MISSION FURNITURE

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART TWO

POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS

CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1910

By H. H. WINDSOR

This book is one of the series of
handbooks on industrial subjects
being published by the Popular
Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these
books are “written so you can understand
it,” and are intended to furnish
information on mechanical subjects at a
price within the reach of all.

The texts and illustrations have been
prepared expressly for this Handbook
Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and
have been revised by the editor of Popular
Mechanics.

The dimensions given in the stock
list contained in the description
of each piece of furniture illustrated
in this book call for material
mill-planed, sanded and cut to length.
If the workman desires to have a complete
home-made article, allowance
must be made in the dimensions for
planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S
and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface
four sides and surface two sides.

Contents

List of Illustrations

AN OAK BUFFET



Finished Buffet


Details of Buffet

The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show
a design of a buffet wherein refinement of outline
and harmony of details are conspicuously regarded.
Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for
this handsome piece of mission furniture. The
material should be ordered from the mill ready cut
[Pg 7]

to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list
of the stock needed:

  • 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in.
  • 2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in.
  • 4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in.
  • 2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in.
  • 4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in.
  • 4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in.
  • 2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in.
  • 1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
  • 1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
  • 1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in.
  • 2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in.
  • 4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in.
  • 2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in.
  • 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in.
  • 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in.
  • 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood.
  • 2 partitions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in.
  • 2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.
  • 2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood.
  • 2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood.
  • 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in.
  • 1 mirror frame (to suit mirror).

Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length
in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat
surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the
rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This
insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also
have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay
out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same
manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back
rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and
the side pieces for the panels.

Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper
[Pg 8]
size and notch the corners to fit about the posts.
These boards are fastened to the 1-1/2-in. square rails
with dowels and glue. They can now be glued together
and set away to dry. The top board is of oak,
and be sure to get the best side up, while the bottom
one can be made of soft wood if desired.

The partitions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to
get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the
partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the
inside.

The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises
in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also
rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws.

A plate glass mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to
the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the
mirror frame.

The main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together. Before
applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The
end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be
very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and
straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry
slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already
fastened to the top and bottom boards.

The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done.
Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to
dry.

The doors are now made by mortising the top and
bottom pieces to take the 3/8-in. panel which is glued
in place. The drawers are made as shown in the
[Pg 9]
sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder
can be made of soft wood. The joints are
nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for the doors and
handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique
copper trimmings look very well with this style
of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware
store.

The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the
usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from about
the joints, as stain will not take where there is any
glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply
the stain you like best. This can be any one of
the many mission stains supplied by the trade for
this purpose.

OAK STAIN

An easy and at the same time a good way to
stain oak in imitation of the fumed effect, is to boil
catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb. of water,
after which cool and strain. Apply this to the
wood, and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate
of potash in the same proportion as with the
catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will
give a good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash
and 2 oz. of potash mixed in a quart of water makes
a good stain. Potash solution darkens the wood,
and when applied very strong will produce an almost
ebon hue, due to what we might describe as the
burning of the wood fiber.
[Pg 10]

A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK

The hall clock shown in the illustration should be
made of plain oak. The following pieces will be
needed to make it:

  • 2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S.
  • 10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S.
  • 10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S.

FRONT DOORS

  • 4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.

BACK

  • 1 piece, 3/8 by 14 by 21 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 pieces, 3/8 by 14 by 18 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 20 in., S-4-S.

TOP SIDE PANELS

  • 2 pieces, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 14 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 6 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 middle side panels, 3/4 by 9-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S.

LOWER SIDE PANELS

  • 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 18 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 18 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.

If the worker will take the trouble to combine the
different lengths of pieces having like thicknesses
and widths into pieces of standard lengths, he will be
able to save himself some expense at the mill with
no more work for himself.

Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated
in the drawing. Lay out and cut the mortises
for the tenons of the horizontals or rails. These
mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced
later with lag screws as is the clock shown.
[Pg 11]
They may be what are known as stub tenons and mortises. The tenons are
not more than 1/2 in. long, just enough to keep the rail from turning
about.

Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag
screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes
will miss each other. Use a 3/8 by 3-in. lag screw, boring the hole in
the tenon with a 1/4-in. bit the full depth the screw is to enter.

The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before
the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the
grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places.



Hall Clock Complete

[Pg 12]



Details of Hall Clock

The mullions of the lower side panels, it will be noted, are specified
5/8 and 3/4 in. wide. The 5/8-in. pieces are for the central parts of
the frame and the others for the outside. The frame is to be made 1/8
in. larger all around than the distance between the posts and between
the rails so that it may be set in

[Pg 13]
grooves cut in the posts and the rails to a similar
depth, 1/8 in. This is true, also, of the mullions
of the front doors. Square up the shelves so that
they may be set into grooves in the adjacent rails.
The middle shelf is to have an overhang and will
rest upon the rails.

The mullions of the top side panels are all of the
same width, and it is not intended or necessary to
set their frame into grooves in the posts. The wood
panel back of them gives ample strength.

It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon
which the figures are placed, and which becomes
the face of the clock. It is better to fit this piece
in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back
side so that it can be readily taken off to get at the
clock movement from the front.

Make the doors, tenoning the rails into the stiles
and grooving both to receive the mullioned framework
of 3/16-in. stuff.

Put the whole frame together, using good hot
glue for the joints. When the glue has dried sufficiently
to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit the
doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look
well and are the easiest to apply.

Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and
sandpaper the parts preparatory to applying the
finish.

To finish, apply one coat of mission oak water
stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00
paper. Apply a second coat, diluted with an equal
amount of water. Sand this lightly and put on a
very thin coat of shellac to keep the filler color,
which follows, from discoloring the high lights.
When the shellac has had time to harden, sand
[Pg 14]
lightly and put on a coat of paste filler. Use light
filler, colored with umber and Venetian red in the
proportion of 12 oz, of umber, and 4 oz. of red to
20 lb. of filler. The directions for applying the filler
will be found on the can labels. On the hardened
filler apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac
lightly and put on several coats of some good floor
wax, polishing well according to the directions on
the can. This is what is known as a mission oak
finish and is quite popular for this type of furniture
design.

The metal figures for the dial come with the clock
movement. Some of the movements come already
set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do is
to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing
boxes and fasten them to the frame with screws
from the back. A clock with dial figures, eight-day
movement, striking the hours and half hours, with
cathedral gong can be bought for $4, possibly less.

A ROCKING CHAIR

In furniture construction such as this, nothing is
gained by trying to plane up the stock out of the
rough. This is mere drudgery and can be more
cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by
machinery. There will be plenty to do to cut and
fit all the different parts. Order the pieces mill-planed
and sandpapered to the sizes specified below.

Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely
and is appropriate. Some people like quartered
white oak better, however. The cost is about the
same.[Pg 15]

The stock for the chair is as follows: Widths and
thicknesses are specified exact except for the rear
posts and the rockers; but to the lengths enough surplus
stock has been added to allow for squaring
the ends.

  • 2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 11 by 40 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 front horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 back horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 side horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 back slats, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 arms, 1 by 4-1/2 by 25 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 rocker, 2-1/4 by 6 by 33 in., S-2-S.
  • 5 bottom slats, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.


Rocking Chair Complete

[Pg 16]



Details of Rocking Chair

Begin work on the posts first. The front posts
should have one end of each squared, after which
[Pg 17]
they can be cut to the exact length. The rear
posts, according to the stock bill, are specified for
the exact thickness. By exercising forethought, both
may be got from the piece ordered. The tops and
bottoms of the posts should have their edges slightly
chamfered to prevent their slivering.

The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary,
but the drawing indicates quite clearly how
it is cut. The arm is fastened to the posts by means
of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair
have been put together.

Now prepare the curved parts of the back. These
parts are worked to size, after which they are
thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms described
on another page. These forms should have a surface
curve whose radius is 22 in. While the parts are
drying out, go ahead with the cutting of the mortises
and tenons of post and rail.

Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair
exceeds that of the back by 2 in., allowance must
be made for slant either in the tenons of the side
rails or in the mortises. This will necessitate the
use of the bevel in laying off the shoulders of the
tenons.

The slats for the bottom are made long enough so
that their ends may be “let into” the front and back
rails, a 3/4-in. groove being plowed to receive them.

Assemble the back, then the front; and when the
glue on them has dried, put the side rails in place,
then the arms. The chair should now be scraped
and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish.

The cushion shown in the picture is made of
Spanish roan skin leather and is filled with elastic
felt. Such cushions can be purchased at the upholsterer’s
[Pg 18]
or they can be made by the craftsman
himself. Frequently the two parts of the cushion
are laced together by means of leather thongs.

A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR

The arm chair, the picture and drawing of which
is given herewith is a companion piece to the rocker
described on another page.

With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill
which follows gives the thicknesses and widths
exact. To the length, however, enough has been
added to allow squaring up the ends.

Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for
a design such as this.

  • Front posts, 2 pieces, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 26 in., S-4-S.
  • Back posts, 1 piece, 1-5/8 by 8 by 45 in., S-2-S.
  • Front horizontals, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • Rear horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/4 in., S-4-S.
  • Side horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • Back slats, 2 pieces, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • Arms, 2 pieces, 1-1/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
  • Seat slats, 5 pieces, 1/2 by 2-1/4 by 20 in., S-4-S.

Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front
posts and shaping the rear ones Chamfer the ends
of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall
not splinter through usage. Next lay out the mortises
and tenons.

The curved horizontals for the back should now
be prepared and steamed as described on another
page. The curved form to which the steamed piece
is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved
slightly more than is wanted in the piece, as the
piece when released will tend to straighten a little.

The arms of the chair may be shaped while these
pieces are drying on the forms. The rails of the
[Pg 19]
front and back may be tenoned, too. It should be
noted that the front of the chair is wider than the
back. This will necessitate care in mortising and
tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the
shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying
out the shoulders of the tenons.



Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back

[Pg 20]



Details of Curved Back Arm Chair

Assemble the back, then the front. When the
glue has hardened on these parts so that the clamps
may be removed, put in the side rails or horizontals
[Pg 21]
and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be
fastened to the posts with dowels and glue.

The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather
cushion to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats
which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back
seat rails or they may be “let in” to these rails by grooving their
inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place. The latter
method is more workmanlike, but more difficult.

A cushion such as is shown can be purchased ready made up, or it may be
made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut
to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather
thong. It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers
use.

Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a
coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put
on a very thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and follow with two or
more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well.

A PLATE RACK

The plate rack shown in the accompanying illustration is designed for
use in a room furnished in mission style. The dimensions may be changed
to suit the wall space. The parts are held together entirely by keys.
The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but
this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall.

The following list of material will be needed, and,
[Pg 22]
if the builder does not care to do the rough work,
the stock can be ordered planed, sanded and cut to
the exact size of the dimensions given.

  • 2 ends, 7/8 by 5 by 20 in.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 6 by 36 in.
  • 1 shelf, 7/8 by 5 by 36 in.
  • 1 bar, 7/8 in. square by 36 in.
  • 4 keys. Scrap pieces will do.

Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for
the tenons of the shelf, also the tenons on the top
ends and the diamond shaped openings. In laying
these out, work from the back edge of the pieces.
Cut the tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the
mortises in the end pieces, numbering each one so
the parts can be put together with the tenons in
the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises
in the top to receive the tenons on the end
pieces.



Parts Held Together by Keys

In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little
extra on the side toward the shoulder so the ends
and tops may be drawn up tightly when the keys are
[Pg 23]
driven in the mortises. All the mortises and diamond
shaped openings should be marked and cut
with a chisel from both sides of the board.

If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat
side or edge out as shown.



Details of Plate Rack

Finish the pieces separately with any weathered
or fumed oak stain. When thoroughly dry, apply
a very thin coat of shellac. Finish with two coats of
wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two
mirror plates fastened on the back edges of the end
pieces.

TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES

On some work it is quite difficult to locate the
exact point for a dowel, but with the tool illustrated
placed between the joint to be made and the parts
gently pressed together you have the exact point for
the dowel in each piece. The tool is made from a
[Pg 24]
piece of sheet steel about 1/2 in. square with a pin
having a point on both ends driven in the center,
as shown in Fig. 1. The tool is placed between the
pieces that are to be joined, as shown in Fig. 2.
The small pin will mark the point for the bit in both
pieces exactly opposite.



Marking Bore Holes for Dowels

A MAGAZINE TABLE

This little magazine table will be found a very useful
piece of furniture for the den or library. Its small
size permits it to be set anywhere in a room without
being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be used
in its construction, and the following pieces will be
needed:

4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in., S-4-S.
4 end slats, 1/2 by 2 by 10 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 1 by 16 by 30 in., S-1-S.
1 top board, 1 by 18 by 36 in., S-1-S.

If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure
these pieces ready cut to length, squared and
sanded. This will save you considerable labor.

The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered
at the bottom to prevent the corners from splitting.
[Pg 25]
The mortises for the shelf should be cut 9 in.
from the top of each leg, as shown in the sketch. Care
should be taken to make these a perfect fit.



Table Complete

The shelf should be finished on the top side and
the four edges, and the corners cut out to fit the mortises
in the table legs. An enlarged view of this joint
is shown in the sketch.

The top board may have to be made of two 9-in.
boards, dove-tailed and glued together. It should be
finished on the top side and the edges. The edges can
be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs
by means of screws through four small brass angles.
These angles can be made or they can be purchased
at any hardware store.
[Pg 26]



Details of Magazine Table

[Pg 27]

The top board and the shelf should be mortised at
each end for the 1/2 by 2-in. slats. These slats should
be finished on all sides.

The table is now ready to be assembled and glued
together. The glue should dry at least 24 hours before
the clamps are removed.

After the glue is dry, carefully go over the entire
table with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue
and rough spots. It can now be finished in any one of
the mission stains which are supplied by the trade for
this purpose.

A WASTE PAPER BASKET

A waste paper basket of pleasing design, and very
easy to construct, is shown in the accompanying
sketch. Quarter-sawed oak
is the best wood to use, and
it is also the easiest to obtain.
The following pieces
will be needed:

  • 1 bottom piece, 3/4 by 9 in. square.
  • 4 corner pieces, 3/4 in. square by 15-1/2 in.
  • 4 top rails, 3/4 in. square by 7-1/2 in.
  • 12 slats, 1/4 by 3/4 by 16-1/4 in.
  • 4 blocks, 1 in. square.
  • 4 F.H. screws, 2-1/2 in. long.
  • 24 R.H. screws, 3/4 in. long.


A WASTE PAPER BASKET

If the pieces are ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and
sanded, much labor will be saved. First bevel the ends of the corner
posts and the slats, as shown, and finish them with
[Pg 28]
sandpaper. Bore the holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel
pins. These pins should be about 3/8 in. in diameter and 3/4 in. long.
When this is done the parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry.
The four blocks 1 in. square are for the feet. Bore holes through these
blocks and the corners of the bottom board for the large screws to go
through. Fasten them together by running the screws through the blocks,
and the board into the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch.
The 1/4-in. slats can now be fastened on with the small round-headed
screws. They should be evenly spaced on the four sides. This completes
the basket except for the finish. This can be any one of the many
finishes supplied by the trade for this purpose.



DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET

[Pg 29]

AN OAK WRITING DESK

For the writing desk shown in the accompanying
picture the following stock will be needed. The thicknesses
of all the pieces are specified. On the legs the
widths, too, are specified. Quarter-sawed white oak is
the best wood to use, and it should be well seasoned
and clear of shakes and other imperfections.

STOCK BILL

  • 2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 34 in., S-4-S., oak.
  • 2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 42 in., S-4-S., oak.
  • 2 lower side rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 9 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 back, 3/4 by 9 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 back, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 top, 3/4 by 6 by 30-in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 lid, 3/4 by 15 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 2 side shelves, 3/4 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 4 braces, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 1 bottom of case, 3/4 by 16 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.

INTERIOR

  • 1 piece, 3/4 by 16 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 4 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 6 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 4 drawer guides, 3/4 by 3/4 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.

DRAWERS

  • 2 front pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S., oak.
  • 4 side pieces, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 2 back pieces, 3/8 by 7 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 2 bottom pieces, 3/8 by 16 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar.

PIGEON HOLES

  • 1 bottom, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 1 top, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 4 verticals, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 10 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 1 vertical, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 4 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 5 horizontals, 3/16 by 7-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 2 horizontals, 4-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.

DRAWERS IN PIGEON HOLES

  • 2 front, 3/8 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 4 sides, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 7-1/4 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 2 backs, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
  • 2 bottoms, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.

[Pg 30]



Detail of Writing Desk

Begin work by cutting the posts to length and shape.
Having done this, lay out the tenons on the lower
rails so as to have the required distances between the
shoulders, and then cut them. Now cut the parts to
[Pg 31]
be worked into the frames that support the drawer
and bottom of the case, and glue them properly.
While this is drying, the other parts of the case may
be laid out and shaped. It is intended that the sides
of the case shall splice on the edge of the bottom
of the pigeon hole case. In this manner the side
shelves will cover the joint on either end. The back
may be made up into one solid piece. Make the side
pieces of the case long enough to be housed into the
posts about 3/8 in. at each end.



Writing Desk Complete

The shelves at the ends of the desk should be
fastened after the frame is put together and before
[Pg 32]
the bottom of the case for the pigeon holes is fitted
and fastened. In so doing the shelves may be fastened
from the inside of the case. The angles of the
braces are 30-60 deg. It will be noted that the edges
of the lid are rabbeted. Another way is to have the
lid large enough to fit entirely over the sides of the
case and change the slope to correspond.

The drawers may be made next. The fronts
should be of oak, but the other parts of yellow poplar.
An examination of an ordinary drawer will
show the manner of construction.

Make the frame of the pigeon holes of 3/16-in. yellow
poplar. The drawing shows an arrangement entirely
independent of the sides of the desk so that
the frame can be made and slipped in place after
the finish has been put on. Two drawers are shown.
These are faced front and back alike so as to secure
as much room in the drawer as possible.

In the finishing, the poplar wood should be finished
with white shellac in the natural light color of
the wood. For the oak parts the following is appropriate
for this design: Apply one coat of green
Flemish water stain. When this has dried, sandpaper
lightly until the raised grain has been removed,
and apply another coat of stain diluted one-half
with water. When dry, sand lightly and apply
a very thin coat of shellac. Sand lightly and apply
a coat of dark filler, natural filler colored with lamp-black,
according to the somberness of the finish desired.
Upon this put a coat of orange shellac. After
this, put on two coats of a good rubbing varnish.
Rub the first coats with curled hair or haircloth and
the last with pulverized pumice stone and raw linseed
oil or crude oil.[Pg 33]

AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS

This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be
made at a very moderate cost, if the material used
for the cushions is of good imitation leather.
These substitutes for leather last fully as long and
the difference can only be detected by an expert.
White oak will give the best results except for the
frames or slats on which the cushions rest and
these may be made of poplar or pine. If a mill or
woodworking shop of any kind is handy, the hardest
part of the work can be saved by securing the
following list of material, cut, planed, sanded and
squared up to the exact sizes given:

  • 2 posts, 3 in. square by 17 in.
  • 2 posts, 3 in. square by 26 in.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 8 by 82 in.
  • 1 rail, 7/8 by 8 by 25 in.
  • 1 end, 7/8 by 18 by 25 in.
  • 1 piece, 7/8 by 9 by 24-1/2 in.

The last piece on the list when sawed diagonal
makes the two slanting pieces at the head of the
couch. The corner braces are made from two
pieces of straight-grained oak, 2 by 4-1/2 by 4-1/2 in.,
sawed on the diagonal, and cut as shown in the
enlarged plan section to make the four pieces.

First be sure the legs are perfectly square, the
two short ones and the two long ones of equal length
respectively. Either chamfer or round the upper
ends as desired, chisel and plane the taper on the
lower ends. Lay out and cut all the tenons on the
rails—1 in. is the amount allowed at each end in
the stock dimensions given. Arrange the posts
and rails in the positions they are to occupy in the
[Pg 34]
finished couch. Number each tenon and the place its corresponding
mortise is to be cut in the post. Mark each mortise directly from the
tenon which is to fit into it, taking care to have all the rails an
equal distance from the floor. Bore and chisel out all mortises and see
that all the rails fit perfectly, before proceeding with the work.



Couch Complete

The next step will be to fit in the slanting side pieces at the head of
the couch. These must be let into the long posts 1/2 in. and held also
by a dowel in the side rail. In order to get these pieces into place,
the mortise in the long post must be made 1/2 in. longer than the tenon
on the sloping

[Pg 35]
side piece so the tenon may be first pushed
into the mortise and then the side clamped down
on the rail over the dowel. The whole couch should
fit together perfectly before gluing any of the parts.

Glue the end parts together first. Hot glue will hold best if the room
and lumber are warm; if these cannot be had, use cold glue. After the
ends have set for at least 24 hours, glue in place the side rails and
slanting head pieces. Screw in place the corner braces. Be sure when
making these braces to have the grain running diagonally across the
corner, or the brace will be weak, also, be sure the sides are square
with the ends; this may be determined by measuring the diagonals to find
if they are equal.

If it is decided to use frames for the cushions, then the following
material will be necessary:

  • 2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in.
  • 2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in.
  • 4 pieces 7/8 by 2 by 21 in.

This material may be of pine or poplar. These pieces are made into two
frames as shown in the drawing and held together with long screws or
nails. Fasten with glue and screw short blocks on the inside of the
couch rails for holding the two frames in place. Tack pieces of cheap
burlap across the frame and cover with ordinary black cambric. This will
give a strong, springy rest for the cushions.

Should slats be used instead of frames for holding the cushions, then
the following list of material should be substituted for the frame
material list:

  • 2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in.
  • 2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in.
  • 12 slats, 3/4 by 5 by 25 in.

[Pg 36]



Details of Mission Couch

The materials listed may be of soft wood the same
as for the frame. The cleats are fastened to the inside
[Pg 37]
of the rails of the couch with screws, so the top
edge will be 2 in. lower than the top edge of the rails.
The slats are spaced evenly on these cleats.

After the glue is all set, remove the clamps and
scrape off any glue that may be on the wood. If
this glue is not removed it will keep the stain from
entering the wood, which will show up when
finished in white spots.

This couch may be stained in any of the shades
of brown or dark to harmonize with its lines of construction.
A water stain will penetrate the wood
best and after this is applied and thoroughly dried
the surface should be well sanded to remove the
roughness of the raised grain. Apply one coat of
thin shellac and when this is dry, put on two coats
of wax.

In making up the cushions, use either hair or
elastic felt for the filling.

ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM

The dining shade shown is constructed of wood
and glass. There will be needed the following:

  • 8 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 4 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 23 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 8 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 9 in., S-4-S, oak.
  • 1 piece, 3/4 by 8 by 8 in., S-4-S, oak.

Begin work by shaping the ends of the longest
pieces as shown in the drawing. All the angles are
45 deg. Next lay out the cross-lap joints at the
corners so that two sets of horizontal frames shall
be formed 23 by 23 in. Cut four pieces to a length
of 3 in. each. Also shape up the “false” extensions
[Pg 38]
of these pieces which are to be fastened below the
lower frame at the corners. Since these are to be
cut from the pieces just specified, the easiest way is
to shape the end of each to the required angle and
then crosscut. Rabbet these pieces sufficient to allow
the art glass to set in on the back sides and
be fastened—about 1/4 in. will do—and put them
together with glue and brads.



Details of Shade

Now make the top square in a similar manner,
except the rabbets. In this top square is to be fitted
the 3/4-in. board which is to hold the lights and to
which the chains are to be fastened.

The sloping sides are next to be made. The sides
are to be built up separately, the corners being
lapped and glued after rabbeting the under arrises
sufficient to let the glass in. The four sides are
mitered together at their edges and reinforced by
covering the joint with copper.
[Pg 39]

These sides are next mitered to the top and bottom
frames and made fast on the under sides with
copper strips, glue being used on the edges of the
wood.

The shade shown had a mottled glass in which
greens predominated. The sizes and shapes of these
pieces of glass would better be determined after
the woodwork is finished.



Electric Shade Complete

One manner of fastening the chains is clearly
shown in the photograph. Such a combination will
call for an extra piece of oak, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 in.
finished stock.

A good finish for this shade is obtained as follows:
Put on a coat of silver gray water stain.
[Pg 40]
When this has dried, sand lightly with No. 00 sandpaper
and apply a coat of golden oak oil stain. Allow
this to dry after wiping the surplus off with a
cloth. Put on a coat of black paste filler and allow
to harden over night. When dry, sand lightly and
put on a coat of very thin shellac. Sand this lightly
when hard and put on a coat of wax. This is a
very dark finish relieved by high lights of lighter
brown and is known as Antwerp oak.

HOW TO BEND WOOD

The process for making bent wood for furniture
parts is the same as for any other kind of bent-wood
work. The pieces should be made close to
the size, with only enough material left on them for
“cleaning up” after the bending has been done. The
pieces used for the bent work should be good, clean,
“live” lumber. Lumber dried on the stump will
not bend.

A box must be made in which to steam the pieces
of wood to be bent. A design of a steaming box
is shown in the illustration. Such a box is made by
nailing four boards together into a square or rectangular
form, the boards having a length sufficient
to take in the length of the furniture parts to be
bent. Both ends of the finished box are squared up
and closed with a board cut to the size, using felt
or gunny sack in the joint to make it as tight as
possible. These ends can be nailed on, but it is
best to hold them with a bar of metal set against
each one. Nailing the ends a few times would
spoil the box for further use in steaming.
[Pg 41]



STEAMING BOX


HOSE ATTACHED TO TEAKETTLE.


FORM BLOCKS

[Pg 42]

A good teakettle will serve the purpose for a steam generator. A hose is
attached to the spout of the teakettle, as shown in the illustration,
and to the steaming box in a like manner. The steaming box should be
provided with a short piece of gas pipe turned into a hole bored into
one of the sides used for the top on which to attach the hose. A small
hole should be bored into one side of one end of the steaming box, and
this end should be arranged a trifle lower than the other end. The hole
will permit the water of condensation to escape. Steam should not escape
from the box when a charge of wood is being softened. Steam which
escapes from the box in the form of vapor has done no work whatever, and
is just so much waste of fuel. In order to give up its heat to the wood,
the steam must condense and come away from the box as water. Therefore,
in steaming a charge of pieces in the box, never crowd the teakettle so
hard that the steam escapes around the heads of the box or through any
other joints. The steam should be supplied to the box just as fast as it
condenses, and no faster. When the pieces are placed in the box they
should be so arranged that the steam can find ready access to all sides
of each piece.

The curve or bend of the piece to be made must be marked out on a wide
board or on the floor. Nail down several blocks of wood or pieces cut
out like brackets on the board or floor against the drawing, as shown in
the illustration. The wood is sprung between these blocks or forms after
it has been softened by steam. When taking the steamed pieces from the
box do not lose any time in securing
[Pg 43]
them to the forms. Do not take out more than one piece at a time, as it
must be bent to the forms immediately after taking it from the hot
steam. The time of the steaming will vary with the size of the pieces.
Small strips may be steamed in 15 or 20 minutes, while large ones may
require several hours to become soft enough to bend. The pieces must be
left in the forms until they are thoroughly dry.

A SMOKING STAND

When making the smoking stand shown in the
accompanying photograph, use quarter-sawed oak,
if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
finishing in the different mission stains. This little
piece of furniture is very attractive, easy to construct,
and is an article that a smoker would appreciate.

If the stock is purchased finished and sandpapered,
it will save much of the hard work. The material
needed is as follows:

  • One piece, 7/8 by 12 in. by 9 ft. long, for the legs.
  • One piece, 7/8 by 10 in. by 4 ft. long, for the top.
  • One piece, 7/8 by 8 in. by 1 ft. long, for the shelves.
  • One piece, 1/2 by 2 in. by 6 ft. long, for the pipe rack.

The legs can be made first. Cut four pieces off the
12-in. board, each exactly 25 in. long, and lay each one
out with a pair of compasses as shown in the detail
drawing at Fig. 1. With a circle or keyhole saw cut
out the piece, then shave out the saw marks and sandpaper
smooth.



Smoking Stand Details


Finished Smoking Stand

Next take the 8-in. board and make the shelves. Set
a bevel protractor at a 45-deg. angle, lay out the pieces
as shown in Fig. 5, and cut them out with a saw.
Eight pieces are cut out as shown in Fig. 4. These
[Pg 44]
pieces can be cut out of the scraps left from cutting
the legs and shelves. Cut them so that the grain runs
the long way. Place two of these braces on the bench
with the beveled ends toward each other, but with a
piece of 7/8-in. stock between them, and the other two
beveled ends resting against a straightedge. Fasten
them to the bench with a couple of nails, leaving the
heads sticking up so that you can pull them later with
a claw hammer. Remove the straightedge and slide
the piece that is between the braces along until it projects
4 or 5 in. from the side formed by the straightedge.
[Pg 45]
Then place two more braces in the corners
formed by this piece, put two 7/8-in. pieces between the
two braces that are fastened, and the two that are
loose, so that each brace will be in its proper place.
Fasten the last two the same as the first pair. Then
remove all the pieces from between the braces and
place the tops of the legs in their stead. These should
be fastened to the braces with 1-in. screws of small
diameter, put in at an angle. Bore a hole in straight
for about 1/4-in. with a 1/4-in. bit for each screw, and
then run a gimlet at an angle into the leg. After you
[Pg 46]
have the legs fastened to the first set of braces, measure
up from the bench 10 in. and put in another set,
being careful to get them all the same distance from
the bench, as the inner corners of the shelves rest on
these braces. Now pull out the nails and set the stand
on its feet.

Next put in the shelves. Place the inner corner of
one on one of the braces, and fasten it there with a
screw put through the brace from the bottom. Now
fasten a clamp on each leg at the ends of the shelf
in such a manner as to form a support on the top side
of the shelf. Then put four screws through the shelf
from the bottom into the legs. Repeat the operation
on each shelf, being careful to get them all the same
height. Four pieces like Fig. 3 should now be made.
These pieces will have to be fitted in place as they
should slant outward so that it will be easy to put
articles through the holes. The holes should be about
5/8-in. diameter.

The top can be made by cutting off two pieces from
the 10-in. board, each 20 in. long, and fastening them
together with dowels. Smooth the ends and be sure
that the boards match evenly. It makes a better job
to glue the top together, in addition to the dowels, and,
if you do this, it would be better to make the top first.
Then it will have time to dry before you are ready to
use it. In putting on the top, care should be taken to
get each of the corners an equal distance from the
legs. Then a screw may be put up through each one
of the braces and two or three through each leg into
the top. Now smooth all rough and uneven places
with fine sandpaper and apply the finish. Secure
some metal matchsafes and scratchers, fasten on as
shown in the photograph, and the stand is complete.
[Pg 47]

A CHINA CLOSET

This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be
made by anyone who has a few good tools and
knows how to use them. The cost is very moderate
and if you are convenient to a mill a great amount
of labor can be saved by ordering the pieces ready
cut to length, squared, and sanded. Quarter-sawed
oak should be used and the material needed will
be as follows:

  • 4 posts, 2 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 top and bottom boards, 3/4 by 15-3/4 by 39-1/2 in., S-1-S.
  • 2 shelves, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lower end braces, 3/4 by 5 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 upper end braces, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 lower front board, 3/4 by 3 by 40 in., S-1-S.
  • 1 upper front board, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 40 in., S-1-S.
  • 4 door frames, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 43-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 door frames, 3/4 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 upright end pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 39-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 5 back pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 46-1/2 in., S-1-S.
  • 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 37-3/4 in., soft wood.
  • 4 cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-3/4 in., soft wood.
  • 4 blocks, 1/2 by 1 by 1-1/2 in.

First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of
equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper
ends as desired. The mortises can be laid out and
cut, or they can be left until the tenons are all made
and then marked and cut directly from each tenon.

The top and bottom boards should have the
corners cut to clear the posts as shown in the drawing.
The top board should be finished on both
sides and the bottom one on the upper side only and
be sure to get the best side up.

[Pg 48]



Details of China Closet

Cut the tenons on the front boards back 1/4 in.
from the face as shown in the end view. The boards
should be finished on the outside sides and edges.
The end pieces are fitted and finished in a similar
manner except that the inside edge is rabbeted for
[Pg 49]
the glass as shown. The side pieces are also rabbeted
for the glass and the posts have grooves 1/2 in.
deep cut in them to hold these side pieces. They
are glued in place and this can be done after the
frame is put together.



China Closet Complete

The two shelves are finished on both sides and the
front edges. The doors are fitted in the usual manner
by a tenon and mortise joint at the ends. They
are rabbeted on the inside for the glass and are
finished on all sides.
[Pg 50]

Before gluing any of the parts together, see that they all fit and go
together perfectly square. The posts, side, and front pieces should be
glued and assembled, then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold
the frame square when the clamps are put on. Leave dry for about 24
hours, then scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints as the
finish will not take when there is any glue. Fasten the top and bottom
boards to the frame by means of screws through cleats as shown in the
drawing. The backing is put on and finished on the front side. A mirror
can be put in the back without much trouble, if it is desired. The
shelves should be put in place and held at the back by screws through
the backing and at the front by two small blocks on the posts as shown.

After the closet is all assembled it should be thoroughly gone over with
fine sandpaper before any finish is applied. It can be finished in any
one of the many mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this
purpose.

A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL

The illustration shows a very handy footstool in
mission style. The following list of materials will
be needed:

  • 4 oak posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in., soft wood.
  • 2 ends, 3/4 by 3 by 8 in., soft wood.
  • 1 bottom, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., soft wood.
  • 1 small box of 8 oz. tacks
  • 2-1/2 doz. ornamental head nails.
  • 1 piece of dark leather, 16 by 20 in.
  • 1/2 lb. hair and a small portion of mission stain.

The posts are the only parts made of quarter-sawed
[Pg 51]
oak, the other parts, being covered with
leather, can be made of any kind of soft wood.
Chamfer the top end of each post, and taper the
lower ends as shown in detail. When this is done
the mortises can be cut for the sides as shown in the
post detail. When cutting the mortises and tenons
take care to make them fit perfectly, as there is
nothing to brace the legs at the bottom. The strength
of the stool depends upon the joints. Make the surface
of the posts smooth by first using No. 1 sandpaper,
then finishing with No. 00.



Footstool Leather Covered

The parts are now assembled. First clamp the
ends together, using plenty of glue on the joints,
and drive some small nails on the inside of the posts
through the tenon ends. When the glue has set, the
remaining sides can be put together the same as the
ends. Fit the bottom on the inside about 1 in. from
the top. This can be made fast by driving nails
[Pg 52]
through the sides and ends of the board. The finishing
is done by putting on the mission stain as the directions
state on the can, then wax the surface to
get a dull gloss.



Details of Footstool

The leather is now put on. Notch out the corners to fit around the
posts, but do not cut the ends off. Lap them under the cover. Before
nailing on the cover fix the hair evenly over the top, about 6 in. deep.
Draw the leather over the hair and fasten the edges with the 8-oz.
tacks. The ornamental nails are driven in last, as shown in the drawing,
to make a good appearance.

ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK

The clock shown in the illustration was designed
especially for rooms furnished in mission style. The
clock, however, may be made of mahogany or other
wood to match the furniture in any room where it is
to be placed. If the mission effect is desired, an oxidized
or copper sash should be used. Movements
can be bought at the salesroom of a clock company.
A movement should be selected that is wide enough
[Pg 53]
from the front to the back to allow the clock case to
be made sufficiently deep for standing without being
easily upset.



Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front

Quarter-sawed white oak is the best material for
this clock, but any other wood which works easily
and takes a stain well may be used. Two pieces,
3/8 in. thick, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 8-1/2 in. long, will be
needed for the front and back. One piece, 5 in. wide,
6 in. long, and with a thickness sufficient for the
clock movement, is needed for the middle part. The
thickness of this piece depends on the movement
secured.

After the front and back pieces are finished, and
a piece of hammered copper screwed on the front
as shown in the drawing, the middle piece must be
made just thick enough to make the whole distance
from the front of the copper to the back of the clock
equal to the depth of the movement. Plane one edge
on both front and back pieces. Lay out the design
and the centers for the circular holes from this
[Pg 54]
planed edge. Use a plane and chisel to cut the outside
design. The hole can be bored out with an expansive
bit, or sawed out with a scroll saw, and filed
perfectly round with a half-round wood file. The
bit will give the best results. If the bit is used, bore
holes in a piece of scrap wood until the exact size is
found.



Details of Mantel Clock

The outside design of the piece of copper is made to correspond to the
design of the clock. The circular hole in the copper can be cut with the
expansive bit by first punching a hole in the center to receive the spur
of the bit, placing on a block of wood and boring through a little way.
The spur on the cutter will cut out the copper. Fasten the copper to the
front with copper nails or round-headed screws.

If good glue can be had, the three pieces of wood may be glued together.
If the glue cannot be relied upon, put in two flat-headed screws from
the back.

The clock can be finished with a dark stain and
waxed, or, as it is small, it can be easily fumed. If
stain is used, stain and wax the pieces before putting
[Pg 55]
them together. The fuming process is more
easily done after the clock is assembled. Secure a
bucket, a peck measure, or any receptacle large
enough, when inverted, to put over the clock. Pour
about 2 oz. of strong ammonia into a saucer or small
pan. Support the clock above the saucer and cover
both with the inverted bucket. Allow it to stand for
three or four days—the longer it stands the darker
the fumed finish will be. Finish with two coats of
bleached wax. Do not use ordinary uncolored wax,
as it will show in the unfilled pores of the wood. The
works of the clock should not be in the frame while
fuming.

A MUSIC STAND

The attractive and useful piece of mission furniture
shown in the accompanying illustration is made of
quarter-sawed oak. Considerable labor can be saved
in its construction if the stock is ordered from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The stock
list consists of the following pieces:

  • 1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 20 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 14-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 shelf, 3/4 by 16 by 15 in., S-1-S.
  • 4 legs, 3/4 by 5 by 41 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lower crosspieces, 3/4 by 3 by 9 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 upper crosspieces, 3/4 by 2 by 9 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 end slats, 5/8 by 2 by 34 in., S-2-S.
  • 20 R.H. screws, 2 in. long.

The four shelves and the top are so wide that it will
be necessary to make them from two or more pieces
glued together. The top should have a 1/4-in. bevel
cut around the upper edge as shown in the drawing.



Details of Music Stand

[Pg 57]



Music Stand Complete

The curve of the legs can be cut with a bracket saw
[Pg 56]
or a drawknife, care being taken to get the edges
square and smooth. The four crosspieces are fastened
to the legs by means of tenons and mortises. The end
slats are joined to the crosspieces in the same manner.
The legs can be assembled in pairs with the slats and
crosspieces in place. They can be glued in this position,
and when dry they should be carefully gone
[Pg 58]

over with fine sandpaper to remove all rough spots.
The shelves can now be put in place. They should
be fastened to the legs with round-headed screws.
The top is also fastened on with screws. When applying
the finish, remove the top board and the
shelves and finish them separately. The stand can
be finished in any one of the many mission stains
supplied by the trade for this purpose.

This handsome piece of furniture can be used as a
magazine stand as well as a music stand, if desired,
and, if it is made and finished well, it will prove an
ornament to any home.


MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END
GRAIN OF WOOD



MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN

It is often necessary to fasten one piece of wood to the end of another
by means of screws. Wood being a fibrous material, it can be readily
understood that when a screw having sharp threads is put in the end
grain parallel to these fibers the threads cut them in such a way that,
when an extra strain is put upon the parts, the screw pulls out,
bringing with it the severed fibers. The accompanying sketch shows how
this difficulty may be overcome, and at the same time make the screw
hold firmly. A hole is bored and a dowel, preferably
[Pg 59]
of hardwood, glued in it, the grain at right angles
to that of the piece.

The size of the dowel, and its location, can be determined by the
diameter and the length of the screw. The dowel need not extend all the
way through the piece, but should be put in from the surface where the
grain of the dowel will be least objectionable.

When putting screws in hard wood much labor will be saved by applying
soap to the threads.


A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR

The wall case shown in the accompanying picture
will serve well as a medicine case. Having a paneled
door in which is set a mirror, it serves equally well as
a shaving case. It is best made of some hard wood,
though a soft wood such as pine or yellow poplar will
work up easier and look well finished with three or
four coats of white enamel paint.

There will be needed the following pieces:

  • 2 sides, 5/8 by 6 by 32-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top and 1 bottom, 5/8 by 6 by 18 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top of back, 1/2 by 4 by 16-1/4 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 bottom of back, 1/2 by 3 by 16-1/4 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 shelf, 5/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back, 1/4 by 16 by 21 in., S-2-S.

DOOR

  • 2 stiles, 5/8 by 3 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 top rail, 5/8 by 2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 bottom rail, 5/8 by 4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 backing for door, 3/16 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.

First shape the ends of the two side pieces as shown
in the drawing. Next square the top and bottom
pieces of the case to size, and lay out and cut the tenons
on the ends. Lay out and cut the mortises in the
[Pg 60]
side pieces, also the groove for the shelf, having first
squared the shelf to size. Cut and shape the top and
bottom pieces of the back as shown. Cut the rebates
in the side pieces into which these pieces are to rest
their ends. Cut the rebate for the back. Thoroughly
scrape and sandpaper these parts and assemble them.
Cut and fit the back in place.



Wall Case Details

The door is to be made next. Plan the different
parts of the door so that the edges may be planed to
fit the opening; that is, make the door a good quarter
larger at top and bottom than the opening. In cutting
the rebate the easiest way is to use a rabbeting plane
and cut the full length of the pieces. By using a tenon
[Pg 61]
on the rails in which one shoulder is as much longer
than the other as the rebate is deep there is no resulting
groove showing at the corner.



Case with Mirror Door

The wood should be finished before the glass is set,
at least, it should be filled, if of hard wood, and one
coat of paint put on, if of soft wood which is to be
enameled.[Pg 62]

In setting the glass, place a thin cushion of putty
between the rebate and the glass and another thin
cushion between the glass and the fillet of wood or the
backing which is to protect the back of the glass.

Fit the door, and then put on the hinges and lock.
If desired, the tenons may be made keyed as shown
in the photograph instead of through as shown in the
drawing.

To finish the case, if of oak, apply a coat of light
paste filler, the directions being on the filler can. Next
put on a coat of white shellac. When this has hardened
apply two coats of some good varnish. Allow
time for each coat to harden and rub the first coats
with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with pulverized
pumice and raw linseed oil or crude oil.

If the wood is soft and an enamel white is desired,
the enamel is applied not unlike paint. The directions
will be found on the cans in which the paint is
purchased.

A SIDE CHAIR

A side chair of simple design and construction is
here given. The great difficulty with most chair designs
is that the back is generally designed narrower
than the front, thus necessitating the rails entering
the posts or legs at angles. To the amateur this is
quite confusing. The chair illustrated is the same
in width, both back and front, so that the shoulders
of all the rails are at right angles to the sides. The
back of the chair is straight, thus simplifying the
design still more.
[Pg 63]



Side Chair Complete

Another thing which is confusing to the beginner
in his efforts to lay out the mortises is the irregular
placing of the rails. It will be noted that in this
design the rails of side, front and back are on the
same level.

Plain sawed red oak will be appropriate for this
piece. Have the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered
[Pg 64]
on four sides to size, allowing 1/2 in. extra to the
lengths for squaring up the ends.



Details of Side Chair

There will be needed the following:

  • 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
  • 4 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
  • 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
  • 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in.
  • 1 back, 3/4 by 9-3/4 by 17-1/2 in.
  • 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 16 in.
  • 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.

Begin work by cutting the posts to the lengths indicated
in the drawing. The lower ends should be
chamfered slightly to prevent their splintering from
usage. The top ends are cut to an angle of 45 deg.,
the slope beginning 1/2 in. below the top. Lay out
and cut the mortises. To do this, lay off the measurements
on one of the posts, then place all four
side by side on the bench, with the face marks up.
[Pg 65]
Even the ends with the try-square and then carry
the measurements just made across all of them, using
the try-square. The rails ought to be shouldered on
all four sides. Three-eighths inch is a good thickness
for the tenons. The width may be 1-1/4 in. and
the length 1 in.

Place the rails side by side on the bench with
the joint-edges up and the ends evened. Measure
off the desired length on one of them and carry the
lines across all of them to indicate the location of
the shoulder lines. Separate the pieces and square
these lines entirely around all of the sides of each
piece. With the tenon saw rip and cross cut to these
lines.

The back, it will be noted, is set on a slant to add
comfort. Thoroughly clean all the parts and assemble
them, using good hot glue. Put the back
together first, then the front. After these have dried,
put the side rails in place.

Cut and fit the two cleats—one to the front rail
and one to the rear rail. Keep them even with the
lower edge of the rail so as to form a slight recess
at the top when the slats are in place. This is to
keep the cushion from sliding off. The slats need
not be “let into” the cleats but merely fastened to
their top edges. The cushion may be made of
Spanish roan skin and should be filled with elastic
felt.

In the chair shown, the joints are reinforced by
the addition of lag screws. If the glue is good and
the joints well fitted, these are not necessary.
[Pg 66]

AN ARM CHAIR

The arm chair here described and illustrated is intended
to be one of the set of diners made after the
design of the side chair described on another page.
The same general directions for making the side
chair apply equally to the arm chair.

The stock given in the following list should be
purchased surfaced on four sides and well sandpapered:

  • 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 38 in.
  • 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 26-1/2 in.
  • 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 19-1/2 in.
  • 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 19-1/2 in.
  • 3 slats, 1/2 by 2 by 12-1/2 in.
  • 2 arms, 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 20-1/2 in.
  • 2 brackets, 7/8 by 2-1/4 by 2-1/2 in.
  • 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 19 in.
  • 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 19 in.

Prepare the posts first by cutting them to the
lengths shown in the drawing. In the photograph
the front posts have their tops cut off square and the
arms fastened to them by means of lag screws. A
better way from a mechanical point of view would
be to shoulder the top ends on the four sides, cut
through-mortises in the arms and insert these tenoned
posts into these mortises, pinning the arm to
the post by means of small dowels in the edge of the
post and through the tenon.

The brackets under the arms are to be fastened to
the posts and arms by means of concealed dowels
and glue of good quality.

All of the rails should be tenoned into the posts
thoroughly, even if the lag screw fastenings are used.
If the lag screws are used, the tenons may be what
are known as stubb tenons—tenons of short length.
Good hot glue should be used in either case.
[Pg 67]

The shape of the arms is indicated in the drawing.
They are fastened to the rear posts by means of
dowels and glue.



Arm Chair Complete

The slats, or verticals, of the back should not have
their ends tenoned but should have the mortises in
the rails cut sufficiently large to “let in” the whole
end of each. This is much easier and more likely to
result in a satisfactory fit than to shoulder them.
[Pg 68]
Any unevenness in the lengths of the respective slats
will not affect the fitting of the joints by this latter
method.

The tops of the rear posts in this chair, as in the
side chair, are cut to angles of 45 deg., beginning the
slope at lines marked 1/2 in. from the tops.



Details of Chair

The bottom is made up of 2-in. slats fitted between
the front and back rails and fastened to cleats which
have been previously fastened to the insides of the
front and back rails. Keep these cleats low enough
on the rails so that the top surfaces of the slats
shall rest somewhat below the top edges of the rails.
Cushions, such as the one shown, can be purchased
[Pg 69]
ready made or they can be easily made by the
amateur.

A good finish for this chair and its mates is obtained as follows: Apply
one coat of brown Flemish water stain. This stain in the original
package is very dark in tone and unless an almost black finish is
wanted, it should be lightened by the addition of one-half or two-thirds
water. Apply with a brush or sponge and allow to dry over night. When
dry, sandpaper lightly with fine or worn sandpaper to remove the raised
grain caused by the water of the stain. Put on a very thin coat of
shellac. This is to prevent the “high lights” in close-grained woods
from being discolored by the stain in the filler which is to follow. The
shellac being very thin does not fill the pores of the wood perceptibly.
Next, sand the shellac coat lightly when it has hardened. Apply a coat
of paste filler colored considerably darker than the stain to the tone
desired for the open grain. If the filler is well stirred and properly
applied, one coat ought to be sufficient. If it does not fill the pores
satisfactorily, apply another coat when the first has had time to
harden. Vandyke brown is used to color the filler, if none but natural
color is to be had. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac.
On this apply several coats of wax. The directions for waxing will be
found upon the cans in which the wax comes.

[Pg 70]

A BOOKCASE

This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate
cost by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools. Considerable labor
can be saved by ordering the material from the mill ready cut to size,
dressed and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is
comparatively easy to obtain. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but is more
liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in
pieces as wide as the ones used. For the complete bookcase the following
material will be needed:

  • 1 top, 3/4 by 15 by 31-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
  • 1 top back board, 3/4 by 4 by 30-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
  • 2 sides, 3/4 by 14 by 50 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
  • 1 bottom, 3/4 by 14 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
  • 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 4 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
  • 1 center piece, 3/4 by 2 by 45-3/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
  • 4 door sides, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 45-1/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
  • 4 door ends, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 14 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
  • 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 12-1/2 in., hard wood.
  • 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 7 in., hard wood.
  • 2 bottom cleats, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 13 in., soft wood.
  • 2 top cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-1/2 in., soft wood.
  • 3 shelves, 1/2 by 12 by 28-1/2 in., soft wood.
  • 12 pieces backing, 3/8 by 4 by 29-3/4 in., soft wood.
  • 4 hinges.
  • 2 door handles.

Begin with the sides by cutting them so they will
pair up all right. The front edges are rounded while
the back edges are rabbeted on the inside as deep as
the backing to be used. The bottoms are cut as
shown in the sketch. Holes about 1/2 in. deep should
be bored on the inside at the proper places for the
wooden pegs which hold up the shelves.



Completed Bookcase.

[Pg 71]



Details of Bookcase

The top and bottom boards should have the front
edges rounded and sanded the same as the sides.
[Pg 72]

The top board is sanded on one side only and care
should be taken to get the best side up.

Now cut and fit the top back board. This is fastened
to the top by means of screws. Screw two
cleats to each of the sides as shown and by running
screws through these into the top and bottom boards
the frame is completed.
[Pg 73]

The backing which can be made of some cheap
lumber is now put on. Next put in the center upright
piece between the doors by means of a tenon
and mortise at the top and nail at the bottom. The
front edge should be rounded and the edge and sides
sanded. Cut and fit the bottom rail as shown. It is
fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back
side.

The doors are put together by means of a tenon
and mortise. They should be rabbeted for the lattice
work and the glass. This lattice work can be omitted
and leaded glass put in its place which is very
becoming to this kind of work.

When the case is completed it must be carefully
gone over with sandpaper before any finish is applied.

A mission stain is suitable for work of this kind,
but it can also be finished in “golden oak” which is
done in the following manner: First put on a golden
oak stain and after it has dried for about 2 hours,
apply the filler. Let this dry about 10 minutes then
rub off with an old rag. Then go over the case again
with some very fine sandpaper and after seeing that
all parts are free from dust and dirt the varnish can
be applied. Three coats of varnish will give a beautiful
glossy finish.

A LAMP STAND

A mission table lamp stand for those who use
electric lights is shown in the accompanying illustration.
It is suitable for either the office or the home
and is very simple in design and construction. The
stock should be quarter-sawed oak and it can be
[Pg 74]
ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared
and sanded. The following pieces will be needed:

  • 1 post, 1-1/2 in. sq. by 23 in.
  • 1 arm, 1-/8 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in.
  • 1 block, 3/4 in. thick by 6 in. square.
  • 1 block, 1 in. thick by 9 in. square.


Details of Lamp Stand

Square up the base blocks and fasten them together
with screws as shown in the detail sketch. A
mortise, 1 in. square, is cut in the center of the blocks
for the center post.. Lead weights, covered with felt,
[Pg 75]
should be attached to the bottom, as shown. The
post has a tenon cut on one end to fit the base, and a
mortise cut in the other for the arm. Holes are
bored in the arm from the ends for the wires. They
can be plugged after the wires are in place. A hole
is also bored in the top of the center post to connect
with the holes in the arm for the lead wire.



Electric Lamp Stand Complete

It is best to glue the joints together, although this
is not necessary if the joints are a tight fit. Sandpaper
the parts thoroughly, then stain to match
the other furniture.
[Pg 76]



Extension Dining Table Complete

[Pg 77]

AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE

The accompanying sketch and photograph show a simple design of an
extension dining table of the mission style. It is very easy to
construct and can be built at home by anyone who is at all handy with
tools. It should be made of quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured at
the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following
pieces:

  • 2 top pieces, 1 by 23 by 46 in.
  • 2 extra leaves, 1 by 12 by 46 in.
  • 2 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 44 in.
  • 4 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 22 in.
  • 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 8 by 24 in.
  • 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 6 by 24 in.
  • 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 14 in.
  • 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 5 in.
  • 4 pieces for feet, 1 by 4 by 4 in.
  • 4 pieces moulding, 1 by 1 by 10 in.
  • 1 piece, 1 by 12 by 27 in., birchwood.
  • 2 brackets, 3/4 by 3 by 32 in., birchwood.
  • 2 pieces for slide, 1-3/4 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
  • 4 pieces for slide, 1 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
  • 12 pieces for slide, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., birchwood.

The feet can be made first by squaring up one end of each and beveling
the other as shown in the drawing. The short pieces are fastened to the
long ones by means of long screws and glue. The four square pieces
should be nailed to the outer ends and holes bored in them for the
casters. Prepare the pieces for the posts, and before nailing them
together fasten the feet to them with long screws. Be careful to get
them on square, else the table will not set level when complete. Now
nail and glue the pieces forming the table together and fasten the
moulding at the bottom. This moulding should have mitered corners as
shown in the bottom view. Also fasten the rest piece to the top of the
post, using long screws and glue.

[Pg 78]



Details of Dining Table

The slides can be made next. The pieces are made
[Pg 79]

and fastened together with screws as shown in the enlarged detail view.
This slide, if made with care, is a good one. The center piece should be
firmly fastened to the post rest with long screws. The screws that
fasten into the top should be inserted from below through counter-bored
holes as shown.

Miter the rails at the corners and glue them to the top. Blocks can be
used on the inside if desired, which will make a much stronger
construction. Screw the two brackets to the top as shown. These help to
support the table when it is extended.

When complete the table should be carefully gone over with fine
sandpaper, and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the
desired color. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied
by the trade for this purpose.

AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST

This cedar chest for storing unused bedding or
furs is not a difficult thing to make and when made,
the hard oak binding takes the wear and protects
the softer cedar so that the chest ought to serve several
generations. Order the stock as follows:

CEDAR

  • 2 top and bottom pieces, 7/8 by 16-1/2 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 sides, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 ends, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 14-3/4 in., S-2-S.

OAK

  • 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.

[Pg 80]



Details of Cedar Chest

Specify thoroughly seasoned Tennessee red cedar
[Pg 81]

and plain sawed white oak and have the different
pieces mill-planed and sandpapered as indicated in
the stock-bill. This bill allows 1/2 in. extra on the
length and the width of each piece for “squaring up”
of all pieces except those marked to be surfaced on
four sides.

Begin by squaring the sides and ends to size.
Probably the best joint for the corners is the dovetail.
If the worker is not experienced in woodworking,
some of the more simple joints will do. It will
be noted that the drawing and stock-bill call for the
simplest form of joint, that in which the sides of the
chest lap over the end. For the dovetail joint it will
be necessary to add 2 in. more to the length of the
end pieces, making them 16-3/4 in. each in the rough.

Having got the sides and ends ready, fasten them
together. The perspective shows the sides fastened
to the ends with ornamental headed nails. Common
nails are first used, being equally spaced, and
the ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as
to cover their heads.

Next square the bottom and nail it to the parts
just assembled. Square the top to the same size.

The base stuff is squared on one edge only. The
second edge—the upper one—is to be beveled or
sloped 1/8 in. to facilitate dusting and for appearance
sake. Fit these base pieces to place, mitering the
joints. Before fastening the parts to the chest
proper, gauge a line 3/4 in. from the lower edge and
to a point 4-1/2 in. from each end, cut out to this line
and shape the base as shown in the drawing. Use
finishing nails for fastening the base to the chest.
The heads should be “set” so they may be covered
later with a putty colored to match the finish.
[Pg 82]

In a similar manner plane up, cut and fit the
back and hinge rails. These rails should be kept
a “scant” 1/8 in. below the top edges of the chest
proper. The overhang of the lid fits down over in
such a way as to form a dust-proof joint between
lid and chest proper.

The overhang of the lid of 1 in. by 1-in. stock
may next be mitered, fitted and nailed to the lid.
Thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so treated and
finish as follows: Put on all the oak pieces, two
coats of natural paste filler. This is best done before
they are fastened in place. Directions will be
found on the cans in which the filler is kept.

The red of the cedar may be heightened by applying
a mahogany stain made of Bismark brown
aniline and boiling water, in the proportion of 3 qt.
of water to 1 oz. of aniline. If applied hot the stain
will enter the wood better. When dry, sandpaper
lightly with No. 00 paper, both this and the oak-filled
pieces.

Fasten the oak pieces in place and give the whole
exterior a very thin coat of shellac. After this
has hardened, apply two coats of wax. Wax comes
in paste form and is to be applied with a cloth
very sparingly. Allow it to stand five or ten minutes
then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish.
The first coat is allowed to stand 24 hours before
the second is applied in a similar manner.

Another finish, known as an egg-shell gloss shellac
finish, is obtained by omitting the wax and instead
applying from two to five more coats of
shellac. Allow each coat 24 hours in which to
harden, and rub each hardened coat to a smooth

[Pg 83]
finish, using curled hair, or fine steel wool, or fine
oiled sandpaper, before applying the next.



Cedar Chest Complete

The metal reinforcements for the corners can be
bought at a hardware store, as can the lock, hinges,
and handles. These parts are applied in the usual
manner—butt hinges being used.

If well made, the chest is practically airtight.
The interior is all of red cedar, while the effect of
the exterior in combining the light oak and the
red cedar is striking.
[Pg 84]

A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES

In the construction of mission furniture where
mortise joints are mostly used, those who cannot
have access to a mortising machine will find the
following method of great assistance in obtaining a
true mortise, which is necessary in work of this
kind.



Boring Holes for Tenons

Take a block of wood, A, the exact thickness of the piece B to be
mortised, and with an auger bore a hole, the same size as the width of
the mortise to be made, exactly parallel to the sides of the block. This
can best be done on a drill press or a wood boring machine. If no
machine is available, great care should be taken in boring by hand, to
get the hole as nearly true as possible. Then nail a cleat, C, on the
side of the block, A, and let it extend down on piece B. Use a clamp to
hold the block in place while boring out the mortise. By changing the
position of the block and boring a number of holes, any length of
mortise can be made. The holes should afterwards be squared up with a
chisel.[Pg 85]

A DRESSER FOR CHILD’S PLAYROOM

This dresser can be made of two kinds of wood as marked on the drawing
or it can be made all of one kind. The original dresser was made of oak
and walnut and was finished natural, the contrast between the light and
dark woods adding much to the value of the piece in the eyes of the
little ones. Have all surfaces that will show well sandpapered at the
mill. The following is a list of the material wanted:

  • 4 oak posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 3 walnut drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 17 in., S-2-S.
  • 6 yellow poplar drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 12 in., S-2-S.
  • 3 yellow poplar backs, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 3 yellow poplar bottoms, 3/8 by 12 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 oak front stretchers, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
  • 4 oak side rails, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 walnut side panels, 1/4 by 11 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 oak drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 6 oak drawer guides, 1/2 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 oak back stretchers, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 oak top, 5/8 by 14 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 3 sq. ft. of 3/8 in. matched yellow pine ceiling for back.

MIRROR SUPPORT

  • 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 oak piece, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 oak pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 walnut bracket piece, 7/8 by 1-1/4 by 5 in., S-2-S.

MIRROR FRAME PARTS

  • 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 10 in., S-4-S.
  • 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 8 in., S-4-S.
  • 1 back, 3/16 by 8 by 10 in., soft wood.
  • 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 8 in.
  • 1 plain mirror glass, 7-1/2 by 9-1/2 in.

[Pg 86]



Details of Dresser

Begin by planing the four posts to length. The
lower ends should be slightly beveled to prevent their
slivering. Cut the mortises for the tenons that are
on the ends of the side rails. These rails are to be 7/8
by 2 in. and the tenons should be 3/8 by 1-1/4 in. wide
by 3/4 in. long. The posts should be rabbeted down
[Pg 87]

to their middles to a depth of 3/8 in. so as to receive
the 1/4-in. end panels. The end rails should be cut to
length and their tenons worked after one edge of each
has been rabbeted as were the posts.



Dresser Complete

[Pg 88]

Having squared the panels to size, put the two ends
of the dresser together with glue. Next make the four
frames which are to carry the drawers. They should
measure from outside to outside, in length 17-1/2 in.;
in width, 12-1/2 in. It is intended that the short pieces
shall be tenoned into the long ones. When these
frames are ready, cut out each corner as indicated
in the cross section drawing. Reduce to size the
drawer guides and fasten them in place. Dowel the
frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated
on the drawing. Put on the back, nailing into
frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated
and fasten the top in place, putting screws into it from
the under side.

The mirror frame and support should next be made.
The drawing shows quite clearly the parts and their
relation to each other. All the slopes are of 45 deg.
Instead of rabbeting the mirror frame, a 1/4 by 3/8-in.
fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess, the
walnut frame and oak fillet making a pretty contrast.
All nail holes are to be filled with putty colored to
match the finish. Wooden pins or round-head
screws are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to
its support and should be placed above center an
inch or so.

The drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner.
It is a good plan to make the grooves 1/16 in.
narrower than the stock is thick to insure a fit, chamfering
the under or back sides of the bottom and back
if necessary. Make the sides of the drawers of such
a length that when the drawer has been pushed in as
far as it will go, the front will be recessed about 1/4 in.
behind the front crosspieces. Groove the inside of the
drawer front 3/16 in. to receive the bottom. The mirror
[Pg 89]
should not be placed until the wood has been
finished.



DRAWER CONSTRUCTION

Finish the wood natural, apply three coats of varnish.
Rub the first two with haircloth or curled hair
and the last with pulverized pumice stone and crude
oil or raw linseed oil. This gives an egg-shell gloss.
For a dull finish, rub the varnish after it has become
bone dry with pulverized pumice stone and water,
using a piece of rubbing felt. Rub until the surface
is smooth and even, and clean with a wet sponge or
chamois skin. If a polished finish is desired, rub first
with pulverized pumice stone and water, then with
rotten stone and water. Finish with a mixture of oil
and a little pulverized rotten stone.
[Pg 90]

CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW

This home-made tool will be a great help in the
construction of mission furniture. With its use,
tenons may be entirely cut with a saw, discarding
the use of a chisel and mallet. The device consists
of a convenient length of straight board, A, Fig.
1, wide enough to cover the widest piece to be
tenoned. A piece of board, B, is fastened to A with
brads or small screws. This board should have a
thickness equal to the piece to be cut from the side
of the tenon. The piece C is fastened to A and B
with small cleats at their upper ends. The space
between B and C should be wide enough for the
blade of a saw to run through easily, and also long
enough to take in the widest part of the saw blade.
The tool and piece to be tenoned are placed in a
vise as shown in Fig. 2. The width of the piece removed
for the tenon may be varied by putting in
pieces of cardboard between the work, E, and the
piece A, Fig. 1.



Sawing Tenons

[Pg 91]

ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP

Electricity and gas are not always accessible in
suburban or country homes and the regular type of a
mission lamp would be of little use. The illustration
shows an ordinary round wick kerosene lamp fitted
out in mission style.



Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp

[Pg 92]



Bronze Shade Holder

A few modifications were made in the design of an
expensive lamp to simplify the construction. The
lamp should have a tall chimney. The dimensions
given in the drawings, and the photograph, will explain
[Pg 93]

themselves. Many of the details can be worked
up by the maker.

The body of the lamp is made of 1/2-in. oak and is
provided with openings as shown. The interior receptacle
is very handy for holding a match box, smoking articles, etc.

A piece of copper band, 1 in. wide, is fastened to
the body with large upholsterers’ tacks, to give it a
finished appearance. The base is 7/8 in. thick and in
order to prevent tilting is provided with four square
feet, 1/4 in. thick. The top piece of the body is 1/2-in.
oak, which is provided with a hole large enough to
receive the bowl of the lamp. If such a lamp is not
at hand, one can be purchased at a very reasonable
price.

The shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded
art glass panels. The different sections of the frames
are fastened together with brass screws and the glass
is held in place by triangular cleats of oak. Be sure
and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering
the glass. The cardboard can be used as a pattern
in cutting the glass, and the glass will then fit without
recutting, which is quite difficult.

The glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color
to harmonize with the finished lamp.

The shade is supported by four brackets cast in
bronze from a wood pattern (dimensions given) and
finished by filing, buffing and lacquering.
[Pg 94]

ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET

The china closet shown in the accompanying
illustration is well proportioned and of pleasing
appearance. It can be made of any one of the
several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed
oak will be found to give the most pleasing
effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill
ready sawed to length, squared and sanded. In this
way much hard labor will be saved. The following
pieces will be needed:

  • 1 top, 1 by 19 by 38 in., S-1-S.
  • 4 posts, 3/4 by 3 by 59 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in., S-1-S.
  • 4 end uprights, 1 by 2 by 48-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 end rails, 1 by 3 by 16 in., S-2-S.
  • 2 lattice rails, 1 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 top board, 3/4 by 3 by 36 in., S-1-S.
  • 4 side door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 47 in., S-2-S.
  • 6 cross rails, 3/4 by 2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 8 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
  • 4 shelves, 5/8 by 16 by 32 in., S-1-S., poplar.
  • 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 55 in., soft wood.
  • 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 28 in., soft wood.
  • 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 14 in., soft wood.


China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides

[Pg 96]

[Pg 95]



Details of China Closet

Having this material on hand, start with the four
posts, as they are all alike. Clamp them together,
being careful to have them of the right length, and
the ends square. Trim the bottom, as shown in the
detail drawing, and then lay out the mortises for
the front and back rails. These rails can now be
laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises in the
posts. The back rails should, in addition, be rabbeted
for the back board as shown. The end rails
are fastened to the posts by means of screws through
1-in. square cleats, fastened on the inside of the posts
as shown in the section A-A. In all cases the screws
[Pg 97]
should be run through the cleats into the framing
so the heads will not show. The end rails should
be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the
glass.

The back board should have the corners rounded
as shown and be fastened to the top board with
screws through from the bottom side. The top
board is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the
same manner.

The doors are put together by means of tenons
and mortises. The frames should be rabbeted on
the inside for the latticework and the glass. Leaded
glass can be used in place of this latticework, if it is
desired. Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied.
These can be purchased at any hardware
store.

The shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit
around the cleats. They rest on small blocks which
are fastened to the cleats, or if desired, small holes
can be drilled and pins used instead.

The back is put on in the usual manner. A mirror
can be put in without much trouble if it is desired.

When putting the frame together, glue should be
used on the joints, as it makes them much stiffer.
Be careful to get the frame together perfectly
square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the
glass. When it is complete, go over the whole carefully
with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots.
Scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as
stain will not take when there is any glue. The
closet can be finished in any one of the many mission
stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
[Pg 98]



Oak Bedstead Complete

[Pg 99]

AN OAK BEDSTEAD

The accompanying sketches show an artistic design
for a mission bed, so simple in construction and
design that most any one that has a few tools and
a knowledge of their use can make it. It is best
made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the
easiest to procure and work up and looks well with
any finish. If the stock is ordered from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much of
the hard labor will be saved.

The following is a list of the material needed:

  • 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 50 in.
  • 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 44 in.
  • 2 end rails, 1 by 6 by 56 in.
  • 2 side rails, 1 by 6 by 78 in.
  • 5 end rails, 1 by 4 by 56 in.
  • 3 end rails, 1 by 2 by 56 in.
  • 8 vertical slats, 3/8 by 6 by 11-1/2 in.
  • 10 vertical slats, 3/8 by 2 by 11-1/2 in.
  • 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 78 in.
  • 5 slats, 3/4 by 3 by 55-1/2 in.
  • 20 blocks, 1 by 1 by 3 in.

Square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the
mortises as per drawing. To do this, lay them side
by side on a flat surface with the ends square and
mark them with a try-square. The tenons on the
end rails are laid out in the same manner as the
posts. Four of the end rails should be marked and
mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the
detail drawing. The tenons on the end rails are
about 1 in. long, while those on the slats can be 3/4 in.
long. Fit all the parts together before gluing to
see that they fit square and tight. After the glue
has been applied clamp them together perfectly
square and set them away to dry. They should dry
at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are
removed.[Pg 100]



Details of Oak Bedstead

[Pg 101]

While the ends are drying, the side rails can be
made. These have a 1-in. square cleat screwed to
the inner side for the slats to rest upon. If springs
are used, five slats will be sufficient. They can be
placed where the springs will rest upon them. After
the position of the slats has been located, nail small
blocks at their sides to hold them in place. For fastening
the side rails to the posts, patent devices can
be purchased at a local hardware store. The posts
will have to be mortised to receive these, and care
should be exercised to get them in the right place.

When the bed is complete go over it carefully and
scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as
the finish will not take where there is any glue. Remove
all rough spots with fine sandpaper; then apply
the stain you like best, which may be any of the
many mission stains supplied by the trade for this
purpose. If this bed is well made and finished, it
will be an ornament to any home.

AN OAK FOOTSTOOL

The footstool shown in the illustration can be made
from any kind of wood, but when it is intended to be
finished in mission style, quarter-sawed oak will produce
the best effect. The material needed will be as
follows:

  • 1 top, 1 by 9-1/2 by 12 in., S-1-S.
  • 2 legs, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., S-2-S.
  • 1 brace, 3/4 by 7 by 9 in., S-1-S.

Order these pieces cut to length, squared and sanded.
A full-sized layout of the front view should be made
to get the correct bevels for the legs and brace. The
design of the legs can be varied to suit the fancy of
[Pg 102]
the maker. For such a design as shown draw one-half
of it on paper; fold on the center line and with scissors
cut both sides of the outline by following the lines
drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and
saw out with a compass or keyhole saw. The sawed
edges should be smoothed and sandpapered.



Details of Footstool

[Pg 103]

The perforation in the top board is made by first
boring holes, then trimming out the edges with a sharp
chisel. Be sure to get the best side of the board up.



Footstool Complete

The legs are fastened to the top and to the braces
with 1-3/4-in. wood screws as shown in the detail drawing.
After the stool is assembled, go over it carefully
with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots before
applying the finish. This finish can be any one of the
many different kinds supplied by the trade for this
purpose. If this stool is well made and finished, it will
be a useful and attractive article.
[Pg 104]



Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving

[Pg 105]

A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING

The multitude of indifferently executed small
articles which followed the introduction of pyrography
is beginning to disappear, people are considering the
art more seriously and applying it to more dignified
uses. Pyro-carving is one of the new methods of
decorating furniture which is both beautiful and
practical, two qualities which do not always go
together.

The library set illustrated consists of a table, 30 by
50 in., with two benches, 14 in. wide of the same length.
The supports are made of selected white pine, which
must be absolutely free from pitch. The pine is soft
enough to work easily with the point and stands wear
much better than basswood. The tops and braces are
made of curly fir, all of the material must be 2-in.
lumber, which dresses to about an inch and a half. All
surfaces, except the faces of the supports, are given a
well-rubbed coat of oil with a little burnt umber, the
stain to be applied directly to the wood without a
filler.

On the outside of the supports the design is drawn
in with pencil, the background is then cut out smoothly
with a chisel to the depth of an eighth of an inch,
leaving the decoration in relief. It is then burned
deeply, the background in straight flat strokes, the outlines
having the effect of a sloping, dark edge. The
shadows are burned in as deeply as possible and the
shading is put in with the flat of the point.

A wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish is most suitable
for this set.[Pg 106]



Grille for an Arch

[Pg 107]

A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH

The accompanying sketch shows something unique
in a grille that adds to the appearance of a home
furnished in mission style. When it is stained and
finished to match the furniture, it gives a consummate
tone that would be difficult to obtain by any other
means.

To get the best results it should be made to blend
with the furniture and the arch in which it is to fit, in
both weight and style. This will depend very much
upon one’s preference, and for this reason full dimensions
are not given. No difficulty will be experienced,
however, by anyone handy with tools, in making it.

The material should be quarter-sawed oak, which
can be secured planed and sanded at the mill. For
the grille order 1 by 1-1/2-in. and 1/2 by 1-1/2-in. stock.
The method of making the bars is shown in the detailed
sketch. The two end bars should be made of
solid pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 in., with two rectangular slots
mortised in each to receive the supports. The supports
should be just the right length to go in the arch.
To erect, slip the end bars on the supports, hold the
grille in place and fasten the bars to the sides of the
arch with screws.

The size of the pedestals and the connecting pieces
will depend upon the size of the arch. These connecting
pieces should be well mortised into the post,
and if you own your own home and intend the pedestals
to become a fixture, they should also be mortised into
the sides of the arch. If not, they may be fastened
to the arch with blind screws. The amount of material
required will depend upon the size of the arch.
[Pg 108]

A LADY’S WRITING DESK

This desk of mission style is a little more complicated
than some of the other pieces of mission
furniture that have been described, but anyone who
has a fair knowledge of tools will not have much
trouble in constructing it in the home workshop if
the plans are carefully followed. Quarter-sawed
oak is the best wood to use, as it is easy to work and
looks best when finished. Order the stock from the
mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following
is a list of the stock needed:

  • 2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 30 in.
  • 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in.
  • 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in.
  • 2 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18 in.
  • 1 stretcher, 3/4 by 8 by 33-1/2 in.
  • 2 end slats, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in.
  • 1 back slat, 3/8 by 8 by 15-1/2 in.
  • 2 back slats, 3/8 by 3 by 15-1/2 in.
  • 1 front drawer rail, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
  • 2 side drawer rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18-1/4 in.
  • 1 drawer front, 3/4 by 6 by 30 in.
  • 1 desk lid, 3/4 by 18 by 31-1/4 in.
  • 1 desk board, 3/4 by 19-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
  • 2 end boards, 3/4 by 19 by 21-1/4 in.
  • 1 top board, 3/4 by 10 by 34 in.
  • 1 top back board, 3/4 by 5 by 31-1/4 in.
  • 1 back board, 3/4 by 30 by 22 in.
  • 2 drawer sides, 1/2 by 6 by 19-1/2 in., S.W.
  • 1 drawer end, 1/2 by 6 by 29 in., S.W.
  • 1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 18 by 29 in., S.W.
  • 2 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S.W.
  • 8 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6-3/4 in., S.W.

Start with the back posts, being sure they are
square and of the right length; place them side by
side and lay out the mortises for the lower rails, the
desk rails and the top back boards, as shown in the
accompanying detail drawing. Lay out the front
posts in the same manner. Cut the tenons on the
ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the posts.
[Pg 109]
Also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end
slats. The end rails have a mortise in them for
the tenons on the ends of the foot boards. Clamp
the ends of the desk together, with the end rails in
place; then fit the side boards. Bore holes through
the posts into the side boards for dowels as shown.
After the dowels are in place the holes can be
plugged.



Details of Writing Desk

Cut and fit the top back board, the bottom rail,
the back board and the stretcher. Cut the top and
desk boards at the back corners to clear the posts.
[Pg 110]
The top board is to be fastened to the side boards
with blind screws. The back board is fastened to
the posts with dowels as shown.



Desk Complete

When all the parts fit square and tight they can
be glued together. The ends of the desk should be
glued up first and left to dry, then the other parts
put in place and glued. When clamping the parts
together see that they fit perfectly square and tight.
[Pg 111]
While the glue is drying the drawer can be made.
The front board is made of oak, but the other parts
may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces
are mortised and glued to the front board, The end
and bottom boards can be nailed together.

The drop lid of the desk is made as shown. Two
or more boards may have to be glued together for
the lid, the desk bottom and the back board. The
lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges,
and it should be so arranged that when closed it will
be even with the sides. Brackets or chains are
fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position
when it is open. Small blocks of wood fastened
to the inner edge of the side boards will prevent it
from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can be
purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place.
Suitable handles for the drawer should also be provided.

When the desk is complete go over it with fine
sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Scrape all
glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take
where there is any glue.

The pigeonholes are made from 3/8-in. stock.
They may be tacked in place after the desk is finished.

The finish can be any one of the many mission
stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If
the desk is well made and finished, it will have a
very neat and attractive appearance.
[Pg 112]

A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL

The stand shown in the accompanying illustration
is for use with a desk telephone. The stool when
not in use, slides on two runners under the stand.
A shelf is provided for the telephone directory, paper,
pencil, etc.



Stand and Stool Complete


Details of Stand and Stool

The joints may be made with dowels, or the mortise
and tenon may be used, as desired. If the latter
is decided upon, allowance must be made on the
[Pg 113]
length of the rails for the tenons. The list given is
for the dowel-made joints. The following stock list
gives the amount of material needed which should
be ordered planed and sanded. This work can be
[Pg 114]
done by hand if the builder has the time and desires
to have an entire home-made article. However,
the list is given for the mill-planed material.

STAND

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 29 in.
  • 2 rails, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in.
  • 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 13 in.
  • 1 rail, 7/8 by 5 by 13 in.
  • 2 runners, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14 in.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 20 in.
  • 1 shelf, 7/8 by 12-7/8 by 13-3/4 in.

STOOL

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 17 in.
  • 4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 6-1/2 in.
  • 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 6-1/2 in.
  • 1 stretcher, 7/8 by 4 by 7-1/4 in.
  • 1 top, 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square.

The exact lengths for the posts are given in the
list. Should the builder desire to square them up,
allowance must be made for this when ordering
stock.

Arrange all the pieces in the position they are to
occupy in the finished stand and stool and number
all the joints. Locate the centers and bore holes for
all the dowels. Assemble the two sides of the table
first. Notch the runners and fasten them to the
posts with flat-head screws. Use hot glue on the
dowel joints if possible.

Cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and
assemble the frame of the table. Use round-head
screws through the rails to hold the shelf. The top
may be fastened in two ways, with screws through
cleats on the inside of the rails and under the top,
or with screws slanting through the upper part of
the rails and into the top as shown. The stool, is
assembled in the same manner as the stand.

The stand and stool should be finished to harmonize
with the furniture and woodwork of the
room in which they are to be used.
[Pg 115]

HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL

Secure a piece of steel about 1/4 in. thick, 1-3/4 in.
wide and 8 in. long. Drill various sized holes
through the steel as shown in Fig. 1, leaving the
edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make
them. Cut off a block of wood the length necessary
for the dowels and split it up into pieces about the
size for the particular dowel to be used. Lay the
steel on something flat, over a hole of some kind,
then start one of the pieces of wood in the proper
size hole for the dowel and drive it through with a
hammer, as shown in Fig. 2. The sharp edges on
the steel will cut the dowel as smooth and round as
if it were turned in a lathe.



Easy Way to Make Dowels

[Pg 116]

A MEDICINE CABINET

This cabinet is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as
this wood is the most easily procured and looks well
when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready
cut to length, squared and sanded. The following
pieces will be needed:

  • 4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in.
  • 4 side rails, 3/4 by 2 by 16 in.
  • 4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 7 in.
  • 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 15 in.
  • 2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 22-3/4 in.
  • 1 door panel, 1/4 by 11-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.
  • 1 back panel, 1/4 by 15-1/2 by 23-1/4 in.
  • 2 end panels, 1/4 by 6-1/2 by 23-1/4 in.
  • 2 pieces for top and bottom, 1/2 by 6-3/4 by 15-3/4 in.


Medicine Cabinet Complete

Square the four posts and bevel the tops as shown.
[Pg 117]



Details of Medicine Cabinet

Cut grooves in them with a plow plane to receive the
1/4-in. panels. The tenons on the rails are cut 1/4 in.
wide and fit into the grooves in the posts the same
as the panels. The rails have grooves cut at the
inside edges for the panels. The front posts do not
have grooves on the inside but have two mortises,
one at each end for the top and bottom rails. The
back has a panel fitted in the same as the ends. See
[Pg 118]
that the pieces fit together perfectly square and
tight, then glue them together and give it time to
dry.

The top and bottom boards are next put in place.
The top is placed in the center of the top rails while
the bottom is put even with the lower edge of the
bottom rails, as shown in the detail drawing. The
door frame is mitered at the corners and rabbeted
on the inner edge to take the panel. A mirror can
be used in place of the panel if desired. Suitable
hinges and a catch, which can be purchased at a
hardware store, should be supplied for the door.

The shelves are of soft wood and are to be arranged
to suit the maker. Before applying a finish,
go over the cabinet with fine sandpaper and remove
all the surplus glue about the joints and the rough
spots, else the finish will not take evenly. The finish
can be any one of the many different kinds supplied
by the trade for this purpose.

Transcriber’s Notes:

  • Added a Table of Contents at head of document.
  • Removed Table of Contents at foot of document.
  • Added a List of Illustrations.
  • Folio 118: “perfectly” was “perfecly”.
  • Folio 4 and 81 “mill-planed” was “millplaned”.
  • Added captions for clarity:
  • Folio 27: “A WASTE PAPER BASKET”.
  • Folio 28: “DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET”.
  • Folio 58: “MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN”.

 

 

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