MISSION FURNITURE

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART THREE

POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS

CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1912

BY H. H. WINDSOR

This book is one of the series of
handbooks on industrial subjects
being published by the Popular
Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these
books are “written so you can understand
it,” and are intended to furnish
information on mechanical subjects at a
price within the reach of all.

The texts and illustrations have been
prepared expressly for this Handbook
Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and
have been revised by the editor of Popular
Mechanics.

The dimensions given in the stock
list contained in the description
of each piece of furniture illustrated
in this book call for material
mill-planed, sanded and cut to length.
If the workman desires to have a complete
home-made article, allowance
must be made in the dimensions for
planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S
and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface
four sides and surface two sides.

CONTENTS


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[5]

A PIANO BENCH



Piano Bench in Black Walnut

The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture
was made of black walnut and was finished
natural. The finish was applied in the following
manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and
sandpapered, then the surface was covered with a
coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had stood
several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate
the wood, the surplus liquid was wiped off with a
flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for 48 hours,
a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to
harden overnight. The next morning this shellac
[6]
was sandpapered lightly with No. 00 paper and a
coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions
which are found upon every can. Two
more coats of wax were applied after intervals of
half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect
is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich
color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to
preserve the color. The following stock is needed:

  • 1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
  • 6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.

With the exception of the legs all the stock is
specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces.
The legs are specified planed on four sides. Square
the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc.,
to width and length.



Detail of the Piano Bench

Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are
best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being “housed” into
the
[7] rails. The reason for this is obvious—it is a difficult
matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are
tenoned. When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths
adjusts itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the
mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting
the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.

Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench
together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher
and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either
by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.

A LIBRARY TABLE

A library table of neat appearance and correct
proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch
and detail drawing. This table looks best when finished
in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the
other furniture woods can be used if desired. If
the material is ordered from the mill cut to length,
squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can
be avoided. Order the following pieces:

  • 4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.
  • 2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
  • 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
  • 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.
  • 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.

[8]


Detail of the Library Table
Detail of the Library Table

[9]

Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and
squaring them up and laying out the mortises for
the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should
be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut
the same height. This is best done by placing the
four legs side by side with the ends square, and
then laying out the mortises across all four at once
with a try-square.


The Finished Library Table
The Finished Library Table

The table top is made of several boards which
are doweled and glued together. Be careful to
get the best side of each board up and have the
joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out
for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened
to the board by means of screws. The holes
can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged.
The top rails are also fastened to the top board by
means of screws.

The end pieces can now be made. Two or more
[10]
boards will have to be glued together for these. The
top corners will have to be cut to fit about the
top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to
the top board. The shelves also have the corners
cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are
held to the end boards by means of screws.

If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight,
they can be glued and screwed together, which will
complete the table except for the slats and drawers.
The slats can be fastened on with nails, then
the heads covered with fancy nails which can be
secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can
now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards
as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under
the lower shelves to help steady the table. The
two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch.
No handles are needed as the lower edge of the
front board can be used for pulling them out.

When the table is complete it should be carefully
gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots
removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as
finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply
the stain preferred or the one that matches the
other furniture. This can be any of the many stains
supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A PRINCESS DRESSER

[11]



Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak

A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned
and of pleasing appearance is shown in the
accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost
is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away,
a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering
[12]
the material ready cut to length, squared and
sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the
material needed will be as follows:

  • 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
  • 5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.

The following pieces may be of any soft wood:

  • 5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
  • 6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
  • 2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
  • 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
  • 4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of
equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper
ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out
and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are
all made and then marked and cut directly from
each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails
should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in.
end panels.

The top board should have the corners cut to fit
about the posts. The corners of the back board
should be rounded as shown in the drawing.

The end sections of the dresser can be glued together
first, care being taken to get the joints
square and tight. When these are dry the side rails
and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place.
The top board is held in position by means of screws
through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides
of the rails.

[13]


Detail of the Princess Dresser
Detail of the Princess Dresser

The mirror frame is made by mortising the end
pieces with the side pieces as shown. It is rabbeted
on the back to hold a 20 by 38-in. mirror.
After the mirror is securely fastened in the frame
a thin wood covering should be tacked on the back
to protect the glass. The frame swings between
[14]
two upright posts which are securely fastened to
the body of the dresser as shown.

The drawers are made and fitted in the usual manner.
The drawing shows two drawers in the top
compartment, but one exactly like the lower can be
made and used instead by simply leaving out the
1 in. partition. Suitable handles for the drawers
can be purchased at any hardware store.

The back is made of soft wood and is put on in
the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from
about the joints as the stain will not take where
there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper
and apply the stain desired, which may be
any of the many mission stains supplied by the
trade for this purpose.

A SEWING BOX

A rather unique sewing box, and one that is quite
as convenient as unique, is shown in the illustration.
The material is walnut and ash. The posts
are walnut and the slats and top rail ash. Both are
finished in their natural colors. The following is
the stock bill:

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. in diameter and 15 in. long, walnut.
  • 1 bottom, 3/8 by 16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S, walnut.
  • 4 top rails, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S, ash.
  • 4 under rails, 5/8 by 3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S, walnut.
  • 72 slats, 1/8 by 5/8 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S, ash.

In ordering the stock it will be wise to combine
the lengths of pieces having like widths and thicknesses.

If not possible to secure doweling of the diameter
indicated for the verticals, it is an easy matter to
[15]
take a square piece of stock, lay it off and work it
into an eight-sided prism. After this, the arrises
may again be planed until it has 16 and then 32
sides. The rest may be removed with sandpaper.
Or it is possible that curtain pole stock will be
available. Saw these posts to length and leave the
ends square.


Sewing Box Made of Walnut and Ash
Sewing Box Made of
Walnut and Ash

Square up the stock for the other parts. Work
the bottom piece to a 16-in. square. The rails are
not to be squared on the ends but are to be mitered
each in turn. The bottom is fastened to the posts
by metal brackets.[16]



Detail of the Sewing Box

Chisel out recesses in the posts so that the bottom
may be inserted. Insert the corners and use
glue and nails to hold them in place. Place the
lower of the two top rails, notching out the posts
[17]
as is necessary to bring the inner edge of these rails
in position. Fasten to the posts. Miter and place
the top rails. The slats, it will be noted, are fastened
to the bottom from the outer side and to the
lower of the two top rails from the inner side. Brass-headed
tacks such as upholsterers use are required.

In finishing, sandpaper all parts and then apply a
coat of boiled linseed oil. Allow this to stand a
half hour or so and then wipe the surface clean.
After this has dried thoroughly apply a thin coating
of shellac and allow it to harden. Sand the shellac
when hard with No. 00 sandpaper and then apply
several coats of wax, polishing in the usual manner.

Two pairs of castors will add to the ease with
which the box may be moved about.

A FERN STAND

When making the fern stand shown in the accompanying
sketch use quarter-sawed oak if possible,
as this wood is the most suitable for finishing
in the different mission stains. Considerable labor
can be saved in its construction by ordering the
stock from the mill ready cut to length, squared
and sanded. Order the following pieces:

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 shelf supports, 3/4 by 1 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 16 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15 by 15 in., S-4-S.
  • 16 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 5 in., S-4-S.

The legs are made first. Be sure they are square
and of equal length. The mortises can be laid out
and cut or they can be left until the tenons on the
side rails are all made, then marked and cut from
[18]
each tenon. The top rails and the slats are exactly
alike for the four sides, as the table is square. In
addition to the tenons on the rails, grooves should
be cut in each for the ends of the slats to fit into
as shown in the cross section in the detail drawing.
Holes should be cut in the slats as shown.


Detail of the Fern Stand
Detail of the Fern Stand

The top board should have the corners cut out
to fit around the posts. It is held in place by means
of screws through cleats which are fastened to the
inner sides of the top rails.

The bottom board or shelf rests upon two rails
that are mortised into the posts as shown. The top
and bottom boards should be of one piece if possible,
otherwise two or more boards will have to be glued
together.

Before gluing up the joints see that all the pieces
[19]
fit together square and tight. The posts and rails
should be glued and assembled, then the top and
bottom boards put in place to hold the frame square
when the clamps are put on.


Finished Stand in Quartered Oak
Finished Stand
in Quartered Oak

Leave to dry for about 24 hours before removing
the clamps. Fasten the top and bottom boards in
place and then go over the stand with fine sandpaper
and remove all surplus glue and rough spots.[20]

A WARDROBE

The wardrobe or clothes closet shown in the accompanying
sketch and detail drawing will be found
a great convenience in a bedroom where closet space
is limited or where there is no closet at all. It provides
ample room for hanging suits, dresses and
other wearing apparel, as well as space for boots
and shoes. It can be made of any of the several
furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed
oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect.
The stock should be ordered from the mill ready
cut to length, squared and sanded. In this way
much labor will be saved. The following pieces
will be needed:

  • 4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 64-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 front rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top and 1 bottom board, each 3/4 by 18-1/2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top back rail, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 4 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 6 end rails, 3/4 by 6 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 end uprights, 3/4 by 4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 end panels, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 5 shelves, 3/4 by 17-3/4 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 8-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 door, 3/4 by 7-3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 shelf partition, 3/4 by 10 by 19 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 8 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 partition (several pieces), 3/4 by 19-1/2 by 57-3/4 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 door uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 top rails, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 middle rails, 3/4 by 6 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 lower rails, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 center uprights, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 23 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 panels, 3/8 by 6 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 pieces, 3/8 by 4-3/4 by 19 in., soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 3/8 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 3/8 by 4-1/4 by 8 in., soft wood.
  • 4 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19 in., soft wood.
  • 3 pieces, 1/2 by 16-1/2 by 19 in., soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 6-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19 in., soft wood.
  • 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., soft wood.
  • 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 36 by 58 in., S-2-S.

[21]


The Wardrobe Complete
The Wardrobe Complete

[22]

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and
of equal length. The upper ends can be chamfered
or rounded if desired. The two front posts are
alike, as are the back ones. The mortises should be
laid out in each pair of posts and then cut with a
sharp chisel, or they can be left until the tenons
are all made, and then marked and cut from each
tenon. Grooves should be cut on one side of all
the posts to take the end panels.

The front and lower back rails are plain except
for the tenons at each end, but the end rails and the
center uprights should have grooves cut for the
panels the same as the posts. The top back rail
serves as a top back board and should have the corners
rounded as shown in the detail drawing.

The frame can now be assembled. Glue should
be used on all the joints as it makes them much
stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly
square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and
the shelves.

The top and bottom boards should have the corners
cut to clear the posts. The closet is divided
into two compartments by a partition. This can be
made of plain boards or panels similar to those in
the ends, as desired. Place the shelves in position
as shown. They are held in place by means of
cleats and screws. The one shelf has a partition in
its center with a door on one side and two small
drawers on the other. Drawers should be fitted to
three of the other compartments. They are made
in the usual manner except that the front boards
should be cut out at the top for a handhold as
shown.

The doors are fitted by a tenon and mortise joint
[23]
at the ends. They have a centerpiece and panels
to match the ends of the closet. Suitable hinges
and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased
at any hardware store.


Detail of the Wardrobe
Detail of the Wardrobe

[24]

The backing is put on in the usual manner. It
should be finished on the front side.

When complete, the closet should be carefully
gone over with fine sandpaper and all glue and
rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired
color. This may be any of the many mission stains
supplied by the trade for this purpose.

A FINISH

An appropriate finish is obtained as follows:
First thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the various
parts, then apply a coat of brown Flemish water
stain. Allow this to dry well, then sand it lightly
with No. 00 sandpaper to lay the grain. Again apply
the Flemish stain, but this time have it weakened
by the addition of an equal amount of water.
When dry, sand again as on the first coat. Upon
the second coat of stain apply a thin coat of shellac.
This is to protect the high lights from the stain in
the filler which is to follow. Sand lightly, then apply
a paste filler of a sufficiently dark shade to make
a dark field for the brown Flemish. Clean off the
surplus and polish in the usual manner.

Upon the filler, after it has hardened overnight,
apply a coat of orange shellac. Successively apply
several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Polish
the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the
last with pulverized pumice stone, mixed with raw
linseed or crude oil.

[25]

AN OAK TABLE

The accompanying illustration shows another
style of a mission table. The stock for this table if
ordered as follows and sanded will require only the
work of making the joints and putting them
together:

  • 4 posts, 2 in, square 30-5/8 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 upper rails, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 top pieces, 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 6 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-2-S.

This table may be made with mortise and tenon
joints or with dowels as desired. If dowels are used,
the upper and lower rails should be made 2 in.
shorter than shown in the drawing.

Be sure to get the pieces for the posts with their
surfaces square to each other and their ends sawed
square off. This will simplify the assembling a great
deal. Make the posts exactly the same length, 30-1/2
in., and chamfer a 3/8-in, bevel on their tops.

Square up the four upper rails, 6 by 22 in., marking
the working face and edge to work from when
laying out the tenons later. Square up the two
lower rails, 2-1/2 by 22 in. These must be exactly the
same length as the upper rails. The two ends of the
table having the slats should be glued up first. Lay
out the tenons on the upper and lower rails for these
two ends and be sure to work from the marked face
and edges, using a knife line. Cut the tenons, and,
by placing them against the posts in the exact position
they are to occupy, mark the places for the
mortises. These joints should be numbered so that
each mortise may be cut to fit its own tenon.
[26]


Detail of Construction
Detail of Construction

[27]


Finished Table
Finished Table

Square up the slats, 3 by 15-1/8 in., and cut mortises
in the upper and lower rails 1/4 in. deep to let them
in. The number of these slats, their size and spacing
may be arranged to suit one’s own idea. Put
the posts, upper and lower rails, and slats together
without glue first to determine if the parts fit properly,
and then glue and clamp them together. Hot
glue will hold best, if the room and lumber are
warm; if not, it is best to use ordinary liquid glue.
While the glue on these two ends of the table is setting,
the other upper rails, top, and stretcher may
be finished.

The top will have to be made of two or three
pieces joined together with dowels and glue. If possible,
use only two boards and be sure the grain
in both pieces runs the same way when they are put
together.

After the ends which were glued have set at least
24 hours, the clamps may be taken off and the other
two upper rails tenoned and mortised in place. The
stretcher may be held with two 3/8-in. dowels in each
end, or with two round-head screws put through the
lower rails. When gluing up the whole table, be
sure the sides are square to each other. The top
may now be squared up 24 by 24 in. and the corners
cut out for the top of the posts. The top may be fastened
as shown at A and B in the drawing, or by
cleats screwed to the inside of the upper rails and
top.

Before staining, be sure that all surplus glue is
scraped off and the surfaces sanded clean. A weathered
or fumed oak stain is suitable for this table. A
good weathered oak stain may be made by mixing a
little drop black ground in oil with turpentine and
a little linseed oil. Put this stain on with a brush
[28]
and allow to stand until it begins to flatten or dull,
then rub off across the grain with a rag or piece of
cotton waste. When thoroughly dry, apply one coat
of very thin shellac. After this has dried, finish with
two coats of wax. The shellac prevents the turpentine
in the wax from rubbing out the stain. To get
a good wax finish the work should dry until it will
not show finger marks, before rubbing.

BOOK TROUGH


Detail of Book Trough
Detail of Book Trough

A very cheap but attractive book trough is shown
in the accompanying photograph. This piece of
mission furniture will be found useful in the home
or office and can be made by anyone who has a slight
knowledge of tools. The material should be either
oak or chestnut, which can be secured from the planing
[29]
mill dressed and sandpapered ready to cut the
tenons and mortises. The stock needed will be as
follows:

  • 2 ends, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 31 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 10 in. by 35 in., S-1-S.
  • 2 trough pieces, 7/8 in. by 4 in. by 35 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 keys, 5/8 in. by 5/8 in. by 3 in.

Book Trough Complete
Book Trough Complete

The two end pieces should be made first with the
top corners rounded off and the lower end, which is
of simple design, can be cut out with a bracket saw
[30]
and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises
should then be laid out according to the sketch and
cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes and finishing with
a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and
free from slivers.

The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key
tenon at each end to fit the end pieces. The
space between the two tenons at each end can be
cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp.
The key holes should be mortised as shown in the
sketch. The trough pieces are made in a similar
manner, care being taken to have all tenons and
mortises perfectly square and a good fit, so the
trough when assembled will have a neat and
workmanlike appearance. The trough can be
finished in any one of the many mission finishes
which are supplied by the trade for this purpose.

AN OAK SERVING TABLE

The serving table is another useful piece of furniture
that can be made in mission style. This table
should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained
very light. The stock order is as follows:

  • 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.

Serving Table Complete
Serving Table Complete

The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary
for squaring to length and the two back posts
should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as they are the
longest and project above the back panel. All of the
[31]
posts are cut tapering for a space of 4 in. from the
bottom ends. Mortises in the posts and tenons on the
rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions
in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and
put together. The top, which should be of well seasoned
wood, is cut to fit around the back posts so the
back edge and the back side of the posts are flush.
The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners
of the back posts. This is done so the back surface of
the panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top.
The slat is fastened with round-headed brass screws
[32]
on the front of the two back posts about half way
between the top and the ends of the posts.


Detail of Serving Table
Detail of Serving Table

The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two
methods. One way is to use a small button made of
wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and then
fastened to the top with screws. About six of these
buttons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The
other method is to bore a hole slanting on the inside
of the rails, directing the bit toward the top, which
will make a seat—if not cut too deep—for a screw that
can be turned direct into the top.

The glue must be removed from about the joints
and the surfaces smoothed over with fine sandpaper
before applying the stain. The directions for staining
will be found on the can in which it is sold.
The grain of the wood will show up well if the surface
is given a dull waxed finish after staining.

[33]

AN UMBRELLA STAND


Umbrella Stand
Umbrella Stand

Detail of Umbrella Stand
Detail of Umbrella Stand

The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying illustration
will be found quite appropriate for the hall
or reception room that is furnished in mission style.
It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but
quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock
necessary to make this stand can be secured from the
mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, and is
given in the following list:

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.

First square up the posts and bevel the tops as
shown in the detail sketch. Place them side by side,
on a flat surface with the ends
square and lay out the mortises
with a try-square on all four
pieces at the same time. This
will insure your getting them
all straight and of the same
height. Now lay out the tenons
on the rails in the same manner
and cut them to fit the mortises
in the posts. Mortises
should also be cut in the rails
for the ends of the side slats as
shown. Try all the joints and
see that they fit tight and
square. Glue two sides of the
stand together and let them dry
for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining parts,
being careful to get everything together perfectly
square.[34]

The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It
should have a hole cut in
it for the drip pan. The pan
should be about 6 or 7 in. in
diameter. One suitable for
the purpose can be purchased
in any hardware
store. The bottom board
can be fastened to the rails
with nails driven from the
under side, or cleats can be
nailed to the rails for it to
rest upon.

When the stand is complete,
scrape all glue from
about the joints and go over
the whole with fine sandpaper,
removing all rough
spots. Apply the finish you
like best, or the one that will
match your other furniture.

Should the builder want
an entire hand-made stand,
the drip pan may be beaten
into shape from sheet brass
or copper. This kind of
work is known as repoussé. After beating the pan
into shape, it can be finished in antique, old copper
or given a polished surface, as desired.

[35]

A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET

The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient
and attractive for the dining room. For the
best effect it should be made of quartered oak,
stained brown or weathered and trimmed with brass
hardware.


Buffet in Quartered Oak
Buffet in Quartered Oak

[36]

To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure
the following pieces of stock, surfaced on four
sides and cut to length:

  • 4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.

Begin the work on the rails for the sides of
the stand. Have them all squared up to exactly the
same length and to the correct width and thickness.
Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them
with a saw and chisel.

When this is finished, try the legs to see that they
are all the same length and that their surfaces are
square with each other. Next mark the mortises in
the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the
mortises, first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller
than the width of the mortise and cut to the line
with a chisel.


Method of Fastening with Screws
Method of Fastening with Screws

Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in
two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of
the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller mortises
[37]
in them for the keys, should be cut first.
Square up the two side panels and cut grooves 3/8
in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in the rails and
part of the legs.

Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and
3/8 in. thick, and cut mortises for them in the two
upper rails.



Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet

The two sides of the buffet are now ready to
be glued up and clamped. While the glue on these
is setting, make the door. The rails are mortised
[38]
into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive
the panel. It is best to get the stock a little
full for the door so that it may be made up a little
larger than necessary and planed down to fit.

There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten
the top and back. The top and back are held with
screws as shown in sketch.

Taper the keys only slightly, otherwise they will
keep working loose.

Stain with two coats of weathered oak, give one
coat of thin shellac to fix the stain and two coats
of wax for a soft-gloss finish.

A WRITING DESK

The desk shown in the illustration was made of
plain-sawed white oak. The copper lighting fixtures
were made by the amateur as were the hinges
and the drawer pulls. The doors are fitted with
art-glass panels. The following stock list is needed:

  • 1 top, 3/4 by 22-1/2 by 41 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 rails, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 35 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 drawer sides, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 19 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 14 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 19 by 14 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 slides, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 guides, 3/4 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 16 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 cabinet posts, 1 by 1 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back, 3/4 by 16 by 35 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 8 by 35 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 shelves, 3/4 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 door pieces, 5/8 by 1 by 4 in., S-2-S.

Square the legs to length and lay out and cut the
[39]
mortises thereon. Lay off the tenons on the rails,
after having squared the rails to length and width,
and cut them.

Work up the top of the table and then the drawer
stock and cabinet. Assemble the ends of the frame
first, using good hot glue and enough clamps to
hold the parts together properly. After the glue
has hardened on these, the clamps may be removed
and the front, back rails and the stretcher
assembled.


Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak
Writing Desk Made of Plain-Sawed Oak

While the glue is hardening on the main frame
[40]
the top cabinet may be built and assembled. This
cabinet is detachable from the table proper and is
to be held in place by means of cleats upon the
back. These cleats are not specified in the bill;
they may be obtained from scrap stock.


Detail of the Writing Desk
Detail of the Writing Desk

For a piece of woodwork of this style some of the
softer browns of the mission stains will be most
appropriate. After all parts have been thoroughly
cleaned by scraping and sandpapering, a stain may
be applied. Allow this to dry, then sand it lightly
and apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac
lightly and apply a filler of a color to match the
stain, but darker in tone, of course. Clean off the
surplus in the usual manner and then apply a coat
of shellac. Sand this lightly and apply several coats
of some good polishing wax.

[41]

MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND

The illustration shows a very handy music and
bookstand, which also can be used at the bedside as
a reading stand. The following list of
material will be required for construction:

  • 1 standard, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 37 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 horizontal, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 crosspiece, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 12 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 braces, 1-1/8 by 1-1/8 by 9 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 board, 1/2 by 8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 blocks, 1-1/8 in. square.
  • 2 gauge clamps.
  • 1 strip, 1/2 by 1 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 round-head brass screws.
  • 1 brass rod, 1/4 in. in diameter and 12 in, long.
  • 1 brass piece, 1/4 by 3/4 by 10 in.

Complete Stand
Complete Stand

Cut a tenon on the lower end of the
upright and make a mortise in the
center of the long crosspiece to receive
the tenon. The horizontal has tenons
cut on both ends which fit into mortises
cut in the sides of both crosspieces.
The upper corners on the ends
of both crosspieces are cut sloping on
a 45-deg. angle. The blocks for the
feet are attached to the under side and
at the end on each crosspiece with
screws and hot
glue, the screw
heads being sunk
so that they will
not catch on carpets
or mar the floor.[42]
The braces are attached with round-head screws
after they are cut on each end to fit the standard
and crosspiece.


Detail of the Stand
Detail of the Stand

The book rest is cut from the board. The openings
are made by sawing the pieces out with a coping
[43]
saw, and the edges are dressed up with a sharp
chisel. The lip strip is then glued to the lower edge
of the board.

One end of the board is now fitted into a slot cut
in one of the gauge clamps. The slot must be cut
at the right angle to give the desired slope to the
book rest. The gauge clamps are joined with two
small square strips of oak as shown. The small rod
brace is flattened at both ends and a hole drilled in
each to fasten it with screws as shown. The brass
strip is bent in the middle at right angles and drilled
to receive screws for fastening it in the corner of
the upright and horizontal pieces.

A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND

The accompanying picture shows a stand that is
intended primarily for holding a large-size dictionary.
The shelves may be utilized for holding books,
magazines or sheet music. It will stand wear best
if made of some hard wood, such as oak. Of the
soft woods chestnut has the best grain for finishing,
being hardly distinguishable from red oak.

The following pieces will be necessary:

  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 16 by 38-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 13-1/2 by 21 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 top, 3/4 by 13 by 17 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 lip, 3/8 by 3/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 keys, 3/4 by 1 by 3-1/2 in., S-2-S.

Begin work on the sides by preparing a joint
edge on each piece and from this square up the
lower ends and square lines across the inner surfaces
[44]
to indicate the positions of the lower edges of
the shelves.

Next, smooth off the mill marks from the broad
surfaces of the shelves and square them to size on
one edge and the two ends.


Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand
Detail of the Dictionary and Magazine Stand

[45]


Stand Made in Oak
Stand Made in Oak

Return to the side pieces and lay out the outline,
but do not cut to these lines until the gains and
mortises which are to receive the ends of the shelves
and their tenons have been laid out and cut. Laying
out these outlines at this time is done so as to
[46]
give the exact width the shelves are to have. These
dimensions can be determined by measuring across
the sides between the outlines at the points where
the shelves are to be placed.

The shelves which have no tenons are to be let
into the sides 1/4 in. They should be shouldered
1/2 in. back from the edge so that the groove will not
show on the face.

The lip on the front of the top shelf may be fastened
by means of very small brads, the heads of
which should be covered with putty, colored to
match the finish.

A suitable finish may be obtained as follows:

First see that all the mill marks are removed,
using a smooth plane and steel scraper and sandpaper,
then apply a coat of cathedral-oak water
stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No.
00 paper. Apply a second coat of stain, diluting
it by the addition of an equal volume of water. This
is to produce a stronger contrast. Sand this lightly
and put on a very thin coat of shellac to bind the
filler and to prevent the stain in the filler which
follows from discoloring the high lights. Sand this
lightly and put on a coat of paste filler according to
the directions that will be found on the can. This
filler should be colored in the following proportions:
Light paste filler, 20 lb.; Van Dyke brown, 1 lb.
After the filler has hardened, sand it lightly and put
on a coat of orange shellac. Follow this with several
coats of some good rubbing varnish. The first
coats should be rubbed with haircloth or curled
hair, and the last with powdered pumice stone and
raw linseed or crude oil.

[47]

A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR


Arm Chair Complete
Arm Chair Complete

[48]


Detail of the Arm Chair
Detail of the Arm Chair

A mission arm chair of simple design and construction
is shown in the accompanying illustration.
This chair is suitable for any room of the house
and can be made of wood to match other furniture.
Quarter-sawed oak is the wood most generally used,
and it is also very easy to obtain. The stock can be
ordered from the mill, cut to length, squared and
[49]
sanded. Following is a list of the material that will
be needed:

  • 2 front legs, 2 by 2 by 26-3/4 in.
  • 2 back legs, 2 by 4 by 43 in.
  • 2 arm rests, 1 by 4 by 26 in.
  • 5 rails, 3/4 by 4 by 21-1/2 in.
  • 5 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 2-1/2 in. .
  • 2 back pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
  • 1 piece leather, 31 in, square.
  • 1 piece burlap, 28 in, square.
  • 2 pieces leather, 13 by 18 in.
  • 2 pieces burlap, 13 by 18 in.
  • 1 box 8 oz. tacks.
  • 5-1/2 doz. ornamental nails.

Start with the front legs. Cut a tenon 1-1/4 in.
square and 3/4 in, long on one end to fit the arm rests.
The mortises for the side rails are cut 1/2 in. wide and
7/8 in, deep. The tenons on the rails are cut to fit
these mortises, care being taken to get them all the
same length between shoulders. The back legs are
cut with an offset of 2 in. as shown in the detail drawing
and also have mortises cut in them for the back
crosspieces. The upright pieces in the back are fastened
into the crosspieces by means of tenons and
mortises, and should be in place when the crosspieces
are fastened to the legs.

The arms are cut from the 1 by 4 by 26-in. pieces.
Be careful to get them so they will pair. The outside
edge can be either curved or straight as desired.
The front ends of the arms are held in place by mortises
which fit over the tenons on the ends of the
front legs, while the back ends are held in place by
round-headed screws as shown.

The chair is now ready to be glued. Be sure to
get the parts together perfectly square, and when
dry scrape off all surplus glue around the joints, for
stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will
be the result of failing to remove it. Go over the
parts carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all
[50]
rough marks. Then apply the stain you wish to use.
To make the seat, first fit boards in the bottom and
nail them to the side rails as shown. Fill the space
with hair or elastic cotton felt to about 3 in. above
the edge of the rails. Bind this down tightly with a
piece of burlap and tack the edges to the rails. Cut
out the corners of the burlap so that it will fit about
the posts. Put the leather on over this and tack the
edges to the bottoms of the rails. Then finish with
the ornamental nails as shown.

To finish the back, first tack a piece of burlap over
the opening, then place a layer of hair or cotton felt
on this about 1 in. thick. Stretch the leather over
this and fasten with ornamental nails. The back side
is finished in the same manner, except that the hair
is omitted.

A WALL SHELF

Coarse-grained woods make up into furniture and
take a more satisfactory finish than close-grained
woods. For this reason chestnut or oak is suggested
for this shelf. Chestnut has a beautiful grain and is
soft and easily worked.

There will be needed the following pieces:

  • Sides, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • Lower shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 6-1/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • Upper shelf, 1 piece, 3/4 by 4-3/4 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.

In making out this stock bill the pieces have been
specified 1/4 in. wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished
piece is to be to allow for squaring up. The thicknesses
are specified mill-planed exact so that all that is
necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from
the two broad surfaces.
[51]

It is quite possible that one may have a particular
space or a particular set of books to place in the shelf.
In such a case the length of the horizontals should be
lengthened or shortened to meet the particular demands
when ordering the lumber.


Complete Wall Shelf
Complete Wall Shelf

Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size.
They are to be all of the same length. Next shape up
the end pieces. The amount of slope for the front
edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces
have been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the
dadoes or grooves and gains may be laid out and cut.

Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance
of getting all the mill-marks off before putting on any
finish. When boards are planed at the mill the planing
is done by means of two or four knives revolving
above or below the board—sometimes both above and
below at the same time. These knives leave the surfaces
filled with little ridges and hollows across the
grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible
[52]
to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly
streaks upon the surface after it has had a finish of
stain and filler applied.

The joints here used are typical and the beginner
can readily find how they are to be made from any
good book on wood-working.


Wall Shelf Detail
Wall Shelf Detail

There are several ways of fastening the parts. They
may be fastened by means of round-head blued screws.
They may be fastened with carriage screws. The one
in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire
nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental
heads to represent old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.

It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain
and filler before the parts are assembled. A suitable
finish is obtained as follows: After the parts are
thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water
stain, wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had
time to soak into the wood very much. Allow this to
dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00 paper, after
which fill the pores of the wood with a black paste
filler—directions will be found on the can. Follow
this, when hardened, with several coats of floor wax.

[53]

A PEDESTAL

The pedestal shown in the accompanying illustration is another piece of
furniture that can be made in the mission style. It is very simple in
design and construction, and can be made by anyone who has a few simple
tools and a slight knowledge of their use. It is best to make it of
quarter-sawed oak as this is the most easily procured wood and also
looks the best when finished. If you order the material from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much hard labor will be saved.
Following is a list of the material needed:

  • 1 top, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S.
  • 1 bottom, 3/4 by 12 by 12 in., S-1-S
  • 8 pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 11 in.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 5 by 26 in., S-1-S.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 26 in.
  • 1 piece, 3/4 by 6 by 6 in.
  • 4 blocks, 1 in. square.

Having the boards for the post cut to the proper length and square, nail
them together as shown in the detail drawing. Use finishing nails, then
set the heads and fill the holes with putty. Next, nail the 3/4 by 6-in.
piece on one end of the post leaving the edges projecting even on [54]
all sides. Pick out the best board for the top. On the under side and
1/2. in. in from the edges, nail four of the 3/4 by 2 by 11-in. pieces
which have been previously mitered as shown in the plan view. Now fasten
this top to the post by nailing through the projecting edge of the top
piece into the top board. Be careful to get this top on square with the
post and exactly in center.

The bottom board is made in the same manner as the top board and is
nailed to the lower end of the post as shown. Four 1-in. square blocks
should be fastened to the bottom for the pedestal to rest on.

When complete, sandpaper smooth and apply any one of the many mission
stains that are supplied by the trade for this purpose.


Detail of Pedestal
Detail of Pedestal

Completed Pedestal
Completed Pedestal

After staining the wood, the
surface can be given a polished
or dull finish, as desired. Mission
furniture requires a dull finish, and this may be
obtained by applying a coat of wax, well rubbed on
the wood.

[55]

MAGAZINE RACK

The accompanying cut shows a magazine rack
that will find favor with many amateur wood-workers
on account of its simplicity in design and its rich,
massive appearance when properly finished. It is so
constructed that each piece may be polished, stained
and finished before it is finally put together. Quarter-sawed
oak is the best wood to use. Plain-sawed
oak looks well, but it is more liable to warp than
quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces
as wide as the ones here used. Following is a list
of the material needed:

  • 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
  • 5 shelves, 1 by 14 by 24 in., S-2-S.
  • 20 F.H. screws, 2 in. long.

Considerable labor can be saved if the material be
ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared
and sanded. The corner posts should be made first.
The most convenient and accurate method of laying
out the mortises is to square one end of each post
and lay them on the bench flat, with the squared
ends even with each other; then clamp them securely
and lay out the mortises on one side across
all four pieces at once; then loosen the clamp and
project the marks to the other side with a try-square.
Now saw along these marks, making each cut just
deep enough to bring the mortises diagonally across
the piece from one corner to the opposite corner as
shown in the detail sketch. Be careful not to get the
mortises wider than the shelves are thick. Bevel
the tops of the posts as shown.


Detail of the Magazine Rack
Detail of the Magazine Rack

[56]


Magazine Rack Complete
Magazine Rack Complete

See that the ends of the shelves are square and
smooth, then set a scratch gauge so that the scriber
is just 2 in. from the face of the block and mark this
[57]
distance off each way from the corner of the shelves.
Saw these corners diagonally across as shown, being
careful not to saw off too much.
[58]

The parts can now be assembled. Place all the
parts in position, then pass a rope around each end
and twist it up tightly with a small stick. If this
is properly done, you can now pick up the rack and
handle it in any way you wish. The screws can
now be put in the corners. You can use flat-head
screws and plug the holes, or you can use round-head
blue screws and let the heads project. After
the screws are all in, dress off all unevenness where
the shelves are mortised into the posts, then mark
each shelf and post so that you can put it together
again after the parts are finished. Take the rack
apart and transfer the marks to some part of the
mortises and shelves that will not be covered with
the finish you intend to put on. Apply the finish
you wish to use and when the parts are thoroughly
dry they can be reassembled and your rack will be
complete.

A HALL TREE

When making the hall tree as shown in the accompanying
illustration use quarter-sawed oak if possible,
as this wood is the most suitable for finishing in the
different mission stains. This is a very useful and attractive
piece of mission furniture and is also very
easy to construct. The stock can be purchased
ready cut to length, mill-planed and sandpapered on
four sides as given in the following list:

  • 1 post, 2 by 2 by 59 in.
  • 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 10 in.
  • 8 braces, 7/8 by 2 by 7-1/2 in.
  • 4 arms, 7/8 by 2 by 5-3/4 in.

[59]


Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree
Detail and Finished View of Hall Tree

First square up all the posts and bevel them at the
tops as shown. Then cut the mortises making them
[60]
1/2 in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. Cut the tenons on the
braces to fit these mortises. Be careful to get the distance
between the shoulders of the braces all of the
same length. A good way to do this is to place them
all side by side on a flat surface with the ends square
and lay them all out at once. The top arms can be
made in the same manner. The tenons should fit good
and tight in all the posts.

The parts can now be glued and clamped together.
When they are dry, scrape all the surplus glue from
about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper,
removing all rough spots. Apply the finish
you like best or the one that will match your other
furniture. Purchase a few hooks at a hardware store
and fasten in the upper arms as shown, and the hall
tree is complete.

A TABLE FOR THE DEN

The table shown in the accompanying sketch is
especially appropriate for the den; it might be used
in any other part of the house as well. It may be
built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed
white oak. The wood should be thoroughly seasoned
and devoid of imperfections.

Order the material as follows:

  • 1 top piece, 3/4 in. thick by 36 in. square, S-2-S.
  • 4 legs, 2-1/2 in. square by 30 in. long, S-4-S.
  • 2 upper horizontals, 1-1/8 by 2 by 36 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 lower horizontals, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 35 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 keys, 1/2 by 1 by 5 in., S-2-S.

Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut
the four legs to length. To get the slopes for the
ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay
[61]
out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel
along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.

[62]


Table Completed
Table Completed

The top horizontals have grooves cut on either
side to allow the posts to “set in.” This is to give
the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or
stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and
keyed. That the keys may be alike in size, a good
plan is to make them first, then make the mortises
in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to
the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so,
then to length and joint one edge straight and
square. Next lay off across the key the lines A and
B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and
B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points
[63]
and work this edge of the key to size and shape.
Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise,
in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in.
for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.


Detail of a Den Table
Detail of a Den Table

The most satisfactory finish for mission designs,
and the easiest to apply, is wax. It is an old finish
that was superseded by varnish. Our ancestors used
to make wax polish by “cutting” beeswax with turpentine.
Cut up the beeswax and add to it about
one-third its volume of turpentine. Heat to the boiling
point in a double boiler. Or, melt a quantity
of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine.
Care must be taken that the turpentine
shall not catch fire.

Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased
now-a-days. They require a smooth surface
and a thin application for a successful result. Too
much wax upon a rough surface will produce very
ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries.
These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes.
Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary
if the ordinary wax is properly applied.
1—Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired.
2—If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two
coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a
smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain
12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler.
3—With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax
as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste
form. 4—Allow this to stand five or ten minutes,
then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish.
5—Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat.
[64]



WINDOW SEAT
Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering

[65]

A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT

A portable window seat of neat appearance, which
is designed to take the place of a cedar chest, is
shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken
to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically
airtight and mothproof, providing a place in which
to store extra bedding or furs. The following
list of materials will be needed:

  • 36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.
  • 1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.
  • 32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.
  • 54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.
  • 16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long brass screws.
  • 1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.
  • 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.
  • 2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.
  • 20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.

The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail
the sides and the bottom to the ends, being careful
to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be
dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it
takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly
add to the durability of the box. The box can be
made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends
to posts 2 in. square placed on the inside. Cleats
should also be placed on the inside, at the bottom,
as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the
bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached
with long screws run through from the bottom
of the box.

[66]


Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap
Fig. 2—Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the
Burlap

The green burlap is glued to the outside of the
box. Be careful not to apply too much glue on the
burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried
out on a scrap piece, and when the proper application
of glue is ascertained, applied to one side of the
burlap and stuck on the box. Place the cloth on so
[67].

the weave will run in the same direction on all sides.
The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as
shown in Fig. 2. Care should be taken to make the
mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all
cut and the location of the squares, found, they are
marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed
over the green before the slats are fastened permanently.
The slats are put in place over the burlap
and fastened with small brass screws.

Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing
the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten
under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with
excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads
driven in to hold it in place. The slats can be stained
any color to suit the maker. They should be removed
from the box when being stained so as not
to spot or stain the burlap.

QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE

The mission settee shown in the accompanying
picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak.
The material needed will be as follows:

  • 4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.
  • 12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.

[68]


Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak

On account of the unusual width of the pieces that
go into the makeup of this settee, it will be necessary
to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before
putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause
them to crack open.
[69]

Begin work by making the ends of the settee
first. Cut the posts to length, chamfering both top
and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter
or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and
cut the mortises as shown on the drawing. With
the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the
tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the
slats are to be fitted.

It should be noted that the drawing calls for the
“setting in” of the whole of the ends of the slats,
there being no shoulders. This is much easier and
gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides
of the mortises are carefully cut.

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all these parts
and then put the ends together. In addition to the
glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons
and mortises. These pins may be put in flush
and permanent on the ends of the settee. On the
side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to
project so that they can be removed, and no glue is
used in the joint.

While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare
the rails of front and back. Scrape and sandpaper
these and when the clamps can be removed from
the ends put the whole frame together. The ends
of all projecting tenons are chamfered.

[70]


Detail of the Oak Settee
Detail of the Oak Settee

The illustration shows a loose leather cushion.
There is quite a variety of materials out of which
such a cushion can be made. The best, of course,
is leather. In the highest class of furniture where
loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by
solidly mortising a frame together on which is
woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened
to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the
[71]
cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable
seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for
such a frame. Wood slats may be substituted if
desired.

This piece of furniture will look well if finished
in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from
the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth,
and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper
this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain
has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackluster
or an equivalent.

A SCREEN

In selecting or making up mission furniture for
the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add
to the appearance of a room. The screen shown
in the accompanying illustration consists of a few
parts which are easily put together. The stock
can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded
and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which
should be of dark color, can be purchased at a
dry goods store. The following list of material
will be needed.

  • 6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.
  • 6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.
  • 6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.
  • 3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.
  • 6 yd. of cloth.
  • 4 double-acting hinges.
  • 2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.

Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep
in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in.
rails. Cut out the ends with a compass saw. The
five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges
[72]
of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the
3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.

When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours
the screen frame
can be put together.
Holes for
the screws
should be bored
through the posts
where the 3/4-in.
rails are joined
and a screw
turned into the
end grain of each
rail.

Scrape off all
the surplus glue
and sandpaper all
the parts well.
When this is done
the finish can be
applied. Any one
of the mission
stains can be used
and finished with wax and polished.


Detail of One Section
Detail of One Section

The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each
end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem.
Place the top rail in position and screw it fast.
Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in.
rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of
the screen is finished in the same way.

The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end
of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door.
[73]

The sections can be made up in various ways to
suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board,
or board made up to take the place of plaster
on walls of dwellings, may be substituted, thus forming
a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations.
A piece of this material can be easily cut to
fit the opening in each section.


Screen of Three Sections
Screen of Three Sections

[74]

A MISSION BOOKRACK

The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed
strictly along mission lines. Enough stock
may be found among the scrap, as no piece is over
1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand,
secure the following, cut to exact lengths:

  • 2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished
rack and number both parts of each joint.
There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must
be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly
half the depth of each piece.

First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark
the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to
fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size.
Knife lines must be used for the width and light
gauge lines for the depth of each notch.


Detail of the Bookrack
Detail of the Bookrack

Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers
and ends.

In each end there are four slats which should be
[75]
mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in
place and clamp them with handscrews.

A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post
will prevent the marring of the surface upon which
the rack is to rest.


The Complete Bookrack
The Complete Bookrack

Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look
well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying
the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of
shellac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a
few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour
between applying the coats of wax.

Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied
by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.

A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE

[76]


Detail of the Table
Detail of the Table

This extension table should be made of some hard
wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult
matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid
pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however,
[77]
to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If
the veneering is properly done these will serve the
purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the
white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular
facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the
circle of the size wanted and then veneering the
outer surface of this. Order the following stock:

  • 4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.
  • 1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S;
  • 3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
  • 2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
  • 4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.
  • 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.
  • 2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.

Table for the Dining-Room Set
Table for the Dining-Room Set

[78]

There are various ways of arranging the slides
to work one with the other. Several patented devices
are on the market that permit a ready adjustment
with but little effort and are used extensively
by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do
well to secure a set before he undertakes to work
these slides to shape.

Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay
out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings
are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare
the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping
the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare
the top. After this, assemble this much of the
frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.

Next get the under frame and the slides ready and
attach them as shown. There will be needed plenty
of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it
is fastened to the top, etc.

For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired.
Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded
with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of shellac. Upon
the shellac apply successively several coats of some
good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with
haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice
and crude or linseed oil.

If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the
wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly
when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted
one-half with water. Again sand and then
apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly, and
apply the filler and the varnish as described above.

[79]

AN ARM DINING CHAIR


Armchair of the Dining-Room Set
Armchair of the Dining-Room Set

This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed
oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or
black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies
the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible.
If some amateur craftsman should prefer to
[80]
do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on
the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of
each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to
thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely
in the rough if the work is to be done by hand.
The following is the stock bill:

  • 2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The design shown is for a chair in which the
width of front and back is the same. Also the back
leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial
practice the backs are usually made somewhat
narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted
somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this
construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all
tenons it complicates the problem when the work
is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur
may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring
common chairs. For mission effects the chair
looks well with front and back the same width.

Prepare the front posts first and then the rear.
The rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of
stock specified. By proper planning both pieces may
be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the
mortises.

Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the
tenons. The back rails are to have mortises in their
edges to receive the ends of the slats. Instead of
[81]
tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to
receive the whole end—in other words, house the
ends.

Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and
then the front of the chair. After the glue has set
sufficiently, assemble the remainder of the parts.


Detail of the Armchair
Detail of the Armchair

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper the parts and
then apply the finish.

For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed
upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the
usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas, and
then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather;
the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the
leather with ornamental nails.

[82]

A HALL BENCH

All the stock for this bench should be of 7/8-in.
oak, excepting the slats, which may be of a cheaper
wood. The following list of lumber will be required
to build it:

  • 4 slats, 7/8 by 4 by 17 in., cheap wood.
  • 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1 by 26 in., cheap wood.
  • 4 end rails, 7/8 by 2 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
  • 2 ends, 7/8 by 16 by 16-1/4 in., oak, S-2-S.
  • 2 sides, 7/8 by 4 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.
  • 2 pieces, 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25 in., oak, S-2-S.

Detail of the Hall Bench
Detail of the Hall Bench

Start the work by first cutting the two pieces of
7/8 by 5-1/2 by 25-in. material diagonally 1 in. from
each corner, thus making the legs. The edges are
planed square and the ends should be rounded a
[83]
little so that there will be no splinters projecting.
The legs are mortised 1 in. deep for the side rails.
The tenon ends are cut on the rails, care being
taken to get the right angle and a good fit. These
can now be fastened together, using hot glue on
the entire surface of the joint.


Bench Made of Plain Oak
Bench Made of Plain Oak

While these are drying the ends can be made as
shown in the plan. The 3 by 4-in. holes are cut at
equal distances apart. Be sure that each end is perfectly
square, then glue and dowel the 2-in. strips
at each end. The ends are then glued and nailed
[84]
to the sides, using finishing nails, which are set and
the holes filled with colored putty.

The cleats are now fastened, extra care being
taken when fastening them over the joints where
the legs receive the side rails, as this will help to
strengthen the joints. The slats rest on these cleats
and are placed at equal distances apart.

The bench is now finished, but before applying
the stain, see that all parts are free from glue and
are well sandpapered.

The leather cushion should be the loose kind and
of a shade to harmonize with the finish.

A SEWING TABLE

This convenient and useful table will be much
appreciated by any woman. It has two drawers for
sewing material, and two drop leaves to spread the
work upon.

The following list of material will be needed for
its construction. The sizes given are exact, so if
the stock cannot be bought at a mill ready planed
and squared, a slight allowance must be made for
this.

  • 4 posts, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
  • 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 18 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 leaves, 7/8 by 10 by 18 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4-1/8 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 12-3/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 3 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 14 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 brackets, 7/8 by 3 by 4 in., S-2-S.

Have the surfaces of the legs exactly square with
[85]
each other. The ends must be square with all surfaces,
but need not be planed smooth as neither will
be seen in the finished table.


Sewing Table in Plain Oak
Sewing Table in Plain Oak

Arrange the rails in position. The two rails in
each side and back are placed with the 2-in. surface
out, while the three in the front have the 2-in. surface
[86]
up for the drawers to slide upon. Mark the
tenons, 1 in, by 3/8 in., with a knife and gauge lines
on each end of the rails for the sides and back.
Mark the tenons, 3/4 in. by 7/8 in., as shown in the
sketch, on each end of front rails. Cut all the tenons
with a backsaw and smooth them with a chisel.


Detail of the Sewing Table
Detail of the Sewing Table

Carefully mark the mortises in the legs, taking
measurements for each mortise from the tenon
which is to go into it. Fit together all rails and legs
without glue to detect any errors.

See that the panels for sides and back are squared
up true and the surfaces smooth. Mark the grooves
for the panels in the side and back rails and legs.
Cut the grooves with a chisel or plow plane to a
depth of 1/4 in.

Glue up the joints and clamp the two table sides
[87]
first. While the glue is setting, square up and
smooth the top and two leaves perfectly.

Now glue up the whole table, having set in the
front and back rails and panel. The drawer slides,
two on each side, should next be put in. A nail
through them and into each leg will hold them, as
there is only the weight of the drawers resting on
them. Fasten the top with screws through the rails
from the under side. The leaves are attached with
two 2-in. butt hinges which must be set in flush
with the under surface to prevent a crack showing
between the table top and leaf when the latter is
raised. The small bracket hinged to the panel supports
the open leaf.


Construction of the Drawer
Construction of the Drawer

The drawers are now made. Allow the side to
lap over the front 1/2 in. as shown in sketch and
fasten it with nails. The bottom should be let into
the sides and front 1/4 in., but must not be nailed
to them, because this would cause the drawer to
stick, when the bottom expands.
[88]

Metal rings or wooden knobs will do well for the
drawer pulls.

Stain to any desired shade and finish with a wax
if a dull gloss is wanted, or with one coat of shellac
and two coats of varnish for a highly polished surface.

A SIDE CHAIR


Side Chair of Dining-Room Set
Side Chair of Dining-Room Set

A companion piece to the chair with arms and the
sideboard is the side chair illustrated herewith. It
should be made of the same kind of wood and finished
to correspond with the armchair. Order the
following stock list:

  • 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 piece for back posts, 1-1/2 by 5-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 seat rails, 1 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 lower front and back rails, 5/8 by 2-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 slat, 3/8 by 3 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 13-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Square up the front posts to length. From the
single piece specified cut out the back posts, giving
them the amount of slant indicated in the drawing.
Set these four posts upright in the positions they
are to occupy relative to one another in the finished
piece, and mark off, as with penciled circles, the
approximate locations of mortises. After this, lay
them on the bench side by side, even the lower ends
and locate accurately the ends of the mortises.
Gauge their sides.

Saw the rails to length and lay out the shoulder
lines and the cheeks of the tenons and cut them.
Plan to house the ends of the slats in the back rails.
[89]

[90]

While the drawing shows a chair in which the
front and back are of equal width, the amateur may
make the back narrower if he so desires. A
measurement of a common chair will give the proportions.


Detail of the Side Chair
Detail of the Side Chair

Place the front and the back in the clamps and
after the glue has had time to harden, assemble the
remaining parts. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper
[91]
all the parts, carefully removing any surplus glue.
Wood finish will not “take hold” where any glue
has been allowed to remain.

The seat may be given the same treatment as suggested
for the armchair. This should not be done,
however, until the finish has been applied.

A simple finish is obtained by the application of
a coat of paste filler of a soft brown color, if oak has
been used. Apply and clean this off in the manner
directed by the manufacturers and after it has had
24 hours in which to harden, sand it lightly with
No. 00 paper. Over this apply a thin coat of
shellac. Allow this to harden, then sandpaper
lightly with fine paper. Upon the shellac apply several
coats of some good rubbing wax. Follow the
directions that are to be found upon the cans, being
careful not to apply too much at a time. If too
much wax is applied, it stays in the small pores
of the wood and produces an ugly chalk-like
appearance.

ANOTHER PIANO BENCH

The piano bench shown is best made of black walnut
or oak and should be finished in the natural
color for walnut, but stained some rich brown for
oak.

The following pieces will be needed:

  • 1 top, 1 by 15-1/2 by 38-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 legs, 1 by 14-1/2 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 37 in., S-2-S.

The keys can be secured from the waste that will
be cut off from the other parts.
[92]

Square up the top in the usual manner to the size
indicated in the working drawing. In a similar
manner square up the stretcher to width and length.

There will be no need to square the ends of the
rails as they are to be cut off on a slant. Square up
the sides or edges and then lay off and cut the slanting
ends, smoothing them with the plane. Lay off
and work the shape on their under edges.



Detail of the Piano Bench

The ends are best laid off by means of a template
or pattern for which a piece of rather heavy paper
will do. Lay off the main dimensions on a center
line. Sketch in the curve of the edge after the slant
has been laid out. Lay out the form at the bottom,
then fold the paper along the center line and trace
the other half. With this pattern lay off the outline
upon the wood. For convenience in laying out
the grooves for the rails and the mortise for the
tenon on the stretcher, it is well to work a face edge
upon each leg and allow this to remain until these
joints have been made and the parts fitted. The
[93]
shape at the bottom of the leg is merely suggestive
and may be modified as desired.

Lay out and work the tenons on the stretcher.
Then lay out and work the grooves upon the rails.
Each side of each rail is grooved 1/8 in, to allow the
leg to be recessed. This is done to give the bench
the bracing that is needed to make it stand firmly.
Work the grooves in the legs and the mortises for
the rails.


Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak
Piano Bench in Quarter-Sawed Oak

It should be noted that the mortise for the key in
the stretcher must be laid out before the shoulders
and cheeks of the tenon on which the mortise is
made are cut off. Otherwise there would be no place
to put the gauge in marking the sides of the mortise
for the key.

Thoroughly scrape all the parts and then assemble
them. No glue is needed. The rails are held in
place by dowel pins, the heads of which are allowed
[94]
to project slightly and rounded so as to give an ornamental
effect. The top is attached by means of
small angle irons or by means of blocks and screws
fastened to the corners made by top and rails.

ANOTHER SCREEN

The screen shown in the accompanying illustration
is made of burlap and plain-sawed oak. The
stock list follows:

  • 2 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 40 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 base pieces, 3 by 3 by 12-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 horizontals, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 38 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 horizontal, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 vertical, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 20 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 braces, 1-1/8 by 4-1/4 by 6-1/2 in., S-2-S.

The two base pieces may be shaped first. The
drawing shows the form and the dimensions. Make
use of a face edge in laying out the mortises in the
base pieces for the uprights, before these face edges
are removed to make the slanting sides.

Work the verticals to length, laying out and cutting
the tenons at the bottoms, and shaping the tops
as shown.

Lay out and shape the three horizontals as shown,
working the tenons upon the ends of each and the
mortises in the lower two for the tenons of the middle
vertical.

For the braces, secure a face edge on each piece
and square one end of each to that. Lay off the
curve free-hand upon one block and cut it out. Use
this block as a pattern or template to lay off the
others.

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all the parts,
[95]
then assemble them, using clamps and good hot
glue. Take care to see that there is no warp in the
frame as it lies in the clamps. After the glue on the
frame has hardened, remove the clamps and attach
the base blocks and the braces. The braces are secured
by means of round-head screws.


Plain-Oak Frame with Burlap Panels
Plain-Oak Frame with
Burlap Panels

Remove the surplus glue and then apply a finish
as desired.

For the paneling, frames will be needed about
which to fasten the burlap. These may be made of
[96]
1/2-in, soft wood and the following pieces will be
necessary:

  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 8 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 pieces, 1/2 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.

Make these frames enough smaller than the openings
they are to occupy to allow for burlap and
tacks. These frames are held in place by putting
fixed nails in the top of each frame before the burlap
is attached. Holes are bored in the rails to correspond
to them. The lower edges of the frames
are held in place by nails inserted up through the
rails upon which the frames rest.


Detail of the Frame
Detail of the Frame

[97]

A FOLDING CARD TABLE

The accompanying sketch shows the details of a
card table that can be folded up and carried about
or stored away when not in use. We would advise
making two tables at the same time, as the material
for both can be purchased nearly as cheaply as for
one. The material necessary for making one table
is given in the following list:

  • 1 piece, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 27-1/2 in., basswood or poplar.
  • 2 pieces, 7/8 by 1-3/16 by 29-1/4 in., basswood or poplar.
  • 4 legs, 1 in. square, 24-3/4 in. long; oak.
  • 4 pieces, 1 in. square, 5 in. long; oak.
  • 4 side pieces, 3/8 by 1-3/8 by 29-5/8 in.; oak.
  • 4 pieces, 27-1/2 in. long, single groove electric wire moulding with
  • batten.
  • 1 piece cardboard, 1/8 in. thick, 29-1/4 in. square.
  • 4 pieces brass rod, 3-16 in. diameter, 15 in. long.
  • 30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled
  • 3/16 in.
  • 4 brass corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.
  • 2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head brass screws, 3/4 in. long.
  • 4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.
  • 1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.
  • 1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).
  • 1 pt. wood stain.
  • 3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.
  • Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.

[98]


Detail of the Card Table
Detail of the Card Table

Begin by squaring up the four legs making them
all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in. square. Also square up
the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing.
These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in.
holes about 1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each
for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins. Measure back 1-1/2 in.
from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in.
deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each
leg, 3/4 in. long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in.
hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top
as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together
with glue and brads, being careful to get them
[99]
square with each other. After the glue is set bore
a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 in. from the
edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the
corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then
stain and polish.


Card Table Ready for Use
Card Table Ready for Use

Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch
on a level surface with the 7/8-in. edge up, place the
cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces, using
6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it
fast also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with
brads. The four pieces of electric wire moulding
should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the
same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood
about 4 in. long in the groove at each end of the
moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next
take the thin batten or covering strip that comes
[100]
with the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center,
6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in.
from the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in.
wide from one hole to the other in the center as
shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot
smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding
with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a
point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill
1/4-in. holes through the moulding at the small ends
of the slots. These are for the ends of the brace
rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they
are open. Tack the two pieces of moulding marked
F and J on the remaining edges of the cardboard
with the slots facing in and the large holes of the
slots at opposite sides, then place the other two
pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of these, or just the
length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots
facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast
with 4-oz. tacks. Use brads at the ends and be
careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This
part of the table can now be stained or painted the
same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also
be stained at this time.

The ends of the brass rods can be bent in a vise.
One end should be 1 in. long and should be square
with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to center
and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at
a slight angle out from square. Just at this bend
raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer
on. Now place five of the copper washers on the
1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will
not slip off. They should be loose so that they
will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on
the other end and put the end of the rod through
[101]
the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side,
place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet
down the end.


The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top
The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top

To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one
of the braces and the washers in the large hole in
the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in. hole in the
crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then
drive an oak dowel or rod into each end. This is
the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When
the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should
spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock
the leg in place. Rubber tips should be put on the
bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden buttons
should be made and fastened to the cardboard as
[102]
shown at K for locking the legs when they are
closed.

The felt can now be put on the top of the table.
Stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely
to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in.
side pieces and the brass corners with the small
brass screws as shown on the drawing, and the table
is complete.

MAGAZINE STAND


Stand Complete
Stand Complete

If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting
out the material used in this piece of furniture,
it can be purchased from a mill already planed,
sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any
kind of wood can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak
with a mission stain and waxed, gives the best appearance.
The following pieces will be needed:

  • 2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.

[103]

Take the four shelves and line them up with their
backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly.
Mark the places for the slats across the edges of the
shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends.
Use a square to get the lines at right angles to the
surface. Another line is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first,
or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves
are marked in the same manner, beginning from the
back edges and making the first line 1/2 in. from
them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or
the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends,
[104]
1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and
another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This
will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of space respectively
from the front edges of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves.
Shift the shelves so they will be even on the front
edges and mark them the same as the back. Make
a 1/4-in. depth mark on all edges between the lines
and cut this material out. This can be done while
the shelves are clamped together.


Detail of Stand
Detail of Stand

[105]

Place the shelves on end in their order and start
by screwing on the back slats on both ends first,
then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand
down and put on the two back slats. Attach the
two front slats on the top shelf first. Then bore the
places for the remaining holes and turn in the
screws. This will bend the slats into place. The
two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the
shelves without letting them in, making the spaces
equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf
and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart,
sandpapered and stained.

A TABOURET

The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman
design as shown in the accompanying illustration
can be purchased from the mill ready cut to
length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is
the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to
secure. Order the following pieces:

  • 4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.
  • 1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.
  • 4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.
  • 4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.

First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at
an angle of 30 deg. and hollow out the lower part
of the legs as shown in the detail sketch. Clamp
them together with the ends square and lay out the
mortises all at once. Cut the tenons on the rails to
fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same manner
as the posts so as to get them all the same distance
between shoulders. The upper rails should be
cut out underneath as shown.
[106]


Detail of Tabouret
Detail of Tabouret

[107]

The rails and posts can now be glued together.
Be careful to get them joined perfectly square.
When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown.
This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws
from the inside. Remove all surplus glue from
about the joints, as the finish will not take where
there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper
and remove all rough spots, then apply the
finish you like best.


Finished Tabouret
Finished Tabouret

[108]

[109]

A PORCH SWING


Complete Porch Swing
Complete Porch Swing

The porch swing shown in the illustration can be
made of southern pine at a very moderate cost. It
should be suspended by rustless black chains and
eyebolts passing through the lower rails. If cushions
are desired they can be made up quite cheaply
of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.

These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought
at the mill:

  • 2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.
  • 5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 ft. flooring for bottom.
  • 2 cleats, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 57 in., S-4-S.

Plane and square the ends of all the rails and
posts. Lay out the lap joints for the back rails and
posts. Use a knife line for this and saw exactly to
the line to avoid trimming with the chisel. When
sawing be careful to cut exactly halfway through
the thickness of each piece. In the same way make
the lap joints between the front rail and posts.
Have the two end rails exactly the same length and
proceed to fasten the front and back posts to them,
using 4-in. lag screws and washers. Bore through
the posts and part way into the ends of the end rails
for the lag screws.

[110]


Detail of the Porch Swing
Detail of the Porch Swing

The slats are mortised 1/2 in. into the back rails,
or a 3/8-in. groove may be planed in these rails, the
entire distance between joints, to receive the slats.
A rabbeting plane will be needed for this. The arm
rests lap over the back posts and are held to them
[111]
with 2-in. round-head screws. They may be fastened
to the top of the front posts with round-head
screws or dowel pins.

Ordinary pine flooring makes a good, tight seat,
or 7/8-in. board may be used if desired. Fasten the
cleats, which support the seat, to the front and back
lower rails with 1-1/2-in. screws.

To bring out the beautiful grain of southern pine,
stain it brown or black and finish with two coats of
waterproof varnish.

A FOOT WARMER

This foot warmer is so constructed that two
bricks may be heated and placed inside of the stool.

Oak is the most suitable wood to use, and the following
pieces will be needed:

  • 4 legs, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 8 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 side rails, 7/8 by 3 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 top pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 bottom piece, 7/8 by 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 piece asbestos, 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
  • 4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.
  • 1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.
  • 2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.

The work may be started by shaping the four
legs and cutting the mortises for the rails. Tenons
are cut on the ends of the rails to fit in the mortises
made in the posts. They are then glued together,
care being taken to get the stool perfectly
square.

The top frame can now be made and covered with
the sheet of brass. The frame has mitered corners
and the inside of the frame must be even with
the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to
[112]
the stool with the two hinges on the back and the
elbow catch on the front side to keep it closed.


Detail of the Foot Warmer
Detail of the Foot Warmer

The design on the brass can be made by tacking
it on a board, laying out the design and piercing
the background with some sharp-pointed tool.
This leaves the design raised with a smooth
surface.

The brass can now be removed from the board,
[113]
placed on the frame and fastened with the ornamental
tacks.

Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside
of the rails with asbestos; then place the bricks
on the inside of the stool. Both should fit up tight
to the brass when the bottom is in place.


Oak Stool with Brass Cover
Oak Stool with Brass Cover

The stool is now ready for the finish, which can
be of some stain to match the other furniture in
the room where it is to be used.

A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM

This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood
and finished to match other pieces of furniture in
the room, but as it is of mission design, oak is the
most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain
so nicely.
[114]

The material required is as follows:

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.

Detail of Plate Rack
Detail of Plate Rack

This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some
allowance is made for trimming on the edges and
ends.

Begin work by squaring up the posts to length
and beveling the top ends, then trim the back and
[115]
side boards. These are nailed together, lapping the
back board over the side board. The posts are fastened
with dowels placed at equal distances apart.
Hot glue is used in the joints.


Dining-Room Plate Rack
Dining-Room Plate Rack

The four shelves are now put in place. These
are notched out to fit around the posts and are
nailed and glued.

While the glue is hardening on these, the plate
rails can be cut. These have 7/8-in grooves near the
front edge to receive the lower edge of the plates
when resting against the two strips placed 5 in.
above the plate rails and far enough back to prevent
the plates from falling forward.
[116]

The rails are fastened to the two sides with
dowels, three at each end being sufficient. The two
strips fit in mortises cut in the side pieces. The
top is then put on. This fits around the posts and
rests on the sides. Hooks on which to hang cups
are placed under the rails. All parts are thoroughly
sandpapered before the stain is applied.

A MISSION SIDEBOARD


Sideboard for the Dining-Room Set
Sideboard for
the Dining-Room Set

The sideboard is a piece designed to go with the
armchair and side chair with similar paneling design.
Like these chairs the sideboard should be
[117]
made of hard wood and should be similarly finished.
The drawer pulls, if not made of wood, should be
of such metal and design as to harmonize with the
mission style. Wrought-iron effects in plain outlines
are appropriate.

Drawer sides, bottoms and backs may be made
of some soft wood, such as yellow poplar. The
small top drawer may be lined with ooze leather for
holding silverware.

Obtain the following stock:

  • 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 posts, 2 by 2 by 39 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top, 1 by 23 by 58 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 plate rails, 1/2 by 2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 plate rail, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 58 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 21 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 slats, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 panels, 3/8 by 18-3/4 by 10 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 back rail, 7/8 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3-1/8 by 54 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back rail, 7/8 by 3 by 54 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 back stiles, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back panel, 3/8 by 10 by 24-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 back panel, 3/8 by 11-1/2 by 53 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 back panels, 3/8 by 11 by 11 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 3 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 6 by 52-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 drawer ends, 1/2 by 3 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
  • 4 drawer ends, 1/2 by 4 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
  • 4 drawer ends, 5/8 by 6 by 20 in., S-4-S, poplar.
  • 3 drawer backs, 3/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
  • 2 drawer backs, 3/8 by 6 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
  • 3 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 24 in., S-2-S, poplar.
  • 2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 20 by 52 in., S-2-S, poplar.
  • 2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
  • 10 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 middle verticals, 3/4 by 22 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • Drawer guides can be made from scrap stock.

A detailed description is hardly necessary for
such a piece of work as this. Anyone capable of
[118]
building it, will know the order of the different operations
that are required in its construction.


Detail of the Sideboard
Detail of the Sideboard

It may be said that the two back panels at either
side of the small drawers may be filled with beveled
plate glass instead of wood if one so choose.
[119]

Figure

Transcriber’s Notes:

  • Moved table of contents to the head of the document
  • Added a List of Illustrations
  • Folio 4: “Millplaned” changed to “Mill-planed”
  • Folio 34: Started new paragraph at “The bottom board….”
  • Added captions to Illustrations:
  • Folio 33: “Umbrella Stand”
  • Folio 34: “Detail of Umbrella Stand”
  • Folio 54″ “Detail of Pedestal”

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