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MOTORCYCLE, SOLO
(Harley‐Davidson Model WLA)

CONTENTS

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Section I

INTRODUCTION

1. SCOPE.

a. This technical manual2 is published for the information
and guidance of the using arm personnel charged with the operation,
maintenance, and minor repair of this materiel.

b. In addition to a description of the Harley‐Davidson
motorcycle, this manual contains technical information required for
the identification, use, and care of the materiel. The manual is
divided into two parts. Part One, section I through section VI, gives
vehicle operating instructions. Part Two, section VII through section
XXV, gives vehicle maintenance instructions to using arm personnel
charged with the responsibility of doing maintenance work within their
jurisdiction.

c. In all cases where the nature of the repair, modifications,
or adjustment is beyond the scope or facilities of the unit, the
responsible ordnance service should be informed so that trained
personnel with suitable tools and equipment may be provided, or proper
instructions issued.

2. SUPERSESSION OF QUARTERMASTER MANUALS.

a. This technical manual, together with TM 9–1879, supersedes
and replaces the following Quartermaster Corps publications:

(1) TM 10–1175—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo,
Harley‐Davidson (Model 42–WLA), 11 September 1941.

(2) TM 10–1177—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, solo,
Harley‐Davidson (Models 1940–41–42), 11 September 1941.

(3) TM 10–1331—Maintenance manual, motorcycle, chain drive
Harley‐Davidson (Model 42 WLA, solo).

(4) TM 10–1359—Instruction folder (45–A) motorcycles, solo,
Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941.

(5) TM 10–1361—Instruction folder (45–B) motorcycle, solo,
Harley‐Davidson (Model 1941 WLA 45), 25 November 1941.

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RA PD 315708
Figure 1—Top View of Motorcycle

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RA PD 315709
Figure 2—Left Side View of Motorcycle

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RA PD 315710
Figure 3—Right Side View of Motorcycle

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3. DESCRIPTION (figs. 1, 2, and 3).

a. This 2‐cylinder solo motorcycle is powered by a V‐type,
air‐cooled gasoline engine, operating on conventional 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle
principles. Air‐cooled engines rely upon movement of air over cylinder
and head radiating fins, and upon circulation of oil for dissipation
of excessive heat. Motorcycle engines, therefore, under no conditions
should be operated for more than 1 minute when motorcycle is not in
motion.

4. DATA.

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RA PD 310201
Figure 4—Controls

5. CONTROLS (fig. 4).

a. Controls are peculiar to the motorcycle. The rider must
become thoroughly familiar with the location and use of all control
devices before attempting to operate vehicle.

b. Gasoline Valve (figs. 5 and 6). Gasoline valve is located in
left tank, forward. Valve is closed by turning to the right, finger
tight. Turning to left opens valve. Valve is in normal operating
position10 when turned to left, with valve head down. Lifting valve head
releases emergency supply of fuel (3 quarts).

RA PD 310202
Figure 5—Fuel Supply Valve

RA PD 310293
Figure 6—Fuel Supply Valve Positions

c. Throttle. The throttle is controlled by right handle
bar grip. Turning grip inward opens throttle, turning it outward closes
throttle.

d. Spark. Spark is controlled by left handle bar grip.
Turning grip inward advances spark, turning it outward retards spark.

e. Clutch (fig. 7). Clutch is operated by left foot
(rocker‐type) pedal, connecting with steel cable, which actuates
clutch release lever. Pedal is located on left side of motorcycle
above footboard. Forward downward (toe) position of pedal engages
clutch. Rear downward (heel) position of pedal disengages clutch. Foot
pedal provided with friction device to retain it in either engaged or
disengaged position.

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RA PD 310204
Figure 7—Clutch Pedal Positions

RA PD 310205
Figure 8—Gear Shifter Lever Positions

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f. Service Brake (Rear Wheel). Foot pedal is located on
right side of motorcycle at forward end of footboard.

g. Auxiliary Brake (Front Wheel). Auxiliary brake is
operated by hand lever located on left handle bar. It is used in
conjunction with service brake, as an emergency brake, or for holding
vehicle while starting engine on grade. CAUTION: Brake is to be
applied lightly and cautiously on wet and slippery roads.

h. Gear Shifter (fig. 8). Shifter lever is located on
left tank, forward position, and operates within a guide. Shifter lever
guide is notched for positive location of gears and each position is
identified, front to rear: “1”—low gear; “N”—neutral; “2”—second
gear; “3”—direct high gear.

RA PD 310206
Figure 9—Carburetor Choke Lever Positions

i. Steering Damper. Steering damper is an adjustable
friction device to damper turning action of forks, steady front wheel,
and prevent wobble in rough terrain or at high speeds, and is located
on top of steering head in center of handle bars. Move handle to right
to apply desired friction.

j. Foot Starter Crank (fig. 1). The foot starter crank
is located on right side of motorcycle. Gear shifter lever must be in
neutral position, and clutch foot pedal in forward engaged position,
before using foot starter crank. Starter crank normally is in upward
position. Straddle motorcycle, place right foot on starter crank, and
shift weight of body for forceful downward crank operation to start
engine.

k. Ignition and Light Switch. Earlier models are
provided with switch lock, later models are nonlocking. Switch is off
in straight‐forward position. First position to right is for engine
ignition only.13 Second position to right is for ignition and blackout
lights. To use vehicle service lights, depress button to turn switch to
third right position.

l. Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Instead of an ammeter
and oil pressure gage, signal lights indicate generator charging, and
engine oil pressure.

(1) Green light is located on left side of instrument panel. When
engine is running, and light is out, it indicates generator is charging.

(2) Red light is located on right side of instrument panel. When engine
is running, and light is out, it indicates engine oil is circulating.

m. Carburetor Choke (fig. 9). Choke lever is in full
prime position when all the way up, and in normal running position when
all the way down.

6. ENGINE PRESTARTING INSTRUCTIONS.

a. Before the engine is started, perform the Before‐operation
Service outlined in paragraph 15. Special care must be taken during
starting and warming‐up period to avoid unnecessary engine wear.

b. The rider must acquire correct motorcycle engine starting
habits, and learn to do the job the quickest, easiest, and most
dependable way. The following pointers will be helpful to the beginner
as well as to a seasoned rider:

(1) Mount (straddle) motorcycle to obtain firm grip on handle bars.

(2) Leave side stand (jiffy stand) outward to support vehicle while
operating foot starter crank with right foot.

(3) Engine starting will be benefited by use of front wheel,
hand‐operated brake, to prevent vehicle from rolling or shifting during
starting kicks. This is especially helpful if vehicle is parked on an
incline or on soft, uneven surface.

c. The procedure outlined below is preparatory to starting
either cold, warm, or hot engine:

(1) Place gear shifter lever in “N” (neutral) position (fig. 8).

(2) See that gasoline shut‐off valve is open (fig. 5).

(3) Engage clutch (fig. 7).

(4) Spark control (left) grip must be turned inward to fully advanced
position, or nearly so.

(5) Foot starter crank may travel ½ way downward before starting
engine. See that a full vigorous starter stroke is used. A vigorous
kick, using a full swing (not a jab) of right leg and hip, is correct
engine starting practice.

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7. STARTING THE ENGINE.

a. Procedure for starting cold, warm, or hot motorcycle engines
differs. Therefore, following instructions are used with paragraph 6 c
to cover correct procedure in all three cases.

b. Starting Cold Engine. When vehicle has not been
operated for some time, and engine is normally cold, follow progressive
procedure for easiest starting.

(1) Set carburetor choke lever in full upward (closed) position.

(2) Open throttle wide by turning right grip inward as far as it will
go.

(3) Prime cylinders by operating foot starter crank one or two strokes.

(4) Set carburetor choke lever in ¼ to ½ closed position for mild
weather starting: ¾ closed (or leave fully choked) for extremely cold
weather starting. CAUTION: It is only in extremely cold weather
that engine may start best with choke fully closed, and even then it
will have to be moved from this position immediately after engine is
started.

(5) Set throttle (right) grip to slightly open position.

(6) Turn ignition switch on, first right position.

(7) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.

(8) When engine starts, set throttle for moderate idling speed for
warming up, or until ready to set vehicle in motion. Do not race engine
unnecessarily.

(9) After engine warms up, and misfires due to an overrich mixture,
gradually move choke lever downward. After engine has thoroughly warmed
up, move choke lever to fully open (downward) position.

c. Starting Warm Engine. Following instructions apply
to engine when halfway between hot and cold. With engine in this
condition, carburetor choking must be handled cautiously.

(1) Lift choke lever to first upward position from normal (¼ closed).

(2) Set throttle (right) grip to fully closed (outward) position.

(3) Operate foot starter crank one or two strokes.

(4) Set throttle grip to between ¼ and ¹⁄₃ open position.

(5) Turn ignition switch on.

(6) Start engine with vigorous strokes of foot starter crank.

(7) Soon after engine starts, choke lever must be moved to fully open
(downward) position.

(8) Turn throttle grip to control idling speed of engine.

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d. Starting Hot Engine. If engine has been shut off for
only a brief period and is near normal operating temperature, it is not
necessary to use carburetor choke lever. With some engines, depending
upon carburetor condition and adjustment, hot starting is easier and
more dependable if foot starter crank is operated one stroke before
turning ignition switch on.

(1) Close throttle grip by turning fully outward.

(2) Turn ignition switch on.

(3) Operate foot starter crank to start engine.

(4) When hot engine does not start readily after two or three strokes
of the foot starter crank, it is usually due to an overrich (flooded)
condition, and the proper procedure then is to open throttle wide so
that more air can enter: close throttle quickly after engine starts.
CAUTION: After engine has warmed up to a normal operating temperature,
do not allow engine to stand idling for longer than a 1 minute
interval.

e. Starting Engine with Dead Battery. See paragraph 12.

f. Behavior of Instrument Panel Signal Lights. Function
of generator (green) signal light depends upon action of cut‐out
relay; engine oil pressure (red) signal light depends upon action
of oil feed pump. Rider must, therefore, thoroughly understand
operating characteristics of both signal lights to judge condition of
generator‐battery circuit and pressure in engine oil circulating system.

(1) When ignition light switch is turned to first (right) position,
preparatory to starting engine, both green and red signal lights should
go on. CAUTION: When switch is turned on, immediately after engine has
been primed by cranking, red (oil pressure) signal light may not light
at once, but will light after a few seconds, due to oil pressure built
up by cranking, and is most likely to be noticed in cold weather.

(2) With engine started and running at medium idling speed, both signal
lights should go off. CAUTION: Should oil pressure (red) signal light
fail to go off at speeds above idling, conditions must be brought to
attention of unit mechanic.

(3) At slow idle speed, or under approximately 20 miles per hour road
speed (in high gear), generator (green) signal light will normally
flash on and off, because at that speed generator voltage output is
very low and unsteady. CAUTION: Should generator (green) signal
light fail to go off at speed above approximately 20 miles per hour,
generator is either not charging at all, or its current output is not
up to normal, and generator should be given attention at once.

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8. STOPPING THE ENGINE.

a. Stop engine only by turning ignition and light switch to off
(straight‐ahead) position, to prevent discharge of battery through
spark coil primary circuit.

9. OPERATION OF VEHICLE.

a. Starting on Level Ground. The engine having been
warmed up and checked for satisfactory operation, the vehicle (with
operator in riding position) is put in motion as follows:

(1) Transfer body weight to right leg.

(2) Fold back side stand (jiffy stand).

(3) Disengage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with heel of left
foot.

(4) Shift gear shifter lever into “1” (low) gear position.

(5) Slowly engage clutch by depressing clutch foot pedal with toe of
left foot.

(6) When clutch starts to “take hold,” open throttle sufficiently to
maintain engine speed.

(7) Accelerate gradually to between 12 and 15 miles per hour in low
gear.

(8) Close throttle quickly.

(9) Disengage clutch.

(10) Shift through “N” (neutral) position into “2” (second) gear.

(11) Reengage clutch and accelerate to about 25 miles per hour.

(12) Close throttle quickly.

(13) Disengage clutch.

(14) Shift into “3” (high) gear.

(15) Reengage clutch and accelerate to desired speed.

b. Starting on Uneven or Soft Ground.

(1) If standing on an incline or in loose, heavy ground, more engine
power will be required to start vehicle without stalling engine.

(2) It may be necessary to keep vehicle from rolling by keeping
pressure on front brake hand lever. Brake pressure is released after
vehicle starts in forward motion.

(3) Open throttle and engage clutch at same time to provide power
needed for starting, without racing engine unnecessarily.

(4) Motorcycle starts should be made without excessive application of
power, with consequent unnecessary spinning of rear wheel.

10. DRIVING PRECAUTIONS.

a. Practice will enable a rider to judge at what rate of speed
the motorcycle should be moving before he shifts from a lower to
higher17 gear, and engine should never be permitted to labor unduly,
when a shift of gears, higher to lower, would improve operation.

(1) Operator must not look down at gear shifter when shifting gears,
but keep his eyes on the road ahead. Do not ride the clutch. The
operator’s foot should rest on clutch foot pedal only when he is
operating it. When shifting gears, disengage clutch fully to avoid gear
damage and shifting difficulties. CAUTION: Many transmissions are
ruined through failure to disengage clutch fully when shifting gears.

b. Braking. Rear wheel service brake must be in such
condition that medium‐hard application will cause rear wheel to lock.
Application of service brake should be gradual, with just enough force
to accomplish desired result.

(1) Auxiliary front wheel brake, when used in conjunction with service
brake, must be applied with caution, especially on wet, muddy, or
slippery roads.

(2) After passing through water, the brakes should be set slightly, and
the vehicle operated for a short distance, until sufficient heat has
been generated to dry the brakes.

c. Avoid Low Gear Operation. Always operate vehicle
in highest gear possible, consistent with tactical situation, speed
required, power required, and kind and nature of road substance, to
prevent overheating of engine.

d. High Speed Tips. Only experienced riders should
indulge in high‐speed riding. A motorcycle operated for long distances
at high speed must be given closer than ordinary attention to avoid
serious engine overheating with consequent damage. For better
motorcycle service, apply the following suggestions:

(1) Develop habit of frequently snapping throttle shut for an instant
when running at high speed. This draws additional lubrication to piston
and cylinder and assists in cooling engine.

(2) In cool weather, operate engine slowly until it is thoroughly
warmed up, to avoid damage to pistons, rings, cylinders, and other
parts before oil is warm enough to circulate freely.

(3) If handle bar windshield and leg shields are used, engine is
more likely to overheat with continued high‐speed riding. Watch this
carefully.

(4) Adjust “steering damper” for best control of motorcycle consistent
with riding speed and condition and nature of road.

11. STOPPING AND PARKING VEHICLE.

a. Stopping Vehicle. Rider will make a “restart” easier
and quicker if he will apply the following instructions upon stopping
vehicle:

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(1) Close throttle.

(2) Disengage clutch.

(3) Apply brake (or brakes) to slow vehicle without sliding rear tire.

(4) Just before coming to a complete stop, shift into “N” (neutral)
position and engage clutch. CAUTION: If immediate restart is to be
made, shift into “1” (low) gear and allow clutch foot pedal to remain
in disengaged position. (Rider will be mounted on motorcycle with
engine running.)

(5) Continue brake application to complete stop.

(6) After vehicle slows to point where it can no longer be balanced by
steering, place left foot on ground to maintain balance until right
foot can be removed from brake operating pedal. CAUTION: Do not idle
engine longer than 1 minute.

(7) Stop engine by turning ignition switch off.

b. Parking Vehicle.

(1) Lean motorcycle on side (jiffy) stand.

(2) Shift into “1” (low) gear.

(3) Engage clutch so vehicle cannot roll.

(4) Shut off gasoline supply by turning valve (to right) finger‐tight
against its seat.

12. TOWING VEHICLE TO START ENGINE.

a. In emergencies when engine cannot be started with foot
starter crank, it can be started by towing the motorcycle.

(1) Set gear shifter lever in “2” (second) gear position.

(2) Disengage clutch.

(3) Choke carburetor.

(4) Turn ignition switch on.

(5) After momentum of the towed motorcycle reaches between 10 and 15
miles per hour, engage clutch, and continue procedure until engine
starts.

b. Engine Starting with Dead Battery. Emergency engine
starting with dead battery can be effected by making use of freshly
charged battery, or by towing as outlined above. If vehicle with dead
battery is to be towed for engine starting, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect battery negative wire from ground on right side of
motorcycle.

(2) Tow motorcycle for engine starting.

(3) After engine is started, reconnect battery ground wire to frame to
prevent damage to electrical system.

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13. RUNNING‐IN NEW ENGINE (OR VEHICLE).

a. A new motorcycle engine or newly overhauled engine must be
given proper “break‐in” consideration for at least the first 1,000 to
1,200 miles of service. Failure to do this may result in damage that
will put engine out of active service within a short period of time.

b. At the first 250 miles, check front and rear drive chains
to make sure they are receiving required amount of oil for ample
lubrication. If necessary, have chain oilers adjusted by unit mechanic.
Drive chains must be inspected for correct adjustment, and be given
attention by unit mechanic as needed.

c. At first 500 miles, drain oil tank and refill with fresh
oil. Check front and rear chains (step b above). Thereafter, follow
instructions in Maintenance Operation section.

d. After a new motorcycle has been run 500 to 1,000 miles it
needs to be thoroughly checked over and any loose screws and nuts
tightened. Particular attention must be given engine and transmission
mounting bolts and nuts, and to rear wheel mounting socket screws.

e. Following pointers must be observed when running‐in new
engine or newly overhauled engine:

(1) Do not exceed 30 miles per hour during first 100 miles.

(2) Do not exceed 35 miles per hour during next 200 miles.

(3) Do not exceed 40 miles per hour during next 400 miles.

(4) Do not exceed 50 miles per hour during next 500 miles.

(5) Avoid use of low gears during break‐in operation as much as
possible.

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14. PURPOSE.

a. To insure mechanical efficiency it is necessary that the
vehicle be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is
operated and weekly, so that defects may be discovered and corrected
before they result in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled
maintenance services will be performed at these designated intervals.
The services set forth in this section are those performed by driver or
crew before operation, during operation, at halt, after operation, and
weekly.

b. Driver preventive maintenance services are listed on the back
of “Driver’s Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service Record,”
W.D. Form No. 48, to cover vehicles of all types and models. Items
peculiar to specific vehicles, but not listed on W.D. Form No. 48, are
covered in manual procedures under the items to which they are related.
Certain items listed on the form that do not pertain to the vehicle
involved are eliminated from the procedures as written into the manual.
Every organization must thoroughly school each driver in performing the
maintenance procedures set forth in manuals, whether or not they are
listed specifically on W.D. Form No. 48.

c. The items listed on W.D. Form No. 48 that apply to this
vehicle are expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for
accomplishment of the inspections and services. These services are
arranged to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver,
and are not necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on W.D.
Form No. 48. The item numbers, however, are identical with those shown
on that form.

d. The general inspection of each item applies also to any
supporting member or connection, and generally includes a check to see
whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure, or
excessively worn.

(1) The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond safe or
serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further by
the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned,21 not broken
or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or
cut.

(2) The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled”
is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its
normal assembled position in the vehicle.

(3) The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually
an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for
looseness. Such an inspection should include any brackets, lock
washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.

(4) “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn close to, or
beyond, serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not
replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

e. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics
beyond the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the
earliest opportunity to the designated individual in authority.

15. BEFORE‐OPERATION SERVICE.

a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to
see that the vehicle has not been tampered with, or sabotaged since the
After‐operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may
have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation and it is the duty of
the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to
carry out any mission to which it is assigned. This operation will not
be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations.

b. Procedures. Before‐operation Service consists of
inspecting items listed below according to the procedure described,
and correcting or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of
the service, results should be reported promptly to the designated
individual in authority.

(1) Item 1, Tampering and Damage. Look for any injury to
vehicle in general, its accessories or equipment, that may have been
caused by tampering, sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire
since parking vehicle. Look for loosened or damaged accessories, loose
fuel or oil lines, or any disconnected linkage.

(2) Item 3, Fuel and Oil. Inspect tanks for fuel and oil
levels, add oil and fuel as necessary. Any appreciable change in levels
since performing After‐operation Service should be investigated and
reported to designated authority.

(3) Item 4, Accessories and Drives. Examine all accessories
such as carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay for loose
connections, loose mountings, or leaks. Examine rear chain (final
drive) for free up‐and‐down movement (slack), midway between sprockets.
Total up‐and‐down movement must not be more than 1 inch, nor less than
½ inch. Inspect rear chain for adequate lubrication.

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(4) Item 6, Leaks, General. Examine vehicle and ground under
vehicle for indications of fuel or oil leaks. Normally a few drops of
waste oil from chains may be expected to drop from skid plate.

(5) Item 11, Glass. Clean glass on instruments; clean and
adjust rear view mirror; inspect glass for breakage.

(6) Item 12, Lamps. If tactical situation permits, observe
whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its
respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that
lights are secure, and that lenses are clean and not broken. Observe
whether both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch
on left handle bar is moved to its respective positions.

(7) Item 13, Wheels, Axle Nuts and Screws. Examine rear wheel
mounting socket screws, front and rear axle nuts, and front fork rocker
stud nuts for tightness. Observe rear chain adjusting screws for secure
locking. Inspect spokes for good condition and tightness.

(8) Item 14, Tires. Examine tires for cuts or imbedded objects
in treads or carcass. If time permits, check air pressure, which should
be 18 pounds front, and 20 pounds rear (tires cold). Inspect valve caps
for presence and secure mounting.

(9) Item 15, Springs and Suspension. Examine front fork
springs for secure mounting and good condition. Push down rear of
saddle to test for full action of saddle post spring.

(10) Item 16, Steering and Handle Bar Controls. Test steering
head bearing adjustment by exerting strong upward pull at handle bar
grips, and observing whether or not there is any noticeable play in
bearing. Operate steering damper lever and observe that damper is
compressed before lever reaches right‐side position, and is fully
released with lever in left‐side position. Test handle bar grip
controls for full, free action; also test for complete opening and
closing of throttle, and full advance and retard of timer.

(11) Item 17, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure
mounting.

(12) Item 21, Tools and Equipment. Inspect tools and equipment
for presence, serviceability, and proper stowage. (See tool list in
par. 21.)

(13) Item 7, Engine Warm‐up. Start engine, noting any tendency
toward hard starting, or improper action of foot starter crank. Set
throttle to moderate idle speed. Listen for unusual noises. Watch
instrument indications and engine performance, such as misfiring.
CAUTION: Do not idle engine longer than 1 minute with vehicle
standing.

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(14) Item 8, Choke. During idling of engine, reset choke as
required to prevent excessive choking and dilution of engine oil.

(15) Item 9, Instruments. When switch is turned on and engine
is idling at moderate speed both red light (indicating oil pressure)
and green light (indicating generator action) should be out. At lower
operating speeds generator‐indicating light may flicker. CAUTION: Do
not operate engine with red light on (no oil pressure).

(16) Item 10, Horn. Tactical situation permitting, test horn.

(17) Item 22, Engine Operation. Engine should idle smoothly.
Accelerate and decelerate, listening for any unusual noises that
may indicate compression or exhaust leaks, worn, damaged, loose, or
inadequately lubricated engine parts, or accessories. Note any unusual
smoke from exhaust.

(18) Item 23, Driver’s Permit, Accident Report Form No. 26, and
Vehicle Manual. These items must be present on vehicle and safely
stowed.

(19) Item 25, During‐operation Service. The During‐operation
Service should start immediately after vehicle is put in motion, in the
nature of a road test.

16. DURING‐OPERATION SERVICE.

a. While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as
rattles, knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Be alert
to detect any odor of overheated components or units such as generator,
brakes, or clutch, fuel vapor from a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas,
or other signs of trouble. Any time the brakes are used, gears shifted,
or vehicle turned, consider this a test and notice any unsatisfactory
or unusual performance. Watch the instruments constantly. Notice
promptly any unusual instrument indication that may signify possible
trouble in system to which the instrument applies.

b. Procedures. During‐operation Service consists of
observing items listed below according to the procedures following each
item, and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice
minor deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity,
usually at next scheduled halt.

(1) Item 27, Foot and Hand Brakes. The foot brake should
operate smoothly and effectively, leaving reserve pedal travel of 1
inch. Normal free play before operation is 1 inch. Test hand brake
lever for free play, which should be ¼ of total handle travel. Test for
ease and smoothness of operation.

(2) Item 28, Clutch. Inspect clutch for disengagement at about
½ pedal travel. Clutch should not chatter, squeal, or slip.

(3) Item 29, Transmission. Gears should shift smoothly,
operate quietly, and not jump out of mesh during operation. If
transmission24 jumps out of mesh in any gear, this indicates need of
shifter control adjustment.

(4) Item 31, Engine and Controls. Be alert for deficiency in
engine performance such as lack of usual power, misfiring, unusual
noise, stalling, indication of engine overheating, or unusual exhaust
smoke. Notice whether engine responds to controls satisfactorily,
whether controls appear to be in proper adjustment and are sufficiently
tight.

(5) Item 32, Instruments. Observe instruments for indication
of normal functioning of systems to which they apply.

(a) Speedometer and Odometer. Speedometer should indicate vehicle
speed without excessive noise or fluctuation. Odometer should record
trip and total mileage.

(b) Oil Pressure Signal Light. Red light should be off during
operation. If light goes on, stop vehicle and investigate for oil
pressure failure.

(c) Generator Signal Light. Green light should be off above 20
miles per hour. Battery discharge is indicated by green light being on.

(6) Item 33, Steering. Adjust steering damper to desired
steering friction. Observe vehicle steering for wander, shimmy, leading
to one side, or wheel hop.

(7) Item 34, Running Gear. Listen for any unusual noises from
wheels, axles, or suspension parts that might indicate looseness or
damage.

(8) Item 35, Chassis. Be alert for noises that might indicate
loose accessories, controls, attachments, or equipment.

17. AT‐HALT SERVICE.

a. At‐halt Service may be regarded as minimum maintenance
procedures and should be performed under all tactical conditions, even
though more extensive maintenance services must be slighted or omitted
altogether.

b. Procedures. At‐halt Service consists of investigating
any deficiencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below
according to the procedures following the items, and correcting any
deficiencies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported
promptly to the designated individual in authority.

(1) Item 38, Fuel and Oil. Replenish fuel and oil as may be
required to reach next refilling point. CAUTION: Left tank is for
fuel; right tank is for oil. Filler caps should not be interchanged, as
only fuel tank cap is vented.

(2) Item 39, Temperatures. Hand‐feel wheel hubs and brake
drums for overheating.

25

(3) Item 40, Vents. Make sure that crankcase breather outlet
and rear chain oil feed pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in
front and rear brake side covers are open and clean.

(4) Item 42, Springs and Suspensions. Look for broken springs
in fork.

(5) Item 43, Steering. Investigate any difficulty developed
during riding.

(6) Item 44, Wheels and Mounting Screws. Inspect wheels for
broken, bent, or loose spokes. Also, look for loose axle nuts or rear
wheel mounting screws. Inspect wheel rims for good condition.

(7) Item 45, Tires. Examine tires for low pressure or damage.
Remove foreign matter from tire treads; inspect for cuts.

(8) Item 46, Leaks, General. Inspect vehicle for indication of
fuel, oil, or battery leaks.

(9) Item 47, Accessories and Chain. Examine accessories for
loose connections, loose mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain
for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing
connecting link spring clips. Inspect chain for adequate lubrication.

(10) Item 48, Air Cleaner. Air cleaner must be secure,
with air passages in good condition and clean. When operating under
extremely dusty or sandy conditions, inspect air cleaner frequently and
service as required.

(11) Item 49, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Inspect these items for looseness or damage.

(12) Item 52, Appearance and Glass. Clean windshield, rear
view mirror, and light lenses; inspect for good condition, secure
attachment, and broken glass.

18. AFTER‐OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICE.

a. After‐operation Service is particularly important, because at
this time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies
that may have developed, and corrects those he is permitted to
handle. He should report promptly, to the designated individual in
authority, the results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed
thoroughly, the vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment’s
notice. The Before‐operation Service, with a few exceptions, is
then necessary only to ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same
condition in which it was left upon completion of the After‐operation
Service. The After‐operation Service should never be entirely omitted,
even in extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to the bare
fundamental services outlined for the At‐halt Service, if necessary.

b. Procedures. When performing the After‐operation
Service, the driver must remember and consider any irregularities
noticed during26 the day in the Before‐operation. During‐operation, and
At‐halt Services. The After‐operation Service consists of inspecting
and servicing the following items. Those items of the After‐operation
Services that are marked with an asterisk (*) require additional Weekly
services, the procedures for which are indicated in step (b) of each
applicable item.

(1) Item 54, Fuel and Oil. Fill fuel and oil tanks; fill oil
tank within 1 inch of top; be sure to put oil in right tank and fuel
in left tank; do not interchange caps. CAUTION: When operating under
extremely dusty conditions, drain engine oil tank and refill with fresh
oil as frequently as excessive contamination of the oil occurs.

(2) Item 55, Engine Operation. Test for satisfactory engine
idle without stalling. Accelerate and decelerate engine, noting any
tendency to miss or backfire, unusual noises, or vibration that may
indicate worn parts, loose mounting, incorrect fuel mixture, or
faulty ignition. Investigate any unsatisfactory engine operating
characteristics noted during operation. Learn to recognize noise caused
by loose primary (front) drive chain. Slack in excess of ½ inch total
up‐and‐down motion can cause excessive noise which sounds like engine
knock. Remove inspection cover for examination of chain.

(3) Item 57, Horn. If tactical situation permits, test horn.

(4) Item 59, Lights. If tactical situation permits, observe
whether blackout and service lights operate with switch in its
respective positions, and go out when switched off. Also see that
lights are secure, and lenses clean and not broken. Observe whether
both filaments of service headlight operate when dimmer switch on left
handle bar is moved to its respective positions.

(5) Item 56, Instruments. Before stopping engine, inspect
instruments to see that indicator lights are still out. Stop engine.
After 30 seconds, turn on switch to see that oil pressure and generator
signal lights turn on. CAUTION: Be sure to turn off ignition switch
after this test.

(6) Item 58, Glass. Clean rear view mirror, windshield,
instrument, and light glass. Examine for secure mounting and breakage.

(7) Item 62, *Battery.

(a) Inspect battery carrier for good condition and secure mounting.
Inspect electrolyte level (should be ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above plates). Inspect
for any signs of leakage of electrolyte indicating battery has been
overfilled, poorly sealed, or damaged. CAUTION: Do not add water
unless actually needed.

(b) Weekly. Clean dirt from top of battery, remove battery caps,
bring electrolyte level to ⁵⁄₁₆ inch above plates, using clean,
drinkable water. Clean terminals or posts if corroded; be sure felt
washers are27 on terminals and properly oiled; tighten terminal bolts
cautiously, if loose. Clean and paint battery carrier if corroded.

(8) Item 63, *Accessories and Chain.

(a) Inspect carburetor, air cleaner, generator, and cut‐out relay
for loose connections, mountings, or damage. Examine rear drive chain
for broken rollers, broken link side plates, and broken or missing
connecting link spring clips. Examine rear chain (final drive) for free
up‐and‐down movement (slack) midway between sprockets; maximum total
allowable deflection is 1 inch, minimum, ½ inch.

(b) Weekly. Tighten any accessory connections found loose. Wipe
excess dirt from rear chain. Check front chain for adjustment, and
inspect for proper lubrication.

(9) Item 65, *Air Cleaner.

(a) Examine oil cup for excessive dirt and correct oil level. If air
cleaner is excessively dirty, clean elements in dry‐cleaning solvent,
refill cup with fresh oil. Dip elements in oil in oil cup, replacing
elements and attaching oil cup immediately. If gaskets are damaged,
replace. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be necessary
to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily. Inspect hose
for leaks.

(b) Weekly. Inspect air cleaner for proper oil level and
excessively dirty oil. Clean and service air cleaner, tighten mounting
and hose clamps. NOTE: Early‐type, round air cleaner does not have
removable filter elements. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash
element.

(10) Item 66, *Fuel Filter (Gasoline Strainer).

(a) Clean cap and screen of fuel filter.

(b) Weekly. Clean cap and screen of fuel filter, remove carburetor
bowl drain plug, and drain off water and dirt. Be sure to replace plug,
being careful to avoid cross threading.

(11) Item 67, Engine Controls. Examine throttle and spark
controls for damage to wires or for disconnected linkage. Observe for
lack of lubrication.

(12) Item 68, *Tires.

(a) Remove foreign matter such as nails, glass, or stones from tire
treads. Inspect tires for abnormal tread wear, cuts, or bruises: also
for presence and tightness of valve caps. Inflate tires to 18 pounds
front, 20 pounds rear, with tires cool.

(b) Weekly. Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable tires.

(13) Item 69, *Springs and Suspension.

(a) Inspect front fork for broken or sagged springs, loose bolts,
studs, and nuts.

28

(b) Weekly. Tighten wheel axle nuts and rear brake sleeve nut. Also
tighten rear wheel mounting socket screws very securely.

(14) Item 70, Steering. Inspect steering head for proper
adjustment of bearings. Examine steering damper for correct adjustment.

(15) Item 72, *Vents.

(a) Make sure that crankcase breather outlet and rear chain oil
supply pipe are clear. Make sure grease drains in front and rear brake
side covers are open and clean.

(b) Weekly. Clean crankcase breather outlet, rear chain oil supply
pipe, and grease drains in front and rear brake side covers.

(16) Item 73, Leaks, General. Look around mechanism and
beneath vehicle for indication of fuel, oil, and grease leaks. Examine
around brake drums for evidence of grease in drums or on linings.
Normally a few drops of oil may be expected to drip from skid plate.

(17) Item 74, Gear Oil Levels. Inspect transmission oil level
with vehicle standing on rear stand (not jiffy stand); refill, if
required, to level of filler plug opening with engine oil. CAUTION: Do
not use gear oil.

(18) Item 76, Fenders (Mudguards), Luggage Carrier, Safety Guards,
and Stands. Examine these items for good condition and secure
mounting.

(19) Item 82, *Tighten.

(a) Inspect all frame and assembly nuts, bolts, and cap screws for
tightness.

(b) Weekly. Tighten all vehicle assembly or mounting nuts. Driver
is cautioned not to tamper with or tighten screws or nuts about the
circuit breaker, as doing so may disturb ignition timing.

(20) Item 83, *Lubricate as Needed.

(a) Lubricate all parts where inspection reveals need for
lubrication: wipe all dirt from fittings before applying lubricant.
Report any missing fittings.

(b) Weekly. When vehicle has been driven a sufficient number
of miles so that it is due for a regularly scheduled lubrication,
lubricate according to Lubrication Guide in manual and current
lubrication directives. Refrain from overlubricating wheel bearings,
front brake side cover bushing, and front and rear brake operating
lever camshafts.

(21) Item 84, *Clean Engine and Vehicle.

(a) Clean dirt and trash from vehicle and remove excess grease.

(b) Weekly. Wash vehicle if possible. If not, wipe off thoroughly.
Do not rub lustreless paint enough to cause shine. If vehicle is washed
in a stream, care should be taken that water or dirt does not get
into bearings, breather valve, or brakes. CAUTION: It is extremely
important29 that high‐pressure streams or steam should not be directed
against wheel hubs, brakes, carburetor, air cleaner, or electrical
units.

(12) Item 64, *Electrical Wiring.

(a) Inspect all ignition wiring to see that it is securely connected,
clean, and not damaged.

(b) Weekly. Inspect all wiring to see that it is securely connected
and supported, that insulation is not cracked or chafed, that loom,
shielding, and condensers are in good condition and securely attached.
Clean as required. Tighten any loose connections carefully. Radio
shielding or bonding defects, except cleaning or tightening, must be
referred to signal corps personnel.

(23) Item 85, *Tools and Equipment.

(a) See that all tools and equipment assigned to vehicle are present,
in good condition, and properly stowed.

(b) Weekly. Check tools and equipment assigned to vehicle with
vehicle stowage list (par. 21) to see that they are present. Inspect
tools for good condition and proper stowage. Report missing or
unserviceable items to designated authority.

30

19. INTRODUCTION.

a. Lubrication is an essential part of preventive maintenance,
determining to a great extent serviceability of parts and assemblies.

20. LUBRICATION GUIDE (fig. 10).

a. General. Lubrication instructions for this materiel
are consolidated in a Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). These specify the
points to be lubricated, the periods of lubrication, and the lubricant
to be used. Intervals indicated on the guide are for normal service.
For extreme conditions, high speed, heat, mud, snow, rough roads, dust,
etc., change engine oil and lubricate more frequently. In addition to
the items on the guide, brake, gear shifter, clutch control linkage,
and hinges must be lubricated at frequent intervals.

b. Supplies. In the field it may not be possible
to supply a complete assortment of lubricants called for by the
Lubrication Guide to meet the recommendations. It will be necessary
to make the best use of those available, subject to inspection by the
officer concerned, in consultation with responsible ordnance personnel.

c. Lubrication Notes. The following notes apply to the
Lubrication Guide (fig. 10). All note references in the guide itself
are to the steps below having the corresponding number:

(1) Brake Fittings. Exercise caution when lubricating brake
operating cams and front brake cover bushing, as excess grease working
out of these bearings is likely to get onto brake lining, reducing
brake efficiency. CAUTION: When using air‐operated grease gun, make
sure not to overlubricate brake fittings.

(2) Brake Hand Lever Oilcan Points. Oil hand lever fittings
and “oiler” mounted on cable housing. Oil front brake control cable at
ends of control cable housing.

(3) Generator Commutator End Bearing. Hand‐pack with general
purpose grease, No. 2, at temperatures above zero. Below zero, use
lighter grease. This operation requires removal of generator end cover.
Bearing outer grease retainer must be loosened and swung aside for
access to bearing. If not convenient to grease bearing at specified
intervals, at least lubricate with a few drops of engine oil applied
to hole in outer grease retainer. Do not overlubricate. CAUTION:
Generator regulating brush plate must not be shifted while31
32 bearing
outer grease retainer is loose (par. 92). Generator drive end bearing
requires no attention, since it is lubricated by oil circulating
through engine.

—— KEY ——
				INTERVALS
LUBRICANTS				¼	—	250 MILES
OE	—	OIL, ENGINE (CRANKCASE GRADE)		½	—	500 MILES
CG	—	GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE		1	—	1000 MILES
		No. 1 (ABOVE +32°)		6	—	6000 MILES
		No. 1 OR No. 0 (+32° TO +10°)		* L	—	SPECIAL LUBRICATION
		No. 0 (BELOW +10°)		CHECK DAILY
WB	—	GREASE, GENERAL PURPOSE (No. 2)		Air Cleaner
				Engine Oil Tank

TABLE OF CAPACITIES WITH RECOMMENDATIONS AT TEMPERATURES SHOWN
UNIT	CAPACITY	ABOVE +32°	+32° TO +10°	BELOW +10°
OIL TANK	1 GALLON	OE     S.A.E. 50	OE     S.A.E. 30	OE     S.A.E. 10
TRANSMISSION	¾ pint	OE     S.A.E. 50	OE     S.A.E. 30	OE     S.A.E. 10

RA PD 310207
Figure 10—Lubrication Guide

(4) Spark and Throttle Control Grips. These grips require
disassembly. Twice a year, or whenever grips do not turn freely,
indicating need of lubrication, remove grips, clean parts, apply
grease, and reassemble (par. 101).

(5) Air Cleaner. Examine oil cup daily for excessive dirt and
correct oil level. Under extremely dusty or sandy conditions it may be
necessary to clean and refill the air cleaner more than once daily.
Refill oil cup to indicated level with engine oil. Drain, clean, and
refill oil cup every 250 miles, depending upon operating conditions.
Every 1,000 miles (oftener if necessary), remove air cleaner filter
units, wash in dry‐cleaning solvent, lubricate, and reassemble (par.
76). NOTE: Early type round cleaner did not have removable filter
element. Complete cleaner must be removed to wash element.

(6) Wheel Bearings. When wheel hubs are lubricated at regular
500‐mile interval, ¹⁄₈ ounce of grease with each greasing is sufficient.
This amounts to about 15 shots of the standard 1‐pound air gun, or four
strokes with a 1‐pound, hand‐operated gun. If vehicle has been operated
in water, wheel hubs submerged, apply hub greasing service immediately
afterward (or soon as situation permits). Do not overlubricate wheel
hub bearings, as excess grease may work into brake linings, reducing
brake efficiency. When using air‐operated grease gun, it is easy to
overlubricate wheel hub bearings.

(7) Steering Head Bearings. Every 50,000 miles, repack upper
and lower bearings, or whenever there is occasion to remove rigid fork
for repair or replacement (par. 98).

(8) Tank, Engine Oil. Oil tank is located on right side of
motorcycle. Empty tank holds 1 U. S. gallon. Check daily and add engine
oil as necessary to refill tank within 1 inch of top. Oil level gage
rod (dip stick) is located directly below tank cap. When oil level is
down to “REFILL” mark on gage rod, 2 U. S. quarts may be added. Drain
oil tank every 1,000 miles and refill with fresh engine oil. Drain plug
located on underside of tank in forward position. In extremely dusty
service, and in winter weather, change oil oftener.

(a) Winter Caution. Water is a by‐product of combustion in any
internal combustion engine. In a condensed state, the water vapor
formed would equal approximately the quantity of gasoline burned. Some
of this water vapor escapes past the rings into the crankcase. When
starting and warming up in cold weather, considerable vapor getting
into crankcase condenses to water before crankcase is hot enough
to exhaust the vapor, without inside condensation, through outside
breather. If engine is driven enough to get crankcase thoroughly warmed
up frequently, most of this water is again vaporized33 and blown out
through outside breather. However, a moderately driven engine, making
only short runs now and then, and seldom thoroughly warmed up, is
likely to accumulate an increasing amount of water in oil tank. This
water will, in freezing weather, become slush or ice and, if allowed
to accumulate too long, may block oil lines with resulting damage to
engine. Also, water mixed with oil for some time, forms a heavy sludge
of considerable acid content that is very harmful to bearings and
other internal engine parts. To sum it up briefly, an engine that is
used only for short runs during freezing weather requires frequent oil
changes along with thorough flushing of tank to remove any accumulated
sludge.

(9) Transmission Filler Opening. Check oil level in
transmission case every 250 miles and add engine oil as necessary
to bring level up to filler opening. If motorcycle is run unusually
long distances, inspect more frequently. Motorcycle must be on rear
stand in straight upright position when checking oil level or filling
transmission case. Use same grade of oil used in engine, summer, and
winter. If gear shifting difficulty is caused by oil congealing in
extremely cold weather, thin oil with small amount of kerosene or
dry‐cleaning solvent. Every 1,000 miles, drain and refill transmission
to level of transmission filler plug opening with specified grade of
engine oil. Transmission holds ¾ pint of oil. To drain transmission
case remove filler plug and lay motorcycle on right side. CAUTION: Do
not leave motorcycle on side longer than two minutes.

(10) Drive Chains.

(a) Front and rear drive chains are automatically supplied with
lubrication by engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may
need occasional readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied
operating conditions. Every 1,000 miles (or more often if operating
conditions are extremely severe) inspect front primary drive chain for
adequate lubrication (fig. 36).

(b) At every 1,000‐mile period rear drive chain should have
additional lubrication as follows: Remove chain, wash thoroughly in
dry‐cleaning solvent and hang it up to dry. Then soak chain in SAE 10
engine oil for a short period of time to allow oil to penetrate into
all chain bearings. Drain chain and wipe off excess oil. Install rear
chain (par. 63). (This attention is not required by front chain.)
Readjustment of chain oilers must be made only by organization mechanic
(par. 61). CAUTION: Inspect frequently and make sure that rear chain
oiler supply pipe is clear, not bent or damaged.

d. Before Applying Lubricant. Always wipe dirt from the
lubrication fittings or plugs so that dirt will not enter with the
lubricant. Lubricate all chassis points after washing vehicle or after
vehicle has been operated in streams or extremely muddy or slushy
roads. CAUTION: It is extremely important that high‐pressure cleaning
streams34 or steam should not be directed against ends of wheel
hubs, brake side cover bearings, air cleaner, handle bar grips, or
electrical system. To do so will seriously affect correct lubrication
and functioning of these parts.

e. Oilcan Points. All brake, transmission, and clutch
control points not fitted with grease connections should be lubricated
with engine oil. Front brake control cable, spark, and throttle
control wires must be oiled at the ends of their respective housings,
especially after washing vehicle, or after operating it in wet weather.
Keep battery terminal felt washers saturated with engine oil to prevent
corrosion of connections.

f. Warning Light. Action of the engine oil feed pump
is indicated by red signal light in instrument panel. Rider must be
thoroughly familiar with operating characteristics of this signal
light, to judge condition of engine oil circulating system (par. 7 f).

35

RA PD 310208
Figure 11—Vehicle Tools

21. VEHICLE TOOLS (fig. 11).

a. Kits. Included in the tool kit assembly are the
following:

*EXCEPTION: Earlier models furnished with smaller tool roll and kit
contain the items marked by asterisk.

22. VEHICLE EQUIPMENT (figs. 12 and 13).

a. Attached to Vehicle.

37

RA PD 310216
Figure 12—Vehicle Equipment, Left Side

RA PD 310217
Figure 13—Vehicle Equipment, Right Side

38

RA PD 310209
Figure 14—Vehicle Spare Parts

23. VEHICLE SPARE PARTS (fig. 14).

3a. Spare Parts.

39

Section VII

MAINTENANCE ALLOCATION

24. SCOPE.

a. The scope of maintenance and repair by the crew and other
units of the using arms is determined by the availability of suitable
tools, availability of necessary parts, capabilities of the mechanics,
time available, and the tactical situation. All of these are variable
and no exact system of procedure can be prescribed.

25. ALLOCATION OF MAINTENANCE.

a. Indicated below are the maintenance duties for which tools
and parts have been provided for the using arm and maintenance
personnel. Replacements and repairs which are the responsibility of
ordnance maintenance personnel may be performed by using arm personnel
when circumstances permit, within the discretion of the commander
concerned. Echelons and words as used in this list of maintenance
allocations are defined as follows:

NOTES: (1) Operations allocated will normally be performed in the
echelon indicated by X.

(2) Operations allocated to the third echelon as indicated by E may
be performed by these units in emergencies only.

(3) Operations allocated to the fourth echelon by E are normally
fifth echelon operations. They will not be performed by the fourth
echelon, unless the unit is expressly authorized to do so by the
chief of the service concerned.

45

26. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICES.

a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are
a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the
responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.

(1) Frequency. The frequencies of the preventive maintenance
services outlined herein are considered a minimum requirement for
normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions
such as extreme temperatures, and dusty or sandy terrain, it may be
necessary to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.

(2) First Echelon Participation. The drivers should accompany
their vehicles and assist the mechanics while periodic second echelon
preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily the driver
should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive maintenance
service in a reasonably clean condition; that is, it should be dry,
and not caked with mud or grease to such an extent that inspection and
servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the vehicle should not
be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain types of defects,
such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or assemblies are
more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.

(3) If instructions other than those contained in the general
procedures in paragraph (4) or the specific procedures in paragraph (5)
which follow, are required for the correct performance of a preventive
maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency, other sections
of the vehicle operator’s manual pertaining to the item involved, or a
designated individual in authority, should be consulted.

(4) General Procedures. These general procedures are basic
instructions which are to be followed when performing the services
on the items listed in the specific procedures. The second echelon
personnel must be thoroughly trained in these procedures so that they
will apply them automatically.

(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to correct
deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean,
correctly installed, properly lubricated, and adjusted.

(b) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the
lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the
seal.

(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any
supporting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see46
whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure,
or excessively worn. The mechanics must be thoroughly trained in the
following explanations of these terms:

1. The inspection for “good condition” is usually an external visual
inspection to determine whether or not the unit is damaged beyond safe
or serviceable limits. The term “good condition” is explained further
by the following: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned, not broken
or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed, not torn or
cut.

2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is “correctly assembled”
is usually an external visual inspection to see whether or not it is in
its normal assembled position in the vehicle.

3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is “secure” is usually
an external visual examination, a hand‐feel, or a pry‐bar check for
looseness; such an inspection should include any brackets, lock
washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used in assembly.

4. “Excessively worn” will be understood to mean worn, close to or
beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not
replaced before the next scheduled inspection.

(d) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item
numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the services
are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are to
receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number in
one or both columns opposite a Tighten procedure, means that the
actual tightening of the object must be performed. The special services
include:

1. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with the
pertinent section of the vehicle operator’s manual, special bulletins,
or other current directives.

2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry‐cleaning solvent to
remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After the
parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean dry‐cleaning solvent, and dry
them thoroughly. Take care to keep the parts clean until reassembled,
and be certain to keep dry‐cleaning solvent away from rubber or other
material which it will damage. Clean the protective grease coating from
new parts, since this material is not a good lubricant.

3. Special lubrication. This applies both to lubrication operations
that do not appear on the vehicle Lubrication Guide, and to items
that do appear on such guides, but should be performed in connection
with the maintenance operations, if parts have to be disassembled for
inspection or service.

4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations,
such as replenishing battery water, and draining and refilling units
with oil.

47

5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with
sufficient wrench‐torque (force on the wrench handle) to tighten the
nut according to good mechanical practice. Use torque‐indicating
wrench where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads,
or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include
the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins
provided to secure the tightening.

(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete
preventive maintenance procedures at one time, these can sometimes be
handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within the
task if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac areas must
be utilized, if necessary, to assure that maintenance operations are
completed. When limited by the tactical situation, items with special
services in the columns should be given first consideration.

(f) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that follow
are identical with those outlined on W.D. AGO Form No. 463, which
is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for Motorcycles.
Certain items on the work sheet that do not apply to this vehicle
are not included in the procedures in this manual. In general, the
numerical sequence of items on the work sheet is followed in the manual
procedures, but in some instances there is deviation for conservation
of the mechanic’s time and effort.

(5) Specific Procedures. The procedures for performing each
item in the 1,000‐mile maintenance procedures are described in the
following chart. Each page of the chart has a column at its left edge
corresponding to the 1,000‐mile maintenance.

ROAD TEST

60

27. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.

a. Refer to SNL–N 19 for common hand tools available to second
echelon.

b. Refer to list given below for all special tools available to
second echelon.

61

28. INTRODUCTION.

a. Trouble shooting for the entire vehicle is given in this
section. The engine trouble shooting paragraph traces trouble to a
system affecting engine performance: for example, fuel or ignition. To
trace trouble to one or more defective components of a system, it is
necessary to refer to the pertinent paragraph of this section when the
defective system or systems have been located in the engine trouble
shooting paragraph.

b. The material given in this section applies to the operation
of the vehicle under normal conditions. If extreme conditions of
temperature occur, it is assumed the operator of the vehicle has
prepared his vehicle for use for the conditions encountered.

29. ENGINE.

a. Instruction. This subparagraph traces troubles to a
system affecting engine performance. Step b below gives simple engine
tests to determine the mechanical condition of the engine. References
in step b refer to step c for engine mechanical troubles, or to
pertinent paragraphs in this section for system troubles, or when a
test indicates a special unit is faulty, to the pertinent paragraph in
this manual.

(1) Engine Does Not Turn Over When Foot Starter Is Operated.

(a) Clutch slipping. Check adjustment (par. 48).

(b) Sheared engine sprocket key. Replace (par. 65).

(c) Starter clutch stuck by congealed oil. Free starter clutch. Use
proper grade of oil.

(d) Starter clutch worn. Refer to maintenance personnel.

62

(e) Engine locked (seized). Refer to organization mechanic.

(2) Engine Turns Over When Cranked but Does Not Start.

(a) Fuel supply valve closed. Open valve.

(b) Empty fuel tank. Fill tank.

(c) Fuel system faulty. Refer to paragraph 31.

(d) Ignition system faulty. Refer to paragraph 32.

(e) Battery weak or dead. Refer to paragraph 34.

(f) Insufficient compression. Refer to step b, below.

(3) Weak Compression. Refer to step b below for test.

(a) Improper valve tappet adjustment. Adjust (par. 43).

(b) Valves sticking. Use dry‐cleaning solvent to free valve stems in
guides.

(c) Faulty lubrication. Refer to paragraph 20.

(d) Loose cylinder head bolts and/or faulty gasket. Tighten head
bolts or replace gasket (par. 41).

(4) Overheating.

(a) Faulty fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(b) Dirt on cylinders. Clean fins on cylinder, especially the fins on
cylinder head.

(c) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(d) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(e) Idling engine without having vehicle in motion. Do not idle
engine longer than 1 minute.

(f) Valve tappet adjustment incorrect. Refer to step b (1) below for
test, to paragraph 43 for adjustment.

(g) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

(h) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to organization mechanic.

(5) Lack of Power.

(a) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(b) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(c) Overheating. Refer to step (4) above.

(d) Defective lubricating system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(e) Poor compression. Refer to step (3) above.

(f) Drive chains too tight. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

(g) Brakes dragging. Adjust (pars. 96 and 97).

(6) Popping and Spitting Through Carburetor.

(a) Water in fuel. Water may be present in fuel tank and carburetor.
Drain and refill fuel tank and carburetor bowl.

(b) Incorrect valve tappet adjustment or sticky valves. Test (step
b (1) below). Adjust tappets (par. 43).63 (c) Defective
ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(d) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(e) Weak and/or broken valve springs. Refer to higher authority.

(7) Spark Knock.

(a) Defective ignition system. Refer to paragraph 32.

(b) Excessive carbon deposits. Refer to step b (2) below.

(c) Defective fuel system. Refer to paragraph 31.

(d) Defective lubrication system. Refer to paragraph 30.

(8) Pounding and Excessive Metallic Noise.

(a) Front drive chain too loose. Refer to paragraph 36.

(b) Engine sprocket loose on shaft.

(c) Excessively loose valve tappets. Adjust (par. 43).

(d) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten.

(e) Transmission mounting stud nuts loose. Tighten (par. 60).

(f) Spark timing incorrect. Adjust.

(g) Internal parts of engine worn or broken. Notify organization
mechanic.

b. Tests to Determine Mechanical Condition of Engine.

(1) Rings and Valves. This is a simple compression test. If
possible, make this test with the engine warm. Ignition switch must
be off. Crank engine slowly, placing entire weight of body on starter
crank. Engine compression should sustain the weight of an average size
rider several seconds before crank passes through complete range of
its travel. If engine offers little resistance to starter crank in
testing either or both cylinders, it is an indication that compression
is not adequate in one or both cylinders. No clearance or insufficient
clearance at valve tappets; valves sticking in guides; valves seating
poorly; cylinder heads leaking; spark plugs loose in heads; piston
rings badly worn and/or broken; cylinder and pistons badly worn, or
lack of lubrication could cause the above condition. Make external
checks first: See that oil is in tank, that spark plugs are tight, and
examine around cylinder heads for signs of leaking oil deposits. In
extremely cold weather, resistance to the starter crank is increased by
“stiff” oil in engine and transmission. Therefore, do not mistake this
condition to indicate actual engine compression.

(2) Abnormal Engine Noise. Owing to constructional design of
the motorcycle, correct adjustment of the several units and components
is necessary for smooth and normally quiet engine operation. Many
motorcycles have been “deadlined” and engines exchanged because
simple tune‐up service and correct adjustment of components have been
neglected. Rough, jerky, and noisy engine action at low speed riding
is usually caused by excessively loose front and rear drive chains,
or by a transmission being loose in its frame mounting.64 Fast idling
of engine with the front drive chain too loose, may give the false
impression that the engine bearings and pistons need replacement
service. Engine sprocket loose on its shaft will cause a pounding noise
similar to that of badly worn engine bearings. If front drive chain
is too tight, or engine sprocket and chain are badly worn, a grinding
noise results, seeming to come from the engine. Excessively loose valve
tappets will cause abnormal metallic noise in the valve timing gear
train and engine crankcase. Spark advanced too far will cause rough
engine performance at low speeds as well as spark knock, pounding,
and overheating. Engine pounding and rough operation with consequent
noise, result from loose mounting bolts. Generator mounted to give
insufficient gear‐tooth clearance will cause “howl” in gear case.

30. ENGINE LUBRICATING SYSTEM.

a. Action of the oil feed pump is indicated by the red signal
light located in right side of instrument panel. (Red signal light is
normally grounded by the oil pressure switch. When oil pump pressure
is built up several pounds, diaphragm opens the signal light circuit.)
Action of the scavenger (oil return) pump is indicated (engine running)
by oil dripping from ¹⁄₈–inch hole in oil return tube (large tube) inside
oil tank, just back of oil gage rod (dip stick) tube. Since the oil
feed pump and scavenger pump are separate units, operated individually,
it is possible (due to faulty unit) for either to function alone, thus
affecting engine oil pressure and return of oil to the tank. Action
of the vent pipe (small pipe) located within the oil tank is of a
“breather” nature; its function not being indicated in any manner.
Before attempting to diagnose trouble in engine lubricating system,
rider must be familiar with and understand indications by instrument
panel signal lights (par. 7 f).

b. Red Signal Light Fails to Burn When Ignition and Light
Switch is Turned On.

(1) Check other lights to determine if battery is “up” and that switch
and wiring connections between battery and switch are in good order.
See that wire connection is secure and screw is tight on oil pressure
switch terminal. Failure of light to burn after these checks indicates
that either the lamp is burned out or oil pressure switch is faulty.

(2) Test to eliminate the oil pressure switch by removing wire from
switch terminal; ground wire on switch body and note if red light burns
with ignition and light switch in “ON” position. If light burns, it
indicates that oil pressure switch is faulty, and must be replaced.
If light does not burn in making this test, it indicates that lamp is
burned out. Remove panel cover (par. 119) and replace lamp.

65

c. Red Signal Light Continues to Burn After Engine Is
Operated Above Idling Speeds.

(1) Check oil supply in tank. If light fails to go out after engine
is warm, or after 1 minute of operation, further checks must be made
to locate trouble, as indication points to faulty engine lubrication
system, or fault in signal circuit. Eliminate the signal system first.

(2) Test oil pressure signal switch to panel signal light circuit.
Remove wire from oil pressure switch terminal by turning on ignition
and light switch and observing red signal light. If light burns, short
circuit in wiring exists. If light does not burn, it indicates normal
condition, leaving oil pressure switch of the signal circuit to be
tested.

(3) Install new oil pressure switch and start engine. If red signal
light goes out after engine is operated above idling speeds, it
indicates trouble in oil pressure signal switch. If red signal light
continues to burn, it indicates trouble in oil feed pump. Replace pump
(par. 44).

d. Excessive Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Oil Spray Issues
from Gear Case Breather Outlet. This is an indication that the
scavenger pump is not draining engine crankcase and returning oil to
tank. With engine running at idle speed, examine oil return in tank.
Remove tank oil cap, and with a small flashlight (tactical situation
permitting), observe whether or not oil is dripping from ¹⁄₈–inch hole
in oil return tube. Hole is on under side of tube and is located just
back of oil gage rod tube. If observation is poor, place finger over
hole and feel for pulsation of oil pressure. If oil does not return to
tank, scavenger pump is faulty. Should the crankcase breather valve
be incorrectly timed, smoke will issue from the exhaust, but not as
noticeably as when scavenger pump is not working. Refer to step e below
for this condition.

e. Smoke Issues from Exhaust and Excessive Oil Condition Exists
Around Cylinder Exhaust Ports (where exhaust pipes enter
cylinders). Engine scavenger pump and crankcase breather valve are
one unit, operated by worm gear located behind engine shaft pinion
gear. Although scavenger pump is not “timed,” the breather valve sleeve
which drives it must be timed to balance the engine lubricating system.
If for any reason the scavenger pump unit is removed from engine base,
the breather valve must be retimed (within the gear case) when pump
assembly is replaced. Incorrectly timed breather valve will force oil
past piston rings, causing some smoke, besides forcing oil out through
exhaust ports, causing excessive oily condition around exhaust pipes
where they enter cylinder ports.

31. FUEL SYSTEM.

a. Many symptoms which might be attributed to the air‐fuel
system are, in reality, due to faulty ignition. Before attempting any66
but the obviously required adjustments, check the ignition system
thoroughly. Gasoline tank supply valve is a dual purpose valve, and its
operation is explained in paragraph 5 b.

b. Shut off gasoline supply valve. Disconnect fuel line at
strainer, open valve, and observe free flow of fuel from pipe. If line
is plugged, remove, clean out, and replace.

c. Remove, disassemble, clean, and install fuel strainer (par.
72).

d. Hard Starting, Spitting, and Misfiring Caused by Water
in Fuel. Remove drain screw from carburetor bowl, drain bowl,
and replace screw. Take care not to cross drain screw threads when
replacing. If there is still evidence of water, dirt, or other foreign
matter after bowl is drained, replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).
Remove air cleaner oil cup and inspect for evidence of water in oil.
Drain, clean, refill to correct level mark, and replace cup. Should
above procedure fail to eliminate trouble, drain fuel tank by removing
drain plug located under tank in forward position. Replace drain plug
and refill tank with fuel.

e. Hard Starting, or Missing at Idling and Low Speeds.
Carburetor low speed circuit in need of adjustment (par. 68).
Carburetor high speed circuit is controlled by a fixed jet.

f. Impossible to Obtain Satisfactory Carburetor Adjustment:
Lean Spot Between Idling and Up to 30 Miles per Hour Speeds.
Carburetors in service for some time become dirty and crust forms
in the throttle barrel, making satisfactory low speed adjustment
difficult, if not impossible. Replace carburetor (pars. 70 and 71).

g. Fuel Leaking from Carburetor. Evidence of dirt in
float valve, incorrect float level, or faulty float. Replace carburetor
(pars. 70 and 71).

h. Difficult Starting, Fuel Mixture Too Rich. Air cleaner
oil cup overfilled, or cleaner elements exceptionally dirty, choking
off adequate air supply to carburetor. Check the oil cup level. If oil
cup level is correct, remove, clean, and install cleaner elements (par.
76).

32. IGNITION SYSTEM.

a. When checking ignition system for trouble, make the most
obvious and simple checks first. For example: Turn on ignition and
light switch, observe lights to ascertain battery current supply; then
check to see that current is reaching spark coil, circuit breaker, etc.
Faulty spark plugs are responsible for the great majority of engine
ignition troubles. There is no service for spark plugs other than
sandblast cleaning and correct adjustment of electrodes. Questionable
spark plugs must be replaced (par. 83).

b. Remedy all poor connections in ignition wiring system (
fig. 48).

67

c. Remove circuit breaker cover, operate engine with starter
pedal, and observe opening and closing of circuit breaker points.
Correct point gap when breaker lever fiber is on highest point of cam
is 0.022 inch. For adjustment refer to paragraph 84.

d. Testing for High Tension Spark. Spark at plug gaps
depends upon condition and operation of circuit breaker points,
condition of condenser, and condition of spark coil and high‐tension
cables. Testing the ignition system is best done by means of
elimination, testing each unit by replacement until trouble is located;
then replacing serviceable units which were removed.

(1) Remove spark plug cable terminal from either plug, leaving other
cable and plug connected (to effect ground return of high‐tension
current); turn engine until circuit breaker points are closed; turn
ignition and light switch on; hold high tension cable terminal ¼ inch
from cylinder; open and close circuit breaker points with finger and
observe spark jump at gap. If spark jumps gap, it indicates ignition
primary and secondary circuits are complete.

(2) No spark at high‐tension gap calls for testing of primary and
secondary circuits. Turn engine until breaker points are held open;
hold cable end ¼ inch from cylinder; turn ignition switch on and with
the bit of a screwdriver, make a good ground connection between breaker
movable (lever) point, and the ground. If a good spark is obtained
at high‐tension cable terminal gap when ground connection made by
screwdriver is broken, clean or replace faulty breaker points (par. 84).

(3) If circuit breaker points are in good condition, but no spark (or
a very weak spark) occurs at high‐tension gap, replace condenser (par.
85) and repeat test under step (1) above. If replacement of condenser
does not remedy trouble, replace spark coil (par. 89).

(4) If tests made under steps d (1), (2), and (3) above show ignition
system to be in good order (no units having been replaced), and
ignition trouble still exists, it means that breaker points, condenser,
and spark coil must be replaced with new units and engine road test
made with each replacement until trouble has been located and remedied.

e. Ignition System Tests Satisfactory but Engine Starts Hard,
Overheats or Misses. Clearly an indication that spark plugs are
faulty. Remove spark plugs, clean with sandblast, regap points between
0.028 inch to 0.030 inch and reinstall. Replace defective plugs with
new ones of correct (No. 2) heat range (par. 83).

f. Engine Misses After Warm‐up, or When Quite Hot.
Replacement of spark plugs should remedy this trouble. If it does not,
then either the condenser or spark coil is at fault. Replace condenser
first (par. 85). If new condenser fails to correct trouble, replace
spark coil (par. 89).

68

33. GENERATING SYSTEM.

a. Panel Green Signal Light Continues to Burn Above 20 Miles
per Hour. Correct faulty wiring and connections between battery
and generator. Refer to figure 55. Inspect condition of relay and,
if necessary, replace (par. 95). Inspect brushes and commutator of
generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If brushes are
sticking in holders or badly worn, replace generator (pars. 93 and 94).

b. Generator Output Fails to Keep Battery Charged Although
Green Signal Light Behavior Is Satisfactory. Test battery: if it
will not hold charge, or is defective, replace (par. 113). If the
machine is used most of the time for night operation, have a higher
echelon increase the generating charging rate. Inspect brushes and
commutator of generator. Clean commutator if necessary (par. 91). If
brushes are badly worn or sticking in holders, replace generator (pars.
93 and 94).

34. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

a. Panel Lamps Do Not Light When Switch Is Turned On.
Examine each lamp and if burned out, replace (par. 120). Examine
battery; if discharged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring and
connections (fig. 71). Test light switch: if defective, replace (par.
116). Test blackout light switch (in lamp body): if defective, replace
lamp (par. 114).

b. Lights Burn Dim but Brighten Up Considerably When Engine
Is Accelerated. Test battery with hydrometer. If it is not fully
charged, replace (par. 113). Remedy defective wiring, connections, and
switches in circuit (fig. 73). If the battery runs down again after a
short period of operation, have the generator output increased (refer
to a higher echelon).

c. Lights Exceed Normal Brilliancy When Accelerating
Engine. Examine battery: if defective, replace (par. 113). Remedy
faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73). Do not forget the ground
connection of the lamp body.

d. Blackout Stop Lamp and/or Service Stop Lamp Fail to
Light. If the unit is burned out, replace it (par. 115). If the
brake pedal is not operating switch, remedy the faulty operation.
Remedy all faulty wiring and connections (fig. 73).

69

e. Horn Does Not Sound When Ignition and Light Switch Is
Turned On and Horn Button Is Pressed. Test battery by turning on
lights. If lights are dim, replace battery (par. 113). Remedy defective
wiring and connections (fig. 73). If the horn does not respond to
adjustment, replace (par. 117).

35. TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH.

a. Need for attention to clutch and controls is indicated by
clutch slipping under load or dragging (transmission gears will shift
hard and clash) when in disengaged position. In either case, the first
thing to be checked is adjustment of controls; this being the attention
usually needed. Indication that gear shifter controls are in need of
adjustment is when transmission gears “jump” out of engagement when
accelerating vehicle or when under heavy pull. CAUTION: This warning
must not be disregarded.

(1) Clutch Slips When Fully Engaged. Adjust clutch control
(par. 48). Adjust clutch spring tension (par. 48). If the clutch still
slips, replace either the disks, springs, or both (par. 48).

(2) Clutch Drags When Fully Disengaged. Adjust control (par.
48). Adjust spring tension (par. 48).

(3) Clutch Rattles When in Disengaged Position, Engine Idling.
In this case, the clutch probably was not properly assembled. Refer to
paragraph 51 a.

(4) Transmission “Jumps” Out of Gear Upon Accelerating Vehicle, or
When Under Heavy Pull. Adjust shifter lever control linkage (par.
54).

(5) Transmission Gears Shift Hard or Clash When Clutch is Fully
Disengaged. Adjust clutch control linkage and spring tension (par.
48). Make sure the transmission mounting bolts and units are tight
(pars. 57 and 58). Drain and fill transmission with correct lubricant
(fig. 10). If the above methods fail to cure the symptom, refer to a
higher authority.

36. WHEELS AND CHAINS.

a. Transmission Countershaft and Rear Wheel Sprockets Show
Excessive Wear on One Side of Teeth. Adjust the position of the
rear wheel axle to aline the rear wheel sprocket with the transmission
sprocket (par. 60). If they cannot be alined, the frame is out of
alinement, and the trouble must be referred to a higher authority.

b. Chains Produce Grinding Noise with Engine Idling and
Vehicle on Rear Stand. If either chain is adjusted too tight,
adjust to proper tension (pars. 59 and 60). Examine both chains for
presence of dirt and grit. If dirty, clean and lubricate them (par. 20
c (10)). If either chain is dry, adjust chain oilers (par. 61).
Badly worn chains and sprockets will cause this symptom; the worn parts
must be replaced (pars. 62 and 63).

c. Front Chain Dry and/or Red (Rusty) in Appearance. The
chain in this condition has not been receiving enough lubrication.70
Adjust chain oiler (par. 61). If the chain is damaged from lack of oil,
replace (par. 62).

d. Rough or Jerky Vehicle Operation at Low Speed. Chains
are too loose. Adjust (pars. 59 and 60).

e. Excessive Side Play at Rim of Front Wheel. Adjust
bearing cones (par. 126). If the cones and or hub races are badly worn,
replace wheel (par. 125).

f. Front Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating Noise
(not in brake). The wheel bearings are defective. Replace wheel
(par. 125).

g. Rear Wheel Has Excessive Side Play at Rim of Wheel.
The hub bearings are defective. Replace wheel (par. 127).

h. Rear Wheel Has Side Play in Excess of 0.010 inch on
Axle. The thrust washers of hub are worn or damaged. Replace wheel
(par. 127).

i. Rear Wheel Spinning Test Produces Grinding, Grating
Noise (chain removed). Tighten wheel mounting screws. If
this does not correct noise, replace wheel (par. 127).

37. BRAKES.

a. Rear Brake Does Not Hold When Foot Pedal Is Depressed.
If the brake linings are wet, operate the vehicle and apply a slight
pressure to the brake pedal to dry out linings. After drying the
linings adjust brake rod length (par. 96 b). If the brake operating
lever stands ahead of the vertical position with brake applied, or the
brake does not hold, replace the defective brake shoes (par. 96).

b. Rear Brake Squeaks or Chatters When Used. Tighten
side plate sleeve nut, if it is loose. Adjust shoe position (par.
96). If the operating camshaft and/or side cover bearing is worn,
replace the assembly (par. 96). If the brake shoe spring is defective,
replace (par. 96). If the lining on the brake shoes is loose, worn,
or defective, replace shoes (par. 96). If the brake drum is worn or
damaged, replace the brake drum and sprocket assembly (par. 96).

c. Rear Brake Drags (vehicle on rear stand). Adjust
linkage (par. 96). If it still drags, equalize shoe assemblies, and
adjust linkage (par. 96).

d. Front Brake Does Not Hold When Hand Lever Is Operated.
Adjust brake control (par. 97). If brakes are wet, operate vehicle a
short distance with slight pressure on brake lever to dry out linings.
If brake does not hold, replace shoes (par. 97).

e. Front Brake Drags. Adjust control linkage (par. 97).
If brake still drags, equalize shoes and readjust control linkage (par.
97).

f. Front Brake Action Rough and/or Chatters. Adjust
control linkage assembly (par. 97). If malfunction continues, examine
brake71 shoes, shoe spring, camshaft bearing and side cover bearing.
Replace any defective parts or assemblies (par. 97).

38. STEERING.

a. Motorcycle Pulls to One Side. Inspect and correct
alinement of rear wheel (par. 60). If the front forks are bent or
twisted, replace (par. 98). If trouble persists, refer to higher
authority.

b. Motorcycle Weaves from Side to Side. Adjust steering
damper to suit speed and road conditions. If this fails, inflate tires
to correct pressure. Make sure rear wheel mounting screws are tight. If
the steering head bearings are too tight, weaving will result. Check
the steering head bearings (par. 98), and adjust if necessary.

c. Motorcycle Shimmies at High Speed. Inflate tires
to correct pressure. Adjust steering damper to suit speed and road
conditions. If the tire tread is unevenly worn, and shifting tires does
not correct the condition, replace the defective casings. Make sure the
axle nuts are tight. If the rocker plate studs and bushings are badly
worn, or the fork springs are broken, replace (par. 98).

72

39. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.

a. Description. This 2‐cylinder, V‐type, air‐cooled
gasoline engine of L‐head design operates on the 4‐stroke, 4‐cycle
principle. Flywheel and connecting rod assemblies operate on roller
bearings. Engine is fitted with low‐expansion aluminum alloy,
cam‐ground, horizontally slotted pistons and with deep‐finned aluminum
cylinder heads. As viewed from left side of vehicle (drive chain side),
rotation of engine is counterclockwise.

b. Lubrication system is of dry‐sump type, in which oil supply
is maintained in a tank away from engine. Oil is circulated by a
supply feed pump and a scavenger, return pump. This oil circulating
system plays a most important part in cooling the engine as well as
lubricating it.

c. Data.

40. TUNE‐UP.

a. Tune‐up consists of making correct adjustment to valve
tappets, circuit breaker ignition points, spark plug electrodes:
checking and correcting ignition timing; draining and flushing
carburetor bowl; cleaning and flushing gasoline strainer; cleaning
muffler outlet, servicing air cleaner, and adjusting carburetor.

(1) Valve tappet adjustment (par. 43).

(2) Circuit breaker point adjustment (par. 84).

73

(3) Spark plug service (par. 83).

(4) Timing ignition (par. 86).

(5) Draining carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(6) Cleaning fuel strainer (par. 72).

(7) Cleaning muffler outlet requires freeing outlet of carbon deposits,
caked dirt, oil, etc., with blade of screwdriver, or other suitable
tool. Do not enlarge outlet size when cleaning.

(8) Servicing air cleaner (par. 76).

(9) Adjusting carburetor (par. 68).

A—CYLINDER BRACKET SPACERS AND WASHERS
B—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME BOLT
C—CYLINDER UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET
D—SPARK CABLE CLIP
E—CYLINDER BRACKET BOLTS
F—OIL RETURN PIPE CONNECTION HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHERS

RA PD 315711
Figure 15—Disassembly for Head Gasket Replacement

41. REPLACEMENT OF HEAD GASKET (fig. 15).

a. Removal. Refer to figure 15, illustrating necessary
parts and units to be removed to perform this operation.

(1) Remove instrument panel cover (par. 119).

(2) Remove gasoline tank and oil tank (par. 107).

(3) Remove cylinder head bracket to frame lug bolt: this will free
clamp which secures front spark plug cable. Pay particular attention
to shim washers placed between cylinder head bracket and frame lug, as
these washers must be replaced when installing cylinder head.

(4) Remove spark plug, or plugs.

74

(5) Remove cylinder head bolts, using head bolt wrench 41–W–1525. NOTE:
On some 42 WLA models, plain washers (0.095–inch thick), in addition
to regular (heavy) cylinder head bolt washers, were used to prevent
cylinder head bolts from bottoming.

(6) Perform carbon removal (head only). Refer to paragraph 42.

b. Installing Gasket and Head (fig. 15).

(1) Clean top of cylinder. Apply a light application of grease or oil
to both sides of gasket before locating on cylinder head. Place head on
cylinder.

(2) Install head bolts, using heavy washers (also 0.095–inch thick
plain washers, if any were removed). If in doubt as to use of
0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers, measure depth
of bolt holes in cylinder head. Head having hole depth of 31/32 inch
must use the 0.095–inch thick washers in addition to regular washers.
Head having bolt hole depth of 1¹⁄₁₆ inch does not require the
0.095–inch thick washers.

(3) Install cylinder frame bracket with the two long bolts, special
(spool‐shaped) spacers, and flat washers. The spacers go between
cylinder heads and frame bracket. A flat washer goes under the head of
each long cylinder bolt, above the bracket; some engines may have flat
washers between the spacers and the bracket.

(4) Tighten head bolts evenly to ensure a tight cylinder head joint.
Use head bolt wrench 41–W–1525, first turning down bolts just snug,
then tightening each bolt ¹⁄₈ to ¼ turn at a time, until all are securely
tightened. If torque wrench is available, tighten head bolts to 60
foot‐pounds minimum, 65 foot‐pounds maximum tension when engine is cold.

42. CARBON REMOVAL.

a. At time cylinder head is removed for gasket replacement,
carbon must be removed from head only.

43. VALVE TAPPET ADJUSTMENT (fig. 16).

a. Adjust Tappets with Engine Cold. Before loosening
valve spring covers, a light application of oil around top edge of each
cover will facilitate raising cover without damage to seal packing.

(1) Loosen valve spring covers; use tappet and valve cover wrench
41–W–3617.

(2) Before checking or adjusting tappet clearance, make sure valve is
seated and that tappet is at lowest position, by turning engine ahead
until like tappet (inlet or exhaust, whichever one is being75 adjusted)
in the other cylinder is at highest position (valve fully open). Inlet
valves are located nearest the carburetor manifold.

RA PD 310211
Figure 16—Valve Tappet Adjustment

(4) Loosen adjusting screw lock nut (“2,” fig. 16) slightly before
turning adjusting screw (fig. 16).

(5) Adjust inlet valve tappets to 0.004–inch minimum, and 0.005–inch
maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet (“1” and “4,” fig.
16). Use thickness gage to determine clearance; recheck (correcting if
necessary) clearance after lock nut has been securely tightened.

(6) Adjust exhaust valve tappets to 0.006–inch minimum, and 0.007–inch
maximum clearance between valve stems and tappet. Use thickness gage to
determine clearance; recheck (correcting if necessary) clearance after
lock nut has been securely tightened.

(7) Before turning down valve spring covers, inspect paper gasket
between each cover and tappet guide. If broken or damaged, fit a new
gasket to prevent oil leak. Turn down and securely tighten valve spring
covers.

76

RA PD 315712
Figure 17—Oil Pump Removed

77

44. REPLACEMENT OF OIL FEED PUMP (fig. 17).

a. Removal.

(1) Disconnect oil tank feed pipe at oil tank. Install nipple cap on
tank nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank. Disconnect
oil feed pipe from oil pump nipple.

(2) Oil pump is secured to engine gear case cover by one hexagon head
bolt and three nuts. Two of the nuts are extra long to provide wrench
clearance, and their location should be noted so they will be put back
where they belong when reinstalling pump. After removing screw and
nuts, remove pump. Unless a new pump gasket is available, take care
not to damage or break the old one, as this is a very special gasket
concerning both thickness and holes provided for oil channels. A
“homemade” gasket may put oiling system completely out of commission.

b. Installing Oil Pump.

(1) Clean surface of pump body mounting on gear case cover and see that
gasket is in good condition. Clean face of oil pump body.

(2) Start pump on mounting studs, turn engine slowly and press lightly
against pump until driving dogs on end of cam gear shaft line up with
and drop into driving slot in oil pump rotor.

(3) Insert hexagon‐head bolt and lock washer, and install the three
lock washers and nuts (two are long extension nuts) on pump mounting
studs. Make sure to replace the two extra long nuts on the studs from
which they were originally removed.

(4) Tighten mounting bolt and three nuts securely.

(5) Connect oil feed pipe to oil pump nipple. Remove nipple cap from
tank nipple and connect upper end of oil feed pipe to this nipple.
Tighten nipple nuts securely.

78

45. REMOVE ENGINE (figs. 18, 19, and 20).

a. A study of figures 18 and 19 will provide a good picture of
the steps necessary for engine removal. Do not attempt any short cut
methods, as this would consume more time and possibly cause damage to
parts or unit assemblies.

(1) Disconnect battery ground wire at frame lug connection on right
side of vehicle.

(2) To disconnect brake front rod from bell crank (located on right
side of rear support rod), remove cotter pin and plain washer.

(3) Loosen footboard rear support stud nut and remove footboard front
stud nut, then pull footboard outward to free right front end of safety
guard. Disconnect brake front rod at bell crank. Remove bolt which
secures front exhaust pipe clamp. Remove nut from rear support rod,
freeing stop light switch and rear end of side bar. Remove nut from
front support rod, freeing footboard and brake assembly for removal.

(4) Remove the two rear mounting bolts and drop rear end of skid plate
(fig. 37).

(5) Remove muffler (par. 81).

(6) Disconnect oil pipe from tank and install nipple cap on oil tank
feed pipe nipple to prevent oil from running out, or drain tank.
Disconnect pipe from oil pump and remove oil pipe.

(7) Disconnect spark control wire at circuit breaker lever, and free
control housing clamp at cylinder base.

(8) Disconnect brake rear rod from bell crank.

(9) Disconnect red wire and black wire from front end of relay; also
green wire from generator terminal.

(10) Remove spark plugs.

(11) Remove engine top mounting (cylinder head bracket) bracket to
frame lug bolt: this also frees front spark plug cable clamp. Pay
particular attention to shim washers (if any) between cylinder head
bracket and frame lug; these will have to be installed in the original
position.

79

(12) Remove lever bottom bolt, freeing gear shifter lever from shifter
rod.

RA PD 315713

A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

B—SPARK CONTROL WIRE AND HOUSING

C—ENGINE SPROCKET, KEY, NUT AND FRONT DRIVE CHAIN

D—ENGINE SPROCKET SHAFT

E—REAR SUPPORT ROD

F—INNER CHAIN GUARD

G—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

H—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN

J—SPARK COIL REAR TERMINAL NUT, WASHER AND SCREW

K—OUTER CHAIN GUARD

L—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

M—AIR CLEANER HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING SCREWS

N—ENGINE LEFT REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLT CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

O—REAR SUPPORT ROD EXTENDED NUT

P—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS

Q—FUEL PIPE AND STRAINER ASSEMBLY

R—ENGINE LEFT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN

S—GEAR SHIFTER AND ROD ATTACHING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

T—TANK, LOWER FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT

U—ENGINE SPROCKET NUT WRENCH

RA PD 315713B
Figure 18—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Left Side

80

RA PD 315714

A—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS AND NUTS

B—SKID PLATE

C—STOP LIGHT SWITCH

D—REAR BRAKE ROD FRONT END

E—CYLINDER BRACKET AND FRAME MOUNTING BOLT, SPACING WASHERS, SPARK CABLE CLIP AND NUT

F—ENGINE RIGHT FRONT BASE MOUNTING BOLT, CASTLE NUT, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

G—RELAY TERMINAL SCREWS AND WASHERS

H—SAFETY GUARD END

J—RIGHT FOOTBOARD, BRAKE PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

K—FRONT EXHAUST PIPE CLAMP, BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

L—EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY

M—SPARK PLUGS AND GASKETS

N—REAR SUPPORT ROD, WASHER AND NUT

O—BRAKE ROD BELLCRANK

P—ENGINE REAR BASE MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, CASTLE NUT AND COTTER PIN

Q—OIL FEED PIPE

R—VENT PIPE HOLLOW BOLT AND WASHER

S—VENT PIPE

T—OIL RETURN PIPE

RA PD 315714B
Figure 19—Disassembly for Engine Removal—Right Side

81

(13) Close fuel tank valve. Remove gasoline pipe from tank nipple and
fuel filter nipple.

(14) Disconnect throttle control wire at carburetor lever.

(15) Disconnect air intake hose connection fitting from carburetor
(four screws) and leave attached to hose. Remove air cleaner from
mounting bracket (par. 78).

RA PD 310215
Figure 20—Removing Engine

(16) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).

(17) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65).

(18) Remove two screws and locks securing inner chain guard to
crankcase.

(19) With ¹³⁄₁₆–inch deep socket wrench slipped over rear footboard
support rod stud, remove extended nut, and withdraw support rod from
right side of vehicle.

82

(20) To disconnect the circuit breaker to coil wire and shielding
ground from coil rear terminals, disconnect oil pressure signal light
wire from oil pressure switch terminal. It will be necessary to free
air cleaner mounting bracket and swing it outward, to gain access to
coil rear shielding ground terminal.

(21) Engine mounting bolts are secured by cotter pins and castle nuts.
Remove all engine mounting bolts, except the one under generator; this
bolt cannot be removed without removing generator; merely push it up
far enough to clear frame engine lug when engine is removed from frame.

(22) Lift and remove engine from right side of frame.

46. INSTALL ENGINE (figs. 18, 19, and 20).

a. Installing the engine is generally the reverse of the procedure
followed in engine removal. Pay close attention to the following
procedure because checking and adjustment of controls and other items
is necessary to satisfactory vehicle operation.

(1) Lift engine into frame from right side of vehicle. Make sure that
mounting bolt under generator is raised to clear frame engine lug.

(2) Pass remaining three engine mounting bolts up from under side of
frame lugs through crankcase lugs: install plain washers and castle
nuts. Fit plain washer and castle nut on mounting bolt under generator.
Securely tighten all four castle nuts and lock with cotter pins.

(3) Connect circuit breaker to coil wire. Connect wire to coil rear
terminal and ground shielding on coil case terminal.

(4) Connect oil pressure switch wire to switch terminal.

(5) Pass rear footboard support rod through frame lug from right side
of vehicle and install the extended ¹³⁄₁₆–inch nut.

(6) Secure inner chain guard by attaching the two screws and locks
mounting inner chain guard to engine base. Drift edge of locks into
screw slots for security.

(7) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain together. See that
engine shaft is clean, sprocket taper clean, and that key is in place
before tightening sprocket nut. Drift nut tight, using hammer on wrench.

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Connect hose and fitting assembly by installing two bolts, washers,
and nuts securing air cleaner to frame bracket; then install four
screws securing hose fitting to carburetor. NOTE: If cleaner frame
bracket was loosened and shifted to gain access to coil rear terminals,
securely mount bracket before installing air cleaner assembly.

83

(10) Connect throttle control wire to carburetor lever. Make sure that
throttle closes fully when right grip is turned outward; and that
throttle opens fully when grip is turned inward.

(11) Install fuel pipe. Securely tighten union nuts on tank and fuel
strainer nipples. Open fuel supply valve and check connections for
leaks.

(12) Connect gear shifter lever end to gear shifter rod by tightening
bolt and nut.

(13) Attach engine top mounting bracket (cylinder head bracket) to
frame lug, exercising care in installing required number of thin shims,
together with clamp for front spark plug cable, to fill space between
bracket and frame lug before tightening bolt nut. NOTE: Frame lug must
be free from paint or grease to make clean “electrical” connection with
plated shims and mounting bracket for adequate radio bonding.

(14) Before installing spark plugs, inspect for cleanliness and correct
electrode adjustment. Service if necessary (par. 83). Replace gaskets
to ensure tight joints.

(15) Connect red and black wires to relay: connect green wire to
generator terminal marked “SWITCH.” Refer to wiring diagram (fig. 73).

(16) Attach rear brake rod to bell crank. Install plain washer and
secure with cotter pin.

(17) Connect spark control wire to circuit breaker lever and secure
control wire housing clamp under cylinder base nut. Make sure that
spark advances fully (lever inward) when control grip (left handle
bar) is turned inward, and that spark retards fully when control grip
is turned outward. Make needed adjustment at control wire and lever
connection.

(18) Remove nipple cap from tank oil pipe nipple (if one was used) and
connect oil feed pipe, securely tightening union nuts at tank and oil
pump.

(19) Position exhaust pipe and muffler assembly and attach rear hanger
frame bolt, washer, and nut. Secure muffler front mounting bracket
bolt, but do not tighten nut until skid plate rear bracket is located
on this bolt.

(20) Lift rear end of skid plate, secure rear mounting bracket and
muffler front mounting bracket with bolt, washer, and nut. Attach skid
plate left side bracket, tightening support rod nut and bracket bolt
and nut.

(21) Install right side footboard, sidebar, and brake pedal assembly.
Install stop light switch bracket on rear support rod before placing
lock washer and tightening nut. Attach front exhaust pipe clamp to
sidebar. Install lock washer, and tighten sidebar front84 support rod
nut. Attach right end of front safety guard to sidebar with footboard
front support stud. Replace lock washer, and tighten nut. Also tighten
footboard rear support stud nut. Connect stop light switch control to
brake foot pedal.

(22) Attach brake front rod to bell crank; fit plain washer and secure
with cotter pin.

(23) Connect battery ground wire to frame lug on right side of vehicle.

b. Check instrument panel signal lights for normal indications,
and see that oil is in tank before starting engine.

85

47. DESCRIPTION (fig. 21).

a. Clutch is of simple multiple‐dry‐disk type, having two steel
disks and three lined disks, one of which provides spring action within
disk pack to “cushion” clutch operation.

48. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT (figs. 22, 23, 24, and 25).

a. If clutch adjustment is correctly maintained, clutch will
cause very little trouble. Ease of gear shifting and service life
of transmission gear shifter clutch dogs depend largely upon full
disengagement of the clutch. Clutch adjustment is in two parts; namely,
control linkage and spring tension. Do not adjust clutch spring tension
before correcting control adjustment.

b. Clutch Control Linkage (fig. 22). Operation of foot
pedal, control cable, and clutch release lever actuates the push rod
through hollow transmission shaft, disengaging or engaging clutch at
will. Correct adjustment to control cable and release lever must be
made before push rod adjustment is made.

c. Clutch Control Adjustment (figs. 23, 24, 25, and 26).

(1) Adjusting Cable Length. With clutch in fully disengaged
position (foot pedal heel down) the clutch release lever must clear the
countershaft sprocket cover stud and/or nut by ¹⁄₁₆ inch. Should clutch
release lever strike sprocket cover and nut, clutch push rod movement
is restricted, and clutch cannot be fully disengaged. Length of control
cable must be adjusted to obtain ¹⁄₁₆–inch clutch release lever and
sprocket cover stud and/or nut clearance. To lengthen or shorten clutch
control cable, cable adjustable end must be removed from foot pedal
stud (figs. 23 and 24). With foot pedal in forward (toe down) position,
remove cotter pin and washer retaining cable end. Release other end
of cable from notch in clutch release lever by pressing release lever
inward and lifting cable end out of notch. Rock the foot pedal to rear
(heel down) position and work cable adjustable end off foot pedal stud.
Loosen lock nut and turn cable end to right (clockwise) to shorten
cable; turn to left (counter‐clockwise) to lengthen cable. Tighten
lock nut, install cable end on foot pedal stud; install washer and
cotter pin, and install other end of cable in clutch release lever
notch.

86

A—CLUTCH HUB COMPLETE, WITH LINER, BEARING, STUDS, ETC.

B—HUB DISK LINING.

C—LINING RIVET (6 USED).

D—PIN (7 USED).

E—STUD.

F—SPROCKET COMPLETE WITH DISK SPLINE RING.

G—LINED DISKS (2 USED).

H—PLAIN STEEL DISKS (2 USED).

J—SPRUNG STEEL DISK WITH ONE LINING.

K—RELEASING DISK (WITH PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW AND ADJUSTING SCREW).

L—CLUTCH SPRINGS (10 USED).

M—STUD NUT LOCKING WASHER (3 USED).

N—STUD NUT (3 USED).

O—SPRING COMPRESSION COLLAR.

P—PUSH ROD ADJUSTING SCREW.

Q—ADJUSTING SCREW LOCK NUT.

R—RETAINING PLATE LOCK RING (3 USED).

S—BEARING RETAINING PLATE.

T—60 7/32–INCH STEEL BALLS.

U—BALL BEARING RETAINER.

RA PD 310218
Figure 21—Clutch, Disassembled

87

RA PD 310219
Figure 22—Clutch Control Linkage

RA PD 310220
Figure 23—Clutch Lever and Stud Nut Clearance

88

RA PD 310221
Figure 24—Control Cable Length Adjustment

RA PD 315715
Figure 25—Clutch Adjustments

(2) Adjusting Clearance of Clutch Release Lever and Push Rod
(fig. 25). With clutch release lever and sprocket cover stud clearance
correctly adjusted (step (1) above), clutch release lever must have
between ¹⁄₈–inch and ¼–inch free play at end where89 control cable engages
lever notch (fig. 25). This free play ensures a fully engaged clutch
without pressure on clutch release bearing. Adjustment is made by means
of push rod adjusting screw located in clutch outer disk. Remove two
screws which secure inspection hole cover to chain guard (fig. 25). If
clutch release lever has less than ¹⁄₈–inch free play at end of cable,
loosen push rod adjusting screw lock nut and turn push rod adjusting
screw to the left (counter‐clockwise) to increase amount of free play.
If clutch release lever has more than ¼–inch free play at end of cable,
turn adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) to decrease amount of
free play. Tighten lock nut after correct adjustment is obtained.
Replace inspection hole cover. CAUTION: If end of clutch release
lever has no free play as explained above, clutch will not hold when
fully engaged. If too much free play is allowed, clutch will drag when
disengaged; consequently, transmission gears will shift hard, clash,
and eventually become damaged.

RA PD 310223
Figure 26—Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension

d. Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension (fig. 26). If clutch
slips (does not hold when starting engine or with vehicle in operation)
after controls have been correctly adjusted (step c (1) and (3)
above), spring tension must be increased. NOTE: Do not increase spring
tension any more than actually required to make clutch hold.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Bend down lock lips to free the three clutch adjusting nuts.

(3) Turning nuts to right (clockwise) increases clutch spring tension.
Tighten (turn to right) all three adjusting nuts, one‐half turn at a
time, until clutch holds. Test clutch after each half‐turn90 of the
three adjusting nuts by cranking engine. Usually a clutch that holds
without any noticeable slippage when cranking engine, also holds on the
road.

(4) After clutch spring tension adjustment is made, bend up nut lock
lips to secure adjusting nuts. Replace any broken or badly damaged
locks.

(5) When a new clutch is originally assembled and adjusted, the
distance from the inner edge of shoulder on spring collar to face of
outer (releasing) disk is 1–3/32 inches (fig. 27). In any case, do
not tighten the three adjusting nuts to the point where inner edge
of shoulder of spring collar is closer than ⅞ inch to face of outer
(releasing) disk. If compressed more, clutch probably cannot be fully
disengaged.

RA PD 310224
Figure 27—Measuring Distance Between Spring Collar and Disk

(7) If clutch still does not hold, after correct control and spring
tension adjustments have been made, clutch “pack” assembly must be
replaced (par. 49).

(8) After making clutch spring tension adjustment, replace outer front
chain guard (par. 102).

49. REMOVAL OF DISKS (figs. 28, 29, and 30).

a. Clutch disks can be removed for inspection, cleaning, and/or
replacing. Springs can be removed for checking and/or replacing91
without disturbing sprocket, which is integral with clutch shell. It is
advisable to remove releasing (outer) disk, springs, and collar as an
assembly because it is difficult to correctly aline, hold in place, and
reassemble springs in this unit. If springs show signs of overheating,
and appear to be “set,” they should be removed, measured, and replaced
if necessary (par. 50).

RA PD 315716
Figure 28—Removing Spring and Outer Disk Assembly

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut. Place a large flat
washer, approximately ¹⁄₈–inch thick, 1¾–inch in diameter with a ⅜–inch
center hole, over push rod adjusting screw, and replace adjusting screw
lock nut just removed (fig. 28). Tighten adjusting screw lock nut
against large washer until the three clutch spring adjusting nuts are
free. Bend nut lock down, remove the three adjusting nuts, and withdraw
releasing (outer) disk and spring assembly as one unit. Remaining lined
and plain steel disks can now be removed from sprocket and clutch shell
unit without further disassembly (fig. 30). NOTE: At time lined and
plain disks are removed from shell, observe relative position of each
disk in order of correct assembly.

50. INSPECTION OF DISKS AND SPRINGS.

a. Worn Disk Liners. When disk liners are worn down flush
(or nearly flush) with rivet heads, disk and liner assembly must be
replaced.

92

RA PD 315717
Figure 29—Outer Assembly Removed, Exposing Clutch Disks

RA PD 315718
Figure 30—Clutch Disks, Removed

93

b. Loose Liner Rivets. If disk liner rivets are loose,
replace disk and liner assembly with like assembly in new or good order.

c. Oil‐soaked Disk Liners. If lined disks are not badly
worn, but are oil‐soaked, wash them thoroughly in clean gasoline and
dry with air or heat.

d. Shrunken or Weak Springs. If clutch has been badly
overheated as a result of slippage, springs may be found in shrunken or
weakened condition. Assuming disk liners are not badly worn, weakened
springs are indicated when the three spring tension nuts have been
tightened to make the clutch hold until the distance between spring
collar and releasing (outer) disk is ⅞ inch. If shrunken or weak
springs are suspected, remove them for inspection.

(1) To remove springs, remove push rod adjusting screw lock nut,
freeing spring collar and the 10 springs from the releasing (outer)
disk assembly.

(2) Measure springs for free length. Free length of new clutch springs
is approximately 1½ inches (they may vary plus or minus 1/32 inch).
Old springs found to be shrunk ¹⁄₈ inch (total free length of spring
is 1⅜ inch or less) must be replaced with new springs. NOTE: Before
replacing springs, select 10 springs that do not vary more than 1/32
inch to make up the assembly.

(3) Assembling Releasing Disk, Springs, and Spring Collar.
Place the 10 springs upright on releasing disk to centrally locate each
of the 10 stud holes. Place spring collar (flanged edge down) over ends
of springs, locating the collar plate “dimples” in ends of 7 of the
springs. Place the large washer over push rod adjusting screw; tighten
adjusting screw nut, and compress springs lightly. Turn assembly over
and observe alinement of springs and disk holes. If necessary, insert a
⅜–inch rod through holes to aline springs. Tighten down adjusting screw
nut; assembly is now ready for complete clutch assembly.

51. INSTALLATION OF DISKS (figs. 30, 29, and 28).

a. It is important when assembling a clutch to start with a
lined disk. Install the two steel disks so that the antirattle devices
are staggered on splines in the shell, and the “sprung” disk (lined
on one side) is the last of the pack, its lined side facing the steel
disk. Before installing disks, see that bearing retaining plate lock
rings (“R,” fig. 21) are in place on the short studs, and are tight
against the retaining plate. This is to prevent noise in the clutch.

(1) Install one of the two lined disks on clutch hub studs first.

(2) Next, engage one of the two steel disks with the splines within the
clutch shell, with side stamped “OUT” facing outward.

(3) Install the remaining lined disk on the clutch hub studs.

94

(4) Engage remaining steel disk with shell splines with “OUT” side
facing outward.

(5) Install “sprung” (one side lined) steel disk, lined side inward, on
clutch hub studs.

(6) It will be noted that the three long, threaded‐end, clutch hub
studs are not spaced an equal distance apart. It will also be noted
that the three holes (keyhole shaped) in the spring collar are not
spaced equidistantly. Therefore, when installing releasing disk and
spring assembly on clutch hub studs, the three threaded studs and holes
in spring collar must be alined. Install assembly on studs, replace
the three nut locks, replace the three adjusting nuts, and tighten all
three evenly until the distance between shoulder of spring collar and
face of releasing disk is 1–1/32 inch (fig. 27).

(7) Remove the large washer and replace push rod adjusting screw lock
nut. Do not attempt adjustment of clutch release lever and push rod
adjusting screw until outer front chain guard and footboard have been
installed.

RA PD 315719
Figure 31—Removing Clutch Releasing Bearing Assembly

95

(8) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(9) Check controls and clutch adjustment. If necessary, correct
according to paragraph 48.

52. REPLACEMENT OF CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (fig. 31).

a. Clutch release lever acts against a thrust bearing and push
rod assembly which actuates clutch releasing disk.

b. Remove Clutch Release Bearing. Engage clutch fully
(foot pedal toe down) and disengage clutch control cable end from
slotted end of clutch release lever.

(1) Loosen rear chain guard by removing cap screw which retains rear
chain oil pipe and secures front end of rear drive chain guard to
transmission countershaft sprocket cover.

(2) Remove the four nuts which secure sprocket cover to transmission.

(3) Remove filler plug.

(4) Hold down starter crank with screwdriver.

(5) Remove sprocket cover and clutch release lever assembly. It may be
necessary to pry cover off studs. With cover removed, clutch release
bearing is exposed.

(6) Withdraw clutch release bearing and push rod assembly from
transmission shaft.

c. Install Clutch Release Bearing.

(1) Insert push rod with clutch release bearing assembly into
transmission shaft hole, as far as rod will go. See that bearing is
clean and well greased.

(2) Install sprocket cover. Securely tighten the four nuts.

(3) Install cap screw which secures rear chain guard end and chain
oiler pipe clamp to sprocket cover.

(4) Engage clutch control cable end in slotted end of clutch release
lever.

(5) Check clutch release lever for free play at end of cable.

96

53. DESCRIPTION.

a. Transmission has three speeds: low, second, and high, and
is of the constant‐mesh, non‐selective type. High gear is direct
drive. Since “dogs” on gear shifter clutches are used to engage
transmission gears, it is of great importance that vehicle clutch is
correctly adjusted. Clutch must be fully disengaged when shifting
gears, to prevent clashing of gears, and possible damage to the shifter
clutch “dogs” and transmission gears. It is also important that gear
shifter control linkage be kept in correct adjustment to ensure full
engagement of shifter clutch driving dogs in all positions, thus
preventing possible damage caused by dogs jumping out of engagement
under driving load. Close fitting and needle roller bearings, within
the transmission, necessitate use of engine oil (seasonal grade) in
transmission case for adequate lubrication.

54. CONTROL LINKAGE (fig. 32).

a. Transmission Shifted to Adjust Front Drive Chain. The
transmission is located to receive power from front (engine) drive
chain and transmit power through rear drive chain to rear wheel, and
is movable on its mounting for adjustment of the front (engine) drive
chain. When front (engine) drive chain is adjusted, transmission gear
shifter control linkage is affected. Therefore, after each front drive
chain adjustment, gear shifter control linkage must be checked, and, if
necessary, correctly adjusted to ensure proper gear shifting with full
engagement of the gear shifter clutch driving “dogs” as well as prevent
transmission from jumping out of gear under load.

b. Checking Gear Shifter Control Linkage. Before making
adjustment to gear shifter control linkage, make the following checks:
See that all linkage points from transmission gear shifter lever to
gear shifter hand lever are well oiled and free‐working. Check hand
lever pivot bolt nut for tightness. Observe whether there is binding
or interference with shifter rod at any point in the shifting range;
this sometimes results from a bent snifter rod. Check whether97 or not
shifter rod is correctly adjusted so that when hand lever is moved to
any gear position in tank shifter guide, transmission lever moves to
the proper position to fully engage shifter clutch dogs and shifter cam
spring plunger in cam‐locating notch (inside transmission).

RA PD 310229
Figure 32—Adjusting Gear Shifter Rod

c. Adjusting Gear Shifter Control Linkage (fig. 32).

(1) Set hand lever in “N” (neutral) position in shifter guide.

(2) Remove nut and bolt to disconnect shifter rod from hand lever.

(3) With slight backward and forward movement of shifter rod, carefully
“feel” transmission lever into exact position where shifter cam spring
plunger (inside transmission) seats fully in cam‐locating notch.

(4) Next, see that hand lever is in exact “N” (neutral) position in
tank shifter guide.

98

(5) Readjust length of shifter rod by loosening rod end lock nut, and
turning rod end (onto or off rod as necessary) until its bolt hole
lines up with bolt hole in hand lever.

(6) Replace bolt and tighten nut.

(7) Check Adjustment. It is advisable to shift hand lever
into “L” (low) and “S” (second) gear positions and check shifter rod
adjustment to be sure of having best all‐round adjustment.

(8) When shifter clutches become worn or damaged to the extent of
jumping out of engagement under driving load, even though shifter
control linkage is correctly adjusted, transmission must be removed and
referred to higher authority for service.

55. REPLACEMENT OF FOOT STARTER CRANK.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove starter crank clamp bolt nut and remove bolt from crank.

(2) Pull starter crank off squared shaft.

b. Install. In installing foot starter crank, notch (for
clamp‐bolt clearance) must be in upward position in squared shaft to
put return spring tension on crank.

(1) Use a ⁵⁄₈–inch, open‐end wrench and turn square shaft
counterclockwise until bolt slot is upward. Hold shaft in this position
and press starter crank onto shaft until clamping bolt can be inserted.

(2) Insert clamp bolt with bolt head toward rear wheel (crank in upward
position) to provide clearance when starter crank is operated.

(3) Fit lock washer and nut and tighten nut securely.

56. REPLACEMENT OF STARTER CRANK SPRING (fig. 33).

a. Starter crank spring fits rather snugly behind rear edge of
countershaft sprocket cover; however, it can be removed and installed
without removing sprocket cover.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).

(2) With the blade of a screwdriver or with pliers, pry hooked end of
spring off stud. NOTE: If spring is broken, this operation will not
be necessary. Pull on spring end, at same time prying spring free of
sprocket cover so as to pull spring off square shaft.

c. Install.

(1) Turn squared shaft so that clamp bolt notch is in bottom position.
Engage square hole in spring on shaft with the hooked spring end to
rear, in line with starter spring stud. Work spring onto99 shaft, prying
it to rear to clear sprocket cover. Press all the way on squared shaft.

RA PD 315720
Figure 33—Removing Starter Crank Spring

(2) Hook end of spring in place on spring stud.

(3) Install foot starter crank (par. 55).

57. REMOVE TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).

a. Transmission and clutch are assembled in one unit and
must be removed and installed together. To make sure trouble is in
transmission,100
101 check clutch adjustment (par. 48) and transmission
control linkage (par. 54) before replacing a faulty unit.

RA PD 315721

A—TOOL BOX AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

B—BATTERY

C—BATTERY BOX REAR MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS, FITTINGS AND NUTS

D—BATTERY BOX ASSEMBLY AND COVER

E—BATTERY BOX FRONT MOUNTING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUT

F—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

G—FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTING SCREW

H—TRANSMISSION MOUNTING STUD NUTS AND WASHERS

J—REAR CHAIN OILER PIPE

K—REAR CHAIN GUARD FRONT MOUNTING BOLT AND WASHERS

L—MUFFLER ASSEMBLY AND ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS AND NUTS

M—REAR BRAKE ROD ASSEMBLY, WASHER AND COTTER PIN

N—REAR CHAIN GUARD

O—REAR BRAKE CLEVIS PIN, WASHERS AND COTTER PIN

RA PD 315721B
Figure 34—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Right Side

b. Remove.

(1) Drop rear end of skid plate (par. 111).

(2) Remove front chain guard (par. 102).

(3) Remove oil bath air cleaner and mounting bracket (par. 80). Lower
bracket bolt also secures clutch cable tube to frame tube bracket on
left side.

(4) Remove engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).

(5) Remove the two mounting screws and locks in engine case to free
inner front chain guard.

(6) Remove tool box from mounting bracket (par. 106). Remove bracket
from frame.

(7) Remove rear brake rod (par. 96).

(8) Remove rear drive chain (par. 63).

(9) Remove rear drive chain guard (par. 102). Remove rear chain oiler
pipe after disconnecting at oil pump.

(10) Remove battery box (par. 105).

(11) Remove nut, washer, and bolt securing clutch tube assembly bracket
to frame bracket on right side of vehicle. Disengage clutch operating
cable end from end of clutch release lever and remove cable and tube
assembly.

(12) Remove gear shifter rod by disconnecting at hand shifter lever and
at transmission gear shifter lever.

(13) Remove the three transmission mounting stud nuts, then remove lock
washers and large plain washers (located under frame bracket), and lift
transmission sufficiently to permit removal of front chain adjusting
screw.

(14) Loosen upper U‐bolts on ignition coil mounting, then remove the
lower U‐bolt nuts and shift coil on frame tube as far as possible
toward the front.

(15) Remove transmission and clutch assembly from vehicle by lifting
complete unit sufficiently to free mounting studs from frame bracket;
then rotate top of transmission backward about ¼ turn (fig. 34) and
remove unit from left side of frame (fig. 35).

58. INSTALL TRANSMISSION (figs. 34 and 35).

a. Install from Left Side. Working from left side of
frame, tilt top of transmission backward, and as unit passes into
position, rotate top forward, until unit is squarely in position and
mounting studs pass through slots in frame mounting bracket.

102

(1) Shift ignition coil mounting back into correct position and tighten
U‐bolt nuts.

RA PD 315722
Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal from Left Side of Vehicle

A—LEFT FOOTBOARD, CLUTCH PEDAL AND SIDEBAR ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING NUTS AND WASHERS

B—ENGINE SPROCKET, NUT, KEY AND FRONT CHAIN

C—INNER CHAIN GUARD MOUNTING SCREWS AND LOCKS

D—INNER CHAIN GUARD

E—TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

F—OUTER CHAIN GUARD

G—OUTER CHAIN GUARD REAR MOUNTING BOLT, WASHER, SPRING, NUT AND COTTER PIN

H—AIR CLEANER AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

J—AIR CLEANER BRACKET UPPER MOUNTING BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

K—SPARK COIL LOWER MOUNTING U‐BOLT NUTS AND WASHERS

L—CLUTCH CABLE AND HOUSING ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS

M—GEAR SHIFTER ROD ASSEMBLY WITH ATTACHING BOLT, WASHERS, PIN AND NUT

RA PD 315722B
Legend for Figure 35—Disassembly for Transmission Removal
from Left Side of Vehicle

103

(2) Install front chain adjusting screw. Lift transmission to engage
screw in frame notch.

(3) Install large plain washers, lock washers, and nuts on the three
transmission mounting studs. Do not tighten.

(4) Install gear shifter rod by connecting to hand shifter lever and
transmission gear shifter lever.

(5) Install clutch operating cable and tube assembly. Connect cable
end to clutch release lever. Position tube assembly bracket to frame
bracket and install bolt, washer, and nut to hold in place.

(6) Install battery box (par. 105).

(7) Install rear drive chain guard (par. 102).

(8) Install rear drive chain (par. 63).

(9) Install rear brake rod (par. 96).

(10) Install tool box bracket and tool box (par. 106).

(11) Secure inner front chain guard to engine base by installing screw
locks and screws. After screws are tightened, drift edge of each lock
into screw slot for security.

(12) Install engine sprocket and front drive chain (par. 65).

(13) If necessary, adjust front drive chain (par. 59).

(14) Securely tighten transmission mounting stud nuts.

104

(15) Install outer front chain guard cover (par. 102). Connect rear
chain oiler pipe to oil pump.

(16) Install air cleaner and mounting bracket, air hose, and
connections (par. 79).

(17) Lift skid plate into position and install two mounting bolts, lock
washers, and nuts.

(18) Check gear shifter control, and, if necessary, adjust linkage
(par. 54).

(19) Check rear drive chain adjustment and adjust if necessary (par.
60).

(20) Check rear brake adjustment. If necessary, adjust rear brake
linkage (par. 96).

(21) Check clutch controls and adjust if necessary (par. 48).

(22) Before operating vehicle, see that transmission oil level is up to
filler opening (vehicle standing upright).

105

59. ADJUST FRONT CHAIN (figs. 36, 37, and 38).

a. At the time front chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for
correct lubrication and, if necessary, adjust front chain oiler (par.
61).

b. Chains wear unevenly and some stretch may result, making
tight and loose sections. For this reason, engine must be turned and
chain rotated to position of least slack at the time adjustment is made.

c. A correctly adjusted front chain has ½–inch, or slightly
more, free up‐and‐down movement midway between sprockets, at inspection
hole. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest point). Chain
must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky, noisy action
and/or strike the chain guard.

d. Adjustment of front chain is made by shifting transmission on
its mounting base. This will affect adjustment of gear shifter control
linkage, clutch control linkage, and rear chain.

e. How to Adjust Front Chain.

(1) Remove inspection hole cover by removing screws and lifting cover
from front outer chain guard, exposing chain (fig. 36).

(2) Obtain tightest chain position by rotating chain to position of
least slack. Test amount of slack by lifting and depressing chain with
finger. Use a free up‐and‐down motion of the finger to make this test.

106

(3) Loosen the three transmission mounting stud nuts underneath
transmission mounting base. (It is not necessary to drop skid plate
to reach stud nuts (fig. 37).) Transmission can now be shifted on its
mounting base by means of adjusting screw, head of which protrudes
through notch of frame fitting, located at rear of transmission (fig.
38).

RA PD 310233
Figure 36—Front Chain Inspection Hole Cover Removed

(4) Turn adjusting screw clockwise (to the right) to move transmission
backward and tighten front chain. Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise
(to the left) to move transmission forward and loosen front chain.

(5) After moving transmission by means of adjusting screw, check front
chain adjustment; then securely tighten the three transmission mounting
stud nuts and again check chain adjustment, as tightening stud nuts
sometimes changes chain adjustment.

(6) After front chain adjustment has been made, securely tighten the
three transmission mounting stud nuts.

(7) Install front chain inspection hole cover and tighten screws.

(8) Check shifter lever control linkage adjustment (par. 54).

107

(9) Check clutch control linkage adjustment (par. 48).

RA PD 310234
Figure 37—Skid Plate Dropped to Show Location of Transmission
Mounting Nuts

RA PD 310235
Figure 38—Transmission Mounting Nuts and Chain Adjusting Screw

60. ADJUST REAR CHAIN AND ALINE REAR WHEEL (fig. 39).

a. In moving transmission backward on its mounting to tighten
front chain, the rear chain will be loosened. Rear chain must then
be adjusted by moving rear wheel backward. When rear wheel is108 moved
either forward or backward, adjustment of the rear wheel brake is
affected.

b. When checking rear chain for slack midway between the
sprockets, turn wheel and rotate chain to position of least slack. Use
free up‐and‐down movement of finger to lift chain and depress it to
determine tightest position.

RA PD 310236
Figure 39—Brake Sleeve Nut

c. At position of least slack, a correctly adjusted rear
chain has ½–inch, or slightly more, free up‐and‐down movement midway
between sprockets. Chain must never be run taut (no slack at tightest
point). Chain must never be allowed to run loose enough to cause jerky
operation and/or strike the chain guard or other chassis parts.

d. At the time rear chain adjustment is made, inspect chain for
correct lubrication and if necessary, adjust rear chain oiler (par. 61).

e. Rear chain adjustment and rear wheel alinement are both made
by means of the rear wheel adjusting screws. Therefore, adjustment109 of
either the chain or the wheel alinement can affect adjustment of the
other, making it necessary to consider both adjustments at the same
time.

(1) Remove rear axle nut and lock washer (right side of vehicle).

(2) Loosen brake sleeve nut enough to allow brake assembly to slide
backward or forward in frame mounting (fig. 39).

(3) Loosen the two (right and left side) rear wheel adjusting screw
lock nuts.

(4) Turn wheel adjusting screws clockwise (to right) to move wheel and
sprocket backward. This tightens chain. NOTE: If chain is too tight,
turn wheel adjusting screws counterclockwise (to left) so that wheel
can be shifted forward. This will loosen chain. Always turn the two
wheel adjusting screws an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel
alined.

(5) Check correct alinement of wheel by noting that tire (not tire
rim) runs approximately midway between lower rear frame tubes at the
point where tubes join transmission mounting. It is desirable to have
tire run slightly closer (not more than ¹⁄₁₆ in.) to right than to
left side lower tube. A further check of alinement is observing that
rear sprocket runs centrally in chain. CAUTION: If rear wheel is not
correctly alined, vehicle steering will be affected, and sprockets will
wear excessively on one side.

(6) With adjustment of chain and wheel alinement completed, securely
tighten wheel adjusting screw lock nuts, and brake sleeve nut: replace
axle lock washer and nut, tightening nut.

(7) Recheck adjustment of chain as tightening brake sleeve nut and axle
nut sometimes changes the chain adjustment.

(8) After tightening rear chain, rear brake may be found too tight.
Check and correct brake adjustment (par. 96).

61. CHAIN OILERS (fig. 40).

a. Both front and rear chains are automatically lubricated by
engine oil pumps. Chain oilers are adjustable and may need occasional
readjustment to meet lubrication requirements of varied operating
conditions. Chains under most operating conditions require a very small
amount of oil; therefore, chain oilers require very fine adjustment to
supply just enough oil without waste.

b. When adjusting chain oilers, it is advisable to add or remove
only one thin washer at a time and inspect chain again after vehicle
has run approximately 100 miles, to determine whether or not further
adjustment is necessary.

c. If inspection of front chain through inspection hole reveals
that chain is not getting enough oil, adjust front chain oiler as
follows:

110

(1) Add thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of front chain oiler
adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers already under head
of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

d. Evidence of too much oil on front chain requires cutting down
on chain oiler.

RA PD 310237
Figure 40—Chain Oilers

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under
head of front chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

e. If inspection reveals that rear chain is not getting enough
oil, and that oil pipe end is open, is not bent, and is directed on
chain; then the rear chain oiler must be adjusted.

111

(1) Adjust oiler by adding thin (0.002–inch thick) washer under head of
rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40). Do not remove any washers
already under head of screw.

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

f. Evidence of too much oil on rear chain (supplied by oiler)
requires cutting down on chain oiler.

(1) To adjust oiler, remove thin (0.002–inch thick) washer from under
head of rear chain oiler adjusting screw (fig. 40).

(2) To check results, refer to step b above.

g. At 1000–mile intervals, loosen both front and rear chain
oiler adjusting screws (fig. 40) two turns each. Do not remove screws.
Start and idle engine 1 minute, then tighten screws firmly, but do not
force. This operation serves to flush oiler control valves and rear
chain oiler pipe.

62. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT CHAIN.

a. A new or original duplex front chain is endless, not provided
with connecting link, and engine sprocket must be removed in order to
remove or replace chain.

b. Remove.

(1) Remove outer front chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket (par. 65). Chain can now be lifted off
clutch sprocket.

c. Install. When installing a new front chain and/or
sprocket, it may be necessary to shift transmission ahead in order to
get chain on (par. 59 e).

(1) Clean engine shaft taper and sprocket hole.

(2) Place chain on clutch sprocket teeth and install sprocket (par. 65).

(3) Check chain adjustment (par. 59).

(4) Install outer front chain guard (par. 102).

63. REPLACEMENT OF REAR CHAIN (fig. 41).

a. Remove. Support vehicle on rear stand. With
transmission in “N” (neutral) position, turn rear wheel until chain
connecting link is located on rear sprocket teeth, about straight back
from axle.

(1) Using pliers, lift split end of connecting link spring clip out of
link pin notch, taking care not to damage spring clip. Remove spring
clip from other link pin notch.

112

(2) Pull off link side plate and push link out of chain ends. Replace
connecting link and spring clip in one end of chain to prevent its loss.

RA PD 310238
Figure 41—Rear Drive Chain and Connecting Link

(3) Pull on lower half of chain, guiding upper part while it rotates
around countershaft sprocket, until removed. If a new rear chain is to
be installed, one end can be linked to the upper half end of old chain
and can be pulled onto countershaft sprocket as old chain is removed.

b. Install. When installing a new rear chain and/or
countershaft sprocket, it may be necessary to set rear wheel ahead in
order to get chain on (par. 60).

(1) Start end of chain over countershaft sprocket teeth, using starter
crank to turn sprocket. After chain end has reached front half of
sprocket, it will be necessary to guide end under sprocket and out of
sprocket cover. Center chain so that ends engage rear sprocket teeth,
back of the axle.

(2) Install connecting link, side plate and spring clip. See that open
end of spring clip is to the rear with regard to chain travel (like the
end of an arrow). If original spring clip is bent or damaged, use a new
one.

(3) Adjust rear chain (par. 60).

(4) Check rear brake adjustment (par. 96).

113

64. CHAIN REPAIR TOOL (fig 42).

a. Damaged or broken chain links can be replaced with connecting
(repair) links after bad links have been removed. To remove damaged
or broken link, push out chain side plate pins with the chain repair
tool (41–T–3320). Front chain is a double row of duplex chain; rear
chain is a single row chain. The chain tool furnished in the tool kit
is designed to accommodate both. To put a connecting link in the front
chain, it will be necessary to remove front chain guard (par. 102).

RA PD 310239
Figure 42—Chain Repair Tool in Use

b. When connecting (repair) links have been fitted to chain,
make sure that spring clips are correctly and securely locked on link
pin ends.

65. REPLACEMENT OF ENGINE SPROCKET.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove front outer chain guard (par. 102).

(2) Remove engine sprocket nut (right‐hand thread). It will be
necessary to strike wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(3) Give flat surface of engine sprocket, near outer edge, a light
but sharp rap with a hammer, being careful not to strike and damage
sprocket teeth. Take care not to lose sprocket shaft key.

b. Install. If new sprocket is being installed, it may
be necessary to shift transmission forward to get chain to fit on
sprockets (par. 59).

(1) Thoroughly clean engine shaft taper and see that key is in place.
Clean sprocket taper hole, fit front chain on sprocket teeth, and
rotate chain until keyway in sprocket lines up with key in engine
shaft. Slip sprocket onto engine shaft, install nut, and tighten114
securely. Strike wrench with a hammer to make sure sprocket nut is very
tight.

(2) Install front outer chain guard (par. 102).

66. REPLACEMENT OF COUNTERSHAFT SPROCKET.

a. Remove.

(1) Remove foot starter crank (par. 55).

(2) Remove starter crank spring (par. 56).

(3) Remove countershaft sprocket cover (par. 52).

(4) Bend back extension of sprocket nut lock.

(5) Remove sprocket retaining nut. It will be necessary to strike
wrench with a hammer to loosen nut.

(6) Give sprocket a light but sharp rap with a hammer near outer edge,
being careful not to strike the sprocket teeth, and remove sprocket
from shaft taper. Do not lose the two sprocket shaft keys.

b. Install.

(1) Clean shaft taper and taper hole in countershaft sprocket. Install
the two keys.

(2) Install sprocket on shaft. Place rear chain on sprocket before
installing sprocket cover.

(3) Examine nut lock and, if badly damaged, use a new one.

(4) Install sprocket retaining nut. Tighten by striking wrench with a
hammer. NOTE: This nut must be tight. Bend up extension of nut lock
against side of nut.

(5) It will be easier to install starter crank spring at this step to
avoid interference with sprocket cover.

(6) Install sprocket cover.

(7) Install starter crank.

115

67. GENERAL.

a. Carburetor is of the side‐outlet, plain‐tube type with a
fixed venturi. Fuel feed is by gravity from tank above. Carburetor
has two manual controls: the throttle, which is operated by the right
handle bar grip, and the choke, which is operated by a lever on the
carburetor itself. The high speed fuel supply is governed by a fixed
(non‐adjustable) jet. The idling to medium speed (30 mph) fuel supply
is governed by an adjustable (low speed) needle valve located on rear
side of carburetor body.

68. CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT (fig. 43).

a. Before attempting to adjust carburetor to correct faulty
engine performance, attention should be given other items which have
a direct bearing on and can affect carburetor adjustment as well as
engine performance.

(1) Inspect fuel tank cap and make sure air vent is not plugged.

(2) See that throttle control adjustment is correct (par. 69).

(3) See that spark control adjustment is correct (par. 88).

(4) Drain and flush carburetor bowl (par. 73).

(5) Drain and flush fuel strainer (par. 72).

(6) Inspect air cleaner to see that passage of air through cleaner
is not restricted by oil level being too high in oil cup, or by an
excessive accumulation of dirt in filter elements (par. 76).

(7) Check manifold packing nuts and carburetor mounting screws for
tightness.

(8) See that spark plugs are clean and that gaps are adjusted between
0.025 inch to 0.030 inch. If condition of spark plugs is questionable,
install new ones.

(9) Check adjustment of valve tappets (par. 43).

(10) Check compression of both cylinders (par. 29 b.) (1)

116

(11) Check condition and adjustment of circuit breaker points (par. 84).

(12) Check ignition to battery wiring connections (diagram fig. 48).

(13) See that battery is not entirely discharged by turning on lights
(tactical situation permitting) and observing brilliancy.

b. A carburetor, once correctly adjusted, should require little,
if any, readjusting. At most, it should not be necessary to adjust the
low speed needle more than one or two notches either way to correct
mixture to meet changes in weather conditions.

c. Low Speed Adjusting Needle (figs. 43 and 44).
Adjustment of this needle valve controls only idling and low speed
(up to approximately 30 mph) fuel mixture. Turn needle valve down (to
right) to make mixture leaner. Back out (to left) needle valve to make
mixture richer. Needle valve is held in any desired position by a
spring‐and‐ball plunger which engages notches in the needle adjusting
screw.

d. Complete Readjustment of Carburetor. A carburetor that
is badly out of adjustment, and/or a new carburetor just installed,
must be adjusted as follows:

(1) Turn the low speed needle valve all the way down (to right).

(2) Back needle valve out (to left) about three full turns. With needle
valve in this position, engine will start, but mixture will probably be
too rich.

(3) Start engine as follows: After choke lever has been moved to normal
open running position and engine is normally hot, correct adjustment
of needle valve by turning needle valve down (to right) one notch at a
time until mixture becomes so lean that engine misses, and is inclined
to stop: then back out (to left) needle valve 5 to 10 notches, or until
engine fires regularly with spark advanced and throttle closed (or as
nearly closed as it can be set and still have engine running at idling
speed).

(4) Adjust throttle lever stop screw (fig. 43) as necessary to make
engine idle at proper speed with throttle in fully closed position.
Turning stop screw to the right makes engine idle faster. Turning stop
screw to the left makes engine idle slower. Do not idle engine at the
slowest possible speed, because an extremely slow idling adjustment
causes hard engine starting. Changing idling speed with throttle stop
screw is likely to change the low speed fuel mixture to some extent:
therefore, it will be necessary to again check and correct the low
speed needle valve adjustment (step (3) above).

117

(5) Engine starting and all‐round carburetion will be improved with low
speed fuel adjustment slightly rich, rather than extremely lean.

RA PD 310240
Figure 43—Throttle in Fully Closed Position

RA PD 310241
Figure 44—Throttle in Fully Open Position

118

69. THROTTLE CONTROL WIRE ADJUSTMENT (figs. 43 and 44).

a. Carburetor throttle is opened and closed by means of the
right handle bar grip, operating a control wire (within a housing)
which connects to the throttle lever. Adjustment for full opening and
closing of the throttle to correspond with full inward and outward
motion of the handle bar grip is made at the junction of the control
wire end and the throttle lever connection.

b. Adjust Fully Closed Throttle (fig. 43). See that
there is about 1 inch distance between end of control wire housing and
throttle lever when in fully closed position, so that housing end does
not interfere with forward movement of throttle lever. If adjustment of
control wire housing is necessary, refer to paragraph 101. Proceed with
closed throttle adjustment.

(1) Loosen control wire clamp screw in connector block.

(2) Turn right handle bar grip outward as far as it will go: then
turn it inward slightly. Holding throttle grip in this position, move
throttle lever forward against its stop (closed position) and secure
control wire in connector block with clamp screw. Check closing of
throttle after tightening control wire set screw. If necessary, reset
the control wire in the connector block until throttle is closed with
full outward grip movement.

c. Adjust Fully Open Throttle (fig. 44). Follow
instructions under step b above, then:

(1) Turn right handle bar grip inward as far as it will go and see that
throttle lever is against its stop in fully open position. If throttle
does not open fully when grip is turned inward, reset the control wire
in the connector block to correct the adjustment.

70. CARBURETOR REMOVAL.

a. Remove Carburetor for Replacement Only.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Loosen connector block clamp screw and disconnect throttle control
wire at throttle lever.

(3) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer nipple.

(4) Loosen air cleaner hose clamp at carburetor air intake fitting, and
remove four screws and air intake fitting from carburetor.

(5) Remove the three mounting bolts (from right side of vehicle) which
secure carburetor to manifold flange. CAUTION: Take care not to damage
or lose gaskets found between carburetor flange and manifold flange,
and/or ½–inch thick steel spacer fitted between carburetor and manifold
on some models.

(6) Remove carburetor.

(7) Remove fuel strainer assembly from carburetor bowl nipple.

119

71. CARBURETOR INSTALLATION.

a. When installing carburetor be sure to fit the ½–inch thick
steel spacer (if one was originally fitted) between carburetor and
manifold flanges, with two gaskets on one side and one gasket on
the other side. Later models have a longer manifold neck, extending
carburetor farther to the left, away from cylinders, and do not need
the spacer.

(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on bowl nipple. Leave coupling nut
loose until after fuel pipe is connected.

RA PD 310242
Figure 45—Removing Fuel Strainer

(2) To install carburetor on manifold, locate carburetor flange and
two gaskets (½–inch steel spacer and gaskets if originally fitted) to
aline with holes in manifold flange, and insert and securely tighten
the three carburetor mounting screws. Use a ⁷⁄₁₆–inch socket wrench,
or a large screwdriver, to securely tighten these screws. NOTE: If
carburetor manifold is loose in manifold packing nuts (carburetor can
be lifted and manifold turns in packing nuts), tighten manifold nuts
securely, using manifold wrench (41–W–1570–10).

120

(3) Insert carburetor air intake fitting into end of air hose and mount
fitting on carburetor with the four screws. Tighten air hose clamp.

(4) Connect fuel pipe to fuel strainer nipple by tightening the union
nut and also the strainer union nut on bowl nipple.

(5) Attach throttle control wire to throttle lever connector block and
adjust (par. 69).

(6) Open fuel supply valve and observe for leaks.

(7) Adjust carburetor (par. 68).

72. FUEL STRAINER (fig. 45).

a. Cleaning.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Unscrew cap from bottom of strainer body.

(3) Lift strainer screen element with cork washer out of cap and clean
thoroughly. Remove any dirt or sediment collected in cap. NOTE: If
compressed air is not available for cleaning, gasoline from the fuel
pipe can be used for cleaning screen and cap.

(4) Install one cork washer in bottom of cap, set strainer screen
element in place, and locate the other cork washer over screen element.
Turn cap with screen element and washers onto bottom of strainer body,
handtight.

b. Remove Strainer Assembly.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Disconnect fuel feed pipe at strainer body nipple.

(3) Remove filter assembly from carburetor bowl nipple. It will be
noted that coupling nut is an integral part of the filter body assembly.

c. Install Strainer Assembly.

(1) Install fuel strainer assembly on carburetor bowl nipple. Leave
coupling nut loose until after fuel pipe is connected.

(2) Connect fuel pipe to strainer body nipple and tighten union nut.
Strainer coupling nut can now be tightened on bowl nipple.

(3) Open fuel supply valve. Inspect fuel pipe and coupling nuts for
leaks.

73. CARBURETOR BOWL CLEANING.

a. Water from fuel, water moisture, and dirt entering air
cleaner will settle in bottom of carburetor bowl and will interfere
with engine starting and carburetion. At periodic intervals bowl must
be drained. NOTE: Before draining and flushing bowl, clean fuel
strainer (par. 72).

121

(1) Support vehicle on jiffy (side) stand.

(2) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(3) Remove bowl drain screw. Let fuel, water, and dirt run out of bowl.
With drain screw still removed, open fuel supply valve (turn to left)
and leave open only a few seconds, to allow fresh gasoline to flush out
bowl.

(4) Replace bowl drain screw, taking care to avoid thread crossing. Set
screw snug, but not tight enough to strip the threads.

74. FUEL PIPE.

a. Remove.

(1) Shut off fuel supply valve.

(2) Remove pipe union nut from tank nipple. Remove pipe after
disconnecting union nut from fuel strainer body nipple.

b. Install. Fuel pipe must be installed without putting
undue twist or strain on pipe or end fittings. Therefore, bend and/or
shape pipe to “fit” between nipple connections before replacing and
drawing up on union nuts.

(1) Connect lower end of pipe to fuel filter body nipple. Do not
tighten nut.

(2) Connect upper end of pipe to tank nipple. Securely tighten this
nut. Next, tighten union nut on strainer body nipple.

122

75. DESCRIPTION.

a. Intake System. The air intake system consists of oil
bath air cleaner, connecting air hose, and carburetor intake hose
fitting. This system is located on left side of vehicle.

b. Exhaust System. The exhaust system consists of muffler
and tailpiece assembly, front exhaust pipe assembly, and rear exhaust
pipe. Exhaust pipe ends are a slip fit in cylinder exhaust ports.

76. AIR CLEANER (figs. 46 and 47).

a. General. Air cleaner should not be submerged in water,
nor should high‐pressure stream be directed into cleaner louvers (where
air enters on rear of body) when cleaning vehicle. Either water or dirt
entering air cleaner in excessive quantities will raise the oil level
in oil cup and choke off proper air supply to carburetor.

b. Service. With vehicle in normal use on hard‐surfaced
roads, clean and refill air cleaner oil cup with engine oil (seasonal
grade) at least each time engine oil tank is drained and refilled.
CAUTION: Service more frequently under dusty conditions; daily under
extremely dusty conditions. Check oil supply daily.

(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining
spring clips to remove oil cup.

(2) If oil in cup is clean, with no signs of dirt and grit in oil or
cup, but the oil level is below the indicated level mark, add engine
oil (seasonal grade) to bring level up to mark. NOTE: If oil and cup
are dirty, empty out oil and wash out cup with dry‐cleaning solvent.
Refill with clean engine oil (seasonal grade) to indicated level mark.

(3) Before installing oil cup make sure that the oil cup gasket is in
place and in good condition.

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(4) Check baffle plate thumb screw for tightness.

RA PD 310243
Figure 46—Air Cleaner Oil Cup Removed

(5) Install oil cup, making sure that retaining spring clips are fully
engaged in lip of oil cup and hold oil cup securely to cleaner body.

(6) Oil bath air cleaners on earlier models are of “round” type, oil
cup being secured to body with a metal clamp band and thumb screw. When
oil cup is removed on this type of cleaner, the baffle plate will come
out with the cup. Make sure that baffle plate is correctly installed
and that gasket is in place when installing cup.

c. Maintenance (fig. 47). The rectangular‐type oil bath
air cleaner is provided with two filter elements, retained in filter
body by means of the baffle plate. If daily check reveals excessive
accumulation of dirt and grit in oil and cup, filter elements must be
removed and cleaned. NOTE: Check several times daily under extremely
dusty or sandy conditions.

(1) Hold oil cup with one hand and release (unlatch) oil cup retaining
spring clips; remove cup.

(2) Unscrew baffle plate thumb screw and remove baffle plate.

(3) Filter elements may “bind” in cleaner body. If so, rap side of body
with hand to loosen them; or, if necessary, withdraw elements from body
with pliers or a hooked wire.

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(4) Check for presence and condition of gasket above the two filter
elements (in filter body); also for oil cup gasket.

RA PD 310244
Figure 47—Air Cleaner, Disassembled

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(5) Clean both filter elements thoroughly in dry‐cleaning solvent.
Allow elements to dry out (use air hose if available).

(6) Clean oil cup and refill to indicated level mark. Use clean engine
oil (seasonal grade).

(7) Dip one screen surface of each filter element about ½ inch into
oil in the oil cup (to “oil wet” filter pack). Install the two filter
elements, baffle plate, and oil cup immediately after “oil wetting” the
filter elements. Make sure gaskets are in place. NOTE: Do not add more
oil to oil cup after elements have been dipped into it, because excess
oil absorbed by elements will drip back into oil cup, bringing level
back to normal.

(8) Round‐type oil bath air cleaner used on earlier models does not
have removable filter element. Complete cleaner body must be removed
from vehicle, immersed and agitated in cleaning solvent to wash out
dirt. After cleaning, allow filter element to dry (use air hose if
available), then apply a few squirts of engine oil to inside of cleaner
element, using oilcan. Refill cup, replace baffle plate and cup,
securely tightening clamp band thumb screw.

77. HOSE AND CARBURETOR FITTING.

a. Remove. Carburetor intake and hose connection must be
removed from carburetor to remove and/or install air hose.

(1) Loosen screws in the two hose clamps.

(2) Remove four screws retaining carburetor air intake fitting. Remove
carburetor fitting from end of hose, and pull hose off air cleaner body
connection.

b. Install. Before installing air hose, inspect for
breaks or faulty condition that might prevent airtight seal between air
cleaner and carburetor fitting.

(1) Install one end of hose on carburetor fitting. Do not tighten clamp
screw.

(2) Install other end of hose on air cleaner connection. Do not tighten
clamp screw.

(3) Install carburetor fitting. Securely tighten the four screws. Next,
center air hose between carburetor fitting and air cleaner connection
and securely tighten hose clamp screws.

78. REMOVE AIR CLEANER.

a. Loosen hose clamp screw at air cleaner body connection and
remove two nuts and gear‐toothed washers from bolts securing air
cleaner assembly to frame bracket. NOTE: Gear‐toothed lock washers are
also used under heads of the two mounting bolts. Withdraw cleaner from
end of air hose.

b. The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on
earlier models.

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79. INSTALL AIR CLEANER.

a. Engage air cleaner hose connection in end of hose and mount
cleaner assembly on frame bracket with two bolts, gear‐toothed lock
washers, and nuts. Securely tighten mounting nuts. NOTE: The plated
(whitened) mounting bolts, four gear‐toothed lock washers, and bolt
nuts must effect a ground connection between bracket and filter
mounting to insure adequate radio bonding. Tighten air hose clamp
screw at cleaner body connection.

b. The same procedure applies to round‐type air cleaners used on
earlier models.

80. REPLACEMENT OF AIR CLEANER MOUNTING BRACKET.

a. Air cleaner mounting bracket and air cleaner can be removed
or installed as an assembly.

b. Remove.

(1) Loosen hose clamp connection at air cleaner body.

(2) Disconnect battery ground wire. This prevents shorting battery when
removing cleaner bracket clamp bolt.

(3) Remove the two upper cleaner bracket frame clamp bolts.

(4) Remove lower mounting bolt. Cleaner lower bracket mounting and
clutch cable tube mounting are secured to frame bracket by the same
whitened radio bonding bolt, gear‐toothed lock washers, and nut. Remove
nut and drop bolt to free cleaner bracket.

c. Install.

(1) Engage air hose and cleaner body connection.

(2) Attach lower bracket first. Locate cleaner bracket so that hole
lines up with bolt holes in frame bracket and clutch cable tube
mounting. Pass whitened radio bonding bolt upward through bracket hole,
install shakeproof lock washer, and securely tighten nut.

(3) Attach bracket to the two upper frame clips. Tighten the clamp bolt
nuts.

(4) Connect battery ground wire.

(5) Tighten air hose clamp screw at cleaner connection.

81. EXHAUST SYSTEM.

a. Remove Muffler Assembly.

(1) Support vehicle on rear stand.

(2) Remove bolt from end of hanger bracket on left side of vehicle, and
remove bolt from muffler clamp and skid plate bracket on right side of
vehicle. Drop skid plate.

(3) Loosen nut and bolt on clamp which secures front end of muffler at
exhaust pipe connection (clamp is attached to muffler).

(4) Remove muffler rear hanger bracket bolt nut. Pull muffler assembly
free from exhaust pipe connection.

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b. Install Muffler Assembly.

(1) Engage muffler pipe and exhaust pipe at muffler pipe clamp
connection. Do not tighten clamp bolt nut as yet.

(2) Attach muffler rear hanger bracket to frame bracket bolt,
installing lock washer, and tightening nut. NOTE: It may be advisable
to loosen hanger bracket on muffler so that muffler can be lined up for
front end connection.

(3) Tighten muffler and exhaust pipe clamp bolt nut and rear hanger nut.

(4) Raise skid plate into position and install right side mounting bolt
which secures muffler front bracket and skid plate bracket to frame
clip. Tighten all mounting nuts.

c. Remove Exhaust Pipes.

(1) Refer to step a (1), (2), (3) above.

(2) Remove right side footboard and brake pedal assembly as follows:
Loosen footboard rear support stud nut, remove front support stud
nut, and pull footboard outward to free end of safety guard. Remove
bolt which secures front exhaust pipe clamp, and remove nut from rear
support rod, freeing stop light switch and rear end of footboard
sidebar. Remove nut from front support rod, and drop footboard and
brake foot pedal assembly to provide clearance for exhaust pipe
removal. Disengage rear exhaust pipe at cylinder port, at same time
prying and pulling front exhaust pipe forward and downward to free
from cylinder port. Both exhaust pipes can now be worked downward and
removed from vehicle as an assembly.

d. Install Exhaust Pipes.

(1) Position exhaust pipe (front and rear) assembly, working it into
position so that front pipe end slips into cylinder port; then, pry and
force rear pipe end into rear cylinder port.

(2) Mount footboard, brake foot pedal, and sidebar assembly on support
rods, installing washer and nut on front support rod.

(3) Position and mount stop light switch on rear support rod. See that
spring and operating control wire exert a straight pull on switch
plunger when foot pedal is operated.

(4) Install bolt, washer, and nut which secure front exhaust pipe clamp
to footboard sidebar.

(5) To attach safety guard to sidebar, pull front end of footboard away
from sidebar, line up holes in sidebar and safety guard end, then pass
footboard support stud through both pieces, and secure with washer and
nut.

(6) Tighten footboard rear support stud nut.

(7) To complete installation, follow procedure outlined in step
b (1) through (4) above.

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10—INSTRUMENT PANEL TERMINAL.

12—BATTERY POSITIVE.

13—BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND).

18—TERMINAL JUNCTION ON FRAME.

26—IGNITION—LIGHT SWITCH.

28—SPARK COIL.

33—CIRCUIT BREAKER.

34—COIL TO TIMER WIRE.

*A—RADIO BOND, COIL TO TIMER WIRE.

*B—RADIO BOND, COIL TO ENGINE.

*C—NOISE SUPPRESSION CONDENSER.

*D—SHIELDED COIL TO TIMER WIRE.

*E—SPARK PLUG SUPPRESSORS.

RA PD 315723
Figure 48—Ignition to Battery Wiring Diagram

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82. DESCRIPTION.

a. The ignition system differs from that of the conventional
automotive types in that it has no distributor. A circuit breaker alone
is used. Both coil high‐tension winding ends lead directly to both
spark plugs. Thus both plugs spark at the same time, one cylinder being
on compression stroke while the other cylinder is on exhaust stroke.

83. SPARK PLUGS.

a. Defective spark plugs are indicated by engine missing,
overheating, knocking excessively, and lacking normal power.

b. Type. Spark plugs are medium heat range,
manufacturer’s (H–D) No. 3.

c. Cleaning. Do not take plugs apart for cleaning. Use
the sandblast cleaner method.

d. Point Adjustment. Bend electrode located in plug base
to adjust point gap 0.025 inch to 0.030 inch.

e. Replacement. Use spark plug wrench (41–W–3334) to
install plugs, using new gaskets. Never draw a cool plug up tight in
a hot cylinder head, rather turn down snug and wait l/2 minute until
plug base is warm: then tighten securely. CAUTION: Take care not to
cross‐thread when installing spark plug.

84. CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS (fig. 49).

a. Circuit breaker lever is insulated from ground and connects
to primary wire binding post by means of a “pig‐tail” wire. Stationary
point is grounded to timer base and is movable in order to adjust
circuit breaker points. Circuit breaker points that are burned or
pitted should be renewed or dressed with a clean fine‐cut, contact
point file. The file should not be used on other metals and should
not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. CAUTION: Never use emery130
cloth to clean points. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may
not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication
that they are not functioning satisfactorily.

b. Remove Breaker Lever.

(1) To disconnect condenser terminal, remove nut from end of condenser
and remove gear‐toothed washer, plain washer, and the brass terminal
strip. Do not remove fiber washer and plain washer located back of
brass terminal strip on condenser terminal post.

RA PD 310248
Figure 49—Circuit Breaker Points Removed

(2) Bend brass terminal strip down and remove binding nut which secures
brass terminal strip and breaker lever “pig‐tail” to primary wire
binding post.

(3) Compress breaker lever spring at end of lever, disengaging spring.
CAUTION: Do not lose spring. Release and remove lever from insulated
pivot post.

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c. Remove Adjustable Contact Point.

(1) Remove the two lock screws and washer plate, securing adjustable
contact point assembly to timer base. Point assembly is free to be
lifted off lever pivot stud.

d. Install Adjustable Contact Point.

(1) Install contact point assembly, replacing washer plate and the two
lock screws. Do not tighten lock screws until circuit breaker points
are adjusted (step f below).

e. Install Breaker Lever.

(1) Install brass terminal strip on primary wire binding post.

(2) Connect end of brass terminal strip to condenser terminal post.
Install flat washer, gear‐toothed washer, and nut.

(3) Install breaker lever on pivot post insulated bearing.

(4) Install breaker lever spring. Make sure that ends of spring are
retained correctly.

(5) NOTE: Keep breaker lever cam very lightly greased.

f. Adjusting Circuit Breaker Points (fig. 51).

(1) Correct point gap is 0.022 inch. Circuit breaker point faces must
seat squarely against each other. If bent, square up and aline by
bending contact plate. Turn timer breaker cam until breaker lever fiber
is located on highest point of cam.

(2) With the adjustable point lock screws loose, shift the adjustable
point plate to obtain a 0.022–inch gap between the circuit breaker
points. Measure gap with an accurate thickness gage before retightening
lock screws, and again recheck point gap after tightening the lock
screws. NOTE: Wrong circuit breaker point gap affects ignition timing.

85. CONDENSER.

a. The condenser is connected in parallel with the circuit
breaker points, one of its terminals being grounded (for the adjustable
point) to the timer base by means of the mounting screw, the other
terminal making connection with the circuit breaker lever (for the
lever point) by means of the lever “pig‐tail.”

b. Remove.

(1) Unlatch circuit breaker cover retainer and remove cover.

(2) Remove nut from end of condenser and remove gear‐toothed washer,
plain washer, and the brass terminal strip. NOTE: A small plain washer
and a large fiber washer are located behind brass terminal strip.

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(3) Remove screw which secures condenser to timer base. Remove
condenser.

RA PD 310249
Figure 50—Circuit Breaker (Timer), Disassembled

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c. Install.

(1) Mount condenser on timer housing. Install lock washer and screw.
Make sure small plain washer and large fiber washer are in place on
condenser end terminal screw before connecting the brass terminal strip.

(2) Connect brass terminal strip to condenser. Replace plain washer,
gear‐toothed washer and terminal nut.

(3) Install circuit breaker cover.

86. CIRCUIT BREAKER AND TIMER ASSEMBLY (figs. 50 and 51).

a. When the circuit breaker timer shaft and base assembly must
be replaced due to excessive wear in timer shaft bearing, sheared worm
gear pin, and/or worn or damaged worm gear, engine ignition must be
retimed. Ignition timing for the V‐type twin engine is difficult and
should be attempted only by experienced personnel.

b. Remove (fig. 50). Before the timer shaft and base
assembly can be removed, the circuit breaker timer head assembly must
be removed. NOTE: If the timer head only, or timer wire, is to be
replaced, it is not necessary to remove timer shaft and base assembly,
and thus throw engine ignition out of time.

(1) Remove timer head cover.

(2) Unlatch cover retainer ends from holes in the timer head and remove.

(3) Disconnect spark control wire at timer lever.

(4) Lift the timer head assembly off base. The head seating tension
(ground) spring (underneath shaft base) is also free, and can now be
removed. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect timer to coil wire
from timer head terminal post, unless head or wire is being replaced.

(5) Remove the two timer base mounting screws and lock washers. It will
be noted that one screw grounds the timer to coil wire shielding.

(6) Timer shaft and base assembly can now be lifted out of engine gear
case cover. Take care not to damage or misplace base gasket.

c. Install Timer Shaft and Base Assembly and Timing
Ignition (fig. 51). This calls for retiming engine ignition as
follows: (NOTE: Circuit breaker cam turns in clockwise direction):

(1) Unscrew and raise front cylinder inlet valve spring cover, using
tappet wrench (41–W–3617).

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(2) Turn engine in direction in which it runs until valve tappet
indicates front cylinder is on compression stroke (directly after front
cylinder intake valve closes).

A—FLYWHEEL TIMING MARK IN CRANKCASE INSPECTION HOLE.

B—COVER RETAINER.

C—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER.

D—CIRCUIT BREAKER CAM.

E—CONDENSER.

F—SPARK CONTROL WIRE HOUSING.

G—SPARK CONTROL WIRE.

H—SPARK LEVER QUADRANT.

J—SPARK LEVER.

K—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND SCREW.

L—TIMER HEAD ADJUSTING BAND.

M—MARK ON BREAKER CAM AND MARKS ON TIMER HEAD AND HAND INDICATING ORIGINAL FACTORY TIMING.

N—CIRCUIT BREAKER POINTS.

O—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT PLATE.

P—ADJUSTABLE CONTACT POINT LOCK SCREWS.

Q—CIRCUIT BREAKER LEVER PIVOT (INSULATED).

R—BREAKER LEVER SPRING.

RA PD 310281
Figure 51—Circuit Breaker Marks and Flywheel Mark Correctly Alined

(3) Remove plug from timing inspection hole in left‐side crankcase.

(4) Continue turning engine slowly until flywheel timing mark is in
center of inspection hole (fig. 51). Do not turn engine further.

(5) Install paper gasket and timer head tension (ground) spring on
timer shaft base assembly. Make sure bent ends of tension spring are
facing downward (away from timer base).

(6) Insert timer shaft and base assembly all the way down into place in
timing gear case cover, trying to locate mark on small end135 of breaker
cam in position shown in figure 51. Do not install base mounting screws
as yet.

(7) Install timer head assembly so that spark control lever is within
the advance and retard quadrant (fig. 51). NOTE: Do not install cover
retainer until later.