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Joannes Evelyn Arm^r

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Printed in the United States of America

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Publisher’s Note

This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of
1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and those
noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt has been
made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit has been
retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have been carefully
followed; also the old-style S [ſ] has been retained. Much of the
flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; and one should
remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a man of letters, and
if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, they are as amusing a
conceit as the French and German complacencies of a more recent
generation.

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Foreword to Acetaria

John Evelyn, famous for his “Diary,” was a
friend and contemporary of Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public
servants who had held minor offices in the government. But, while Pepys’
diary is sparkling and redolent of the free manners of the Restoration,
Evelyn’s is the record of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to
gardens, to sculpture and architecture, rather than to the gaieties of
contemporary social life. Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was
“county.” He represents the combination of public servant and country
gentleman which has been the supreme achievement of English culture.

Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, “I must observe
that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a course of
inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence.”

Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons was
brought to the King’s notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk,
was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the University of
Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and civic affairs and
was commissioner for improving the streets and buildings [pg] in London. He had charge of the sick and
wounded of the Dutch War and also, with the fineness of character typical
of his kind, he remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was
also active in organizing the Royal Society and became its first
secretary.

In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing his
own and his brother’s estates. He translated several French books, one of
them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled “The French Gardener;
instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees.” Evelyn
undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called “Les Delices de la
Campagne.” Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons,
consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this book
which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such as Acetaria.
He also translated Jean de la Quintinie’s “The Compleat Gardener.” His
“Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees” was written as a protest against
the destruction of trees in England being carried on by the glass
factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded in inducing landowners
to plant millions of trees.

The list of Evelyn’s writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject
matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from [pg] the Greek, political and historical
pamphlets, and a book called “Fumifugium or the inconvenience of the Aer
and Smoke of London dissipated,” in which he suggests that sweet-smelling
trees should be planted to purify the air of London. He also wrote a book
called “Sculpture, or the History of Chalcography and Engraving in
Copper.”

Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn
grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first
advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing foods
without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he
collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic
comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the little
book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth edition of
the “Kalendarium Hortense,” a gardener’s almanac.

The material for Acetaria was gathered as early as 1679 with the
idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. The
Plan of a Royal Garden, was Evelyn’s outline for that ambitious
work.

The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical for
today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are [pg] cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for
flavoring soups, egg dishes, “salletts” and puddings. The eggs with sweet
herbs prepared in ramikins and the pudding flavored with the petals of
calendulas are particularly good.

The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It also
shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign of
Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn’s home, the spirit of scientific
investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. Evelyn
supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to prepare new
dishes.

Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it is
not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with a
leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse trotting
through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we read, we can
almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the family assembled
around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or again we can almost
smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy rows in the well-tilled
and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.

Helen M. Fox

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Facsimile of
Title Page of First Edition

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To the Right
Honourable
JOHN
Lord Somers
of Evesham

Lord High-Chancellor of England,
and President of the
Royal-Society.

My Lord,

T he Idea
and Plan of the Royal-Society having been firſt
conceiv’d and delineated by a Great and Learned Chancellor,
which High Office your Lordſhip deservedly bears; not as an Acquiſition
of Fortune, but your Intellectual Endowments; [pg]
Conſpicuous (among other Excellencies) by the Inclination Your Lordſhip
diſcovers to promote Natural Knowledge: As it juſtifies
the Diſcernment of that Aſſembly, to pitch upon Your
Lordſhip for their Preſident, ſo does it no leſs
diſcover the Candor, yea, I preſume to ſay, the Sublimity
of your Mind, in ſo generouſly honoring them with your Acceptance
of the Choice they have made.

A ¹Chancellor,
and a very Learned Lord, was the Firſt who honoured the Chair;
and a no leſs Honorable and Learned Chancellor, reſigns
it to Your Lordſhip: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardſhips
the Society [pg] has hitherto gone
through; it has thro’ the Favour and Protection of its Preſidents,
not only preſerv’d its Reputation from the Malevolence of Enemies and
Detracters, but gone on Culminating, and now Triumphantly in
Your Lordſhip: Under whoſe propitious Influence, I am perſwaded,
it may promiſe it ſelf That, which indeed has hitherto
been wanting, to juſtifie the Glorious Title it bears of a
ROYAL SOCIETY. The Emancipating it from ſome Remaining and Diſcouraging
Circumſtances, which it as yet labours under; among which, that of a
Precarious and unſteady Abode, is not the leaſt.

This Honor was reſerv’d for Your Lordſhip; and an Honor,
permit me [pg] to call it, not at all
unworthy the Owning of the Greateſt Person living: Namely, the Eſtabliſhing
and Promoting Real Knowledge; and (next to what is Divine)
truly ſo called; as far, at leaſt, as Humane Nature extends
towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire beyond the Land
of Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult Qualities,
and other Inadequate Notions; which, by their Obſtreperous and
Noiſy Diſputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men
from adventuring on further Diſcoveries, confin’d them in a lazy
Acquieſcence, and to be fed with Fantaſms and fruitleſs
Speculations, which ſignifie nothing to the ſpecifick
Nature of Things, [pg] solid and uſeful
knowledge; by the Inveſtigation of Cauſes, Principles,
Energies, Powers, and Effects of Bodies, and Things
Viſible; and to improve them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.

My Lord, That which the Royal Society needs to accompliſh
an entire Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumſtances more eaſie)
capable to ſubſiſt with Honor, and to reach indeed the
Glorious Ends of its Inſtitution, is an Eſtabliſhment
in a more Settl’d, Appropriate, and Commodious Place; having
hitherto (like the Tabernacle in the Wilderneſs) been
only Ambulatory for almoſt Forty Years: But Solomon
built the Firſt Temple; and what forbids us to hope, [pg] that as Great a Prince may build Solomon’s
Houſe, as that Great Chancellor (one of Your Lordſhip’s
Learned Predeceſſors) had deſign’d the Plan;
there being nothing in that Auguſt and Noble Model impoſſible,
or beyond the Power of Nature and Learned Induſtry.

Thus, whilſt King Solomon’s Temple was Conſecrated
to the God of Nature, and his true Worſhip; This
may be Dedicated, and ſet apart for the Works of Nature;
deliver’d from those Illuſions and Impoſtors, that are ſtill
endeavouring to cloud and depreſs the True, and Subſtantial
Philoſophy: A ſhallow and Superficial Inſight,
wherein (as that Incomparable Perſon rightly obſerves) having
[pg] made ſo many Atheiſts:
whilſt a profound and thorow Penetration into her Receſſes
(which is the Buſineſs of the Royal Society) would
lead Men to the Knowledge, and Admiration of the Glorious
Author.

And now, My Lord, I expect ſome will wonder what my Meaning
is, to uſher in a Trifle, with ſo much Magnificence, and
end at last in a fine Receipt for the Dreſſing of
a Sallet with an Handful of Pot-Herbs! But yet, My Lord,
this Subject, as low and deſpicable as it appears, challenges
a Part of Natural History, and the Greateſt Princes have
thought it no Diſgrace, not only to make it their Diverſion,
but their Care, and to promote and encourage it in the midſt
[pg] of their weightieſt Affairs: He
who wrote of the Cedar of Libanus, wrote alſo of the Hyſop
which grows upon the Wall.

To verifie this, how much might I ſay of Gardens and Rural
Employments, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular Buſineſs,
and that in the Eſtimate of as Great Men as any Age has produc’d! And
it is of ſuch Great Souls we have it recorded; That after they
had perform’d the Nobleſt Exploits for the Publick, they ſometimes
chang’d their Scepters for the Spade, and their Purple
for the Gardiner’s Apron. And of theſe, ſome, My Lord,
were Emperors, Kings, Conſuls, Dictators, and Wiſe Stateſmen;
who amidſt the most [pg] important
Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all their Pomp and Dignity in
Exchange of this Learned Pleaſure: Nor that of the moſt refin’d
Part of Agriculture (the Philoſophy of the Garden
and Parterre only) but of Herbs, and wholeſom Sallets,
and other plain and uſeful Parts of Geoponicks, and Wrote Books
of Tillage and Husbandry; and took the Plough-Tackle
for their Banner, and their Names from the Grain and
Pulſe they ſow’d, as the Marks and Characters of the
higheſt Honor.

But I proceed no farther on a Topic ſo well known to Your Lordſhip:
Nor urge I Examples of ſuch Illuſtrious Perſons laying aſide
their Grandeur, and even of deſerting their Stations; [pg] (which would infinitely prejudice the
Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) But to ſhew
how conſiſent the Diverſions of the Garden and Villa
were, with the higheſt and buſieſt Employment of the Commonwealth,
and never thought a Reproch, or the leaſt Diminution to the Gravity
and Veneration due to their Perſons, and the Noble Rank they held.

Will Your Lordſhip give me Leave to repeat what is ſaid of the
Younger Pliny, (Nephew to the Naturaliſt) and whom I
think we may parallel with the Greateſt of his time (and perhaps of
any ſince) under the Worthieſt Emperor the Roman
world ever had? A Perſon of vaſt Abilities, Rich, [pg] and High in his Maſter’s Favour; that
ſo Husbanded his time, as in the Midſt of the weightieſt
Affairs, to have Anſwer’d, and by his ²Example,
made good what I have ſaid on this Occaſion. The Ancient and beſt
Magiſtrates of Rome allow’d but the Ninth Day for the
City and Publick Buſineſs; the reſt for the
Country and the Sallet Garden: There were then fewer Cauſes
indeed at the Bar; but never greater Juſtice, nor better
Judges and Advocates. And ’tis hence obſerved, that we
hardly find a Great and Wise Man among the Ancients, qui nullos habuit
hortos, [pg] excepting only Pomponius
Atticus; wilſt his Dear Cicero profeſſes, that
he never laid out his Money more readily, than in the purchaſing of
Gardens, and thoſe ſweet Retirements, for which he ſo
often left the Roſtra (and Court of the Greateſt and moſt
flouriſhing State of the World) to viſit, prune, and water them
with his own Hands.

But, My Lord, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a Gardiner
ought not to be ſo bold. The preſent I humbly make your Lordſhip,
is indeed but a Sallet of Crude Herbs: But there is among
them that which was a Prize at the Iſthmian Games; and
Your Lordſhip knows who it was both accepted, and rewarded as deſpicable
[pg] an Oblation of this kind. The Favor I
humbly beg, is Your Lordſhip’s Pardon for this Preſumption. The
Subject is mean, and requires it, and my Reputation in
danger; should Your Lordſhip hence ſuſpect that one could
never write ſo much of dreſſing Sallets, who minded
anything ſerious, beſides the gratifying a Senſual Appetite
with a Voluptuary Apician Art.

Truly, My Lord, I am ſo far from deſigning to promote thoſe
Supplicia Luxuriæ, (as Seneca calls them) by what I
have here written; that were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if
not altogether to their Priſtine Diet, yet to a much more wholſome
and temperate than is now in Faſhion: And what if they find me
[pg] like to ſome who are eager after
Hunting and other Field-Sports, which are Laborious Exerciſes?
and Fiſhing, which is indeed a Lazy one? who, after all
their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: For
ſome ſuch I have known: And tho’ I cannot affirm ſo of my
ſelf, (when a well dreſt and excellent Sallet is before
me) I am yet a very moderate Eater of them. So as to this Book-Luxury,
I can affirm, and that truly what the Poet ſays of himſelf
(on a leſs innocent Occaſion) Laſciva pagina, vita
proba. God forbid, that after all I have advanc’d in Praiſe of Sallets,
I ſhould be thought to plead for the Vice I cenſure, and chuſe
that of Epicurus for my Lemma; In hac arte [pg] conſenui; or to have ſpent
my time in nothing elſe. The Plan annext to theſe Papers,
and the Apparatus made to ſuperſtruct upon it, would
acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on Sallets only.
What I humbly offer Your Lordſhip, is (as I ſaid) Part of Natural
Hiſtory, the Product of Horticulture, and the Field,
dignified by the moſt illuſtrious, and ſometimes tilled Laureato
Vomere; which, as it concerns a Part of Philoſophy, I may
(without Vanity) be allow’d to have taken ſome Pains in Cultivating,
as an inferior Member of the Royal Society.

But, My Lord, wilſt You read on (if at leaſt You vouchſafe
me that Honor to read at all) I am conſcious [pg]
I rob the Publick of its moſt Precious Moments.

I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordſhip’s Pardon: Nor indeed
needed I to have ſaid half this, to kindle in Your Breaſt, that
which is already ſhining there (Your Lordſhip’s Eſteem of
the Royal Society) after what You were pleas’d to Expreſs in
ſuch an Obliging manner, when it was lately to wait upon Your Lordſhip;
among whom I had the Honor to be a Witneſs of Your Generous, and
Favourable Acceptance of their Addreſſes, who am,

My Lord,             

Your Lordſhip’s Moſt Humble       

and Moſt Obedient Servant,   
JOHN EVELYN.

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THE PREFACE

T he Favourable
Entertainment which the Kalendar has found, encouraging the
Bookſeller to adventure upon a Ninth Impreſſion, I
could not refuſe his Requeſt of my Reviſing, and Giving
it the beſt Improvement I was capable, to an Inexhauſtible
Subject, as it regards a Part of Horticulture; and offer ſome
little Aid to ſuch as love a Diverſion ſo Innocent and
Laudable. There are thoſe of late, who have arrogated, and given the
Glorious Title of Compleat and Accompliſh’d Gardiners, to
what they have Publiſh’d; as if there were nothing wanting, nothing
more remaining, or farther to be expected from the Field; and that
Nature had been quite emptied of all her fertile Store: Whilſt thoſe
who thus magnifie their Diſcoveries, have after all, penetrated but a
very little Way into this Vaſt, Ample, and as yet, Unknown Territory;
Who ſee not, that it would ſtill require the Revolution of many
Ages; deep, and long Experience, for any Man to Emerge that
Perfect, and Accompliſh’d Artiſt Gardiner they boaſt
themſelves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and
far extended Limits of the Vegetable [pg]
Kingdom, ſo incomprehenſible is the Variety it every Day
produces, of the moſt Uſeful, and Admirable of all the Aſpectable
Works of God; ſince almoſt all we ſee, and
touch, and taſte, and ſmell, eat and drink,
are clad with, and defended (from the Greateſt Prince
to the Meaneſt Peaſant) is furniſhed from that
Great and Univerſal Plantation, Epitomiz’d in our Gardens,
highly worth the Contemplation of the moſt Profound Divine, and
Deepeſt Philosopher.

I ſhould be aſham’d to acknowledge how little I have
advanced, could I find that ever any Mortal Man from Adam, Noah,
Solomon, Ariſtotle, Theophraſtus, Dioſcorides, and the
reſt of Nature’s Interpreters, had ever arriv’d to the perfect
Knowledge of any one Plant, or Vulgar Weed whatſoever:
But this perhaps may yet poſſibly be reſerv’d for another
State of Things, and a ³longer Day; that is,
When Time ſhall be no more, but Knowledge ſhall be encreas’d.

We have heard of one who ſtudied and contemplated the Nature of
Bees only, for Sixty Years: After which, you will not wonder,
that a Perſon of my Acquaintance, ſhould have ſpent
[pg] almoſt Forty, in
Gathering and Amaſſing Materials for an Hortulan Deſign,
to ſo enormous an Heap, as to fill ſome Thouſand Pages;
and yet be comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay,
within the Square of leſs than One (ſkilfully Planted and
Cultivated) ſufficient to furniſh, and entertain his Time and
Thoughts all his Life long, with a moſt Innocent, Agreeable, and Uſeful
Employment. But you may juſtly wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it
too, with that Reproach, This Man began to build, but was not able to
finiſh! This has been the Fate of that Undertaking; and I dare
promiſe, will be of whoſoever imagines (without the Circumſtances
of extraordinary Aſſistance, and no ordinary Expence) to purſue
the Plan, erect, and finiſh the Fabrick as it ought to
be.

But this is that which Abortives the Perfection of the moſt
Glorious and Uſeful Undertakings; the Unſatiable Coveting to
Exhauſt all that ſhould, or can be ſaid upon every Head: If
ſuch a one have any thing elſe to mind, or do in the World, let
me tell him, he thinks of Building too late; and rarely find we any, who
care to ſuperſtruct upon the Foundation of another, and whoſe
Ideas are alike. There ought therefore to be as many Hands, and
Subſidiaries to ſuch a Deſign (and thoſe
Matters too) as there are [pg]
diſtinct Parts of the Whole (according to the ſubſequent
Table) that thoſe who have the Means and Courage, may (tho’
they do not undertake the Whole) finiſh a Part at leaſt,
and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and Conſummate
Work indeed.

Of One or Two of these, I attempted only a
Specimen in my SILVA and the KALENDAR; Imperfect, I
ſay, because they are both capable of Great Improvements: It is not
therefore to be expected (Let me uſe the Words of an Old, and
Experienced Gardiner) Cuncta me dicturum, quae vaſtitas ejus
ſcientiæ contineret, ſed plurima; nam illud in unius
hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque eſt ulla Diſciplina
aut Ars, quæ ſingulari conſummata ſit ingenio.

May it then ſuffice aliquam partem tradidiſſe, and
that I have done my Endeavour.

Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean,
concerning Gardening:) But this is not a Place to Expatiate,
deterr’d, as I have long ſince been, from ſo bold an Enterprize,
as the Fabrick I mentioned. I content my ſelf then with an Humble
Cottage, and a Simple Potagere, Appendant to the [pg] Calendar; which, Treating only (and that
briefly) of the Culture of Moderate Gardens; Nothing ſeems
to me, ſhou’d be more Welcome and Agreeable, than whilſt
the Product of them is come into more Requeſt and Uſe
amongſt us, than heretofore (beſide what we call, and diſtinguiſh
by the Name of Fruit) I did annex ſome particular
Directions concerning S A L L E T S.

[pg]

[pg]

THE

PLAN
OF
A
ROYAL GARDEN:

Deſcribing, and Shewing the Amplitude, and Extent of
that Part of Georgicks, which belongs to Horticulture.

In Three Books

BOOK I.

Chap. I. Of Principles and Elements in general.

Chap. II. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; Fire, Air,
Water; Earth.

Chap. III. Of the Celeſtial Influences, and
particularly of the Sun, Moon, and of the Climates.

[pg] Chap. IV. Of the Four Annual
Seasons.

Chap. V. Of the Natural Mould and Soil of a Garden.

Chap. VI. Of Compoſts, and Stercoration, Repaſtination,
Dreſſing and Stirring the Earth and Mould
of a Garden.

BOOK II.

Chap. I. A Garden Derived and Defin’d; its Dignity,
Diſtinction, and Sorts.

Chap. II. Of a Gardiner, how to be qualify ‘d, regarded
and rewarded; his Habitation, Cloathing, Diet, Under-Workmen
and Aſſistants.

Chap. III. Of the Inſtruments belonging to a Gardiner;
their various Uſes, and Machanical Powers.

Chap. IV. Of the Terms us’d, and affected by Gardiners.

Chap. V. Of Encloſing, Fencing, Plotting, and diſpoſing
of the Ground; and of Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens,
&c.

Chap. VI. Of a Seminary, Nurſeries; and of Propagating
Trees, Plants and Flowers, Planting and Tranſplanting,
&c.

Chap. VII. Of Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks
and Emboſſments.

[pg] Chap. VIII. Of Groves,
Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, Cloſe-Walks, Galleries,
Pavilions, Portico’s, Lanterns, and other Relievo’s; of Topiary
and Hortulan Architecture.

Chap. IX. Of Fountains, Jetto’s, Caſcades, Rivulets, Piſcinas,
Canals, Baths, and other Natural, and Artificial Water-works.

Chap. X. Of Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices,
Ventiducts, Conſervatories, of Ice and Snow, and
other Hortulan Refreſhments.

Chap. XI. Of Statues, Buſts, Obelisks, Columns, Inſcriptions,
Dials, Vaſa’s, Perſpectives, Paintings, and other Ornaments.

Chap. XII. Of Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres, Artificial Echo’s,
Automata and Hydraulic Musck.

Chap. XIII. Of Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Inſects, &c.

Chap. XIV. Of Verdures, Perennial Greens, and Perpetual
Springs.

Chap. XV. Of Orangeries, Oporotheca’s, Hybernacula, Stoves,
and Conſervatories of Tender Plants and Fruits, and how
to order them.

Chap. XVI. Of the Coronary Garden: Flowers and Rare
Plants, how they are to be Raiſed, Governed and Improved;
and how the Gardiner is to keep his Regiſter.

[pg] Chap. XVII. Of the Philoſophical
Medical Garden.

Chap. XVIII. Of Stupendous and Wonderful Plants.

Chap. XIX. Of the Hort-Yard and Potagere; and what Fruit-Trees,
Olitory and Eſculent Plants, may be admitted into a
Garden of Pleaſure.

Chap. XX. Of Sallets.

Chap. XXI. Of a Vineyard, and Directions concerning the
making of Wine and other Vinous Liquors, and of Teas.

Chap. XXII. Of Watering, Pruning, Plaſhing, Palliſading,
Nailing, Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleanſing, &c.

Chap. XXIII. Of the Enemies and Infirmities to which
Gardens are obnoxious, together with Remedies.

Chap. XXIV. Of the Gardiner’s Almanack or Kalendarium
Hortenſe, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what Fruits
and Flowers are in prime.

BOOK III.

Chap. I. Of Conſerving, Properating, Retarding,
Multiplying, Tranſmuting, and Altering the [pg]
Species, Forms, and (reputed) Subſtantial Qualities of
Plants, Fruits and Flowers.

Chap. II. Of the Hortulan Elaboratory; and of diſtilling
and extracting of Waters, Spirits, Eſſences, Salts,
Colours, Reſuſcitation of Plants, with other rare
Experiments, and an Account of their Virtues.

Chap. III. Of Compoſing the Hortus Hyemalis, and making
Books, of Natural, Arid Plants and Flowers, with ſeveral
Ways of Preſerving them in their Beauty.

Chap. IV. Of Painting of Flowers, Flowers enamell’d,
Silk, Callico’s, Paper, Wax, Guns, Paſts, Horns, Glaſs, Shells,
Feathers, Moſs, Pietra Comeſſa, Inlayings, Embroyderies,
Carvings, and other Artificial Repreſentations of them.

Chap. V. Of Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Feſtoons, Encarpa,
Flower-Pots, Noſegays, Poeſes, Deckings, and other Flowery
Pomps.

Chap. VI. Of Hortulan Laws and Privileges.

Chap. VII. Of the Hortulan Study, and of a Library,
Authors and Books aſſiſtant to it.

Chap. VIII. Of Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral,
and Political; with divers Hiſtorical Paſſages,
and Solemnities, to [pg] ſhew the Riches,
Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight, and Univerſal Uſe of
Gardens.

Chap. IX. Of Garden Burial.

Chap. X. Of Paradiſe, and of the moſt Famous
Gardens in the World, Ancient and Modern.

Chap. XI. The Deſcription of a Villa.

Chap. XII. The Corollary and Concluſion.

[1]

ACETARIA:
A Diſcourse of Sallets

S allets in
general conſiſt of certain Eſculent Plants and
Herbs, improv’d by Culture, Induſtry, and Art of the Gard’ner:
Or, as others ſay, they are a Compoſition of Edule Plants
and Roots of ſeveral kinds, to be eaten Raw or Green,
Blanch’d or Candied: ſimple–and per ſe, or
intermingl’d with others according to the Seaſon. The Boil’d, Bak’d,
Pickl’d, or otherwiſe diſguis’d, variouſly accommodated by
the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat, or
Herbs rather for the Pot, &c. challenge not the name of Sallet
ſo properly here, tho’ ſometimes mention’d; And therefore,

Thoſe who Criticize not ſo nicely upon the Word, ſeem
to diſtinguiſh the ⁴Olera (which were
never eaten Raw) from Acetaria, which [2] were never Boil’d; and
ſo they derive the Etymology of Olus, from Olla, the Pot.
But others deduce it from Όλος,
comprehending the Univerſal Genus of the Vegetable Kingdom; as
from Παν
Panis; eſteeming that he who had ⁵Bread
and Herbs, was ſufficiently bleſs’d with all a frugal Man
cou’d need or deſire: Others again will have it, ab Olendo,
i.e. Creſcendo, from its continual growth and ſpringing
up: So the younger Scaliger on Varro: But his Father Julius
extends it not ſo generally to all Plants, as to all the Eſculents,
according to the Text: We call thoſe Olera (ſays ⁶Theophraſtus)
which are commonly eaten, in which ſenſe it may be taken, to
include both Boil’d and Raw: Laſt of all, ab Alendo,
as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the ⁷Creation.

A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick’d up from the Cumini
Sectores, and impertinently Curious; whilſt as it concerns [3] the buſineſs
in hand, we are by Sallet to underſtand a particular Compoſition
of certain Crude and freſh Herbs, such as uſually are, or
may ſafely be eaten with ſome Acetous Juice, Oyl, Salt,
&c. to give them a grateful Guſt and Vehicle; excluſive
of the ⁸
ψυχραι
τραπεζαι,
eaten without their due Correctives,
which the Learned ⁹Salmaſius, and, indeed
generally, the ¹⁰old Phyſicians affirm (and
that truly) all Crude and raw λαχανα
require to render them wholſome; ſo
as probably they were from hence, as ¹¹Pliny thinks,
call’d Acetaria: and not (as Hermolaus and ſome others)
Acceptaria ab Accipiendo; nor from Accedere, though ſo ¹²ready
at hand, and eaſily dreſs’d; requiring neither Fire, Coſt,
or Attendance, to boil, roaſt, and prepare them as did Fleſh,
and other Proviſions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were
always in uſe, &c. And hence indeed the more frugal Italians
and French, to this Day, gather Ogni Verdura, any thing almoſt
that’s Green and Tender, to the very Tops of Nettles; ſo
as every Hedge affords [4]
a Sallet (not unagreeable) ſeaſon’d with its proper Oxybaphon
of Vinegar, Salt, Oyl, &c. which doubtleſs gives it both
the Reliſh and Name of Salad, Emſalada ¹³, as
with us of Sallet; from the Sapidity, which renders not Plants
and Herbs alone, but Men themſelves, and their Converſations,
pleaſant and agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps too much; leaſt
whilſt I write of Salt and Sallet, I appear my ſelf
Inſipid: I paſs therefore to the Ingredients, which we
will call

Furniture and Materials

T he Materials
of Sallets, which together with the groſſer Olera,
conſiſt of Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c.
Fruits (belonging to another Claſs) would require a much
ampler Volume, than would ſuit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends
to be an Appendix only) ſhould we extend the following Catalogue
further than to a brief enumeration only of ſuch Herbaceous
Plants, Oluſcula and smaller Eſculents, as are
chiefly us’d in Cold Sallets, of whose Culture we have treated
there; and as [5]
we gather them from the Mother and Genial Bed, with a touch
only of their Qualities, for Reasons hereafter given.

1. Alexanders, Hippoſelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare (much of the
nature of Perſly) is moderately hot, and of a cleanſing
Faculty, Deobſtructing, nouriſhing, and comforting the Stomach.
The gentle freſh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be choſen, and
the Stalks eaten in the Spring; and when Blanch’d, in Winter likewiſe,
with Oyl, Pepper, Salt, &c. by themſelves, or in Compoſition:
They make alſo an excellent Vernal Pottage.

2. Artichaux, Cinara, (Carduus Sativus) hot and dry. The
Heads being ſlit in quarters firſt eaten raw, with Oyl, a
little Vinegar, Salt, and Pepper, gratefully recommend a Glaſs
of Wine; Dr. Muffet ſays, at the end of Meals.

They are likewiſe, whilſt tender and ſmall, fried in freſh
Butter criſp with Perſley. But then become a moſt
delicate and excellent Reſtorative, when full grown, they are boil’d
the common way. The Bottoms are alſo bak’d in Pies,
with Marrow, Dates, and other rich Ingredients: In Italy
they ſometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baſte
them with freſh and ſweet Oyl; but with Care
extraordinary, [6]
for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr’d; that hazard eſcap’d,
they eat them with the Juice of Orange and Sugar.

The Stalk is Blanch’d in Autumn, and the Pith eaten raw or
boil’d. The way of preſerving them freſh all Winter, is by
ſeparating the Bottoms from the Leaves, and after
Parboiling, allowing to every Bottom, a ſmall earthen glaz’d
Pot; burying it all over in freſh melted Butter, as they do
Wild-Fowl, &c. Or if more than one, in a larger Pot, in the
ſame Bed and Covering, Layer upon Layer.

They are alſo preſerv’d by ſtringing them on Pack-thread, a
clean Paper being put between every Bottom, to hinder them from
touching one another, and ſo hung up in a dry place. They are likewiſe
Pickl’d.

‘Tis not very long ſince this noble Thiſtle came firſt
into Italy, Improv’d to this Magnitude by Culture; and ſo rare
in England, that they were commonly ſold for Crowns a
piece: But what Carthage yearly ſpent in them (as Pliny
computes the Sum) amounted to Seſtertia Sena Millia, 30000 l.
Sterling.

Note, That the Spaniſh Cardon, a wild and ſmaller
Artichoak, with ſharp pointed Leaves, and leſſer
Head; the Stalks being Blanch’d and [7] tender, are ſerv’d-up a la
Poiverade (that is with Oyl, Pepper, &c.) as the French
term is.

3. Baſil, Ocimum (as Baulm) imparts a grateful Flavour,
if not too ſtrong, ſomewhat offenſive to the Eyes; and
therefore the tender Tops to be very ſparingly us’d in our Sallet.

4. Baulm, Meliſſa, Baum, hot and dry, Cordial and
exhilarating, ſovereign for the Brain, ſtrengthning the Memory,
and powerfully chaſing away Melancholy. The tender Leaves are
us’d in Compoſition with other Herbs; and the Sprigs freſh
gather’d, put into Wine or other Drinks, during the heat of Summer,
give it a marvellous quickneſs: This noble Plant yields an
incomparable Wine, made as is that of Cowſlip-Flowers.

5. Beet, Beta; of which there is both Red, Black, and White:
The Coſta, or Rib of the White Beet (by the French
call’d the Chard) being boil’d, melts, and eats like Marrow. And
the Roots (eſpecially of the Red) cut into thin ſlices,
boil’d, when cold, is of it ſelf a grateful winter Sallet; or
being mingl’d with other Oluſcula, Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.
‘Tis of quality Cold and Moiſt, and naturally ſomewhat Laxative:
[8] But
however by the Epigrammatiſt ſtil’d Fooliſh
and Inſipid, as Innocentior quam Olus (for ſo the Learned
¹⁴Harduin
reads the place) ’tis by Diphilus of old, and others ſince,
preferr’d before Cabbage as of better Nouriſhment: Martial
(not unlearn’d in the Art of Sallet) commends it with Wine
and Pepper: He names it indeed—Fabrorum prandia, for
its being ſo vulgar. But eaten with Oyl and Vinegar, as
uſually, it is no deſpicable Sallet. There is a Beet
growing near the Sea, which is the moſt delicate of all. The Roots of
the Red Beet, pared into thin Slices and Circles, are by the French
and Italians contriv’d into curious Figures to adorn their Sallets.

6. Blite, Blitum; Engliſh Mercury, or (as our
Country Houſe wives call it) All-good, the gentle Turiones,
and Tops may be eaten as Sparagus, or ſodden in Pottage: There
is both a white and red, much us’d in Spain and Italy; but
beſides its humidity and deterſive Nature, ’tis Inſipid
enough.

7. Borrage, Borrago (Gaudia semper ago) hot and kindly moiſt,
purifying the Blood, is an [9]
exhilarating Cordial, of a pleaſant Flavour: The tender Leaves, and
Flowers eſpecially, may be eaten in Compoſition; but above all,
the Sprigs in Wine, like thoſe of Baum, are of known
Vertue to revive the Hypochondriac, and chear the hard Student. See
Bugloſs.

8. Brooklime, Anagallis aquatica; moderately hot and moiſt,
prevalent in the Scorbute, and Stone.

9. Bugloſs, Bugloſſum; in mature much like Borrage,
yet ſomething more aſtringent. The Flowers of both, with the
intire Plant, greatly reſtorative, being Conſerv’d: And for the
reſt, ſo much commended by Averroes; that for its
effects, cheriſhing the Spirits, juſtly call’d Euphroſynum;
Nay, ſome will have it the Nepenthes of Homer: But
indeed, what we now call Bugloſs, was not that of the
Ancients, but rather Borrage, for the like Virtue named Corrago.

Burnet, See Pimpinella.

10. Buds, Gemmæ, Turiones; the firſt Rudiments and Tops
of moſt Sallet-Plants, preferrable to all other leſs
tender Parts; ſuch as Aſhen-Keys, Broom-buds, hot and
dry, retaining [10]
the vertue of Capers, eſteem’d to be very opening, and
prevalent againſt the Spleen and Scurvy; and being Pickl’d,
are ſprinkl’d among the Sallets, or eaten by themſelves.

11. Cabbage, Braſſica (and its ſeveral kinds) Pompey’s
beloved Diſh, ſo highly celebrated by old ¹⁵Cato,
Pythagoras, and Chryſippus the Phyſician (as the
only Panacea) is not ſo generally magnify’d by the reſt
of Doctors, as affording but a craſs and melancholy Juice; yet Looſening
if but moderately boil’d, if over-much, Aſtringent, according
to C. Celſus; and therefore ſeldom eaten raw, excepting
by the Dutch. The Cymæ, or Sprouts rather of the Cole
are very delicate, ſo boil’d as to retain their Verdure and green
Colour. In raiſing this Plant great care is to be had of the
Seed. The beſt comes from Denmark and Ruſſia,
eſpecially the Cauly-flower, (anciently unknown) or from Aleppo.
Of the French, the Pancaliere a la large Costé, the
white, large and ponderous are to be choſen; and ſo the Cauly-flower:
After boiling ſome ſteep them in Milk, and ſeethe them
again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little Nitre. The Broccoli
from Naples, perhaps the [11] Halmyridia of Pliny (or Athenæus
rather) Capiata marina & florida, our Sea-keele
(the ancient Crambe) and growing on our Coaſt, are very
delicate, as are the Savoys, commended for being not ſo rank,
but agreeable to moſt Palates, and of better Nouriſhment:
In general, Cabbages are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent
Intoxication: But ſome will have them noxious to the Sight; others
impute it to the Cauly-flower rather: But whilſt the Learned
are not agreed about it, Theophraſtus affirms the contrary,
and Pliny commends the Juice raw, with a little Honey, for
the moiſt and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, Cabbage
(’tis confeſs’d) is greatly accus’d for lying undigeſted in the
Stomach, and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the
Veneration we read the Ancients had for them, calling them Divine,
and Swearing, per Braſſicam. ‘Tis ſcarce an hundred
Years ſince we firſt had Cabbages out of Holland.
Sir Anth. Aſhley of Wiburg St. Giles in Dorſetſhire,
being (as I am told) the firſt who planted them in England.

12. Cardon, See Artichaux.

13. Carrots, Dauci, or Paſtinaca Sativa; temperately
warm and dry, Spicy; the beſt are [12] yellow, very nouriſhing; let them be
rais’d in Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.

14. Chervile, Chærophyllum, Myrrhis; The ſweet aromatick
Spaniſh Chervile, moderately hot and dry: The tender Cimæ,
and Tops, with other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our Sallets,
(as long as they may be had) being exceedingly wholſome and chearing
the Spirits: The Roots are alſo boil’d and eaten Cold; much
commended for Aged Perſons: This (as likewiſe Spinach) is
us’d in Tarts, and ſerves alone for divers Sauces.

Cibbols.		Vide Onions, Schœnopræſſon.
Cives.

15. Clary, Horminum, when tender not to be rejected, and in Omlets,
made up with Cream, fried in ſweet Butter, are eaten
with Sugar, Juice of Orange, or Limon.

16. Clavers, Aparine; the tender Winders, with young Nettle-Tops,
are us’d in Lenten Pottages.

17. Corn-ſallet, Valerianella; loos’ning and refreſhing:
The Tops and Leaves are a Sallet [13] of themſelves, ſeaſonably
eaten with other Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The
French call them Salad de Preter, for their being generally
eaten in Lent.

18. Cowſlips, Paralyſis: See Flowers.

19. Creſſes, Naſturtium, Garden Creſſes;
to be monthly ſown: But above all the Indian, moderately hot,
and aromatick, quicken the torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are
of ſingular effect againſt the Scorbute. Both the tender
Leaves, Calices, Cappuchin Capers, and Flowers, are laudably
mixed with the colder Plants. The Buds being Candy’d, are likewiſe
us’d in Strewings all Winter. There is the Naſtur. Hybernicum
commended alſo, and the vulgar Water-Creſs, proper in the
Spring, all of the ſame Nature, tho’ of different Degrees, and best
for raw and cold Stomachs, but nouriſh little.

20. Cucumber, Cucumis; tho’ very cold and moiſt, the moſt
approved Sallet alone, or in Compoſition, of all the Vinaigrets,
to ſharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, ¹⁶&c.
if rightly [14]
prepar’d; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Miſtake of altogether
extracting the Juice, in which it ſhould rather be ſoak’d: Nor
ought it to be over Oyl’d, too much abating of its grateful Acidity,
and palling the Taſte from a contrariety of Particles: Let
them therefore be pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a Clove or
two of Onion to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often
turn’d and moderately drain’d. Others prepare them, by ſhaking the
Slices between two Diſhes, and dreſs them with very little Oyl,
well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of Limon, Orange, or Vinegar,
Salt and Pepper. Some again, (and indeed the moſt
approv’d) eat them as ſoon as they are cut, retaining their Liquor,
which being exhauſted (by the former Method) have nothing remaining
in them to help the Concoction. Of old they ¹⁷boil’d
the Cucumber, and paring off the Rind, eat them with Oyl,
Vinegar, and Honey; Sugar not being ſo well known.
Laſtly, the Pulp in Broth is greatly refreſhing, and may
be mingl’d in moſt Sallets, without the leaſt damage,
contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, ſince Cucumber,
however dreſs’d, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted
[15] little
better than Poyſon. Tavernier tells us, that in the Levant,
if a Child cry for ſomething to Eat, they give it a raw Cucumber
inſtead of Bread. The young ones may be boil’d in White-Wine.
The ſmaller sort (known by the name of Gerckems) muriated with
the Seeds of Dill, and the Mango Pickle are for the Winter.

21. Daiſy, Buphthalmum, Ox-Eye, or Bellis-major: The
young Roots are frequently eaten by the Spaniards and Italians
all the Spring till June.

22. Dandelion, Dens Leonis, Condrilla: Macerated in ſeveral
Waters, to extract the bitterneſs; tho’ ſomewhat opening, is
very wholſome, and little inferior to Succory, Endive, &c.
The French Country-People eat the Roots; and ’twas with this homely
Sallet, the Good-Wife Hecate entertain’d Theſeus.
See Sowthiſtle.

23. Dock, Oxylapathum, or ſharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and
tho’ otherwiſe not for our Sallet, the Roots brewed in
Ale or Beer, are excellent for the Scorbute.

Earth-Nuts, Bulbo-Caſtanum; (found in divers places of Surry,
near Kingſton, and other [16] parts) the Rind par’d off, are eaten crude
by Rustics, with a little Pepper; but are beſt boil’d like
other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are ſweet and nouriſhing.

24. Elder, Sambucus; The Flowers infus’d in Vinegar,
grateful both to the Stomach and Taſte; attenuate thick and viſcid
Humours; and tho’ the Leaves are ſomewhat rank of Smell, and ſo
not commendable in Sallet; they are otherwiſe (as indeed is
the intire Shrub) of the most ſovereign Vertue; and the ſpring
Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholſome in Pottage at that Seaſon
of the Year. See Flowers.

25. Endive, Endivium, Intubum Sativum; the largeſt, whiteſt,
and tendereſt Leaves beſt boil’d, and leſs crude. It is
naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; Inciſive and
opening Obſtructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being
eaten alone, or in Compoſition, with the uſual Intinctus:
It is alſo excellent being boil’d; the middle part of the
Blanch’d-Stalk ſeparated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many
perferr’d before Lettuce. See Succory.

Eſchalot. See Onions.

[17] 26.
Fennel, Fœniculum: The ſweeteſt of Bolognia:
Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, ſharpens the Sight, and
recreates the Brain; eſpecially the tender Umbella and
Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel’d when young, and then dreſs’d
like Sellery. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc’d,
are eaten alone with Vinegar, or Oyl, and Pepper, and
to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Compoſition. The
Italians eat the blanch’d Stalk (which they call Cartucci)
all Winter long. There is a very ſmall Green-Worm, which
ſometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken
out, as the Red one in that of Sellery.

27. Flowers, Flores; chiefly of the Aromatick Eſculents
and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow’d with the Vertues of their
Simples, in a more intenſe degree; and may therefore be eaten
alone in their proper Vehicles, or Compoſition with other Salleting,
ſprinkl’d among them; But give a more palatable Reliſh, being
Infus’d in Vinegar; Eſpecially thoſe of the Clove-Gillyflower,
Elder, Orange, Cowſlip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Naſturtium
Indicum, &c. Some of them are Pickl’d, and divers of them make alſo
very pleasant and wholſome Theas, as do likewiſe the Wild
Time, Bugloſſ, Mint, &c.

[18] 28.
Garlick, Allium; dry towards Exceſs; and tho’ both by Spaniards
and Italians, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with
almoſt every thing, and eſteem’d of such ſigular Vertue to
help Conception, and thought a Charm againſt all Infection and Poyſon
(by which it has obtain’d the Name of the Country-man’s Theriacle)
we yet think it more proper for our Northern Ruſtics, especially
living in Uliginous and moiſt places, or ſuch as uſe
the Sea: Whilſt we abſolutely forbid it entrance into our
Salleting, by reaſon of its intolerable Rankneſs, and
which made it ſo deteſted of old; that the eating of it was (as
we read) part of the Puniſhment for ſuch as had committed the
horrid’ſt Crimes. To be ſure, ’tis not for Ladies Palats, nor
thoſe who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Diſh,
with a Clove thereof, much better ſupply’d by the gentler Roccombo.

Note, That in Spain they ſometimes eat it boil’d, which
taming its fierceneſs, turns it into Nouriſhment, or rather Medicine.

Ginny-Pepper, Capſicum. See Pepper.

29. Goats-beard, Trago-pogon: The Root is excellent even in
Sallet, and very Nutritive, [19] exceeding profitable for the Breaſt,
and may be ſtew’d and dreſs’d as Scorzonera.

30. Hops, Lupulus: Hot and moiſt, rather Medicinal,
than fit for Sallet; the Buds and young Tendrels
excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil’d, and
cold like Aſparagus: They are Diuretic; depurate the
Blood, and open Obſtructions.

31. Hyſſop, Hyſſopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus;
Majoran, Mary-gold, &c. as all hot, ſpicy Aromatics,
(commonly growing in Kitchin-Gardens) are of Faculty to Comfort,
and ſtrengthen; prevalent againſt Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants,
like theſe, going under the Names of Pot Herbs, are much more
proper for Broths and Decoctions, than the tender Sallet:
Yet the Tops and Flowers reduc’d to Powder, are by ſome
reſerv’d for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no
ungrateful Fragrancy.

32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, Alliaria, or Sauce-alone; has many
Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other Sallets, eſpecially
by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.

[20]

33. Leeks, and Cibbols, Porrum; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick,
ſince Latona, the Mother of Appolo long’d after them:
The Welch, who eat them much, are obſerv’d to be very
fruitful: They are alſo friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being
ſod in Milk; a few therefore of the ſlender and green Summities,
a little ſhred, do not amiſs in Compoſition. See Onion.

34. Lettuce, Lactuca: Tho’ by Metaphor call’d ¹⁸Mortuorum
Cibi, (to ſay nothing of ¹⁹Adonis and his
ſad Miſtriſs) by reason of its Soporiferous
quality, ever was, and ſtill continues the principal Foundation of
the univerſal Tribe of Sallets; which is to Cool and
Refreſh, beſides its other Properties: And therefore in ſuch
high eſteem with the Ancients; that divers of the Valerian
Family, dignify’d and enobled their Name with that of Lactucinii.

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moiſt than any of the reſt;
yet leſs aſtringent, and ſo harmleſs that it may
ſafely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler,
[21]
extinguiſhes Thirſt, excites Appetite, kindly Nouriſhes,
and above all repreſſes Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates
Pain; beſides the effect it has upon the Morals, Temperance
and Chaſtity. Galen (whoſe beloved Sallet it was)
from its pinguid, ſubdulcid and agreeable Nature, ſays it
breeds the moſt laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the
Ancients called Sana, by way of eminency, and ſo highly valu’d
by the great ²⁰Auguſtus, that attributing
his Recovery of a dangerous Sickneſs to them, ’tis reported, he
erected a Statue, and built an Altar to this noble Plant.
And that the moſt abſtemious and excellent Emperor ²¹Tacitus
(ſpending almoſt nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties)
was yet ſo great a Friend to Lettuce, that he was us’d to
ſay of his Prodigality, Somnum ſe mercari illa ſumptus
effuſione. How it was celebrated by Galen we have heard;
how he us’d it he tells himſelf; namely, beginning with Lettuce
in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to
his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude
Materials [22]
and Sallet ſtore, ſo proper to mingle with any of the reſt,
nor ſo wholſome to be eaten alone, or in Compoſition,
moderately, and with the uſual Oxelœum of Vinegar,
Pepper, and Oyl, &c. which laſt does not ſo
perfectly agree with the Alphange, to which the Juice of Orange,
or Limon and Sugar is more deſirable: Ariſtoxenus
is reported to have irrigated his Lettuce-Beds with an Oinomelite,
or mixture of Wine and Honey: And certainly ’tis not for
nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and Brothers of the Sallet, have
been ſo exceedingly Induſtrious to cultivate this Noble Plant,
and multiply its Species; for to name a few in preſent uſe:
We have the Alphange of Montpelier, criſp and delicate;
the Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coſs-Lettuce,
Curl’d; the Genoa (laſting all the Winter) the Imperial,
Lambs, or Agnine, and Lobbs or Lop-Lettuces. The
French Minion a dwarf kind: The Oak-Leaf, Paſſion,
Roman, Shell, and Sileſian, hard and crimp (eſteemed
of the beſt and rareſt) with divers more: And here let it be
noted, that beſides three or four ſorts of this Plant, and
ſome few of the reſt, there was within our remembrance, rarely
any other Salleting ſerv’d up to the beſt Tables; with
unblanch’d Endive, Succory, Purſelan, (and indeed little other
[23]
variety) Sugar and Vinegar being the conſtant Vehicles
(without Oyl) but now Sugar is almoſt wholly baniſh’d
from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and
taking from the grateful Acid now in uſe, tho’ otherwiſe
not totally to be reproved: Lettuce boil’d and Condited is
ſometimes ſpoken of.

35. Limon, Limonia, citrea mala; exceedingly refreſhing, Cordial,
&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, ſecluding the over-ſweet
or bitter. See Orange.

36. Mallow, Malva; the curl’d, emollient, and friendly to the Ventricle,
and ſo rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil’d, be admitted,
and the reſt (tho’ out of uſe at preſent) was taken by the
Poets for all Sallets in general. Pythagoras held Malvæ
folium Sanctiſimum; and we find Epimenides in ²²Plato
at his Mallows and Aſphodel; and indeed it was of old
the firſt Diſh at Table: The Romans had it alſo in
deliciis, ²³Malvæ ſalubres corpori,
approved by ²⁴Galen and ²⁵Dioſcorides;
namely the Garden-Mallow, by others the Wild; but I [24] think both
proper rather for the Pot, than Sallet. Nonius ſuppoſes
the tall Roſea, Arboreſcent Holi-hocks, that bears the
broad Flower, for the beſt, and very ²⁶Laxative;
but by reaſon of their clammineſs and Lentor, baniſhed
from our Sallet, tho’ by ſome commended and eaten with Oyl
and Vinegar, and ſome with Butter.

Mercury, Bonus Henricus, Engliſh Mercury, or Lapathum
Unctuoſum. See Blitum.

37. Melon, Melo; to have been reckon’d rather among Fruits;
and tho’ an uſual Ingredient in our Sallet; yet for its tranſcendent
delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if ſweet, dry,
weighty, and well-fed) not only ſuperior all the Gourd-kind,
but Paragon with the nobleſt Productions of the Garden. Joſ.
Scaliger and Caſaubon, think our Melon unknown to
the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of Cucumers:
[25] But he
who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais’d under Glaſſes,
and expos’d to the hot Sun, (for Tiberius) cannot well doubt of
their being the ſame with ours.

There is alſo a Winter-Melon, large and with black Seeds,
exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates,
where they drink Water after eating Melons; but in the
colder (after all diſpute) Wine is judg’d the better: That it
has indeed by ſome been accus’d as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as
do all things elſe eaten in exceſs) is not deny’d: But a perfect
good Melon is certainly as harmleſs a Fruit as any whatſoever;
and may ſafely be mingl’d with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, or
more properly eaten by it ſelf, with a little Salt and Pepper;
for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it, wants of
Perfection. Note, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England,
ſo as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir Geo. Gardner came out
of Spain. I my ſelf remembring, when an ordinary Melon
would have been ſold for five or ſix Shillings. The ſmall
unripe Fruit, when the others are paſt, may be Pickl’d with Mango,
and are very delicate.

38. Mint, Mentha; the Anguſtifolia Spicata, Spear-Mint;
dry and warm, very fragrant, a [26] little preſs’d, is friendly to the weak
Stomach, and powerful againſt all Nervous Crudities: The
gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint, enter well into our Compoſition,
or are grateful alone (as are alſo the other ſorts) with the
Juice of Orange, and a little Sugar.

39. Muſhroms, Fungi; By the ²⁷Orator
call’d Terræ, by Porphyry Deorum filii, without Seed
(as produc’d by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms, portending
the Miſchief they cauſe) by the French, Champignons, with
all the Species of the Boletus, &c. for being, as ſome
hold, neither Root, Herb, Flower, nor Fruit, nor to be eaten
crude; ſhould be therefore baniſh’d entry into our Sallet,
were I to order the Compoſition; however ſo highly contended for
by many, as the very principal and top of all the reſt; whilſt I
think them tolerable only (at leaſt in this Climate) if being
freſh and skilfully choſen, they are accommodated with the niceſt
Care and Circumſpection; generally reported to have ſomething
malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cauſe; from the many
ſad Examples, frequent Miſchiefs, and funeſt Accidents they
have produc’d, not only [27]
to particular Perſons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were
to the ſecond Courſe of the Cæsarian Tables, with
the noble Title
Βρωμα θεων,
a Dainty fit for the Gods
alone; to whom they ſent the Emperor ²⁸Claudius,
as they have many ſince, to the other World. But he that reads how ²⁹Seneca
deplores his loſt Friend, that brave Commander Annæus
Serenus, and ſeveral other gallant Perſons with him, who all
of them periſh’d at the same Repaſt; would be apt to ask with
the ³⁰Naturaliſt
(ſpeaking of this ſuſpicious Dainty) Quæ voluptas
tanta ancipitis cibi? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that
of the Poet; He that eats Muſhroms, many time Nil amplius
edit, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring Epithets
are given for our Caution, Βαρη
πνιγοεντα μυκητων,
heavy
and choaking. (Athenæus reporting of the Poet Euripides’s,
finding a Woman and her three Children ſtrangl’d by eating of them)
one would think ſufficient warning.

Among theſe comes in the Fungus Reticularis, to be found about
London, as at Fulham and other places; whilſt at no
ſmall charge we [28]
ſend for them into France; as we alſo do for Trufles,
Pig-nuts, and other ſubterraneous Tubera, which in Italy
they fry in Oyl, and eat with Pepper: They are commonly diſcovered
by a Naſute Swine purpoſely brought up; being of a Cheſsnut
Colour, and heady Smell, and not ſeldom found in England,
particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton’s at Ruſhton
or Rusbery in Northampton-ſhire, and doubtleſs in
other ³¹places
too were they ſought after. How these rank and provocative Excreſcences
are to be ³²treated (of themſelves inſipid
enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure)
that they may do the leſs Miſchief we might here ſet down.
But ſince there be ſo many ways of Dreſſing them, that
I can incourage none to uſe them, for Reaſons given (beſides
that they do not at all concern our ſafer and innocent Sallet
Furniture) I forbear it; and referr thoſe who long after this beloved
Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena (as Seneca calls
them) to what our Learned Dr. Lyſter ³³ ſays
of the many Venomous Inſects harbouring and corrupting in a
new found-out Species of Muſhroms had lately in deliciis.
[29] Thoſe,
in the mean time, which are eſteemed beſt, and leſs
pernicious, (of which ſee the Appendix) are ſuch as riſe
in rich, airy, and dry ³⁴Paſture-Grounds; growing on the
Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high; moderately
Swelling (Target-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale
ſaffronish hue, curiouſly radiated in parallel Lines and Edges,
which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But beſides
what the Harveſt-Months produce, they are likewiſe rais’d ³⁵Artificially;
as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth,
heaped upon a certain ſuppoſed Stone, but in truth, (as
the curious and noble ³⁶Peireſky tells us, he found
to be) nothing but an heap of old Fungus‘s, reduc’d and compacted
to a ſtony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and ſprinkle it
with warm Water, in which Muſhroms have been ſteeped. And
in France, by making an hot Bed of Aſſes-Dung, and
when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with
the Parings and Offals of refuſe [30] Fungus‘s; and ſuch a Bed will laſt
two or three Years, and ſometimes our common Melon-Beds afford
them, beſides other Experiments.

40. Muſtard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicant, not
only in the Seed but Leaf alſo; eſpecially in Seedling
young Plants, like thoſe of Radiſhes (newly peeping out
of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits;
ſtrengthening the Memory, expelling heavineſs, preventing the
Vertiginous Palſie, and is a laudable Cephalick. Beſides
it is an approv’d Antiſcorbutick; aids Concoction, cuts and diſſipates
Phlegmatick Humours. In ſhort, ’tis the moſt noble Embamma,
and ſo neceſſary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting,
that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In Italy in
making Muſtard, they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel,
with the Seeds. How the beſt is made, ſee hereafter.

Naſturtium Indicum. See Creſſes.

41. Nettles, Urtica; Hot, dry, Diuretic, Solvent; purifies
the Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cimae, a little bruiſed,
are by ſome eaten raw, by others boil’d, eſpecially in Spring-Pottage,
with other Herbs.

[31]

42. Onion, Cepa, Porrum; the beſt are ſuch as are
brought us out of Spain, whence they of St. Omers had them,
and ſome that have weigh’d eight Pounds. Chooſe therefore the
large, round, white, and thin Skin’d. Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl,
Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not
ſo hot as Garlick, nor at all ſo rank: Boil’d, they give
a kindly reliſh; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm,
and profit the Aſthmatical: But eaten in exceſs, are
ſaid to offend the Head and Eyes, unleſs Edulcorated with
a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the
Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour riſing from the raw Onion,
when peeled, which ſome commend for its purging and quickning that
Senſe. How they are us’d in Pottage, boil’d in Milk, stew’d, &c.
concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sallet we ſupply them with
the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eſchalots
(Aſcalonia) of guſt more exalted, yet not to the degree
of Garlick. Or (by what of later uſe is much preferr’d) with a
Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate
nature, which by rubbing the Diſh only, imparts its Vertue agreeably
enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions,
Cives, and Chibbols only ſeaſon’d with Oyl
and Pepper; [32]
and an honeſt laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt,
and a little Parſley, will make a contented Meal with a roaſted
Onion. How this noble Bulb was deified in ³⁷Egypt
we are told, and that whilſt they were building the Pyramids,
there was ſpent in this Root ³⁸Ninety Tun of Gold
among the Workmen. So luſhious and tempting it ſeems they were,
that as whole Nations have ſubſiſted on them alone; ſo
the Iſraelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making
for the love of them. Indeed Hecamedes we find preſents them
to Patroclus, in Homer, as a Regalo; But certainly we
are either miſtaken in the Species (which ſome will have
to be Melons) or uſe Poetick Licence, when we ſo
highly magnify them.

43. Orach, Atriplex: Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humor:
Being ſet over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce,
needs any other Water than their own moiſture to boil them in,
without Expreſſion: The tender Leaves are mingl’d with other
cold Salleting; but ’tis better in Pottage. See Blitum.

[33]

44. Orange, Arantiæ (Malum aureum) Moderately dry,
cooling, and inciſive; ſharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreſhes
and reſists Putrefaction: We ſpeak of the Sub acid; the
ſweet and bitter Orange being of no uſe in our Sallet.
The Limon is ſomewhat more acute, cooling and extinguiſhing
Thirſt; of all the Οξυβαφα
the best ſuccedaneum to Vinegar.
The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being ſhred
and ſprinkl’d among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they
are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an
Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon.

45. Parſnep, Paſtinaca, Carrot: firſt boil’d, being
cold, is of it ſelf a Winter-Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Vinegar,
&c. and having ſomething of Spicy, is by ſome, thought more
nouriſhing than the Turnep.

46. Peaſe, Piſum: the Pod of the Sugar-Peaſe,
when firſt beginning to appear, with the Husk and Tendrels,
affording a pretty Acid, enter into the Compoſition, as do thoſe
of Hops and the Vine.

47. Peper, Piper, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv’d Vertue
against all flatulency [34]
proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Conſtitutions, and generally all
Crudities whatſoever; and therefore for being of univerſal uſe
to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and ſuch as abound in moiſture;
It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our Sallets; provided it
be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almoſt
impalpable Duſt, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and
ſticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, inſtead of promoting
Concoction, it often cauſes a Cardialgium, and fires the
Blood: It ſhould therefore be groſly contus’d only.

Indian Capſicum, ſuperlatively hot and burning, is yet by
the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it ſelf,
as an uſual Condiment; but wou’d be of dangerous conſequence
with us; being ſo much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting
quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithſtanding render’d not
only ſafe, but very agreeable in our Sallet.

Take the Pods, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become
ſufficiently hard, cut them into ſmall pieces, and ſtamp
’em in a Mortar to duſt: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of Wheat-flour,
fermented with a little Levain: Kneed and make them into Cakes or
Loaves cut long-wiſe, in ſhape of Naples-Biſcuit.
[35] Theſe
Re-bake a ſecond time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as
before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seaſoning,
inſtead of vulgar Peper. The Mordicancy thus allay’d, be
ſure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten Indian Capſicum,
before you ſtamp any thing in it elſe. The green Husks, or firſt
peeping Buds of the Walnut-Tree, dry’d to Powder, ſerve for Peper
in ſome places, and ſo do Myrtle-berries.

48. Perſley, Petroſelinum, or Apium hortenſe;
being hot and dry, opens Obſtructions, is very Diuretic, yet
nouriſhing, edulcorated in ſhifted warm Water (the Roots
eſpecially) but of leſs Vertue than Alexanders; nor
ſo convenient in our crude Sallet, as when decocted on a
Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted;
tho’ it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as ſacred
to Oblivium and the Defunct. In the mean time, there being
nothing more proper for Stuffing, (Farces) and other Sauces,
we conſign it to the Olitories. Note, that Perſley
is not ſo hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See Sellery.

49. Pimpernel, Pimpinella; eaten by the French and Italians,
is our common Burnet; of [36] ſo chearing and exhilarating a quality,
and ſo generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all Sallets)
’tis paſs’d into a Proverb:

But a freſh ſprig in Wine, recommends it to us as its moſt
genuine Element.

50. Purslain, Portulaca; eſpecially the Golden whilſt
tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moiſt
and cooling, quickens Appetite, aſſwages Thirſt, and is
very profitable for hot and Bilious Tempers, as well as Sanguine,
and generally entertain’d in all our Sallets, mingled with the
hotter Herbs: Tis likewiſe familiarly eaten alone with Oyl and
Vinegar; but with moderation, as having been ſometimes found
to corrupt in the Stomach, which being Pickl’d ’tis not ſo apt
to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil’d, which Dr. Muffet
would have in Wine, for Nouriſhment.

The Shrub Halimus, is a ſort of Sea-Purſlain: The
newly peeping Leaves (tho’ rarely us’d) afford a no unpleaſant Acidule,
even during winter, if it prove not too ſevere.

[37] Purſlain
is accus’d for being hurtful to the Teeth, if too much eaten.

51. Radiſh, Raphanus. Albeit rather Medicinal, than ſo
commendably accompanying our Sallets (wherein they often ſlice
the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and
Roots; raiſed on the ³⁹Monthly Hot-Bed,
almoſt the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and
ſufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (ſo
much desir’d) ſhould be ſuch as being tranſparent, eat
ſhort and quick, without ſtringineſs, and not too biting.
Theſe are eaten alone with Salt only, as carrying their Peper
in them; and were indeed by Dioſcorides and Pliny
celebrated above all Roots whatſoever; inſomuch as in the Delphic
Temple, there was Raphanus ex auro dicatus, a Radish of ſolid
Gold; and ’tis ſaid of Moſchius, that he wrote a whole
Volume in their praiſe. Notwithſtanding all which, I am ſure,
the great ⁴⁰Hippocrates utterly condemns them,
as Vitioſoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles. And the Naturaliſt
calls it Cibus Illiberalis, fitter for Ruſtics than Gentlemens
[38] Tables.
And indeed (beſides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us,
that as the Prince of Phyſicians writes, It is hard of Digeſtion,
Inimicous to the Stomach, cauſing nauſeous Eructations,
and ſometimes Vomiting, tho’ otherwiſe Diuretic, and
thought to repel the Vapours of Wine, when the Wits were at
their genial Club. Dioſcorides and ⁴¹Galen
differ about their Eating; One preſcribes it before Meals, the latter
for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more
Nouriſhing.

There is a Raphanus ruſticanus, the Spaniſh black
Horſe Radish, of a hotter quality, and not ſo friendly to
the Head; but a notable Antiſcorbutic, which may be eaten all
the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Compoſition
of Muſtard; as are alſo the thin Shavings, mingled with
our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an
excellent and univerſal Condiment. Take Horſe-Radiſh,
whilſt newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwiſe laid to ſteep
in Water a competent time; then grate it on a Grater which
has no bottom, that ſo it may paſs thro’, like a Mucilage, into
a Diſh of Earthen Ware: This [39] temper’d with Vinegar, in which a
little Sugar has been diſſolv’d, you have a Sauce
ſupplying Muſtard to the Sallet, and ſerving
likewiſe for any Diſh beſides.

52. Rampion, Rapunculus, or the Eſculent Campanula: The
tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like thoſe of Radiſhes,
but much more Nouriſhing.

53. Rocket, Eruca Spaniſh; hot and dry, to be qualified with
Lettuce, Purcelain, and the reſt, &c. See Tarragon.

Roccombo. See Onions.

54. Roſemary, Roſmarinus; Soverainly Cephalic, and
for the Memory, Sight, and Nerves, incomparable: And
tho’ not us’d in the Leaf with our Sallet furniture, yet the Flowers,
a little bitter, are always welcome in Vinegar; but above all, a
freſh Sprig or two in a Glaſs of Wine. See Flowers.

55. Sage, Salvia; hot and dry. The tops of the Red, well
pick’d and waſh’d (being often defil’d with Venomous Slime, and almoſt
imperceptible Inſects) with the Flowers, retain all
[40] the
noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more eſpecially for the Head,
Memory, Eyes, and all Paralytical Affections. In
ſhort, ’tis a Plant endu’d with ſo many and wonderful
Properties, as that the aſſiduous uſe of it is ſaid to
render Men Immortal: We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities
of the young Leaves; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet;
yet ſo as not to domineer.

Salſifax, Scorzonera. See Vipergraſs.

56. Sampier, Crithmum: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about Dover,
&c.) not only Pickl’d, but crude and cold, when young and
tender (and ſuch as we may Cultivate, and have in our Kitchin-Gardens,
almoſt the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its Aromatic, and
other excellent Vertues and Effects againſt the Spleen, Cleanſing
the Paſſages, ſharpning Appetite, &c. ſo far
preferrable to moſt of our hotter Herbs, and Sallet-Ingredients,
that I have long wonder’d, it has not been long ſince propagated in
the Potagere, as it is in France; from whence I have often
receiv’d the Seeds, which have proſper’d better, and more kindly with
me, than what comes from our own Coaſts: It does not indeed Pickle
ſo well, as [41]
being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other reſpects for
compoſing Sallets, it has nothing like it.

57. Scalions, Aſcalonia, Cepæ; The French
call them Appetites, which it notably quickens and ſtirs up:
Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The Italians ſteep
them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with Oyl, Vinegar,
Salt, &c.

58. Scurvy-graſs, Cochlearia, of the Garden, but eſpecially
that of the Sea, is ſharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like Naſturtium,
prevalent in the Scorbute. A few of the tender Leaves may be
admitted in our Compoſition. See Naſturtium Indicum.

59. Sellery, Apium Italicum, (and of the Petroſeline
Family) was formerly a ſtranger with us (nor very long ſince in
Italy) is an hot and more generous ſort of Macedonian Perſley,
or Smallage. The tender Leaves of the Blancht Stalk do well
in our Sallet, as likewiſe the ſlices of the whiten’d
Stems, which being crimp and ſhort, firſt peel’d and ſlit
long wiſe, are eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt,
and Peper; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac’d in
the [42]
middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Mens Tables, and Prætors
Feaſts, as the Grace of the whole Board. Caution is to be
given of a ſmall red Worm, often lurking in theſe Stalks,
as does the green in Fennil.

Shallots. See Onion.

60. Skirrets, Siſarum; hot and moiſt, corroborating, and
good for the Stomach, exceedingly nouriſhing, wholſome and
delicate; of all the Root-kind, not ſubject to be Windy, and
ſo valued by the Emperor Tiberius, that he accepted them for
Tribute.

This excellent Root is ſeldom eaten raw; but being boil’d, ſtew’d,
roaſted under the Embers, bak’d in Pies, whole, ſliced, or in
pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. ‘Tis reported they were
heretofore ſomething bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, Acetoſa: of which there are divers kinds. The French
Acetocella, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the North
of England; Roman Oxalis; the broad German, &c.
but the beſt is of Green-Land: by nature cold, Abſterſive,
Acid, ſharpning Appetite, aſſwages Heat, cools the Liver,
ſtrengthens the Heart; [43] is an Antiſcorbutic, reſiſting
Putrefaction, and imparting ſo grateful a quickneſs to the reſt,
as ſupplies the want of Orange, Limon, and other Omphacia,
and therefore never to be excluded. Vide Wood-Sorrel.

62. Sow-thiſtle, Sonchus; of the Intybus-kind. Galen
was us’d to eat it as Lettuce; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco.
Ambaſſador and his Retinue.

63. Sparagus, Aſparagus (ab Aſperitate)
temperately hot, and moiſt; Cordial, Diuretic, eaſie
of Digeſtion, and next to Fleſh, nothing more nourishing,
as Sim. Sethius, an excellent Phyſician holds. They are ſometimes,
but very ſeldom, eaten raw with Oyl, and Vinegar; but
with more delicacy (the bitterneſs firſt exhauſted) being
ſo ſpeedily boil’d, as not to loſe the verdure and
agreeable tenderneſs; which is done by letting the Water boil, before
you put them in. I do not eſteem the Dutch great and larger
ſort (eſpecially rais’d by the rankneſs of the Beds) ſo
ſweet and agreeable, as thoſe of a moderate ſize.

64. Spinach, Spinachia: of old not us’d in Sallets, and the
oftner kept out the better; I [44] ſpeak of the crude: But being
boil’d to a Pult, and without other Water than its own moiſture,
is a moſt excellent Condiment with Butter, Vinegar, or
Limon, for almoſt all ſorts of boil’d Fleſh, and may
accompany a Sick Man’s Diet. ‘Tis Laxative and Emollient,
and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho’ by original a Spaniard)
may be had at almoſt any Season, and in all places.

Stone-Crop, Sedum Minus. See Trick-Madame.

65. Succory, Cichorium, an Intube; erratic and wild, with a
narrow dark Leaf, different from the Sative, tho’ probably by
culture only; and for being very bitter, a little edulcorated with
Sugar and Vinegar, is by ſome eaten in the Summer, and
more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See Endive.

66. Tansy, Tanacetum; hot and cleanſing; but in regard of its
domineering reliſh, ſparingly mixt with our cold Sallet,
and much fitter (tho’ in very ſmall quantity) for the Pan, being
qualified with the Juices of other freſh Herbs, Spinach, Green
Corn, Violet, Primrose-Leaves, &c. at entrance of
the Spring, and then [45]
fried browniſh, is eaten hot with the Juice of Orange and Sugar,
as one of the moſt agreeable of all the boil’d Herbaceous Diſhes.

67. Tarragon, Draco Herba, of Spaniſh Extraction; hot
and ſpicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like thoſe of Rochet,
never to be ſecluded our Compoſition, eſpecially where
there is much Lettuce. ‘Tis highly cordial and friendly to the
Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakneſs of the Ventricle, &c.

68. Thiſtle, Carduus Mariæ; our Lady’s milky or dappl’d
Thiſtle, diſarm’d of its Prickles, is worth eſteem: The
young Stalk about May, being peel’d and ſoak’d in Water, to
extract the bitterneſs, boil’d or raw, is a very wholſome Sallet,
eaten with Oyl, Salt, and Peper; ſome eat them
ſodden in proper Broath, or bak’d in Pies, like the Artichoak;
but the tender Stalk boil’d or fry’d, ſome preferr; both Nouriſhing
and Reſtorative.

69. Trick-Madame, Sedum minus, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moiſt,
grateful to the Stomach. The Cimata and Tops, when young and
tender, dreſs’d as Purſelane, is a frequent Ingredient in
our cold Sallet.

[46]

70. Turnep, Rapum; moderately hot and moiſt: Napus; the
long Navet is certainly the moſt delicate of them, and best
Nouriſhing. Pliny ſpeaks of no fewer than ſix ſorts,
and of ſeveral Colours; ſome of which were ſuspected to be
artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr’d; by others the
red Bohemian. But of whatever kind, being ſown upon the Hot-bed,
and no bigger than ſeedling Radiſh, they do excellently
in Compoſition; as do alſo the Stalks of the common Turnep,
when firſt beginning to Bud.

And here ſhould not be forgotten, that wholſome, as well as
agreeable ſort of Bread, we are ⁴²taught
to make; and of which we have eaten at the greateſt Perſons
Tables, hardly to be distinguiſh’d from the beſt of Wheat.

Let the Turneps firſt be peel’d, and boil’d in Water till
ſoft and tender; then ſtrongly preſſing out the Juice,
mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their
weight of Wheat-Meal, ſeaſon it as you do other Bread,
and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment,
faſhion the Paſte into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

[47] Some
roaſt Turneps in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with
Sugar and Butter.

71. Vine, Vitis, the Capreols, Tendrels, and Claſpers
(like thoſe of the Hop, &c.) whilſt very young, have
an agreeable Acid, which may be eaten alone, or with other Sallet.

72. Viper-graſs, Tragopogon, Scorzonera, Salſifex,
&c. tho’ Medicinal, and excellent againſt the Palpitation of
the Heart, Faintings, Obſtruction of the Bowels,
&c. are beſides a very ſweet and pleaſant Sallet;
being laid to ſoak out the bitterneſs, then peel’d, may be eaten
raw, or Condited; but beſt of all ſtew’d with Marrow,
Spice, Wine, &c. as Artichoak, Skirrets,
&c. ſliced or whole. They likewiſe may bake, fry, or boil
them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.

73. Wood-Sorrel, Trifolium acetoſum, or Alleluja, of
the nature of other Sorrels.

To all which might we add ſundry more, formerly had in deliciis,
ſince grown obſolete or quite neglected with us: As among
the nobleſt Bulbs, that of the Tulip; a Root of which
has been valued not to eat, but for the Flower (and yet eaten by miſtake)
at more than an hundred [48]
Pounds. The young freſh Bulbs are ſweet and high of taſte.
The Aſphodil or Daffodil; a Sallet ſo rare
in Heſiod’s Days, that Lobel thinks it the Parſnep,
tho’ not at all like it; however it was (with the Mallow) taken
anciently for any Edule-Root.

The Ornithogalons roaſted, as they do Cheſtnuts,
are eaten by the Italians, the wild yellow eſpecially, with Oyl,
Vinegar, and Peper. And ſo the ſmall tuberous
Roots of Gramen Amygdaloſum; which they alſo roaſt,
and make an Emulſion of, to uſe in Broaths as a great Reſtorative.
The Oxylapathum, us’d of old; in the time of Galen was eaten
frequently. As alſo Dracontium, with the Mordicant Arum
Theophraſti, which Dodonæus teaches how to Dreſs.
Nay, divers of the Satyrions, which ſome condited with Sugar,
others boil’d in Milk for a great Nouriſher, now diſcarded. But
what think we of the Cicuta, which there are who reckon among Sallet
Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, ’tis certainly Mortiferous
in ours. To these add the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria,
&c. nay, the Green Poppy, by most accounted among the deadly
Poyſons: How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be,
in reading ancient Authors; leſt they happen to be impos’d on, where
they treat of [49]
Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other
Nations and People of more robuſt and ſtrong conſtitutions?
beſsides the hazard of being miſtaken in the Names of divers Simples,
not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in Botany.

There are beſsides ſeveral remaining, which tho’ Abdicated
here with us, find Entertainment ſtill in Foreign Countries: As the
large Heliotrope and Sun-flower (e’re it comes to expand, and
ſhew its golden Face) which being dreſs’d as the Artichoak,
is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Diſcovery. I once made Macaroons
with the ripe blanch’d Seeds, but the Turpentine did ſo
domineer over all, that it did not anſwer expectation. The Radix
Perſonata mounting with their young Heads, Lyſimachia
ſiliquoſa glabra minor, when freſh and tender, begins
to come into the Sallet-Tribe. The pale whiter Popy, is
eaten by the Genoueſe. By the Spaniards, the tops of Wormwood
with Oyl alone, and without ſo much as Bread;
profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offenſive to the Head; As is alſo
Coriander and Rue, which Galen was accuſtom’d to
eat raw, and by it ſelf, with Oyl and Salt, as
exceedingly grateful, as well as wholſome, and of great vertue againſt
Infection. Pliny, I remember, reports it to be [50] of ſuch effect for the Preſervation
of Sight; that the Painters of his Time, us’d to devour a
great quantity of it. And it is ſtill by the Italians
frequently mingled among their Sallets. The Lapatha Perſonata
(common Burdock) comes now and then to the beſt Tables, about
April, and when young, before the Burrs and Clots
appear, being ſtrip’d, and the bitterneſs ſoaked out,
treated as the Chardoon, is eaten in Poiverade; Some alſo
boil them. More might here be reckon’d up, but theſe may ſuffice;
ſince as we find ſome are left off, and gone out, ſo others
be introduc’d and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and
Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The Cucumber it
ſelf, now ſo univerſally eaten, being accounted little
better than Poyſon, even within our Memory, as already noted.

To conclude, and after all that has been ſaid of Plants and Salleting,
formerly in great eſteem, (but ſince obſolete and quite
rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium ſhould
come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a ⁴³Plant
formerly ſo highly priz’d, and rare for the richneſs of its Taſte
and other [51]
Vertues; that as it was dedicated to Apollo, and hung up in his
Temple at Delphi; So we read of one ſingle Root brought to the
Emperor Nero for an extraordinary Preſent; and the Drug ſo
eſteem’d, that the Romans had long before amaſs’d a
quantity of it, and kept it in the Treaſury, till Julius Cæſar
rob’d it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it
was of that Account; that as a ſacred Plant, thoſe of the Cyrenaic
Africa, honour’d the very Figure of it, by ſtamping it on the
Reverſe of their ⁴⁴Coin; and when they would commend a thing
for its worth to the Skies,
Βατ-ου σιλφιον,
grew into a Proverb: Battus
having been the Founder of the City Cyrene, near which it only
grew. ‘Tis indeed conteſted among the Learned Botanoſophiſts,
whether this Plant was not the ſame with Laſerpitium, and
the Laſer it yields, the odoriferous ⁴⁵Benzoin?
But doubtleſs had we the true and genuine Silphium (for it
appears to have been often ſophiſticated, and a ſpurious
ſort brought into Italy) it would ſoon recover its [52] priſtine
Reputation, and that it was not celebrated ſo for nothing
extraordinary; ſince beſsides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a
wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Reſtorer of loſt
Appetite, and Maſculine Vigour, &c. and that they made uſe
of it almoſt in every thing they eat.

But ſhould we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is,
by many, thought to be no other than the ⁴⁶Faetid
Aſſa our nicer Sallet-Eaters (who yet beſtow as
odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick) would cry out upon it as
intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as Ariſtophanes
has brought it in, and ſufficiently deſcrib’d it; ſo the Scholiaſt
upon the place, puts it out of Controverſy: And that they made uſe
both of the Leaves, Stalk, (and Extract eſpecially)
as we now do Garlick, and other Hautgouts as nauſeous
altogether. In the mean time, Garcius, Bontius, and others,
aſſure us, that the Indians at this day univerſally
ſauce their Viands with it; and the Bramins (who eat no Fleſh
at all) inrich their [53]
Sallets, by constantly rubbing the Diſhes with it. Nor are
ſome of our own ſkilful Cooks Ingnorant, how to condite
and uſe it, with the Applauſe of thoſe, who, ignorant of
the Secret, have admir’d the richneſs of the Guſt it has
imparted, when it has been ſubſtituted inſtead of all our
Cipollati, and other ſeaſonings of that Nature.

And thus have we done with the various Species of all ſuch Eſculents
as may properly enter the Compoſition of our Acetaria, and
cold Sallet. And if I have briefly touch’d upon their Natures,
Degrees, and primary Qualities, which Intend or Remit,
as to the Scale of Heat, Cold, Drineſs, Moiſture,
&c. (which is to be underſtood according to the different Texture
of their component Particles) it has not been without what I
thought neceſſary for the Inſtruction of the Gatherer,
and Sallet-Dreſſer; how he ought to chooſe, ſort,
and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.

What Care and Circumſpection ſhould attend the choice and
collection of Sallet Herbs, has been partly ſhew’d. I can
therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of ſome,
who tell us, that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a
Sallet as a Wiſer Man. Becauſe, ſay they, one
can hardly chooſe amiſs, provided [54] the Plants be green, young, and
tender, where-ever they meet with them: But ſad experience ſhews,
how many fatal Miſtakes have been committed by thoſe who took
the deadly Cicutæ, Hemlocks, Aconits, &c.
for Garden Perſley, and Parſneps; the Myrrhis
Sylveſtris, or Cow-Weed, for Chaerophilum, (Chervil)
Thapſia for Fennel; the wild Chondrilla for Succory;
Dogs-Mercury inſtead of Spinach: Papaver
Corniculatum Luteum, and horn’d Poppy for Eringo; Oenanthe
aquatica for the Paluſtral Apium, and a world more, whoſe
dire effects have been many times ſudden Death, and the cause of
Mortal Accidents to thoſe who have eaten of them unwittingly: But
ſuppoſing ſome of thoſe wild and unknown Plants ſhould
not prove ſo deleterious and ⁴⁷unwholſome;
yet may others of them annoy the Head, Brain, and Genus
Nervoſum, weaken the Eyes, offend the Stomach,
affect the Liver, torment the Bowels, and diſcover
their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms. And therefore
ſuch Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nouriſhing
and Refreſhing, are ſtudiouſly to be rejected. So
highly neceſſary it is, that what we ſometimes find in old
Books concerning Edules of other [55] Countries and Climates
(frequently call’d by the Names of ſuch as are wholſome in ours,
and among us) miſlead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we
read of divers Popes and Emperors, that had ſometimes
Learned Phyſicians for their Maſter-Cooks. I
cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr.
Ray ⁴⁸(Tranſact. Num. 238.) who
thinks it the Intereſt of Mankind, that all Perſons ſhould
be caution’d of advent’ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their
Prejudice: Of ſuch, I ſay, with our excellent ⁴⁹Poet
(a little chang’d)

The Illuſtrious and Learned Columna has, by obſerving
what ⁵⁰Inſects
did uſually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants.
But I ſhould not ſo readily adventure upon it on that account,
as to its wholſomneſs: For tho’ indeed one may ſafely eat
of a Peach or [56]
Abricot, after a Snail has been Taſter, I queſtion
whether it might be ſo of all other Fruits and Herbs attack’d by
other Inſects: Nor would one conclude, the Hyoſcyamus
harmleſs, because the Cimex feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr.
Lyſter has diſcover’d. Notice ſhould therefore be
taken what Eggs of Inſects are found adhering to the
Leaves of Sallet-Herbs, and frequently cleave ſo firmly to
them, as not eaſily to be waſh’d off, and ſo not being
taken notice of, paſſing for accidental and harmleſs Spots
only, may yet produce very ill effects.

Grillus, who according to the Doctrine of Tranſmigration
(as Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, been a Beaſt;
diſcourſes how much better he fed, and liv’d, than when he was
turn’d to Man again, as knowing then, what Plants were beſt
and moſt proper for him: Whilſt Men, Sarcophagiſts
(Fleſh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to ſeek. And ’tis
indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other πανφαγα,
and herbaceous Animals which feed on
Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of
their Food: But Men (beſsides the Smell and Taſte)
have, or ſhould have, Reaſon, Experience, and the
Aids of Natural Philoſophy to be their Guides in this Matter.
We have heard of Plants, that (like the Baſilisk) kill
and [57]
infect by ⁵¹looking on them only; and ſome by
the touch. The truth is, there’s need of all the Senſes to determine
Analogically concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the Leaves
alone of many Edule Plants: The moſt eminent Principles of
near the whole Tribe of Sallet Vegetables, inclining rather to Acid
and Sowre than to any other quality, eſpecially, Salt, Sweet,
or Luſcious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir’d, how to
ſuit and mingle our Sallet-Ingredients, ſo as may beſt
agree with the Conſtitution of the (vulgarly reputed) Humors
of thoſe who either ſtand in need of, or affect theſe Refreſhments,
and by ſo adjuſting them, that as nothing ſhould be ſuffer’d
to domineer, ſo ſhould none of them loſe their genuine Guſt,
Savour, or Vertue. To this end,

The Cooler, and moderately refreſhing, ſhould be choſen to
extinguiſh Thirſt, attemper the Blood, repreſs Vapours, &c.

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be
qualify’d by the Cold and Moiſt: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the
Sub-acid and gentler Herbs: The Mordicant [58] and pungent,
and ſuch as repreſs or diſcuſs Flatulency (revive the
Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with ſuch as abate, and take off the
keenneſs, mollify and reconcile the more harſh and churliſh:
The mild and inſipid, animated with piquant and brisk: The Aſtringent
and Binders, with ſuch as are Laxative and Deobſtruct: The over-ſluggish,
raw, and unactive, with thoſe that are Eupeptic, and promote
Concoction: There are Pectorals for the Breaſt and Bowels. Thoſe
of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or leſs Specific;
and as their Characters (tho’ briefly) are deſcrib’d in our foregoing
Catalogue: For notwithſtanding it ſeem in general, that
raw Sallets and Herbs have experimentally been found to be
the most ſoveraign Diet in that Endemial (and indeed with us,
Epidemical and almoſt univerſal) Contagion the Scorbute,
to which we of this Nation, and moſt other Ilanders are
obnoxious; yet, ſince the Naſturtia are ſingly, and
alone as it were, the moſt effectual, and powerful Agents in
conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the Sallet-Dreſſer
direction how to chooſe, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as
well as to ſhew what Remedies there are contain’d in our Magazine of
Sallet-Plants upon all Occaſions, rightly [59] marſhal’d and skilfully
apply’d. So as (with our ⁵²ſweet Cowley)

We have ſaid how neceſſary it is, that in the Compoſure
of a Sallet, every Plant ſhould come in to bear its part,
without being over-power’d by ſome Herb of a ſtronger Taſte,
ſo as to endanger the native Sapor and vertue of the reſt;
but fall into their places, like the Notes in Muſic, in
which there ſhould be nothing harſh or grating: And tho’
admitting ſome Diſcords (to diſtinguiſh and
illuſtrate the reſt) ſtriking in the more ſprightly,
and ſometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Diſſonancies,
and melt them into an agreeable Compoſition. Thus the Comical Maſter-Cook,
introduc’d by Damoxenus, [60] when asked πως εσις
αυτοις ονμφονια;
What Harmony there
was in Meats? The very ſame (ſays he) that a Diateſſaron,
Diapente, and Diapaſon have one to another in a Conſort
of Muſic: And that there was as great care requir’d, not to mingle ⁵³Sapores
minime conſentientes, jarring and repugnant Taſtes; looking
upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who ſhould be no better vers’d in
Democritus. The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athenæus
preſents it; and to the ſame ſenſe Macrobius,
Saturn. lib. I. cap. I. In ſhort, the main Skill of the
Artiſt lies in this:

As our ⁵⁴Paradiſian
Bard introduces Eve, dreſſing of a Sallet for her Angelical
Gueſt.

Thus, by the diſcreet choice and mixture of the Oxoleon (Oyl,
Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Compoſition is perfect;
ſo as neither the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Inſipid,
ſhould (according to the Italian Rule) preſcribe in my
Opinion; ſince One may be too profuſe, the Other
⁵⁵over-ſaving,
and the Third (like himſelf) give it no Reliſh at all: It
may be too ſharp, if it exceed a grateful Acid; too Inſulſe
and flat, if the Profuſion be extream. From all which it appears,
that a Wiſe-Man is the proper Compoſer of an excellent Sallet,
and how many Tranſcendences belong to an accompliſh’d Sallet-Dreſſer,
ſo as to emerge an exact Critic indeed, He ſhould be
skill’d in the Degrees, Terms, and various Species of Taſtes,
according to the Scheme ſet us down in the Tables of
the Learned ⁵⁶Dr. Grew, to which I refer the
Curious.

‘Tis moreover to be conſider’d, that Edule [62] Plants are
not in all their Taſtes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made
us to conſiſt of different Parts and Members, both Internal and
External; ſo require they different Juices to nouriſh and ſupply
them: Wherefore the force and activity of ſome Plants lie in the Root;
and even the Leaves of ſome Bitter-Roots are ſweet,
and è contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves,
Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction;
others being a little preſs’d or contus’d; others again Raw,
and beſt in Conſort; ſome alone, and per ſe
without any σκενασια,
Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore
muſt be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers anſwer
to theſe Qualities; and that as near as he can, they conſiſt
(I ſpeak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluſcula,
and ex foliis pubeſcentibus, or (as Martial calls them)
Prototomi rudes, and very tendereſt Parts Gems, young
Buds, and even firſt Rudiments of their ſeveral Plants;
ſuch as we ſometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver,
Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheaſants, and other
Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick’d, and almoſt
dreſs’d to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dreſſing therefore, let your Herby
Ingredients be exquiſitely cull’d, [63] and cleans’d of all worm-eaten,
ſlimy, canker’d, dry, ſpotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And
then that they be rather diſcreetly ſprinkl’d, than over-much
ſob’d with Spring-Water, eſpecially Lettuce, which Dr. ⁵⁷Muffet
thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I ſuppoſe he means of the
Cabbage-kind, whoſe heads are ſufficiently protected by
the outer Leaves which cover it. After waſhing, let them remain a
while in the Cullender, to drain the ſuperfluous moiſture:
And laſtly, ſwing them altogether gently in a clean courſe
Napkin; and ſo they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus
following.

II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient ſo indiſpenſibly and
highly neceſſary, as to have obtain’d the name of Cibarium
(and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour’d, nor
yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without
Smell, or the leaſt touch of rancid, or indeed of any other
ſensible Taſte or Scent at all; but ſmooth, light, and pleaſant
upon the Tongue; ſuch as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca
Olives afford, fit to allay the tartneſs of Vinegar, and
other Acids, yet [64]
gently to warm and humectate where it paſſes. Some who have an
averſion to Oyl, ſubſtitute freſh Butter
in its ſtead; but ’tis ſo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach,
as by no means to be allow’d.

III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids,
perfectly clear, neither ſowre, Vapid or ſpent; be of the
beſt Wine Vinegar, whether Diſtill’d, or otherwiſe Aromatiz’d,
and impregnated with the Infuſion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder,
Roſes, Roſemary, Naſturtium, &c.
inrich’d with the Vertues of the Plant.

A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape
of that Name, or the green immature Cluſters of moſt other
Grapes, preſs’d and put into a ſmall Veſſel to
ferment.

IV. Fourthly, That the Salt (aliorum Condimentorum
Condimentum, as Plutarch calls it) deterſive, penetrating,
quickning (and ſo great a reſiſter of Putrefaction, and
univerſal uſe, as to have ſometimes merited Divine
Epithets) be of the brighteſt Bay grey-Salt; moderately dried,
and contus’d, as being the leaſt Corroſive: But of this,
as of Sugar alſo, which ſome mingle with the Salt
(as warming without heating) if [65] perfectly refin’d, there would be no great
difficulty; provided none, ſave Ladies, were of the Meſs; whilſt
the perfection of Sallets, and that which gives them the name, conſiſts
in the grateful Saline Acid-point, temper’d as is directed, and
which we find to be moſt eſteem’d by judicious Palates: Some, in
the mean time, have been ſo nice, and luxuriouſly curious as for
the heightning, and (as they affect to ſpeak) giving the utmoſt
poinant and Relevèe in lieu of our vulgar Salt,
to recommend and cry-up the Eſſential-Salts and Spirits
of the moſt Sanative Vegetables; or ſuch of the Alcalizate
and Fixt; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm, Roſemary,
Wormwood, Scurvy-graſs, &c. Affirming that without
the groſs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreſhing
Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar
only: But to ſay no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts of
Vegetables; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike
in Operation, however different in Taſte, Cryſtals,
and Figure: It being a queſtion, whether they at all retain
the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples, unleſs they could
be made without Colcination. Franciſcus Redi, gives us
his Opinion of this, in a Proceſs how they are to be prepar’d;
and ſo does our [66]
Learned ⁵⁸Doctor (whom we lately nam’d) whether Lixivial,
Eſſential, Marine, or other factitious Salts
of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But ſince ’tis
thought all Fixed Salts made the common way, are little
better than our common Salt, let it ſuffice, that our Sallet-Salt
be of the beſt ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, bright, dry, and
without clamineſs.

Of Sugar (by ſome call’d Indian-Salt) as it is rarely
us’d in Sallet, it ſhould be of the beſt refined, white,
hard, cloſe, yet light and ſweet as the Madera’s: Nouriſhing,
preſerving, cleanſing, delighting the Taſte, and
preferrable to Honey for moſt uſes. Note, That
both this, Salt, and Vinegar, are to be proportion’d
to the Conſtitution, as well as what is ſaid of the Plants themſelves.
The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the Muſtard (another noble Ingredient) be of the beſt
Tewksberry; or elſe compos’d of the ſoundest and weightieſt
Yorkſhire Seed, exquiſitely ſifted, winnow’d, and
freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry’d by the Fire, temper’d
to the conſiſtence of a [67] Pap with Vinegar, in which ſhavings
of the Horſe-Radiſh have been ſteep’d: Then cutting
an Onion, and putting it into a ſmall Earthen Gally-Pot,
or ſome thick Glaſs of that ſhape; pour the Muſtard
over it, and cloſe it very well with a Cork. There be, who preſerve
the Flower and Duſt of the bruiſed Seed in a well-ſtopp’d
Glaſs, to temper, and have it freſh when they pleaſe. But
what is yet by ſome eſteem’d beyond all theſe, is compos’d
of the dried Seeds of the Indian Naſturtium, reduc’d to
Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little Levain, and ſo
from time to time made freſh, as indeed all other Muſtard
ſhould be.

Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis’d with a
poliſh’d Cannon-Bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-Diſh, or
which is moſt preferr’d, ground in a Quern contriv’d for this
purpoſe only.

VI. Sixthly, That the Pepper (white or black) be not bruis’d
to too ſmall a Duſt; which, as we caution’d, is very
prejudicial. And here let me mention the Root of the Minor
Pimpinella, or ſmall Burnet Saxifrage; which being dried,
is by ſome extoll’d beyond all other Peppers, and more wholſom.

Of other Strewings and Aromatizers, which [68] may likewiſe
be admitted to inrich our Sallet, we have already ſpoken,
where we mention Orange and Limon-peel; to which may alſo
be added, Jamaica-Pepper, Juniper-berries, &c. as of
ſingular Vertue.

Nor here ſhould I omit (the mentioning at leaſt of) Saffron,
which the German Houſewives have a way of forming into
Balls, by mingling it with a little Honey; which throughly dried,
they reduce to Powder, and ſprinkle it over their Sallets for
a noble Cordial. Thoſe of Spain and Italy, we
know, generally make uſe of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture
with almoſt every thing they eat; But its being ſo apt to
prevail above every thing with which ’tis blended, we little incourage its
admittance into our Sallet.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of freſh and new-laid Eggs,
boil’d moderately hard, to be mingl’d and maſh’d with the Muſtard,
Oyl, and Vinegar; and part to cut into quarters, and eat
with the Herbs.

VIII. Eighthly, (according to the ſuper-curious) that
the Knife, with which the Sallet Herbs are cut (eſpecially
Oranges, Limons, &c.) be of Silver, and by no
means of Steel, which [69] all Acids are apt to corrode, and
retain a Metalic reliſh of.

IX. Ninthly and Laſtly, That the Saladiere,
(Sallet-Diſhes) be of Porcelane, or of the Holland-Delft-Ware;
neither too deep nor ſhallow, according to the quantity of the Sallet
Ingredients; Pewter, or even Silver, not at all ſo well
agreeing with Oyl and Vinegar, which leave their ſeveral
Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Diſhes, in
which to beat and mingle the Liquid Vehicles; and a ſecond to
receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour’d; and then
with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually ſtirr’d, ’till all the
Furniture be equally moiſten’d: Some, who are huſbands of their
Oyl, pour at firſt the Oyl alone, as more apt to
communicate and diffuſe its Slipperineſs, than when it is
mingled and beaten with the Acids; which they pour on laſt of
all; and ’tis incredible how ſmall a quantity of Oyl (in this
quality, like the gilding of Wyer) is ſufficient, to imbue a
very plentiful aſſembly of Sallet-Herbs.

The Sallet-Gatherer likewiſe ſhould be provided with a
light, and neatly made Withy-Dutch-Basket, divided into ſeveral
Partitions. Thus inſtructed and knowing in the Apparatus;
[70] the Species,
Proportions, and manner of Dreſſing, according to
the ſeveral Seaſons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble ⁵⁹Mr. Boyle,
what Herbs were proper and fit to make Sallets with, and how
beſt to order them? we have here (by the Aſſiſtance of
Mr. London, His Majeſty’s Principal Gard’ner) reduc’d them to
a competent Number, not exceeding Thirty Five; but which may be
vary’d and inlarg’d, by taking in, or leaving out, any other Sallet-Plant,
mention’d in the foregoing Liſt, under theſe three or four
Heads.

But all theſe ſorts are not to be had at the very ſame
time, and therefore we have divided them into the Quarterly Seaſons,
each containing and laſting Three Months.

Note, That by Parts is to be underſtood a Pugil;
which is no more than one does uſually take up between the Thumb and
the two next Fingers. By Faſcicule a reaſonable full
Grip, or Handful.

[pg]

[Transcriber’s Note: The following tables have been modified from their
original layout. The left-most columns are converted to “section headers”,
the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections,
and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the
restructuring. As you can see from following the link to the image of the
table, the original structure is very wide.]

See the original table as an image.

IX. Blanch’d
	Species.				Ordering and Culture.
	1. Endive,				Tied-up to Blanch.
	2. Cichory,				Earth’d-up
	3. Sellery,
	4. Sweet-Fennel,
	5. Rampions,
	6. Roman		Lettuce,		Tied-up to Blanch.
	7. Coſſe
	8. Sileſian				Tied cloſe up.
	9. Cabbage				Pome and Blanch of themſelves.
XXVI. Green Unblanch’d
	Species.				Ordering and Culture.
	10. Lob-Lettuce,				Leaves, all of a midling ſize.
	11. Corn-Sallet,
	12. Purſlane,
	13. Creſſes broad,				Seed-Leaves, and the next to them.
	14. Spinach, curled,
	15. Sorrel French,				The fine young Leaves only, with the first Shoots.
	16. Sorrel, Greenland,
	17. Radiſh,				Only the tender young Leaves.
	18. Creſſes,				The Seed-Leaves, and thoſe only next them.
	19. Turnep,				The Seed-Leaves only.
	20. Muſtard,
	21. Scurvy-graſs,
	22. Chervil,				The young Leaves immediately after the Seedlings.
	23. Burnet,
	24. Rocket, Spaniſh
	25. Perſley,
	26. Tarragon,				The tender Shoots and Tops.
	27. Mints,
	28. Sampier,				The young tender Leaves and Shoots.
	29. Balm,
	30. Sage, Red
	31. Shalots,				The tender young Leaves.
	32. Cives and Onion,
	33. Naſturtium, Indian				The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.
	34. Rampion, Belgrade				The Seed-Leaves and young Tops.
	35. Trip-Madame,

Month. January, February, and March.
Order. and Cult.		Species.				Proportion.
Blanch’d as before		Rampions,				10		Roots in number.
		Endive,				2
		Succory,				5
		Fennel, ſweet,				10
		Sellery,				4
Green and Unblanch’d		Lamb-Lettuce,				A pugil of each.
		Lob-Lettuce,
		Radiſh,				Three parts each.
		Creſſes,
		Turneps,				Of each One part.
		Muſtard Seedlings,
		Scurvy-graſs,
		Spinach,				Two parts.
		Sorrel, Greenland,				One part of each.
		Sorrel, French,
		Chervel, ſweet,
		Burnet,
		Rocket,
		Tarragon,				Twenty large Leaves.
		Balm,				One ſmall part of each.
		Mint,
		Sampier,
		Shalots,				Very few.
		Cives,
		Cabbage-Winter,				Two pugils or ſmall handfuls.
Month. April, May, and June.
Order. and Cult.		Species.				Proportion.
Blanch’d		Lop,		Lettuce.		Of each a pugil.
		Sileſian Winter
		Roman Winter
Green Herbs Unblanch’d. Note, That the young Seedling Leaves of Orange and Limon may all theſe Months be mingled with the Sallet.		Radiſhes,				Three parts.
		Creſſes,				Two parts.
		Purſelan,				1 Faſciat, or pretty full gripe.
		Sorrel, French				Two parts.
		Sampier,				One part.
		Onions, young				Six parts.
		Sage-tops, the Red,				Two parts.
		Perſley,				Of each One part.
		Creſſes, the Indian,
		Lettuce, Belgrade,
		Trip-Madame,
		Chervil, ſweet,
		Burnet,				Two parts.
Month. July, Auguſt, and September.
Order. and Cult.		Species.				Proportion.
Blanch’d, and may be eaten by themſelves with ſome Naſturtium-Flowers.		Sileſian Lettuce,				One whole Lettuce.
		Roman Lettuce,				Two parts.
		Creſs,
		Cabbage,				Four parts.
Green Herbs by themſelves, or mingl’d with the Blanch’d.		Creſſes,				Two parts.
		Naſturtium,
		Purſlane,				One part.
		Lop-Lettuce,
		Belgrade, or Crumpen-Lettuce,				Two parts.
		Tarragon,				One part.
		Sorrel, French				Two parts of each.
		Burnet,
		Trip-Madame,				One part.
Month. October, November, and December.
Order. and Cult.		Species.				Proportion.
Blanch’d		Endive,				Two if large, four if ſmall, Stalk and part of the Root and Tendereſt Leaves.
		Sellery,
		Lop-Lettuce,				An handful of each.
		Lambs-Lettuce,
		Radiſh,				Three parts.
		Creſſes,				Two parts.
Green		Turneps,				One part of each.
		Muſtard Seedlings,
		Creſſes, broad				Two parts of each.
		Spinach,

See the original table as an image.

[pg]

[71]

Farther Directions concerning the proper Seaſons for the
Gathering, Compoſing, and Dreſſing of a
Sallet.

A nd Firſt, as to the Seaſon
both Plants and Roots are then properly to be Gather’d,
and in prime, when moſt they abound with Juice and in Vigour: Some in
the Spring, or a little anticipating it before they Bloſſom,
or are in full Flower: Some in the Autumnal Months; which later Seaſon
many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho’ not in ſuch exuberance, yet as
being then better concocted, and ſo render’d fit for Salleting,
’till the Spring begins a freſh to put forth new, and tender Shoots
and Leaves.

This, indeed, as to the Root, newly taken out of the Ground is
true; and therefore ſhould ſuch have their Germination
ſtopt the ſooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both
Maturing and Impregnating them; as does Heat the contrary, which now would
but exhauſt them: But for thoſe other Eſculents and
Herbs imploy’d in our Compoſition of Sallets, [72] the early Spring,
and enſuing Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to Seed)
is certainly the moſt natural, and kindly Seaſon to collect and
accommodate them for the Table. Let none then conſult Culpeper,
or the Figure-flingers, to inform them when the governing Planet
is in its Exaltation; but look upon the Plants themſelves,
and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.

Moreover, in Gathering, Reſpect is to be had to their
Proportions, as provided for in the Table under that Head, be the
Quality whatſoever: For tho’ there is indeed nothing more wholſome
than Lettuce and Muſtard for the Head and Eyes;
yet either of them eaten in exceſs, were highly prejudicial to them
both: Too much of the firſt extreamly debilitating and
weakning the Ventricle, and haſtning the further decay of
ſickly Teeth; and of the ſecond the Optic
Nerves, and Sight it ſelf; the like may be ſaid of
all the reſt. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Perſon, well
acquainted with the Nature and Properties of Sallet-Herbs, &c.
to be both the fitteſt Gatherer and Compoſer too;
which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with
our Table and Catalogue.

We purpoſely, and in tranſitu only, take notice here of
the Pickl’d, Muriated, or otherwiſe [73] prepared Herbs; excepting ſome
ſuch Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digeſtion,
and not fit to be eaten altogether Crude, (of which in the Appendix)
and among which I reckon Aſh-keys, Broom-buds and Pods,
Haricos, Gurkems, Olives, Capers, the Buds and
Seeds of Naſturtia, Young Wall-nuts, Pine-apples,
Eringo, Cherries, Cornelians, Berberries, &c.
together with ſeveral Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; Ordinary Pot-herbs,
Anis, Ciſtus Hortorum, Horminum, Pulegium,
Satureia, Thyme; the intire Family of Pulſe and Legumena;
or other Sauces, Pies, Tarts, Omlets, Tanſie,
Farces, &c. Condites and Preſerves with Sugar
by the Hand of Ladies; tho’ they are all of them the genuine Production of
the Garden, and mention’d in our Kalendar, together with
their Culture; whilſt we confine our ſelves to ſuch Plants
and Eſculenta as we find at hand; delight our ſelves to
gather, and are eaſily prepar’d for an Extemporary Collation,
or to Uſher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho’ haply not more
Agreeable) Diſhes, as the Cuſtom is.

But there now ſtarts up a Queſtion, Whether it were better, or
more proper, to Begin with Sallets, or End and Conclude with
them? Some think the harder Meats ſhould firſt be eaten for
[74] better
Concoction; others, thoſe of eaſiest Digeſtion, to make
way, and prevent Obſtruction; and this makes for our Sallets,
Horarii, and Fugaces Fructus (as they call ’em) to be eaten
firſt of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great Hippocrates,
and Galen, and of Celſus before him. And therefore the
French do well, to begin with their Herbaceous Pottage, and
for the Cruder, a Reason is given:

And tho’ this Cuſtom came in about Domitian’s time⁶¹, ο μ αρκαιοι,
they anciently did quite the contrary,

But of later Times, they were conſtant at the Ante-cœnia,
eating plentifully of Sallet, eſpecially of Lettuce,
and more refrigerating Herbs. Nor without Cauſe: For drinking
liberally they were found to expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the
genial Compotation, the ſpirituous [75] Liquor gently conciliating
Sleep: Beſides, that being of a crude nature, more diſpos’d, and
apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and diſturb a ſurcharg’d Stomach;
they thought convenient to begin with Sallets, and innovate the
ancient Uſage.

The Spaniards, notwithſtanding, eat but ſparingly of
Herbs at Dinner, eſpecially Lettuce, beginning with Fruit,
even before the Olio and Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking
their Wine pure, and eating the beſt Bread in the World; ſo as
it ſeems the Queſtion ſtill remains undecided with them,

[76]

And now ſince we mention’d Fruit, there riſes another
Scruple: Whether Apples, Pears, Abricots, Cherries,
Plums, and other Tree, and Ort-yard-Fruit, are to be
reckon’d among Salleting; and when likewiſe moſt ſeaſonably
to be eaten? But as none of theſe do properly belong to our Catalogue
of Herbs and Plants, to which this Diſcourſe is
confin’d (beſsides what we may occaſionally ſpeak of
hereafter) there is a very uſeful ⁶⁵Treatiſe on that
Subject already publiſh’d. We haſten then in the next place to
the Dreſſing, and Compoſing of our Sallet:
For by this time, our Scholar may long to ſee the Rules
reduc’d to Practice, and Refreſh himſelf with what he
finds growing among his own Lactuceta and other Beds of the Kitchin-Garden.

[77]

DRESSING

I am not
ambitious of being thought an excellent Cook, or of thoſe who
ſet up, and value themſelves, for their skill in Sauces;
ſuch as was Mithacus a Culinary Philoſopher, and
other Eruditæ Gulæ; who read Lectures of Hautgouts,
like the Archeſtratus in Athenæus: Tho’ after
what we find the Heroes did of old, and ſee them chining out
the ſlaughter’d Ox, dreſſing the Meat, and do the
Offices of both Cook and Butcher, (for ſo ⁶⁶Homer
repreſents Achilles himſelf, and the reſt of thoſe
Illuſtrious Greeks) I ſay, after this, let none reproach
our Sallet-Dreſſer, or diſdain ſo clean,
innocent, ſweet, and Natural a Quality; compar’d with the Shambles
Filth and Nidor, Blood and Cruelty; whilſt all the World were
Eaters, and Compoſers of Sallets in its beſt
and brighteſt Age.

The Ingredients therefore gather’d and proportion’d, as above; Let the Endive
have all its out-ſide Leaves ſtripped off, ſlicing in
the White: In like manner the Sellery is alſo to [78] have the
hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm’d and divided; ſlicing-in the
blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts.

Lettuce, Greſſes, Radiſh, &c. (as
was directed) muſt be exquiſitely pick’d, cleans’d, waſh’d,
and put into the Strainer; ſwing’d, and ſhaken gently, and, if
you pleaſe, ſeparately, or all together; Becauſe ſome
like not ſo well the Blanch’d and Bitter Herbs, if eaten with
the reſt: Others mingle Endive, Succory, and Rampions,
without diſtinction, and generally eat Sellery by it ſelf,
as alſo Sweet Fennel.

From April till September (and during all the Hot Months)
may Guinny-Pepper, and Horſe-Radiſh be left out;
and therefore we only mention them in the Dreſſing, which ſhould
be in this manner.

Your Herbs being handſomely parcell’d, and ſpread on a
clean Napkin before you, are to be mingl’d together in one of the Earthen
glaz’d Diſhes: Then, for the Oxoleon; Take of clear, and
perfectly good Oyl-Olive, three Parts; of ſharpeſt Vinegar
(⁶⁷ſweeteſt
of all Condiments) Limon, or Juice of Orange, one
Part; and therein let ſteep ſome Slices of Horſe-Radiſh,
with a [79]
little Salt; Some in a ſeparate Vinegar, gently bruiſe
a Pod of Guinny-Pepper, ſtraining both the Vinegars
apart, to make Uſe of Either, or One alone, or of both, as they beſt
like; then add as much Tewkesbury, or other dry Muſtard
grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle all theſe
very well together; but pour not on the Oyl and Vinegar,
’till immediately before the Sallet is ready to be eaten: And then
with the Yolk of two new-laid Eggs (boyl’d and prepar’d, as
before is taught) ſquaſh, and bruiſe them all into maſh
with a Spoon; and laſtly, pour it all upon the Herbs, ſtirring,
and mingling them ’till they are well and throughly imbib’d; not
forgetting the Sprinklings of Aromaticks, and ſuch Flowers, as
we have already mentioned, if you think fit, and garniſhing the Diſh
with the thin Slices of Horſe-Radiſh, Red Beet, Berberries,
&c.

Note, That the Liquids may be made more, or leſs Acid,
as is moſt agreeable to your Taſte.

Theſe Rules, and Preſcriptions duly Obſerv’d;
you have a Sallet (for a Table of Six or Eight Perſons) Dreſs’d,
and Accommodated ſecundum Artem: For, as the ⁶⁸Proverb
has it, [80]

And now after all we have advanc’d in favour
of the Herbaceous Diet, there ſtill emerges a third Inquiry;
namely, Whether the Uſe of Crude Herbs and Plants are
ſo wholeſom as is pretended?

What Opinion the Prince of Phyſicians had of them, we ſhall
ſee hereafter; as alſo what the Sacred Records of elder Times
ſeem to infer, before there were any Fleſh-Shambles in the
World; together with the Reports of ſuch as are often converſant
among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on Herbs and
Roots, arrive to incredible Age, in conſtant Health and
Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the Air and Climate,
Cuſtom, Conſtitution, &c. ſhould be
inquir’d into; eſpecially, when we compare the Antediluvians
mention’d Gen. 1. 29–the whole Fifth and Ninth
Chapters, ver. 3. confining them to Fruit and wholeſom
Sallets: I deny not that both the Air and Earth might then
be leſs humid and clammy, and conſequently Plants, and Herbs
better fermented, concocted, and leſs Rheumatick, than ſince,
and preſently after; to ſay nothing of the infinite Numbers of
putrid Carcaſſes of Dead [81] Animals, periſhing in the Flood, (of
which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs muſt have
corrupted the Air: Thoſe who live in Marſhes, and Uliginous
Places (like the Hundreds of Eſſex) being more obnoxious
to Fevers, Agues, Pleuriſies, and generally
unhealthful: The Earth alſo then a very Bog, compar’d with what it
likely was before that deſtructive Cataclyſm, when Men
breath’d the pure Paradiſian Air, ſucking in a more æthereal,
nouriſhing, and baulmy Pabulum, ſo foully vitiated now,
thro’ the Intemperance, Luxury, and ſofter Education and Effeminacy
of the Ages ſince.

Cuſtom, and Conſtitution come next to be examin’d,
together with the Qualities, and Vertue of the Food; and I confeſs,
the two firſt, eſpecially that of Conſtitution,
ſeems to me the more likely Cauſe of Health, and conſequently
of Long-life; which induc’d me to conſider of what Quality the uſual
Sallet Furniture did more eminently conſiſt, that ſo
it might become more ſafely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Diſpoſition
of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated
and proportion’d: There’s no doubt, but thoſe whoſe Conſtitutions
are Cold and Moiſt, are naturally affected with Things which are Hot
and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and [82] Dry Complexions, with ſuch as cool and
refrigerate; which perhaps made the Junior Gordian (and others like
him) prefer the frigidæ Menſæ (as of old they
call’d Sallets) which, according to Cornelius Celſus,
is the fitteſt Diet for Obeſe and Corpulent Perſons,
as not ſo Nutritive, and apt to Pamper: And conſequently, that
for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; ſuch Herby Ingredients ſhould
be made choice of, as warm, and cheriſh the Natural Heat, depure the
Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits: And therefore my Lord
⁶⁹Bacon
ſhews what are beſt Raw, what Boil’d, and what Parts of Plants
fitteſt to nouriſh. Galen indeed ſeems to exclude
them all, unleſs well accompanied with their due Correctives, of
which we have taken care: Notwithſtanding yet, that even the moſt
Crude and Herby, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be
Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the moſt vigorous Animals, whoſe
Food is only Graſs. ‘Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially
mingl’d, and dreſs’d a Sallet for them in every field, beſides
what they diſtinguiſh by Smell; nor queſtion [83] I, but Man at
firſt knew what Plants and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his
Natural Sagacity, and not Experience; which ſince by Art, and Trial,
and long Obſervation of their Properties and Effects, they hardly
recover: But in all Events, ſuppoſing with ⁷⁰Cardan,
that Plants nouriſh little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience
tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit thoſe
who uſe them; indu’d as they are with ſuch admirable Properties
as they every day diſcover: For ſome Plants not only nouriſh
laudably, but induce a manifeſt and wholeſom Change; as Onions,
Garlick, Rochet, &c. which are both nutritive and warm;
Lettuce, Purſelan, the Intybs, &c. and
indeed moſt of the Olera, refreſh and cool: And as their
reſpective Juices being converted into the Subſtances of our
Bodies, they become Aliment; ſo in regard of their Change and
Alteration, we may allow them Medicinal; eſpecially the
greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of very few
(not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole Materia Medica)
which may be juſtly call’d Infallible Specifics, [84] and upon whoſe
Performance we may as ſafely depend, as we may on ſuch as
familiarly we uſe for a Crude Herb-Sallet; diſcreetly choſen,
mingl’d, and dreſs’d accordingly: Not but that many of them may be
improv’d, and render’d better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in Oyl,
Vinegar, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not
in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I ſaid, the
Choice, Mixture, Conſtitution, and Seaſon rightly be
underſtood) we ſtand up in Defence and Vindication of our Sallet,
againſt all Attacks and Oppoſers whoever.

We have mentioned Seaſon and with the great Hippocrates,
pronounce them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when thoſe
Parts of Plants us’d in Sallet are yet tender, delicate, and
impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refreſh, and
allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and Bilious, Young and over-Sanguine,
Cold, Pituit, and Melancholy; in a word, for Perſons of all
Ages, Humours, and Conſtitutions whatſoever.

To this of the Annual Seaſons, we add that of Culture
alſo, as of very great Importance: And this is often diſcover’d
in the taſte and conſequently in the Goodneſs of ſuch
Plants and Salleting, as are Rais’d and brought us [85] freſh
out of the Country, compar’d with thoſe which the Avarice of the Gardiner,
or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts them to force and Reſuſcitate
of the moſt deſirable and delicious Plants.

It is certain, ſays a ⁷¹Learned Perſon, that
about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc’d for Fruit and early
Salleting, nothing is more unwholſom: Men in the Country look
ſo much more healthy and freſh; and commonly are longer liv’d
than thoſe who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vaſt and
crowded Cities, inviron’d with rotten Dung, loathſome and common Lay
Stalls; whoſe noiſome Steams, wafted by the Wind, poiſon
and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with thoſe pernicious
Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the Hot Beds for the
raiſing thoſe Præcoces indeed, and forward Plants
and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original,
cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to thoſe who feed upon
them. And the ſame was well obſerv’d by the Editor of our
famous Roger Bacon’s Treatiſe concerning the Cure of Old
Age, and Preſervation of Youth: There being nothing ſo
proper for [86]
Sallet Herbs and other Edule Plants, as the Genial and
Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich’d with well-digeſted Compoſt
(when requiſite) without any Mixture of Garbage, odious Carrion, and
other filthy Ordure, not half conſum’d and ventilated and indeed
reduc’d to the next Diſpoſition of Earth it ſelf, as it
ſhould be; and that in Sweet, ⁷²Riſing, Aery and
moderately Perflatile Grounds; where not only Plants but Men
do laſt, and live much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would
prefer Corn, and other Grain rais’d from Marle, Chalk, Lime,
and other ſweet Soil and Amendments, before that which is produc’d
from the Dunghil only. Beſide, Experience ſhews, that the
Rankneſs of Dung is frequently the Cauſe of Blaſts
and Smuttineſs; as if the Lord of the Univerſe, by
an Act of viſible Providence would check us, to take heed of all
unnatural Sordidneſs and Mixtures. We ſenſibly find this
Difference in Cattle and their Paſture; but moſt powerfully in
Fowl, from ſuch as are nouriſh’d with Corn, ſweet
and dry Food: And as of Vegetable Meats, ſo of Drinks,
’tis obſerv’d, that the ſame Vine, according to the [87] Soil,
produces a Wine twice as heady as in the ſame, and a leſs
forc’d Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to determine
any thing of the Peach ſaid to be Poiſon in Perſia;
becauſe ’tis a Vulgar Error.

Now, becauſe among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and
ſpurious Birth than what is ſo impatiently longed after as Early
Aſparagus, &c. ⁷³Dr. Liſter,
(according to his communicative and obliging Nature) has taught us how to
raiſe ſuch as our Gardiners cover with naſty Litter,
during the Winter; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet Wheat-Straw
upon the Beds, ſuper-ſeminating and over-ſtrowing
them thick with the Powder of bruiſed Oyſter-Shells,
&c. to produce that moſt tender and delicious Sallet. In
the mean while, if nothing will ſatisfie ſave what is rais’d Ex
tempore, and by Miracles of Art ſo long before the time; let them
ſtudy (like the Adepti) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom
I knew; That having ſome Friends of his accidentally come to Dine
with him, and wanting an early Sallet, Before they ſate down to
Table, ſowed Lettuce and ſome other Seeds in a certain
Compoſition of Mould he had prepared; which within the [88] ſpace of
two Hours, being riſen near two Inches high, preſented them with
a delicate and tender Sallet; and this, without making uſe of
any nauſeous or fulſome Mixture; but of Ingredients not
altogether ſo cheap perhaps. Honoratus Faber (no mean Philoſopher)
ſhews us another Method by ſowing the Seeds ſteep’d in Vinegar,
caſting on it a good quantity of Bean-Shell Aſhes,
irrigating them with Spirit of Wine, and keeping the Beds well
cover’d under dry Matts. Such another Proceſs for the raiſing
early Peas and Beans, &c. we have the like ⁷⁴Accounts
of: But were they practicable and certain, I confeſs I ſhould
not be fonder of them, than of ſuch as the honeſt induſtrious
Country-man’s Field, and Good Wife’s Garden ſeaſonably produce;
where they are legitimately born in juſt time, and without forcing
Nature.

But to return again to Health and Long Life, and the Wholeſomneſs
of the Herby-Diet, ⁷⁵John Beverovicius, a Learn’d Phyſician
(out of Peter Moxa, a Spaniard) treating of the extream Age,
which thoſe of America uſually arrive to, aſſerts
in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs: Diphilus of old, as ⁷⁶Athenæus
tells [89]
us, was on the other ſide, againſt all the Tribe of Olera
in general; and Cardan of late (as already noted) no great Friend
to them; Affirming Fleſh-Eaters to be much wiſer and more ſagacious.
But this his ⁷⁷Learned Antagoniſt utterly denies;
Whole Nations, Fleſh-Devourers (ſuch as the fartheſt Northern)
becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the Southern;
and ſuch as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of
deeper Penetration: Witneſs the Chaldæans, Aſſyrians,
Ægyptians, &c. And further argues from the ſhort
Lives of moſt Carnivorous Animals, compared with Graſs
Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the Hart, Camel, and
the longævous Elephant, and other Feeders on Roots and
Vegetables.

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being compoſed of Diſſimilar
Parts, and ſo requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion,
keeping to the ſame Species; of which there is infinitely more
Variety in the Herby Family, than in all Nature beſsides: But
the Danger is in the Generical Difference of Fleſh, Fiſh,
Fruit, &c. with other made Diſhes and exotic Sauces; which
a wanton and expenſive [90] Luxury has introduc’d; debauching the
Stomach, and ſharpening it to devour things of ſuch difficult
Concoction, with thoſe of more eaſie Digeſtion, and of
contrary Substances, more than it can well diſpose of: Otherwiſe
Food of the ſame kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of ⁷⁸Celſus,
Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, &
modus pertineat. They are (ſays he) eaſily eaten and taken
in: But regard ſhould be had to their Digeſtion, Nature,
Quantity and Quality of the Matter. As to that of Diſſimilar
Parts, requiring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other
Animals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all the late Conteſts
about Comparative Anatomy) ſo little Difference in the
Structure, as to the Uſe of thoſe Parts and Veſſels deſtin’d
to ſerve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and other Separations
for Supply of Life, &c. That it does not appear why there
ſhould need any Difference at all of Food; of which the moſt
ſimple has ever been eſteem’d the beſt, and moſt wholſome;
according to that of the ⁷⁹Naturaliſt, Hominis
cibus utiliſſimus ſimplex. And that ſo it is in
other [91]
Animals, we find by their being ſo ſeldom afflicted with Mens Diſtempers,
deriv’d from the Cauſes above-mentioned: And if the many Diſeaſes
of Horſes ſeem to ⁸⁰contradict it, I am apt
to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither’d
Stable Commons, which they muſt eat or ſtarve, however
qualified; being reſtrained from their Natural and Spontaneous
Choice, which Nature and Instinct directs them to: To theſe add the
Cloſeneſs of the Air, ſtanding in an almoſt continu’d
Poſture; beſides the fulſome Drenches, unſeaſonable
Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant Horſe-Quacks and
ſurly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Uſage of their Maſters
in tiring Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats,
Colds, &c. which wear out and deſtroy ſo many of thoſe
uſeful and generous Creatures before the time: Such as have been
better us’d, and ſome, whom their more gentle and good-natur’d
Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful service, diſmiſs’d,
and ſent to Paſture for the reſt of their Lives (as the Grand
Seignior does his Meccha-Camel) have been known to live forty,
[92] fifty,
nay (ſays ⁸¹Ariſtotle,) no fewer than ſixty
five Years. When once Old Par came to change his ſimple,
homely Diet, to that of the Court and Arundel-Houſe, he
quickly ſunk and dropt away: For, as we have ſhew’d, the Stomack
eaſily concocts plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and
difficult Task, to vanquiſh and overcome Meats of ⁸²different
Subſtances: Whence we ſo often ſee temperate and abſtemious
Perſons, of a Collegiate Diet, very healthy; Huſbandsmen and
laborious People, more robuſt, and longer liv’d than others of an
uncertain extravagant Diet.

was Oſellus’s Memorandum in the Poet.

Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain’d to delight and aſſiſt
our Appetite) is unneceſſary, nor any thing more grateful, refreſhing
[93] and
proper for thoſe eſpecially who lead ſedentary and ſtudious
Lives; Men of deep Thought, and ſuch as are otherwiſe diſturb’d
with Secular Cares and Buſineſſes, which hinders the
Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilſt thoſe who have
their Minds free, uſe much Exerciſe, and are more active, create
themſelves a natural Appetite, which needs little or no Variety to
quicken and content it.

And here might we atteſt the Patriarchal World, nay, and many
Perſons ſince; who living very temperately came not much ſhort
of the Poſt-Diluvians themſelves, counting from Abraham
to this Day; and ſome exceeding them, who liv’d in pure Air, a conſtant,
tho’ courſe and ſimple Diet; wholſome and uncompounded
Drink; that never taſted Brandy or Exotic Spirits; but
us’d moderate Exerciſe, and obſerv’d good Hours: For ſuch a
one a curious Miſſionary tells us of in Perſia; who had
attain’d the Age of four hundred Years, (a full Century
beyond the famous Johannes de Temporibus) and was living Anno
1636, and ſo may be ſtill for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.

Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining ⁸⁴Herbs and Fruit
for the Food of Men, ſpeaks not a [94] Word concerning Fleſh for two
thouſand Years. And when after, by the Moſaic Conſtitution,
there were Diſtinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanneſs
of Animals; Plants, of what kind ſoever, were left free
and indifferent for every one to chooſe what beſt he lik’d. And
what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man’s
Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormouſly wicked, that any
Creature ſhould be put to Death and Pain for him who had ſuch
infinite ſtore of the moſt delicious and nouriſhing Fruit
to delight, and the Tree of Life to ſuſtain him? Doubtleſs
there was no need of it. Infants ſought the Mother’s Nipple as ſoon
as born; and when grown, and able to feed themſelves, run naturally
to Fruit, and ſtill will chooſe to eat it rather than Fleſh
and certainly might ſo perſiſt to do, did not Cuſtom
prevail, even againſt the very Dictates of Nature: Nor, queſtion
I, but that what the Heathen ⁸⁵Poets recount of
the Happineſs of the Golden Age, ſprung from ſome
Tradition they had received of the Paradiſian Fare, their
innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it ſuffice,
that Adam, and his yet innocent Spouſe, fed on Vegetables and
other [95]
Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapſe; which, by the way, many
Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out ſo ſoon as thoſe
imagine who ſcarcely grant them a ſingle Day; nay, nor half a
one, for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection; whilſt
the ſending him into the Garden; Inſtructions how he ſhould
keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition concerning the Sacramental
Trees; the Impoſition of ⁸⁶Names, ſo appoſite
to the Nature of ſuch an Infinity of Living Creatures (requiring deep
Inſpection) the Formation of Eve, a meet Companion to relieve
his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and Succeſs
of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reaſonably think made but one Aſſault:
And that they ſhould ſo quickly forget the Injunction of their
Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Faſt, and all other their
Obligations in ſo few Moments. I ſay, all theſe Particulars
conſider’d; Can it be ſuppoſed they were ſo ſoon
tranſacted as thoſe do fancy, who take their Meaſure from
the Summary Moſes gives us, who did not write to gratifie Mens
Curioſity, but to tranſmit what was neceſſary and
ſufficient for us to know.

[96] This
then premis’d (as I ſee no Reaſon why it ſhould not) and
that during all this Space they liv’d on Fruits and Sallets;
’tis little probable, that after their Tranſgreſſion, and
that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature (and were ſentenc’d
and exil’d to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a curſed and ungrateful
Soil) the offended God ſhould regale them with Pampering Fleſh,
or ſo much as ſuffer them to ſlay the more innocent Animal:
Or, that if at any time they had Permiſſion, it was for any
thing ſave Skins to cloath them, or in way of Adoration, or Holocauſt
for Expiation, of which nothing of the Fleſh was to be eaten.
Nor did the Brutes themſelves ſubſiſt by Prey (tho’
pleas’d perhaps with Hunting, without deſtroying their Fellow
Creatures) as may be preſum’d from their long Secluſion of the
moſt Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for two thouſand Years, the Univerſal Food was Herbs
and Plants; which abundantly recompens’d the Want of Fleſh
and other luxurious Meats, which ſhortened their Lives ſo many
hundred Years; the ⁸⁷ μακρο-βιοτη-α
of the Patriarchs, which was an
Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new [97] Conceſſion) beginning
to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Compariſon.

On the other ſide, examine we the preſent Uſages of ſeveral
other Heathen Nations; particularly (beſsides the Ægyptian
Prieſts of old) the Indian Bramins, Relicts of the ancient Gymnoſophists
to this Day, obſerving the Inſtitutions of their Founder. Fleſh,
we know was baniſh’d the Platonic Tables, as well as from thoſe
of Pythagoras; (See ⁸⁸Porphyry and their
Diſciples) tho’ on different Accounts. Among others of the Philoſophers,
from Xenocrates, Polemon, &c. we hear of many. The like
we find in ⁸⁹Clement Alexand. ⁹⁰Euſebius
names more. Zeno, Archinomus, Phraartes, Chiron,
and others, whom Lærtius reckons up. In ſhort, ſo
very many, eſpecially of the Chriſtian Profeſſion,
that ſome, even of the ancient ⁹¹Fathers themſelves,
have almost thought that the Permiſſion of eating Fleſh to
Noah and his Sons, was granted them no otherwiſe than Repudiation
of Wives was to the Jews, namely, for the Hardneſs of their
Hearts, and to ſatisfie a murmuring Generation that a little
after loathed Manna it ſelf, and Bread from Heaven.
[98] So
difficult a thing it is to ſubdue an unruly Appetite; which notwithſtanding
⁹²Seneca
thinks not ſo hard a Task; where ſpeaking of the Philoſopher
Sextius, and Socion’s (abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance)
he celebrates the Advantages of the Herby and Sallet Diet,
as Phyſical, and Natural Advancers of Health and other
Bleſſings; whilſt Abſtinence from Fleſh deprives
Men of nothing but what Lions, Vultures, Beaſts and
birds of Prey, blood and gorge themſelves withal, The whole Epiſtle
deſerves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and
other Subjects; and how from many troubleſome and ſlaviſh
Impertinencies, grown into Habit and Cuſtom (old as he was) he had
Emancipated and freed himſelf: Be this apply’d to our preſent
exceſſive Drinkers of Foreign and Exotic Liquors. And now

I am ſufficiently ſenſible how far, and to how little purpoſe
I am gone on this Topic: The Ply is long ſince taken, and our
raw Sallet deckt in its beſt Trim, is never like to invite Men
who once have taſted Fleſh to quit and abdicate a Cuſtom
which has now ſo long obtain’d. Nor truly do I think Conſcience
at all concern’d in the Matter, upon any Account of [99] Distinction of Pure and
Impure; tho’ ſeriouſly conſider’d (as Sextius
held) rationi magis congrua, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of
ſo many harmleſs Creatures; ſome of which we put to mercileſs
and needleſs Torment, to accommodat them for exquiſite and
uncommon Epicuriſm. There lies elſe no poſitive
Prohibition; Diſcrimination of Meats being ⁹³Condemn’d
as the Doctrine of Devils: Nor do Meats commend us to God.
One eats quid vult (of every thing:) another Olera, and of
Sallets only: But this is not my Buſineſs, further than
to ſhew how poſſible it is by ſo many Inſtances
and Examples, to live on wholſome Vegetables, both long and happily:
For ſo

As to the other part of the Controverſie, which concerns us, αιματοφαγοι,
and Occidental Blood-Eaters; ſome
Grave and Learn’d Men of late ſeem to ſcruple the preſent Uſage,
whilſt they ſee the Prohibition appearing, and to carry ſuch
a Face of Antiquity, ⁹⁵Scripture, ⁹⁶Councils,
⁹⁷Canons,
⁹⁸Fathers;
Imperial Conſtitutions, and Univerſal Practice,
unleſs it be [101]
among us of theſe Tracts of Europe, whither, with other
Barbarities, that of eating the Blood and Animal Life of
Creatures firſt was brought; and by our Mixtures with the Goths,
Vandals, and other Spawn of Pagan Scythians; grown a Cuſtom,
and ſince which I am perſuaded more Blood has been ſhed
between Chriſtians than there ever was before the Water of the
Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it only to our
eating Blood; but ſometimes wonder how it hap’ned that ſo
ſtrict, ſo ſolemn and famous a Sanction not upon a
Ceremonial Account; but (as ſome affirm) a Moral and Perpetual
from Noah, to whom the Conceſſion of eating Fleſh
was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to this Day once revok’d)
and whilſt there alſo ſeems to lie fairer Proofs than for
moſt other Controverſies agitated among Chriſtians,
ſhould be ſo generally forgotten, and give place to ſo many
other impertinent Diſputes and Cavels about other ſuperſtitious
Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.

As to the Reaſon of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty
excepted, (and that by Galen, and other experienc’d Phyſicians,
the eating Blood is condemn’d as unwholſome, cauſing Indigeſtion
and Obſtructions) if a poſitive [102] Command of Almighty God
were not enough, it ſeems ſufficiently intimated; becauſe
Blood was the Vehicle of the Life and Animal Soul
of the Creature: For what other myſterious Cauſe, as haply its
being always dedicated to Expiatory Sacrifices, &c. it is not
for us to enquire. ‘Tis ſaid, that Juſtin Martyr being
asked, why the Chriſtians of his time were permitted the
eating Fleſh and not the Blood? readily anſwer’d,
That God might diſtinguiſh them from Beaſts, which eat them
both together. ‘Tis likewiſe urg’d, that by the Apoſtolical
Synod (when the reſt of the Jewiſh Ceremonies and
Types were aboliſh’d) this Prohibition was mention’d as a thing ⁹⁹neceſſary,
and rank’d with Idolatry, which was not to be local or temporary;
but univerſally injoyn’d to converted Strangers and Proſelytes,
as well as Jews: Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to obſerve
it, concern them alone, after ſo many Ages as it was and ſtill
is in continual Uſe; and thoſe who tranſgreſs’d,
ſo ſeverely puniſh’d, as by an Imperial Law to be
ſcourg’d to Blood and Bone: Indeed, ſo terrible was the
Interdiction, that Idolatry excepted (which was alſo Moral and
perpetual) nothing in Scripture [103] ſeems to be more expreſs. In the
mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does not, they ſay,
extend to that ακρβεια
of thoſe few diluted Drops of Extravaſated
Blood, which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Fleſh
(which were indeed to ſtrain at a Gnat) but to thoſe who
devour the Venal and Arterial Blood ſeparately, and in
Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and Apician
Tables.

But this, and all the reſt will, I fear, ſeem but Oleribus
verba facere, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of
preaching down Hogs-Puddings, and uſurp the Chair of Rabby-Buſy:
And therefore what is advanc’d in Countenance of the Antediluvian
Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and ſuch as Curcellæus,
who has borrow’d of all the Ancient Fathers, from Tertullian, Hierom,
S. Chryſoſtom, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, Lyra,
Toſtatus, Dionyſius Carthuſianus, Pererius,
amongſt the Pontificians; of Peter Martyr, Zanchy,
Aretius, Jac. Capellus, Hiddiger, Cocceius, Bochartus,
&c. amongſt the Proteſtants; and inſtar
omnium, by Salmaſius, Grotius, Voſſius,
Blundel: In a Word, by the Learn’d of both Perſuaſions,
favourable enough to theſe Opinions, Cajetan and Calvin
only excepted, [104]
who hold, that as to Abſtinence from Fleſh, there
was no poſitive Command or Impoſition concerning it; but that
the Uſe of Herbs and Fruit was recommended rather for
Temperance ſake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which ſcore
I am inclin’d to believe that the ancient θεραωενται,
and other devout and contemplative
Sects, diſtinguiſh’d themſelves; whoſe Courſe of
Life we have at large deſcrib’d in ¹⁰⁰Philo
(who liv’d and taught much in Gardens) with others of the Abſtemious
Chriſtians; among whom, Clemens brings in St. Mark
the Evangeliſt himſelf, James our Lord’s Brother.
St. John, &c. and with ſeveral of the devout Sex, the
famous Diaconeſſe Olympias, mention’d by Palladius
(not to name the reſt) who abſtaining from Fleſh, betook
themſelves to Herbs and Sallets upon the Account of
Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which the
incomparable Grotius declares ingenuouſly his Opinion to be
far from cenſuring, not only thoſe who forbear the eating Fleſh
and Blood, Experimenti Cauſa, and for Diſcipline ſake;
but ſuch as forbear ex Opinione, and (becauſe it has been
the ancient Cuſtom) provided they blam’d none who freely [105] us’d their
Liberty; and I think he’s in the right.

But leaving this Controverſie (ne nimium extra oleas) it has
often been objected, that Fruit, and Plants, and all other
things, may ſince the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have
univerſally become Effœte, impair’d and diverted of thoſe
Nutritious and tranſcendent Vertues they were at firſt endow’d
withal: But as this is begging the Queſtion, and to which we have
already ſpoken; ſo all are not agreed that there is any, the leaſt
¹⁰¹Decay
in Nature, where equal Induſtry and Skill’s apply’d. ‘Tis true
indeed, that the Ordo Foliatorum, Feuillantines (a late Order of Aſcetic
Nuns) amongſt other Mortifications, made Trial upon the Leaves
of Plants alone, to which they would needs confine themſelves;
but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it
would be enquir’d whether they had not firſt, and from their very
Childhood, been fed and brought up with Fleſh, and better Suſtenance
till they enter’d the Cloyſter; and what the Vegetables and
the Preparation of them were allow’d by their Inſtitution? Wherefore
this is nothing to our Modern Uſe [106] of Sallets, or its Diſparagement.
In the mean time, that we ſtill think it not only poſſible,
but likely, and with no great Art or Charge (taking Roots and Fruit
into the Basket) ſubſtantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health
and Vigour: For to this, and leſs than this, we have the
Suffrage of the great ¹⁰²Hippocrates himſelf;
who thinks, ab initio etiam hominum (as well as other Animals) tali
victu uſum eſſe, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an
inconſiderable Speculation, That ſince all Fleſh is Graſs
(not in a Figurative, but Natural and Real Senſe)
Man himſelf, who lives on Fleſh, and I think upon
no Earthly Animal whatſoever, but ſuch as feed on Graſs, is
nouriſh’d with them ſtill; and ſo becoming an Incarnate
Herb, and Innocent Canibal, may truly be ſaid to devour
himſelf.

We have ſaid nothing of the Lotophagi, and ſuch as (like
St. John the Baptiſt, and other religious Aſcetics)
were Feeders on the Summities and Tops of Plants: But as divers of
thoſe, and others we have mention’d, were much in times of Streights,
Perſecutions, and other Circumſtances, which did not in the leaſt
make it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other Humane Offices,
by enſnaring Obligations [107] and vows (never to be uſeful to the
Publick, in whatever Exigency) ſo I cannot but take Notice of what a
Learned Critic ſpeaking of Mens neglecting plain and Eſſential
Duties, under Colour of exerciſing themſelves in a more ſublime
Courſe of Piety, and being Righteous above what is commanded (as thoſe
who ſeclude themſelves in Monaſteries) that they manifeſtly
diſcover exceſſive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour,
Impatience of Injuries; to which add, Melancholy Plots and Machinations;
and that he must be either ſtupid, or infected with the ſame
Vice himſelf, who admires this εθελοπεριοσοθρησκεια,
or thinks they were for
that Cauſe the more pleaſing to God. This being ſo, what
may we then think of ſuch Armies of Hermits, Monks and
Friers, who pretending to juſtifie a miſtaken Zeal and
meritorious Abſtinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Diſtinction
of Meats (which God without Diſtinction has made the moderate Uſe
of common and ¹⁰³indifferent amongſt Chriſtians)
but by other ſordid Uſages, and unneceſſary Hardſhips,
wilfully prejudice their Health and Conſtitution? and through a
ſingular manner of living, dark and Saturnine; whilſt
[108] they
would ſeem to abdicate and forſake the World (in Imitation, as
they pretend, of the Ancient Eremites) take care to ſettle,
and build their warm and ſtately Neſts in the moſt Populous
Cities, and Places of Reſort; ambitious doubtleſs of the Peoples
Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying
the Deſarts, where there is indeed no uſe of them; and
flocking to the Towns and Cities where there is leſs,
indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour Valentinian
baniſhed them the Cities, and Conſtantine Copronymus
finding them ſeditious, oblig’d them to marry, to leave their Cells,
and live as did others. For of theſe, ſome there are who ſeldom
ſpeak, and therefore edifie none; ſleep little, and lie hard,
are clad naſtily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholſom)
and therefore benefit none; Not becauſe they might not, both for
their own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but becauſe they
will not; Cuſtom, and a prodigious ¹⁰⁴Sloth
accompanying it; which renders it ſo far from Penance, and the
Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or ſpend
their [109]
Time otherwiſe. This, as I have often conſider’d, ſo was I
glad to find it juſtly perſtring’d, and taken notice of by a ¹⁰⁵Learned
Perſon, amongſt others of his uſeful Remarks abroad.

‘Theſe, ſays he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of
Life, plainly ſhew it to proceed more from a chagrin and moroſe
Humour, than from any true and ſerious Principle of ſound
Religion; which teaches Men to be uſeful in their Generations, ſociable
and communicative, unaffected, and by no means ſingular and fantaſtic
in Garb and Habit, as are theſe (forſooth) Fathers (as they
affect to be call’d) ſpending their Days in idle and fruitleſs
Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward
of thoſe Ancient, and truly pious Solitaries, who, God knows,
were driven from their Countries and Repoſe, by the Incurſions
of barbarous Nations (whilſt theſe have no ſuch Cauſe)
and compell’d to Auſterities, not of their own chuſing and
making, but the publick Calamity; and to labour with their Hands
for their own, and others neceſſary Support, as well as with
with their Prayers and holy Lives, Examples [110] to all the World: And ſome
of theſe indeed (beſsides the Solitaries of the Thebaid,
who wrought for abundance of poor Chriſtians, ſick, and in
Captivity) I might bring in, as ſuch who deſerv’d to have their
Names preſerv’d; not for their rigorous Fare, and uncouth Diſguiſes;
but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, conſiſted
in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation.

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the Hortulan Proviſion
has been celebrated for, beſsides its Antiquity, Health and Longævity
of the Antediluvians; that Temperance, Frugality, Leiſure, Eaſe,
and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no
leſs attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent Botaniſt
¹⁰⁶Mr.
Ray.

‘The Uſe of Plants (ſays he) is all our Life long of that univerſal
Importance and Concern, [111] that we can neither live nor ſubſiſt
in any Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be ſaid to live indeed
at all without them: whatſoever Food is neceſſary to ſuſtain
us, whatſoever contributes to delight and refreſh us, are ſupply’d
and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant ſtore: and ah,
how much more innocent, ſweet and healthful, is a Table cover’d with
theſe, than with all the reeking Fleſh of butcher’d and ſlaughter’d
Animals: Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a Carnivorous
Creature; nor is he arm’d at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag’d and
pointed Teeth and crooked Claws, ſharp’ned to rend and tear: But with
gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and
eat them: Nor do we ſo much as read the Uſe of Fleſh
for Food, was at all permitted him, till after the Univerſal Deluge,
&c.

To this might we add that tranſporting Conſideration, becoming
both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wiſe and
glorious Author of Nature, who has given to Plants ſuch aſtoniſhing
Properties; ſuch fiery Heat in ſome to warm and cheriſh,
ſuch Coolneſs in others to temper and refreſh, ſuch
pinguid Juice to nouriſh and feed the Body, ſuch quickening Acids
[112] to
compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to court the Obedience of the
Palate, ſuch Vigour to renew and ſupport our natural Strength,
ſuch raviſhing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us:
In ſhort, ſuch ſpirituous and active Force to animate and
revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had almoſt
ſaid Heavenly Capacity too. What ſhall we add more? Our Gardens
preſent us with them all; and whilſt the Shambles are
cover’d with Gore and Stench, our Sallets ſcape the Insults of
the Summer Fly, purifies and warms the Blood againſt Winter
Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former
Ages could ſhew.

Survey we their Bills of Fare, and Numbers of Courſes ſerv’d
up by Athenæus, dreſt with all the Garniſh of Nicander
and other Grecian Wits: What has the Roman Grand Sallet
worth the naming? Parat Convivium, The Gueſts are nam’d
indeed, and we are told,

In quibus eſt Luctuca ſedens, & tonſile porrum, Nee
deeſt ructatrix Mentha, nec herba ſalax, &c.

[113]

A Goodly Sallet!

Lettuce, Leeks, Mint, Rocket, Colewort-Tops,
with Oyl and Eggs, and ſuch an Hotch-Pot
following (as the Cook in Plautus would deſervedly laugh at).
But how infinitely out-done in this Age of ours, by the Variety of ſo
many rare Edules unknown to the Ancients, that there’s no room for
the Compariſon. And, for Magnificence, let the Sallet dreſt
by the Lady for an Entertainment made by Jacobus Catſius (deſcrib’d
by the Poet ¹⁰⁸Barlæus) ſhew; not at
all yet out-doing what we every Day almoſt find at our Lord
Mayor’s Table, and other great Perſons, Lovers of the Gardens;
that ſort of elegant Cookery being capable of ſuch wonderful
Variety, tho’ not altogether wanting of old, if that be true which is
related to us of ¹⁰⁹Nicomedes a certain King of
Bithynia, whoſe Cook made him a Pilchard (a Fiſh he
exceedingly long’d for) of a well diſſembl’d Turnip, carv’d in
its Shape, and dreſt with Oyl, Salt, and Pepper,
that ſo deceiv’d, and yet pleaſed the Prince, that he commended
it for the beſt Fiſh he had ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed
what every induſtrious Gardiner may innocently enjoy, as well
as the greateſt Potentate on Earth.

[114]

So the Sweet ¹¹⁰Poet, whom I can never part with
for his Love to this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.

Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and
bountiful Author of Nature has ſtor’d the whole Terreſtrial
World, more with Plants and Vegetables than with any other
Proviſion whatſoever; and the Variety not only equal, but by far
exceeding the Pleaſure and Delight of Taſte (above all the Art
of the Kitchen, than ever ¹¹¹Apicius [115] knew)
ſeems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her living Inhabitants
(none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and moſt uſeful, to
the ſame Hoſpitable and Common-Board, which firſt
ſhe furniſh’d with Plants and Fruit, as to their
natural and genuine Paſture; nay, and of the moſt wild, and
ſavage too ab origine: As in Paradiſe, where, as
the Evangelical ¹¹²Prophet adumbrating the
future Glory of the Catholick Church, (of which that happy Garden
was the Antitype) the Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious
Lion, ſhould eat Graſs and Herbs together with the Ox. But
after all, latet anguis in herba, there’s a Snake in the Graſs;
Luxury, and Exceſs in our moſt innocent Fruitions. There was a
time indeed when the Garden furniſh’d Entertainments for the moſt
Renown’d Heroes, virtuous and excellent Perſons; till the Blood-thirſty
and Ambitious, over-running the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl’d
the World, to tranſplant its Luxury to its new Miſtriſs, Rome.
Thoſe whom heretofore ¹¹³two Acres of Land would
have ſatisfied, and [116] plentifully maintain’d; had afterwards
their very Kitchens almoſt as large as their firſt Territories:
Nor was that enough: Entire ¹¹⁴Foreſts and
Parks, Warrens and Fiſh-Ponds, and ample Lakes
to furniſh their Tables, ſo as Men could not live by one another
without Oppreſſion: Nay, and to ſhew how the beſt, and
moſt innocent things may be perverted; they chang’d thoſe frugal
and inemptas Dapes of their Anceſtors, to that Height and
Profuſion; that we read of ¹¹⁵Edicts and Sumptuary
Laws, enacted to reſtrain even the Pride and Exceſs of Sallets.
But ſo it was not when the Peaſe-Field ſpread a
Table for the Conquerors of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated
Vomere laureato, & triumphali aratore: The greateſt
Princes took the Spade and the Plough-Staff in the ſame
Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Nobleſt ¹¹⁶Families
thought it no Diſhonour, to derive their Names from Plants and
Sallet-Herbs; They arriv’d, I ſay to that Pitch of ingroſſing
all that was but green, and could be vary’d by [117] the Cook (Heu quam prodiga
ventris!) that, as Pliny tells us (non ſine pudore,
not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a Thiſtle
to dreſs for his Supper; or what his hungry ¹¹⁷Aſs
would not touch, for fear of pricking his Lips.

Verily the Luxury of the Eaſt ruin’d the greateſt Monarchies;
firſt, the Perſian, then the Grecian, and
afterwards Rome her ſelf: By what Steps, ſee elegantly
describ’d in Old ¹¹⁸Gratius the Faliſcian,
deploring his own Age compar’d with the former:

But as theſe were the Senſual and Voluptuous, who abus’d their
Plenty, ſpent their Fortunes and ſhortned their Lives by their
Debauches; ſo never did they taſte the Delicaces, and true
Satisfaction of a ſober Repaſt, and the infinite Conveniences of
what a well-ſtor’d Garden affords; ſo elegantly deſcrib’d
by the ¹¹⁹Naturaliſt, as coſting
neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, Res
expedita & parata ſemper: All was ſo near at hand,
readily dreſt, and of ſo eaſie Digeſtion; as neither
to offend the Brain, or dull the Senſes; and in the greateſt
Dearth of Corn, a little Bread ſuffic’d. In all Events,

[119]

They could then make an honeſt Meal, and dine upon a Sallet
without ſo much as a Grain, of Exotic Spice; And the Potagere
was in ſuch Reputation, that ſhe who neglected her Kitchen-Garden
(for that was ſtill the Good-Woman’s Province) was never reputed a
tolerable Huſ-wife: Si veſpertinus ſubitò te
oppreſſerit hoſpes, ſhe was never ſurpriz’d,
had all (as we ſaid) at hand, and could in a Trice ſet forth an
handſome Sallet: And if this was Happineſs, Convictus
facilis ſine arte menſa (as the Poet reckons) it was
here in Perfection. In a Word, ſo univerſal was the Sallet,
that the ¹²⁰Un-bloody Shambles (as Pliny
calls them) yielded the ¹²¹Roman State a
more conſiderable Cuſtom (when there was little more than honeſt
Cabbage and Worts) than almoſt any thing beſsides
brought to Market.

They ſpent not then ſo much precious time as afterwards they
did, gorging themſelves with Fleſh and Fiſh,
ſo as hardly able to riſe, without reeking and reeling from
Table.

[120]

Time was before Men in thoſe golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk
and lively.

And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their
Sleep molli ſub arbore, ſound, ſweet, and kindly:
That excellent Emperour Tacitus being us’d to ſay of Lettuce,
that he did ſomnum ſe mercari when [121] he eat of them, and call’d it
a ſumptuous Feaſt, with a Sallet and a ſingle Pullet,
which was uſually all the Fleſh-Meat that ſober Prince eat
of; whilſt Maximinus (a profeſs’d Enemy to Sallet)
is reported to have ſcarce been ſatisfied, with ſixty
Pounds of Fleſh, and Drink proportionable.

There was then alſo leſs expenſive Grandure, but far more
true State; when Conſuls, great Stateſmen (and ſuch
as atchiev’d the most renown’d Actions) ſup’d in their Gardens;
not under coſtly, gilded, and inlaid Roofs, but the ſpreading Platan;
and drank of the Chryſtal Brook, and by Temperance, and healthy
Frugality, maintain’d the Glory of Sallets, Ah, quanta
innocentiore victu! with what Content and Satisfaction! Nor, as we
ſaid, wanted there Variety; for ſo in the moſt bliſsful
Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the firſt Empreſs
of the World Regal’s her Celeſtial Gueſt:

Then for the Board.

Thus, the Hortulan Proviſion of the ¹²⁴Golden
Age fitted all Places, Times and Perſons;
and when Man is reſtor’d to that State again, it will be as it was in
the Beginning.

But now after all (and for Cloſe of all) Let none yet imagine, that
whilſt we juſtifie our preſent Subject through all the Topics
of Panegyric, we would in Favour of the Sallet, dreſt with
all its Pomp and Advantage turn Mankind to Graſs again; which
were ungratefully to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his [123] Health and
Comfort: But by theſe Noble Inſtances and Examples, to reproach
the Luxury of the preſent Age; and by ſhewing the
infinite Bleſſing and Effects of Temperance, and the Vertues
accompanying it; with how little Nature, and a ¹²⁵Civil
Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and within a little
Compaſs, reſerving the reſt, to the nobler Parts of Life.
And thus of old,

He that was poſſeſs’d of a little Spot of Ground, and
well-cultivated Garden, with other moderate Circumſtances, had
¹²⁶Hæredium.
All that a modeſt Man could well deſire. Then,

O Fortunatos nimium bona ſi ſua norint Horticulos!

FINIS

[125]

APPENDIX

T ho’ it
was far from our firſt Intention to charge this ſmall Volume and
Diſcourſe concerning Crude Sallets, with any of the
following Receipts: Yet having ſince received them from an
Experienc’d Houſewife; and that they may poſſibly be uſeful
to correct, preſerve and improve our Acetaria, we have allow’d
them Place as an Appendant Variety upon Occaſion: Nor account
we it the leaſt Diſhonour to our former Treatiſe, that we
kindly entertain’d them; ſince (beſides divers Learned Phyſicians,
and ſuch as have ex profeſſo written de Re
Cibaria) we have the Examples of many other ¹²⁸Noble
and Illuſtrious Perſons both among the Ancient and
Modern.

1. Artichoak. Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin
Slices or Quarters; then fry them in freſh Butter with ſome Parſley,
till it is criſp, and the Slices tender; and ſo diſh them
with other freſh melted Butter.

[126]

How a Poiverade is made, and the Bottoms preſerv’d all the
Winter, See Acetaria. p. 5, 6.

Aſhen-keys. See Pickle.

Aſparagus. See Pickle.

Beets.		See Pickle.
Broom.
Buds.
Capers.

Carrot. See Pudding.

Champignon. See Mushroom.

2. Cheſſnut. Roaſted under the Embers, or dry fryed,
till they ſhell, and quit their Husks, may be ſlit; the Juice of
Orange ſqueezed on a Lump of hard Sugar diſſolv’d; to which
add ſome Claret Wine.

Collyflower.		See Pickle.
Cucumber.
Elder flowers.
Flowers.
Gilly-flowers.

Herbs. See Pudding and Tart.

Limon. See Pickle.

3. Muſhroom. Chuſe the ſmall, firm and white Buttons,
growing upon ſweet Paſture [127] Grounds, neither under, or
about any Trees: ſtrip off the upper Skin, and pare away all the
black ſpungy Bottom part; then ſlice them in quarters, and caſt
them in Water a while to cleanſe: Then Boil them in freſh Water,
and a little ſweet Butter; (ſome boil them a quarter of an hour
firſt) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, preſſing
out the Water, and whilſt hot, add the Butter; and then boiling a
full Hour (to exhauſt the Malignity) ſhift them in another clean
Water, with Butter, as before till they become ſufficiently tender.
Then being taken out, pour upon them as much ſtrong Mutton (or other)
Broth as will cover them, with ſix Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve
Cloves, as many Pepper-Corns, four ſmall young Onions, half an
Handful of Perſly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an
Anchovy, Oyſters raw, or pickl’d; a little Salt, ſweet
Butter; and ſo let them ſtew. See Acetar. p. 26.

Another.

Prepared, and cleans’d as above, and caſt into Fountain-Water, to
preſerve them from growing black; Boil them in freſh Water and
Salt; and whilſt on the Fire, caſt in the Muſhrooms, letting
them boil till they become tender: Then ſtew them leiſurely
between two Diſhes (the Water being drained from them) in a third
Part of White-Wine [128]
and Butter, a ſmall Bundle of ſweet Herbs at diſcretion.
To theſe add Broth as before, with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg,
Anchovies (one is ſufficient) Oysters, &c. a
ſmall Onion, with the green Stem chopt ſmall; and laſtly,
ſome Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Diſh gently with a Clove of
Garlick, or ſome Rocombo Seeds in its ſtead. Some beat
the Yolk of a freſh Egg with Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper.

In France ſome (more compendiouſly being peel’d and
prepared) caſt them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs,
Spices, and an Onion they ſtew them in their own Juice, without any
other Water or Liquor at all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion,
thicken it with a little Butter, and ſo eat them.

In Poiverade.

The large Muſhrooms well cleanſed, &c. being cut
into quarters and ſtrewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil’d on the
Grid-iron, and eaten with freſh Butter.

In Powder.

Being freſh gathered, cleans’d, &c. and cut in Pieces,
ſtew them in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a
Cloth: Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, ſet them into the
[129] Oven
after the Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reſerve
them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you pleaſe. For the reſt,
ſee Pickle.

4. Muſtard. Procure the beſt and weightieſt Seed: caſt
it into Water two or three times, till no more of the Husk ariſe:
Then taking out the ſound (which will ſink to the Bottom)
rub it very dry in warm courſe Cloths, ſhewing it alſo a
little to the Fire in a Diſh or Pan. Then ſtamp it as ſmall
as to paſs through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then ſlice ſome
Horſe-Radiſh and lay it to ſoak in ſtrong Vinegar,
with a ſmall Lump of hard Sugar (which ſome leave out)
to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radiſh, and
ſo pot it all in a Glaz’d Mug, with an Onion, and keep it well ſtop’d
with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is the more cleanly: But this Receit
is improv’d, if inſtead of Vinegar, Water only, or the Broth of
powder’d Beef be made uſe of. And to ſome of this Muſtard
adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, you have an
excellent Sauce to any ſort of Fleſh or Fiſh.

Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to
keep freſh a competent while. What part of it does not paſs the
Sarſe, may be beaten again; and you may reſerve the [130] Flower
in a well cloſed Glaſs, and make freſh Muſtard when
you pleaſe. See Acetaria, p. 38, 67.

Naſturtium. Vide Pickle.

Orange. See Limon in Pickle.

5. Parſnip. Take the large Roots, boil them, and ſtrip the
Skin: Then ſlit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and
fry them in freſh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other
ſweet Butter melted. Some ſtrow Sugar and Cinamon upon them.
Thus you may accomodate other Roots.

There is made a Maſh or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very
tender with a little freſh Cream; and being heated again, put to it
ſome Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; diſh it upon
Sippets; ſometimes a few Corinths are added.

Peny-royal. See Pudding.

Pickles.

6. Pickl’d

Artichoaks. See Acetaria, p. 5.

7. Aſhen-keys. Gather them young, and boil them in three or four
Waters to extract the Bitterneſs; and when they feel tender, prepare
a Syrup [131]
of ſharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil
them on a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to
be potted ſo ſoon as cold.

8. Aſparagus. Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine
Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and ſo let them remain for
ſix Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and
ſcum it carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when
’tis cold, pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year.

9. Beans. Take ſuch as are freſh, young, and approaching
their full Growth. Put them into a ſtrong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar
and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very cloſe, and ſo will
they be preſerved twelve Months: But a Month before you uſe
them, take out what Quantity you think ſufficient for your ſpending
a quarter of a Year (for ſo long the ſecond Pickle will keep
them ſound) and boil them in a Skillet of freſh Water, till they
begin to look green, as they ſoon will do. Then placing them one by
one, (to drain upon a clean courſe Napkin) range them Row by Row in a
Jarr, and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice you pleaſe;
ſome Weight being laid upon [132] them to keep them under the Pickle.
Thus you may preſerve French-Beans, Harico’s, &c. the
whole Year about.

10. Broom-Buds and Pods. Make a ſtrong Pickle, as above;
ſtir it very well, till the Salt be quite diſſolved,
clearing off the Dregs and Scum. The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and
having rubbed the Buds dry pot them up in a Pickle-Glaſs, which
ſhould be frequently ſhaken, till they ſink under it, and
keep it well ſtopt and covered.

Thus may you-pickle any other Buds. Or as follows:

11. Of Elder. Take the largeſt Buds, and boil them
in a Skillet with Salt and Water, ſufficient only to ſcald them;
and ſo (being taken off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green;
and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to
cleanſe it.

12. Collyflowers. Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with ſome
of the Stalk, and worſt of the Flower, boil it in a part of the
Liquor till pretty ſtrong: Then being taken off, ſtrain it; and
when ſettled, clear it from the Bottom. Then with Dill, Groſs
Pepper, a pretty Quantity of Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will
make it [133]
ſharp, and pour all upon the Collyflower; and ſo as to
keep them from touching one another; which is prevented by putting Paper
cloſe to them.

Cornelians are pickled like Olives.

13. Cowſlips. Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow
about one Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which
boil to a Syrup, and cover it ſcalding-hot. Thus you may pickle
Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, and other Flowers, which being eaten alone,
make a very agreeable Salletine.

14. Cucumbers. Take the Gorkems, or ſmaller Cucumbers;
put them into Rape-Vinegar, and boyl, and cover them ſo cloſe,
as none of the Vapour may iſſue forth; and alſo let them
ſtand till the next day: Then boil them in freſh White-Wine
Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, white Pepper, and a little Salt,
(according to diſcretion) ſtraining the former Liquor from the
Cucumbers; and ſo place them in a Jarr, or wide mouthed Glaſs,
laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and covering all with
the freſh ſcalding-hot Pickle, keep all cloſe, and repeat
it daily, till you find them ſufficiently green.

In the ſame ſort Cucumbers of the largeſt ſize,
being peel’d and cut into thin Slices, are very delicate.

[134]
Another.

Wiping them clean, put them in a very ſtrong Brine of Water and
Salt, to ſoak two or three Hours or longer, if you ſee Cause:
Then range them in the Jarr or Barrellet with Herbs and
Spice as uſual; and cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts
Beer-Vinegar, and one of White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well cloſed.
A Fortnight after ſcald the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above:
Thus they will keep longer, and from being ſo ſoon ſharp,
eat crimp and well taſted, tho’ not altogether ſo green. You may
add a Walnut-Leaf, Hyſop, Coſtmary, &c. and as ſome
do, ſtrow on them a little Powder of Roch-Allom, which makes
them firm and eatable within a Month or ſix Weeks after.

Mango of Cucumbers.

Take the biggest Cucumbers (and moſt of the Mango ſize)
that look green: Open them on the Top or Side; and ſcooping out the
Seeds, ſupply their Place with a ſmall Clove of Garlick, or
ſome Roccombo Seeds. Then put them into an Earthen Glazed
Jarr, or wide-mouth’d Glaſs, with as much White-Wine Vinegar as
will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c.
and when off the Fire, as much Salt as will [135] make a gentle Brine; and
ſo pour all boyling-hot on the Cucumbers, covering them cloſe
till the next Day. Then put them with a little Dill, and Pickle into a
large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, return them into the Veſſel
again: And when all is cold, add a good Spoonful of the beſt Muſtard,
keeping it from the Air, and ſo have you an excellent Mango.
When you have occaſion to take any out, make uſe of a Spoon,
and not your Fingers.

Elder. See Buds.

Flowers. See Cowſlips, and for other Flowers.

15. Limon. Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and ſhift
them in ſeveral Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and
wipe them dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little
White-Wine Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar,
carefully ſcum’d. When all is cold, pour it on the peel’d Rind, and
cover it all cloſe in a convenient Glaſs Jarr. Some make a Syrup
of Vinegar, White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot.

16. Melon. The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as
Cucumber, make an excellent Sallet. [136]

17. Muſhrom. Take a Quart of the beſt White-Wine Vinegar; as
much of White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten
together: Let the Spice boil therein to the Conſumption of half; then
taken off, and being cold, pour the Liquour on the Muſhroms; but
leave out the boiled Spice, and caſt in of the ſame ſort of
Spice whole, the Nutmeg only ſlit in Quarters, with ſome
Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you pleaſe a whole raw Onion, which
take out again when it begins to periſh.

Another.

The Muſhroms peel’d, &c. throw them into Water,
and then into a Sauce-Pan, with ſome long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a
quarter’d Nutmeg, with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little
Salt. Let them all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then
take out and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them
in ſome White-Wine; which (being cold) caſt upon the Muſhroms,
and fill up the Pot with the beſt White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two,
and an Handful of Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long
keeping, pour Sallet-Oil over all, tho’ they will be preſerved a Year
without it.

They are ſometimes boil’d in Salt and Water, with ſome Milk,
and laying them in the Colender [137] to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, caſt
them into the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg,
Ginger bruiſed, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the
Liquor on them cold without boiling.

18. Naſturtium Indicum. Gather the Buds before they open to
flower; lay them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into
an Earthen Glazed Veſſel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover
it with a Board. Thus letting it ſtand for eight or ten Days: Then
being taken out, and gently preſs’d, caſt them into freſh
Vinegar, and let them ſo remain as long as before. Repeat this a
third time, and Barrel them up with Vinegar and a little Salt.

Orange. See Limon.

20. Potato. The ſmall green Fruit (when about the ſize of the
Wild Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being roaſted
under the Embers, or otherwiſe, open’d with a Knife, the Pulp is
butter’d in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and is
ſeaſoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar
together in the Skin, which has a pleaſant Crimpneſs. They are
alſo ſtew’d and bak’d in Pyes, &c. [138]

21. Purſelan. Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them
with Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to
imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much
White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and cloſe the Lid with
Paſte to keep in the Steam: Then ſet them on the Fire for three
or four Hours, often ſhaking and ſtirring them: Then open the
Cover, and turn and remove thoſe Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to
the Top, and boil them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all
is cold, pot them with freſh White-Wine Vinegar, and ſo you may
preſerve them the whole Year round.

22. Radiſh. The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl’d, are a pretty
Sallet.

23. Sampier. Let it be gathered about Michaelmas (or the Spring)
and put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a
clean Tin’d Braſs Pot, with three parts of ſtrong White-Wine
Vinegar, and one part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the
Sampier, keeping the Vapour from iſſuing out, by paſting
down the Pot-lid, and ſo hang it over the Fire for half an Hour only.
Being taken off, let it remain covered till it be cold; and then put it up
into ſmall Barrels [139] or Jars, with the Liquor, and ſome
freſh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it will keep very green. If
you be near the Sea, that Water will ſupply the place of Brine. This
is the Dover Receit.

24. Walnuts. Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but
not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as will
more than cover them. Then ſet them on the Fire, and when the water
boils, and grows black, pour it off, and ſupply it with freſh,
boiling it as before, and continuing to ſhift it till it become
clear, and the Nuts pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean
Spring Water for two Days, changing it as before with freſh, two or
three times within this ſpace: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a
clean courſe Cloth, and put them up in a Glaſs Jar, with a few
Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves, Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; ſtrowing
them under every Layer of Nuts, till the Veſſel be three
quarters full; and laſtly, repleniſhing it with the beſt
Vinegar, keep it well covered; and ſo they will be fit to ſpend
within three Months.

To make a Mango with them.

The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with
ſome Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt, &c. and then a Bed of
Nuts; and ſo [140]
ſtratum upon ſtratum, as above, adding to the Spice
ſome Roccombo-Seeds; and filling the reſt of the Jar with
the beſt White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the beſt Muſtard;
and to let them remain cloſe covered, during two or three Months
time: And thus have you a more agreeable Mango than what is brought
us from abroad; which you may uſe in any Sauce, and is of it ſelf
a rich Condiment.

Thus far Pickles.

25. Potage Maigre. Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three
Onions ſtuck with ſome Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon
Peel, Salt, whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in
a fine Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then
having Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few ſmall
Tops of Cives, waſh’d and pick’d clean, ſhred them well, and caſt
them into the Liquor, with a Pint of blue Peaſe boil’d ſoft and
ſtrain’d, with a Bunch of ſweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a
French Roll; and ſo ſuffer it to boil during three Hours; and
then diſh it with another ſmall French Roll, and Slices
about the Diſh: Some cut Bread in ſlices, and frying them brown
(being dried) put them into the Pottage juſt as it is going to be
eaten.

[141]

The ſame Herbs, clean waſh’d, broken and pulled aſunder
only, being put in a cloſe cover’d Pipkin, without any other Water or
Liquor, will ſtew in their own Juice and Moiſture. Some add an
whole Onion, which after a while ſhould be taken out, remembring to
ſeaſon it with Salt and Spice, and ſerve it up with Bread
and a Piece of freſh Butter.

26. Pudding of Carrot. Pare off ſome of the Cruſt of
Manchet-Bread, and grate of half as much of the reſt as there is of
the Root, which muſt alſo be grated: Then take half a Pint of
freſh Cream or New Milk, half a Pound of freſh Butter, ſix
new laid Eggs (taking out three of the Whites) maſh and mingle them
well with the Cream and Butter: Then put in the grated Bread and Carrot,
with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a little Salt; ſome grated
Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a convenient Diſh or Pan,
butter’d, to keep the Ingredients from ſticking and burning; ſet
it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and ſo have you a Compoſition
for any Root-Pudding.

27. Penny-royal. The Cream, Eggs, Spice, &c. as above, but
not ſo much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and
Marigold [142]
flower, &c. very well ſhred, and mingle with the
Cream, Eggs, &c. four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of
Cream, and almoſt a Pound of Beef-Suet chopt very ſmall, the
Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and ſtirring all well together, put it
into a Bag flower’d and tie it faſt. It will be boil’d within an
Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the Carrot-Pudding. The
ſauce is for both, a little Roſe-water, leſs Vinegar, with
Butter beaten together and poured on it ſweetned with the Sugar Caſter.

Of this Plant diſcreetly dried, is made a moſt wholſom
and excellent Tea.

28. Of Spinage. Take a ſufficient Quantity of Spinach,
ſtamp and ſtrain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the
Yolk of as many Eggs as in the former Compoſition of the
Carrot-Pudding; ſome Marrow ſhred ſmall, Nutmeg, Sugar,
ſome Corinths, (if you pleaſe) a few Carroways, Roſe, or
Orange-flower Water (as you beſt like) to make it grateful. Mingle
all with a little boiled Cream; and ſet the Diſh or Pan in the
Oven, with a Garniſh of Puff-Paſte. It will require but very
moderate Baking. Thus have you Receits for Herb Puddings.

29. Skirret-Milk Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp
ſtrained out, put into Cream [143] or new Milk boiled, with three or four
Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice, &c. And thus
is compoſed any other Root-Milk. See Acetar. p. 42.

30. Tanſie. Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biſcuits,
put them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve freſh Eggs, four of
the Whites caſt out, ſtrain the reſt, and break them with
two Spoonfuls of Roſe-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated
Nutmeg: And when ready for the Pan, put almoſt a Pint of the Juice of
Spinach, Cleaver, Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primroſe
tender Leaves, (for of any of theſe you may take your choice) with a
very ſmall Sprig of Tanſie, and let it be fried ſo as to
look green in the Diſh, with a Strew of Sugar and ſtore of the
Juice of Orange: ſome affect to have it fryed a little brown and criſp.

31. Tart of Herbs. An Herb-Tart is made thus: Boil freſh
Cream or Milk, with a little grated Bread or Naples-Biſcuit (which
is better) to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete
(or what other Herb you pleaſe) being firſt par-boil’d and
chop’d. Then add Macaron, or Almonds beaten to a Paſte, a
little ſweet Butter, the Yolk of five Eggs, three of the Whites
rejected. [144]
To theſe ſome add Corinths plump’d in Milk, or boil’d
therein, Sugar, Spice at Diſcretion, and ſtirring it all
together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan.

32. Thiſtle. Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the
Milky-Thiſtle, about May, when they are young and tender:
waſh and ſcrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little
Salt, till they are very ſoft, and ſo let them lie to drain.
They are eaten with freſh Butter melted not too thin, and is a
delicate and wholſome Diſh. Other Stalks of the ſame kind
may ſo be treated, as the Bur, being tender and diſarmed
of its Prickles, &c.

33. Trufles, and other Tubers, and Boleti, are roaſted
whole in the Embers; then ſlic’d and ſtew’d in ſtrong
Broth with Spice, &c. as Muſhroms are. Vide
Acetar. p. 28.

34. Turnep. Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to ſeed)
as far as they will eaſily break downwards: Peel and tie them in
Bundles. Then boiling them as they do Sparagus, are to be eaten
with melted Butter. Laſtly,

35. Minc’d, or Sallet-all-sorts. Take Almonds blanch’d in cold
Water, cut them round and thin, and ſo leave them in the [145] Water;
Then have pickl’d Cucumbers, Olives, Cornelians, Capers, Berberries,
Red-Beet, Buds of Naſturtium, Broom, &c. Purſlan-stalk,
Sampier, Aſh-Keys, Walnuts, Muſhrooms (and almoſt of all
the pickl’d Furniture) with Raiſins of the Sun ſton’d, Citron
and Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleanſed and dried) &c. mince
them ſeverally (except the Corinths) or all together; and ſtrew
them over with any Candy’d Flowers, and ſo diſpose of them in
the ſame Diſh both mixt, and by themſelves. To theſe
add roaſted Maroons, Piſtachios, Pine-Kernels, and of
Almonds four times as much as of the reſt, with ſome Roſe-water.
Here alſo come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in little China
Diſhes. And thus have you an Univerſal Winter-Sallet, or
an All ſort in Compendium, fitted for a City Feaſt, and
diſtinguiſhed from the Grand-Sallet: which ſhou’d
conſiſt of the Green blanch’d and unpickled, under a ſtately
Pennaſh of Sellery, adorn’d with Buds and Flowers.

And thus have we preſented you a Taſte of our Engliſh
Garden Houſewifry in the matter of Sallets: And though
ſome of them may be Vulgar, (as are moſt of the beſt
things;) Yet ſhe was willing to impart them, to ſhew the Plenty,
Riches and Variety of the Sallet-Garden: And to juſtifie
[146] what
has been aſſerted of the Poſſibility of living (not
unhappily) on Herbs and Plants, according to Original and
Divine Inſtitution, improved by Time and long Experience. And if
we have admitted Muſhroms among the reſt (contrary to our
Intention, and for Reaſons given, Acet. p. 43.)
ſince many will by no means abandon them, we have endeavoured to
preſerve them from thoſe pernicious Effects which are attributed
to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whether they were ſo
treated and accommodated for the moſt Luxurious of the Cæſarean
Tables, when that Monarchy was in its higheſt Strain of
Epicuriſm, and ingroſs’d this Haugout for their ſecond
Courſe; whilſt this we know, that ’tis but what Nature affords
all her Vagabonds under every Hedge.

And now, that our Sallets may not want a Glaſs of generous
Wine of the ſame Growth with the reſt of the Garden to recommend
it, let us have your Opinion of the following.

Cowſlip-Wine. To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of
Sugar; boil it an Hour, and ſet it to cool: Then ſpread a
good brown Toaſt on both Sides with Yeaſt: But before you
make uſe of it, beat ſome Syrup of Citron with it, an
Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor: Then put in the Toaſt
whilſt hot, to aſſiſt its Fermentation, [147] which
will ceaſe in two Days; during which time caſt in the Cowſlip-Flowers
(a little bruiſed, but not much ſtamp’d) to the Quantity of
half a Buſhel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four Limons
ſlic’d, with the Rinds and all. Laſtly, one Pottle of
White or Rheniſh Wine; and then after two Days, tun it up
in a ſweet Cask. Some leave out all the Syrup.

And here, before we conclude, ſince there is nothing of more conſtant
Uſe than good Vinegar; or that has ſo near an Affinity to all
our Acetaria, we think it not amiſs to add the following (much
approved) Receit.

Vinegar. To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three
Pounds of Malaga-Raiſins: Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and
place them where they may have the hotteſt Sun, from May till
Michaelmas: Then preſſing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a
very ſtrong Iron-Hooped Veſſel to prevent its burſting.
It will appear very thick and muddy when newly preſs’d, but will
refine in the Veſſel, and be as clear as Wine. Thus let it
remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off, and it will
prove Excellent Vinegar.

Butter. Butter being likewiſe ſo frequent and neceſſary
an Ingredient to divers of the foregoing Appendants: It ſhould
be carefully melted, that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by
melting [148]
it leiſurely, with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Diſh
or Pan; and by continual ſhaking and ſtirring, kept from boiling
or over-heating, which makes it rank.

Other rare and exquiſite Liquors and Teas (Products of our
Gardens only) we might ſuper-add, which we leave to our Lady
Houſewives, whoſe Province indeed all this while it is.

THE END

[pg]

The Table

• Abſtemious Perſons who eat no Fleſh, nor were under
  Vows, 104
• Abſterſives, 42
• ACETARIA, Criticiſms on the Word, how they differ from Olera,
  &c., 1
• Achilles, 77
• Acids, 63
• Adam and Eve lived on Vegetables and Plants, 94
• Africans eat Capſicum Indicum, 34
• Aged Perſons, 44;
  • Sallet-Eaters, 80
• Agues, 81
• Air, 80
• Alliaria, 19
• Ale, 15
• Alleluja, 47
• Alexanders, 5
• Allium, 18
• Altar dedicated to Lettuce, 21
• Anagallis, 9
• Annæus Serenus poiſoned by Muſhroms, 27
• Anatomy, Comparative, 90
• Antecœnia, 74
• Antediluvians eat no Fleſh for 2000 years, 80
• Aparine, 12
• Aperitives, 10
• Appetite, 21;
  • How to subdue, 98
• Apician Luxury, 103
• Apium, 35;
  • Italicum, 41
• Aromatics, 13
• Artichoaks, 5
• Arum Theophraſti, 48
• Aſcalonia, 41
• Aſcetics, 106
• Aſparagus, 43;
  • preferable to the Dutch, 43;
  • how to cover in Winter without Dung, 87
• Aſphodel, 23
• Aſtringents, 9
• Aſthmatical, 31
• Aſſa fœtida, 52
• Atriplex, 32
• Auguſtus, 21
• Autumn, 71

B.

• Barlæus’s Deſcription Poetic of a Sallet Collation, 113 [pg]
• Baſil, 7
• Baulm, 7
• Beere, 15
• Beet, 7, 79
• Benzoin, 51
• Bile, 36
• Blite, 8
• Blood to purifie, 8;
  • Eating it prohibited, 100
• Boletus, 26
• Books of Botany, 54;
  • to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants, ib.
• Borrage, 8
• Bowels, 58
• Brain, 7, 38
• Bramins, 97
• Brandy and Exotic Liquors pernicious, 93
• Bread and Sallet ſufficient for Life, 2;
  • Made of Turnips, 46
• Breaſt, 19
• Broccoli, 10
• Brook lime, 9
• Broth, 19
• Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why, 91
• Buds, 9
• Buglos, 9
• Bulbo Caſtanum, 15
• Buphthalmum, 15
• Burnet, 35
• Butter, 64

C.

• Cabbage, 10
• Capſicum Indicum, 34
• Cardialgia, 34
• Carduus Sativus, 5
• Cardon, Spaniſh, 6
• Carnivorous Animals, 89
• Carrots, 11
• Cattel reliſh of their Paſture and Food, 86;
  • Vide Fowl.
• Cauly flower, 11
• Cepæ, 31
• Cephalics, 30
• Chæriphyllum, 12
• Champignons, 26;
  • Vide Muſhroms.
• Chaſtity, 21
• Children chuſe to eat Fruit before other Meat, 94
• Chriſtians abſtaining from eating Fleſh, 97
• Choler, 20
• Church Catholics Future Glory predicted, 115
• Cibarium, 63
• Cicuta, 48
• Cinara, 5
• Clary, 12
• Claudius Cæſar, 27
• Claver, 12
• [pg] Cleanſing, 44
• Climate, 80
• Cochlearia, 41;
  • vide Scurvy-Graſs.
• Cooks, 77;
  • Phyſicians to Emperors and Popes, 55;
  • vide Heroes.
• Collation of Sallet, Extemporary, 73
• Cold, 16
• Cooling, 33
• Complexion, 84
• Compoſing, and Compoſer of Sallets, 71
• Compotation, 74
• Conceſſion to eat Fleſh, ſince which Mens Lives
  ſhortned, 97
• Concoction, 18
• Condiments, 64;
  • vide Sauce.
• Conſcience, 98
• Conſent; vide Harmony.
• Conſtitution of Body, 57
• Conſuls and Great Perſons ſupt in their Garden, 121
• Contemplative Perſons, 104
• Convictus Facilis, 117
• Cordials, 7
• Coriander, 49
• Corrago, 9
• Correctives, 82
• Corn, what Ground moſt proper for it, 86
• Corn Sallet, 12
• Corroboratives, 52
• Corpulency, 82
• Cowſlips, 13
• Creſſes, 13
• Crithmum, 40
• Crudities, 26
• Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food, 99
• Cucumber, 13
• Culture, its Effects, 42
• Cuſtom, 81;
  • Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to Rome, 119