplings have been frequently noticed in
the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very little affected
by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we were by
observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119
degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and
twenty fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and
stones; and at twenty miles farther to the eastward sounded again
on the same depth.
February 6.
At eight o’clock the next morning, having steered through the
night North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken
shells, and large stones.
February 8.
On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East
and soon afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the
distance of a mile and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we
saw from the masthead a line of strong tide-ripplings, extending
from the point in a North-West by West direction; within which we
at first attempted to pass but, finding that they were connected
to the point, hauled up to steer through them where they seemed
to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise was
terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst
the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to
make me fear for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would
perhaps have been swamped; for although the sea was in other
parts quite smooth and the wind light, yet the water broke over
the bows and strained the brig considerably.
We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying
five miles from the shore over a space which, at our last visit,
appeared to be occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then
probably deceived by tide-ripplings.
It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the
point, where Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine
fathoms clear sandy ground; but upon rounding the projection, the
wind suddenly fell and, after a light squall from South-West we
had a dead calm; the depth was thirty fathoms coral bottom and
therefore not safe to anchor upon; this was unfortunate for the
sudden defection of the wind prevented our hauling into the bay
out of the tide, which was evidently running with considerable
rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of
preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands
through which we could not discover any outlet, and which were so
crowded that in the dangerous predicament in which we found
ourselves placed they bore a truly awful and terrific appearance.
At this time I was at my usual post, the masthead, directing the
steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was drifting forward by a
rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about a quarter of a
mile off, that were not more than two feet above the water’s
edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must
strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction
that we could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our
path unless a breeze should spring up, of which there was not the
slightest appearance or probability.
Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks
without accident and, after carrying us about half a mile
farther, changed its direction to south-east and drifted us
towards a narrow strait separating two rocky islands, in the
centre of which was a large insulated rock that seemed to divide
the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead to tow,
but we could not succeed in getting the vessel’s head round. As
she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and
several islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from
her course. The voices of natives were now heard and soon
afterwards some were seen on either side of the strait, hallooing
and waving their arms; we were so near to one party that they
might have thrown their spears on board; they had a dog with them
which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this time we were
flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us quite
giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe
the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest
part of the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock
which it appeared to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was
more than probable that the stream it divided would carry us
broadside upon it, when the consequences would have been truly
dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past the rock at
the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined by
its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment,
however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a
sudden breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails,
impelled the vessel forward for three or four yards: this was
enough, but only just sufficient, for the rudder was not more
than six yards from the rock. No sooner had we passed this
frightful danger than the breeze fell again and was succeeded by
a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on with a
gradually decreasing strength until one o’clock, when we felt
very little effect from it.
From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque
appeared to trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the
bearing of South-West; there was however some land more to the
southward that had the appearance of being an island; it was
afterwards found to be a projection, forming the east head of a
bay, and was subsequently called after my friend Mr. Cunningham,
to whose indefatigable zeal the scientific world is considerably
indebted for the very extensive and valuable botanical collection
that has been formed upon this voyage.
We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig
continued to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty
to twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined
what course to pursue in order to preserve the situation which we
had so unexpectedly reached, and to prevent the ebb-tide from
carrying us back through the strait: the bare idea of this
impending danger reconciled me to determine upon sacrificing an
anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next to
impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just,
however, as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up
from the westward and at once put an end to our fears and
anxieties; all sail was made towards Point Cunningham beyond
which no land was visible; but the tide being adverse and the
evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to the north-west
of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven miles and
a half.
February 9.
The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr.
Roe to examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville
in the meantime sounded about the bay between the brig and the
western shore and found very good anchorage in all parts: at
about one mile to the westward of our situation the bottom was of
mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: the land appeared a good
deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel the coast seemed
to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may perhaps afford
good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of the
bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and
being studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed
walking along the beach close to the low water mark, probably in
search of shell-fish; some of them were children, and perhaps the
others were women, except two or three who carried spears; a dog
was trotting along the beach behind them.
After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were
burnt every half hour for Mr. Roe’s guidance, and before midnight
the boat came alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good
anchorage round the point; and where he landed at Point
Cunningham there was plenty of fresh water; but he saw nothing
like land to the South-East; the coast trended from Point
Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The
heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence
of the sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point
Cunningham Mr. Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10
degrees. At this place he obtained an indifferent meridian
altitude which placed it in 16 degrees 40 minutes 18 seconds
South.
In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him,
botanised with success. The traces of natives, dogs,
turtle-bones, and broken shells, were found strewed about; and
several fireplaces were noticed that had very recently been used;
a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks into the sea, and
at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet water. Near
the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been
chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets.
The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature;
and the rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red
colour, the other whitish, and harder. After leaving Point
Cunningham they pulled round the rocks, which extended for some
distance off the point, and then entered a bay, all over which
they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed the south
extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they
landed at a bright red, cliffy point.
At half-past five o’clock they re-embarked on their return
and, although the tide was in their favour, were six hours before
they reached the vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the
distance to be nearly twenty miles, and by the survey
subsequently made it was found to be seventeen.
February 11.
We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had
some difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the
water upon the sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were
obliged to anchor until the tide rose high enough to permit our
crossing it. At two o’clock we again got underweigh and crossed
the bank, when the wind falling calm we anchored with Point
Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a half
miles.
February 12.
The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some
bearings; the boat left the brig at half-past three o’clock but
did not succeed in reaching the land before the sun rose; at
which time the horizon, from being clearer, would have presented
a more distinct view of distant objects. The group of islands to
the eastward was observed to extend no farther to the southward
than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and beyond this was an
open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing was taken
was on the north-west trend of the point.
On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one
of the boat’s crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in
looking round, heard the voices of natives among the trees about
thirty yards off; but as they could not see them they very
properly descended, and carried on their operations in the
vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two or three hours
afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. The
foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the
high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the
natives had been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The
gentlemen brought off a few shells and some insects, among which
was a beautiful sphynx; besides which one of the boat’s crew
caught a species of vampyrus, apparently similar to the flying
fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was not a great variety; a
chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the trochus
(caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog’s Island; but at one of the
fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have
served the purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long
and ten inches in diameter.
The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier
thought that shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have
completed our water at this point, but from the place appearing
to be populous and, as the vessel could not be anchored
sufficiently near the shore to have protected the boat’s crews,
it was feared that our work might be impeded by the natives.
The boat returned at ten o’clock while we were getting
underweigh; but the wind being at South-East it was one o’clock
before we weathered Point Cunningham, when the tide was urging us
forward rapidly. In steering round the point we found ourselves
passing through some light coloured water and, before we could
extricate the brig, were in three and a half fathoms; the anchor
was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the assistance of the
sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained whilst the
whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the shoalest
part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again
weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point
Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled
sand and stones.
In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a
half from the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which
was called at Mr. Cunningham’s wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay
in which we anchored, Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right
Reverend the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham
found a new species of velleia (of the natural order
Goodenoviae).
We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness
of the weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85
and 89 degrees, and when the breeze was light or the weather calm
the air was insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very
much, but happily without any very serious consequences.
In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen
sitting in the shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head,
attentively watching us; but upon being joined by three others,
who came towards them from Point Cunningham, got up and walked
away. We have yet to learn how far these people may be confided
in, for we were not at a very great distance from Hanover Bay
where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst them
unarmed.
February 13.
We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the
following morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from
south-east, the only direction from which we experienced any
wind; the breeze generally blew strong at night, whilst during
the day it was light, or nearly calm; so that during the night we
were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was at all
suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or
entirely prevented from weighing.
Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell
calm and the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over
rocky ground, carried us close to a reef of dry rocks to the
northward of Foul Point without our being able to avoid it. At a
little before five o’clock the flood-tide was nearly expended and
obliged us to drop the chain-cabled anchor at the distance of
three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of rotten
yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but
from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground
there was reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently
great fears were entertained for the safety of our anchor.
Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern
head of which bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the
loss and perplexity we met with in it, was afterwards called
Disaster Bay, and its south extreme, off which is a small rocky
island, was named Repulse Point.
During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which
proved useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the
land to the south-eastward, in which direction nothing had
previously been seen; it appeared to be very low and level, and
similar to the character of the coast on the southward of Cape
Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared off and the appearance
of the land gradually sank below the horizon we were instantly
relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced during the
day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91
degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to
120 degrees.
Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they
were walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon
disappeared among the trees and bushes which here grow close down
to the waterside; they were armed with spears and appeared to be
watching our movements; for they moved along in the direction of
our course and did not afterwards make their appearance during
the evening.
February 14.
The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light
breeze but, at noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could
not be got underweigh, either with safety or utility, the boats
were despatched in different directions to improve our knowledge
of the place.
At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view,
that had not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry
at low tide for some extent, it is also shoal some distance to
the northward, as our boat had only four feet in passing over it.
In the afternoon, as there was every appearance of fine weather
and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham
set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, in order to make what
observations they could upon the further trend of the land; but
no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up and
freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was
no chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of
recovering it, we were obliged to return to our former anchorage
in Goodenough Bay; but, owing to the tide being contrary, the
brig did not reach it until nearly sunset. Our alarm and
anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the safety of Mr.
Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been
hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the
boat was too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark
signal guns were fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to
guide its return.
Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at
ten o’clock the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed
in reaching Repulse Point but obtained some useful information as
to the trend of the land round the point, which still appeared to
extend to the southward; they had not been able to land, but had
encountered much danger from the small size of the boat, which
shipped a great deal of water, so that by the time it arrived
they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. They had
only observed our signals for a few minutes before their arrival;
for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires were
so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the
shore that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon
after they arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during
the greater part of the night.
February 15.
The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled.
In the afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search
of our lost anchor but returned at night without success; for the
tide was so strong that the buoy did not watch. The next morning
it was again intended to resume the search, but the weather
clouded in and threatened to be so bad that all further attempts
were abandoned.
This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor
left, made me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving
up for the present the examination of this interesting place; and
as we wanted both wood and water, which we had found no
opportunity of obtaining here on account of the tempestuous state
of the weather, it was purposed we should go to Port George the
Fourth, which place would afford both security for the vessel and
facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also be
made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time
in the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and
tracing the continuation of the mainland behind the islands that
form the south-east coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew
nothing. After doing this I hoped to be able to continue the
examination of the deep bay behind Montgomery’s Islands, and
connect that part with the gulf or strait behind the Buccaneer’s
Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of anchors made
all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done
without very fine weather, of which there was at present
unfortunately no appearance.
But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our
provisions were very much reduced in quantity, and that we had
not more than enough to last, upon a full allowance, for the
voyage to Port Jackson; the hope however of procuring more
information of this part of the coast was so inviting that I did
not despair of effecting something in a fortnight worth the
delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten
weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our
departure for ten or twelve days without much risk.
February 16.
Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose
any time; but from various delays of calm weather and adverse
tides could not succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th.
It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through
which we entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig
had been drifted before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from
danger, we directed our course to it.
February 17.
And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner
entrance, during which we had once nearly struck on a reef of
rocks, found ourselves at daylight drifting through it with a
rapid ebb-tide without a breath of wind. The tide however lasted
long enough to carry us out, and when the flood commenced, which
would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze sprang up from
the westward and very soon carried us clear of the influence of
the tide.
With respect to the opening we had now left there were many
conflicting opinions among us, but I have every reason to think
that the land from Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island
and that there is also a communication between Cygnet and
Collier’s Bays, behind the islands of the Archipelago, where it
is also probable there is an opening trending to the south-east.
The great rise and fall of the tides in the neighbourhood of
Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; and the
only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the
water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be
caused by the numerous banks and channels existing there, and
which, of themselves alone, are indicative of the opening being
something more than a mere bay.
As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in
commotion; heavy dense clouds were collected, from which we had
thunder and lightning. At seven o’clock the appearance was more
threatening and, as a squall was evidently approaching, the sails
were taken in and preparation made to meet it: soon after eight
o’clock it passed rapidly over and brought a strong gust of wind,
before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing most
tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night
passed without any repetition of it; we had however run five
miles to leeward: had we been obliged to do this last night when
underway in Cygnet Bay, or been drifted back this evening by the
ebb-tide, we should have been very dangerously placed, from being
surrounded by islands and blinded by the darkness of the night.
Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no way affected,
but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the
afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees.
February 18.
During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and
experienced a current setting in the direction of North 52
degrees West one mile per hour. At eight o’clock the next morning
(18th) Adele Island was seen; and in the afternoon we passed at a
mile and a half from the western side of the reef which surrounds
it. This island is low and sandy and covered with small bushes;
it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand extends for
five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from its
north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more
extensive, and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and
a half, in a north-west direction from its north end, are two dry
sandbanks which are probably covered at high-water.
Light-coloured water extended for three miles to the westward and
for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the water is probably
deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered over the
tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with forty-five
fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very
little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally
broke upon them.
We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night
made short trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry
during the afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and
when exposed to the sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards
sunset large flights of boobies, terns, and other sea-birds
passed by, flying towards the islands. One or two stopped to
notice us and flew round the brig several times.
February 19.
The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had
lightning in the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the
weather clouded in; and, from the increasing dampness of the
atmosphere, indicated rain.
At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and
7 minutes 1 second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind
was from the southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of
birds were about the vessel, preying upon small fish swimming
among the seaweed, of which we passed a great quantity. As the
evening approached the weather clouded in and threatened us with
another squall from the eastward. The thermometer stood at 88
degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour before
sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon,
began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid
lightning: all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered,
were furled just in time to avoid any bad effects from the
squall, which commenced with a strong gust from East-South-East
and East; it lasted about an hour, during the latter part of
which we had very heavy rain. At eight o’clock the wind fell to a
calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north to east and
south-east.
February 20.
At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of
heavy threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my
steering to the westward to await the issue of this weather, so
unfavourable for our doing any good upon the coast, as well as
increasing the danger of navigating among reefs and islands where
the tides were so strong. The next morning at daylight we had a
squall with rain and wind from the eastward after which a fresh
breeze set in from the same quarter: as this weather appeared
likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon leaving the
coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson.
February 21 to 24.
From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between
north and south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence
of the damp, unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our
course was held to the northward of Rowley’s Shoals which, upon
passing, we found a strong current setting towards them at the
rate of one mile an hour. This indraught increases the danger of
navigating near this part but I do not recollect having
experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The current,
therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and
probably caused by the variable state of the wind.
1822. February 24 to March 3.
Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light
and variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent
from the eastward than from any other point of the compass, I
became reconciled to the step I had taken of leaving the coast,
since it would not have been possible to have reached Port George
the Fourth to effect any good.
The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the
weather was consequently extremely oppressive and sultry.
March 3 to 11.
On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes
18 seconds and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a
breeze sprang up from the South-east and carried us within the
influence of the trade, which blew steadily between
South-South-east and South by East and advanced us on our passage
but carried us considerably to the westward. On this course we
were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores (Scomber thynnus,
Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured more than
twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten pounds:
The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the
fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The
atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade
we had lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we
were within its limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a
dark brown colour, hovered about us and were our daily
companions, particularly the latter which preyed upon the small
fish that were pursued by the albicores.
March 11 to 14.
From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval
was supplied by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which
enabled us to make up for the ground we had lost by its having
been so much from the southward. After this we had variable
breezes between South and East-South-East but the current, which
before had been setting us to the north-west, now set to the
north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the
south-westerly swell.
On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101
degrees 1 minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning
but as yet neither albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their
appearance. During the short cessation of the trade the
atmosphere was very dry until the south-easterly winds returned,
when it became more humid; but as we approached the southern
limit of this South-East wind, which may be considered to bear
more of the character of a periodical wind than the trade, the
atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32
degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it
veered to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had
north-easterly winds and fine weather of which we made good
use.
The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was
flying about the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which
is a remarkable occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird
before so far without the tropic; but here was one nearly five
hundred miles to the southward of it, and at least three hundred
leagues from the nearest land; an albatross (Diomedea exulans,
Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more than nine feet nine
inches across the tips of the wings.
February 25.
On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the
casks so much damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen
tons we had only nine on board, but as this was thought to be
sufficient for our voyage the daily issue was not reduced.
March 28.
On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a
considerable reduction in the allowance.
April 13.
On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen’s Land
came in sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass
Strait by the passage between King’s and Hunter’s Islands. Off
Cape Howe we boarded a trading brig belonging to Port Jackson
bound to Van Diemen’s Land, from which we obtained pleasing and
satisfactory news of our friends at Sydney, as also the
gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to the rank of
commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of lieutenant.
The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances of
the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most
satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but
precludes me from the otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble
testimonial of his conduct and merits.
Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad
weather, which delayed our arrival so long that we had expended
all our bread and were reduced to a very small proportion of
water:
April 25.
We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the
25th, after an absence of 344 days.
CHAPTER 5.
The Bathurst sails for England.
Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of
Van Diemen’s Land.
King George the Third’s Sound.
Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.
Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.
Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.
1822. April 25 to September 25.
Upon an examination of the brig’s defects after our arrival at
Port Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as
to require a considerable repair; but from the difficulty of
procuring seasoned wood, so long a time elapsed before it was
effected that we were not ready for sea until the beginning of
September, when other delays of minor importance detained us
until the 25th.
At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the
survey should be completed; but as we were in want of many things
that the colony could not furnish, and as we should be detained
until the month of February before the monsoon would allow of our
going upon the coast; it was deemed most advantageous for the
public service to return without making another voyage.
Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the
intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and
calling at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to
sea than a hard gale set in from the north which induced me to
bear up and either to go round Van Diemen’s Land to the westward,
if the wind should favour such a proceeding, or, by doubling the
south end of New Zealand to make the eastern passage round Cape
Horn.
1822. October 6.
Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen’s Land on the
6th of October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the
same time, I determined upon adopting the first plan; and
therefore proceeded round the south side of the island, in doing
which I had the opportunity of verifying some observations
formerly taken by which it appeared that the coast between Storm
Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid down both
by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under
d’Entrecasteaux and Baudin.
On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many
errors in the bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect
an original error, and on this occasion a very considerable one
was detected.
When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen’s Land in the
Norfolk he obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the
sun to the south, his vessel being under the land, which made the
South-west Cape in 43 degrees 29 minutes South; but finding the
next day that his instrument was 2 minutes 40 seconds in error to
the north he assigned to the cape a position of 43 degrees 32
minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he makes some remarks
in a note upon the positions assigned to it by Captains Cook and
Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39 minutes,
in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the
South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its
position is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from
the South Cape.
(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page
179.)
All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in
error as to latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to
the coast. The subjoined are the positions now assigned to the
following places, namely:
COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE.
COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.
COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS’
SURVEY.
South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56
minutes.
Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2
minutes.
South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12
minutes.
placed too much to the southward in Captain Flinders’ chart as
well as in that of Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line
with the south-east cape on the bearing of North 56 degrees East
(the vessel’s head being to the eastward); and on this occasion
(the brig’s head being to the westward) it bore, when in the same
line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in the latter case was
9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6 degrees was
allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees sufficient.
I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came
on with the points of the land between the south-west and the
south-east capes, by which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of
the correctness of my observations and of the error into which
Captain Flinders had fallen, and which must either be attributed
to the imperfection of his instrument or to his reading off the
altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just that
difference between it and the position assigned by Captain
Furneaux, which is also confirmed by my observation, the
probability is in favour of the last conjecture.
After leaving the coast of Van Diemen’s Land we had much damp,
unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in
which the brig was occasionally much pressed.
1822. November 8-31.
And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald
Island, which is to the eastward of King George’s Sound. We were
now much in need of a place to caulk the bends, as well as to
repair some temporary damage to the rigging and complete our wood
and water. I therefore seized the opportunity of our being near
the sound and, steering into it, anchored off the sandy bay
within Seal Island and immediately commenced operations. We were
however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which not only
prevented the carpenter’s caulking, but also delayed our
watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the
anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience
than the delay.
A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the
appearance of a strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved
to be an American schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in
for the purpose of careening and cleaning the vessel’s bottom in
Oyster Harbour. The natives also made their appearance and some
of them being our old friends, immediately recognised us.
As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the
vessel to the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the
northern head of which, at the south end of the long sandy beach,
the trees were growing in abundance close to the beach: it was at
this place also that Captain Flinders obtained his wood; and
excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour it is the most
convenient place in the whole sound.
Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives,
many of them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend
Coolbun, the native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in
explaining to his companions the effect of the shot that was
fired. On one occasion, when they were on board, an immense shark
was hooked, but broke the hook and escaped, which was a great
disappointment to them, for they evidently anticipated a
luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the breeze
blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement
of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men.
On this occasion the names of several of the natives were
obtained, which have been inserted with a few additional words at
the end of the list obtained from them during our former visit.*
Our friend Jack did not make his appearance, nor did the natives
at all seem to understand for whom we were enquiring.
(*Footnote. See above.)
As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an
anchorage off the watering bay which proved a more convenient
place than under Seal Island, as it was better sheltered and
nearer to the watering-place. After riding out a heavy gale from
the westward at single anchor without any accident and as soon as
our water was completed, we again anchored for a day under Seal
Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before we succeeded
in getting out to sea.
Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to
Oyster Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had
hitherto been a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our
former visits the season was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was
equally unfortunate. The plant resembles xanthorrhoea, both in
its trunk and leaves, but bears its flower in a very different
manner; for, instead of throwing out one long flower scape, it
produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each terminated by an
oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large grove of
these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on
the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there
found the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw
a considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were
procured and brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given
in the view of King George’s Sound in Captain Flinders’ account
of the Investigator’s voyage.** In the list of the plants
collected by me upon this occasion was a splendid species of
anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and had escaped the
observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham. Living
plants of various genera were also procured: among which were
several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which
however alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the
royal gardens at Kew.
(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards
collected by Mr. Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his
employer, to my friend Mr. Brown, the original discoverer of the
tree in Captain Flinders’ voyage, and the author of the paper in
the appendix at the end of the volume relating to
it.)
(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.)
December 1 to February 9, 1823.
Having effected our departure from King George’s Sound we
proceeded on our way towards Simon’s Bay at the Cape of Good
Hope, which we reached on the 14th January after a passage of
forty-six days without encountering a gale of wind or the
occurrence of any event worth recording.
February 9 to April 23.
We left Simon’s Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching
at St. Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6
minutes West; and on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores,
one of the Azores. On the same morning we fell in with two French
men of war, a frigate and a corvette, who bore down but, upon
showing our colours, hauled their wind and resumed their course
without communicating with us. Between this and the Channel we
were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The Lizard
Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the
following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of
more than six years.
It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief
observations upon what has been effected by these voyages, and
what yet remains to be done upon the northern coasts of
Australia. Beginning with the north-eastern coast, I have been
enabled to lay down a very safe and convenient track for vessels
bound through Torres Strait, and to delineate the coastline
between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54 minutes South, and
Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a distance of
six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not
authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could
not penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that
presented themselves in this space; particularly in the
neighbourhoods of Cape Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where
the intersected and broken appearances of the hills at the back
are matters of interesting enquiry and research.
My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and
the North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the
western coast. The examination of the northern and part of the
north-western coasts, from Wessel Islands to Port George the
Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and ninety miles, has been
carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every opening has been
explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require
examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait,
and one of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge
Gulf, trending in to the south-east: otherways, the coast
comprised within these limits has been sufficiently examined for
all the purposes of navigation.
The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island,
containing two hundred and twenty miles, has also been
sufficiently explored; but between the latter island and Port
George the Fourth, a distance of five hundred and ten miles, it
yet remains almost unknown. The land that is laid down is nothing
more than an archipelago of islands fronting the mainland, the
situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of these
islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that
and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who
merely occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present
however this is conjecture; but the space is of considerable
extent and, if there is an opening into the interior of New
Holland, it is in the vicinity of this part. Off the Buccaneer’s
Archipelago the tides are strong and rise to the height of
thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these islands, which
we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other
circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings
of importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be
a communication at this part with the interior for a considerable
distance from the coast.
The examination of the western coast was performed during an
almost continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of
making any very careful observation upon its shores. There can
however be very little more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend
the difficulty of landing is too great ever to expect to gain
much information; for it is only in Shark’s Bay that a vessel can
anchor with safety.
With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been
procured upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the
small size of the vessel and our constant professional duties
prevented my extending them. Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds
were very numerous but the operation of skinning and preserving
them would have taken up more time than could be afforded. A few
insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens of the
geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things
obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of
plants formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession
of Mr. Aiton, of the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which
establishment it would seem that they were solely procured. It
was in fact the only department of natural history in which any
pains were taken and for which every assistance was rendered. A
small herbarium was however collected by me, containing nearly
five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected
friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments
in the field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be
hoped however that the few subjects offered to the scientific
world in the appendix, through the kindness of my friends, will
not be thought uninteresting or unimportant; and that they will
serve to show how very desirable it is to increase the
comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this extensive
country, which in this respect might still with propriety retain
its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA.
Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were
received at the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M.
Ship Tamar who was despatched by the government in the early part
of last year (1824) to take possession of Arnhem’s Land, upon the
north coast of the continent, and to form an establishment upon
the most eligible spot that could be found for a mercantile
depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the following
particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S. Roe,
my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant
of the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which,
as the sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be
deemed irrelevant or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by
Captain Bremer was discovered during the early part of the said
voyage.*
(*Footnote. See volume 1.)
The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824;
when every facility was rendered by the colonial government to
further the object in view. The expedition sailed thence in less
than a month with a detachment of the 3rd regiment and forty-five
convicts, in addition to the party of Royal Marines that had been
embarked before the Tamar left England. The establishment was
placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd regiment. A
merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to convey
the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig,
was also placed at the disposal of the commandant.
Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: “We
had a very favourable passage to the northward, and in less than
three weeks cleared Torres Strait by the route you recommended to
Captain Bremer, without encountering any accident. We
nevertheless saw several shoals that, in our former voyages in
the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by reason of the
greater altitude of the Tamar’s masthead affording a much more
extensive view on either side of our course.” The particulars of
these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix,
under the description of the North-East Coast, in the order in
which they occur.
Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port
Essington. Lieutenant Roe then says, “Having brought the ship to
anchor off Table Point in Port Essington, all the boats were
hoisted out and the marines landed, when, an union-jack being
fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the extremity of the point,
formal possession was taken of the north coast of Australia,
between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of Greenwich.
The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute,
upon the occasion.
“Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched
in various directions for that purpose; but after traversing many
miles of country, and coasting a great deal of the port, only one
place was discovered (the low sandy east point of entrance to
Inner Harbour) where any was to be procured, and it was then only
obtained by digging deep holes in the sand. A large Malay
encampment had recently removed from this spot, leaving their
fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of firewood to
season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were seen,
not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country
was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched
with drought, which was by no means in favour of our views.
Having buried a sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an
account of our proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed
at the expiration of two days for Apsley Strait.
(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on
the left of the picture in the view of Port Essington, volume
1.)
“Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until
the 24th, and it was not before the 26th that we brought up close
to Luxmoore Head, in St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in
a similar manner and with the same forms as at Port Essington,
and we commenced a strict search for water in every direction in
the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared so desirable and
commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance we
eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding
fresh water in its neighbourhood.
“At the expiration of five or six days a small river and
plenty of water was discovered on Melville Island abreast of
Harris Island; and an eligible situation for the intended new
settlement being discovered near it, the ships were removed
thither on the 2nd of October, and parties landed to commence
immediate operations with the axe and saw. The projection of land
fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the commandant
(Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor was
named King’s Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the
original discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley
Strait, between Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the
name of Port Cockburn, in honour of Vice Admiral Sir George
Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of the Admiralty.
(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my
friend John Harris, Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd
Regiment, who has served so long and so faithfully in various
offices under the government of New South Wales.)
“All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing
Point Barlow of wood and other impediments, we were speedily
enabled to commence the erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in
length by fifty wide; to be built of the trunks of the felled
trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch ten feet wide and deep. On
the memorable 21st of October, our quarter-deck guns were landed
and mounted, the colours were hoisted for the first time, and the
work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute from itself.
“From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a
fortified village; quarters were constructed within the walls of
the fort for the accommodation of the officers belonging to the
establishment, and about thirty huts of various kinds were
erected, and thatched with rushes for the soldiers and convicts.
A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good substantial wharf ran
out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat storehouse was
finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess of
Harcourt and secured there.
“The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being
exceedingly good, gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon
produced all kinds of vegetables. In our stock we were rather
unfortunate, for of six sheep that were landed for the purpose of
breeding, five died, supposed from the effect produced by eating
some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs, ducks, and fowls seemed
however in a fair way of doing well, and had increased
considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience was
experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would
not only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would
have spared the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the
effects of a vertical sun: all difficulties and obstacles were
however met and overcome with the greatest zeal and perseverance,
and the works proceeded with such spirit and alacrity, that we
were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th of November, without
exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy of the Malays,
or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the former
people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that
would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native
made his appearance before the early part of November when, as if
by signal, a party of about eighteen on each shore communicated
with us on the same day and were very friendly, although
exceedingly suspicious and timid. They would not venture within
the line of the outer hut and always came armed, but laid aside
their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were made. On the
second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see amongst
them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in
colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like
all the rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with
soot and grease, to appear like the others, but the difference
was plainly perceptible. On perceiving that he was the object of
our conversation, a certain archness and lively expression came
over his countenance, which a native Australian would have
strained his features in vain to have produced. The natives
appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must
have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the
woods.*
(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and
during our communication with the natives a boy of the above
description was noticed among them; he was brought down upon the
shoulders of one of the Indians, in which position he is
represented in the view. See volume 1.)
“These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they
called paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on
their first appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their
goodwill by giving them more, and three were accordingly
presented to individuals among them who appeared to be in
authority. They were of course much pleased, but the next day
several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from men
employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to
understand that until these articles were restored no more would
be given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they
determined upon seizing these implements on every occasion that
presented itself; so that it was found necessary to protect our
working parties in the woods by a guard; the result of which was
that the natives threw their spears whenever resistance was
offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon the
aggressors.
“Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the
natives increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred
round the settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not
sufficiently to prevent about sixty of them surprising five of
the marines in a swamp cutting rushes, and throwing their spears
amongst them: their salute was immediately returned, and they
disappeared without any damage having been done on either side;
at the same minute however reports of musketry were heard at our
watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an attack
that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering
and two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at
ten yards’ distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and
our people thought that several others were wounded as they
disappeared making most strange noises, and have not been near us
since. One of the spears thrown upon the last occasion had
sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were merely scraped to
a sharp point without even one barb, and were not thrown with
anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none of
their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our
people at the distance only of a few yards.”
Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India
station and despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior
destination. The settlement was left in a very forward state and
consisted altogether of one hundred and twenty-six individuals of
whom there were 3 or 4 women and forty-five convicts; the
remainder were composed of detachments of the 3rd regiment (the
Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the command of
Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with Commandant
Barlow.
Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at
some future time must become a place of considerable consequence
in the eastern world. The soil and climate of Melville and
Bathurst Islands are capable of growing all the valuable
productions of the East, particularly spices, and many other
equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently placed
for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions
from Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of
mercantile speculation.
Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the
honour to direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be
examined; and although, for the general purposes of navigation,
it has been quite sufficiently explored, yet there are many
spaces upon the chart left blank that would be highly interesting
to examine and really important to know. We have but a slight
knowledge also of the natural history of the continent; slight
however as it is, no country has ever produced a more
extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country
has proved richer than Australia in every branch of natural
history; and it has besides, this advantage, that as the greater
part is yet entirely unknown, so much the more does it excite the
interest of the geographer and naturalist.
The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by
degrees: want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a
task, but all these difficulties will be gradually overcome by
the indefatigable zeal of our countrymen, of whose researches in
all parts of the world the present times teem with such numerous
examples.
APPENDIX A.
Previously to entering into the detail of the following
coast-directions, in which it has been attempted, for the sake of
a more easy reference, to collect all the nautical information
under one general head, it may be proper to premise that Captain
Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* has given two very
useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be
experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as
information respecting its general navigation and particular
sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson
through Torres Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island.
From these chapters Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his
valuable work on the Hydrography etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set
of sailing-directions and other nautical information** that will
be found useful for the navigation of the southern and eastern
coasts of this continent.
(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2
book 2 chapter 11.)
(**Footnote. Horsburgh’s Indian Directory volume 2
pages 493 and 515.)
APPENDIX A. SECTION 1.
OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF
THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA
SPIT.
EAST COAST.
The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that
part of the coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea
Spit and Port Jackson, except during the summer months when winds
from that quarter prevail and often blow very hard; they are then
accompanied by heavy rains and very thick weather: generally
however from October to April they assume the character of a
sea-breeze and, excepting during their suspension by
south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the month
of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in
February and March they are very frequent.
In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will
sometimes last for two or three days, and are almost always
suddenly terminated by a gust of wind from the southward. The
most prevailing winds, during all seasons, are from the south,
and are probably oftener from the eastward of that point than
from the westward. The current always sets to the southward, and
has been found by us on several occasions to set the strongest
during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is in
the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for,
between Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it
sometimes sets in towards it. In a gale from the South-East in
the month of December 1820, it must have been setting as much to
the westward as South-West. This should be attended to,
particularly in south-easterly gales, and an offing preserved to
provide against the wind’s veering to East-South-East and East by
South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting
upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in
considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about
one mile per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the
rate of nearly three knots.
To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New
Caledonia the current sets to the North-West, which carries a
great body of water into the bight between the former and New
Guinea; but as Torres Strait offers but a very inconsiderable
outlet the stream is turned, and sets to the southward until it
gradually joins the easterly current which, from the prevalence
of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van Diemen’s
Land and Cape Horn.
The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in
few places rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting
where they are affected by local circumstances.
There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast
between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points
out Broken Bay, Port Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal
Bay for vessels not exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House
(Moreton) Bay. There are however other anchorages that might be
resorted to in the event of being thrown upon a lee shore, which
are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and Glass House
Bay.
There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point
Stevens which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port
Macquarie also affords shelter for small vessels; and on the
north side of Smoky Cape there is good shelter from southerly or
south-easterly winds: but the whole of these, excepting Broken
Bay, are only attainable by small vessels. A large ship must keep
an offing; and as the coast is not at all indented the wind must
blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to be placed in
danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a safe
and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which
fronts it.
PORT JACKSON.
The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees
51 minutes 11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds
east of Sir Thomas Brisbane’s Observatory at Sydney, or 151
degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds East of Greenwich. It is a
revolving light and may be seen at the distance of ten leagues.
The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 degrees West* and is
distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The North Head
bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by compass,
about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the
narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North
and South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so
that there is abundance of room to work in should the wind blow
out of the Port. On arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between
the North and South Heads until you are past the line of bearing
of the Outer North, and the Inner South Heads: then haul round
the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that extends for two
hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a
projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour
opens round the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either
side of the Sow and Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the
narrowest, is perhaps the best; but this, in a great measure,
depends upon the direction of the wind. The eastern channel is
the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle Ground, is the only
danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and rocks, of about
eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and fifty
in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a
very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks,
upon which the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon
the outer end of the shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the
Outer North and the Inner South Heads. The south-western tail of
the bank is chiefly of sand, with rocks scattered about it; but,
on the greater portion of it, there is twelve feet water; it
gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, which is beyond
the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the Western
Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer
towards George’s Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of
a mile above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard
bow, and the sea horizon open between the points of entrance,
until you are within the line of bearing between a small sandy
beach on the western shore and Green Point; the latter is a
grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. Then steer for
George’s Head, and gradually round it: when you have passed the
line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the sandy
beach of Watson’s Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding
Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for
perhaps one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut
Island, and, in hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that
extends off Point Bennelong for rather more than two hundred
yards into the sea.
To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the
Sow and Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of
the Inner North Head is in a line with the inner trend of the
former, bearing by compass North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer
South-South-West until you have passed Green Point, when the
course may be directed at pleasure up the harbour.
In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than
three and a quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor
within two hundred yards of the shore, for although it is bold in
most parts close to, yet there are some few straggling rocks off
the south point of Watson’s Bay, and also some round Shark’s
Island. There is good anchorage in all parts of the harbour, when
within Middle and the South Heads. There is also anchorage in
North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell sometimes
rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however,
affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and
Pigs.
SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards
wide, and will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their
moorings. The shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals
that extend off Point Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may
approach very near.
On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for
heaving down: it belongs to the government, but merchant ships
may use it, by paying a small sum according to the length of time
it is engaged. Wood and water are easily obtained from the north
shore of the port; the former may be cut close to the beach; the
latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting during a very dry
season, is always abundant.
The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight
feet, but six feet is the general rise; it is high water at
Sydney Cove at half past eight o’clock, but at the heads, it
precedes this time by a quarter of an hour. The variation of the
magnetic needle observed on shore by Lieutenant Roe:
at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East,
at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East,
at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East.
As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain
Horsburgh’s Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary
to descant further upon the nature of the winds and currents of
the east coast; since this subject has been so fully treated
upon, in the above valuable book, in the section that commences
at page 501.
Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany
Bay at page 502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to
Lieutenant Jeffreys, R.N., who commanded the hired armed
transport Kangaroo, the latter harbour has a bar stretching
across from the south to the north head, on which there is not
less than five fathoms water.
PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East
(true) from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse
at its southern entrance, and pilots are established who come off
to vessels that arrive. The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude
32 degrees 56 minutes, longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an
insulated rock: and the passage is indicated by keeping two
lights, that are placed at a distance from each other at the
wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred yards from
the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are
dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in
going in. The above information is from a plan drawn by
Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the Hydrographical Office at the
Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; since which a portion
of the labour of the convicts has been employed in building a
breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby Rock,
which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel,
and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a
south-east gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The
town was formerly called King’s Town, but it has since been
changed to that of Newcastle, and the appellation of the Coal
River has partly superseded the more legitimate name of Port
Hunter.
PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless
the wind is fair, on account of the shoals that are near its
entrance. Point Stephens is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2
minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes 45 seconds.
BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good
anchorage; the head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20
seconds. Between Black Head, and the hills called the Brothers,
are WALLIS’ Lake, in latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds,
HARRINGTON’S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 minutes, and FARQUHAR’S Lake,
in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they were discovered by
Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey in 1819;
they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of
extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and
occupy a considerable space between the coast and the
mountains.
In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the
distance of two miles and a quarter from the shore, is a
dangerous reef, on which the sea constantly breaks; it was named
by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, the MERMAID’S REEF; it is
about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears South 85 degrees
East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of the reef
is separated from the principal rock, within which there appeared
to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without the
latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the
North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting
its entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152
degrees) are not yet known, but it is supposed to be very
shoal.
PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its
entrance is about two miles and two-thirds to the
North-North-West of Tacking Point. It is a bar harbour, and, like
Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on account of the banks of
sand that project from the low north sandy point of entrance, on
which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these however serve
to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety yards
wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction
from Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped
hillock) whence the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly
a west direction to the narrow entrance opposite Pelican
Point.
Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches
across towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and
twenty yards in extent.
The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two
sunken rocks, the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North
45 degrees West (true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred
yards. When Green Mound Point and the next point to the southward
of it are in a line, you are within a few yards of the shoalest
part of the bar. After passing the bar, there are from two to
four fathoms water. Since the examination of this harbour, a
penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed to
conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky
islet, the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous
to pass. There is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms,
about half a mile outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which
gradually deepens for three miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any
part of which a vessel may anchor to await high water.
Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds
South.
Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East.
Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds
East.
High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes.
Tide rises four to five feet.
The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees
55 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30
seconds.
TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on
a second expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its
being settled, is a convenient roadstead during southerly winds:
it is situated on the north side of Smoky Cape, and affords an
anchorage in three fathoms, protected from the sea as far as
North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured from a stream
that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky Cape
is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight
feet water.
SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following
description of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders’ Terra
Australis, Introduction, cxcv.)
“On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest,
there is ten feet at low water; and within side the depth is from
two to four fathoms, in a channel near the south shore: the rest
of the bar is mostly occupied by shoals, over which boats can
scarcely pass when the tide is out. High water appeared to take
place about seven hours after the moon’s passage; at which time a
ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture in, if
severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by
its latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on
the low land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill
somewhat peaked, which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from
that direction.”
CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds,
longitude 153 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in
latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12
minutes.
THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on
which there is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and
a half to the north of a small island off Point Danger, which
lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes.
In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet
at the south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north
extremity is Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal
and only passable for boats.
MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by
Captain Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the
Brisbane, a very fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27
degrees 25 minutes latitude, abreast of the strait between
Moreton Island and Point Lookout.
(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass
House Bay, in allusion to the name given by Captain Cook to three
remarkable glass house-looking hills near Pumice-stone River; but
as Captain Cook bestowed the name of Moreton Bay upon the strait
to the south of Moreton Island, that name has a prior claim, and
is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has lately been
formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the
north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.)
(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction
cxcvi.)
WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49
minutes, was examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the
government colonial vessels; he found it to be a good port,
having in its entrance a channel of not less than three fathoms
deep; and to communicate with Hervey’s Bay, thus making an island
of the Great Sandy Peninsula.
INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude
153 degrees 23 minutes.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 2.
DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF
THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE
YORK.
NORTH-EAST COAST.
The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore
by north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and
August, the only season that I have any experience of the winds
and weather upon the north-east coast; the weather is generally
thick and cloudy, and often accompanied with showers of rain,
particularly during the two first months.
In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we
experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered
to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood
of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the
north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced
westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather.
Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady.
To the north of this point, however, the winds are always
constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the
westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they
generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the
weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the
navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last
voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so
thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead;
we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in
sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such
a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage
than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare
of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the
afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season
(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom
veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of
East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea
Spit, through Torres Strait.
The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the
beginning of May, or between the middle of August and latter end
of October; in the months of June and July, the passage is not
apparently so safe, on account of the changeable weather that may
be encountered, which to a stranger would create much anxiety,
although no real danger. Strict attention to these directions and
confidence in the chart, with a cautious lookout will, however,
neutralize all the dangers that thick weather may produce in this
navigation.
The tides and currents in this part are not of much
consequence. The rise of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to
the North-West, but at a very slow rate. In the neighbourhood of
the reefs, the stream sometimes sets at the rate of a knot or in
some cases at two knots, but for a small distance it is scarcely
perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle drain of
current to the North-West.
HERVEY’S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by
Captains Cook and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I
have nothing to offer in addition to the valuable information of
those navigators (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 113 and 117; and
Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 page 9 et seq.)
LADY ELLIOT’S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and
trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for
three-quarters of a mile from its north-east end; the island is
not more than three-quarters of a mile long, and about a quarter
of a mile broad; it is dangerous to approach at night, from being
very low. It is situated thirty miles North 53 degrees West
(magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid down in
Captain Flinders’ chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes,
and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds.
BUNKER’S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and
wooded like Lady Elliot’s Island, and lie South-East and
North-West from each other; the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a
coral reef projecting for two miles and a half to the North-East:
four miles and a half to the North-West of the north-westernmost
(or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the heavy breakers
upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. The
centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51
minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5
seconds. Off the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small
detached islet connected to it by a reef; and off the north-east
end of the 3rd island is another islet, also connected by a coral
reef.
The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league
wide, are quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a
mile of the south end of the reef off the 3rd island, without
getting bottom with ten fathoms.
RODD’S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to
the northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels
of one hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between
two sandbanks, which communicate with either shore. In hauling
round the point, steer for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point
covered with trees, keeping the centre of it in the bearing of
about South (magnetic); you will then carry first five, then six
and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the north low sandy
point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, the
extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one
mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third
of a mile from the low sandy point bearing North.
In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water,
on the south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank
projects for a mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre
of the channel, between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about
one third of a mile from the former, you will have seven, eight,
and nine fathoms water, until it bears North by East when it
shoals to five fathoms. The situation of the extremity of the low
sandy point upon Captain Flinders’ chart (East Coast sheet 3) is
in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 151
degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water takes place at eight
hours and a half after the moon’s transit.
In standing into Rodd’s Bay, the water does not shoalen until
you are in a line with the north points of Facing Island and
Bustard Bay.
There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of
the low sandy point, but it was not thought to be a durable
stream. Wood may be cut close to the beach, and embarked without
impediment.
PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has
merely confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island
(latitude 22 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes
30 seconds) which is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The
channel in, on the north side of the island, is free from danger,
but, on the south side, between it and Cape Clinton, there is an
extensive shoal on which the sea breaks heavily: it was not
ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off the south
end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The
inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the
mid-channel the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands
on the western side of the inlet are steep to, and should be
avoided, for the tide sweeps upon them. The best anchorage is in
the sandy bay round the inner trend of the cape (latitude 22
degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 44 minutes)
where both wood and water are convenient. In steering in from
sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters
of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven
fathoms, avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the
inner trend of the cape, the water will shoal to three and
three-quarter fathoms, but do not approach too near the point.
When you have opened the inlet, steer in, and, having passed the
inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern side, where you
may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure.
The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North
1/4 East by compass, from the high round island, and North by
West 1/4 West when in a line with Entrance Island.
High water appears to take place half an hour later than at
Entrance Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon’s
southing (the moon’s age being thirteen days). The tide did not
rise more than six feet, but it wanted three days to the springs.
Captain Flinders supposes the spring tides to rise not less than
fifteen feet. The variation of the compass was 9 degrees 5
minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance Island, according
to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East.
NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees
East (magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is
a low rock which, at high water, is very little above the surface
of the sea; it is very dangerous because it is in the direct
track of vessels steering towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the
observation of Captain Flinders.
In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten
miles from the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks,
but I am not aware whether they are covered: they were seen by
Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815.
Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a
hill at the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore
South 60 degrees West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant
about eight or nine miles. The variation of the compass here is
between 7 and 8 degrees East.
The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders;
the bay at the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and
not safe to anchor in, excepting during a south-east wind: the
anchorage at Number 2, inside the Pine Islets, is bad, since the
bottom is rocky; the ground is, however, clearer more to the
southward; on the whole this anchorage is not insecure, since
there is a safe passage out either on the north or south sides of
the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and water
also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders
was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it
abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the
anchorage in the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2,
the flood sets to the south, and the ebb to the north; the
maximum rate was one and a quarter knot. High water occurred at
the latter place two hours and a half before the moon’s passage;
but on the following day did not precede it more than one hour
and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on
shore at eight hours after the moon’s passage. (Vide Flinders
volume 2 page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was
thirteen days old. The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude
21 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16
minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of Number 2 is in latitude 21
degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 13
minutes.
In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5
seconds, longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain
Cook’s ship got into shoal water, and at one time had as little
as three fathoms (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 131); and the
merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, met with a sandbank
extending from the island off the point in a north-east direction
for ten miles, on one part of which she found only nine feet
water.
The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles,
and, when the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two
miles and a half, had four and three-quarter fathoms, which was
the least water that was found, but, being then high water, five
or six feet, if not more, may be deducted, to reduce it to the
proper low water sounding. There was no appearance of shoaler
water near us, and it is probable that Captain Cook’s and the
Lady Elliot’s tracks were farther off shore. The variation of the
compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes
East.
CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point
in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149
degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen
seven or eight leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30
minutes East.
The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21
degrees 6 minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky
islands; they are all abundantly wooded, particularly with pines,
which grow to a larger size than at the Percy Isles. We did not
land upon any of them; they appeared to be of bold approach, and
not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are from six to eight
hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the northern island
are much higher.
k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149
degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile
in diameter; it is of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile
off its south-east end there is a dry rocky lump.
k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52
minutes 30 seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter,
and has a considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a
half off both its north-west and south-east ends; on the latter
is a small rocky islet.
k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees
44 minutes 55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef
off its south-east and north-west ends, stretching off at least a
mile. On the south-east reef is a dry rocky islet.
THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small
islets of moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by
deep water. The variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East.
k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4
1/2, in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets
to the westward of them, were seen only at a distance.
l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in
latitude 20 degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two
islands, l 3, in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l
4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, are also high,
but we were not nearer to them than six or seven miles; l 2, in
latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees
33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which Captain Flinders
landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, “This little
island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile
long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water
took place ONE HOUR before the moon’s passage, as it had done
among the barrier reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be
the rise by the shore, and the flood came from the northward.”
The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees 17 minutes East.
m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in
latitude 20 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149
degrees 15 minutes 15 seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four
feet high: there are several islets off its south-east end, and
one off its north-west end.
SIR JAMES SMITH’S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct
islands, and perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve
miles of them. On the principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude
20 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9
minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or eight hundred feet high.
SHAW’S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149
degrees 2 minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to
the southward; it is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group
consists of several islands; it is separated from the next to the
northward by a channel five miles wide. In the centre is
PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising abruptly out of the
sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. Its latitude
is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 59
minutes 30 seconds.
The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and
appear to be better furnished with wood, and more fertile than
the southern groups, particularly on their western sides.
The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10
seconds and longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred
and eighty-four feet high, and is situated on the largest island,
which is ten miles long, and from three to nine broad: it has
several bays on either side, and off its south-eastern end are
four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky islets. The
northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the
Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of
Whitsunday Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20
degrees 0 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30
seconds, and is of bold approach: on the western side of the
island are some low islets.
REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills
rise to a great height. The extremity of the bay was not
distinctly traced, but it is probable, upon examining it, that a
fresh-water rivulet may be found; and there may be a
communication with Edgecumbe Bay.
The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by
rocks, which do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from
them. The summit of the largest island is in latitude 20 degrees
37 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30
seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 minutes East.
Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes
from the north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction
of the stream. At an anchorage off the island near the latter
cape the tide rose twelve feet, but close to the Repulse Isles,
the rise was eighteen feet. At the former place, the moon being
full, high water took place at about three-quarters past ten
o’clock; by an observation the next day at the latter, it was a
quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one and a
half knot.
WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the
Cumberland Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with
the exception of a small patch or rocks within a quarter of a
mile from Cape Conway, and a sandbank (that is probably dry, or
nearly so at low water) off Round Head, is free from danger. The
shores appear to be bold to, and the depth, in the fairway,
varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the shoal off Round
Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its extent
was not ascertained.
In steering through the strait, particularly during the
flood-tide, this shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to
the east shore; for the tide there sets across the strait; it is
about a mile and a half from Round Head, in which space the water
is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.
Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30
seconds) and Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be
good anchorage out of the strength of the tides; and to the north
of Round Head is another bay, the bottom of which is an isthmus
of about a mile wide, separating it from an inlet to the westward
of Cape Conway. This bay very probably affords good anchorage out
of the strength of the tides.
CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude
148 degrees 54 minutes, is the western limit of the south
entrance of Whitsunday Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off
to the eastward: immediately on its north side is a small shingly
beach, a few yards behind which there is a hollow, containing a
large quantity of fresh water. At a short quarter of a mile from
the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between which and the
shore there is deep water.
PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude
148 degrees 51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of
a small island that is separated from the main by a passage of
about a mile wide, but we did not ascertain whether it is
navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, clothed with
pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for that
reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it
appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west
side affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with
grass, and thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5
degrees 35 minutes East.
PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend
in for four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient
port, as it is well sheltered from the wind, and is protected
from the north-east by a group of small islands, thickly wooded.
Hence the land trends to the north-west towards Cape Gloucester;
the shore was very indistinctly seen, but seemed to be very much
indented, and to possess several bays, if not rivers; for the
land at the back is very high, and must give rise to several
mountain, if not navigable, streams.
MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14
minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55
seconds, forms a small peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as
well as from the northern extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it
is four thousand five hundred and sixty-six feet high; and the
hills around it are at least from seven hundred to a thousand
feet in height.
The greater part of the water that collects from these hills
probably empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it
may be distributed in lagoons upon the low land that separates
them.
At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range
extending without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart.
In latitude 21 degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees
36 3/4 minutes is a high-rounded summit, which is visible at the
distance of twenty leagues: between this range, which is at the
distance of from five to seven leagues from the sea, and the
coast, are several ridges gradually lowering in altitude as they
approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of Repulse Bay, this
mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track of low
land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the
height of the hills, it must be well watered.
CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took
originally for the cape, is an island of about five miles long
and two broad, separated from the true Cape Gloucester by a
strait, a mile and a half wide. The island is called Gloucester
Island; its summit at the north end is in latitude 19 degrees 57
minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds:
it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, and its summit
is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and,
although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre
and heavy appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The
cape, in latitude 20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude
148 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds, is the extremity of the
mountainous range that extends off Mount Dryander. The variation
observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.
EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of
which are very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the
bearings of some land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep;
and its greatest breadth, at the mouth, is about fourteen miles.
It affords excellent shelter; and between Middle Island (a small
rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) and Gloucester Island
there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy bottom, with
protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay farther
than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight
fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that
appeared to be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the
most distant opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must
be a rich and interesting country.
HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or
eight leagues, and has three small islets near it: it is in
latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148
degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.
CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so
high as to be visible for more than twenty leagues in clear
weather: it rises abruptly from a low projection, and forms a
long ridge of mountainous land; the north-east end of the summit
is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude
147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point separates two deep
bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, on account
of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side of
Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate
in a river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and
were judged to be composed of granite. The variation observed off
the point was 6 degrees 16 minutes East.
CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a
considerable distance into the sea: its north-east extremity is
in latitude 19 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147
degrees 23 minutes East; the mountainous ranges are at least
thirty miles in the rear, and, were it not for Mounts Upstart and
Eliot, both of which are very visible, and serve as an excellent
guide, this part of the coast would be very dangerous to
approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot be
seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship
passing this projection should not come into shoaler water than
eleven fathoms; and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount
Upstart, should be steered sufficiently to the northward to
provide against the current which sets into the bay on the
western side of the mount. On approaching the cape, if the
soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the vessel
should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel
with or to the southward of the cape.
CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds,
longitude 146 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart,
rises abruptly from a projection of low land, separating
Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity that extends under the base
of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded hill and a peak, the
latter being at the south extremity of its summit. Mount Eliot
may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, if
not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land
is low, and is probably much intersected by water.
A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four
miles to the eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that,
with the point bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship
is safe: there is a breaker near the extremity of the reef, at
about three miles from the point; to avoid which, keep the south
end of Magnetical Island well open of the north extremity of the
cape.
The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33
minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25
seconds.
CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four,
five, and six fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile
from the shore on the western side of the cape, and is left dry
at half ebb; it fronts a sandy beach that commences at a mile and
a half to the south of the cape, and extends to the southward for
nearly two miles; over this beach, two or three streams of fresh
water communicate with the sea; they take their rise from the
hills, and probably are seldom dry.
The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the
beach, a little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for
fuel is plentiful, and grows close to the beach, and may be
embarked with facility; the best place is at the north end of the
sandy beach, since the boat can be brought nearer to the shore to
protect the wooding party.
HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it
has several islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS,
the summit of which is in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5
seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 minutes 15 seconds: this group
consists of nineteen islands, one only of which is of large size,
being eight miles long and three wide; it probably affords all
the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a good supply of
wood and water.
In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore,
and six miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that
shows at low water: it appeared to be about two miles long;
between it and Number 2 is a wide channel with nine fathoms. The
Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in 1815, struck upon a reef in 18
degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from the shore; of which we
saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its position, but,
at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been covered
by the tide.
In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef,
on which the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was
not correctly ascertained, as the accident happened in the
night.
POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and
longitude 146 degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to
the eastward, under Mount Hinchinbrook.
CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land
that stretches to the northward from the base of Mount
Hinchinbrook, which is so high as to be visible for eighteen
leagues: the mount is topped with a craggy summit, seven miles in
length from north to south.
There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off
the cape, having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in
latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146
degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. The peak at the north end of Mount
Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds, and
longitude 146 degrees 15.
BROOKE’S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they
consist of three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the
whole are surrounded by a coral reef.
From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a
North-West direction for five miles to a point, which is
terminated by a hill. Between this and Goold Island there appears
to be a navigable strait leading into Rockingham Bay.
GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill
covered with wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds,
and longitude 146 degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the
south-west point of the island is a long strip of low land, with
a sandy beach; at the eastern end of which there is a run of
water; and fuel may be cut close to the shore. High water takes
place at full and change at three quarters past ten.
ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom
there was an appearance of an opening that may probably
communicate with an inlet on the south side of Point Hillock, and
insulate the land of Mount Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage
in the bay in four and five fathoms mud, near Goold Island.
The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and
visit the ship.
FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with
a stunted vegetation.
DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit;
the south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and
longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation
observed in the offing to the North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes
East.
BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in
a straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double
Point. Three miles to the south of the southernmost island, but
nearer to the shore, is a reef of rocks which dry at low
water.
From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39
minutes 50 seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a
succession of sandy bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude
17 degrees 31 minutes, in the centre of a sandy bay, is a small
opening like a rivulet; and, on the south side of Point Cooper is
another; but neither appeared to be navigable for boats. Abreast
of Frankland’s Islands, and near the south end of a sandy bay of
six miles in extent, there is another opening like a river, that,
from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and of a
verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high
mountains to the southward, Bellenden Ker’s Range, must give rise
to a considerable stream; and it appears very probable that this
may be one of the outlets, but the most considerable is, perhaps,
that which falls into Trinity Bay round Cape Grafton.
FRANKLAND’S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which
is detached and of higher character than the others, which are
very low, and connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen
five or six leagues off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes
45 seconds.
The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards
the north has several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton
may be readily known, when seen from the southward, by appearing
like three lofty islands; the outermost is Fitzroy Island, but
the others are hills upon the main. The easternmost of the
latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two small peaks,
like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is joined
to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter
from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen
at a distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands.
There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and
Fitzroy Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage
would be on the south side of the cape. The former is exposed to
all winds between North-West and North-East. In the former case
the anchor may be dropped in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a
mile from the beach of the island. The north extremity of Cape
Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds,
longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the south-east
extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds,
longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.
FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked
summit. It affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off
a coral beach; the south-west end of which is in latitude 16
degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 56
minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island
is a small bare sandy island; and, at about seven miles
North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of extensive
shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.
On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of
which is an island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage
may be had with the cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON
and SNAPPER ISLAND, the centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees
17 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40
seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores of which were not very
distinctly seen. At the south side, and about seven miles within
the cape there is an opening that appeared to be extensive, and
the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between high
ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker’s Range.
In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145
degrees 34 minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands;
which, being very low, are dangerous to pass in the night.
The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw
none beyond Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart
are from Lieutenant Jeffrey’s account.*
(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the
northward of Green Island from the Tamar’s masthead. Roe
manuscript.)
SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern
limit of Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any
water.*
(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East
from Snapper Island is the north-west end of a shoal, extending
to the South 41 degrees East for sixteen or seventeen miles; the
Tamar anchored under it. Roe manuscript.)
The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater
distance than twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of
the barrier reefs approach the coast, and there is reason to
believe that, in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds,
longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, they are not more
than twenty miles from it. The cape has a hillock at its
extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that
renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper
Island. The shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we
had sixteen fathoms.
Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD’S RIVULET in
Weary Bay: it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet
water over it; the anchorage off it is too much exposed to be
safe. The river runs up for four or five miles, having soundings
within it from three to four fathoms, its entrance is in 15
degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.
The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and
forms a few inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high
land, particularly abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands
open of each other in a North 39 degrees East direction, and
appear to be connected by a shoal; it is however very likely that
a narrow passage may exist between them, but certainly not safe
to sail through.
Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and
great attention must be paid in navigating amongst them; but,
with a careful look out from the masthead, and a quick leadsman
in the chains, no danger need be apprehended.
Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island
there is a passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is
about half a mile in diameter, with a few rocks above water; its
centre is in 15 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the
shore, and three miles North 55 degrees West from the south west
Hope.
b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at
its north end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20
seconds: it is divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly
a mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end
of b, on the western edge of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock,
in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes 55 seconds.
ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West
direction; the north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears
due from the North-east Hope.
c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its
latitude is 15 degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the
shore.
d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end,
in latitude 15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and
the shore the passage is from three to four miles wide, and in
mid-channel the depth is seven and eight fathoms.
On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a
small opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it
was this bay that Captain Cook first examined in search of a
place to repair his ship.
On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the
entrance of Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of
irregular depth. A spit of sand was passed over with only two and
a half fathoms on it when the summit of Mount Cook bore South 66
degrees West (magnetic) and the outer extreme of Point Monkhouse
South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off shore the shoal
soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it bore
South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and
three and a half fathoms.
ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15
degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10
minutes 49 seconds,* forms a very good port for small vessels;
and, in a case of distress, might be useful for large ships, as
it proved to our celebrated navigator Captain Cook, who, it is
well known, repaired his ship there after having laid
twenty-three hours upon a coral reef.
(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at
Endeavour River was found by lunar distances, taken during my
visits to that place in 1819 and 1820, as follows:Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the
artificial horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations:
15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds.Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first
quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights,
with the sextant: 144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds.Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first
quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights,
with the sextant: 145 degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds.Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49
seconds.)
The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill,
covered with trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The
north side of the entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and
a quarter in length: at its north end a range of hills rises
abruptly, and extends for six or seven miles, when it again
suddenly terminates, and is separated from the rocky projection
of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand.
The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on
which, at high water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low
water, not more than ten feet: the channel over the bar is close
to the south side, for the sandbank extends from the low sandy
north shore to within one hundred and forty yards of the south
shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) is dry.
In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in
a line with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook)
you will be in three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity
of the low north sandy point is opened of the trend round Point
c, when you may haul a little more in, and when point d (which is
a point where the mangroves commence) bears South 33 degrees West
(magnetic) steer directly for it; this will carry you over the
deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from point c in a
North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is to
keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will
be too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in
a little to the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass
within ten yards of point d; and the best anchorage is just
within it; the vessel may be secured head and stern to trees on
the beach, with bow and stern anchors to steady her. No vessel of
a greater draught than twelve feet should enter the harbour; and
this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within her own length
of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the mangrove
point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into
the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the
south: and if this should fail, there is a good stream at the
north end of the long north sandy beach. The latter, although
very high coloured, is of wholesome quality; but in bad weather
is inconvenient to be procured on account of the surf. Water for
common purposes of cooking may be had on a sandy beach a little
without the entrance, but it is of a mineral quality, and of
brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at eight
o’clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation
of the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East.
CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds,
longitude 145 degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a
steep slope to the sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it
and Cape Flattery is a bay backed by low land, about five miles
deep; but it is exposed to the wind, unless there is anchorage
under the north-west end of Cape Bedford.
(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile
round Cape Bedford. Roe manuscript.)
CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its
extremity is high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The
summit of the cape is in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30
seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes 10 seconds.*
(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the
eastward of Point Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery,
about two miles apart from each other, situated in what was
considered to be the fair channel. Roe manuscript.)
Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West
direction, is POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the
extremity of a low sandy projection, whence the land trends West
by North 1/2 North for twelve leagues to Cape Bowen.
e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end
is twelve miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour
River, in latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude
145 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds.
TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high
water, excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the
boat, at its north end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes,
longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds: its interior is
occupied, like most others, by a shoal lagoon; it is entirely of
coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was here that Captain
Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour River, from the
entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is distant
eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a
mile wide.
THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a
group of low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a
reef, that is not quite two miles in diameter.
Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded
island, about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four
miles to the southward of it is a rocky islet.
REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three
Isles; it appeared to be about three miles long: its western
extreme is in latitude 15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude
145 degrees 26 minutes.
TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef:
the largest islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds,
and longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds.
REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a
half long: its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15
seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer
edge: it is more than four miles long, and separated from the
north end of g by a channel a mile wide.
REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the
northernmost are two rocky islands, and to the southward, on a
detached shoal, there is a bare sandy islet that is perhaps
occasionally covered by the tide: its south-westernmost extremity
and the summit of Lizard Island are in the line of bearing of
North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 degrees 53
minutes 40 seconds.
REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon
it: its sub-marine extent was not ascertained.
REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near
its western side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes
30 seconds.
m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of
Eagle Island. In Captain Cook’s rough chart there is twelve
fathoms marked between two shoals which must mean the above.
EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end
of a considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20
seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.
DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by
Captain Cook to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through
which he passed out to sea; they are high and of conical shape,
and might be seen more than five or six leagues off was it not
for the hazy weather that always exists in the neighbourhood of
the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 44 minutes
50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 seconds: the
southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude 145
degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its
peaked summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20
seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side
is an extensive reef encompassing three islets, of which two are
high and rocky: the best anchorage is on its western side under
the summit; with the high northernmost of the Direction Islands
in sight over the low land, bearing about South-East by compass:
the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy bottom. The variation
here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East.
TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the
islets are encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and
consist of six islands, all low and bushy. These islands are not
laid down with sufficient accuracy as to their relative
positions.
n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard
Island; no reef was seen to project from it; it is in the
meridian of the observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude
14 degrees 40 minutes.
o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64
degrees West from the north end of n.
p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by
a channel of a mile wide.
q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently
connected with a shoal extending from Point Lookout along the
shore to the West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64
degrees West from Point Lookout.
COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a
quarter to half a mile in extent; they are from four to six miles
North-East from Point Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely
the several dry parts of the shoal that extends from Point
Lookout to Noble Island; between them and the latter island, are
two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable that they may
be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal between the
islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained.
At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity,
the hills again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project
into the sea, and separate two bays, in each of which there is
possibly a rivulet; that to the eastward of the cape trends in
and forms a deep bight. On the western side of the hills of Cape
Bowen there is a track of low land, separating them from another
rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is in
latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46
minutes.
HOWICK’S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which
Number 1, remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in
latitude 14 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144
degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; it is nearly three miles long; the
rest are all less than half a mile in extent, excepting the
westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a half in
diameter.
The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight
fathoms: the north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the
opposite side of the strait is bold to; the anchorage is
tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, but it was not considered to
be caused by the nature of the bottom, which is of soft sand, and
free from rocks.
The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and
shoal: between 1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel
of about a mile wide: the north-east end of 1 has a reef which
extends off it for half a mile.
(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space
to the northward and eastward of Howick’s Group. Roe
manuscript.)
All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral
reef of small extent.
4 has a small islet off its west end.
5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from
them. 7 is probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a
mile on its western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality
of the low islands hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in
latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45
minutes. The position of Number 10 was not correctly
ascertained.
The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes,
and longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds.
NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at
its north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and,
when first seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock
with a double rounded top.
The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s,
lying six miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry
for a considerable extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered;
but there is a dry sandy key on u, bearing from Point Barrow,
North 32 degrees East, six miles: some rocks showed themselves
above the water off its south end.
v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to
extend for three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles;
there was, however, a space of three miles between them, where a
channel may possibly exist. The channels between t and u, and
between v and w, appeared to be clear and deep.
The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier
reefs, for the sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer
edge; there were, however, considerable spaces where no breakers
appeared, some of which, being three or four miles wide, may
possibly be as many outlets to sea.
NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is
about three miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in
crossing it we had not more water than four fathoms, and within
our course it appeared to be very shoal: there is doubtless a
channel leading to the opening; but, to the name of harbour or
port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was named Port
Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point Barrow
are two rocky islands.
(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from
half to one mile nearer the shore, than they are laid down; and
one mile and three quarters North 55 degrees East from the point
are two small patches of coral, under water; they bear North-East
and South-West from each other and are probably one tenth of a
mile apart. Roe manuscript.)
Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and
rocky, but appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places
extends for a mile and a half from the shore; in this interval
there are two or three sandy beaches, but I doubt the
practicability of landing upon them in a boat. The summit and
sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape
Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being
covered with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume
1.)
CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north,
terminates this remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9
minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50
seconds: the coast trends round it to the South-South-West and
South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is nine miles and a
half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being formed by
Flinders’ Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off Cape
Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some
rounded stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up
above the sea: there is also one of these heaps at the extremity
of the reef, outside, and within a quarter of a mile of which we
had fourteen fathoms water: there are two other similar heaps
within the outer pile, and between them there are possibly clear
passages, but they should not be attempted without great caution.
It was remarked that the breeze always freshened on passing round
this cape.
PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is
the largest, are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds,
longitude 144 degrees 26 minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded
by a reef, lying two miles and a half from the cape; between them
and the reef that extends from the cape, there is a safe and deep
passage of more than a mile wide.
The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom
are two openings, with some projecting land between them, at the
extremity of which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless
rivulets of considerable size, and take their rise from the high
land at the back of Cape Bowen.
FLINDERS’ GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are
high and rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are
three miles long. The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14
degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12
minutes 5 seconds, is visible from a distance of twelve or
thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the islands may be seen
generally at seven or eight leagues.
On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay
fronted by a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing
winds to be safe. It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship)
was wrecked in 1818.
CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144
degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the
island; it may be passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best
anchorage is under the flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile
from the shore, in ten fathoms mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20
minutes East. It is high water at full and change at a quarter
past nine.
In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in
diameter.
CLACK’S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end
of reef b, in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and
longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare
black rock, with no apparent vegetation, is a conspicuous object:
there is another rock on its north-east end. (See above.) The
reef is of circular shape, and three miles in diameter.
The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite
struck upon it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The
following marks for it were obligingly communicated to me by
Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop Satellite, who sent a boat to
examine it upon her second voyage the following year:
“In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in
mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island,
there is a small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south,
not more than a cable’s length in extent, the least water being
one fathom. The Satellite grounded on them in two fathoms, in
June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine this shoal in making the
same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be under the
following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders,
South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part
of Flinders’ Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack’s
Islands, North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South.
It is a dangerous shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be
easily avoided by steering near the low wooded island, to the
north-east of the cape, or by keeping the shore of Flinders’
Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The variation is 5
degrees 40 minutes East.”*
(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way
between, the flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders’
Group, and the centre of the low wooded island, and is nearly
joined to some shoal-water that extends for two miles from the
latter island. Roe manuscript.)
PRINCESS CHARLOTTE’S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast,
twenty-two miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low,
and at the bottom in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a
mangrove opening.
JANE’S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15
seconds and longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a
remarkable flat-topped hill at the bottom of the bay, rising
abruptly from the surrounding low land: it is about five miles
from the coast; its summit, by the angle it subtended, is about a
mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high land was seen
at the bottom of the bay.
On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and
forms a bank of about ten miles in extent, but this was not
visible for more than three or four leagues. To the north of this
no part of the interior can be seen until in latitude 13 degrees
55 minutes, when the south end of a ridge of hills commences at
about seven miles behind the beach, which it gradually approaches
until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, and is
terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low
sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth.
c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and
South-West by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears
North 75 degrees West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape
Flinders.
d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on
each; they are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a
mile in diameter: d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west
from Cape Flinders, from which it is distant twelve miles and a
half.
g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained
whether they are connected to each other or not: they may also be
joined to c, and indeed this supposition is very likely to be
correct, for we found the water quite smooth, and little or no
set of tide on passing them. On the southwest extremity of g, in
latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 50
minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is also upon h, but
on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry for four
or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h
is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49
minutes.
i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in
diameter, and has a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is
two miles North-North-West from the south-west end of h.
k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the
east of Pelican Island.
PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more
than a mile and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for
having two clumps of trees, which at a distance give it the
appearance of being two small islets: it is low, and, like the
other islands of its character, may be seen at ten miles from the
deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 seconds, and
longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.)
l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East
direction: it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more
than one-third of a mile wide: its greatest width is not more
than a mile and a half: its south-west end is five miles and
three-quarters north from Pelican Island.
m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in
North East by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is
separated by a channel of from one to two miles wide. At its
south-west end, where there is an extensive dry sandy key, and
some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: but towards its northern
end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter of a mile. The
south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North 44
degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of
Claremont Isles.
n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected
with m. At its westernmost end, about four miles North by East
1/2 East from the west end of m., is a dry sand of small
extent.
It was considered probable that there was a safe passage
between the reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the
termination of the latter, upon which the sea was breaking, which
afforded a proof of its not being connected with the former,
which also the dark colour of the water sufficiently
indicated.
The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter
reef. (Volume 1.)
CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1
to 5; they are of coral formation, and are covered with small
brushwood; they are from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4
and 5, which are separated by a channel only a mile and a half
wide: off the east and south-east end of 5, a coral reef extends
for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two dry rocks on
its north-east end.
COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE.
COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30.
Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30.
Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20.
Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20.
Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a
half, and at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be
connected to it; o has a dry sand near its western extremity, in
latitude 13 degrees 34 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38
minutes 45 seconds.
Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143
degrees 38 minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet,
with a reef extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north
and south ends.
A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West
from islet 6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape
Sidmouth; this reef is not more than a quarter of a mile in
extent, and has a rock in its centre, that is uncovered at half
tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and therefore of dangerous
approach.
Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies
about two miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from
Round Hill summit.
q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until
close to it; it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the
extremity of Cape Sidmouth.
CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land
behind it; and at about nine miles in the interior, to the
West-North-West, there is a rounded summit: at the extremity of
the cape there are two remarkable lumps on the land, in latitude
13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 30
minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky shoals, and ought
not to be approached within four miles.
r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but
from the nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is
perhaps rocky also, and may be connected with them. It lies four
miles and a quarter North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and
West 1/2 North from islet 7.
6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north
ends of reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef
off the islet 6 1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that
off 7 is two miles and a half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13
degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes
30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 minutes 20 seconds, and
longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds.
8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a
quarter in diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed
opposite these islands, but their existence was not ascertained.
Both the islets are surrounded by coral reefs, of small
extent.
NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes
8 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a
low woody island, two miles long, but not more than half a mile
wide; it is surrounded by a coral reef, that does not extend more
than a quarter of a mile from its northern end. On the south
side, and within it, the space seemed to be much occupied by
reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account of the
thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a
covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end
of the island, distant four miles.*
(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of
Night Island; one bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from
its north point; we saw much shoal water to seaward. Roe
manuscript.)
u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we
passed, lies six miles North 18 degrees West from the north end
of Night Island; there is also a small rock detached from it,
which is not visible until close to it.
v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in
extent; its centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude.
SHERRARD’S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky
shoal extending for a mile to the South-East; the
south-westernmost is in 12 degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds
latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 seconds longitude.
10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10
seconds, on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky
islet, lying about a mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION;
off its east end is a smaller rock.
The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather
high, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles
North-West from the former cape is an opening in the hills; the
high land then continues to the northward to Cape Direction,
which has a peak near its extremity, close off which are two
small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half off is thirteen
fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55
seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.*
(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles
round the north side of Cape Direction. Roe
manuscript.)
x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it
appeared to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the
extremity of the cape.
y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in
extent; they are separated from each other by a channel a mile
wide; y is four miles and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape
Direction.
a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a
quarter in length; the latter extends for two miles in an east
direction, and is a mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles,
from a peaked hill on the shore, and is five miles to the south
of Cape Weymouth.
LLOYD’S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a
considerable opening at its south-west end, where the land was
very low; the hilly country to the south of Cape Direction also
ceases, and there is a considerable space of low land between
them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range.
CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high
summit; its extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15
seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds.
RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is high, and of conical shape;
about a mile East-South-East from it is a small rocky islet. The
coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms several
sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the
shores of the bay were not well examined.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles
North-West from Cape Weymouth. Roe manuscript.)
FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of
high land, in latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143
degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds: it has a reef off it according to
Lieutenant Jeffrey’s account, but its situation does not appear
to have been correctly ascertained: we did not see it.
BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south
end of TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the
coast to the northward being very low and sandy; with the
exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, which is the rocky projection that
forms the north extremity of Temple Bay. A little to the south of
the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. The latitude of Cape
Grenville’s east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, its
longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes.
c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end,
in latitude 12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143
degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds; it is about two miles long.
d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it
is covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it.
e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing
in latitude 12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12
degrees 24 minutes; and in longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it
is entirely covered, except a few dry rocks at its north-west
end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef is perhaps three or
four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not clearly
distinguished.
f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN
ISLAND, which is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the
neighbourhood of this reef that the merchant ship, Morning Star,
was lost. Quoin Island is in latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and
longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 seconds.
g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad;
having a dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20
seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about
three miles from its north end.
FORBES’ ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed
with vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles.
The summit of Forbes’ Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes
35 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds.
h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is
about one mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The
south end of h bears from the summit of Forbes’ Island West 1/4
South seven miles.
i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow
channel between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a
dry sandy key at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12
minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5
seconds.
PIPER’S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular
reefs, with a passage separating them of a quarter of a mile
wide; the reefs have each two islets upon them, and a dry rocky
key round their western edge: the centre of the narrowest part of
the channel between them is twelve and a half fathoms deep, but
abreast the south end of the south-easternmost shoal there is ten
and a half fathoms.
l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with
a dry rock at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5
seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes.
YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a
mile in extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and
longitude 143 degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.)
m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry
rock at its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three
miles from the summit of Haggerston’s Island.
n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles
long, and from one to four broad; it is separated from o by a
narrow tortuous channel, but not safe to pass through: both n and
o are covered. There is a safe passage between these reefs and
Haggerston’s Island, of a mile and a half wide; but there is a
small reef detached from the north-west end of n, which should be
avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of water
over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island,
from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to
the westward, of which we saw no signs.
p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it
was seen from the summit of Haggerston’s Island, as was also
another reef, seven miles South by East from it: the positions of
these reefs are doubtful.
HAGGERSTON’S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in
latitude 12 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143
degrees 12 minutes; it is situated at the South-South-West
extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two miles in length; its
northern side is furnished with some trees and a sandy beach. At
the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and rocks.
It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home’s Group by a
channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in
passing through it, the tide or current sets to the
North-North-West, round the reef off Haggerston’s Island. (See
volume 1.)
SIR EVERARD HOME’S GROUP consists of six islands: the two
south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon
it, which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon
the extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a
hillock, or clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in
latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143
degrees 11 minutes. The outer part of this group is bold to, and
the islands may be approached, but the space within them appeared
to be rocky: there is a passage between the group and Cape
Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing through it,
found overfalls with eighteen fathoms.
Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY
ISLAND, elevated and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston’s
Island, with good anchorage under its lee.
q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11
degrees 55 minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of
Sir Everard Home’s Group.
SIR CHARLES HARDY’S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be
seen five or six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11
degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23
minutes 40 seconds.
r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon
it.
COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues
off.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by
West 1/2 West, two miles and a half from the southernmost
Cockburn Island, and there are many shoals of great extent to the
northward of the group. Roe manuscript.)
t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and
appeared to be detached from each other.
BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of
three low bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at
the outer verge of the reef, and may be passed within a quarter
of a mile; the north-east island is in latitude 11 degrees 44
minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 58 minutes 45
seconds.
McARTHUR’S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which
two are very small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than
three miles long, and are separated from the Bird Isles by a
channel three miles and a half wide.
HANNIBAL’S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with
bushes, the easternmost is near the extremity of the reef
encircling the whole, and is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15
seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and
three-quarters, and another at two miles and a half
North-North-West from North Hannibal Island.)
v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a
mile and a quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its
north-west edge, and a rocky key at its south-west end; the
channel between it and Hannibal’s Islands is two miles and a half
wide: w is nearly four miles long, and is entirely covered; the
course between them is west, but, by hauling close round the east
end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course will carry a vessel a
quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; the north-west
extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees West
from Islet 1.
The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef,
of about a mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered
with low trees. Islet 1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45
seconds. Number 3 is a sandy islet crowned with bushes at the
north-west end of a coral reef of about a mile and a half in
length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared to be a
channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4,
5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached
reefs, with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude
11 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is
separated from CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The
latter is a small woody island, situated at the north-west end of
a coral reef, more than two miles long and one broad; the
north-west point of the reef runs off with a sharp point for
about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is good anchorage
under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is rather
heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the
latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and
its longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1
and above.)
(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the
southward of islet 7. Roe manuscript.)
8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the
eastward of Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of
8.
11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly
ascertained.
ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under
Pudding-pan Hill (of Bligh) the shape of which, being
flat-topped, is very remarkable: the hill is in latitude 11
degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 43
minutes 35 seconds.
The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and
sandy, with but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed
to the trade wind, which often blows with great strength, from
South-East and South-East by East.
ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in
the land of one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three
miles, when it turns to the north, and is concealed from the
view; the land on the north side of the entrance is probably an
island, for an opening was observed in Newcastle Bay, trending to
the south, which may communicate with the river. The entrance is
defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly lost. (Volume
1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south head,
which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and
present an inviting aspect.
NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores
are low, and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there
is a considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and
a half from Turtle Island.
Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky
islet on the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10
degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40
seconds; it is separated by a channel three miles wide from reef
x, which has a dry sand at its north end, in latitude 10 degrees
53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 minutes, it has also
some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part of its south
end.
Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of
which are covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three
miles and a quarter; neither of them appeared to be a mile in
width; the north-west end of z, when in a line with Mount
Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West.
Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the
south-east trend of the land of Cape York, is a group of high
rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; and immediately off the point is a
reef, which extends for about a mile; half a mile without its
edge, we had ten fathoms.
The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance.
THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh’s chart, are two
high rocks upon a reef.
ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of
large size; the easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends
for less than a quarter of a mile from it; the peak is in
latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 142
degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds.
YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the
principal island, which is not more than two miles long, has a
very conspicuous flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in
latitude 10 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142
degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off the south-east end of this
island are two rocky islets, the southernmost of which is more
than a mile distant; the northern group of the York Isles are
laid down from Captain Flinders.
(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount
Adolphus, but it appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.)
CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a
conical hill half a mile within its extremity, the situation of
which is in 10 degrees 42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142
degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East of Greenwich. There is also an
island close to the point with a conical hill upon it, which has
perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from which it is
separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of the
summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142
degrees 28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable
shoal extends to the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill
on the extremity of a point. In the centre of this shoal are some
dry rocks.
At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is
the rocky islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds,
and longitude 142 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small
size, and surrounded by deep water; and, being easily seen from
the strait between Cape York and the York Isles, serves to direct
the course.
POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and
7 only are of large size, and neither of these are two miles
long; they are also higher than the others. Number 1 is a small
conical hill; 2 is hummocky; 3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes
with a hollow in its centre, like the seat of a saddle. The
passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 is the best; there
is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, it must be
recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the
northern side.
ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales’
Islands: a shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees
45 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35
seconds) to the westward, and is probably connected with a strip
of sand that stretches from Wallis’ Isles to Shoal Cape. We
crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when the least depth
was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more than three
fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West.
PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and
openings, that are very little known; there was an appearance of
a good port, a little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude
10 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15
minutes) which may probably communicate with Wolf’s Bay; the
strait to the south of Wednesday Island also offers a good port
in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and without them is
the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it.
WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30
minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be
approached close, but a considerable shoal stretches off its
western side, the greater part of which is dry.
Off HAMMOND’S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West
3/4 South, and five miles and three-quarters from the north end
of Wednesday Island. Captain Flinders passed through the strait
separating Wednesday Island from Hammond’s Islands, and had four,
five, and six fathoms.
Abreast of the strait separating GOOD’S ISLAND from the latter
is the reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it,
and one mile and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is
generally covered; the latter bears South 75 degrees West three
miles and a quarter from the rock off Hammond’s Island, and about
North 45 degrees West two and a quarter miles from the opening
between Good and Hammond’s Island; the marks for avoiding it are
given in the sailing directions.
(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached
patches, that extend farther off than is at first observed. There
is also a narrow strip of rocks extending for a short distance
off the north-east end of the reef off Hammond’s Island. Roe
manuscript.)
NORTH-WEST REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are
dry; it is ten or eleven miles long; the channel between it and
the islands is from one mile and three-quarters to two miles and
a quarter wide.
BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes,
longitude 141 degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky
islet of scarcely a third of a mile in diameter; its south-west
end has a shoal projecting from it for half a mile, but its other
sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees East direction from it,
at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, is a sandbank
with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine and
Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named
LARPENT’S BANK.*
(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of
five miles in length, extending in an east and west direction, a
few feet only below the surface of the water. Roe
manuscript.)
APPENDIX A. SECTION 3.
DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF
THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN WESSEL’S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE
STRAIT.
In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the
islands of Timor Laut and Arroo from the north coast of
Australia, the winds are periodical, and are called the east and
west monsoons, for such is their direction in the mid-sea. Near
the Coast of New Holland the regularity of these winds is partly
suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; this produces
land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from the
quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The
usual course of the winds near the coast in the months of April,
May, and June, is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind
springs up at daylight from South or South-South-East; it then
usually freshens, but, as the sun gets higher, and the land
becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon the sea-wind rushes
in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from East; at
sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts
the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not
keep at a moderate distance from the land, she is subject to
delay; she would not, however, probably have so fresh a breeze in
the day time. Later in the season of the easterly monsoon, in
August, September, and October, calms are frequent, and the heat
is sultry and oppressive; this weather sometimes lasts for a
fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly monsoon
commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather,
but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady
winds in the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above
described, near the coast. It ceases about the latter end of
November or early part of December; the westerly monsoon may then
be expected to blow strong, and perhaps with regularity. This is
the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain
Flinders’ crew experienced much sickness in his examination of
the Gulf of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the
western side of the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then
experienced might be occasioned by the monsoon’s blowing over the
land. In January and February the monsoon is at its strength, but
declines towards the end of the latter month, and in March
becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and unsettled weather; the
wind is then generally from the South-West, but not at all
regular.
The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a
knot and a half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it
is not stronger, and its course in the easterly monsoon, when
only we had any experience of it, was West: the strength is
probably increased or diminished by the state of the wind.
The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from
the eastward, but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so
much as a mile and a half per hour. High water takes place at
full and change at Liverpool River, and Goulburn Island at six
o’clock, at the entrance of the Alligator Rivers in Van Diemen’s
Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end of Apsley
Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the
eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local
circumstances; the rise is not more than eleven feet at the
springs.
(*Footnote. In St. Asaph’s Bay, Lieutenant Roe found
high-water take place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes;
and in King’s Cove at 5 hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it
rose fourteen feet.)
The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely
affected by the ship’s local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is
between 3 and 4 degrees East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4
degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 degrees East, and off Cape
Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.
The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was
27 degrees 32 1/2 minutes.
When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by
Captain Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing
the examination of the north coast, that it was found necessary
to return to Port Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that
separates Point Dale from Wessel’s Islands, which is called in my
chart BROWN’S STRAIT, he saw no part of the coast to the westward
of that point, nor did he even see Cape Wessel, the extremity of
the range of Wessel’s Islands, which terminate in latitude 10
degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 minutes 30
seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of
smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few
on the eastern side of Brown’s Strait; one of which is
Cunningham’s Island, of Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in
latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 31
minutes.
POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the
east extremity of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36
minutes, longitude 135 degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky
islands of small size, lying off, encompassed by a reef, which
extends for eight miles North-North-East 1/2 East from the point.
In Brown’s Strait the tide sets at the rate of three and a half
and four miles per hour; the flood runs to the southward through
the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the coast extends for
about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; in which
space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably
small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait
insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.
CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep;
it is fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral
formation, crowned with small trees and bushes: the centre of the
northernmost islet is in latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50
seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. To the
eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of the bay, the coast
is very much indented, and probably contains several openings or
rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The beach is
generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to
the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast
hills, which are very low and level. From the extremity of CAPE
STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and
longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West by
North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile
within the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half
a mile to the eastward. Every other part of the reef is
covered.
To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven
leagues in extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western
end there is a small break in the beach, but it did not appear to
be of any consequence.
The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of
LIVERPOOL RIVER, whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round
Islet; which, as well as Entrance Island, is connected to the
above point by a shoal. Haul-round Islet is in latitude 11
degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes;
Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and
longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. The entrance is from
one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef extends for half a
mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the water is
deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter
fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen
fathoms: at seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth
decreases to four fathoms, and then gradually shoals to three;
after which it varies in the channel of the river to between nine
and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses the river at the low
mangrove island, over which there is not more than three feet at
low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at the
springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the
river.
The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty
miles, but as our examination was unassisted by bearings or
observations, it is laid down from an eye sketch. POINT
BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and
longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to
the westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is
Junction Bay, which was not examined. For the next thirty miles
the coast is very much indented, and has some deep bays on either
side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of Point
Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is
probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered,
being low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without
a hill or rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous
appearance. At this place, however, a range of rocky hills,
WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, of about twenty miles in extent:
five miles behind it is the Tor (latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes,
and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds) a solitary
pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by South, from
the latter is a peak-topped hill.
The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on
which there are four remarkable ridges, of which the two
westernmost are the most remarkable.
GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about
twenty miles in circumference; they are separated from each other
by a rocky strait three miles wide, which in most parts is deep
enough for a ship of any size to pass through; the latitude of
the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 minutes. Macquarie
Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and is nearly
two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen
fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the
northern side of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.
SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms
at a mile from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of
a mile off the beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. At the north
end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point by a
channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one
of our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37
minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40
seconds. The bay affords a convenient place for wooding and
watering; the latter may be had during the early months of the
dry season (as late as August) from a drain at the base of the
Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are also some
holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later period.
The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of
collecting it.
MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording
good anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms
mud, at a mile from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the
eastward, and it is high water at full and change in the strait
at six o’clock; the rise of the tide is not more than five or six
feet. The north-east point of North Goulburn Island is in
latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 degrees 26
minutes.
From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and
north-westward to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities.
POINT BROGDEN, in latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only
projection in this space, is remarkable for being higher than
usual, and for having a range of cliffs to the southward of the
point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, hence the land is
rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy projection in
latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore
continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a
conspicuous tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within
a short distance of the sea, as is generally the case with the
shores of this coast. CAPE COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18
minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds.
MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker,
it is twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains
several islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New
Year’s Island, the latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55
minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the
outermost; the others are named Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant,
Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, and have wide and
apparently deep channels between them. Between New Year’s and
McCluer’s Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and
eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the
north-west end of the latter island for nearly three miles, and
the ground is rocky and shoal for some distance off the
north-east end of Oxley’s Island. Grant’s Island is higher than
the others, which are merely small woody islets, the centre is in
11 degrees 10 minutes. At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay
is MALAY BAY which is four miles wide and six deep; it affords
good anchorage in four and five fathoms in the centre: as it
offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any part of it.
Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is more
than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a
reef off its north point, and another off its south-east point,
each about a mile in extent.
COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in
latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43
minutes; four miles and a quarter West-North-West from it is a
covered sandbank having nine feet water near its edge; it was not
quite certain whether it was joined to the land or not, from
which it is distant two miles and a half.
On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles
wide separating Croker’s Island from the main; it is ten or
eleven miles in length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet
were observed to pass through it.
CROKER’S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north
to south, and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is
in 10 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34
minutes 10 seconds longitude; about three-quarters of a mile
within it there is a remarkable rocky knob: its south extreme is
in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.
PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in
the easterly monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and
nearly three deep. The shore is rocky for a mile off, and the
south point has a rocky shoal projecting to the West-North-West
for a mile and a quarter.
DARCH’S ISLAND is separated from Croker’s Island by a
navigable strait two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east
end we had six fathoms, but in mid-channel the depth was as much
as eleven fathoms. A considerable reef projects off the east end
for more than a mile. The island is about two miles and
three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; its north point is in
latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.
RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven
miles deep, and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the
depth is not more than three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is
however quite safe.
The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef
extending from it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its
bottom of very little importance. At the north-east end of the
bay, separated from the point by a channel a mile wide, and more
than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy island, with a reef
extending for a mile off its north end.
PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and
Point Smith, are seven miles apart, is an extensive port,
thirteen miles and a quarter deep, and from five to three wide;
independent of its Inner Harbour, which, with a navigable
entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and four wide. The
port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or dangers in
it.
On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks,
and also a reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that
forms the east head of Knocker’s Bay. The western side of the
entrance to Inner Harbour, is also rocky and shoal for two-thirds
across, but near the opposite point* the depth is thirteen
fathoms.
(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer,
see above.)
On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a
quarter of a mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some
of which are dry; this danger, when in a line with a remarkable
cliff two miles and a quarter to the south of Table Point, bears
East-South-East 1/2 East; close without them the depth is five
fathoms.
The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in
for two miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection,
surrounded by a rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The
anchorage between the entrance and Middle Head is in five and six
fathoms mud, and in the centre of the western basin the depth is
five fathoms mud. The shores are higher than usual, and are
varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of white and others of a
red colour. The western side of the port was not visited, and our
tracks and examinations were made principally on the opposite
shore. At the bottom of Knocker’s Bay is a shoal mangrove
opening, of no importance. See volume 1. POINT SMITH is in
latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 132
degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.
VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and
extending into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG
BAY. This bay has an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be
shoal. A small sandy island lies at the distance of a mile and
three-quarters from the shore; the reef projects into the sea for
nearly a mile farther, and apparently extends to the South-West
to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a small opening at the
bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be had in
Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads,
and as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered
in the easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a
half. The latter cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30
seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.
VAN DIEMEN’S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty
broad. It has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward,
DUNDAS STRAIT, is sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other,
CLARENCE STRAIT, is seventeen miles wide, and communicates with
the sea round the south sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands:
it is probably not so safe as Dundas’ Strait, on account of
Vernon’s Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its western
end.
The north eastern side of Van Diemen’s Gulf washes the south
side of Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the
eastward of MOUNTS BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR
GEORGE HOPE’S ISLANDS, forming a channel or port within them
twenty miles deep and from three to six broad; the entrance to it
is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, which is separated
from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and a half
wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for
half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within
it the bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and
principally of mud. This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35
minutes.
The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores
are very low, and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are
the two (and probably three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost
(or centre) is fronted by FIELD ISLAND, the centre of which is in
12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 degrees 25 minutes 10
seconds longitude. These rivers have been described in the
narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and
forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or
eight miles.
In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled
with wooded hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards
Wellington Range, of which they might be considered a part: but
between the rivers and Clarence Strait the country is low and
flat, and only protected from inroads of the sea by a barrier of
sandhills, beyond which not a vestige of the interior could be
seen.
CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from
the mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen
to thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre,
between Cape Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group
of four low rocky islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon’s
Islands) from which considerable reefs extend towards either
shore.
The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape
Gambier, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds;
and there also appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the
south side; but the neighbourhood of Vernon’s Islands is rocky.
The flood-tide sets to the eastward into the gulf.
MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western
side of Van Diemen’s Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van
Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest
breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred
miles.
We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance
of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21
minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were
driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than
the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours,
particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north
coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and
the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that
there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a
small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream;
and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one
also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs
and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville
Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow
strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the
point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each
there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and
Lethbridge Bays.
The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees
8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30
seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a
range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a
most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual
colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen
is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for
four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had
no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal
(MERMAID’S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for
seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER’S HEAD, forms the
northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge
is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between
ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but
very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most
direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which
there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT
by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the
parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of
Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island
bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the
shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper’s
Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait,
which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the
low, sandy, south point of the strait’s entrance* is in a line
with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill
on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East.
Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to
the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the
strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul
in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.
(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain
Bremer.)
The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy
extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel
then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals
suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is
about a mile and a half wide.
APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three
broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end,
for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south
entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to
the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen’s Gulf out of
Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must
cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally
from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the
south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the
channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without
knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through
the deepest part of the channel.
BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in
extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles.
GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the
easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and
terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a
bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the
south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin
Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably,
water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in
latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water
inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it
then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a
wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and
formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded
hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the
two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the
bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin
two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up
at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and
five fathoms deep.
The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a
few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred
feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.
Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for
the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 4.
OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION
OF THE COAST BETWEEN CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is,
between Cape Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very
materially from the regularity of the monsoons in the sea that
divides it from Timor and the islands to the northward; excepting
in the narrower part between Cape Londonderry and the Sahul Bank,
where, from the contracted nature of the sea, more regular winds
may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences about the
beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows with
great strength, and will be found more regular close to the
projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the
character of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.
After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape
Londonderry are very irregular, and generally blow from the
southward or south-west; they are however more constant to the
westward of Buccaneer’s Archipelago, where the seabreezes blow
principally from the North-West along the land. At intervals,
during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from South-East,
but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. Ships
may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during
the easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in
the mid sea, without being much delayed by calms. Towards the
North-west Cape, neither the monsoon nor the South East trade are
much experienced, the wind being generally from the South-West or
North-West.
During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the
months of December and January, the wind is regular between
West-North-West and West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of
the North-west Cape, sometimes blows hard; but even in these
tropical regions, when the weather is very bad, the change is
predicted by the barometer, which otherwise is scarcely
affected.
In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is
less constant, and the wind often blows off the land, so that a
ship could make her westing, when, if more to the northward, it
would be impossible for her to gain any ground. At the latter end
of February the westerly winds die away, and are succeeded by
light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, unwholesome weather,
and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind and rain.
If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes
to get to the westward, she will find the wind more regular and
strong from the eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the
easterly monsoon lasts until the first or second week in
November: in the months of September and October, to the
southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds are almost
constant from South-West. The currents are stronger according to
the regularity and strength of the wind, and generally set at the
rate of one or one knot and a half. The tides in this part of the
coast are noticed in the description of the places where they
were observed. High water at full and change takes place at: The
anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.
In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Prince Regent’s River at 12 hours 20 minutes.
The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and
particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared
gradually to increase: the greatest that we experienced was in
the vicinity of Buccaneer’s Archipelago; and at the anchorage in
Camden Bay the tide rose thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably
by the intersected nature of the coast.
The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be
noticed for the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes
Londonderry and Van Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree
East. Between the former and Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1
1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay the mean of the observations
gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the westward of that, as far as
Cape Villaret, the results of the observations varied between 1
degree East and 1 degree West. Near the North-west Cape, and to
the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is about two
degrees Westerly.
On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the
coast to the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a
river, but it was not examined. The opening to the eastward of
the projecting point that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay,
seemed to be a good port; and to have an inlet at its bottom
trending to the South-East.
CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and
longitude 131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson
Bay: it is fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable
distance into the sea; their extremity is nearly nine miles north
from the cape.
Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the
northward of which there is a bay: to the south the shore is
wooded, and trends for eighteen miles to the north entrance of
Anson Bay, which is formed by PERON ISLANDS; these are low and
sandy; at the extremity of the northern island, there is a sandy
peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude
131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is overrun with
mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel
existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely
surrounded by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very
intricate, and useless, since that to the south of the islands is
so much better. Anson’s Bay affords good anchorage, and probably
has a small rivulet at the bottom.
CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds,
longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef
projecting for three miles from it: hence the coast trends round
to the southward for thirty miles to a bay, which also has a
small opening at the bottom; five miles inland there is a range
of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are conspicuous;
and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They are
the Barthelemy Hills.
A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in
latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees
34 minutes, the eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a
reef, which extends from it for more than three miles. The west
side has also a reef, but of much more considerable size,
stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for fifteen miles; near
its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, occupying an extent
of two miles. The channel within the heads is from two to four
miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven
fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the
narrow mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to
the south for six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that
run up for six or seven miles more to the foot of a range of
wooded hills, one of which is MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of
the inlet is occupied by a bank of clay, that dries at low water.
At about three miles within the narrow entrance on the western
side, there is an inlet, and above this the anchorage is good,
the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small ironstone
pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep and
rocky.
Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds,
and longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT
PEARCE, in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude
130 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and
was only seen at a distance. Off the latter point there is a reef
which does not extend to a greater distance than a mile and a
half.
To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive
opening, which bad weather and other circumstances did not allow
of being examined. It is nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth
across between eight fathoms and twenty. The south shore is lined
by a considerable reef extending for seven miles from the beach.
The land was very indistinctly seen at the back, but, in one
part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in which
nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being
sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and
the rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this
opening to be of considerable size and importance.
The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It
occupies an extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by
extensive reefs, which project for twenty-three miles; the north
extremity of the shoal water is twenty-six miles, nearly due west
from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a narrow point, and then
trends in to the South-West towards the coast.
The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it
projects from the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for
seventeen miles, and terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen
miles north from Lacrosse Island, in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2
minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and their edges are very
steep to. They are covered with large quantities of mollusca,
which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.
CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a
South-South-Westerly direction for sixty-four miles. The
entrance, between Cape Domett and Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles
wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which there is good anchorage
for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides the entrance
into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles and a
half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from
the shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms.
The reefs project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On
the eastern side of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the
point, we had seven fathoms, and there was every appearance of
the channel being deep in the neighbourhood of Cape Domett.
Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees
47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees 24 minutes, is a
conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and rocky, and,
at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like
Lacrosse Island.
Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for
twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into
two arms, of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles
from Lacrosse Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a
width of five miles, the shores being twelve miles apart. The
land on the western side of the gulf is high and rocky; but the
opposite shore is very low, and apparently marshy. The bottom is
of sand, as are the banks on either side, and affords good
anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in
mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather
shore near the edge of the bank.
The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the
East and West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a
half wide, and four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is
joined by an arm that washes the south side of Adolphus Island,
and the united streams trend together in a South-East direction,
under the foot of Mount Connexion, for a considerable distance.
This inlet was not examined. The West Arm extends down the west
side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then divided by a
projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to the
eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to
trend to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin
eleven miles in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at
seven miles, gradually contracts as it winds under the base of
the Bastion Hills: before, however, you arrive at the basin, the
stream is divided by several islands and rocky islets, that
narrow the channel in some parts to the width of half a mile, in
which the depth is very great, and the tide runs with great
strength.
At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the
west shore is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and
there a detached hill rising from a plain of low marshy land,
that, at the time of our visit, was covered with a salt
incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of the sea, which,
apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great extent:
some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The
hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone
formation. The basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel
in the centre, with from five to nine fathoms water. The shore,
opposite the Bastion Hills, is low, and the gulf trends gradually
round to the South-West for five miles, when it is contracted
into a narrow communication, called The Gut, leading to an
interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, which the
tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow
stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also
appeared to be several others falling into the basin more to the
westward. The water was salt at the extremity of our exploration.
The Gut leading to it is two miles long, and not so much as a
quarter of a mile wide: in some parts we had nineteen fathoms,
but in others it was deeper; it runs through a chasm in the
hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally recede and form
bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some very
considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any
part of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season
when we were there, it might probably be found in a more advanced
season in every part of the western side, where the land is high
and the gullies numerous: there is, however, no durable
freshwater stream without the Gut. An alligator was observed
swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.
The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a
distance of ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but
few sinuosities of any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky,
with here and there a few sandy beaches: but the shore generally
is open and exposed: there are many parts, however, where a boat
might land; particularly behind BUCKLE HEAD, and a little farther
on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place there is a gully in the
hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably produce fresh
water: this bay is near Captain Baudin’s MOUNT CASUARINA, a
flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is
only visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West,
and may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is
situated at six miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23
minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50
seconds.
The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently
elevated to conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting
Mount Casuarina, could be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they
do not appear to extend more than two miles from the shore. At
CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more westerly. To the westward
of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats might effect a
landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. To the
eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than
two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the
westernmost of the bays, is an island with a reef extending for
nearly three miles from it: behind the island is another bay,
that appeared to be fronted by the above reef. In the offing, and
at the distance of six miles from the shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND;
it is about two miles in circumference, and surrounded by a coral
reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its north-east
end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than to
the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the
South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several
sandy bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at
about five miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the
back of which a gully in the hills appeared promising for the
search for fresh water, more particularly on account of the
verdant appearance of the trees near it.
CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised
by the reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land,
which takes from it a westerly direction; there are also two
small sandy islets, Stewart’s Islets, at a little more than two
miles from it, encompassed by the reef. The cape is in 13 degrees
44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 seconds East.
The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles,
to CAPE TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape
Londonderry, and projects from the shore for nearly five miles,
but to the eastward of the cape a ship may approach it within two
miles.
To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay
twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted
by SIR GRAHAM MOORE’S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long,
and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped
hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller
island, to the north of the principal island.
At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east
entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and
the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this
space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by
rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than
half a mile.
The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the
innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of
Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore’s Islands to Mary
Island.
The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape,
and extends to the westward, embracing JONES’ ISLAND (in latitude
13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and
the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five
miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky
until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good
anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy
bottom.
The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks
to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about
half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to
pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of
Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks,
bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island,
until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close
round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed
the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the
bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock;
but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the
channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no
danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest
part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.
The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of
CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and
a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it,
between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10
seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the
offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not
ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the
island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would
be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land
near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good
mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20
seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.
Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten
broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky,
and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western
shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the
port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most
secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from
seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access:
but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at
the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven
fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the
eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o’clock; the tide rises
about six feet.
JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it
the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14
degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40
seconds.
The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula,
the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of
this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three
miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold
approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends
round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the
coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to
it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape
there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east
and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east
extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13
degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45
seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles
broad.
There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape,
that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty
miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks
on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees
41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton
Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to
twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between
the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more
than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three
fathoms deep.
Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY
GULF. It is twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep,
independent of Port Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with
islands and reefs: a group off Cape Voltaire was seen by the
French and named by them the INSTITUTE ISLANDS, the three
principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called Descartes,
Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, and
Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern
side of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN’S ISLANDS, which are
high and rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep,
precipitous form, and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in
Cambridge Gulf. There is also a conspicuous high bluff on the
principal island, which appears to have been seen by the
French.
In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level,
and surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side
are four sandy beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle:
a reef projects off its north end for a mile and a half. The
anchorage is good near the island, but the water is very deep.
The situation of its centre is in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes
5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 minutes.
PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good
anchorage in the bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is
quite land-locked; but equally secure anchorage may be had for
five miles higher up the port, in from four to seven fathoms,
mud. It extends for six miles farther, but the depth in some
parts is not more than two fathoms.
At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into
two inlets, which wind under the base of a dividing range of
high, steep, and wooded hills; these run up for five miles
higher, when they become mere mangrove creeks. There is probably
another inlet on the east side of Port Warrender which we did not
examine, since it appeared to be less considerable in size, and
important in appearance, than the arm which we had examined.
CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude
125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.
WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open
to the eastward. We did not enter it.
CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for
more than twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty
Gulf from Montagu Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its
extremity, in latitude 14 degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and
longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 seconds; and, at three miles
more to the southward, a peaked hill; its shores on either side
are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the width across to
Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.
The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist
of three rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues
from the deck: the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13
minutes 40 seconds, longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30
seconds.
MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of
Bigge’s Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from
eleven to twenty miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands;
the outer range, which is eight miles within the Montalivet
Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; besides which there were
several scattered about the sound, and some of larger size near
the main: of the latter are KATER’S and WOLLASTON’S. They are of
a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and shallow
soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees,
growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in
latitude 14 degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32
minutes 25 seconds, was visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN
ISLAND, in the south-west corner of the sound. The latter island
is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude
125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both rocky, and
destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition of
the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between
them appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth
among the islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy
bottom; but the anchorage is better between Kater Island and the
promontory that separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other
part. It is a very fine port, particularly near the bottom, in
SWIFT’S BAY, where the depth is from four to five fathoms at low
water, It is high water at full and change in Swift’s Bay at
twelve o’clock, which is two hours and a quarter later than in
Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in Port
Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east
end of Bigge’s Island are more numerous than in other parts of
the sound: they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to
give correct positions to. BIGGE’S ISLAND is fourteen miles long,
and from six to seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky
character: its south end appeared to be thickly wooded. A
flat-topped hill near the shore of Scott’s Strait is a remarkable
object, and may be seen six or seven leagues off. It is in
latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125
degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.
SCOTT’S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge’s Island from the
main: it is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a
quarter broad. It is of irregular depth, and has some rocks in
mid-channel, which are dry: the deepest channel is near the
eastern shore, the depth being from ten to fourteen fathoms. The
strait does not terminate until you are to the westward of Cape
Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of Bigge’s
Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there
may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west
end of Bigge’s Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones
were seen by me in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET
ISLES of Commodore Baudin; they consist of four or five principal
islands, of about two miles in length, besides as many more of
very small size off the south extremity of the group. The
northern point of the northernmost island is in latitude 15
degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56
minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side
by a considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for
seven miles; the outer edge being three miles and a half to the
westward of the group.
YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is
contained between Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the
Coronation Islands. It is spacious, but the bottom, in the
middle, is rocky: there is, however, very good anchorage near the
Coronation Islands; and there is also, possibly, as good on the
eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which has a rocky island
immediately off it, the situation of which is in latitude 14
degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9
minutes 25 seconds.
At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC’S HARBOUR, a
fine spacious port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven
broad: it is terminated by two rivers, namely Hunter’s and Roe’s.
It has several rocky islands on either shore; and, at the bottom,
they are numerous. The tide here rises at the springs twenty-nine
feet. The anchorage is not so good in the entrance of the port,
but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter’s River begins
to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a
small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage
may very probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed,
any where out of the strength of the tides.
HUNTER’S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about
one mile and a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that
width for more than four miles, when it suddenly contracts and
becomes shoal, and very tortuous in its course, and winds through
a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise precipitously in some
parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A vessel may anchor
in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its course is
to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the
entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and
longitude 125 degrees 24 minutes. ROE’S RIVER first trends for
seventeen miles to the East by South, and then, taking a sudden
turn to the south, runs up for thirteen miles more; after which
it trends to the South-East, and was supposed to run up for at
least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven miles forms a
very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, in
anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls
twenty-nine feet. This river, like Hunter’s River, is bounded on
either bank by precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are
inaccessible.
Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off
the latter is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East
from it, is a reef, on which the sea breaks. This point is the
east head of PORT NELSON, which extends to the southward from it
for eight miles: its western side is formed by the Coronation
Islands: its width is three miles, with good anchorage all over
it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid was
repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18
seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port
Nelson communicates with the sea to the westward of the
Coronation Islands, which may be considered a strait. At the
south-west end of the southernmost island, where the strait is
narrowest, and not more than one mile and a quarter wide, there
is a patch of rocks in the centre, which always shows: the
channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: the water
is very deep, and the tide sets right through.
(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken
every day during our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect
of refraction was so great that the daily observations varied as
much as 3 minutes 43 seconds.The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the
latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen
observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds.
Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18
seconds South.The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of
our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the
latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent’s River, the
difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers
and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances
with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the
sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees
11 minutes 24.3 seconds.1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances
with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the
sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point,
in Prince Regent’s River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes
15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1
seconds.The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0
minutes 46 seconds East.)
The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay,
and are situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of
seventeen or eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On
the largest island are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is
in 14 degrees 59 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5
seconds. The island is eight miles long, and from four to two
wide; the others are from three to one mile in length; they are
covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well clothed
with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of
the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the
country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great
drawbacks upon the advantage of the tide’s unusual rise. It is
high water at full and change in Port Nelson at twelve o’clock,
as it is also in Montagu Sound.
Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small,
rocky islands extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is
Freycinet’s Group; the principal island of which Captain De
Freycinet has described as resembling an inverted bowl; and, from
this description, we had no difficulty in finding it out; it is
in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124
degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other islands we
distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On the
last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14
degrees 55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43
minutes 20 seconds.
We passed out to sea between Freycinet’s Group and Keraudren;
and within one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen
fathoms: it appeared, from the colour of the water, to have a
reef projecting to the westward.
BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends
from CAPE BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds,
and longitude 124 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates
Port Nelson, to Point Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and
is about twenty miles in extent, with good anchorage all over it.
The coast is here very much indented by rivers and bays; among
which may be particularized Prince Regent’s River, Hanover Bay,
and Port George the Fourth.
PRINCE REGENT’S RIVER is, without exception, the most
remarkable feature of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets
of this coast form extensive ports at their entrance; and, when
they begin to assume the character of a river, their course
becomes tortuous, and very irregular; of which there cannot be a
better instance than the neighbouring river, Roe’s River. Prince
Regent’s River trends into the interior in a South-East by East
direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point to
intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The
entrance is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff
on the west, a width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by
islands, that, in hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is
suddenly reduced to little more than a mile: at the branching off
of Rothsay Water, it is little more than half a mile, and also
the same width at the entrance of St. George’s Basin. In this
space, however, it is in some parts a little wider, but in no
part between projecting points is it more than one mile and a
quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by
islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural
banks of the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington,
is a deep bay, but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles
farther on are two inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which
the tide forms rapid eddies and whirlpools, that render its
approach dangerous. In mid-channel is a group of isles; and, off
the easternmost, a reef projects to the eastward for more than
half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here the channel is
not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the western
side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very
good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is,
however, an inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any
farther up the river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm;
and was conjectured to communicate with Prince Frederic’s
Harbour, and, if so, would insulate the land between Capes
Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay Water; and the
tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust our
small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of
this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank.
Halfway Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the
tides, with abundance of room to get underweigh from. The
northernmost point of the bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off
it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the observations were taken to fix the
longitude of Careening Bay. (See above.) The two bays on the
opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and not fit for any
vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the shores are so
lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts at
landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other
within three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is
fronted by a rocky shoal, which narrows it to less than half a
mile; here the tide runs very strong, and forms whirlpools. On
passing the point, the river opens into a large, spacious reach,
which was called ST. GEORGE’S BASIN; and two conspicuous islands
in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK’S ISLANDS. At the
north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS TRAFALGAR and
WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in
latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125
degrees 4 minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in
diameter, but affords no safe anchorage until a vessel is above
St. Patrick’s Island. The northern side of the basin is shoaler,
and has two small inlets, which trend in on either side of the
mounts, and run in for upwards of five miles, but they are salt.
At the south side of the basin there are two or three inlets of
considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. At ten
miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin
the river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so
perfectly straight for fourteen miles in a South-East by East
course, that the hills, which rise precipitously on either bank,
were lost in distance, and the river assumed the most exact
appearance of being a strait; it was from one to one mile and a
quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms deep on
a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and
continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a
few slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until
terminated by a bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high
enough to fall over, was very dangerous to pass: here a
considerable gully joins the main stream, and, being fresh water,
was supposed to have the same source as Roe’s River. The river
trended up for about three or four miles farther, when it is
entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did
not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this,
and the stream was perceived to continue and form a very
beautiful fresh-water river, about two or three hundred yards
wide. As our means did not allow of our persevering any further,
we gave up our examination. At seventeen miles above St. George’s
Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of fresh water
falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one hundred
and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very
large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time
of our visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then
there was a very considerable quantity falling. Several small
inlets trended in on either side of the river above the basin,
particularly one upon the north side, which, from the height of
the hills under which it trended, would probably produce a
freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from the cascade,
but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, for the
boats’ crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water
took place in St. George’s Basin at twenty minutes after twelve
o’clock: the tide rose twenty-four feet.
HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep,
but exposed from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however,
so good, that no danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the
bay there is a deep chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water
stream; beyond this the bay terminates in a shoal basin. In the
offing are several rocky islets, particularly one, a high rock,
which is very remarkable. A little to the north-east of the river
is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in latitude 15
degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46
minutes 50 seconds.
HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover
Bay from Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in
latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124
degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. Between High Bluff and Point
Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and
longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE THE
FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two
miles long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a
high rocky islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in
latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124
degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. The western side of the port is an
extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, eleven miles long; it is high
and rocky, and has several bays on its eastern side. The port
affords very good anchorage, particularly between Entrance Island
and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also very good
anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port
George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER’S STRAIT,
communicating with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is
on the eastern side of Entrance Island; for the opposite,
although practicable and sufficiently deep for the largest ships,
is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can be used.
POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the
north-east end of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point.
In the offing, at the distance of three miles, there is a
considerable range of reefs, that extend from the peaked island
of Jackson’s Isles; and more to the north-west is another group
of rocky islands.
To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands
extending for five leagues; on their north side they are fronted
by considerable coral reefs, which at low water are dry; besides
which there are several small islets that contract the channels,
and render the navigation intricate and difficult. Between
Augustus and Byam Martin’s Islands there is an open strait, of
one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the sea to
the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM
MARTIN’S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets,
extending North-North-East by a strait; and these last are
divided from the Champagny Isles by another strait, from
twenty-eight to thirty fathoms deep, through which the tide runs
with great force. Off the north end of Byam Martin’s Island are
several smaller islets and coral reefs; the latter extend from it
for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of these islets is
the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called by him
Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to
the westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds,
and longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and
Champagny Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive
reefs. Ten miles North 26 degrees East from Red Island, and South
71 degrees West from Freycinet’s Island, is a dry sandbank
surrounded by a reef.
DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost
of the CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south
end, which are dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15
degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13
minutes 15 seconds.
CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin’s Island and Pratt’s
Islands, and extends to the eastward to Roger’s Strait; it is
twelve miles deep and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell
thirty-seven feet and a half, the moon’s age being nineteen days.
High water took place thirteen minutes after the moon’s
transit.
Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles,
the mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening
fronted by a multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which,
from our loss of anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From
Camden Bay the islands, for the coast seemed too irregular to be
the mainland, extend in a range in a south direction for more
than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared to be a deep
opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An irregular
line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the
North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six
leagues. To the westward of this, the land appeared to be less
continuous, and to be formed by a mass of islands separated by
deep and narrow straits, through some of which the tide was
observed to rush with considerable strength, foaming and curling
in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of rocks: this
was particularly observed among the islands to the south of
Macleay’s Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to
the South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which
then trend to the South-East; and to the westward they are
separated from Cygnet Bay, and the land to the southward of it by
a strait five or six leagues wide. The narrowest part of this
strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is twelve miles wide;
two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, which bear
due south from Sunday Strait.
MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern
side of this extensive range of islands, which are named
BUCCANEER’S ARCHIPELAGO, are low and of small extent,
particularly the six easternmost, none of which are a mile long:
the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching to the
North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to
be of different formation to the other, being low and flat,
whilst the rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones,
slightly clothed with vegetation. Between the easternmost islet
and the land, there is a strait of a league in width. The tide
prevented our trying its depth: a league and a half to the
north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings between ten
and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it to
reduce it to the depth at low water.
Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery’s westernmost
island are COCKELL’S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of
small size. A reef extends for more than five miles to the
westward, and it was not thought improbable that it might be
connected with the reefs that extend to the westward of
Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15
degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the
North-East of Cockell’s Islands the flood-tide sets to the south;
but to the westward with great strength to the South-East, and,
at an anchorage ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the
tide rose and fell thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one
days old. Cockell’s Islands are twenty miles from the land to the
south; and in this interval, but within four leagues from the
shore, are several small rocky islets, on one of which there is a
remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two islands, which have a
more fertile and verdant appearance than any other part near
them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER’S BAY.
MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight
miles in extent; the principal and highest island is near the
south end of the group; those to the northward are small and
straggling. The centre of the highest is in latitude 15 degrees
57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 42 minutes.
CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in
latitude 16 degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123
degrees 18 minutes 35 seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a
range of islands, extending in the direction of North 60 degrees
West; among which Cleft Island, so named from a remarkable cleft
or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER’S MONUMENT, are
conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is separated
from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction
to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and
from fifteen to twenty deep.
Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of
Caffarelli Island is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of
about a mile in diameter; three miles to the north-east of which
we had irregular soundings, between thirty-eight and forty-five
fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef is in 15 degrees 57 minutes
South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds East.
Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island,
surrounded by a reef; and eight miles farther are several small
rocky islands, forming the north extremity of a range, which,
extending to the South by East for ten miles, form the eastern
side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and in fact the only
safe communication with the deep opening between Point Cunningham
and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point
Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a
multitude of islands and islets, separated from each other by
narrow and, probably, by deep channels, through which the tide
rushes with frightful rapidity. Sunday Strait is more than four
miles wide, and appears to be free from danger. The tide sets
through it at the rate of four or five miles an hour, and forms
strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for a boat
to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in
passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a
great measure avoid passing through them.
CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham;
it is fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found
was two fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and
near the inlets at the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy
bottom, with eight and nine fathoms mud.
POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its
easternmost extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20
seconds and longitude 123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward
it has the appearance of being an island, as the land to the
westward is rather lower: two miles and a half south of it is
Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.
The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for
seventeen miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond
which we did not penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in
latitude about 16 degrees 58 minutes, and to the south of it the
land was seen trending to the South by East for four or five
miles, when it was lost in distance. From this anchorage no land
was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the bearings of
East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of land
was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but
this, as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part
off Point Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.
From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening,
there is enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the
extent of the opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great
rise and fall of the tides, there must be a very extensive gulf
or opening, totally different from everything that has been
before seen.
There is also good reason to suspect that the land between
Cape Leveque and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the
mouth of this opening is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say
that the land even of Cape Villaret may not also be an island?
The French expedition only saw small portions of the coast to the
southward; but it does not appear probable that the opening
extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)
Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from
the summit of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and
merely covered with a few shrubs, and is about three miles from
east to west, and from one to one and a half broad; its west end
is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and 123 degrees 9 minutes 15
seconds East. At about a league North-West from its western end
are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we passed, but
which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation
upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of
Adele Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in
some parts of which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only
just below the surface. The light-coloured water extends for
fourteen miles North West by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but
there is reason to think that the water is deep over the greater
part of it; for we crossed over its tail, and sounded in
forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the
darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and
forty-four fathoms.
POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape
Leveque; it has an island close off its extremity, round which
the tide rushes with great force, and forms a line of ripplings
for ten miles to the West-North-West, through which, even in the
Bathurst, we found it dangerous to pass. Five miles to the
north-eastward of the point are two small rocky islets, two miles
apart from each other.
CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its
extremity: its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50
seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between
the cape and Point Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed
of rocks. It was in this bay that the Buccaneers anchored, which
Dampier has so well described.
The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40
degrees West nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country
sandy and unproductive. Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a
bay ten miles deep, backed by very low sandy land; and five miles
further is another bay, that appeared to be very shoal: thence
the coast extends to the South-West for twenty-three miles to
CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to the
northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance
of vegetation.
Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they
are three in number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by
five wide. They lie in a North-West direction, and are two miles
apart: the north-westernmost is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes
40 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they
are low and slightly clothed with bushes, and seem to be little
more than the dry parts of the reef, on which a soil has been
accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These islands
appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The
variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.
In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees
50 minutes 30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES
BALEINES; which we did not approach near enough to see.
Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is
six miles deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was
not distinctly seen, but from the appearance of the land behind
the beach, it is not improbable that there may be a rivulet
falling into it.
At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where
there is a range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to
present a more verdant and pleasing appearance than to the north:
the interior rises to an unusual height, and forms a round-backed
hill, covered with trees: it reminded us of the appearance of the
country of the north coast, and is so different from the rugged
and barren character of the Islands of Buccaneer’s Archipelago as
to afford an additional ground for our conjecture of the
insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four miles to
the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low
coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy
beaches.
CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb;
here the shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and
six deep: the south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which
is composed of sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the
character of the interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17
degrees 53 minutes, the coast trends to the South-East for about
fifteen miles, where it was lost to view in distance: the extreme
was a low sandy point, and appeared to be the south extremity of
the land. The space to the south of this, which appeared to be a
strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape Leveque,
is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to
Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in
latitude 18 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122
degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds.
The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called
ROEBUCK BAY. It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year
1688.
Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are
two lumps, which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape
Latouche-Treville has a small hummock near its extremity, in
latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50
minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there is a shallow bay
open to the northward.
The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between
eight and twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in
some parts sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms
at one heave, but the least water was eight fathoms. The
flood-tide sets to the eastward, towards the opening, and at an
anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the ebb ran to the
North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not rise
more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it
flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening
behind Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not
communicate with that behind the Buccaneer’s Archipelago.
The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island,
was not seen by us. The following brief description of it is
taken from M. De Freycinet’s account of Commodore Baudin’s
voyage.
LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the
bottom of which was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as
well as the neighbouring land; and, with the exception of a small
grove of trees a little to the north of Cape Duhamel, the country
is sterile everywhere.
The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which
are dry, on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel
between it and the shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two
and a half fathoms. The dry part of the reef extends from east to
west for about two miles.
Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and
sterile, with rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of
the same character.
With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the
west of Cape Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs
des Planaires, the French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy
and Keraudren, but at a great distance. It appeared low and
sterile.
The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable
longitudinal extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined
the mainland: some parts seemed to be dry at low water.
There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it,
situated nearly North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41
minutes latitude.
North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and
Cape Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the
entrance, is BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29
minutes, longitude 116 degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118
degrees 52 minutes East of Greenwich. It is low and sandy.
The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be
connected with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and
sand.
The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the
Cape itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to
be sterile.
TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape
Larrey: the south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet
(PLATEAU DE SABLE) the other is surrounded by a reef of coral,
upon which the sea breaks. The Casuarina (M. De Freycinet’s
vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile of it; the reef
appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing in fine
weather.
The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and
CAPE COSSIGNY.
The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and
perhaps are joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low
water. The Geographe sailed through them, so that it is probable
they are detached in numerous reefs.
At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here
very low, but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to
penetrate behind Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the
coastline that is laid down upon the chart is correct: it was
scarcely visible from the deck, and was so low that it might have
merely been the dry parts of extensive reefs. The high land
retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an amphitheatre or
deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in the
distance.
All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting
DEPUCH, which is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is
described in the first volume.
We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there
appeared to be a bay, on which the French found a stream of
water.
Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very
shoal. Towards the latter the hills approach the sea, and the
bottom is deeper. BEZOUT ISLAND is connected to the cape by a
reef, on which there are several dry rocks; we passed close round
its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.
To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24
minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there
are two deep openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but
their bottom was not distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of
the projecting point that separates them, there are three
remarkable rocky summits. The next point has several round-backed
hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL’S BAY, into which
there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores are low,
and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol’s Bay affords
good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to
the North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land:
it is, however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the
little elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel
should drive, the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is
clear and, as far as we know, free from danger.
DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the
northward, and also to the eastward, but on its western side did
not appear to extend for more than half a mile: the hill at the
north end of the island is in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35
seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 minute 25 seconds; the
passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, is about two
miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. The
edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for
we passed several straggling rocks.
LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier’s Archipelago:
it is nine miles long, and from half to one and a half mile
broad: near its south-east end, which is connected to HAUY
ISLAND, there are several rocky islets, and near its extremity it
has three remarkable hillocks; its North-West point is in
latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116
degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west extremity
are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its
shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the
ground under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our
cable hooked a rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke
away, so that the cable, being a chain was not damaged.
The islands of DAMPIER’S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky
character, and very different from either the coast or the
islands in their vicinity. It consists of about twenty islands,
besides smaller ones, scattered over a space of forty miles in
extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a small sandy
island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the
westernmost.
GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a
north and south direction; they are high and rocky. The west
shore of Gidley Island appeared to be fronted by a continuous
reef, on which some patches of dry rocks were observed. Gidley
Island is separated from Legendre Island by a very shoal and
rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger than
boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and
at low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep
passage through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only
to be attempted in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the
island to the southward, are two sandy bays. The land to the
southward is doubtless a part of the main: and is, like the other
islands, high and rocky. It forms the eastern shore of MERMAID’s
STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording safe and secure
anchorage at all seasons.
The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and
MALUS. The north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD,
is, without doubt, Captain Dampier’s Bluff Head. It is a very
remarkable point; its summit is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5
seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds East. On its
west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in four and five
fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a strait
a mile wide; it is probably deep.
The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting
tongue of land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the
southward of it, are two high rocky islets of similar appearance.
There is also another, but of smaller size, off the south-east
point of Malus Island. In the centre of Lewis Island there is a
valley, that stretches across to the opposite sides of the
island, forming a bay on either side.
To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which,
from the circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was
called INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a
remarkable summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50
seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is
from this Island that the natives drove us, and would not allow
us to land.* The channel between them and Lewis Island is more
than a mile wide, and is seven and eight fathoms deep.
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one
mile and a half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its
south-west point is ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to
be in latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude
116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To the north is GOODWYN ISLAND;
and further north, and West-North-West from Malus Island, from
which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half wide, is
ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or
South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West
by North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20
degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31
minutes. In the vicinity of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are
several small rocky islands, particularly on the north-east side
of the former; and at the distance of three miles, to the north
of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of flat rocks, which
are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 page 81
table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all
certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity
and remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been
any of the others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the
Archipelago, particularly within Lewis Island, where the
Intercourse Islands will shelter a ship from whatever point the
wind may blow.
There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands,
which is a great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the
rainy season water is doubtless abundant, but must be soon
evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any fresh water, excepting a few
gallons that were protected from the heat of the sun by being
under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives seen by
us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far
off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to
the islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two
miles from its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its
south-east end, lies off the south-west end of Enderby Island,
and would serve as a good protection from the sea in a South-West
wind, for the anchorage on the south side of Enderby Island.
The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the
bottom of the bay again assumes a low character: more to the
westward, a range of hills rises abruptly and advances for
fourteen miles in a North-West direction from the interior, and
reaches the shores of the bay, when it extends for eleven miles
to the westward, and is then terminated by a valley, or an
opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from the
rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and
is connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the
North-East; it is in latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds,
and longitude 116 degrees 5 minutes. In the centre of the bay, at
eight miles North 64 degrees East from the extremity of the cape,
is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third of a mile in diameter;
and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there appeared to be
other islands of the same size and character, the particular form
and situation of which could not be distinguished.
There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the
South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and
forms a bay, the shores of which were not seen.
From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character
from that to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and
either fronted by mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of
which conceal the interior. The coast, at from three to seven
miles, is fronted by a range of low, sandy islets, from one
quarter to two-thirds of a mile in diameter: there are, however,
two or three near Cape Preston of larger size, particularly one
bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from the extremity
of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and apparently
sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in diameter.
It is visible for about five leagues.
Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a
mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large
lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills.
The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence
the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves
for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles
South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.
Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five
miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from
the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally
navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be
found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being
smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is
from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or
sand.
CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a
creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks
are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever
for vessels to visit it. The country behind is low, and, at
spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.
The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance
of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty
miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and
THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a
considerable distance.
BARROW’S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of
moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren
appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its
south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the
north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are
low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow’s Island was seen by the
French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its
north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At
ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French
charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North
10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed
by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to
see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the
French, there can be but little doubt.
LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not
any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in
their chart. From M. de Freycinet’s account, the two latter
islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island
has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western
extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to
be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been
two, we should have seen it on passing this part in 1822.*
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no
doubt in my mind that Barrow’s Island, and Lowendal and
Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello
Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The latitude and
description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the
doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended
upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not
rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the
situations of places formerly determined with their position on
the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very
particular; and never gave the error of their account upon
arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from
carelessness and indifference.
A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17
minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6
seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the
command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in
the Sydney Gazette.
EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it
is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west
Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side
is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not
distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cluster of islands
that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the
entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within
the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones
have been assigned correct positions to, as have all between
Exmouth Gulf and Dampier’s Archipelago. The islets y and z are
the outer ones of the group; between which and the western shore
there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from
danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on
a sandy bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest,
there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom
is generally very rocky. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest,
the shore is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage
in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles
across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side
is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very
much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as
has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with
the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western
side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates
Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It
perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the
only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of
the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.
(*Footnote. Vide below.)
The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates
until its insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of
Geography, the name of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the
bottom of the south-eastern side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so
low and the islands so numerous, that it was in vain that we
attempted to examine its shores, which was also rendered still
more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from our
losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night
from the South-West.
The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full
two miles to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which
was called VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the
cape, but separated from it by a channel half a mile wide, and
six fathoms deep; a sandy spit extends also from the cape for
about a quarter of a mile.
The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees
47 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40
seconds; and Vlaming Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40
seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.
OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF
THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE
LEEUWIN.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this
coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and
February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and
South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to
South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard
gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as
high as Shark’s Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be
approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the
neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds
are almost constant from South-South-West.
Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22
degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two
miles, the shore is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from
three to five miles from it. The land is high and level, and of
most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low,
sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the
coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the
land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is
not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the
latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen,
that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.*
At latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects,
and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking
heavily.
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and
longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy
point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a
bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing
winds.
Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and
sandy; the land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a
sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The
land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising
abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in latitude 24
degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21
minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of
Shark’s Bay. The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and
is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark’s Bay, from M. De
Freycinet’s chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in
Commodore Baudin’s voyage.
The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to,
and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level
summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on
the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island
is the small islet called KOK’S. The channel between Bernier and
Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by
rocks as to be impassable.
DIRK HARTOG’S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in
latitude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6
minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point)
by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark’s Bay.
Dirk Hartog’s Island is high, and of similar appearance to
Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK
HARTOG’S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious
roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and
west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant
winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage.
There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile,
which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the
wind blow hard from the west. The beach of the bay is fronted by
coral rocks, but affords easy landing in all parts, particularly
at high water. This beach is covered with turtles’ nests; and at
daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and embarked without any
difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, since the
rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at high
water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that
there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the
bay, and the shore with ten fathoms.
The following account of Shark’s Bay is taken from M. De
Freycinet’s account (page 189 et seq.)
In the fairway of the entrance to Shark’s Bay, between Dorre
and Dirk Hartog’s Islands, is DAMPIER’S REEF; it is two miles in
extent from east to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two
and a half and three fathoms water over it, and should be
approached with care, on account of the swell. Proceeding
southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east head of Dirk
Hartog’s Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a cove
(barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter.
Hence to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities.
TETRODON BAY is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or
three sandy islets in it, and can only be entered by small boats.
Near Refuge Point is a safe and convenient creek. To the
southward of this there are several shoal bays. To the eastward
of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a moderate elevation,
there are several little creeks well adapted for boats and, to
the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity of the
island. That part of Shark’s Bay, between Dirk Hartog’s Island
and Peron’s Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless
Harbour (Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet’s Harbour: to the
southward of the line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape
Lesueur, the sea is shoal and studded with banks, but to the
north it is quite open.
The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog’s Island from
the main, is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which
protrude from either shore, reduce the passage to half that
width. The depth upon the rocky bar which stretches across the
entrance is six fathoms, but immediately without it the depth is
twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet says, that a ship upon a lee
shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may enter this opening
with confidence; she will find a good shelter and excellent
anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass in
mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and
steer for the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar
without fearing the breakers upon it, which are caused by the
sudden decrease of depth, from twenty-two to six fathoms; after
this the depth will continue without altering more than one
fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of Cape
Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals,
over which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.
USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name,
quite unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to
the bottom, although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY
FREYCINET HARBOUR is twenty-two leagues long in a South-East
direction; and from three to six leagues wide. Its entrance is
blocked up by a bar; and, although the depth within is in some
parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether ships can enter
it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the shoals
extending so far off.
On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets
and deep bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern
shore of the harbour is formed by PERON’S PENINSULA, which
separates it from HAMELIN’S HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long
and five leagues wide. DAMPIER’S BAY, at the north-west end,
contains several sandy bays, where boats may almost always land.
It is here that the French had their observatory.
From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des
Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and
North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the
North-East.
The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin
Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the
shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it.
M. De Freycinet says: “Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne
contiennent aucune coupure; l’uniformite y est par-tout
complete,” page 194.
Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry
Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron’s Peninsula, it is
nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by
banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of
which is about two leagues.
Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the
eastern shore of Shark’s Bay, yet the boats of the French ships
could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it.
Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a
scanty and burnt up vegetation.
Of the anchorages in Shark’s Bay, the most convenient appears
to be that in Dampier’s Bay, at the north-west end of Peron’s
Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the
holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The
Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never
experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the
shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy
bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily
distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a
kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the
strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was
laid in the latter direction.
The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De
Freycinet’s account as regards the navigation of Shark’s Bay. The
coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much
more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information
upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological
observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a
curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects
are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been
disregarded.
From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by
a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the
sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The
coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The
summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no
summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing
them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and
seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood
of Gantheaume Bay.
GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from
South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it,
but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it;
and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant.
The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.
RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity
of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet
high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy
shore commences and continues with little variation, except
occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as
Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior,
some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are
seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and
between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55
minutes, is MORESBY’S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the
north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern
end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees
45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45
seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and
verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy
beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind,
particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore
indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives’ fires, and
the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country
was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part
between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from
ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms
deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.
CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles
to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the
shore.
HOUTMAN’S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very
considerable extent to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a
space of sea, forty-seven miles long, and twenty-five broad. We
only saw the islands at the south end, with three detached reefs
between them and the shore; one of which (the southernmost) may
probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 degrees North
true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel (GEELVINK
CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than
twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is
about three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55
degrees East from the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the
sea was breaking high over it. In passing this part of the coast,
Captain Hamelin, who commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore
Baudin’s orders, must have steered within the reefs, as the
Geelvink (Vlaming’s ship) did. The reef that is laid down upon
the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is from Van Keulen.
We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)
From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29
degrees 16 minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south
is another; they lie from five to seven miles from the shore.
In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small
peaked hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small
sandy patch upon the land.
Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55
minutes, we did not see the coast, having passed it in the night.
It is laid down from Van Keulen’s chart. Hence to Island Point,
which is low and rocky, the shore is lined with reefs, extending
off shore for two to four miles. At the back of this, and at
about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky range, of three
leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.
To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs;
the southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in
it. The coast to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30
degrees 37 minutes, are three small rocky lumps, very remarkably
placed; the middle one is in latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40
seconds: fourteen miles to the south of these are two others, the
north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes 50
seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of bare
white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for
eighty miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is
low and slightly wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some
places extend for two miles from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT
(in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) is a reef, lying six miles
and a half from the shore; it appeared to be connected with the
rocks that line the coast.
The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De
Freycinet’s account of Baudin’s voyage (page 175 et seq).
“The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes
31 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East
of Paris, or (115 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of
Greenwich). The channel is obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it
is very difficult to pass over, and, indeed, impracticable if the
wind blows from the sea. On entering, the passage is on the
starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided into two
channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of
water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the
course must then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which
are upon the right bank: after half a mile the navigation is
free, and in mid-channel the depth is not less than seven, eight,
and nine feet. The river then trends in a northerly direction for
seven miles, without any sinuosity of consequence. On the eastern
bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on the opposite side of
the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond these banks
the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low
point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank
fronts this point, and the channel continues on the western
shore, ten feet deep. Here the river is a mile broad; it then
increases its width, and forms spacious bays on either side, that
were not examined. To the South-East is an opening, which may
probably be an arm of the river; it was called MOREAU INLET; it
was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, fronted by a
shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, with
thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two
miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked
up by shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth
is not more than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens
gradually from five to fifteen feet: the banks of the river are
then not more than one-third of a mile wide, and then continue in
a serpentine course, with a channel from seven to ten feet deep,
and free from shoals, as far as the French boats examined it. The
stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds through a valley,
one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when it ceases
to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the
other.”
In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two
only are of large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored
on the north side of the former, but broke the fluke, from the
rocky nature of the bottom. On the North-East side of the island,
the anchorage is better, since it is more sheltered. Rottnest
Island is five miles long: it was discovered by Vlaming in 1696.
Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon,
particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by
rocks. Off its north point there are some rocky islets, and on
the north-east side a convenient landing place in a sandy bay,
where boats may put ashore with great facility. The island is
covered with a pine-like tree, which is very good for fire-wood,
but no fresh water was found in any part; the French were equally
unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of Rottnest
Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115
degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees
50 minutes West. BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De
Freycinet’s account (page 170) is equally difficult to land upon;
it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh water.
To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for
seventy miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the
northward and north-west; its western head is formed by Cape
Naturaliste, a rocky point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30
seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond
which the coast extends to the southward, without any bays to
Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste Reef, in latitude 33
degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 minutes 8
seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here
of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable
patch of bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and
longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche
remarquable of De Freycinet’s chart. It lies about seven miles
from the south extreme of the island.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.
OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST.
DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL
REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.
SOUTH COAST.
Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the
weather is generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at
certain seasons, very much against a ship making the western
passage from Port Jackson, which is by passing through Bass
Strait, and along the south coast; but it so happens that at the
time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, by reason
of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to
that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and
are more regular and strong in that space between the land and
the parallel of Bass Strait.* I have been told that the
south-westerly gales that sometimes occur during that season,
seldom, if ever, blow home upon the coast; and that when they do
reach the land, they partake more of the character of the sea
breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the westward should
keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by the
regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel
generally blows from some western quarter. From April to October
the westerly gales are very constant, and veer between South by
West and North by East; but, in the months of June and July,
seldom veer to the southward of South-West or northward of
North-West; they are then accompanied by a deep and heavy sea.
The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves with the sun,
and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the
South-East, with fine weather.
(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page
506.)
The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as
its rise always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change
from the North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than
twenty-nine and a half inches. The currents generally set to the
north, and seldom run with any velocity either to the east or
west. A ship steering along this coast to the eastward, bound to
Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer upon the
parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to
the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind,
that would otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass
Strait, she would be detained probably a week.
Upon making Van Diemen’s Land, she is ready for either a
northerly or a southerly wind; since, with the former, she can
round Van Diemen’s Land, without suffering much detention, or
materially lengthening her voyage.
KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND was discovered by Captain
Vancouver in the year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the
North-west Coast of America. It offers an excellent resort for
vessels, and is convenient for all the purposes of refitting,
wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; the banks of
Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other
shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with
fish and birds.
There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best
place for a large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging
at the same time that she is completing her wood and water, is
PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but for a small vessel, not drawing more
than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is
secured to within one hundred yards of the shore, and therefore
better situated for the protection of her people at their
occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily
visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is
a sandy bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two
or three streams of excellent water run into the sea over the
sand, from which a ship might complete her hold in a day or two,
by digging a well to collect it. Wood may also be procured at
this place, but not of so large a size, or perhaps of so good a
quality as at other parts. This bay is readily found, by its
being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that projects
from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being
the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky
islet at the back of Seal Island.
The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and
is sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and
MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the
first sandy beach to the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat
rocky islet bearing west, in six or seven fathoms sand and weeds,
should be preferred during the summer months; for the easterly
winds then prevail, and sometimes blow strong, even as late as
March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in the direction of
East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, and even
in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not
greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant
consequence.
There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy
bay above mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that
can send boats with men enough to protect themselves while
employed in filling the casks, for notwithstanding the friendly
communication we have had with the inhabitants of this sound,
they are not to be trusted, unless their character is different
from the rest of their countrymen that we have seen.
Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by
digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at
the latter place, the stream that we used outside the bar affords
plenty, of excellent quality, without the trouble of digging.
Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and
a half feet at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high
water; but it is likely that, at spring-tides, there may be
fourteen feet, or perhaps more if the wind is blowing into the
harbour; but during the springs high water always takes place at
night, and it would not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass
the bar at that time.
A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off
the sandy beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that
is, between the breakers off the point and the bar, in three
fathoms sand, bringing the summit of Green Island, in the
harbour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the west point of
entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea Island in a line with
the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be sent to sound
the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western summit
of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a
little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.
After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the
centre of the flat land is kept midway between the points of
entrance, avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky
point at the west end of the watering beach. The strongest winds
are from the westward, and therefore bower anchors should be
placed to the south-west and north-west: warps and the stream
cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly winds, as
the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the
run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the
edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a
sufficient quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can
pass over it.
The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours,
and ebbed eight hours. High water at full and change took place
at 10 hours 10 minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall
was very irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great
attention to the depth, if her draught is more than ten feet, for
it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. The spring-tides take place
about the third or fourth day after new or full moon. The
variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of Seal
Island, from Captain Flinders’ observations, is in latitude 35
degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58
minutes 7 seconds.
A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been
seen in latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees
2 minutes East; but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was
seen the same day, which is not less than one hundred and fifty
leagues from the above position, it appears too vague to be
correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)
BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen’s Land, in
Bass Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the
southward on Captain Flinders’ chart.
BELL’S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr.
Bell, the Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound
passage to New South Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South
Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of December, 1824.
“On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped
striking on a rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass
Strait, on the south side of King’s Island. Reid’s rocks bearing
North six miles, and the Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this
situation the danger was about half a mile off (to the
southward); but as the water broke only at intervals of three or
four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it is probable
there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over it.
An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the
time 40 degrees 26 minutes.”
In M. De Freycinet’s chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets
are placed forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not
succeed in finding them, although the Mermaid sailed close to
their position. (See volume 1.)
The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five
miles too much to the northward: its true situation is in
latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147
degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.
A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off
Cape Albany Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)
There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions
assigned to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and
Captain Flinders; the former made the difference between the
meridian of Albatross Island, and that of the rock in
Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by the latter it
is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw the
north end of KING’S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his
having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his
difference of longitude between its north-west point and the
centre of Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from
the French, who surveyed that island with great care.
Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time
near the north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through
Bass Strait to the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island
without using great caution. The best passage is on the south
side of Kent’s Group, between it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT’S
ROCK) to the south-east.
In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and
about two miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks
upon it. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)
There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders’ chart
of Van Diemen’s Land, with respect to the latitudes of the
South-west Cape, the Mewstone, the South cape, and the land
between them. The first is laid down 8 minutes too much to the
North 30 degrees West (true) and the other places in proportion.
The corrected situations are given in the second volume of this
work.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.
DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
REEFS, EAST COAST.
ELIZABETH’S REEF (see Horsburgh’s Supp. page 52) in latitude
30 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered
by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of
May, 1820. Within two cables’ length of the reef, they found
fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile off the depth was
twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not reached.
It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the
centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show
at intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the
reef extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one
mile, but the greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and
East-South-East.
MIDDLETON’S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and
longitude 158 degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page
508.)
CATO’S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude
155 degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh
volume 2 page 509.)
WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds,
and longitude 155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume
2 page 330 and Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the
master of the ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having
taken a departure the day before from Sandy Cape. It extends east
and west for a considerable distance: the ship passed round the
western extremity at two miles off, and found its bearing from
Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one hundred and
seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 minutes,
and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not
seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five
to twenty feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp.
page 35.)
SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ’ SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in
latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46
minutes by chronometer, which was found correct on making Sandy
Cape a day or two afterwards. There is reason to suppose that
many other reefs exist to the North-West of this position.
KENN’S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the
ship William Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia,
extends in the direction of North West by North 1/2 North for ten
miles, and is composed of sand and rocks, some of which, at the
south end, were six or eight feet out of the water: it is six
miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in latitude 21
degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by
chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees
West, six miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.
BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs,
Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was
embarrassed for three days, in which interval he was sounding in
between nineteen and forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed
shoal parts, upon which the sea was breaking. The limits assigned
by this officer to the extent of the rocky ground, are the
parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees 50 minutes,
and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees 30
minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a
chain of rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158
degrees 30 minutes East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings
in eight fathoms, with the appearance of shoaler water to the
South-West; this last danger is in a line between the two shoals
in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. (See Horsburgh Supp.
page 35.)
BAMPTON’S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of
not less than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end
are two islets with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its
south-west extremity: they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the
ship Avon, September 18, 1823; and are described by him as being
three-quarters of a mile in circumference, twenty feet high, and
the sea between them twenty fathoms deep. At four miles North
East by North from them the vessel sounded in twelve fathoms, and
at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to the
South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat
landed on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited
only by birds, but clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By
observation, these islands were found to lie in latitude 19
degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees 6 minutes.
A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern’s Atlas of the Pacific
Ocean (1824) in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees,
and is there called MELLISH REEF.
A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east
extremity of which is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44
minutes, and longitude 150 degrees 32 minutes; it is of
semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 degrees 2
minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.
VINE’S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude
20 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it
presents its convex, or outer edge, to the Southward, and extends
as far as fifteen miles to the South and East.
DIANA’S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and
longitude 150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page
509.)
BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees
45 minutes, and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152
degrees 30 minutes, there are several very extensive reefs,
various parts of which have been seen, according to the following
accounts.
Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46
minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of
the shoal described by M. Tregrosse.
Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw
A REEF extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and
South-West direction. The Alert ran along the reef for
twenty-five miles: about the centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand
islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, and longitude 151
degrees 49 minutes.
LIHOU’S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by
Lieutenant Vine and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees
25 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six
miles in length, and lies North-North-East and
South-South-West.
A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M.
Tregrosse, of the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with
the brig Jessie, in 1821, according to the subjoined account.
On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a
range of reefs, terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets,
the easternmost of which is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149
degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the vessels hauled to the wind
immediately, but finding they could not pass to windward, bore
up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four p.m., at the
distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted seven
islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole
connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily:
they were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR’S GROUP: the westernmost islet
is in 17 degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149
degrees 7 minutes East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the
group. As it was near sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for
the night, and at daylight bore up on a north course: soon
afterwards they saw an islet West-North-West; they, however,
continued to steer North until eight o’clock, and then, having
run nine miles, saw another island North-North-East. On
attempting to steer between the isles, they were found to be
connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels bore
up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive
reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to
be clear.
The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and
150 degrees 43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of
Paris) and the westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South,
and 150 degrees 32 minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of
Paris). A space of ten or twelve leagues between Governor
Farquhar’s Group and that seen the preceding day was passed in
the night, and probably may contain other reefs. The last group
was named TREGROSSE’S ISLETS.
NORTH COAST.
The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait
in 1817; it seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and
about fifty yards broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes,
and longitude 140 degrees 50 minutes.
In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine
coral banks, that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs;
that which Captain Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven
fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 minutes latitude, and 129 degrees
28 minutes longitude. The Alert also passed over a shoal patch
with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, and 129 degrees 8
minutes East.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no
means so large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval,
however, there are probably many reefs, which have been
occasionally seen. Captain Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11
degrees 35 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 10 minutes, and
there are shoal soundings in crossing it on the following parts,
namely:
COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.
COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.
COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.
12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.
16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.
12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.
15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.
All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See
Horsburgh volume 1 page 103.)
CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry
sand bank surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the
northward. It is in 12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees
56 minutes East, by chronometer.
Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of
one in latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees
25 minutes; and the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124
degrees 5 minutes.
HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the
ship Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a
shoal, four miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction.
It is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123
degrees 28 minutes, by chronometers.
Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of
which are detailed in the following letter.
“The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th
June, 1811, by a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11
minutes South, longitude by chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30
seconds (allowing the south head of Port Jackson to be in 151
degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward of the barrier of
black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, were several
sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared to
have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet
above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East
and South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by
North direction for six or seven miles,” It is distinguished on
the chart by the name of ASHMORE’S SHOAL.
SCOTT’S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered
by Captain Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in
latitude 13 degrees 52 1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes;
thence it extends South 16 degrees East for eighteen or nineteen
miles to the north-east point, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute,
and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the south extent was not
ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from the situation
assigned to Dampier’s Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a shoal
hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is
little doubt of Scott’s Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as
well as that on which the Cartier struck.
ROWLEY’S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the
westernmost is the Imperieuse, the middle Clerke’s, and the
north-easternmost the Mermaid’s. The Imperieuse is ten miles in
length from north to south, and its greatest breadth five miles:
it is surrounded by very deep water and near the eastern edge, in
latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 degrees 51
minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke’s Shoal (south end in
latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes)
extends to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel’s
Shoal, which is described below, and, if this is the case, trends
North-North-West 1/2 West for seventeen miles. The south end of
Mermaid’s Shoal is in 17 degrees 12 minutes South, and 119
degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to the northward for seven
miles; but its termination in that direction was not seen. The
edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was obtained
with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however,
there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and
seventy to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume
1 page 101.)
MINSTREL’S SHOAL (see Horsburgh’s Supp. page 52) its
north-east end is in 17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees
57 minutes East, or 5 degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer,
from the coast of New Holland in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes
South. The longitude of that part of the coast by my survey, is
113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the Minstrel’s Shoal in
119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with Clerke’s
Reef, the centre reef of Rowley’s Shoals, of which it is
certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes.
A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about
16 degrees 30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East.
RITCHIE’S REEF, or the Greyhound’s Shoal. The situation of
this reef is recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to
be in latitude 19 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees
40 1/4 minutes; but, by a letter published in the Sydney Gazette
by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the commander, it would appear to be
in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, longitude by lunars 114
degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds.
ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN’S LAND.
The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water
off the south-east coast of Van Diemen’s Land, in latitude 44
degrees, and longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes.
A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in
latitude 43 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15
minutes.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 8.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS
THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.
INNER ROUTE.
The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing
through Torres Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray’s
Island; by which route a two-days’ passage will carry a ship past
all danger: but, as the space between Wreck Reef and Murray’s
Island is strewed with dangers, many of which have been
discovered since the publication of his charts, and of which the
greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be called
a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands,
surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights
a vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which
must be the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable
loss of the crew. The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps
in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812.
It was subsequently followed by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in
the command of the hired armed vessel Kangaroo, on her passage
from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This officer drew a chart,
with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, considering the
shortness of his time, and other circumstances that prevented his
obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so
intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he
filled up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction,
which Captain Cook did not see; the only part that had previously
been left a blank upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline
was found to be tolerably correct, and my alterations have only
been caused by better opportunities, and by the greater detail of
my operations. The general feature of the coast has scarcely
required correction; the principal corrections have been in the
number, size, and relative bearings of the coral reefs and
islands that front it.
(*Footnote. Horsburgh’s Indian Directory volume 2
page 514.)
In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are
magnetic; and the courses are freed from the effect of tide or
current, since they are only temporary, and often of trifling
importance.*
(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference
should be made to the description of the coast contained in this
Appendix.)
DIRECTIONS.
Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders’ chart sheet
3) in the evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on
through the night; after running, therefore, to the
West-North-West for five or six leagues, bring to until daylight:
but, if the day is before you, the course from the extremity of
the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred miles.
You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your
way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady
Elliot’s Island, and also within the southernmost islet of
Bunker’s Group, by which you will see how the current has
affected your course, and you can act accordingly: if it has set
you to the northward, you may pass on either side of or through
the islands without danger. After making Cape Capricorn, you may
leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your course
about North West by North, pass either within or without the
Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the
Percy Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland
Islands.
After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that
bears from it North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters,
and from 1st Peak South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the
night, pass close round Number 3, when, its situation being
known, you can easily avoid it.
The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but
that to the westward of them, being better known, is therefore
recommended as the safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid’s
or Bathurst’s tracks, which will carry a ship round the
projections of the coast as far as Cape Grafton, as far as which,
if the weather is fine, there can be no danger of proceeding
through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape
Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently,
great care must be used.
On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and,
when its north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for
thirty-five miles; you will then be a league to the South-East of
a group of low isles; if it should be night when you pass them,
come no nearer to them than fourteen fathoms. In steering this
course, great care should be taken, not to go too much to the
eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. (See above.)
If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished,
but otherwise it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This
course will carry a ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings
will be in seventeen, eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the
low isles direct your course for the Hope Islands, which bear
from the former North 18 degrees West thirty-eight miles, but the
course had better be within that line, to avoid some reefs in
latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, within five
miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be steered
either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better
route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the
distance of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid
reef a. When you are abreast of its north end, steer North by
West westerly for twenty-eight miles; this will carry you to Cape
Bedford which you may round at from one to three or four miles.
You will see in your way, at three miles and a half from the
north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles from it
you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass
Captain Cook’s Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north
end. These three reefs will be to the eastward of your
course.
The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must
be directed accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will
discern the summits which are marked on the chart. The high
conical hill, on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour
River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, crossed with the summit
of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized summits or points
will give the vessel’s place, by which the effects of the
current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on
one occasion we found a current in the space between the
Endeavour Reef and Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the
North-West.
Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West,
you will see the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the
low wooded island; and direct your course round Cape Flattery and
Point Lookout, to anchor under the Turtle Group, unless you have
time before dark to reach the islands 4, 5, or 6, of Howick’s
Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In rounding Point
Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to avoid
a reef that is on Captain Cook’s chart, but which we did not see;
it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the
extremity of the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or
you will find anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not
recommended, both because the wind is generally fresher as you
increase your distance from the shore, and because it lengthens
the distance.
From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until
you see the hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick’s
Group: then pass inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between
islet 4 and Cole’s Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s,
t, and u. The Mermaid’s track will direct the course to Cape
Melville. If the day is late when abreast of 6, of Howick’s
Group, anchorage had better be secured under it, as there is none
to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders.
Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders’ Group
will be seen; and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef
that projects off the Cape (the extremity of which bears from it
by compass North West by North, and from Pipon’s Island
South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in doing which steer within
the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the course for the
extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the course and
distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a
low woody island will be left on the starboard hand.
His Majesty’s sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small
reef, bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the
cape, distant about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a
stone’s throw of the cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The
best anchorage here is under the flat-topped hill, at a third of
a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling
round the cape, avoid a shoal which extends for a short distance
from the shore on its western side.
If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run
fifteen miles further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but,
indeed, anchorage may be obtained under any of the reefs or
islets between this part and Cape Grenville, for the bottom is
universally of mud; and by anchoring with the body of a reef,
bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently sheltered from the
sea, which is generally smooth.
On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about
twenty-three miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d,
e, and f to the southward, of the course; then haul up about
North-West 3/4 North, and steer within the reef l and Pelican
Island, and to seaward of the Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which
are low and woody.
When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be
seen, which should be passed at from one to two miles, and the
course North by West 1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which
you may pass on either side of, the channel between them being
quite safe. If you take the latter course, steer north, within
the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low rock that
covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and
pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off
Cape Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night
Island; and, when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near
the covered shoal v, when the course may be directed within
Sherrard’s Islets and reef 10 (on which there is a sandy islet
covered with some bushes) and then steer round Cape
Direction.
Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you
within the reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet
that lies off Restoration Island: continuing this course you
will, at about five miles beyond the cape, see the long reef e;
steer North-West parallel with its edge, which extends until you
are abreast of Fair Cape, where it terminates with a very narrow
point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and pass between the two
easternmost Piper’s Islands and the reefs h, i, and k; then pass
on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston’s Island, and
round the outermost of Sir Everard Home’s Group.
The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous
as not to require particular mention: the north-west end of every
reef will afford shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped
too near, because the tide sweeps round the edge with greater
strength than it does at half a mile off, within which distance
the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is advanced and the
breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because the
anchorages between it and Piper’s Islands are rather exposed; and
a vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will
easily reach Piper’s Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark.
The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by
Sunday Island, which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a
safe place to stop at.
In passing round Sir Everard Home’s Islands, steer wide from
them, to avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it
sets to the North-West across the course. The course is then
about North-West 1/4 West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the
reef v, about North West by North; the better and more direct
plan is to pass within v and w (there is, however, a safe channel
between them) and when abreast of the west end of the latter, the
course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 West, and the
distance about eighteen miles.
There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape
York, it would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the
night, in about fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island
bearing South-East, but not nearer than half a mile, because,
within that distance, the bottom is rocky.
Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West
until Escape River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x:
steer within it about North West by North, which will take you
inside the covered reef z. Your course then must be round the
Albany Islands, and hence North West by North for a, which is a
rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the Albany Isles.
The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait
is not to be recommended for a large ship, on account of the
shoal water that extends from Wallis’ Isles towards Shoal Cape;
but the route round the north end of Wednesday and Hammond’s
Islands is preferable. Upon passing reef a, Wednesday Island will
be seen: in steering towards it, avoid standing too close to the
rocky islet that is abreast of the strait between it and Horned
Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about a quarter of
a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at half a
mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to
the northward of the rock off Hammond’s Island. Having passed
this rock, steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the
south-west end of Hammond’s Island, haul towards a reef, to the
southward of the course, on which you will see some dry rocks,
which you may pass within half a mile of: you will then avoid
reef d, which is generally, if not always, covered: the fairway
of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep.
When the summit of Good’s Island bears South-West by West,
steer West by South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will
avoid Larpent’s bank, and when you have passed it, you are clear
of the strait. Hence you may steer West 3/4 South through the
night, on which course you will very gradually deepen your
water.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 9.
TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED
DURING THE MERMAID’S AND BATHURST’S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF
AUSTRALIA.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 10.
UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED
POINTS OF THE SURVEY.
The observations for determining the longitudes of the various
parts of the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by
Troughton: besides these valuable instruments we had three
chronometers of Arnold’s make, namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket)
and 394 (pocket); of which the two first were supplied by the
Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in consequence of 394
having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by Parkinson and
Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and proved
to be a most excellent watch.
The situations of the following places, which were either
fixed by us or adapted from other authorities, served as the
basis of the chronometrical determination of the longitudes of
the intermediate parts.
The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of
Sydney Cove in PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and
otherwise Bennelong Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes
28 seconds South and longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East,
being, according to the ensuing table, the mean of all the
observations that have been taken.
PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end
of this island is by Captain Flinders’ observation in 150 degrees
13 minutes East. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was
placed within a few yards of the shore on the south side of the
entrance (the summit of the highest bush near the extremity of
the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass West 3 degrees 40
minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 degrees 27
minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49
seconds. (See note, Appendix A.)
GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle
Rock, the largest of two rocky islets at the north end of
South-west Bay; but the results were so doubtful and
unsatisfactory, that the longitude determined by the chronometers
was preferred. The following are the observations that were taken
to fix its situation, namely:
Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on
the sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced
by survey to Bottle Rock 11 37 24.
The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini
Island by chronometers, taken in:
1819: 7 40 47.
1820: 7 40 00.
1821: 7 38 28.
Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39
45.
Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125
38 46.
Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island:
133 18 31.
The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken
during the years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the
rock 133 degrees 31 minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage
the mean of the Bathurst’s and Dick’s watches made it 133 degrees
19 minutes 40 seconds, which was finally adapted, since it
accorded better with the chronometrical difference between its
meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never been able to
account for this extraordinary disagreement between the results
of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former
were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to
be very good.
CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of
observations, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South,
and 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a
note.)
KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND. The longitude of this place was
adapted from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as
follows; namely:
The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour.
Latitude 35 degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117
degrees 56 minutes 22 seconds.
The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head
(the first sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6
minutes, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds.
COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the
flag-staff of FORT CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated,
is in latitude 10 degrees 9 minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123
degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, according to the observations of
Captain Flinders.
APPENDIX B.
CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE
SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING’S
SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port
Jackson, in the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent
had been visited by very few navigators who have recorded any
account of the productions of its Animal Kingdom. The first
authentic report that we have, is that of Vlaming, who is
celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the black
swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in
his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several
of the productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but
the harvest was reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions
of Cook, whose names are so well and widely known in the fields
of science. These distinguished naturalists were the first
collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales; and although their
labours were not confined to any particular branch of Natural
History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which
the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof.
Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood
of the colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of
White, Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and
Jamison; and in this interval the coasts have been visited by two
English and two French expeditions of discovery; namely, those
commanded by Admiral D’Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and
Flinders, and Commodore Baudin. The first merely touched upon the
south coast at the Recherche’s Archipelago, and on the south
shores of Van Diemen’s Land; and the second only at King George
the Third’s Sound, near the South-west Cape; but these
opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of
Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists,
notwithstanding they have been since eclipsed by the more
extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown, whose collections of Natural
History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders, and his pre-eminent
qualifications, have justly raised him to the pinnacle of
botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly
elevated.
Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin’s voyage, extended their
inquiries chiefly among the branches of zoological research; but
in that expedition each department of Natural History had its
separate collector, and the names of Leschenault de la Tour,
Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be forgotten. Unfortunately,
the Natural History of this voyage has never yet been given to
the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to its
publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up
by MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the
form of monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the
greater part is yet untouched, probably from the want of the
valuable information which died with its collector. M. Peron, in
his historical account of that expedition, notices a few subjects
of zoology that were collected by him, but in so vague a manner,
that it is with very great doubt that the specimens which we
procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be compared with
his descriptions. Of the Natural History collections of Captain
Flinders and Mr. Brown, no account has been published, excepting
the valuable botanical works of the latter gentleman.
With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this
expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the
Animal Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have
been so trifling in number; and that the students of Natural
History should have suffered disappointment in what might, at
first view, be fairly considered to have arisen from neglect and
careless attention to the subject; but as the principal, and
almost the only, object of the voyage was the survey of the
coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly considered the
most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological collection was
out of the question. The very few specimens that are now offered
to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered;
but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact
obliged to be left behind from want of room, and from our not
possessing apparatus for collecting and preserving them.
A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan
Cunningham, was attached to the expedition; and this gentleman
did not fail to make a very extensive and valuable collection in
his department, the whole of which is preserved at Kew.
In making out the Appendix, every species brought home
(excepting three or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake
of furnishing materials for the students of Geographical Zoology.
The distribution of animals is a branch of study that has been
very much neglected, which is to be lamented, as it appears
likely to offer a very great assistance to the systematic
Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the Isle
of France have been added to the list.
For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds,
reptiles, and shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of
the British Museum. Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the
use of his collection, and his valuable advice with respect to
the few specimens of birds that were preserved; and Mr. W.S.
MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable description of my
entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr. Cunningham
for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown, for
his description of a new tree from King George the Third’s Sound;
and lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a
very interesting geological notice from the specimens that have
been presented to the Geological Society of London, of which he
is one of the most active and scientific members.
VERTEBRATA.
MAMMALIA.
BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC.
1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109.
Madagascar Bat, Edwards’ Birds, t. 108.
Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45.
Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson.
This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west
Coast, appears to agree with Edwards’ figure, and with the
specimen preserved in the British Museum. There is also one in
the collection of the Linnean Society from Port Jackson. Large
flights of these animals were observed at Port Keats and in
Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat seems also to
be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster describes
having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree.
Forster, page 187.
2. Canis australiae.
Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191.
Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw’s Zool. 1 278, t. 76.
This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson,
and dogs, to all appearance of the same species, are found on all
parts of the coast. Captain King presented a living specimen to
Sir Everard Home, Bart., who sent it to Exeter Change. In
considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am
supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean
Transactions 13.) (*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed
by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the place alluded to.–P.P.K. [added in
“errata”])
Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which
particular they agree with the Linnean account of the American
dog; that, in their appearance and cunning disposition, they
resemble the fox; and although occasionally domesticated in New
South Wales, they never lose the sly habits peculiar to their
breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry or biting
sheep.
This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from
that found in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as
being “of a singular race: they mostly resemble the common cur,
but have prodigious large heads, remarkably little eyes, prick
ears, long hair, and a short bushy tail. They are chiefly fed
with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the Low Isles and New
Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they live upon
fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK, only
howl now and then.” Forster’s Observations, page 189.
3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres
Austral. ij. 75.
The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of
Peron, was brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one
intended by these authors, there is great room to doubt. I am
informed that specimens of Peron’s animal are in the Paris
Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic Cuvier, who have both lately
written upon seals, have only copied the very short specific
character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is gray,
covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly
fur. The ears are short, conical.
It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest
(the Phoca falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly
substance under the hair (called fur by the seal-fishers) and by
the length of the ear, which in the latter species, described by
Shaw, is long and awl-shaped.
(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take
for this species, was brought by Captain Peake from New South
Shetland: it differs from Pennant’s, and consequently from all
succeeding descriptions that are taken from him, in having five
instead of four claws and toes to the hind foot.)
Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is
found at Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George
the Third’s Sound. It appeared also to be the same species that
frequents Shark’s Bay; and, if it is M. Peron’s Otaria cinerea,
it is also found as far to the eastward as Kangaroo Island.
The head is deposited in the Linnean Society’s collection.
4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403.
Didelphis sciurea, Shaw’s Zool. 1 t. 113.
Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson.
A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought
home and deposited in the British Museum.
5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270.
Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw’s Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114.
Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts.
Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405.
Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson.
This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the
opossum tribe, is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port
Jackson. It was first described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New
Holland. There are several specimens in the Linnean Society’s
collection. The above is placed in the British Museum.
6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ?
Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville.
Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21.
Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f.
1.
A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home
and deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This
animal is very common upon the northern coasts of New
Holland.
Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of
New South Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland,
abound in cetaceous animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within
the reefs, the sea is crowded with Balaena physalis, Linn., or
fin-backed whales, as they are called by the whalers, who pay
little attention to them, on account of the danger of approaching
them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical situations from
these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water close
to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and
their occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down
with a crushing weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous
hue, but a few were noticed that were variegated black and white.
The whales of the North-west Coast appeared to be of the same
species, but of a darker colour. At one of the anchorages, near
Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91) the brig was for a whole night
surrounded by these enormous fish, and the crew in momentary
dread of their falling on board, the consequence of which would
have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the water,
on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon.
AVES.
THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE
LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO
THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE INSERTED.
1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson.
Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250.
Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25.
This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge
Gulf, on the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by
a strong land wind.
2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier.
Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27.
Piping roller, Latham, 3 86.
3. Barita varia. Cuvier.
Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173.
Pied roller, Latham, 3 86.
This appears to be a young specimen.
4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger.
Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30.
Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46.
Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240.
This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South
Wales north of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of
the North-west Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend
as wide as twenty-four degrees of latitude, and twenty-six
degrees of longitude. This specimen was taken at Endeavour River,
on the East Coast. There is also another specimen of this bird in
the Linnean Society’s collection, that was taken in the
neighbourhood of Port Jackson.
5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin.
Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276.
Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161.
This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern
Coast.
The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr.
Latham in the Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree
in no respect with that genus, as originally characterized by
Linnaeus, much less with it as it has been modified by modern
ornithologists. Whether we consider, according to M. Cuvier,*
that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea tristis, Linn., or,
according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula religiosa,
Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to
acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential
characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which
it bears the closest resemblance in its general appearance;
particularly by a similar disposition of its colours, and in the
structure of its bill, wings, and legs. I would at once refer it
to that genus, but that I have some reason to think that it
belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are so abundant in New
Holland, and which have been observed to assume the appearance of
almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of that
country, which have been decided to be meliphagous, such as the
Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4
166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and which differ
little from the bird before us, have so many external relations
with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange
themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the
totally different structure of their tongue, and the consequent
difference in their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of
feeding of the bird at present before us, I can myself say
nothing decisively, not having had leisure or opportunity, as I
have already observed, of attending to the more interesting
details of Natural History during the expedition. But general
opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction;
and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is
closely allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a
new genus, to referring them to one, from which, although they
agree with it in external appearance, they may be totally remote,
in consequence of their internal anatomy and habits of life. The
error at least will not be so great, and may be easily retrieved.
If the tongue of my birds be found to accord with that of the
Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group of course must
fall.
(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.)
(**Footnote. Analyse d’un Syst. Gen. d’Orn. page
52.)
(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate
4.)
Genus MIMETES.*
(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming
the appearance of a different group.])
Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque
apice emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus,
membrano partim tectis.
Lingua ad sugendum idonea ?
Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta
aequalibus; 3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his
paulo breviori: remigum 3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis
in medio gradatim productis.
Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque;
paratarsiis integris.
Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis.
6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim
striatus; alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis,
hac apice albo.
Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28.
Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio
longitudinaliter fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores
nigro-fuscae, ad apicem albido-marginatae; inferiores albido
nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra fuscae, ad marginem externum
apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus pallide fuscae.
Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus, duabus
mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes
nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem
3tiam, 5 7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1
2/10, ad rictum, 1 3/10.
(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their
component parts.)
capite dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi
flavoque variegatis.
Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio
fusco-lineatae, hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores
nigrae, apice flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis
clausis, fasciam conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin
nigro-notatae. Remiges supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis
anguste, secondariis late, apice flavo-marginatis; pogoniis
externis anguste, internis late, flavo-marginatis. Rectrices
supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus pallidiores,
omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali
notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam
rostrum M. viridis. Pedes nigri.
The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M.
viridis: the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat
higher, and more carinated. The above descriptions will point out
the specific differences between the two birds, which are
strongly apparent, not merely by the M. flavo-cinctus being
marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but by the
general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M.
flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles,
particularly in the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing,
when closed by the junction of the apical spots on the quill
coverts.
8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756.
Bris. 5 163. t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774.
This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the
north extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen
already in the Linnean Society’s collection, that was taken in
the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size
than most of those with which I have compared it, is probably a
young specimen. The rufous band on the breast is narrower than is
usual in the species, originating probably from the same
circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely.
Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine
Islands. It appears to have a very extensive range, as it
inhabits lands both in the North and South Pacific, as well as in
the Indian Ocean.
9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.)
H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque
basi, albis; remigibus primoribus totis nigris.
Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices
inferiores primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad
marginem exteriorem nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta;
remiges primores supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; uropygium album
parce nigro variegatum.
Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae
a carpo ad remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10;
caudae, 5.
Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have
lately been added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a
native of Brazil, and H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird
above described approaches more closely to the European species
(H. ostralegus) than to the other two; but may be distinguished
from it by the following characters, namely:
In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird
by six inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the
white collar round the neck, which is a very distinctive
character of H. ostralegus; the fascia on the wing is confined to
the extremity of the secondary quill feathers alone, whilst in
the other bird it extends to some of the wing coverts: the
primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas the other
has them partially variegated with white: the under wing coverts
also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer
secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the
under wing coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium
also, which in the European bird is entirely white, is in our
specimen partially variegated with black. The marginal webs of
the toes are much more dilated. The whitish lunular mark under
the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting in our species, of
which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish tinge, of
the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the shores
of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red
Bill.
10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558.
The Little Penguin, Latham.
This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The
above specimen was found at King George the Third’s Sound near
the south-west extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens
in the collection marked 9 a, and 9 b.
11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot.
Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572.
Frigate Bird.
This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all
parts of the Atlantic within or near the Tropic.
12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804.
Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275.
Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5.
Hawkesworth’s Coll. of Voyages, 3 652.
Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447.
There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked
12 a, and 12 b.
13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.)
S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis,
caudaque canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis.
Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae
primoribus obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis
fere ad apicem albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi
apiceque albis; rostrum subflavum; pedes nigri.
Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13
1/2; caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6;
tarsi, 1 1/6.
The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more
closely united to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front
than is usual among the Terns: it is also to be observed, that
the side of the nail of the middle toe is considerably dilated,
although not serrated, similar to what is observed among the
Pelecanidae. These characters offer a corroboration of the
affinity of the Sternae to the family of the Pelecanidae, and
particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the Terns
more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller
size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean
Transactions 14 505). It may also be stated on the other hand,
that the same membrane of the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from
its own genus, and approaches the Pelecanidae, in its being more
dilated than usual. The wings are longer than the tail for a
considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces another
character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate
bird.
14. Larus georgii (n.s.)
L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia
media atra.
Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide
maxime angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae
apice albo, infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes
flavi.
Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18
3/4; mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6;
tarsi, 2 11/12; caudae, 8 1/2.
This bird was found at King George the Third’s Sound, on the
South-west Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island.
REPTILIA.
BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.
Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray.
Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta.
Gula pennulis plicatis ornata.
Pedibus quatuor.
Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus.
Cauda elongata, subcylindrica.
Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the
side, midway between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum
of the ear naked; the front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in
the upper, and four in the lower jaw); the hinder ones largest;
the side or cheek teeth compressed, short, forming a single
ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short, fleshy, with an
oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its front
part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large
plaited frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage
arising from the upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the
middle, by an elongation of the side fork of the bone of the
tongue; body compressed; legs rather long, especially the hinder
ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with five toes, the
first having two, the second three, the third four, the fourth
five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws
compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly.
This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but
differs from them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the
neck.
1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.)
C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula
antice serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore.
Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts.
Icon. Table A. Natural size.
Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia.
The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head
depressed, with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the
upper part, in which the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes
covered with larger scales than those over the head; eyes rather
small, with a fleshy ridge above them; eye-lids covered with
minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated ridge of small
upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong,
four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the
upper lip being the largest: the chin covered with narrow
mid-ribbed scales, with a five-sided one in the centre, and
several of larger size just over the front of the fork of the
lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a large orbicular
scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the end of the
upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face has
a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the
under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill
arising from the hinder part of the head, just over the front of
the ears, and attached to the sides of the neck and extending
down to the front part of the chest, supported above by a lunate
cartilage arising from the hinder dorsal part of the ear, and in
the centre by a bone, which extends about half its length: this
bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork of the bone of
the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty without
injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge
on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a
fifth where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of
the neck; the front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated,
but the hinder or lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is
covered with keeled scales, which are largest towards its centre;
the inner surface is quite smooth. The scales of the back are
oval, smoothish; those of the lower part of the body and upper
part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of the sides and joints
of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as the body,
roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards
the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided;
the end is blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints,
as stated in the generic character (which includes also the claw
joint) compressed, scaly; the claws hooked, horn-coloured.
Length of the tail: 12 inches.
Length of the body: 5 inches.
Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches.
Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch.
Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches.
Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches.
Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches.
This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who
accompanied the expedition as His Majesty’s Botanical Collector
for Kew Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the
bottom of Port Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir
Everard Home, by whom it was deposited in the Museum of the
College of Surgeons,* which precluded my examination of its
internal structure.
(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators
of the College, I was permitted to have a drawing made of this
curious and unique specimen for the Appendix of my work. The
plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct
drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field, Esquire.
P.P.K.)
Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham’s journal
contains the following remarks. “I secured a lizard of
extraordinary appearance, which had perched itself upon the stem
of a small decayed tree. It had a curious crenated membrane like
a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering its shoulders, and when
expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of transverse
slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open
umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an
animal did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to
show by its alarm or irritability how far it depended upon, or
what use it made of, this extraordinary membrane when its life
was threatened. Its head was rather large, and eyes, whilst
living, rather prominent; its tongue, although bifid, was short
and thick, and appeared to be tubular.” Cunningham
manuscripts.
Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and
inside of the mouth was yellow.
2. Uaranus varius, Merrem.
Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t.
38. Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83.
Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76.
Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24.
This species, better known to English Dealers under the name
of The Lace Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the
scales, placed on the upper part of the centre of the tail,
raised into a biserrated ridge, and in the outer toe, or rather
thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and reaching to the
penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the claws
are compressed, sharp.
Genus PHELSUMA. Gray.
Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis,
muticis; poris femoralibus distinctis.
Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis
minimis, tecti.
This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of
France, differs from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes
being dilated the whole length, and entirely clawless, and
covered beneath with transverse scales; by the thumb being very
small and indistinct, and by the thighs being furnished with a
series of minute pores.
3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.).
P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus
albida.
Icon. —
Inhabits Isle of France.
Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate
scales; the front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather
broad red band a little before the eyes, and a white
crescent-shaped spot on each side immediately behind it, and then
some obscure red shades just behind that; the back lead-coloured
and blue, with six longitudinal series of irregular-sized red
spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the body. Body one
inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches and a
half long.
This animal is very interesting, as being the second species
of a genus recently established, which only consisted of P.
cepedia, the Gecko cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4
t. 5. f. 5.; which has somewhat the manner of colouring, but is
very distinct from the Gecko ocellatus of Oppel.
Genus TILIQUA. Gray.
Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis.
Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli.
Truncus regulariter squamosus.
This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want
of Palatine teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears
being furnished on their front part with a fringe. It differs
from the succeeding Genus, Trachysaurus, in the head being
covered with distinct flat plates, and the whole of the body with
cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder than those of the
true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the
Trachysaurus.
4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray.
Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc.
Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289.
Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73.
Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242.
Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t.
81.
This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent
journal of Mr. White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast
of Australia, as there are several specimens both in the British
Museum and in the collection of the Linnean Society, that were
probably taken in the neighbourhood of the colony; the specimen
before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George the Third’s
Sound.
The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular,
with five or six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which
gradually taper, and are lost just before they reach the margin.
The legs are short, thick; the toes of the fore-feet are rather
short, the outer reaching to the middle of the second, the second
and third equal; the fourth reaching to the last joint of the
third, and the little one to the second joint of the fourth
finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly
equal, and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half
as long as the third; and the fifth about half the length of the
fourth toe.
Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray.
Pedes quatuor pentadactyli.
Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli.
Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra
hexagonis membranaceis imbricatis, tectus.
Cauda brevis, depressa.
This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and
indeed from the whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales
that cover the back of the body and head; which are formed of
distinct triangular long plates, rough on the outside, and
covered with a membranaceous skin. The body shields of the head
pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth short, thick,
and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower surface of
the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the other
genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The
legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many
scales as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about
half as long as the three central toes, which are nearly of equal
length; claws short, conical, channelled beneath. The tail short,
depressed.
5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.)
T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda
brevissima.
The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed
with the scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than
usual: those round the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior
scales on the edge of the lower jaw larger than those which cover
the lower surface of the head, body, and tail, which are uniform,
distinct, large, and membranaceous: the scales of the back are
nearly of equal size with those covering the commencement of the
tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and end in a
point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly
smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather
thick, and short. The tail about half the length of the body.
Head, three inches long.
Body, seven inches.
Tail, four inches.
Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was
brought home by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had
been preserved had unfortunately evaporated, so that it was
considerably injured; there is, however, a specimen, apparently
of the same animal, in the collection of the Linnean Society,
which wants the end of its tail.
The above specimen was found at King George the Third’s Sound,
and is preserved in the Museum.
6. Agama muricata. Daud.
Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White’s Journal of a Voyage to New
South Wales, 244.
Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211.
Muricated Lizard, Shaw.
Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White’s Journal t. 31. f.
2.
This lizard was first described in Mr. White’s Journal, by the
late Dr. Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of
animals; but he was afterwards inclined to consider it as only a
variety of the common Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from
which, however, it is quite distinct.
It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only
seven inches, whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a
foot in length; and some have been caught even of a much larger
size. The Doctor’s figure is remarkably good, but rather more
spinous than the specimen under examination, which is probably
another proof of its youth. It was taken and preserved by Mr.
James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as surgeon
during the Mermaid’s third voyage, and has been presented by him
to the British Museum.
7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D’Hist. Nat. 4
199. 210.
Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140.
Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2.
The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this
curious animal appears to be formed of two series of scales
united laterally. The length of the specimen brought home by
Captain King exceeds four feet. The figure by M. Lacepede seems
to be too short, but his description agrees admirably with our
specimen, which has been presented to the British Museum.
8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.).
N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis
triangularibus; cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus.
(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell’s manuscript name
for this genus since his paper was read at the Zoological club of
the Linnean Society, before the publication of my genera of
Reptiles in the Annals of Philosophy, where I erroneously
considered it as synonymous with Dr. Leach’s genus Macrosoma
instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.)
Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed
on the apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather
broad. The series of scales on the side next to the ventral
plates ovate and blunt; those on the sides narrow, linear, in
five series; the series of scales along the centre of the back
long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales gradually
assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head, where
they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate
being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central
labial scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial
margin; the anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail
one-fourth the length of the body, covered with uniform ovate
quadrangular scales. Length, four feet.
This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the
genus named Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and
is very much like Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the
group called by English Zoologists, Whip Snakes.
The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at
Careening Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the
British Museum.
9. Leptophis spilotus.
Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209.
A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King,
agreeing very well with the short description given by Lacepede,
in his account of some new species of animals from New Holland.
It has not been taken notice of in the modern works on Reptiles.
It may, perhaps, be distinct from it; but upon considering that
upwards of two hundred species of this genus have been already
described, I thought it best not to increase the number without
very good reason. This species forms a second section in the
genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales,
particularly those of the throat.
Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three
kinds are common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within
the tropic; and Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the
rivers of the northern and north-western coasts, particularly in
those that empty themselves into the bottom of Van Diemen’s Gulf;
but as no specimens of either of these animals were preserved, no
further notice can be taken of them.*
(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east
Coast, in the nei
See Banks and Solander manuscripts.)
PISCES.
BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.
1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203.
Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2.
2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432.
Icon. —
There are two other species of this genus in Captain King’s
collection, which appear to be new.
3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26.
Icon. l.c.
4. Teuthis australis (n.s.).
T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda
truncata.
Icon. —
Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown
bands; the first placed across the eye and front angle of the
gill flap; the second obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the
three next, nearly equidistant, straight across the body, the
last band placed between the spine and the base of the rays of
the tail; and with a black longitudinal line between the eyes.
Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and denticulated.
The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular;
ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray;
dorsal and anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side
of the tail very distinct, imbedded in a sheath. Pectoral fin,
fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one very
strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong,
first short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and
short. Caudal fin, sixteen rays, divided.
Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin
3/4; pectoral fin 1 1/4 inches long.
This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by
Shaw (Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently
formed from the type of Linnaeus’ Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted
the latter name for those Chetodons which have one spine on each
side of the tail, and Acanthurus for those that have two. They
are usually called Lancet-fish, from the curious structure of the
sub-caudal spines.
Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other
sorts of fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings,
which I have not hitherto been enabled to find in any of the
works on Ichthyology, but so little is known of the genera and
species of this department of Natural History, that I am not
inclined to describe them as new, for fear of increasing the
confusion at present existing.
Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a
species found by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South
Atlantic.
5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494.
Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts.
6. Squalus glaucus.
Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the
neighbourhood of the coast.
7. Squalus—-.
Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of shark
was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with
a very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour,
marked with darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches
in diameter. This shark was usually ten or eleven feet long.
ANNELIDES.
1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5
322.
Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524.
Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5.
figure 1.7.
Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114.
The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long,
and was procured at the Isle of France.
ANNULOSA.
CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN
KING, R.N.
BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M.,
F.L.S.
The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species,
of which one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata,
fifty-eight to Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one
of the species are new, and the extent to which each order of
winged insects has been collected, will be best understood from
the following summary.
COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA.
COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA.
108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera.
8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera.
5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera.
9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera.
Total 188 Species.
This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general
remarks to be founded on the collection, and the following
Catalogue is, therefore, merely descriptive.
CLASS MANDIBULATA.
Order COLEOPTERA.
1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat.
Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the
fourth volume of Cuvier’s Regne Animal.
2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis
obscuris, basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque
rufo-piceis, thorace linea media longitudinali vix marginem
posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis
vix atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis.
3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13.
Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is
very vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect
collected by Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a
new name.
4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194.
t. 20, f. 5.
5. Creophilus erythrocephalus.
Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19.
6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13.
7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48.
8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus,
antennis sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio
majore compressa linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum
transversarum dissecante, thoracis lateribus rufo-ciliatis,
elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis.
9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis
triphyllis, verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice
emarginato, tuberculo utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis
subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus dentatis.
Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is
more convex.
10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3.
11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1.
12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati
elevata marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis,
exterioribus interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus
inaequalibus, elytris tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis
alternatim majoribus.
13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63.
Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the
type of a new genus near to Serica.
14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12
page 463.
Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts,
but M. Dejean has since published it under the name of
Diphucephala.
15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima
antennis palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus
subpunctatis, media canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis
seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus hirsutie incano.
An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ?
16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112. C.
luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall.
Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and
was probably collected by Captain King during his stay in that
island.
17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table
1.
18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1.
19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1.
20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44.
21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12
405.
22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12
405.
23. Repsimus aeneus. Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2
page 166. 30.
24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2.
25. Buprestis macularis. Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New
Holland, table 8.
26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204.
98.
27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table
8.
28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table
7.
29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis
nigro-violaceis testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace
punctato nigro-aeneo lateribus testaceis.
Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker
varieties of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which
scarcely any idea can be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our
insect bears a remarkable similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with
serrated elytra.
30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv.
Ins. 2 32, table 12, figure 140.
Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King
collected a few species in the Isle of France, this is probably
one of them.
31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12
page 458, table 23, figure 4.
32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace
lineis duabus parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris
integris subacuminatis substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis,
corpore subtus aeneo.
33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus
dilatatis serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris
punctatis striatis pubescentibus basi late auratis
dimidiatis.
Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black,
except the upper half of the elytra.
34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite
antennisque atris, thorace convexo macula longitudinali
sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra medium attingente, elytris
punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque nigro.
Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former,
having its feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head
and a black anal spot, something like the letter V.
35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll.
6.
36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico
fossulis septem, quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum
media angusta lanciformi, duabus lateralibus latis antice
emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro; elytrls rubris marginatis
lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici serie punctorum
transversorum crenatis.
37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis;
thorace angulis porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum
trium media longitudinali lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro;
elytris rubris marginatis lineis novem elevatis, quatuor
alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis.
38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque
nigro-nitidis, hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris
viridi-caeruleis tomentosis punctatis ad suturam marginatis,
corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine subtus rufo.
39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice
antennisque apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia
humerali mediaque violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque
nigris.
40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite
thoracis lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus,
quarum postica latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice
rufescentibus, antennis piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis.
41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2.
Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3.
42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4.
Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4.
Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the
former species.
43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis
obscuris, fronte puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula
utrinque atro-nitida impresso, scutello flavo, elytris
nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis, geniculis tibiis
tarsisque nigris.
44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70.
9.
45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72.
46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea
pubescens, antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi
nigris, elytris punctis crenatis striatis.
47. Amarygmus tristis.
Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4.
Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under
the head of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a
native of St. Domingo, and a different genus of which the
characters are to be found in the Genera Crustaceorum et
Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of late more accurately
investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta Entomologica, and he has
given it the name of Amarygmus.
48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite
thoraceque viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis,
corpore subtus chalybeo pedibusque nigris.
49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus
labri margine rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis
minutissimis.
Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus
which contains a great number of species.
50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12
page 420. 57. table 22. figure 2.
51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page
466. 17.
52. Phalidura mirabilis.
Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21.
table 23, figure 9.
Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are
chiefly to be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick
rustrum, connate elytra, and singular anal forceps of the
male.
53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato
utrinque canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis
elevatis interstitiis crenatis lateribusque
punctato-striatis.
54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce
impresso, clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato
dentato margine antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor
duabus mediis longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis
scabrosis utrinque dentibus acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus
seriatim nudulosis medioque linea tuberculorum sub-duplici
instructo.
Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae;
at least neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they
come close in affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the
present ventured to give them a new generic name.
55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436.
77.
Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean’s
Catalogue.
56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel
punctis minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace
irregulariter noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que
elevatis striatis striis duabus a sutura alternatim
majoribus.
Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed
characters of this genus at present. I shall merely, therefore,
say that it has the broken clavate antennae of Phalidura, only
they are here longer than the head and thorax taken together. The
body is very convex:, having the thorax as wide as the abdomen,
subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined to thorax by
a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost
perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated
femora.
57. Chrysolopus spectabilis.
Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184.
58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice
trilineato, thorace punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato
lineis utrinque elevatis, elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum
duabus interiori anum versus abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis
obtusis, posticis acutis. C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88.
59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato,
thorace punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis
seriatim impressis, tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis
interiori abbreviata; tuberculo postico suturali maximo.
60. Chrysolopus quadridens.
Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175.
Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to
belong to the same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M.
Dejean until the whole family be more accurately
investigated.
61. Gastrodus crenulatus.
Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64.
62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace
scabriusculo rugis transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba,
elytris nigris striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis
laevibus linea laterali alba haud apicem attingente, apice
rufescente albo-punctato.
63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa
constricto; vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus,
antennis piceis clava obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro:
elytris punctis impressis striatis, punctis conspicuis
argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis obscuris.
Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to
Megerle’s genus Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in
Pachygaster.
64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95.
65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga
clypeo lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus
albis, thorace canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis
squamisque cinereis subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis,
corpore subtus ad latera pedibusque albo-squamosis.
66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173.
Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157.
Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not
able in this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite
the insect under its Fabrician title.
67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463.
125.
Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128.
Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true
Rhynchaeni, as the preceding one is from the true
Curculiones.
68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96.
Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113.
Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very
singular insect in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises
from each elytron, appears to be its peculiar defence against
entomological collectors.
69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page
428. 65.
70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12
page 426.
71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis
impressus vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula
postica media alba, elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore
subtus lateribus albis.
72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis
aspersus capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis,
scutello cinereo, elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis,
corpore subtus pedibusque cinereo-sericeis.
Table B. figure 1.
Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia,
and would probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The
following are the characters of this new genus.
CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.)
Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari
crassiori, secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico
acuto,
Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato
ciliato.
Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus
subsinuatae edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel
submembranaceae.
Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem
versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato;
interno tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto.
Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem
extensi, quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo
secundo obconico tertio subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali
obtuso.
Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo,
secundo obconico longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice
truncato.
Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum
medio emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato.
Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive
edentulo.
Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo
quadrato vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice
convergentibus. Thorax haud marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis
subcylindricus antice angustius, postice sublobatus. Scutellum
tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace duplo latius. Elytra
convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia rotundata. Pedes
pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis pulvillatis
dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto tenuibus
obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata
intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice
dilatatae.
73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque
piceis thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel
punctis confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda
lineaque suturali impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo
pedibusque concoloribus.
Table B. figure 2.
Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but
differs from that genus in having setiform antennae, porrect
mandibles, and securiform palpi. Its habit is also totally
different from that of a Sagra, and more like that of some of
those insects which belong to the heterogeneous magazine called
Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel form in
Captain King’s collection, and forms a new genus, of which the
characters are as follow.
MEGAMERUS (novum genus).
Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae
articulo basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali
acuto.
Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum
subemarginatum.
Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae
vel falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique
truncatae acutissimae.
Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis
apicem versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus
ciliato, interno tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix
unidentato.
Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo
inconspicuo, secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis
longitudine fere aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo
securiformi compressa.
Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo
inconspicuo, secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem
instructo, tertio triangulari compresso vel securiformi.
Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis
ciliatis interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem
rotundatis.
Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico
emarginato. Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud
angustius. Thorax convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus
rotundatis haud marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum.
Abdomen thorace fere duplo latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus
marginatis, lateribus parallelis. Pedes pentameri articulis
tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis dilatatis, penultimo
bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica valde
incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice
dilatatae angulo externo acuto.
Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in
affinity to Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more
minutely the tarsus in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of
the French entomologists, and the result has been that the
arrangement given in the third volume of M. Cuvier’s Regne
Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of description,
as it is inconsistent with natural affinities.
74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.
75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.
76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus
basi nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco
tomentoso, thorace nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus
spinulosus, in medio postice carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque
magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo nigro-marginato, elytris
testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice unidentatis, pectoris
lateribus rufo-tomentosis.
77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions
12.
78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea
subtomentosa, capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice
canaliculato, antennis nigris articulis vix biramosis ramis
sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta utrinque rufotestacea,
scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis apice obtusis
dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo micante,
abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris.
Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as
long as its wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this
genus with Distichocera.
79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5.
Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as
to make me hesitate in placing it in the genus.
80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2.
Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific
description as given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the
European insect, and has eight obsolete white spots disposed in
two parallel bands on the back of the elytra.
81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore
testaceo, antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel
potius punctis confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio
subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis apice deflexis lineis duabus
elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis pulcherrime erosis
sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque
tomentosis.
Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis
litura inter lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus
nigropiceis.
82. Callidium solandri.
Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118.
Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97.
Obs. I place Olivier’s Synonym in this case first; because the
Fabrician description is so erroneous, that did we not know the
original insect in the Banksian Collection, there would be no
possibility of making it out.
83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306,
8.
Obs. This and the three following species belong to the
Stenochori Callidiiformes of Schonnher.
84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus
capite punctato, antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et
sexto apice spinosis, ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice
ciliatis membranaceis, palpis securiformibus, thorace obscuro
utrinque unispinoso margine antico tuberculisque dorsalibus
utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris, scutello rubro;
elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin inter
lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice
bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus
rubris.
85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite
angusto, labro palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace
inaequaliter rugoso eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis
utrinque inconspicuis, elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis
interstitiisque punctatis macula media suturali testacea antice
subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis articulis apice haud
spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus incrassatis.
86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum
articulis duobus primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque
nigris, thorace subcylindrico utrinque unidentato supra
quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus, elytris apice
flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium subviolaceo-flava
linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque flavo-testaceis.
87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112. Cerambyx
abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in
Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472.
Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby’s Leptura ceramboides, and
perfectly agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx
abbreviatus, except that no mention is there made of its mouth
being yellow. Mr. Kirby says of this insect, “a habitu Lepturae
omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior,” and certainly were it
allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would seem to connect
those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which have
bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis,
Fab.) with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But,
however this may be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the
Cerambycidae, and agrees with the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has
the antennae inserted between the eyes.
88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis
articulo basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque
cylindrico constricto subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis
lineis quatuor elevatis.
89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169,
234.
L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5.
90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169,
234.
91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124.
92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis
apicem versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro
bilineato, thorace obscuro cinereo inaequali postice
subcanaliculato medio utrinque tuberculato, elytris obscuris
fasciculis minutis nigris flavis cinereisque variegatis, fascia
media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata humeros versus.
93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9
291, table 25. figure 4.
94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9
285, table 24. figure 1.
95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9
285, table 24. figure 2.
96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9
287, table 24. figure 6.
Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N.
reticulata.
97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286,
table 24. figure 3.
98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea
antennis piceis, scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura
maculisque duabus dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem
striis punctorum subtilissime impressis.
99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289.
table 24. figure 10.
100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9
294. table 25. figure 10.
101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis
quatuor utrinque inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes
in lineam transversam dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris
testaceis nigro-variis striatis striis punctatis, corpore subtus
pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis valde incrassatis.
Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela
14-punctata, Fab., and other Asiatic insects of this type, which
have been separated from Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides
Entomologicae, under the name of Podontia.
102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21.
Chrysomela cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85.
103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis
scutello pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali,
thorace macula posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis
duabus anticis cruceque apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus
atro-cyaneo limbo rufo.
Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes
of Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it.
104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101.
Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2.
105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions
volume 12.
106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55.
Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra.
107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44.
Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17.
108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace
medio maculis quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque
posticis rotundatis, elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis
humeralibus duobus alioque media marginali.
Order ORTHOPTERA.
109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata,
ferrugineo-fusca thorace suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus
laterali et posticali lunulisque utrinque duabus paulisper
impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum lata alba
transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis
carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum
desinentibus.
Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the
abdomen.
110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud
tripla longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata
excepta longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus
denticulatis, elytris thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis
dilute viridibus margine externo maculaque media elevata
flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute ferrugineis margine antico
apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis denticulatis margine
interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis transversis in dentes
desinentibus.
111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo
longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta
longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud
denticulatis, elytris thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus
acuminatis antice viridibus margine flavescente postice
subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus crassiore, aiis apice
acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio nigro punctis
hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata.
Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.
Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his
friend Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.
112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo,
subcinereo-fusco lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis
elytris longiore, his nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis
maculaque in marginis antici medio magna alba, alis membranaceis
nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice coriaceis ad basin rubris
nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis,
pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo inferiori
dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis.
Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now
for the first time described, although it seems to be not
uncommon in New South Wales. Although much larger, it comes very
near to the P. Gigas of Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs
to Lichtenstein’s division, thus characterized, “Alata elytris
alisque in utroque sexu.”
113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum
longo cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa
coronato, thorace antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice
dilatato convexiori marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine
antice cylindrico medio valde dilatato margine dentato et in
processum segmentorum trium linearem desinente segmentis supra
binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis, elytris viridibus
subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus; pedibus
viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato,
superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori
dilatato rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine
denticulatis, femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem
versus subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis
dentatis exteriori valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4.
Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this
rare insect, in order to afford as much information as possible
to the naturalist, who may be inclined to investigate the natural
arrangement of the Phasmina.
114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano
lateribus perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis
brevioribus lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad
medium impressis alis hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus.
Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a
Javanese insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is
marked at the angles with yellow.
115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25.
116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis
filiformibus nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis
fusco-hyalinis, thoracis lateribus postice testaceis, corpore
subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus
rufis apicibus nigris.
Order NEUROPTERA.
117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis
hyalinis stigmate fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi
flavescentibus.
118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9.
119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8.
120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus
albescens pedibus nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad
marginem apicalem alba.
121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque
subtus albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis
abdominalibus nigro alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate
fusco.
Order HYMENOPTERA.
122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1.
Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a
variety of the common European insect.
123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9.
124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1.
125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2.
126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis
segmentis apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus.
127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts.
Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1.
128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10.
129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter
alas segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis
flavis apice fuscis.
130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19.
CLASS HAUSTELLATA.
Order LEPIDOPTERA.
131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49.
Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61.
Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New
Holland, which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P.
eurypilus, a species hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and
Amboyna. This variety is distinguished from the euripilus of
Godart by several minute differences.
132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47.
65.
133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis
posticis dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali
rufo lunulae caeruleae submisso.
Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in
Africa, and epius in India. It is even difficult to determine
whether the three may not be varieties of one species. If
varieties, however, they are certainly permanent according to the
above localities, and this species may be easily distinguished
from epius, which it most resembles, by the large yellow spot
near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing. This
spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the
band of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one
small spot.
134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis
griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata
lunula media nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis
ocellis tot rufis submissis.
Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to
have a relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is
orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper
wings are slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked
with white spots. There are three grey spots in the middle of the
superior margin of the wing, of which the largest is the one
nearest to the body; on the outside of these are two parallel
rows of grey spots, the first range consisting of about nine
oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight
smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower
wings, which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in
the middle; and on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots,
the one blue and the other red, The emarginations of these wings
are fringed with white. The underside of this insect is like the
upper, except that the colours are more pronounced, and that
there are two round white spots on the outside of the white band
of the lower wings.
135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76.
145.
136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146.
137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis
apice punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus
flavo-irroratis.
P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.
Obs. This insect is of Godart’s fifth size, and comes very
near to his Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour,
particularly the upper. These have their summit black, and a
minute black point, near the middle. The under wings are without
any spots, but are bordered behind by a cinereous thread. The
underside of the upper wings have the costa and summit covered
with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour.
The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine
undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish
colour.
The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson
Croker, Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty.
138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro;
anticis macula media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis
subtus nigro-venosis limbi maculis luteo-notatis.
Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart
and Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however,
smaller than that insect. The upper wings are white, with a
posterior broad black subtriangular border, having two or three
white spots at the apex. These wings have a black spot near their
middle, which is also on the underside, but there communicates by
a transverse, short, and rather curved, black band, with a black
superior edging of the wing. In other respects the underside of
the superior wings is like the upper, except perhaps that it is
yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their upper side
white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly
veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer
row of white spots in the posterior margin of the wing
yellowish.
139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo
exteriori utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis
apicalibus quatuor albis.
Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its
wings are white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish,
and a triangular border at their extremity rather dentated on the
inside. On this black border is a transverse row of four or five
white spots, unequal in size. The lower wings have also a black
border with one white spot, and which is simply crenated on the
inside. The underside of the four wings scarcely differs from the
upper, except that the black borders above mentioned are in
general more pale, and those of the lower wings are broader than
on the upper side.
140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606.
P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118.
P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ?
Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in
the Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora
of Donovan, the only difference being that the under wings are
less cinereous on the upper side, and the upper wings have more
white at the extremity of the yellow spots at the base of their
undersides. These minute differences appear to be sexual. At all
events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of Donovan, in his
Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most erroneously
quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India, and
gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some
Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has
also erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa,
and thus added to the multitude of proofs which his laborious
work affords, that the continental entomologists have no means of
undertaking a complete description of species, without visiting
the extensive collections of London.
141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149.
108.
142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153.
121.
143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56.
Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan’s work on the Insects
of India, instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to
think that he never saw those works.
144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis
flavis, anticis apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis
subtus testaceis atomis griseis aspersis.
Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it
extremely in its upper side. The underside, however, is
different, as the extremity of the upper wings and the whole of
the under wings are of a fawn colour. The underside of the lower
wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms, and marked
obscurely with a fuscous band under two points.
145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88.
Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from
New Holland, which only differs from the European specimen
figured by Hubner, in the row of white points round the edge of
the upper side of the lower wings being evanescent. This species
is one of those which have a great range of distribution, being
found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and New Holland.
146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182.
21.
147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus
fusco alis repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum
punctis ad basin maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus
anticarum apice posticarumque pagina omni,
olivaceo-fuscescentibus.
Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace,
of Godart and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as
well as in Java and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as
any thing but a variety of that species. It differs, however, in
being constantly of a smaller size, in its abdomen being black,
and in the exterior row of white spots on the under wings not
extending much more than half way round the margin of these
wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on
various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape
Cleveland. See volume 1.
148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123.
Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M.
Latreille’s genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their
males; and to the remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of
Euplaea.
149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis
caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra
punctorum seriem marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo
costali. Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS.
Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it
appears to come very near. The upper side of the four wings is
brownish-black, having towards the margin an arched band of
violet-coloured white spots, of which the greatest is at the
extremity of the wing. There is also on the superior margin,
about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and at its
inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper
side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal
points on the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured
whitish lunulae. The underside answers well to the description
given by Godart of the underside of his Danais eunice, except
that D. darchia has only one white point in the middle of the
upper wing.
This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend
Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.
150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis
caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis
duabus angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis
extimum versus majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali
et macularum longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis.
Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and
his D. coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal
series of white points continued to the very tip of the upper
wings, while they have three other points in the disc. There are
also eight or nine similar white points between the base of the
lower wings and the band of longitudinal spots.
151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155.
152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57.
153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62.
154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3.
155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72.
156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80.
157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81.
158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17.
159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18.
160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564.
A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9.
Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian
cabinet, and affords further cause of regret, that the article
“Papillon,” of the Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been
undertaken by a person who had not studied the classical
collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart describes this
insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and makes it
an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa.
161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13.
Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native
of Java, but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of
it on the North Coast of New Holland.
162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis;
anticis fascia maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem
versus subviridibus aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali
ovali sulphurea abbreviata, caudata corporis fascia media
sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis.
Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford
Raffles, to whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions
in Java and Sumatra, every Naturalist must feel himself
indebted.
The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the
only difference being, that round the whole disc of the four
wings there runs a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and
feet are black, and the breast whitish. The vivid colour of the
yellow spots on the velvety black of the wings distinguish it at
once from every known species.
163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4. Var. alis
atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis cupreo-viridibus,
unica lata.
Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as
peculiar to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers,
flitting among a grove of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of
a stream near the extremity of Cape Grafton, upon the North-east
Coast of New Holland. See volume 2.
164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15
— Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2.
Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years
before Dr. Leach, his name has the right of priority.
165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis
griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus
nigris basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus,
inferis griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus.
Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts.
Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a
yellowish-gray colour, traversed by a line of blackish points,
which indeed are dispersed very generally over the whole surface.
The disk of the upper wings is rather blacker than the rest. The
head and thorax are of the colour of the wings, their sides and
the conical abdomen being rather lighter. The antennae are
ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath.
166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media
longitudinali guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis
integris; superis griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus
nigris punctoque medio albo, inferis griseo-flavescentibus
fasciis tribus nigris. Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy
manuscripts.
Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe
being alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a
narrow, tawny, transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black
curved marks, and on the hinder part a black spot. The body
beneath is of a whitish colour.
167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque
viridibus, abdomine nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris
hyalinis subtus ad originem flavis, superis basin versus brunneis
pilis viridescentibus obtectis costa limboque posteriori
brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque internum
brunneo-viridescentibus.
Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts.
Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very
slender at the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi
are greenish above and white beneath. The breast is white in the
middle, and yellow at the sides. The two first segments of the
abdomen are, on the upper side, gray in the middle, and yellow on
the sides; the third segment is black, with a part of the
anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth segment is
entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior edge;
the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black;
the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is
terminated by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base,
and black at the extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the
tibiae and tarsi yellow.
168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland.
169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite
nigro bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis
quatuor et postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis
ad basin albis punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus
mediis hyalinis, abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus
duplici serie punctorum nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis.
Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at
sea, has been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker,
Esquire, M.P., and First Secretary of the Admiralty.
170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior,
alis superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque
marginalibus obscuris fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus
lineola fusca terminata, ad marginem externum dilatata, limbo
punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus fascia alba, posteris supra
apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque tribus marginalibus
albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine nigro
punctato.
Order HOMOPTERA.
171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc
macularum fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine
atro fascia antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis
basalibus subviridibus, elytris hyalinis costis viridibus
pedibusque testaceis.
Order HEMIPTERA.
173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think
it to be the same species with the following S. cyanipes,
Fab.
174. Scutellera cyanipes.
Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23.
175. Scutellera imperialis.
Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1.
176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea
verticali nigra thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula
transversa rubra, corpore subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus
auratis abdominis lateribus rubris anoque viridi, pedibus rubris
tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis.
177. Scutellera pagana.
Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29.
178. Pentatoma caelebs.
Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119.
179. Pentatoma elegans.
Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris,
thorace flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse
notato, scutello nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque
apicali membranacea nigris, corpore subtus fulvo lateribus
albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis.
Order DIPTERA.
181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa,
post-scutello flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin
versus duabus viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis.
Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr.
James Hunter, the surgeon of the Mermaid.
182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad
basin pilis flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice
obscurioribus, pedibus rufis geniculis tarsisque nigris.
183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus
albescens, alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea
media maculisque quatuor utrinque cinereis.
185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea
nitida, abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice
margineque exteriori saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis
obscuris marginalibus.
Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe,
R.N.; one of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition.
186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis
flavescentibus tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus
nigris, alis brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus
apice albis.
187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus
post-scutello ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice
albo fasciaque media fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis
alis hyalinis basi margineque exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot
discoidalibus.
188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland.
Class ARACHNIDA.
189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo,
geniculis incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et
postremo pari flavo-annulatis.
Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.
Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the
expedition.
Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from
Epeira by Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany.
190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum
pari secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis.
191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis
pedibusque apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano,
pedum secundo pari longiori.
Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus
Linyphia, as characterized by Latreille, consists in the
circumstance of the two largest of the four middle eyes being the
posterior ones. The palpi of the male are in this species each
provided with a spiral screw resembling the tendril of a
vine.
192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis
longioribus, cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna
viridifusca, pedibus sub-geminatim fusco maculatis.
CIRRIPEDES.
Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825.
Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach.
Montague, Test. Brit.
RADIATA.
CENTRONIA.
1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48.
This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with
the short description given by Lamarck of this species.
2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47.
This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one
found by Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area
agrulate and ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly
as large as those in the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper
part are not perforated, and are placed in segments of circles
round small tubercles.
3. Echinometra lucunter.
Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176.
Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7.
ANOMALIA.
Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481.
Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1.
No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King
observes, that the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing,
differed from Lesueur’s figure of P. megalista, in being of
smaller size, and with fewer tints; the colour of the tentacula
was a brighter purple tipped with yellow globules, and the crest
of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the animal was
purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length.
Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista.
Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485. Icon.
Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6.
A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal
was made by Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur’s figure is also very
correctly drawn.
ACRITA.
ZOOPHYTA.
1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2
209.
Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27.
According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished
with green-fringed tentacula.
2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239.
Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289.
Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44.
3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255.
Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43.
4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243.
Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2.
5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236.
Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6.
6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237.
Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5.
7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235.
8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228.
Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82.
9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271. Icon. —
10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270.
Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1.
11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261.
Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4.
Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not
perforate.
12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281.
Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.
13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280.
Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.
14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282.
Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336.
Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2.
15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280.
16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279.
Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54.
17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279.
18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280.
19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809.
Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A.
20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux.
Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114.
Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4.
21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74.
Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2.
22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78.
Icon. —
23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371.
Number 82.
Icon. — Esper. 2 t. 25.
24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number
l26.
Icon. — Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28.
25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106.
Icon. —
Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home,
which I have not been able to identify with all of Lamarck’s
descriptions, or with any figures; but as this author has
described many species from the collection of Peron and Lesueur,
which have not hitherto been figured, I have not considered them
as new, until I have had an opportunity of examining more New
Holland species, and of seeing those described by Lamarck.
MOLLUSCA.
BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S.
1. CONCHOPHORA.
1. Solenomya australis.
Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489.
Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur
2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20.
Icon. —
This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of
a shell agreeing with the short specific character given by
Lamarck of the above; but as it has not been figured, I have
referred to it with a mark of doubt. The shells are rather solid,
white, or white variegated with purple, with numerous concentric
wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer the margin; the umbones,
covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly smooth and polished,
with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the disk and
posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes
distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly
sulcated; length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch
3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477
This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the
anterior slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior
only marked by a raised line in the periostraca. The shell is
thin, white; with a pale brown and deeply grooved escutcheon
4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch.
Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7.
Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451.
Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1
5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5.
Icon. —
The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones;
the rose colour is often extended down the centre of the shell,
forming concentric zones
6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541.
Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241.
Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129
7. Venerupis galactites, nob.
Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599.
Icon. —
The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this
shell, which a modern conchologist has considered as a variety of
Venerupis perforans, shows the very great affinity that exists
between those genera
8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605.
Icon. —
This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct,
concentric ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones
smooth, polished, orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple;
the inside golden-yellow; the anterior and posterior dorsal
margins purple
9. Venus tessellata (n.s.)
Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta;
sulcis concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus
integerrimis.
Icon. —
Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square
purple spots, forming regular lines, with the points directed
toward the back of the shell; covered with many distinct, nearly
equal, concentric, smooth ridges; the front part of the ridges
somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part distinctly lamellar and much
elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate; the edge quite entire;
umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except on the anterior
and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length
eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch
There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum
which do not agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these
being fourteen-tenths of an inch long, and one inch high, is
double the size of Captain King’s specimen; its habitation is not
marked, but the other specimen is from Ceylon
10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.)
Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata,
radiata, radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus
albida
Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker
brown rays, each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones
white, the edge quite entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped,
obscurely defined, the centre rather prominent; inside white, the
hinge margin rather broad
This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in
its markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular.
The specimen given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch
long, and eight-tenths of an inch high; but there is another
specimen in the collection, from the Tankerville cabinet (Number
288) which is twice that size
11. Cytherea gibba.
Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577.
Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416
12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague
This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the
Cardium rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found
imbedded in the seaweed and spongy-like substance that covers the
Tridacna squamosa
13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95
This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides
14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105.
Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299.
Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1
15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54
16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42.
Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1.
a, b
17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120
This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland
specimens, that were probably collected by Peron in Baudin’s
voyage. It is remarkable for being very thick and solid, and of a
fine dark colour, with only a narrow white band on the anterior
basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the muscular impressions
are very distinct, and raised above the surface, particularly
that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and
tubercular
18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob.
Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111
This Australian species will most probably prove to be
distinct from the American kind; but the specimen before me does
not afford sufficient materials to separate it, since there is
only one water-worn valve in the collection. It is not so
distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is entirely of a
brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal edge
19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob.
Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116.
Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b
20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152
This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the
Gulf of Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not
easy to describe. The specimens before me, which are small,
differ materially from some of the same size among the American
species. The outside is of a dull greenish-purple colour, with a
few distant membranaceous laminae which are only slightly lobed,
and not extended into long processes like those of Avicula
radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the
American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow
tinge
21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192.
Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191.
f. 5.
22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163.
Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315.
Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1.
a, b.
The shell before me is probably distinct from the above
species, but is too much worn down to be separated from it; in
its present state it seems to agree tolerably well with the
species to which it has been referred.
23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174.
This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and
Lesueur on the coast of Van Diemen’s Land.
24. Lima minuta (n.s.)
Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata,
costis transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine
crenato.
This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea
sounding-lead, being only one-sixth of an inch long, and
one-fourth high, is the smallest species of the genus. It is
white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at the ends; the surface
is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are concentrically
rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated appearance;
the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small
distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin,
which is straight.
25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133.
Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234.
Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ?
The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of
this species with the anterior end uncurved, which has most
probably been caused by some injury on the anterior basal
edge.
The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat,
and purplish rays.
2. COCHLEOPHORA.
26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18.
Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b.
Inhab. South-west Coast.
Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by
Peron.
27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18.
28. Monodonta conica (n.s.)
Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata,
rufa; costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura
sulcata.
Inhab. — Mus. Brit.
Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl
flattened with six spiral raised substriae, which are
transversely divided into blackish purple beads with white
interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base, rather convex, axis
imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside furrowed; the
base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and distinct
groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths,
diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to
be uncommon on the coast of Australia.
29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.)
Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata,
spiraliter papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi;
infima facie papillata, apertura sulcata.
Inhab. Mus. Brit.
Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white,
generally concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated
spiral ribs, the ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all
the other whorls rather distant, and forming four series; those
of the under part rather closer, and smaller. The axis
unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the outer lips
furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base,
axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch.
30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.)
Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata,
spiraliter sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato.
Inhab. — Mus. Brit.
Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows
of white and brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly
granulated; the sutures distinct, impressed, the lower part of
the last whorl nearly smooth, the umbilicus white, smooth inside,
the edge furnished with a series of granules. The mouth
subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge, the columella
lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little
roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter
five-twelfths of an inch.
31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36.
32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.)
Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa,
labro duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo.
Inhab. — Mus. Brit.
Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly,
concentrically striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where
eroded, purple; the whorls convex, suture distinct, sometimes
occupying an impressed line on the lower whorl; the base rather
convex, the aperture roundish, the axis (imperforate) covered
with a white callus, which leaves a slight concavity over its
end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part purple or
green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque, white,
and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is
frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a
purple spot.
33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.)
Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et
concentrice costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa.
Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three,
lower with seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised,
spiral ribs, and numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an
acute tubercle where it crosses the spiral ridges, the suture
deeply impressed, very distinct, the aperture nearly orbicular,
the outer lip denticulated on its outer edge, inner lip smooth,
column without any perforation, only a slight linear cavity
behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of an
inch.
This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata,
Lin.) in its general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is
white and ribbed like Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R.
calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus of Montague.
34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.)
Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter
sub-striata rufo variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis
infra convexis, umbilico pervio edentulo.
Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five
spirally striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with
numerous diverging red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right
angles with the upper edge, white, with a convex thread-like rib
round its base, which is distantly articulated; base of the
whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated with white; axis
conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement; aperture
subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth
at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third,
of an inch.
35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42.
Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796.
36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40.
Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B.
37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b.
c.
Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52.
Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490.
Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034.
38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.)
Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida
opaca et fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde
convexis.
Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated
with spiral opaque white intercepted striae and several
transverse scarlet bands formed of oblique lines; axis,
imperforated, one-sixth, diameter one-eighth, of an inch.
This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of
Montague, but the whorls are more convex, and it is rather
differently marked.
39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228.
Icon. —
40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.)
Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata,
costis albis tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus,
anfractibus contiguis.
Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow
central spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth,
with numerous close oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged
cross ribs; axis umbilicated; umbilicus narrow; mouth small,
ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths, diameter one-fourth of an
inch.
This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo
principalis of Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell
before me is most probably a young specimen.
41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230.
Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45.
This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the
entrance of Prince Regent’s River, on the North-west Coast.
42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191.
Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955.
43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683.
Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945.
44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197.
Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672.
Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a.
b.
45. Natica alba, n.
Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923.
46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198.
Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931.
47. Littorina australis (n.s.)
Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata,
spira acuta, fauce livida.
Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous
impressed spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather
convex, last slightly angular, the columella lip purplish-brown;
axis solid, with a lunate concavity behind the usual situation of
the umbilicus.
48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.)
Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata,
anfractibus convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea
unifasciata.
Icon. —
Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric
ridges, and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves;
white or purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last
one slightly angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or
purplish-black with a distinct broad white spiral band just below
the slight external keel; inner lip purple with a deep concavity
behind it; spire acute half the length of the shell; axis 8/12,
diameter 6/12, of an inch.
This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the
Trochus zigzag of Montague, but is all of one colour externally
and has a much shorter spire.
49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7
66.
Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50.
f. 13. 14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472.
50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7
67.
Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442.
f. 1. a, b.
51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug.
Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ?
52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33.
A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home,
but when a more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be
distinct from it.
53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77.
54. Nassa fasciata, n.
Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271.
55. Nassa suturalis, n.
Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ?
56. Nassa mutabilis, n.
Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269.
Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t.
188. f. 1810, 1811.
57. Nassa livida (n.s.)
Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter
striata purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus
convexiusculis, sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato
intus sulcato.
Icon. —
Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two
central, obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely
plaited, the rest smooth, livid, except at the front part of the
last, just over the groove, where it is spirally striated; the
suture distinct (not channelled) marked by a white line; the
inner lip distinct, raised, the outer thickened on the outer
side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat fulvous-brown; axis
one inch, diameter half an inch.
This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps
form a distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella,
characterized by the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly
allied to N. olivacea, n. (Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N.
canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum, Lam.)
58. Clavatula striata (n.s.)
Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter
sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum
margine superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce
sulcata.
Icon. —
Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve
longitudinal interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the
centre of the whorls; the whorls with distant impressed spiral
lines near the suture, with a rather flattened slightly nodulose
band; the mouth rather more than one-third the length of the
shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with a linear
depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter
four-twelfths of an inch.
59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226.
A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is
entirely smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire
slightly concave, edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous
line, the outer lip is very thick, grooved on its inner edge, and
the columella is distinctly plaited.
It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this
genus are so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to
increase the number of the already too much extended lists of
Lamarck and others.
60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220.
Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13.
Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473.
Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2
t. 34. f. 353. 354.
61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261.
Icon. —
62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238.
Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483.
Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964,
965.
63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162.
Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105.
f. 990, 991.
This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck,
except that the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red
colour.
64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n.
Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189.
Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6.
65. Tritonium australe, n.
Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179.
Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11.
Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868.
66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150.
Icon. —
This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the
varices, like it, neither form a complete series, nor are they
alternate, so that it does not agree exactly with the characters
of either genus.
67. Fusus verrucosus, n.
Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557.
Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356.
68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480.
Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6.
69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1
460.
Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9.
70. Conus maurus (n.s.)
Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira
subdepressa mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis
notata.
Icon. —
Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two
brown bands; spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the
epidermis pale greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad
blue bands, in the front of which is enclosed the canal; axis one
and a half, diameter one inch.
71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7
378. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 76.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328.
Ency. Meth. t. 352 f. 1, 2.
72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382.
Gray, Zool. Journal 1 367.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234.
Ency. Meth. t. 353. f. 3.
The shells of this species that are found on the North-east
Coast of Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only
scattered markings.
73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7
377. Gray, Zool. Jour. 1 79.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319.
Ency. Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b.
74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388.
Oray, Zool. Journal 1 151.
Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402.
Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231.
Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b.
75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402.
Gray, Zool. Journal 1 494.
Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f.
7.
76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493.
Icon. —
77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401.
Gray, Zool. Journal 1 492.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338.
Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 3.
78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1
385.
Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411.
Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392.
Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21.
79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406.
Lam. Hist. 7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495.
Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33.
f. 316. Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4.
80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7
394. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n.
41.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225.
Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b.
81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam.
Hist. 7 398.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f.
326, 327. Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13.
82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam.
Hist. 7 400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515.
Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3.
83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306,
307.
84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404.
Icon. —
85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79.
A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description
excepting in having five instead of three or four plaits on the
columella, was brought up by the sounding line. The shell is
longitudinally grooved, and very remarkable for being furnished
with numerous, rather distant, smooth, narrow, raised spiral
bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally striated; the
nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary.
86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314.
Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452.
Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429.
Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the
authority of Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the
shell before me; excepting that the spots round the suture form
nearly a continual band at a little distance from it; the outer
lip is smooth and thin; the inside dull livid brown; the axis is
fourteen-twelfths, the diameter seven-twelfths, of an inch.
87. Marginella minuta (n.s.)
Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea
obtusiuscula, labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata.
Icon. —
Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly
as long as the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat
inflexed; columella with four distinct plaits; axis
three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an inch.
88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210.
Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519.
Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet.
Einl. in Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a.
b.
89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f.
803-806.
90. Strombus australis (n.s.)
Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida
fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato
posterius lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?)
sulcato.
Icon. — ?
Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with
pale, fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as
the shell; the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more
prominent than the rest, the one nearest the suture being acute
and tuberculated; the canal recurved; the outer lip thickened,
ending in a projecting lobe behind, and edged with two or three
blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured, furrowed; the inner
lip much thickened.
This shell is one of the five species which have been
confounded with Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S.
zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1485, 1486, in form and
throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156.
f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true S. auris
dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell
figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1,
2, which I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to
be the young of a new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84.
f. 338, 339, and by Seba, 3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly
allied to S. bituberculatus of Lamarck.
91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196.
Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508.
Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f.
858, 859.
This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10
t. 155. f. 1478.
92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408.
Icon. —
This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister.
Conch. t. 714. f. 72. with which it has been generally
confounded; it is of larger size and perfectly smooth.
93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.)
Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida
laevis concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato.
Icon. —
The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth,
very slightly concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not
perforated; the aperture rather longer than the shell; the inner
lip slightly reflexed; axis five-twelfths, diameter
three-twelfths of an inch.
94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.)
Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208.
Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154.
95. Hipponix listeri (n.)
Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29.
This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal
is evidently not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not
always) a shelly support, but corrodes the surface of the shell
to which it is attached, so as to form a more flat attachment,
and to leave a lunate convex rib instead of the lunate muscular
impression which is observed on those specimens or individuals
which have a shelly base.
96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275.
Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen.
Patella japonica, Donovan.
Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79.
97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414.
Icon.
The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular
concentric lines, smooth except near the suture where it is
slightly wrinkled; whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate,
about half as long as the shell; peristome thin (perhaps not
formed); perforation covered with a white even lip, surrounded by
a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown.
This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third’s
Sound, in the vicinity of Bald Head.
98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.)
Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida
fasciis binis fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5
convexis concentrice sulcatis.
Icon. —
Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown
bands on each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the
other, placed on the middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five;
convex rounded, with numerous close concentric furrows; axis
umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow, deep; aperture rather more
than one half the length of the shell; peristome (not formed ?)
simple.
99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.)
Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro
laevi.
Icon. —
Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous
small tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal
ligament smooth, bald.
100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179.
Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913.
101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100.
Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917.
When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the
figure above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately
striated.
102. Patella neglecta (n.)
Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel.
Icon. Sow. Gen. f.
When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have
lived in deep water, where their surface has not been broken by
the shingle, or corroded, or covered with coralloid
incrustations, they are regularly radiately ribbed; the ribs are
covered with narrow intermediate grooves, marked with a black
spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is permanent
through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is
pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression.
In the older specimens the central disk is often of a pure
opaque-white, and the muscular impressions round the inner edge
of the shell are both pellucid brownish-white; length four
inches, breadth three, height two inches.
This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the
Third’s Sound.
In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species
of this genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great
confusion in which the various species of Patella are involved, I
do not venture to describe it as a new shell, although there has
not been any hitherto described to which, in its present state,
it can with any certainty be referred. It is conical, convex,
with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs alternately
increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad, with
irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to
be caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer
coat; the inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge
sinuated and furnished with grooves under the larger ribs.
103. Haliotis roei (n.s.)
Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter
sulcata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira
prominula.
Icon. —
Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or
brownish, regular; closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and
irregularly and roughly concentrically striated and plaited; the
row of perforations is rather prominent, and pierced with six or
seven moderate-sized, slightly tubular, holes; the inside is
iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and exhibits two distinct
whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened, outer lip
rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about
one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and
consists of three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge.
This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been
named after Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the
expedition.
It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f.
1604, but differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly
ribbed.
104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.)
Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata
spiraliter striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira
prominula, foraminibus parvis.
Icon. —
Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very
slightly concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly,
spirally, striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated,
pierced with eight or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the
spire rather prominent, apex placed about one-fourth of the
breadth of the shell from the sutural angle on the outer lip,
consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge; the inside
expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl; the
columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin,
truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about
one-third the length of the outer lip from the end of the
columella lip: length six inches, breadth five.
This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after
Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage.
This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is
quite distinct from it.
105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.)
Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens
spiraliter costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce
margaritacea, spira retusa.
Icon.
Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose,
plaited and spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and
furnished with numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of
perforations scarcely round contains ten or twelve rather large
holes; the spire slightly raised, very near the edge, consisting
of two or three very rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside
concave, showing the external ribs, reddish pearly; the columella
lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip thin, strait, or cut
out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the length of the
outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two, breadth
one inch and a quarter.
This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and
curved lower face, as well as its outer surface.
106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256.
Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139.
107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115.
Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66.
Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218.
Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c.
This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three
inches and a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest
Island, on the West Coast.
PTEROPODA.
108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim.
Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.
Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246.
Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578.
Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net
in the Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland
to Mauritius.
109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.
Two or three species of this shell were presented to the
Museum by Mr. Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved
to be very distinct from J. fragilis, from the description of its
float by Dr. Coates in the transactions of the Society of Natural
Science of Philadelphia. See Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page
385.
110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286.
Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059.
Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124.
Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus.
4 t. 59. Anatomy.
CEPHALOPODA.
111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102.
Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b.
Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601.
Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163.
Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371.
Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f.
184, 185. Ency. Method. ut supra Animal.
Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus,
which will be taken notice of at a future period, as they require
particular examination and minute comparison with those found
upon the coasts of Italy and other parts of Europe.
Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which
the following numbers refer, have been presented to the British
Museum, namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46,
48, 90, 91, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103.
A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF
TERRA AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN
SHORES.
BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM,
COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW.
It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a
colonial vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South
Wales, for the purpose of exploring the whole of the
North-western Coasts of New Holland, and that portion of the
North Coast, not seen by that able navigator, the late Captain
Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was thereby afforded for
a partial examination of the plants of those unknown shores, with
a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge of the
very interesting Flora of this southern continent.
Having materially profited by a twelvemonth’s previous
residence in New South Wales, acquainting myself with the
characters (and principal peculiarities of structure) of many
genera of plants absolutely proper to Terra Australis; and
particularly in that period, throughout the progress of a long
and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward of
Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an
instruction I received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph
Banks, on behalf of the Government, directing me to place myself
under the orders of Captain P.P. King, to whom the execution of
this important service had been intrusted, and to accompany him
to those particular coasts, destined for his investigation, in
order to form and prepare such collections of their vegetation,
for the use of His Majesty’s gardens at Kew, as circumstances,
and the particular season of the year proper for visiting those
shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants
of that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking
feature in its Flora, was moreover essentially improved during
our stay at King George’s Sound on the South-west Coast, previous
to our arrival upon the North-west Coast, at the commencement of
the first voyage of His Majesty’s cutter the Mermaid.
Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King’s
relation of the several voyages, of the opportunities that were
afforded me in forming my collections of plants, still it appears
necessary, in this place, to take a general retrospective view of
those parts of the coasts under examination, whereon my
researches were made, adverting, at the same time, to the
prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, during which
it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could alone be
effected with safety.
During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of
the North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his
examinations, in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of
the islands of Dampier’s Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands,
and on Malus Island; but the results of these several excursions
(in some of which ample time was afforded me) did by no means
answer my expectations; herbaceous plants being for the most part
dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs scarcely bearing
fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the extreme
barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent
droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon,
which soon afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the
North-west Coast altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage
being employed in the examination of certain parts of the North
Coast.
We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of
September of the following year, resuming the survey at its
northern extremity, under the most flattering views, and with a
favourable season for the prosecution of that primary object of
the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and 129 degrees, on the
parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion of the
vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long
established droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing
fructification, gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port
Warrender, and especially in Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten
days) was nevertheless considerable and highly interesting,
belonging, however, almost wholly to established genera of which
Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking up of
the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his
examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however,
returned in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from
the point at which we had left those shores the preceding year. I
had very eligible opportunities of landing upon the shores of
Montagu Sound, Capstan Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially
at the head of Hunter’s River, at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening
Bay, Port Nelson; at which several parts the collections formed
were very important, but not extensive.
Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the
repair of the vessel, enabled me to examine the country around,
to the distance of four or five miles; but it being at the height
of the dry season, comparatively few flowering plants were
detected, and no herbaceous plants of importance. Our prolonged
stay there also enabled me to form some idea of the Flora of its
shores and neighbouring country, from which I gathered materials
for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour River, situated
at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite shore of
the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast,
together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated,
towards the close of this general notice. Very few new genera
were the fruits of this third voyage, but many undescribed plants
of old genera were discovered, and with those that are frequent
on the North Coast, and tropical shores of New South Wales, some
were remarked that were originally discovered on the South Coast.
The period again arrived, that rendered it necessary to depart
from the coast, independent of the leaky state of our vessel,
which materially hastened our return to Port Jackson, when the
cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, in which
the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of the
line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important
service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently
named the Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from
Port Jackson, in May, 1821, to those parts of the coasts then
remaining unexplored, at which we arrived at the close of July.
Our very limited stay on those shores, however, was at that
season wherein all vegetation was suffering under the excess of
drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of ascertaining
the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent’s River,
Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast
explored in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that
were examined the preceding year, at a like season, but under
circumstances much more favourable. Upon our return to the
North-west Coast from the Mauritius, early in 1822, the only part
visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 degrees to the
south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening at a
season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an
abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally
discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during
the Investigator’s voyage.
Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen
during the Bathurst’s voyage, very little can be said in
reference to its vegetable productions, and most probably nothing
can be here advanced, tending to augment our very scanty
knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long since, through the
medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more especially
by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin’s voyage. I had no
opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run
northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest
Island, and repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk
Hartog’s Island, off Shark’s Bay, where I gathered, under every
discouragement of season, some of the most important portions of
its rich vegetation; in many instances, however, in very
imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general features led
me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of the
botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more
than probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an
inference from its aspect at widely distant parts.
Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly
surveyed during the Mermaid’s first voyage, at a period
immediately subsequent to the season of the rains, I had very
favourable opportunities of increasing my collections upon the
Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and Raffles, Croker’s Island,
Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van Diemen’s Gulf; and
among many described species, discovered formerly in the great
Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new
plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of
the several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales
within the tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by
Captain Cook, entered into the plans of the Mermaid’s second
voyage; and it was highly gratifying to my feelings to reflect
that it was reserved for me to complete several specimens
discovered formerly in imperfect states by those eminent
naturalists who accompanied the above great circumnavigator, in
1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since this period
of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those
particular parts of the coast having presented themselves.
The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed
during the progress of the four voyages under the general
circumstances above briefly referred to, and which, as
constituting a small Herbarium, will be thus collectively spoken
of in the following remarks, does not exceed one thousand three
hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five hundred and
twenty are already described by authors, the other portion being
in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other
coasts of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable,
however, mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants,
there are but few species, and of these, or parasitical
Orchideae, none have been detected in these voyages in addition
to those already described: a circumstance, that with respect to
the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted for, from the
non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very moderate
elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of
character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture,
which constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of
almost the whole of these tribes): and the consequent general
exposure to the sun of those arid shores.
Limited in number as the new species really are, they will
nevertheless constitute, when added to the discoveries recently
made, through the medium of expeditions to the interior, from the
colony of Port Jackson, very important materials to carry on that
Flora of Australia, so very ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since
that eminent botanist has already advanced much important matter
in the valuable essay, published at the close of the account of
Captain Flinders’ voyage, respecting the relative proportions of
the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far as they
had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive
materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its
Flora, and the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply
submit a few general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of
established natural families, that have been discovered in the
progress of these voyages; closing this paper with some
observations, chiefly illustrative of the geographical diffusion
of several Australian plants known to authors, whose localities
have hitherto been exceedingly limited.
PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of
Terra Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes
through climates favourable for the production of certain genera
of this remarkable natural family, it is singular that so few of
the order should have been discovered: a fact in the history of
the Australian vegetation, which (upon contemplating the natural
economy of many other genera of plants) can only be considered as
accounted for, by the great tendency to drought of at least
three-fifths of its shores.
To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera
that have been enumerated in the productions of the Australian
Flora, may now be added Calamus; of which a species (discovered
without fructification, by Sir Joseph Banks, during the
celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at length been detected
bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River. The existence
of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is
confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the
parallels of 15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range
be more extensive, it is southerly one or two degrees, in which
direction a remarkable primary granitic formation of the coast
continues, throughout the whole neighbourhood of which is a
peculiar density of dark moist forest, seemingly dependent on it,
and evidently indispensable to the life of this species of
Calamus; but at the termination of this geological structure, it
most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low stature,
and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded
forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees
South, bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf
state of a species of that genus, which has lately been observed,
with all its tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now
be recognised as a sixth individual of the family whose
fructification has been seen.
Although this order has been observed to be sparingly
scattered along the line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth
degree of south latitude, its range on the opposite shores of the
continent is very limited. Upon the North-west Coast, the genus
Livistona alone has been remarked, in about latitude 15 degrees
South; beyond which, throughout a very extensive line of
depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms were seen.
If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to
produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with
respect to this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes,
appearing very important) those portions of the western shores
recently seen, indicate no one character that would justify the
supposition of the existence of the Palmae in the corresponding
extremes of the respective parallels that produce them on the
opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to the economy of
this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to the
coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded
situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never
been detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much
less in the distant country to the westward of that extensive
boundary.
ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the
Herbarium, referred to this family, that were collected upon the
East and South-west Coasts, are specimens in complete
fructification of a remarkable plant of arborescent growth,
having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits of Dracaena.
It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline of
Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has
an extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for
the most part been observed within the tropic, it extends
nevertheless as far as latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants
of Asphodeleae remarked on the north-western shores, were an
imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of Mr. Brown, discovered by
that gentleman during the Investigator’s voyage on the South
Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in
latitude fifteen degrees South.
CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that
part of Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be
added some important facts, to be gathered from the plants in the
Herbarium of the late voyages, that will afford a very correct
view of the fructification of some doubtful genera, as well as
their limits. Among these the fruit of Podocarpus aspleniifolia
of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with the female
fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at the
southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen’s Land, which
may prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species
are known, and principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson,
has also been discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about
latitude 15 degrees South; and another species, remarkable for
its general robust habit, was observed at Rottnest Island, on the
West Coast. A tree, most certainly of this family, and probably
(from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon the East Coast,
within the tropic, but the absence of fructification prevented
its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the
extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent
specimens gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to
be a Podocarpus; and another, producing a cone, and solitary,
alternate scattered elliptical leaves, shows its relation to
Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar pine of Amboina.
URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to
equinoctial countries, may be considered very limited in those
parts of Terra Australis lying within the tropic recently
explored. Ficus is the most considerable genus of the order in
that continent; and although chiefly found on the north and
north-western shores, is also traced on the East Coast, almost to
latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an enormous
size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of
the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been
gathered on the North-west Coast.
A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered
upon the continent and islands of New South Wales within the
tropic, where also a new genus of the order, with radiated
leaves, has been traced as far as Endeavour River. Of the genus
Urtica, whose numerous species can simply be considered as of
herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical existence assume
a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of the
Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent
growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to
twenty feet in height, of proportional robust habit, and of
highly stimulating nature.
SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of
the order described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of
Port Jackson, upon the shores of the South Coast, and in Van
Diemen’s Land. The genus Choretrum, however, heretofore limited
to the southern extremes of the continent, approaches within
about two degrees of the tropic on the West Coast, having been
lately observed on Dirk Hartog’s Island. It is rather remarkable
that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the feature
of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the
North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds
of plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been
remarked. Those extensive shores (generally speaking) are not
wanting in the order, for two species of the tropical genus
Santalum, Exocarpus, and a globular-fruited Fusanus, were
collected in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South.
(*Footnote. Towards the North-west
Cape.)
PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown’s valuable
dissertation on this very extensive natural family, in which were
described all the species known at that period, a few important
discoveries have been made in Terra Australis, particularly on
the North-west Coast, where the order seems to be limited to
Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia.
In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens
of thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages
of perfection; of these seven are described from specimens
formerly gathered upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of
Carpentaria; the remaining six are, however, perfectly new, and
will chiefly augment the last section of that genus, having hard
(in some instances spherical) woody follicles, containing seeds
orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or less
dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists
may deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The
range of this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown,
Cycloptera, has been hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria,
and the tropical shores of the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea,
hitherto almost wholly excluded from the tropical parts of
Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species formerly
observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least two
plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees
south latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George’s
Sound, whilst the other proves an entirely new species, belonging
to the first section of the genus, having long filiform leaves,
and ecalcarated capsules.
Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were
observed having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast,
but being without fructification, their identity could not be
satisfactorily determined.
Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular
fact in the geographical history of this genus, that its species,
which have been traced through almost every meridian of the South
Coast, upon the islands in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen’s Land, and
widely scattered throughout the whole extent of New South Wales
to the North Coast, at which extreme of the continent, B. dentata
has been observed as far west as longitude 130 degrees East,
should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast. Why the
links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the
seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of
their general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the
growth of the greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge
of the West Coast (properly so called) does not afford us
materials to hazard even a partial conclusion, relative to the
existence of this family on its shores, excepting from the total
absence of any one plant of Proteaceae at those parts of Rottnest
and Dirk Hartog’s Islands visited during the Bathurst’s voyage;
an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of any part of
the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no
species have been found common to shores opposite to each other,
in the higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides,
Persoonia falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established
upon the East Coast, and the north-western shores, in the
parallel of about 15 degrees South: but whilst this geographical
diffusion has been remarked in reference to those particular
species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant discovered at
Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well
defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which
it appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one
hundred and twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the
progress of the land expedition above referred to, the discovery
of another plant of this natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in
New South Wales, in a tract of country west of the coastline,
about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I am informed it is a
timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly it
constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown,
a native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some
specimens.
LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are
admitted to be very nearly allied to each other) seems in
Australia to exist on its eastern coast, within and beyond the
tropic, and the species in the collection lately formed, are
referred to ten established genera, of which (as belonging to
Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable on the
North-western Coast.
Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere’s genus
Prostranthera was discovered upon Dirk Hartog’s Island, where, as
also at Rottnest Island, Westringia was observed, of species,
however, common to the South Coast.
BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to
the limits of certain genera of the order have been proposed by
Mr. Brown in his Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled
to the exclusion of certain species previously referred to them
by authors. Of Cordia (to which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of
Ruiz and Pavon, have at length been united) only two species have
been found in Terra Australis, of which one had been previously
discovered in New Caledonia; and during the late voyages C.
orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast, where a
third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was
discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that
section of Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated
inflorescence, which were also found on those equinoctial parts
of the continent.
BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order
are described by authors, the greater part of which are at
present incorporated among the genuine species of Bignonia of
Linne; a genus that will hereafter be divided, according to the
shape of the calyx, the number of fertile stamina, and more
especially the form of the fruit (which in some species is an
orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long
cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at
one extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua)
together with the relative position of the dissepiment, in
respect to the valves of the fruit.
The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the
equinoctial parts of America; Some, however, are natives of
India, and a few occur on the western coast of Africa, and Island
of Madagascar, but in Terra Australis the order is reduced to
four plants, of which one is a recent discovery, and may be
referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order exists only
upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely
limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in
latitude 34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced
at least three hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the
westward of the colony of Port Jackson.
ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in
the recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural
families, have been described from specimens formerly discovered
upon the East and North Coasts, several of which appear to give a
partial character to the vegetation of some parts of its
shores.
Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema,
Gymnanthus, Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to
Asclepiadeae, and all the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted)
referred to the latter order, exist on that extensive coast,
where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an accession of species. Of
Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably produces its
flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of this
genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its
fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known
respecting the plant being the form and size of its fruit, which
in some species varies considerably.
GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this
considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and
to the southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is
reduced to Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne
on the North-west Coast, and the few species of the two first
genera prove to have been formerly discovered upon the South
Coast during the voyage of Captain Flinders, of which one plant
has alsa a much more extensive range than has been given it
heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a portion of
the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog’s Island on the West
Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very
considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a
direction towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance
in the latitude of Port Jackson, so near that colony as the
meridian of 146 degrees 30 minutes East. A new Velleia,
discovered on the North-west Coast in latitude 16 degrees,
augments that genus, belonging to the section with a
pentaphyllous calyx.
RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive
family in the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially
when aided by some individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes,
that form a prominent feature in the Flora of other equinoctial
countries, tend, in some measure, to diminish the peculiar
character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on those shores,
and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of a part
of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty
species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for
the most part belonging to genera existing in India, but more
abundant in the tropical parts of South America.
Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria,
and Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in
corresponding parallels on the opposite, or north-western shores,
the order, although not materially reduced, is limited to the two
latter genera, with Rondeletia, Ixora, and Genipa.
It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which
has not been observed beyond the tropics in other countries,
extends in New South Wales as far south as the latitude of 35
degrees; at the western extremity of which it does not appear to
exist.
CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in
the system, appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu
associated them with Rhizophora, in the second section of this
order, from which Mr. Brown has separated this latter genus, and
with two others found in Terra Australis, has constructed a
distinct family, named Rhizophoreae; suggesting, at the same
time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to Santalaceae, and
particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of which nearly
the whole of its described species have been limited to the
tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of
Australia, where about eleven species have been recently
observed, parasitical chiefly upon certain trees that constitute
the mass of the forests of that vast continent; namely,
Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and Melaleuca.
A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual
natural economy of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L.
floribunda) described and figured by M. Labillardiere, which is
found on the shores of King George’s Sound, where, in no way
recognising the dependent habits of its congeners, it rises from
the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being never remarked
relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum is
found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined,
having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast,
within the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to
be nearly beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the
northern hemisphere, Loranthus exists in Siberia.
UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium
contains only three or four plants of this extensive European
order, belonging to Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and
Labillardiere (from which Trachymene of Rudge is probably not
distinct) and a suffruticose plant referred to Cussonia, that
have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon the north-western
shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species is very
general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its
gigantic herbaceous growth.
MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately
discovered upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which
are alone worthy of remark here, it is to be observed, that,
considering the many points of that coast visited during the
progress of the relative voyages, the number of species observed
are comparatively few, for, including Eucalyptus, it does not
exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only seven species
were detected on those shores, and these, for the most part, form
small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all their
congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to
three species, one of which was originally discovered by the
celebrated navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where
Beaufortia has been recently seen. Four species of Tristania,
their related genus, were gathered in about latitude 15 degrees
South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit, was observed; but of
Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging to the higher
latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout the
whole extent of coast examined.
RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni
of Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other
in the position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and
in the character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other
important differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to
modify and define them as distinct orders.
In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants
belonging to Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and
Celastrus, but both families prove to be comparatively rare in
the intratropical parts of Terra Australis, beyond which
Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the north-western shores, a
species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North Coasts) forms a
tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed Celastrus has
been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from the
verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port
Jackson, where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the
South Coast, it is highly probable the West Coast is not wanting
of the genus, particularly as traces of it were found on Dirk
Hartog’s Island.
LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty
species of this extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently
formed, which bear a proportion to the aggregate of the entire
collections of about one to nine.
Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met
with upon all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused
in the interior) forms a leading characteristic of its
vegetation, upwards of fifty species have been collected, in
various stages of fructification; nearly the whole of which are
unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on the
north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also
extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the
existence of a few appears limited to a solitary particular
situation, and no one species was observed common to those parts,
and the opposite or eastern shores of the continent.
The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species,
two-thirds of which belong to established diadelphous genera,
found chiefly within the tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra
Australis, and heretofore limited to the more temperate regions,
have been discovered. Thus Hovea and Bossiaea were detected in
New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees South, as well as
on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise found on the
north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia exist;
and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally
discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an
island off the West Coast.
Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14
and 15 degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual
characteristic of the Flora of other countries might in this case
be so termed) is as manifest, and is as strongly blended with the
pure Australian character (Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general
vegetation, as on any other parts of those shores; Jacksonia and
Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae, with distinct stamens,
almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and the South
Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the
higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North
Coast. Of Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant
genus Guilandina, are all of intratropical existence in New South
Wales, as also upon the North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it
has an equal extensive range in the equinoctial parts of New
Holland, has also been recently traced as far in the interior, on
the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of 146 degrees
East.
EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of
this very numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist
in India and equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian
species are referable to established Linnean genera, of which
Croton and Phyllanthus are most remarkable and numerous, existing
on all the intratropical shores of Terra Australis, but by no
means limited to them, both genera, together with Euphorbia and
Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson; and Croton
exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen’s Land,
which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere.
A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in
India) is sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and
Acalypha has been remarked on these, as well as the north-western
shores.
PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and
limits were first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen
species in the Herbarium of these voyages, referable to Bursaria,
Billardiera, Pittosporum, and two unpublished genera.
Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which
are not found north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent
on the South-west Coast, and has been recently remarked on the
West Coast of Van Diemen’s Land. Bursaria on the other hand,
appearing limited to New South Wales, has been traced within the
tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those eastern shores, and
although the genus Pittosporum is even more extensively diffused
on that coast, it has not been met with upon the north-western
shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me with
two new species.
DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of
Terra Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar
character to their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare
within the tropic; for upon the East Coast Eriostemon and
Phebalium appear to be the only genera, the latter having been
recently discovered, in about latitude 20 degrees South.
With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied
to Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in
the parallel of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified
fimbriated calyx.
Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr.
Brown to be separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is
frequent on the tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of
Zygophyllum, with linear conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit,
was remarked upon an island off Shark’s Bay, on the West
Coast.
MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is
in the equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in
the form of the remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation
or insertion of the antherae upon it, as well as the character of
its almost wholly capsular fruit. This structure of nectarium is
most striking in Turraea, of which a species was observed upon
the East Coast, far within the tropic; where also, as well as on
all the other equinoctial shores of the continent, Carapa, more
remarkable on account of the valvular character of its capsules,
and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very
general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C.
moluccensis, Lam.) of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his
Herbarium Amboinense volume 3 table 61, 62.
SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in
the Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one
an Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35
degrees, as also within the tropic; and the other, which appears
to belong to Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in
latitude 31 degrees South, the type of the genus being the bois
de fer of the French colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the
Island of Mauritius.
MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent.
Buttnericeae, Brown. These several families, of which the first
is by far the most extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as
so many allied orders of one natural class, to which the general
title of Malvaceae might be applied. About thirty-six species of
these orders collectively, are preserved in the present
Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine are
most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the
botany of India, and the equinoctial parts of South America.
Fourteen species of Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the
intratropical Coasts of Australia, beyond which also, on the
opposite shores of the continent, each genus has been remarked.
One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and subspherical
obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East Coast,
in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western
extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of
Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in
other countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the
latitude of 34 degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in
the western interior, and in that direction it has been traced to
the distance of three hundred miles from the sea-coast. The genus
is also found on the North and North-west Coasts, where the
species assume more particularly the habits of their congeners in
India. Among the plants of this family in the Herbarium is a
species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present) which was
observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the
contortion that characterizes the genus.
This plant, together with three other described species,
having straight capsules, may hereafter be separated from that
Linnean genus, and constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia,
Corchorus, Triumfetta, and Waltheria, have been observed upon the
North-west Coast, where also Abroma, hitherto limited to the
tropical parts of New South Wales, has been discovered bearing
flowers and young fruit. One species of Commersonia was gathered
at widely-different parts of the north-western shores, and
Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes of
the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen
just within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog’s
Island, off Shark’s Bay, on the opposite shore.
CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been
discovered upon the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part
within the tropic, but of these the fructification of two are
wanting. A few have been detected on the East Coast, but they are
more frequent and various in their species upon the north-western
shores of the continent. Within an area on this extensive coast,
not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the parallel of 15
degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit, has
been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia
of the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of
visiting those parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had
previously cast its foliage of the preceding year, which is of
quinary insertion, but it bore ripe fruit, which is a large
elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule (a bacca corticosa)
containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy substance. Its
flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the
characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this
natural family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of
Capparis pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of
Mauritius, which he has named Calyptranthus. It has one division
of the calyx so formed, that by its arcuated concavity (before
expansion) it conceals the whole flower, and the other portions
of the calyx; and should this genus be adopted by future
botanists, a second species has been recently discovered upon
Dirk Hartog’s Island, although of remarkably different habit.
Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of
Australia, and like Capparis, several species exist on the
North-west Coast, being limited to C. viscosa in New South
Wales.
Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is
generally diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour
River, and on the North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the
southern extremes of Van Diemen’s Land.
DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately
enumerated by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in
addition, only two species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit
Thouars. The one discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied
to H. angustifolium of Mr. Brown; the other proving also new, but
approaching in character the doubtful species, H. leschenaultii
of Decandolle, and was discovered upon Rottnest Island, off the
western coast of the continent, and is the first certain species
of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical existence.
In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain
natural orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the
stated circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other
detached genera, or families sparingly observed on these coasts,
that were more particularly investigated during the progress of
the late voyages; but as these several plants form portions of
orders so extremely limited, and in themselves presenting nothing
remarkable in their internal structure, or external habit, a few
remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation of the
North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will
conclude this notice.
It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and
collected upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are
not to be considered as even a distant approach to an entire
Flora of that extensive line of shore; since the long-established
droughts of the seasons (as already remarked) in which the
greater part of that coast was visited, had wholly destroyed
plants of annual duration, with most of the Gramineae, and had
indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous vegetation.
The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a gleaning,
affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as
will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more
minutely defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of
the continent, as well as perceive its general, and, in some
instances, almost total want of relation to the botany of other
parts, in the more temperate or higher latitudes, where certain
striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora more particularly
exist.
Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus
formed on the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and
East Coasts, aided also by some few observations made during the
voyages, it appears that (with the exception of Gompholobium,
Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two unpublished species not
referred to any family) the genera (of which several are proper
to India) are the same, although the species are very distinct
upon the several coasts.
Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon
their opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others,
frequent upon the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the
north-western shores: of these, the existence of some, even in
the tropical parts of New South Wales, seems governed by the
primary formation of the coast, its mountainous structure, and
consequent permanency of moisture in a greater or less degree;
namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical
Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae)
Commelina and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a
solitary Australian genus of Scitamineae, some genera of
Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria and Coffea, certain genera of
Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus allied to it, whose
fructification is at length obtained, a solitary plant of
Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea.
Other genera also, but little influenced by those local
circumstances of situation on the East Coast, that are excluded
from the opposite shores, are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial
genus of Epacrideae observed during the late voyages) the
families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus Erythrina, and of
Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of several
orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New
South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at
the same time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of
species on the former coast, would suggest the opinion, that such
plants alone of other parts of the continent are indigenous to
the North-west Coast, as are capable of sustaining themselves in
a soil subjected to seasons of protracted parching droughts. This
may apply to some species upon that coast, but it cannot be
reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is
singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts,
and particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae
(than those already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil,
should have been discovered throughout any part of its extensive
shore; whilst, on the other hand, at a peculiar structure of a
small and limited portion of that coast, in the vicinity of York
Sound, a sufficiency of shade was observed to be actually
produced by the unusually broken character of the country, to
favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to be
seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were
Myristica insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince
of Wales group of islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya
triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an
undescribed Eugenia.
Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the
north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts
of the continent, there is, among the many species which are
absolutely proper to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary
habit, as to form a feature in the landscape of a limited extent
of its shores, in the enormous bulk of its stem and general
ramification, bearing a striking analogy to the Adansonia of the
west coast of Africa.
The results of such observations on the vegetation as could
only be made in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme
of the North-west Coast, show their little affinity to each
other; for the northern extremity partakes more fully of that
feature of the line of coast contiguous to it, which (as already
remarked) extends along the north-western shores, declines
materially at, and in the vicinity of their southern limits,
where the characteristic vegetation of the south, and perhaps the
west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides Eucalyptus
and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally
diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been
penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed,
which is, however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three
species. This is Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New
South Wales, within and beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and
generally in the interior of the country, extending also to the
southern extremity of Van Diemen’s Land.
Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent
(excepting of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included
between the parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is
entirely confined to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon
every distinct coast of which, landings, more or less frequent,
and under various circumstances, have been effected; although of
all, very considerable portions remain unexplored, and of the
line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the shores of
Shark’s Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been
scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic
remains entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want
of large streams having a distant source, to aid a penetration to
the internal parts of the country, together with other effectual
obstacles, draw at present a veil, and forbid all research into
its Natural History and character, which will not be removed for
very considerable periods (perhaps ages) yet to come!
It was the general remark made during a former expedition in
the interior of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change
takes place in the vegetation east of the meridian of the new
settlement named Bathurst; but that the plants of the coast were
more or less frequent at a hundred and fifty miles from the sea,
although in a country estimated at about two thousand feet above
its level. Having to this circumstance added a remarkable and
obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of a vein
of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired,
how far these facts might, when applied to other parallels,
identify a certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that
of the sea-coast in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how
far the botany of the coast indicates the general feature of the
vegetation to a certain limit, in the interior on the same
parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded me, to compare
the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at the
eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the
results of such a comparison identified many species on the two
coasts. I have annexed a list of those plants that are common to
the North-west and East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15
degrees South, from a contemplation of which, together with the
above remarks, and a further comparison of the species with those
of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, through which that
degree of latitude passes, might not a general idea of some
portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate interior (far
beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed?
A few observations relative to the geographical range of
certain genera and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed,
will close this notice.
The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as
equinoctial; nor was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily,
that one of its species (P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the
shores of Port Macquarie in New South Wales, in latitude 31
degrees South: and I have been credibly informed, that the same
plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port Stephens, which is at
least a degree to the southward of the above parallel. The
latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost extreme
of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on
the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it
has not been remarked beyond the tropics.
The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed)
are remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very
considerable diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have
even a more general dispersion on the latter shores, than has
been allowed them formerly. Seaforthia is frequent in dense
forests on the East Coast, almost to latitude 35 degrees South,
where it exhibits all the tropical habits assumed on the northern
shores, although the difference of climate, and consequent
temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm of
very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous
foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in
latitude 12 degrees South, on the North Coast; and although
without fructification, no doubt existed of its being the Corypha
australis, hitherto limited to the shores and vicinity of Port
Jackson.
Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without
doubt, must have been particularly noticed by the celebrated
circumnavigator Captain Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New
South Wales, although the circumstance of the very general
existence of a pine upon the islands and main of that coast,
north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be mentioned in the
accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more extensive
range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During
the Mermaid’s voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of
Mount Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of
Norfolk Island (29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very
sparingly seen towards the tropic, within which, however, as far
as latitude 14 degrees, it is very abundant, forming upon several
islands the only timber. This is probably the nearest approach of
the species to the equinoctial line; and although it occupies an
area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably limited in Terra
Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be the case
with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea
air.
Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph
Banks, at Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently
detected in moist woods, in the country off which the Five
Islands are situate, extending on that shore to latitude 35
degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora, Br., a delicate plant
of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour River, abounds
in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same extensive
coast.
The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only
in Van Diemen’s Land, have been recently ascertained to exist
also in New South Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony
of Port Jackson.
Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the
South-west Coast, was seen in the interior, as far to the
westward of the colony as longitude 146 degrees East.
Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148
degrees.
Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the
interior, in the meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and
Daviesia latifolia of Mr. Brown is very frequent in societies
upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude 149 degrees East, where
also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was observed.
Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were
described by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the
southern extremes of the above island, and have been lately seen
tolerably frequent in a remarkable tract of country, in latitude
34 degrees, on the limit of the colony, where the former assumes
a robust, arborescent habit. Aster phlogopappus, of the same
eminent author, was recently remarked upon the more elevated
parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a remarkable
cataract.
A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF
TERRA AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES
SOUTH, WHERE THE BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES.
Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.
Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br.
Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn.
Flagellaria indica, L.
Dioscorea bulbifera, L.
*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br.
Cycas angulata, Br.
Santalum oblongatum, Br.
Exocarpus latifolia, Br.
Persoonia falcata, Br.
Grevillea mimosoides, Br.
Hakea arborescens, Br.
Buchnera ramosissima, Br.
Adenosma coerulea, Br.
Orthostemon erectum, Br.
Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br.
Carissa ovata, Br.
Strychnos lucida, Br.
Alyxia obtusifolia, Br.
Ipomoea longifiora, Br.
Ipomoea denticulata, Br.
Ipomoea maritima, Br.
Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.
Cuscuta carinata, Br.
Cordia orientalis, Br.
* Clerodendrum inerme, Br.
* Avicennia tomentosa, L.
Chionanthus axillaris, Br.
Olea paniculata, Br.
Maba laurina, Br.
Sersalisia obovata, Br.
Mimusops parvifolia, Br.
Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam.
Cleome viscosa, L.
Capparis sepiaria, L.
Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.
Abroma fastuosa, Br.
Bombax australis.
Jacksonia thesioides.
Bauhiniae sp.
Caesalpiniae sp.
Cassia occidentalis, L.
Guilandina Bonduc, L.
Morinda citrifolia, L.
* Carapa moluccensis, Lam.
Zizyphus melastomoides.
* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.
Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam.
Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in
the vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels
pass, generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list,
it is more than probable that these several species occupy
portions of the intermediate interior bounded by the meridians of
125 and 145 degrees East; those plants excepted, having an
asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming mangroves, or from
other causes exist only on the sea shore.
A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE
SHORES OF TERRA AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH
AMERICA.
Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw.
Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw.
Nephrodium exaltatum, Br.
Nephrodium unitum, Br.
Vittaria elongata, Sw.
Asplenium nidus, L.
Daval1ia flaccida, Br.
Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.
Flagellaria indica, L.
Dioscorea bulbifera, L.
Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd.
Aristolochia indica, L.
Daphne indica, L.
Salicornia indica, Willd.
Deeringia celosioides, Br.
Plumbago zeylanica, L.
Dischidia nummularifolia, Br.
Acanthus ilicifolius, L.
Acanthus ebracteatus, L.
Ipomea Turpethum, Br.
Ipomea denticulata, Br.
Ipomea maritima, Br.
Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.
Trichodesma zeylanica, Br.
Tournefortia argentea, L.
Cordia orientalis, Br.
Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br.
Clerodendrum inerme, Br.
Vitex ovata, L.
Vitex trifolia, L.
Avicennia tomentosa, L.
Mimusops kauki, L.
Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig.
Scaevola koenigii, Vahl.
Cleome viscosa, L.
Capparis sepiaria, L. ?
Calophyllum inophyllum, L.
Morinda citrifolia, L.
Carapa moluccensis, Lam.
Sophora tomentosa, L.
Cassia occidentalis, L.
Guilandina bonduc, L.
Abrus precatorius, L.
? Acacia scandens, Willd. ?
Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.
Suriana maritima, Jacqu.
Pemphis acida, Forst.
Rhizophora mangle, L. ?
Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.
Sonneratia acida, L.
Abroma fastuosa, Br.
Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst.
CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS
FOUND ON THE SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS
ON THE STRUCTURE OF ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE
FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE.
BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E.
F.L.S.
(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15,
1825.)
In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I
have mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in
the year 1801, near the shores of King George the Third’s Sound,
in Mr. Westall’s view of which, published in Captain Flinders’
Narrative, it is introduced.
The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect
remains of fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore,
merely from its habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees
with Xanthorrhoea, included the short notice given of it in my
remarks on Asphodeleae, to which that genus was referred.* Mr.
Cunningham, the botanist attached to Captain King’s voyages, who
examined the plant in the same place of growth, in February,
1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate than myself.
Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George’s Sound,
in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr.
William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to
this plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823,
both in flower and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his
liberal employer, Mr. Henchman, I am indebted for complete
specimens of its fructification, which enable me to establish it
as a genus distinct from any yet described.
(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page
576.)
To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain
King, who, during his important surveys of the Coasts of New
Holland, formed valuable collections in several departments of
Natural History, and on all occasions gave every assistance in
his power to Mr. Cunningham, the indefatigable botanist who
accompanied him. The name is also intended as a mark of respect
to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King, who, as
Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of
Captain Flinders’ voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand
Bauer and myself were indebted for important assistance in our
pursuits while we remained in that colony.
KINGIA.
ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem.
CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum,
persistens. Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis.
Ovarium triloculare, loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus.
Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum. Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens,
monospermum, perianthio scarioso cinctum.
Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens
cicatricibus basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem
terminantia confertissima longissima, figura et dispositione
Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi foliis breviores, bracteis
vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi terminales erecti, mox,
caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis productis, laterales,
et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso globoso
floribus tribracteatis.
Kingia australis. Table C.
DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus,
6-18-pedes altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia
numerosissima patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida,
ancipitia apice teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis
adpressis strictis acutis laevibus, angulis lateralibus et
ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi numerosi teretes
8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris brevibus
imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum
globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum
parvum aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati,
sessiles. Bractea exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula
erecta, extus villosa intus glabra, post lapsum fructus
persistens: duae laterales angusto-naviculares, acutissimae,
carina lateribusque villosis, longitudine fere exterioris, simul
cum perianthio fructifero, separatim tamen, dilabentibus.
Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale glumaceum: foliola
lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis
simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata
lateribus inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus
longitudinaliter sed extra medium praecipue villosa, intus
glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata. Stamina sex subaequalia,
aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim elongantibus: Filamenta
fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii quibus opposita
leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae stantes,
ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores,
defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis
parallelo-contiguis connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi
ventrali longitudinaliter dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus
acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex breve ovale laeve. Pistillum:
Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve cinctum, lanceolatum
trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis monospermis. Ovula
erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra basin suam
inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa
basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna
respectu testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta,
ovata apice angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus
cavitate membranae conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum
liber, pulposus solidus, apice acutiusculo laevi aperturam
membranae internae attingente. Stylus trigonus strictus, infra
villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine staminum, iisdem
paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa. Stigmata
tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum,
indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso
et filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen
turgidum obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici
membranaceo aqueo-pallido, bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula,
raphe fusca verticem retusum attingente ibique in chalazam parvam
concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini conforme dense carnosum
album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus subglobosus,
extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi seminis
situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus.
Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo
florido terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio
transversalis pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali,
sequentes omnes plus minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7,
anthera antice et, 8, eadem postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10,
ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem portio longitudinaliter
secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi replens; 12,
ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna solummodo
ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli
sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam
internam et nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli
fructiferi; 15, pericarpium perianthio filamentisque
persistentibus cinctum; 16, pericarpium perianthio avulso
filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen.
OBS. 1.
It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is
secreted by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea;
and whether, which is probable, it agrees also in the internal
structure of its stem with that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the
direction of fibres or vessels of the caudex seems at first sight
to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous arrangement, but in
reality much more nearly approaches to that of Dracaena draco,
allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme
narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels
belong.*
(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure
of Xanthorrhoea is chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex
of one of the larger species of the genus, brought from Port
Jackson, and deposited in the collection at the Jardin du Roi of
Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent botanist who was
attached to Captain De Freycinet’s voyage.)
OBS. 2.
I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with
Dasypogon, Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New
Holland, and of which the two former have hitherto been observed
only, along with it, on the shores of King George’s Sound.
The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to
Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus
also. Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute
comparison of the parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement
is still manifest to strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of
the importance of those characters, by which I attempted to
define certain families of the great class Liliaceae.
In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the
outer coat of the seed, and in those other points, on which I
then chiefly depended in distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae,
a more important character in Junceae exists in the position of
the embryo, whose radicle points always to the base of the seed,
the external umbilicus being placed in the axis of the inner or
ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in Kingia,
or towards the middle, as in Xerotes.
OBS. 3.
ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS
PLANTS.
The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia,
though essentially different from the accounts hitherto published
of that organ before fecundation, in reality agrees with its
ordinary structure in Phaenogamous plants.
I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the
agreement of this description with the usual structure of the
Ovulum, and its essential difference from the accounts of other
observers, as briefly as possible at present; in tending
hereafter to treat the subject at greater length, and also with
other views.
I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of
the Ovulum, chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before
fecundation, of the place and direction of the future Embryo.
These remarks, however, which were certainly very brief, seem
entirely to have escaped the notice of those authors who have
since written on the same subject.
(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean
Society Transactions 12 page page 136.)
In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders’
Voyage, published in 1814, the following description of the
Ovulum of Cephalotus follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra
testam membranaceam continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine
cavitatis testae, and in reference to this description, I have in
the same place remarked that, “from the structure of the Ovulum,
even in the unimpregnated state, I entertain no doubt that the
radicle of the Embryo points to the umbilicus.”*
(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.)
My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809,
in consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function
of the Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of
the observation now quoted, I had ascertained that in
Phaenogamous plants the unimpregnated Ovulum very generally
consisted of two concentric membranes, or coats, enclosing a
Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I had observed also, that
the inner coat had no connexion either with the outer or with the
nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation to the
outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in
direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the
nucleus the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be
found.
(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page
35.)
On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of
Cephalotus was formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I
employed, indeed, the less correct term sacculus, which, however,
sufficiently expressed the appearance of the included body in the
specimens examined, and served to denote my uncertainty in this
case as to the presence of the inner membrane.
I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several
plants, of a foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct
from, and in some cases diametrically opposite to the external
umbilicus, and which I had in no instance found cohering either
directly with the parietes of the Ovarium, or with any process
derived from them. But, as I was then unable to detect this
foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did not
attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the
direction of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the
apex of the nucleus, either directly by dissection, or indirectly
from the vascular cord of the outer membrane: the termination of
this cord affording a sure indication of the origin of the inner
membrane, and consequently of the base of the nucleus, the
position of whose apex is therefore readily determined.
In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in
1818, by my lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who,
eminently qualified for an investigation where minute accuracy
and great experience in microscopical observation were necessary,
succeeded in ascertaining the very general existence of the
foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But as the foramina in
these membranes invariably correspond both with each other and
with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the
future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and
more obvious than that which I had previously employed.
To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable
Ovulum differs from those hitherto given, and in some measure,
that its correctness may be judged of, I shall proceed to state
the various observations that have been actually made, and the
opinions that have been formed on the subject, as briefly as I am
able, taking them in chronological order.
In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of
many Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the
radicle of the Embryo, which, he adds, is “not a hole casually
made, or by the breaking off of the stalk,” but formed for
purposes afterwards stated to be the aeration of the Embryo, and
facilitating the passage of its radicle in germination. It
appears that he did not consider this foramen in the testa as
always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being
performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to
him, by the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in
the stone or shell.
(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy
of Plants page 2.)
In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the
early state of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the
testa; the other, his middle membrane, is evidently what I have
termed nucleus, whose origin in the Ovulum of the Apricot he has
distinctly represented and described.
(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table
80.)
Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state
of the Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his
chorion the nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though
he appears to have seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra
and fenestella, and these, to which he assigns the same
functions, are merely his terms for the hilum.
(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et
80.)
In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of
plants,* proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which
either the entire grains of pollen, or their particles after
bursting, may be supposed to reach and act upon the unimpregnated
Ovula, which he had himself carefully observed. With his usual
candour, however, he acknowledges his obligation on this subject
to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of them he
refers.
(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu
plantarum epistola page 8 46 et seq.)
Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek’s
hypothesis of generation to plants, assumes the existence of an
aperture in the Ovulum, through which it is impregnated. It
appears, indeed, that he had not actually observed this aperture
before fecundation, but inferred its existence generally and at
that period, from having, as he says, “discovered in the seeds of
beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end of what we call the
eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to the seminal
plant,” and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered. This
perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of
Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he
takes no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his
subject.
(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n.
287 page 1474.)
In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother
Claude Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis,
state the general existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated
vegetable Ovulum. It is not, however, probable that these authors
had really seen this aperture in the early state of the Ovulum in
any case, but rather that they had merely advanced from the
observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded on it by Morland,
whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to the
unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is
to be remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously
been observed or asserted on the more important parts of their
subject, while several passages are evidently copied, and the
whole account of the original state and development of the Ovulum
is literally translated from Camerarius’ Essay. Nor does the
younger Geoffroy mention the earlier publication of his brother,
from which his own memoir is in great part manifestly
derived.
(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia
Vermis? in auctoris Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page
123.)
(**Footnote. Mem. de l’Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711
page 210.)
In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of
generation, supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an
aura, conveyed by the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which
it enters, if I rightly understand him, by the funiculus
umbilicalis: at the same time he seems to admit the existence of
the aperture in the coat.
(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page
20.)
In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the
hypothesis of Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they
consider the particles in the grains of Pollen, not the grains
themselves, to be the embryos, and that they enter the ovula by
the umbilical cord.
(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page
60.)
(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61
paragraph 118.)
Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before
fecundation, and that it receives its first excitement from a
vapour or aura proceeding from the Pollen, conveyed to it through
the tracheae of the style, and entering the Ovulum by the
umbilical cord.
(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page
121.)
Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the
unimpregnated Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it
in general to be a homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but
in two Cucurbitaceae to consist of a nucleus surrounded by three
coats. Of these coats he rightly supposes the outermost to be
merely the epidermis of the middle membrane or testa. Of the
relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the two plants
in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case mention
an aperture in the Ovulum.
(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to
332.)
Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays
great erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly,
however, be considered an original observer in this part. He
describes the unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous
globule, whose epidermis, then scarcely distinguishable,
separates in a more advanced stage, and becomes the testa of the
seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely the product of
fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly appears
at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the
umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore
mistakes the apex for the base of the nucleus.
(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et
61.)
In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by
which the fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable
ovulum. The substance of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous
plants fecundation takes place through a cord or fasciculus of
vessels entering the outer coat of the ovulum, at a point
distinct from, but at the period of impregnation closely
approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord,
which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle:
that the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus,
or, as he terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general
correspond in direction; that more rarely the inner membrane is,
with relation to the outer, inverted; and that towards the origin
of the inner membrane the radicle of the embryo uniformly
points.
(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d’Hist. Nat. 7 page
199.)
It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced
as M. Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in
every case to the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented
himself with an examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he
has formed an erroneous opinion of the nature and origin, and in
some plants of the situation, of the micropyle itself, and hence
also he has in all cases mistaken the apex for the base of the
nucleus.
A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not
seem to have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M.
Richard, when in 1808 he published his valuable and original
Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum has, according to him, but one
covering, which in the ripe seed he calls episperm. He considers
the centre of the hilum as the base, and the chalaza, where it
exists, as the natural apex of the seed.
M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the
foramen or micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as
receiving by the hilum both nourishing and fecundating vessels,**
and as consisting of a uniform parenchyma, in which the embryo
appears at first a minute point, gradually converting more or
less of the surrounding tissue into its own substance; the coats
and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion which
remains.***
(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1
page 49.)
(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.)
(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)
In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the
micropyle is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in
some plants it is situated at the opposite extremity of the
ovulum, and that in all cases it corresponds with the radicle of
the embryo. This excellent botanist, at the same time, adopts M.
Turpin’s opinion, that the micropyle is the cicatrix of a
vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion with the
parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which
in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family,
namely, Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after
a certain period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion,
which I have not met with in any case.
(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d’Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et
seq.)
In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor
Ludolf Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable
embryo,* in which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as
having two coats: but of these, his inner coat is evidently the
middle membrane of Grew, the chorion of Malpighi, or what I have
termed nucleus.
(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im
Pflanzen-Ey.)
In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with
the dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his
observations on the same subject.* In what regards the structure
of the ovulum, he essentially agrees with that author, and has
equally overlooked the inner membrane.
(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d’Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241
et seq.)
It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have
noticed the foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention
the well-known essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on
the micropyle, it may be presumed that they were not disposed to
adopt the statements of these authors respecting it.
Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in
1824, adopts the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the
ovulum before impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the
situation of the micropyle, and its being the cicatrix of a
vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit the function ascribed to
it, and asserts that it is in many cases wanting.**
(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page
338.)
(**Footnote. Id. page 340.)
The account which I have given of the structure of the
vegetable ovulum, differs essentially from all those now quoted,
and I am not acquainted with any other observations of importance
respecting it.
Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who
have most particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have
not always examined it at a sufficiently early period, and have
confined themselves to its surface: that those who have most
minutely examined its internal structure, have trusted too much
to sections merely, and have neglected its appearance externally:
and that those who have not at all examined it in the early
stage, have given the most correct account of its surface. This
account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds,
generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in
connexion with an hypothesis then very commonly received: but
this hypothesis being soon after abandoned, their statement
respecting the ovulum was rejected along with it.
In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to
the external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already
observed, though in direct opposition to M. Turpin’s account, is
the usual structure of the organ. There are, however, several
families in each of the two primary divisions of phaenogamous
plants, in which the inner membrane, and consequently the
nucleus, agrees in direction with the testa. In such cases the
external umbilicus alone affords a certain indication of the
position of the future embryo.
It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated,
that the radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the
external umbilicus or hilum, though this is said to be generally
the case by the most celebrated carpologists.
Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence
of the structure described, but equally at variance with many of
the published accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the
radicle is never absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the
recent state, is either immediately in contact with the inner
membrane of the seed, or this contact is established by means of
a process generally very short, but sometimes of great length,
and which indeed in all cases may be regarded as an elongation of
its own substance. From this rule I have found one apparent
deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can
hardly be considered as setting it aside.
It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with
exceptions to the structure of the ovulum as I have here
described it, In Compositae its coats seem to be imperforated,
and hardly separable, either from each other or from the nucleus,
in this family, therefore, the direction of the embryo can only
be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in Lemna I have
found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to the
apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other
peculiarities of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical
as the assertion may seem, I consider the exception rather as
confirming than lessening the importance of the character.
(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page
136.)
It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or
vascular cord of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to
that side of the ovulum which is next the placenta. But it is at
least deserving of notice, that the very few apparent exceptions
to this rule evidently tend to confirm it. The most remarkable of
these exceptions occur in those species of Euonymus, which,
contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family they
belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since
noticed, in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in
the other cases in which the raphe is on the outer side, or that
most remote from the placenta, the ovula are in reality
resupinate; an economy apparently essential to their
development.
(*Footnote. Abel’s China page 377.)
The distinct origins and different directions of the
nourishing vessels and channel through which fecundation took
place in the ovulum, may still be seen in many of those ripe
seeds that are winged, and either present their margins to the
placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the wing at
right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are
visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa
produced at both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a
structure which proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they
are called, to be really testa, and not arillus, as it has often
been termed.
The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the
unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be
sufficiently evident from what has been already stated. But this
distinction has been necessarily neglected by two classes of
observers. The first consisting of those, among whom are several
of the most eminent carpologists, who have regarded the coats of
the seed as products of fecundation. The second of those authors
who, professing to give an account of the ovulum itself, have
made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe seed,
the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be
formed before impregnation.
The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence,
is never complete, and whose development takes place chiefly
after fecundation, might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It
is, however, worthy of remark, that in the early stage of the
ovulum, this envelope is in general hardly visible even in those
cases where, as in Hibbertia volubilis, it attains the greatest
size in the ripe seed; nor does it in any case, with which I am
acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa until after
fecundation.
The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed
by the outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the
nucleus is inverted, which is the more usual structure, its
origin may be satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum
being more or less lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or
more obviously, and with greater certainty where the raphe is
visible, this vascular cord uniformly belonging to the outer
membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza, properly so called, though
merely the termination of the raphe, affords a less certain
character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the inner
surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of
insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or
other of which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases
where the testa agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not
acquainted with any character by which it can be absolutely
distinguished from the inner membrane in the ripe seed; but as a
few plants are already known, in which the outer membrane is
originally incomplete, its entire absence, even before
fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such a
structure will be mentioned hereafter.
There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly
noticed,* of the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe
seed; and on the other hand it appears to constitute the greater
part of the substance of the bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae,
where it no doubt performs also the function of albumen, from
which, however, it is readily distinguished by its vascularity.**
But the most remarkable deviation from the usual structure and
economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its earliest
stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in
Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that
the inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely
exposed, the outer membrane being even then open its whole
length; and that the outer membranes of the two collateral ovula,
which are originally distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by
their corresponding surfaces, and together constitute the
anomalous dissepiment of the capsule; the inner membrane of the
ovulum consequently forming the outer coat of the seed.
(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page
149.)
(**Footnote. Ibid.)
The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears
to be of greater importance as connected with fecundation, than
as affording protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period.
For in many cases, before impregnation, its perforated apex
projects beyond the aperture of the testa, and in some plants
puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or even dilated stigma;
while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely obliterated,
or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be mistaken
for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently
observable.
This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of
the Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it
is never, I believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely
visible. In the ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner
membrane only by its apex, which is never perforated, is
generally acute and more deeply coloured, or even
sphacelated.
The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost
coat of the seed. But in a few plants an additional coat,
apparently originating in the inner membrane of Grew, the
vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of Malpighi also exists.
In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges,
till at length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the
nucleus, containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen,
where the latter continues to exist. In such cases, however, its
proper membrane is commonly obliterated, and its place supplied
either by that of the nucleus, by the inner membrane of the
ovulum, or, where both these are evanescent, by the testa
itself.
In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of
granular matter in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these
cases the membrane of the amnios seems to be persistent, forming
even in the ripe seed a proper coat for the embryo, the original
attachment of whose radicle to the apex of this coat may also
continue. This, at least, seems to me the most probable
explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely,
Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba,
notwithstanding their very remarkable germination, as observed
and figured in Nymphaea and Nuphar by Tittmann.*
(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table
3 et 4.)
In support of this explanation, which differs from all those
yet given, I may here advert to an observation published many
years ago, though it seems to have escaped every author who has
since written on the subject, namely, that before the maturity of
the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the sacculus contains along with the
embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid) substance, which I then called
Vitellus, applying at that time this name to every body
interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion receives
some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine
filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre
of the lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the
hollow axis of the Albumen, probably connects this coat of the
Embryo in an early stage with the base of the nucleus.
(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page
306.)
The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of
Piperaceae and Saururus; and other instances occur of the
persistence either of the membrane or of the substance of the
amnios in the ripe seed.
It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given
of the structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes
consequent to real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take
place within the nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so
called, may be formed either by a deposition or secretion of
granular matter in the utriculi of the amnios, or in those of the
nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances having these
distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist in
the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae.
On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I
shall at present make but one other remark, which forms a
necessary introduction to the observations that follow.
ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND
CONIFERAE.
That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where
impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from
the constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and
from the very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this
inversion its apex is brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact
with that part of the parietes of the ovarium, by which the
influence of the pollen may be supposed to be communicated. In
several of those families of plants, however, in which the
nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are polyspermous, as
Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner this
influence can reach its apex externally, except on the
supposition, not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura
filling the cavity of the ovarium; or by the complete separation
of the fecundating tubes from the placentae, which, however, in
such cases I have never been able to detect.
(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by
that of the seed, as characterizing and defining the limits of
Cistineae (namely, Cistus, Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I
communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom it is noticed in his Flora
Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where, however, an
observation is added respecting Gaertner’s description of Cistus
and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.)
It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting
the point of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the
ovarium was either altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed,
that the ovulum itself became directly exposed to the action of
the pollen, or its fovilla; its apex, as well as the orifice of
its immediate covering, being modified and developed to adapt
them to this economy.
But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure
of Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of
which Thoa of Aublet is a species.
To this view the most formidable objection would be removed,
were it admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations,
that the apex of the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation,
has no organic connexion with the parietes of the ovarium. In
support of it, also, as far as regards the direct action of the
pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances of analogous economy in
the animal kingdom may be adduced.
The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae
to the ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described
it, is indeed sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here
advanced not altogether improbable. But the proof of its
correctness must chiefly rest on a resemblance, in every
essential point, being established, between the inner body in the
supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus of the
ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but
also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation.
Now as far as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete
agreement in all these respects. I am not entirely satisfied,
however, with the observations I have hitherto been able to make
on a subject naturally difficult, and to which I have not till
lately attended with my present view.
The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this
view of the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and
apparently secreting surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus
in most cases; its occasional projection beyond the orifice of
the outer coat; its cohesion with that coat by a considerable
portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent division of the
orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of structure
might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced,
being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy.
There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an
objection, and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to
this opinion; namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in
the principal part of Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which
consists of a nucleus and one coat only, compared with the organ
as generally existing when enclosed in an ovarium. The want of
uniformity in this respect may even be stated as another
difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to
be complete.
In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two
envelopes, the outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous
to the calyx, or involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging
to the ovulum; but in Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of
these may, with great probability, be regarded as coats of the
nucleus; while in Podocarpus and Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as
I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps, be viewed as the testa
of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to Dacrydium, the
longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage, and
its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial
covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great
measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in
Banksia and Dryandra.
(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page
573.)
(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)
The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and
which, in Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may
also, perhaps, be supposed to form an objection to the present
opinion, though to me it appears rather an argument in its
favour.
Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of
the structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me,
as far as I am aware of them, much less important than those that
may be brought against the other opinions that have been
advanced, and still divide botanists on this subject.
According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower
of Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no
proper floral envelope.
To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered
by many botanists as presenting an exception.
Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural
character which he has given of this genus, that I find it
difficult to determine what his opinion of its structure really
was. I am inclined, however, to believe it to have been much
nearer the truth than is generally supposed; judging of it from a
comparison of his essential with his artificial generic
character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones,
published by Giseke.*
(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page
589.)
structure of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and
apex of the female flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who
describes them in the following manner: “Singula semina vel
potius germina stigmati tanquam organo feminino gaudent,”* and
his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in which the
stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all doubt
respecting his meaning.
(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453
table 13 figure 23.)
In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,*
gives a similar account of structure, though somewhat less
clearly as well as less decidedly expressed. In the observations
that follow, he suggests, as not improbable, a very different
view, founded on the supposed analogy with Araucaria, whose
structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the inner scale of
the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the outer
scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was
also Linnaeus’ opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr.
Lambert’s splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803.
(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.)
(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.)
In the same year in which Mr. Lambert’s work appeared,
Schkuhr* describes, and very distinctly figures, the female
flower of Pinus, exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose
opinion was probably unknown to him.
(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table
308.)
In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was
published,* in which an account of structure is given, in no
important particular different from that of Trew and Schkuhr,
with whose observations he appears to have been unacquainted.
(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page
308.)
M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect
to Pinus and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in
conjunction with M. Schoubert,** he proposed a very different
view of the structure of Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in
their female flowers there is not only a minute cohering
perianthium present, but an external additional envelope, to
which he has given the name of cupula.
(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d’Hist. Nat. tome 15 page
473.)
(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73,
85 et 121.)
In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the
manner of impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.*
But on reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had
ascertained respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after
altogether abandoned this opinion, without, however, venturing
explicitly to state that now advanced, and which had then
suggested itself.**
(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.)
(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society
Transactions volume 13 page 213.)
It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very
valuable memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears,
from some observations lately published by his son, M. Achille
Richard,* to have formed an opinion respecting their structure
somewhat different from that of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is,
according to him, the perianthium, more or less cohering with the
included pistillum. He was probably led to this view, on
ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of
the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style
being in reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous
envelope, and the included body being evidently analogous to that
in other genera of Coniferae.
(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d’ Hist. Nat. tome 4 page
395 et tome 5 page 216.)
(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d’Hist. Nat. tome 6 page
208.)
To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which
considers the female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked
pistillum, there are two principal objections. The first of these
arises from the perforation of the pistillum, and the exposure of
that point of the ovulum where the embryo is formed to the direct
action of the pollen; the second from the too great simplicity of
structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have shown, accords
better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary
cases.
To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection
does not apply, but the second acquires such additional weight,
as to render those opinions much less probable, it seems to me,
than that which I have endeavoured to support.
In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a
question connected with it, and of some importance, would still
remain, namely, whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are
produced on an ovarium of reduced functions and altered
appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle. In other words, in
employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with some
alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend,
respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous
plants,* whether the ovula in these two families originate in a
modified leaf, or proceed directly from the stem.
(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13
page 211.)
Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing
with the hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in
the first place, to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so
striking a resemblance to a partially altered frond or leaf,
producing marginal ovula in one part, and in another being
divided into segments, in some cases nearly resembling those of
the ordinary frond.
But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia
is sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the
fruit-bearing squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of
Agathis or Dammara, Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the
transition is not difficult. This view is applicable, though less
manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and might even be extended to
Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of these two genera
admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have already
adverted.
If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really
produced on the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though
not necessarily, be expected that their male flowers should
differ from those of all other phaenogamous plants, and in this
difference exhibit some analogy to the structure of the female
flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially in Zamia, the
resemblance between the male and female spadices is so great,
that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male
spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its
surface either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into
masses, each furnished with its proper membrane.
Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally
paradoxical; yet the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who
expresses himself on the subject in the following terms, Pulvis
floridus in Cycade minime pro Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro
nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui unquam pollen antherarum in
plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this opinion, so confidently
held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other botanist, seems
in part to have arisen from his having extended it to dorsiferous
Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me so
very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without
examination. It receives, at least, some support from the
separation, in several cases, especially in the American Zamiae,
of the grains into two distinct, and sometimes nearly marginal,
masses, representing, as it may be supposed, the lobes of an
anthera; and also from their approximation in definite numbers,
generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the
grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other
families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of
pollen, with the thickening and regular bursting of their
membrane, may be said to be circumstances obviously connected
with their production and persistence on the surface of an
anthera, distant from the female flower; and with this economy, a
corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or fovilla
might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I
find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many
antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a
longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most
common in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose,
therefore, merely on the grounds already stated, that these
particles are analogous to the fovilla, and the containing organs
to the grains of pollen in antherae of the usual structure, would
be entirely gratuitous. It is, at the same time, deserving of
remark, that were this view adopted on more satisfactory grounds,
a corresponding development might then be said to exist in the
essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased
development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the
unusual form and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary
importance, and whose nature is disputed, as in the state of the
nucleus of the seed, respecting which there is no difference of
opinion; and where the plurality of embryos, or at least the
existence and regular arrangement of the cells in which they are
formed, is the uniform structure in the family.
(*Footnote. Mem. de l’Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775
page 518.)
The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is
considered as producing on its surface an indefinite number of
pollen masses, each enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive
its only support from a few remote analogies: as from those
antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided into a definite, or more
rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and especially from the
structure of the stamina of Viscum album.
I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers
these grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which
constitutes a male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal
difficulties.
(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d’Hist. Nat. tome 5 page
216.)
The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae,
the existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight
more apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen
is certainly not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to
the lobe of an ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which
each squama of the amentum produces two marginal lobes only, as
Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium, Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it
nearly resembles the more general form of the antherae in other
Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs in those genera
which have an increased number of lobes on each squama, as
Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and
apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in
Cunninghamia, or Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in
number, agree in this respect, as well as in insertion and
direction, with the ovula. The supposition, that in such cases
all the lobes of each squama are cells of one and the same
anthera, receives but little support either from the origin and
arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of
other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though
doubtful, analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in
Aphyteia, and perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae.
(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant
to the late M. Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae,
I added some remarks on its structure, agreeing with those here
made. I at the same time requested that, if he objected to Mr.
Salisbury’s Belis as liable to be confounded with Bellis, the
genus might be named Cunninghamia, to commemorate the merits of
Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in his time, by whom
this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan Cunningham,
the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his
first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and
Captain King in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New
Holland.)
That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the
analogy between the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and
Coniferae, I consider the least satisfactory, both in regard to
the immediate question of the existence of an anomalous ovarium
in these families, and to the hypothesis repeatedly referred to,
of the origin of the sexual organs of all phaenogamous
plants.
In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret
that it should have so far exceeded the limits proper for its
introduction into the present work. In giving an account,
however, of the genus of plants to which it is annexed, I had to
describe a structure, of whose nature and importance it was
necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances have
occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which
determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I
had originally intended.
APPENDIX C.
AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS,
COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING, IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF
AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, ON THE SHORES OF THE
GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS.
BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S.,
V.P.G.S.
[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER,
1825.]
The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of
Australia, commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the
eastern shore, about the latitude of twenty-two degrees,
proceeding northward and westward: and as the shores of the Gulf
of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by Captain Flinders, were
passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who accompanied the
former, has been so good as to allow the specimens collected by
himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm which
would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and
north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been
previously visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin,
I was desirous of obtaining such information as could be derived
from the specimens collected during that expedition, and now
remaining at Paris; although I was aware that the premature death
of the principal mineralogist, and other unfavourable
circumstances, had probably diminished their value:* But the
collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list
of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr.
Brochant de Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen’s Land;
and that of the Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has
obliged me with an account of, does not afford the information I
had hoped for. I have availed myself of the notices relating to
Physical Geography and Geology, which are dispersed through the
published accounts of Captain Flinders’,** and Baudin’s
Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to,
form, I believe, the only sources of information at present
existing in Europe, respecting the geological structure and
productions of the north and western coasts of Australia.
(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during
the progress of the voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of
his manuscripts were preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after
publishing, in 1807, the first volume of the account of the
expedition, died in 1810, before the appearance of the second
volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page
163.)
(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in
the years 1801, 1802, and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of
the Investigator. Two volumes quarto with an atlas folio; London
1814.)
(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres
Australes etc. Tome 1 redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de
l’Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2 redige par M. Peron et M. L.
Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work, under the title of
Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt. Freycinet in
1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the proceedings of
the expedition; and affords some particulars connected with the
physical geography of the places described, which are not to be
found in the other volumes.)
In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned
by detail, I shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain
King’s and Mr. Brown’s collections, a general sketch of the coast
from whence they come, deduced, principally, from the large
charts,* and from the narratives of Captains Flinders and King,
with a summary of the geological information derived from the
specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a more
detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the
great distance from each other of many of the places where they
were found, and of the general interest attached to the
productions of a country so very remote, of which the greater
part is not likely to be often visited by geologists. The
situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to be found
in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be
sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places.
(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the
Admiralty for general sale.)
GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.
The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude
of about 28 degrees, has a direction from south-east to
north-west; and ranges of mountains are visible from the sea,
with little interruption, as far north as Cape Weymouth, between
the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From within Cape Palmerston,
west of the Northumberland Islands, near the point where Captain
King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of very irregular
outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is continued
for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break; and
after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is
again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in
the front of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount
Dryander, on the promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester,
being more than four thousand five hundred feet high. Mount
Eliot, with a peaked summit, a little to the south of Cape
Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues distance; and Mount
Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of Rockingham
Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of Cape
Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low
land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a
lofty group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible
from the sea at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards
the north decline gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach
the shore, which they join at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12
degrees; and from that point northward, to Cape York, the land in
general is comparatively low, nor do any detached points of
considerable elevation appear there. But about midway between
Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west of
Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is
conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills
on the east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the
mountains of the north and west coasts, to which names expressing
their form have been applied.*
(*Footnote. Jane’s Table-Land, south-east of Princess
Charlotte’s Bay (about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount
Adolphus, in one of the islands (a
flat summits. King manuscripts.)
The line of the coast above described retires at a point which
corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the
north of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the
high land about that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than
forty miles beyond the coastline between Princess Charlotte’s Bay
and the north-eastern point of Australia.
The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred
feet high, and the islands off that point are nearly of the same
elevation.
The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not
having been explored, it is still probable that rivers, or
considerable mountain streams, may exist there.
Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found
throughout a space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape
Cleveland; Cape Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at
Clack’s Island, on the north-west of the rocky mass which forms
Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap formation have been obtained
in three detached points among the islands off the shore; in the
Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes; Sunday Island,
north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in Good’s
Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34
minutes.
The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain
Flinders, was not visited by Captain King; but the following
account has been deduced from the voyage and charts of the
former, combined with the specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who
has also favoured me with an extract from the notes taken by
himself on that part of the coast.
The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is
so low, that for a space of nearly six hundred miles–from
Endeavour Strait to a range of hills on the mainland, west of
Wellesley Islands, at the bottom of the gulf–no part of the
coast is higher than a ship’s masthead.* Some of the land in
Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest island
is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in
height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence
to Sir Edward Pellew’s group. The rock observed on the shore at
Coen River, the only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where
Captain Flinders landed, was calcareous sandstone of recent
concretional formation.
(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.)
(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page
158.)
In Sweer’s Island, one of Wellesley’s Isles, a hill of about
fifty or sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous
stone, having the appearance of concretions rising irregularly
about a foot above the general surface, without any distinct
ramifications. The specimens from this place have evidently the
structure of stalactites, which seem to have been formed in sand;
and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the sand has been
agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the west
coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great
abundance.
The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat
higher, and from Limmen’s Bight to the latitude of Groote
Eylandt, is lined by a range of low hills. On the north of the
latter place, the coast becomes irregular and broken; the base of
the country apparently consisting of primitive rocks, and the
upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of the
specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at
Goulburn and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely
distributed on the north-west. The shore at the bottom of
Melville Bay is stated by Captain Flinders to consist of low
cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of about eight miles in extent
from east to west; and similar cliffs of pipe-clay are described
as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate, volume 1) and at
Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of which
places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of
Carpentaria.
Morgan’s Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the
north-west of Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and
other rocks of the trap-formation occur in several places on this
coast.
The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of
ancient sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone.
Round Hill, near Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of
Morgan’s Island, is composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount
Caledon, on the west side of Caledon Bay, seems likewise to
consist of that rock, as does also Melville Island. This part of
the coast has afforded the ferruginous oxide of manganese: and
brown hematite is found hereabouts in considerable quantity, on
the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming the cement of a
breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in which the
ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production;
resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by
Professor Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some
time in sand.*
(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July
1825 page 193.)
The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from
Limmen’s Bight to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east;
and three conspicuous ranges of islands on the north-western
entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the appearance of which is
so remarkable as to have attracted the attention of Captain
Flinders,* have the same general direction: a fact which is
probably not unconnected with the general structure of the
country. The prevailing rock in all these islands appears to be
sandstone.
(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.)
The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of
Castlereagh Bay, where Captain King’s survey was resumed, has
also a direction from south-west to north-east, parallel to that
of the ranges of islands just mentioned. The low land near the
north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from thence to Goulburn
Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet discovered
in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream, named
Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty
miles from the coast, through a country not more than three feet
in general elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low
and muddy, and thickly wooded: And this description is applicable
also to the Alligator Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen’s
Gulf, and to the surrounding country. The outline of the
Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland between the Liverpool
and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this range being
thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear to
be very numerous on the north-western coast.
The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish
sandstone, not to be distinguished from that which occurs beneath
the coal formation in England. On the west of these islands the
coast is more broken, and the outline is irregular: but the
elevation is inconsiderable; the general height in Cobourg
Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet above the
sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four
hundred feet.
On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for
the flatness of their tops; and the general outline of many of
the islands, as seen on the horizon, is very striking and
peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount Roe, on the south of
Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of Melville
Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin,
south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills
adjacent to Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the
progress of the survey sufficiently indicate their form, as
House-roofed, Bastion, Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount
Casuarina, about forty miles north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill
near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port Warrender; and several of
the islands off that port, York Sound, and Prince Regent’s River;
Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still further south,
the whole of Moresby’s flat-topped Range, are all distinguished
by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except in a
few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar
and Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they
have very much the aspect of the summits in the coal
formation.*
(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me,
that in some of these cases, the shape of the hill is really that
of a roof, or hayrick; the transverse section being angular, and
the horizontal top an edge.)
Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking
southward from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about
latitude 13 degrees 50 minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50
minutes) has some resemblance to one of the views in Peron’s
Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of the Iles Forbin
(plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits remarkably
the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King’s
drawings (Sketch 2).
SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD
FROM THE NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND.
Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands,
Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of Cassini
Island (Peron’s Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the outline of the
Iles Forbin (Peron’s Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).
SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE
NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left to right: Peak upon Cape
Voltaire and Condillac Island, bearing South, two miles distant.
Several drawings of Captain King.
The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west
coasts, is also an appearance which is frequently noticed on the
sketches taken by Captain King and his officers. This is
conspicuous in the neighbourhood of Cape Croker; at Darch Island
and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point Coombe in Mountnorris
Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the north-west of
Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe’s River (Prince Frederic’s
Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are
described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same
hue; and the northern limit of Shark’s Bay, Cape Cuvier of the
French, latitude 24 degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous
bastion, may be distinguished at a considerable distance by its
full red colour.*
(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.)
It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and
Melville Islands, near the north-western extremity of New
Holland, that a new colony has recently been established: (see
Captain King’s Narrative volume 2.) A permanent station under the
superintendence of a British officer, in a country so very little
known, and in a situation so remote from any other English
settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting objects of
natural history, and of illustrating various points of great
interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be
hoped will not be neglected. And as a very instructive
collection, for the general purposes of geology, can readily be
obtained in such situations, by attending to a few precautions, I
have thought that some brief directions on this subject would not
be out of place in the present publication; and have subjoined
them to the list of specimens at the close of this paper.*
(*Footnote. See hereafter.)
In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the
character of the country is entirely changed; and irregular
ranges of detached rocky hills composed of sandstone, rising
abruptly from extensive plains of low level land, supersede the
low and woody coast, that occupies almost uninterruptedly the
space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than
six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more than a
swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a
southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity
precisely resemble the older sandstones of the confines of
England and Wales.* The View (volume 1 plate) represents in the
distance Mount Cockburn, at the head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat
rocky top of which was supposed to consist of sandstone, but has
also the aspect of the trap-formation. The strata in Lacrosse
Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the north-west,
at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their direction
consequently being from north-east to south-west.
(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the
acceptation of Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on
the South Western Coal District of England. Geological
Transactions Second Series volume 1. Captain King’s specimens
from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished from the slaty
strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about two
miles below Clifton.)
From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an
uniform coast of moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape
Leveque, although the outline may be in a general view considered
as ranging from north-east to south-west,* the coast is
remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea irregularly studded
with very numerous islands. The specimens from this tract consist
almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge Gulf,
Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the
trap-formation appears to be associated.
(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the
general range of the shore, from the islands filling up the
inlets.)
York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the
coast, is bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred
feet in height; and some conical rocky peaks, which not
improbably consist of quartz-rock, were noticed on the eastern
side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch, by Captain King,
shows that the banks of Hunter’s River, one of the branches of
York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are
composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this
place is also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one
of the rarest phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable
shores.*
(*Footnote. Narrative 1.)
The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been
discovered in this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent’s
River, about thirty miles to the south-west of York Sound, the
course of which is almost rectilinear for about fifty miles in a
south-eastern direction; a fact which will probably be found to
be connected with the geological structure of the country. The
general character of the banks, which are lofty and abrupt, is
precisely the same with that of the rivers falling into York
Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be higher
in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to
four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained
siliceous sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate
above) shows that the beds are nearly horizontal, and very
regularly disposed; the cascade there represented being about one
hundred and sixty feet in height, and the beds from six to twelve
feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills, which Captain King has
named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the north-east of
Prince-Regent’s River, not far from its entrance, are remarkable
for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize
the trap formation. (Sketch 3.)
(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.)
The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape
Leveque, has not yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears
from Captain King’s Chart (Number 5) to be intersected by several
inlets of considerable size, to trace which to their termination
is still a point of great interest in the physical geography of
New Holland. The space thus left to be explored, from the
Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more than one
hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but
islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One
large inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque,
appears to afford considerable promise of a river; and the rise
of the tide within the Buccaneer’s Archipelago, where there is
another unexplored opening, is no less than thirty-seven
feet.
The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low,
waving, and rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are
remarkable in so many parts of the coast to the north, is also
observable here, the colour of the rocks at Point Coulomb being
of a deep red: but on the south of the high ground near that
Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long tract,
which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain
King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by
extensive shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a
distance; so that a space of more than three hundred miles, from
Point Gantheaume nearly to Cape Lambert, still remains to be
accurately surveyed.
Depuch Island, east of Dampier’s Archipelago, about latitude
20 degrees 30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as
consisting in a great measure of columnar rocks, which they
supposed to be VOLCANIC; and they found reason to believe that
the adjoining continent was of the same materials.* It is not
improbable, however, that this term was applied to columns
belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has
been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the
drawings of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King’s vessel,
give reason to suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain
King’s specimens from Malus Island, in Dampier’s Archipelago
(sixty miles farther west) consist of greenstone and
amygdaloid.
(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.)
The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier’s
Archipelago, latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of
Cape Preston, in latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about
fifteen miles in width, between rocky hills, which has not been
explored. From thence to the bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than
one hundred and fifty miles, the coast is low and sandy, and does
not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of Exmouth Gulf
itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating in
the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as
Cape Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five
hundred feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast
range.
Several portions of the shore between Shark’s Bay and Cape
Naturaliste have been described in the account of Commodore
Baudin’s Expedition; but some parts still remain to be surveyed.
From the specimens collected by Captain King and the French
descriptions, it appears that the islands on the west of Shark’s
Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very recent
formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other
parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King
George’s Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the
West Indian Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King’s
specimens of this production are from Dirk Hartog’s and Rottnest
Islands; and M. Peron states that the upper parts of Bernier and
Dorre Islands are composed of a rock of the same nature. This
part of the coast is covered in various places with extensive
dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which both these
and the calcareous formation repose, has not been
ascertained.
The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape
to Dirk Hartog’s Island, is from the east of north to the west of
south. On the south of the latter place the land turns towards
the east. High, rocky and reddish cliffs have been seen
indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees; and a coast of the same
aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about latitude 28
degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The hills
called Moresby’s flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax,
latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a
space of more than fifty miles from north to south.
Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees,
contains in abundance the calcareous concretions already
mentioned; which seem there to consist in a great measure of the
remains of recent shells, in considerable variety. The islands of
this part of the shore have been described by MM. Peron and
Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down to Cape Leeuwin, the
south-western extremity of New Holland, having been sufficiently
examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain
King.
(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168
etc.)
Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast,
latitude 31 degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the
French expedition, to the distance of about twenty leagues from
its mouth; and found still to contain salt water. The rock in its
neighbourhood consisted altogether of sandy and calcareous
incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it is stated,
shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this
river and Cape Peron, a “great bay” was left unexplored.*
(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page
5. 170.)
The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main,
between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the
meridian for more than fifty miles, seems to have a base of
granite, which, at Cape Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.*
The same rock also occurs, among Captain King’s specimens, from
Bald-head in King George’s Sound; but nearly on the summit of
that hill, which is about five hundred feet high, were Found the
ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as corals
by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King’s
specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent
limestone so abundant throughout these shores.
(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.)
(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D’Entrecasteaux 2 175.
Freycinet 105. Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions
hereafter; and Captain King’s Narrative volume 1.)
The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of
Australia, which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described
in the account of his voyage, and do not come within the object
of the present paper.
GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.
1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of
Captain King and Mr. Brown, are the following:
Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard
Island; Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near
C. Arnhem; Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George’s Sound.
Various Slaty Rocks:
Mica-State: Mallison’s I.
Talc-State: Endeavour River.
Slaty Clay: Inglis’ I., Clack I., Percy I.
Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo’s Island; Halfway Bay, Prince
Regent’s River.
Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west
Coast.
Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay.
Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd’s Bay;
Islands of the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York
Sound; Prince Regent’s River.
Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay.
ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION.
Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles.
Sienite: Rodd’s Bay.
Porphyry: C. Cleveland.
Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good’s I.
Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island.
Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus
I.
Clinkstone: Morgan’s I., Pobassoo’s I.
Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat
Island; Malus I.
Wacke ?: Bat Island.
Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer’s Island, N. coast. Dirk
Hartog’s and Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George’s
Sound, South coast.
The only information that has been published respecting the
geology of New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages
of Captain Flinders and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by
Professor Buckland of some specimens collected during Mr. Oxley’s
Expedition to the River Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline
of a paper by the Reverend Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of
the Geology of New South Wales and Van Diemen’s Land, which has
been read before the Geological Society.** On these authorities,
the following may be added to the preceding list of rocks:
Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains
the mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near
the east coast; Van Diemen’s Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts;
Scott).
The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen’s
Land. (Buckland-Scott.)
Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by
the occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen’s Land. (Scott.)
Oolite: Van Diemen’s Land. (Scott.)
(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page
480.)
(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed
that Mr. Von Buch also has published a paper on the rocks of New
Holland; but have not been so fortunate as to meet with it.Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to
the Academy of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of
M. Duperrey, performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been
published; from whence I have subjoined an extract, in order to
complete the catalogue of the rocks of Australia, according to
the present state of our information.Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du
Port Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup
nos connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les
echantillons, au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les
granites, les syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites
graphiques) qui cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues.
2. Les gres ferrugineux, et renfermant d’abondantes paillettes de
fer oligiste, qui couvrent non seulement une vaste etendue de
pays pres des cotes, mais encore le premier plan des
Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu’on exploite au
Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et dont
la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres
ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains
tertiaires.Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen,
dans les environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren,
indiquent, 1. Des terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des
terrains intermediaires coquilliers, formes du
grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3. Des terrains
tres-recens, composes d’argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse, avec
geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On
distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres,
parmi les galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren:
Bulletin des Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.)
2. The specimens of Captain King’s and Mr. Brown’s
collections, without any exception, agree with those of the same
denominations from other parts of the world; and the resemblance
is, in some instances, very remarkable: The sandstones of the
west and north-west of New Holland are so like those of the west
of England, and of Wales, that the specimens from the two
countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the
arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is
precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper,
chalcedony, and green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the
entrance of Prince Regent’s River, resemble those of the Tyrol,
both in their characters and association. The Epidote of Port
Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an additional proof of the
general distribution of that mineral; which, though perhaps it
may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more frequent
occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been
supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the
latter in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in
Mr. Greenough’s cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales,
Ireland, France, and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it
extensively in the sienitic tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a
pudding-stone, bearing some resemblance to the green breccia of
Egypt, were found to be composed of compact epidote, including
very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock, which itself contains a
considerable proportion of this substance. And Mr. Greenough has
recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J. Burton,
junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from
Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New
Holland is added to these localities, it will appear that few
minerals are more widely diffused.
(*Footnote. See Cleaveland’s Mineralogy 1816 page 297
to 300.)
(**Footnote. Plee’s Account of Jersey quarto
Southampton 1817 page 231 to 276.)
3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of
the hills in sight during the progress of the survey of the
Coasts of Australia, accord in a very striking manner with the
geological character of the shore. Those from the east coast,
where the rocks are primitive, representing strongly marked and
irregular outlines of lofty mountains, and frequently, in the
nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined. The outlines on
the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western shores, are
most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and
diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none
of which are very lofty.
4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the
collections, respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a
class of phenomena which is of the highest interest, in an island
of such vast extent, so very remote in situation, and of which
the existing animals are so different from those of other parts
of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no limestone is among
the specimens from the northern and western shores, except that
of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are
hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that
limestone cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places
visited. No eruptive mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic
eruption, have yet been observed in any part of Australia.
5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed
description will be found in the subjoined list of specimens, is
one of the most remarkable productions of New Holland: It was
found, during the expedition of Commodore Baudin, to exist
throughout a space of no less than twenty-five degrees of
latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern,
west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown’s specimens it
appears to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
The full account which M. Peron has given of this formation,
sufficiently shows its resemblance to the very recent limestone,
full of marine shells, which abounds on the shores of the
Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and in several other parts
of the world: And it is a point of the greatest interest in
geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really be
drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern
formation, which occur immediately upon the shore; and other
calcareous accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not
identical, both in the fossils they contain, and in the
characters of the cementing substances, that are found in several
countries, at considerable heights above the sea.
(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216
etc.)
Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation,
which occurs upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a
firmly-compacted cream-coloured stone, composed of granular
fragments of shells, agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The
stone of Guadaloupe, containing the human skeletons, is likewise
of the same nature; and its very recent production cannot be
doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes, and of
pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain
Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ
only in colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and
with the calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog’s Island, in the
gradual melting down of the cement into the included portions,
which is one of the most remarkable features of that rock.**** A
calcareous compound, apparently of the same kind, has been
recently mentioned, as of daily production in Anastasia Island,
on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be found to
be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And
Captain Beaufort’s account of the process by which the gravelly
beach is cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other
places on the coast of Karamania, on the north-east of the
Mediterranean,****** accords with M. Peron’s description of the
progress from the loose and moveable sands of the dunes to solid
masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also, there are
hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably
elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of
Travels in Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean
recently published by the Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen
these concretions in Calabria, and on the coasts of the Adriatic;
but still more remarkably in the narrow strip of recent land
(called the Placca) which connects Leucadia, one of the Ionian
Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a work of art,
that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone
composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones
in the Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing
more than gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the
accretion of which is supposed to be rapidly advancing at the
present day.
(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page
479.)
(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to
57.)
(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series
volume 1 page 172.)
(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814
page 107 etc.)
(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars
1825.)
(******Footnote. Beaufort’s Description of the South
Coast of Asia Minor etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180
to 184 etc. In the neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of
calcareous matter from the water is so copious that an old
watercourse had actually crept upwards to a height of nearly
three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was such that some
specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony crust was
already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but
imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less
extraordinary M. Peron’s statement that the excrements of
kangaroos had been found concreted by calcareous matter. Peron
volume 2 page 116.)
(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.)
The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia,
that I have seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to
the Bristol Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the
geology of Sicily;* which prove that the arenaceous breccia of
New Holland is very like that which occupies a great part of the
coast, almost entirely around that island. Some of Dr. Daubeny’s
specimens from Monte Calogero, above Sciacca, consist of a
breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery limestone,
united by a cement, composed of minute grains of quartzose-sand
disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely that of
the breccia of Dirk Hartog’s Island: and a compound of this kind,
replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing
species, fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of
Sicily; and is described as occurring, in several places, at very
considerable heights above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it
constitutes hills some hundred feet in height; near Girgenti, all
the most elevated spots are crowned with a loose stratum of the
same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni, said to be 2880
feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But although the
concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of the
shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more
ancient formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would
probably be referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris
basin.
(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825
pages 116, 117, 118, and 254 to 255.)
The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like
the less compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by
Captain Vetch, and already referred to:* and the rock in both
these cases, nearly approaches to some of the coarser oolites of
England.
(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the
Geological Society.)
The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens
of recent breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin
du Roi, to those of St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the
detail given by Mr. Allan in his sketch of the geology of that
neighbourhood;** in which the perfect preservation of the shells,
and their near approach to those of the adjoining sea at the
present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is inferred that
the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to that
of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds,
likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined
the place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs
at St. Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the
sea, as containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a
peine fossiles) and he describes the mass in which they occur, as
belonging to a formation still more recent than the upper marine
beds of the environs of Paris.***
(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See
hereafter.)
(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of
Edinburgh volume 8 1818 page 427 etc. See also the previous
publications of M. Risso Journal des Mines tome 34
etc.)
(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles;
2nd Edit. volume 2 page 427.)
The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably
more recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and
generally than the Paris and London strata, accords with the date
which has hitherto been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk,
Essex, and Norfolk:* but later observations render doubtful the
opinion generally received respecting the age of these remarkable
deposits, and a full and satisfactory account of them is still a
desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our imperfect
acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very modern
limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the
continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be
questioned (though probably the greater part of the masses which
consist of them may belong to an era preceding the actual
condition of the earth’s surface) it would seem that the whole
subject of these newer calcareous formations requires
elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not
throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally
received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be
learned respecting the operations and products of the most recent
geological epochs, than is commonly supposed.
(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page
11, Geological Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological
Transactions 2nd series Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the
important fact that the remains of unknown animals are buried
together with the shells in the crag of Suffolk; but does not
mention the nature of these remains. Since these pages have been
at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex and
Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me
that the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the
diluvial gravel, including the remains of the elephant,
rhinoceros, stag, etc.)
(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the
formation of recent limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the
bottom of lakes in Scotland, have been read before the Geological
Society by Mr. Lyell, and will appear in the volume of the
Transactions now in the press. See Annals of Philosophy 1825 page
310.)
Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is
continually going on at the present time, and has probably taken
place at all times, the stone thus formed, independent of the
organized bodies which it envelopes, will afford no criterion of
its date, nor give any very certain clue to the revolutions which
have subsequently acted upon it. But as MARINE shells are found
in the cemented masses, at heights above the sea, to which no
ordinary natural operations could have conveyed them, the
elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of
the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some
other agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their
great quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same
places, make it more probable that they lay originally in the
situations where we now find them, than that they have been
transported from any considerable distances, or elevated by any
very turbulent operation. Captain de Freycinet, indeed, mentions
that patellae, worn by attrition, and other recent shells, have
been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the top of a wall
of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought up by
the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in
the breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights
too great, and their preservation is too perfect, to admit of
this mode of conveyance; and to account for their existence in
such situations, recourse must be had to more powerful means of
transport.
(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such
situations may often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on
their inhabitants. At Madeira, where recent shells are found near
the coast at a considerable height above the sea, the Gulls have
been seen carrying up the living patellae, just taken from the
rocks.)
The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent
appearance, at considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts
of New Holland, Timor, and several other islands of the south,
was justly considered by M. Peron as demonstrating the former
abode of the sea above the land; and very naturally suggested an
inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to which this change
of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar appearances at Pulo
Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of Sumatra, Dr.
Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island must
at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating,
that by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the
transition must have been effected with little violence or
disturbance to the marine productions at the surface,** he
concludes, that the phenomena are in favour of a HEAVING UP OF
THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable nature of this
force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, by the
phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in
November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen
hundred miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the
clearest evidence, that after formidable shocks of earthquake,
repeated with little interruption during the whole night of the
19th of November (and the shocks were continued afterwards, at
intervals, for several months) IT APPEARED, on the morning of the
20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A
DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED ABOVE ITS
FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about
three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the
fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known
to exist there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation
was about four feet. “When I went,” the narrator adds, “to
examine the coast, although it was high-water, I found the
ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, with beds of oysters,
mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on which they
grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive
effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had
been raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner;
several ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH
SHELLS, extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the
height of fifty feet above the sea.” Such an accumulation of
geological evidence, from different quarters and distinct classes
of phenomena, concurs to demonstrate the existence of most
powerful expansive forces within the earth, and to testify their
agency in producing the actual condition of its surface, that the
phenomena just now described are nothing more than what was to be
expected from previous induction. These facts, however, not only
place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show that,
even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the
predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable
to conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same
character have been produced by the same cause, though we may not
at present be enabled to trace its connexion with the existing
appearances so distinctly; and though the facts, when they
occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may have taken place at
periods beyond the reach of historical record, or even beyond the
possibility of human testimony.
(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to
183.)
(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series
volume 1 page 403, 404.)
(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are
those of Mrs. Graham, in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has
been published in the Geological Transactions Second Series
volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is supported and
illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal
Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of
this latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot
of the Andes to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the
greatest rise being at the distance of about two miles from the
shore. The rise upon the coast was from two to four feet: at the
distance of a mile, inland, it must have been from five to six,
or seven feet, pages 40, 45.)
M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern
breccia of New Holland to the large proportion of calcareous
matter, principally in the form of comminuted shells, which is
diffused through the siliceous sand of the shores in that
country;* and as the temperature, especially of the summer, is
very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been
principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by
the percolating water, may possibly render its formation more
abundant there, than in more temperate climates. But the true
theory of these concretions, under any modification of
temperature, is attended with considerable difficulty: and it is
certain that the process is far from being confined to the warmer
latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of a modern formation
of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** where a large
surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes
agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the
rocks of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen,
resemble those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological
Society, from the shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this
concretion, not to the agency of the sea, nor to an excess of
carbonic acid, but to the solution of carbonate of lime itself in
water, and subsequent percolation through calcareous sand; the
great hardness of the stone arising from the very sparing
solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual
formation of the deposit–Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous
concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present
a great variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less
complicated, and often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and
which appear to be analogous to those of King George’s Sound and
Sweer’s Island: And he mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in
sand, in different parts of England (the sand above the fossil
bones of Norfolk is given as an example) long cylinders or tubes,
composed of sand agglutinated by carbonate of lime, or calcareous
stalactites entangling sand, which, like the concretions of
Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have been
ranked improperly, with organic remains.
(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page
116.)
(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society
of Cornwall volume 1 page 1 etc.)
(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance,
etc. Quarterly Journal Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16
page 79 to 83.)
The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New
Holland, is very nearly the same with that of the cement by which
they are united, the difference consisting only in the greater
proportion of sand which the fragments contain: and it would
seem, that after the consolidation of the former, and while the
deposition of similar calcareous matter was still in progress,
the portions first consolidated must have been shattered by
considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, the
unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and
even the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the
paste which surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by
some process analogous to what takes place in the preparation of
the compound of which the ordinary earthenware is manufactured;
where, though the ingredients are divided by mechanical attrition
only, a sort of chemical action produces, under certain
circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* And this
explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular
concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the
paste in which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from
conglomerates of mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a
difficulty in geology. What the degree may be, of subdivision
required to dispose the particles to act thus upon each other, or
of fluidity to admit of their action, remains still to be
determined.
(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are
combined for the use of the potter, by being first separately
diffused in water to the consistence of thick cream, and when
mixed in due proportion are reduced to a proper consistence by
evaporation. During this process, if the evaporation be not rapid
and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to act on each
other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite
into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of
the manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which,
I believe, is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend
Mr. Arthur Aikin. And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar
change takes place in recently precipitated carbonate of copper;
which, if left long moist, concretes into hard gritty grains, of
a green colour, much more difficultly soluble in ammonia than the
original precipitate.)
6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than
three-fourths of that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded
as unknown,* any theoretic inferences, from the slight geological
information hitherto obtained respecting this great island, are
very likely to be deceitful; but among the few facts already
ascertained respecting the northern portion of it, there are some
which appear to afford a glimpse of general structure.
Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of
islands on the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel’s, the
English Company’s, and Bromby’s Islands, remarks, that he had
“frequently observed a great similarity both in the ground plans,
and the elevations of hills, and of islands, in the vicinity of
each other, but did not recollect another instance of such a
likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands.”* The
appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of
so much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must
probably have been very remarkable; and, combined with
information derivable from the charts, and from the specimens for
which we are indebted to Captain King and Mr. Brown, they would
seem to point out the arrangement of the strata on the northern
coasts of New Holland.
(*Footnote. The following are the proportions
assigned by Captain de Freycinet to the principal divisions of
the globe. Voyage aux Terres Australes page 107.COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE.
COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE.
COLUMN 3: PROPORTION.Asia : 2,200,000 : 17.
America : 2,100,000 : 17.
Africa : 1,560,000 : 12.
Europe : 501,875 : 4.
Australia : 384,375 : 3.The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to
which the late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has
never yet been examined in any other quarter) are not above 500
miles, in a direct line from the sea; the average width of the
island from east to west being more than 2000 miles, and from
north to south more than 1000 miles.)
(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates
14 and 15. King’s Charts, Plate 4.)
Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders’ notice
(see the Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that
which includes the Red Cliffs, Mallison’s Island, a part of the
coast of Arnhem’s Land, from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce,
and Bromby’s Isles; and its length, from the mainland (3) on the
south-west of Mallison’s Island, to Bromby’s Isles (7) is more
than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from south-west to
north-east. The English Company’s Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a
distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the
general trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233)
is nearly North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main
coast, and with Bromby’s Islands. Wessel’s Islands (1, 1, 1, 1)
the third or most northern chain, at fourteen miles from the
second range, stretch out to more than eighty miles from the
mainland, likewise in the same direction.
It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the
English Company’s Islands which were examined, slope down nearly
to the water on their west sides; but on the east, and more
especially the south-east, they present steep cliffs; and the
same conformation, he adds, seemed to prevail in the other
islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or two
instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it
obtains in so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of
the ranges, it is not improbably of still more extensive
occurrence, and would intimate a general elevation of the strata
towards the south-east.
(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.)
Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the
lines of the coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of
Carpentaria, between Limmen’s Bight and Cape Arnhem–from the
bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point Dale–less distinctly from
Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 129
degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg
Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20
minutes, longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry,
have nearly the same direction; the first line being about one
hundred and eighty geographical miles, the second more than three
hundred, and the last more than four hundred miles, in length.*
And these lines, though broken by numerous irregularities,
especially on the north-west coast, are yet sufficiently distinct
to indicate a probable connexion with the geological structure of
the country; since the coincidence of similar ranges of coast
with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very frequent
occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable
that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the
different places in this quarter of New Holland which have been
hitherto examined; sandstone, like that of the older formations
of Europe occurring generally on the north and north-west coasts,
and appearing to be extensively diffused on the north-west of the
Gulf of Carpentaria, where it reposes upon primitive
rocks.***
(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast
of Timor, the nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of
about 300 miles, is also nearly straight, and parallel to the
Coast of New Holland in this quarter: part of the mountainous
range, of which that island consists, being probably more than
9000 feet high; and its length, from the north-eastern extremity
to the South-West of the adjoining island of Rottee, about 300
miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain of islands
immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a right
line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the
south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO
WEST. This chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including
those of Sumbawa, the eruption of which, in 1815, was of
extraordinary violence. See Royal Inst. Journal volume 1 1816
page 248 etc.At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the
north-west coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West:
their direction consequently is from South-West to North-East;
and the rise towards the high land of Timor. The intervening sea
is very shallow.)
(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which
has not, I believe, been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean;
and is conspicuous in the new chart of that sea, by Captain W.H.
Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica and Sardinia, for a space of
more than two hundred geographical miles being nearly
rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, Captain
Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or,
at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another
instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges
in the interior of England furnish several examples of the same
kind, on a smaller scale.)
(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to
those above-mentioned–from the South-East of the Gulf of
Carpentaria to Limmen’s Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker,
and from Cape Domett to Cape Londonderry–have also a certain
degree of linearity; but much less remarkable, than those which
run from South-West to North-East.)
The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf
of Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of
Australia, and may possibly have some connexion with the
structure just pointed out. The western shore of this horn, from
the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour Straits, being very low;
while the land on the east coast rises in proceeding towards the
south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude 12 degrees 30
minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain King’s
specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in
so many places along this line as to make it probable that
primitive rocks may form the general basis of the country in that
quarter; since a lofty chain of mountains is continued on the
south of Cape Tribulation, not far from the shore, throughout a
space of more than five hundred miles. It would carry this
hypothesis too far to infer that these primitive ranges are
connected with the mountains on the west of the English
settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has
described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port
Stevens, about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37
degrees, and as succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue
Mountains, by sandstone, and this again by primitive strata:* But
it may be noticed that Wilson’s Promontory, the most southern
point of New South Wales, and the principal islands in Bass
Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur
extensively in Van Diemen’s Land.
(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June
1824.)
The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some
other quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that
of the principal openings, has a general tendency to a course
from the west of south to the east of north. This, for example,
is the general range of the south-east coast, from Cape Howe,
about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or
even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; and of the western
coast, from the south of the islands which enclose Shark’s Bay,
latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22
degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to
Cape Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs
nearly on the meridian. The two great fissures of the south
coast, Spencer’s, and St. Vincent’s Gulfs, as well as the great
northern chasm of the Gulf of Carpentaria, have a corresponding
direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart 4) represents a high ridge
of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of Spencer’s Gulf, as
continued, nearly from north to south, through a space of more
than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees
7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this
ridge, about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the
distance of twenty leagues.
The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a
general parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of
the existence of primary ranges of mountains on the east of
Australia in general, from the coast about Cape Weymouth* to the
shore between Spencer’s Gulf and Cape Howe. But it must not be
forgotten, that the distance between these shores is more than a
thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as from the west
coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance between
the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches
should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will
be supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by
Mr. Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to
explain it) to be established by geological observation in so
many other parts of the world, that the outcrop of the inclined
beds, throughout the stratified portion of the globe, is
everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of mountains, towards
which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. But in the
present state of our information respecting Australia, all such
general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that
the desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the
best excuse that can be offered for having proposed them.
(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great
Australian Bight, the coast of which in general is of no great
elevation, with the deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending,
as it were, to a division of this great island into two, accords
with this hypothesis of mountain ranges: but the distance between
these recesses, over the land at the nearest points, is not less
than a thousand English miles. The granite, on the south coast,
at Investigator’s Islands, and westward, at Middle Island, Cape
Le Grand, King George’s Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very wide
of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its
relations.)
(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes.
Philosophical Transactions 1760 volume 51 page 566 to 585,
586.)
DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.
The specimens mentioned in the following list have been
compared with some of those of England and other countries,
principally in the cabinets of the Geological Society, and of Mr.
Greenough; and with a collection from part of the confines of the
primitive tracts of England and North Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur
Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain King’s collection
has been presented to the Geological Society; and duplicates of
Mr. Brown’s specimens are deposited in the British Museum.
RODD’S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King,
about sixty miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of
moderately-fine grain, resembling that which in England occurs in
the coal formation, and beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic
compound, consisting of a large proportion of reddish felspar,
with specks of a green substance, probably mica; resembling a
rock from Shap in Cumberland.
(*Footnote. In Captain King’s collection are also
specimens found on the beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of
the Hastings River, of common serpentine, and of botryoidal
magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The magnesite agrees nearly
with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See Cleaveland’s
Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.)
CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd’s Bay and the Percy Islands.
Porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar,
enclosing grains of quartz and common felspar, and some fragments
of what appears to be compact epidote; very nearly resembling
specimens from the trap rocks* of the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in
Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy clay, coloured by oxide
of iron, and used as pigments by the natives.
(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation,
which I am aware are extremely vague, I intend merely to signify
a class of rocks, including several members, which differ from
each other considerably in mineralogical character, but agree in
some of their principal geological relations; and the origin of
which very numerous phenomena concur in referring to some
modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone also is of
very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide
range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of
green, the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief
ingredients supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the
components, if they could be accurately determined, probably more
numerous and varied, than systematic lists imply.)
PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape
Capricorn. Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few
small crystals of reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is
marked “general character of the rocks at Percy Island,” and very
much resembles the compact felspar of the Pentland Hills near
Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse porphyritic conglomerate, of a
reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like compound, with somewhat the
aspect of serpentine, but yielding with difficulty to the knife.
This specimen has, at first sight, the appearance of a
conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues, purplish,
brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise
distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a
rock which occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at
Pont-y-Pool, in Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica,
like that which frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of
coal.
REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty
miles north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens,
apparently consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound
of quartz, mica, and felspar, having the appearance of
re-composed granite.
CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of
Repulse Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; “from
the summit of the hill.” Reddish granite, of very fine grain;
with the aspect of sandstone. Dark grey porphyritic hornstone,
approaching to compact felspar, with imbedded crystals of
felspar.
CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north
from Cape Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey
granite, with brown mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of
quartz, felspar, and tourmaline.
ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from
Cape Grafton. Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked
hill under Mount Cook and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of
several varieties: and indistinct specimens of a rock approaching
to talc-slate.
LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour
River. Grey granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz,
and a large proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed.
CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape
Melville, about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island.
Smoke-grey micaceous slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the
old red sandstone, where it graduates into grey wacke. This
specimen was taken from a horizontal bed about ten feet in
thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which included
large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of
sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.)
SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and
seventy miles west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar,
of a flesh-red colour; very nearly resembling that of the Percy
Islands, above-mentioned.
GOOD’S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about
latitude 10 degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York.
The specimens, in Mr. Brown’s collection from this place, consist
of coarse-slaty porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of
greenish-grey compact felspar, containing crystals of reddish
felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to that of
Clack Island above-mentioned.
SWEER’S ISLAND, south of Wellesley’s group, at the bottom of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose
sand, and fine gravel, cemented by reddish carbonate of lime;
apparently of the same nature with the stem-like concretions of
King George’s Sound: (See hereafter.) In this specimen the
tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open.
The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to
consist of red ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes
unmixed, but not unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous
stone; and in some places rounded portions of the ferruginous
matter were enveloped in a calcareous cement.
BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer’s Island. A granular compound,
like sandstone recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown
hematite, enclosing quartzose sand.
PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington’s Island, is
composed of calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist
of a sandy calcareous cement, including water-worn portions of
reddish ferruginous matter, with fragments of shells.
NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew’s group. Coarse
siliceous sand, concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some
places, is in the state of brown hematite. Calcareous
incrustations, including fragments of madrepores, and of shells,
cemented by splintery carbonate of lime.
CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen’s Bight, was found by Mr. Brown
to be composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this
place, however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces
of a slaty structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to
chalcedony; with a coarse variety of cacholong, containing small
nests of quartz crystals.
GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two
different varieties occur among the specimens. A quartzose
reddish sandstone, of moderately fine grain; and a coarse reddish
compound, consisting almost exclusively of worn pebbles of
quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in diameter,
with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is
nearly identical with that of Simms’ Island, near Goulburn’s
Island on the north coast.
CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY’S ISLAND, are of
the same materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found
also on the western shore of BLUE-MUD BAY.
On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a
little north of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the
common sandy calcareous stone, projecting here and there in
ragged fragments.
MORGAN’S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote
Eylandt, is composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes
indistinctly columnar. But among the specimens are also a coarse
conglomerate of a dull purplish colour, including pebbles of
granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty rock like potstone: the
hue and aspect of the compound being precisely those of the
oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform and
fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by
ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation.
ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north
from Blue-Mud Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at
the upper part, of sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its
vicinity are, dark grey granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss,
with a few specks of garnet; and a calcareous, probably
concretional stone, enclosing the remains of shells, with
cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar.
MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists
of grey granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on
the sides and top of the hill large loose blocks of that rock
were observed, resting upon other blocks.
A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite,
in which the felspar has a bluish hue.
Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.*
A botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching
to hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of
lime.
(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and
bays on this part of the coast is represented in the enlarged
Map.)
MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish
felspar, dark brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute
disseminated specks of molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale
red garnet.
RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first
chain of islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map,
figure 3.) Friable conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour,
consisting of minute grains of quartz, with a large proportion of
ochreous matter.
MALLISON’S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island
are composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone
reposes in regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles
gneiss, or mica slate, near the contact with granite: the
sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose, of a reddish hue, with mica
disseminated on the surfaces of the joints; and one face of the
specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly coated with
botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine
grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in
this island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of
sandstone, cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown
hematite, was found there, in loose blocks at the bottom of
perpendicular cliffs. The specimen of this breccia is attached to
a plate of granular quartz, and may possibly have been part of a
vein.
The shore of INGLIS’ ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH
COMPANY’S RANGE (2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of
a slaty argillaceous rock, which breaks into rhomboidal
fragments; but the specimen is indistinct. Ferruginous masses,
probably consisting of brown hematite, come also from this
island.
ASTELL’S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis’ Isle. Very fine-grained
greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of
Mallison’s Island, and very closely resembling some of the
specimens from Prince Regent’s and Hunter’s Rivers.
Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET’S,
COTTON’S, and POBASSOO’s Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to
consist, in a great measure, of sandstone, of the same character
with the specimens above-mentioned.
POBASSOO’S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell’s Isle.
Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of
sandstone is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently
composed of the debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting
of greenish-grey hornblende, with a very small proportion of
felspar (Hornblende rock ?). Fragment, apparently from a columnar
mass, of a stone intermediate between clink-stone and compact
felspar.
Such of the English Company’s Islands as were examined by
Captain Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper
part, of a grit, or sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part
being argillaceous, and stratified, and separating into pieces of
a reddish colour, resembling flat tiles. The strata-dip to the
west, at an angle of about 15 degrees.
South-west bay of GOULBURN’S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and
fifty miles west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1).
Coarse-grained reddish quartzose conglomerate and sandstone;
resembling the older sandstones of England and Wales, and
especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal formation. Fine
greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in thickness
were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned.
Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of
quartz, from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff
from which these specimens were taken, is represented in the view
of the bay on the south of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a
distant head in the view consists of the same materials.
SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn’s south Island
(Narrative 1) is composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly
identical with some of the specimens above-mentioned.
The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE
ISLAND, consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn’s
Island; the upper part being red, the lower white and composed of
pipe-clay. The western extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE
HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY, is also formed of cliffs of a very
dark red colour.
LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one
hundred miles from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone;
from a stratum which dips to the south-east, at an angle of about
ten or fifteen degrees. Micaceous and argillaceous fissile
sandstone, of purplish and greenish hues, in patches, or
occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the rock of Brecon,
in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of the
vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales.
Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the
coal formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large
masses, under an argillaceous cliff, on the north side of
Lacrosse Island.
The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from
ADOLPHUS ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more
or less decomposed.
VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west
of Cambridge Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock.
Indistinct specimens of greenstone, with adhering quartz;
apparently a primitive rock.
PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty
miles south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote
and quartz, in small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently
from veins, or nests, but unaccompanied by any portion of the
adjacent rock. The structure in one of these specimens approaches
to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish stone, with disseminated
crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and apparently
consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also
among the specimens from Port Warrender.
All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the
foot of Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit
of the head is flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity
are described by Captain King as consisting of siliceous
sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from amygdaloid of the trap
formation, was also found at Port Warrender.
The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish
colour, but is mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into,
spots of a rich purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally
the epidote of Dauphiny and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been
so good as to examine them, informs me that the crystals exhibit
some modifications not described either by Hauy, or by Mr.
Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and which are probably
peculiar to this locality.
WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the
south-west entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as
consisting of quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in
Montagu Sound. And the same rock appears to occur throughout the
islands on this part of the coast. (Narrative 1.)
MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of
ADMIRALTY GULF (Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that
of the Lickey Hill, in Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose
sandstone, of a purplish hue, resembling a rock on the banks of
the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and reddish sandstone;
apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very nearly
resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned.
HUNTER’S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east
side. Somewhat coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the
coal formation, and some varieties of millstone grit.
Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose sandstone, having the
appearance of stratification, and resembling the rocks of
Cambridge Gulf.
ROE’S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound
(Narrative 1) runs between precipitous banks of sandstone, in
nearly horizontal strata, which rise to the height of three
hundred feet.
CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent’s River
(Narrative volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline
epidote, and whitish quartz, apparently from a vein.
Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests or concretions of green
epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid. Conglomerate,
containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock, in a
base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of
epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place.
Flat lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey
quartzose sandstone, with traces of a slaty structure, resembling
that of York Sound, and Cambridge Gulf, was found in the
north-east end of this bay; and fine-grained greenstone, on the
summit of the adjacent hills.
Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of
Port Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about
sixty miles.
BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening
Bay. Quartz from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock,
probably chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated
hematitic iron-ore and copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with
chalcedony, from nodules in amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron
ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony and copper pyrites. A decomposed
stone, probably consisting of wacke. The specimens of trap-rocks
from this place are from a cavern.
GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent’s River.
Reddish, coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal
strata, intersected by veins of crystallized quartz.*
(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.)
HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent’s River on the west of the
entrance, near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing
with that of Pobassoo’s Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of
Carpentaria (see above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in
amygdaloid. Greenish quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red,
somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with quartz and chalcedony, and
containing specular iron ore.
The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from
Sotto i Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have
seen in the collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of
reddish jasper with chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like
heliotrope, the whole belonging to the trap-formation.
POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about
one hundred and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent’s River.
Very compact and fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a
glistening lustre, and flat conchoidal fracture. This stone,
though so compact in the recent fracture, has distinct traces of
stratification on the decomposed surface, which is of a dull
reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular quartz (Eisen-kiesel
?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous texture. A
specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of very
fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble,
consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark
purplish-brown colour, and considerable density, was found here;
near a fireplace of the natives, by whom it is used for making
their hatchets; with a fragment of a calcareous incrustation,
like that of the west coast hereafter mentioned.
The next specimens in Captain King’s collection–a space of
more than three hundred miles on this coast not having been
examined by him–are from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier’s Archipelago
(see Narrative volume 1) they consist of fine-grained greenstone,
and what appears to be a basaltic rock, of amygdaloidal
structure.
DIRK HARTOG’S ISLAND, west of Shark’s Bay. A compound of
rather fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by
carbonate of lime, of various shades of reddish and yellowish
grey. This stone has in some places the structure of a breccia;
the angles of the imbedded fragments, which are from half an inch
to two inches in diameter, being very distinct–but in other
parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of roundish nodules,
composed of concentric shells–or bags as it were, of calcareous
matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of
the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between
these nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.*
(*Footnote. The following description given by the
French naturalists of the rocks at Bernier’s Islands, was
probably taken from a large suite of specimens; and M. Peron
states (1 page 204) that it is strictly applicable to all the
adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands that were
examined by the French voyagers:Le sable du rivage (de l’ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele
d’une grande proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues.
La substance de l’ile meme se compose, dans ses couches
inferieures, d’un gres calcaire coquillier, tantot blanchatre,
tantot rougeatre, depose par couches horizontales, dont
l’epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces) et qui
toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient
offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement
taillees.Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont
presque toutes univalves; elles apartiennent plus
particulierement au genre Natice de M. de Lamarck, et ont les
plus grands rapports avec l’espece de Natice qui se trouve
vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute petrifiees
depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu’il est tres difficile de
les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion
avec eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres
(150 pieds) au dessus du niveau actuel de la mer.Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur
disposition generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes
dans leur substance; il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches
plus remarquable par sa structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires,
agreges dans une terre sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est
tellement adherente, qu’on ne sauroit detruire cette espece de
gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces galets affectent la
forme globlueuse, et se composent d’un grand nombre de zones
concentriques, qui se developpent autour d’un noyau central d’un
gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine
quelques millimitres d’epaisseur, et affectent des nuances
agreables, qui varient depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu’au
jaune-clair. La disposition generale de cette breche lui donne
donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit globuleux de
l’ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques, elle
a quelque chose de l’aspect des Agathes-Onyx…Les bancs de gres
divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la
masse entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110.
See also Freycinet page 187.)
some of the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe,
which contains the human skeletons, the hardness and fracture
being nearly the same in both. The chief difference of these
rocks seems to arise from the nature of the cemented substances;
which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves calcareous, are
incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by
insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk
Hartog’s Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous
matter that surrounds it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments
in the latter consist of limestone, their union with the cement
is complete.
(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig’s Paper. Philosophical
Transactions volume 104 1814 page 107 etc.)
(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the
soundings in this part of the coast bring up a very fine
quartzose-sand like that cemented in the breccia.)
ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of
Dirk Hartog’s Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous
fragments of shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of
these shells has at first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and
is harder than ordinary carbonate of lime.
The characters of the shells in Captain King’s specimens from
this place are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du
Roi, which, there is reason to suppose, have come from this part
of the coast, contain shells of several species, belonging among
others to the genera, corbula, chama, cardium, porcellanea,
turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted for this
account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of
the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a
considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect
of the rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St.
Hospice, near Nice.
KING GEORGE’S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from
Cape Leeuwin. Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the
sea-beach. Yellowish grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties
of a calcareous rock, of the same nature with that of Dirk
Hartog’s Island; consisting of particles of translucent quartzose
sand, united by a cement of yellowish or cream-coloured carbonate
of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and splintery fracture, and
is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the knife. In this
compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as in the
stone of Dirk Hartog’s Islands; but the calcareous matter is very
unequally diffused.
A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears,
is that of irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a
rugged sandy surface, and from half an inch to an inch in
diameter; the cross fracture of which shows that they are
composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of lime, either uniformly
mixed throughout, or forming a crust around calcareous matter of
a spongy texture; in which latter case they have some resemblance
to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to have been
of this description, is stated to have come from a height of
about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on
the South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not
really exhibit any traces of organic structure; and so nearly
resemble the irregular stalactitical concretions produced by the
passage of calcareous or ferruginous solutions through sand* that
they are probably of the same origin; indeed the central cavity
of the stalactite still remains open in some of the specimens of
this kind from Sweer’s Island in the Gulf of Carpentaria. The
specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological Society by
Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,** appear
upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no
reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other
foreign substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various
foreign bodies, even of artificial production, have been so
found. Professor Buckland has mentioned a specimen of concreted
limestone from St. Helena, which contains the recent shell of a
bird’s egg;*** and M. Peron states that, in the concretional
limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the trunks of
trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to leave
no doubt as to their nature.****
(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous
matter, irregularly ramifying through sand, like the roots of
trees, are described by Captain Lyon as occurring in Africa.
Lyon’s Travels Appendix page 65.)
(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139,
140; and Bull. des Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page
322.)
(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page
479.)
(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places,
by persons unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction
which is intended, from the want of attention to a few necessary
precautions, that the following directions may perhaps be useful
to some of those, into whose hands these pages are likely to
fall. It will be sufficient to premise, that two of the principal
objects of geological inquiry, are, to determine, first, the
nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is composed; and,
secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are
disposed with respect to each other.
1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from
loose pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or
which have recently fallen from their natural situation.
2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by
exposure to the elements, which sometimes alter the characters to
a considerable distance from the surface. Petrifactions, however,
are often best distinguishable in masses somewhat decomposed; and
are thus even rendered visible, in many cases, where no trace of
any organized body can be discerned in the recent fracture.
3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size
is about three inches square, and about three-quarters of an
inch, or less, in thickness.
4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind
of rock, are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that
the general character is collected, by geologists who examine
rocks in their native places, from the average of an extensive
surface: a collection ought therefore to furnish specimens of the
most characteristic varieties; and THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS
ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE. Where several
specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers should
be added to the note of their locality.
5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining
specimens, and examining the relations of rocks, is in the
sections afforded by cliffs on the seashore; especially after
recent falls of large masses. It commonly happens that the beds
thus exposed are more or less inclined; and in this case, if any
of them be inaccessible at a particular point, the decline of the
strata will frequently enable the collector to supply himself
with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus,
in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of
considerable height, the observer being situated at a, the beds
b, c, d, though inaccessible at that place, may be examined with
ease and security, where they successively come down to the
shore, at b prime, c prime, and d prime.
6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill
and practice are required: the rocks being generally concealed by
the soil, accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the
vegetation of the surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed
in the sides of ravines, in the beds of rivers and
mountain-streams; and these, especially where they cross the
direction of the strata, and be made, by careful examination, to
afford instructive sections.
7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the
remains of organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes,
the bones and teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions
of vegetable stems, roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest
importance; affording generally the most marked characters of the
strata in which they occur. These should, therefore, be
particularly sought after, and their relative abundance or rarity
in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies should, if
possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix in
which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay,
or any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain
a large portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards,
than to attempt their separation at the time of collecting.
8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks,
in the form of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be
carefully distinguished from the solid strata upon which they
repose. And the more ancient of these loose materials, found on
the sides or summits of hills, etc., should be distinguished from
the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought down by land-floods, or
rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not unfrequently found
in gravel of the former description; and the collection of these
remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an object of the
greatest interest to geology.
9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible,
to accompany every specimen, a short notice of its geological
circumstances; as:
Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in
strata?
If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the
horizon, and direction with respect to the compass, of the beds?
[If these cannot be measured, an estimate should always be
recorded, while the objects are in view.] Are they uniform in dip
and direction? curved, or contorted? continuous, or interrupted
by fissures or veins?
Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform
composition? or does it consist of different kinds of stone?
If the strata be different, what is the order in which they
are placed above each other successively?
10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every
specimen, stating its native place, its relative situation, etc.,
etc. And these labels should be connected with the specimens
immediately, on the spot where they are found. This injunction
may appear to be superfluous; but so much valuable information
has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, that every
observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it is,
perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to.
11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently
conveys more information respecting the disposition and relations
of rocks, than the longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the
situation of the specimens collected, be marked upon such
sketches, much time may be saved at the moment of collecting. But
in all such cases, the memorandum should be looked over soon
afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their situation,
etc., be attached to the specimens themselves.
12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may
be defended from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for
which purpose, if strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or
straw, or leaves, may be used with advantage. Where paper is used
for wrapping the specimens, they are best secured by fastening
the envelope with sealing-wax.
Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be
prevented from collecting, by finding that the place which he may
chance to visit in a remote situation, has not a striking
appearance, or the rocks within his view a very interesting
character; since it frequently, and even commonly, happens, that
facts and specimens, in themselves of very little importance,
become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely any
observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away.
The Instruments required by the geological traveller will
vary, according to the acquirements and specific objects of the
individual. The most essential are:
The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of
the form here represented:
The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from
the face to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the
face flat, and square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the
direction of the handle. The orifice for the insertion of the
handle oval, a very little wider on the outer side than within;
its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7 across; the
centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The handle
should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches
long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a
shoulder; and increasing a little in size towards the end remote
from the head, to prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the
head by means of a thin, barbed iron wedge.
For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed
(Sketch 6): The form of the head, recommended for this purpose by
Dr. MacCulloch,* is rectangular. The dimensions of the face may
be 1 inch by 3/4; the height 2 1/4.
(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers,
Quarterly Journal Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1
etc.)
It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different
sizes, in reserve.
A small miner’s pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting
portions of slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays,
etc.
A small stone-cutter’s chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the
form here represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert
collector, and better enable him to direct his blow.
For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper.
Sealing-wax. Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to
cement the labels to the specimens.
For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with
straps for the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size,
are very convenient for subdivision and arrangement. For the
protection of crystals, or delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or
cotton are necessary; and small wooden boxes (like those used for
holding wafers) are sometimes required. For distant carriage,
strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets.
The following are either essential, or useful in various
degrees, for obtaining and recording observations.
Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit
sketches.
A Pocket Compass.
A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more.
A Telescope.
A Camera Lucida.
A Box of Colours.
The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true
economy to the traveller being that which saves time, it is best
to mark, or even colour the map, in the field. Notes inserted on
imperfect maps, or deduced afterwards from memoranda, are less
authentic; and the process is frequently neglected.
PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are
desirable; and the best instruments are ultimately the cheapest.
But, unfortunately, barometers of every construction are very
easily damaged or deranged. The accurate determination of
heights, however, though very interesting to physical geography,
is comparatively of little importance to the geologist.
If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what
purpose a Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the
measurement of distances, of heights, and of the inclination of
strata, etc.
CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C.
GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.
GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.
1. List of Rocks.
2. Rocks identical with those of Europe.
3. Aspect of the Shores.
4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens
of Limestone: no Volcanoes.
5. Recent calcareous breccia.
6. Range of the Coastlines.
DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.
APPENDIX D.
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE
NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS.
COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.
COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN
FLINDERS.
COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN
COOK AND MR. FORSTER.
COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST.
COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON.
COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT.
COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY.
COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER.
COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN’S LAND.
Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja :
Milla : Me’-e : Nam’-mur-uck.
Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) :
Tarmul, Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : – : Mor-ro : Na’-ag :
Me-oun.
Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : – : – : – :
-.
Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah :
Er-ra : Te’-lah : Kouk.
Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : – : –
: Mal’-way : Mim.
Cheeks : Tac-cal : – : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : – : – : – : -.
Chin : Na-ing : – : – : Wal-lo : – : – : – : -.
Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) :
Duong : Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo’-ko :
Goun-reek.
Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra,
or Gewarroo : Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo’l-lack : Pipe, or
Bipipe.
Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : – : Ganga, Cadlear, or
Cadleang : – : Oro- : – : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree.
Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : – : Nabung : – : Be-ning
: Nam-bang : -.
Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul :
Barrong, or Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War’rah : -.
Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang :
– : Bar-gar : Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig.
Hand : Gong : – : – : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : – : – : -.
Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural)
: Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook.
Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : – : O-nur : – : – : – :
Nam-me-rick.
Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa’l-la-kah : Bo-ong,
or Bayley : – : – : – : -.
Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : – : Dar-ra : – : – :
Woo’lo-loo : -.
Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul :
Manoe : Janna : Dhee-nany : – : -.
Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) :
– : – : – : Teel-nah : Pe-une.
Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat :
Goona, Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : – : Too-nigh,
or Win-gin : -.
Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : – : Ba-doo :
Ajung- : – : Bah-do : -.
Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : – : Keba : Wy-juck : – : – : -.
Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango :
Tungo, Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou,
Barro-melon, Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : – : – : Womboy,
Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke (the Pademalion of Port Jackson) :
Raguar.
Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) :
Me-a-ra : Wo-me-rah : – : – : – : -.
Nipples (of a man) : – : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep :
Mou-tral : – : – : – : Nerrinook.
Dog : – : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal :
Med-di-gen, War-ri-gal : – : – : -.
Nails : – : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : – : – :
– : -.
Beard : – : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : – : Anany :
– : Ru-ing.
Mouth : – : – : Tatah : Karga : – : Chuang : Wel’-leck :
-.
Fire : – : – : – : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur :
Cor-yal : Lope.
Membrum virile : – : – : Yaw-de-wit : – : – : – : Cool-kah :
Lune.
Head : – : Wageegee (Forster) : – : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or
Nattang : Cah-brah : – : -.
The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives
in various parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen’s
Land, has been inserted to show the great dissimilarity that
exists in the languages of the several tribes: and it may be
remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one only, the Eye, is
expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In this list, it
is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms used
to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra,
or gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the
language of some of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for
instance, as arouroo or hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands;
lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands; hooroo of New Zealand; and,
perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New Caledonia, which is
situated between these places and Port Jackson, the same thing is
expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render the
anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark,
that, within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of
three tribes, Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek,
signify the hair, by the words wollack, mundar, and
bulla-ye-ga.
(*Footnote. Forster Observations page
283.)
The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be
proved, as far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance
of the words, and not merely by a few examples of coincidence,
which can only be considered as accidental: and as our knowledge
of the Australian languages, except in the vicinity of Port
Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty words, no
comparison, derived from such limited information, can be
employed with any certainty to determine the question. The
connexion must be sought for, probably, where the continent, at
its north-eastern extremity, most nearly approaches other lands;
but even then the chain will remain imperfect until New Guinea
and its neighbouring islands are explored, and correct and
extensive vocabularies of their languages obtained. Forster,* who
has paid considerable attention to this subject, and whose
opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of
personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New
Hollanders are not an original race, but have derived their
origin from New Guinea. It is therefore to be hoped, that this
subject will not be forgotten by our trans-Atlantic and
Australian colonists; more particularly by those of the new
settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their
vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing
light upon the question.
(*Footnote. Ibid.)
SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH
RESPECT TO PORT JACKSON.
King George the Third’s Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660
miles from Port Jackson.
Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of
Carpentaria, 1500 miles from Port Jackson.
Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the
North-east Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson.
Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port
Jackson.
Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port
Jackson.
Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port
Jackson.
Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen’s Land.
Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen’s
Land.
END OF VOLUME 2.
