My Knitting Book.

By
Miss Lambert,
(Authoress of the Hand-book of Needlework.)

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1843.

PRICE EIGHTEEN PENCE.

Richards,
100, St. Martin’s Lane.

PREFACE.[iii]

The examples of knitting, contained in the following pages, have been
selected with the greatest care,—many are original,—and the whole are
so arranged as to render them comprehensible even to a novice in the
art.

Knitting being so often sought, as an evening amusement, both by the
aged and by invalids, a large and distinct type has been adopted,—as
affording an additional facility. The writer feels confident in the
recommendation of “My Knitting Book,” and humbly hopes it may meet with
the same liberal reception that has been accorded to her “Hand-Book of
Needlework.”[iv]

The numerous piracies that have been committed on her last mentioned
work, have been one inducement to publish this little volume; and from
the low price at which it is fixed, nothing, but a very extended
circulation, can ensure her from loss. Some few of the examples have
been selected from the chapter on knitting, in the “Hand-Book.”

3, New Burlington Street,
November 1843.

CONTENTS.[v]

MY KNITTING BOOK.[9]

Explanation of Terms used in Knitting.

To cast on.—The first interlacement of the cotton on the needle.

To cast off.—To knit two stitches, and to pass the first over the
second, and so on to the last stitch, which is to be secured by drawing
the thread through.

To cast over.—To bring the cotton forward round the needle.

To narrow.—To lessen, by knitting two stitches together.

To seam.—To knit a stitch with the cotton before the needle.

To widen.—To increase by making a stitch,[10] bringing the cotton round
the needle, and knitting the same when it occurs.

A turn.—Two rows in the same stitch, backwards and forwards.

To turn.—To change the stitch.

To turn over.—To bring the wool forward over the needle.

A row.—The stitches from one end of the needle to the other.

A round.—A row, when the stitches are on two, three, or more needles.

A plain row.—That composed of simple knitting.

To pearl a row.—To knit with the cotton before the needle.

To rib.—To work alternate rows of plain and pearl knitting.

To bring the thread forward.—To bring the cotton forward so as to
make an open stitch.

A loop stitch.—Made by bringing the cotton[11] before the needle, which,
in knitting the succeeding stitch, will again take its own place.

To slip or pass a stitch.—To change it from one needle to the other
without knitting it.

To fasten on.—The best way to fasten on is to place the two ends
contrariwise, and knit a few stitches with both together. For knitting,
with silk, or fine cotton, a weaver’s knot will be found the best.

To take under.—To pass the cotton from one needle to the other,
without changing its position.

Pearl, seam, and rib-stitch—All signify the same.

N.B. The sizes of the needles are given according to the Standard
Filière.

The following engraving represents the Standard Filière, or knitting
and netting needle gauge, an instrument invented some time
since by the authoress, and now in general use, by[12] which the different
sizes of knitting and netting needles can be ascertained with the
greatest accuracy.

The Standard Filière.

It is necessary, in giving or following directions for knitting, to
caution knitters to observe a medium in their work—not knitting either
too loose or too tight.

[13]Siberian Cuffs.

Nine shades of German wool, used double, will be required.—No. 8
needles.

Cast on sixty-four stitches with the darkest shade;—knit three plain
rows.

Fourth row—bring the wool forward, knit two together.

Repeat these four rows, (which form the pattern), nine times,—taking a
lighter shade of wool each time.

A Knitted Silk Cuff.

Coarse black netting silk.—Four needles, No. 22. Cast on twenty-eight
stitches on each of three needles:—knit two plain rounds.

Third round—bring the silk forward, slip one; knit one; pass the
slipped stitch over it; knit one; pearl one.

Repeat the third round, until the cuff be of the depth required;
then,—knit two plain rounds to correspond with the commencement.

Open Stitch for Cuffs.[14]

With coarse silk.—Four needles, No. 22.

Cast on any even number of stitches, on each of three needles.

First round—knit two together.

Second round—bring the silk forward, knit one.

Third round—plain knitting.

Repeat from the first round.

Very Pretty Cuffs.

Two colours are generally used—say red and white. They are prettiest in
four-thread embroidery fleecy, or German wool.—Two needles No. 16, and
two No. 20, will be required.

Repeat these two red and white stripes, alternately, four times, and
finish with the two stitches together, as at the commencement.[16]

The cuffs, when finished, roll over at the top.

Muffatees with two Colours.

German wool,—three needles, No. 25. The prettiest colours are cerise
and brown;—commencing with the brown. Cast on eighty-eight stitches,
viz.—thirty on each of two needles, and twenty-eight on the
third.—Knit four rounds,—two stitches of each alternately pearl and
plain.

Knit one plain round.

Pearl three rounds.

The above is all with one colour,—the brown.

Take off two stitches without knitting; knit six with the
cerise.—Repeat, alternately, to the end of the round.

The next nine rounds are the same.

Knit one plain round with the brown.

Pearl three rounds.

Commence again with the cerise,—knitting[17] four stitches only at the
beginning of the round;—then take off two stitches, and knit six,
alternately, as before.

These cuffs may be worked to any desired length, finishing off the same
as at the commencement.

Gentlemen’s Muffatees.

Cast on fifty-four stitches, in double German wool.—No. 14 needles.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two
together.—Repeat.

Every row is the same,—the first and last stitches being plain. When
finished they are to be sewn up.

Plain Ribbed Muffatees.

Four needles will be required.

Cast on each of three needles, eighteen or twenty-four stitches,
according to the size desired.

[18]First round—knit three; pearl three;—alternately.

Second and succeeding rounds—repeat the first.

Another Pair of Muffatees.

Three-thread fleecy, or Zephyr wool.—No. 13 needles.

Cast on thirty-six stitches.

Knit twenty plain stitches, and sixteen in double knitting.

When they are sufficiently large, knit or sew them up. The double
knitting comes over the hand, the plain knitting setting tight to the
wrist.

Knitted Cuffs, Shell Pattern.

These may be made either with silk, cotton, or fine wool.—Needles No.
22.

Cast thirty stitches on each of two needles, and forty on a third;—knit
one plain round.

[19]Second round—pearl one; pass the silk back, knit one; pearl one;
bring the silk forward, knit one, by which you make a loop
stitch;—repeat this five times, which, with the loop stitch, will make
thirteen from the last pearled stitch. Commence the pattern again, as at
beginning of round.

Third round—pearl one; knit one; pearl one; slip one; knit one, pass
the slip-stitch over it; knit nine; knit two together.—Repeat to the
end of the round.

Fourth round—same as third, except that there will be only seven
plain stitches to knit.

Fifth round—same as third, with only five plain stitches.

There will now be the same number of stitches on the needles as at the
commencement, viz.—seven for the shell part of the pattern, and three
for the division.

Knit one plain round, except on the three division stitches, which are
to be knitted as before.

[20]Commence again as at second round. When the cuffs are of sufficient
length, knit a plain round to correspond with the beginning.

The prettiest way of knitting these cuffs will be to work the first
pattern in cerise;—the next five in white; the next five, alternately
in cerise and white; then five in white; and finish with one in cerise.

Double Knitted Cuffs.

These cuffs are prettiest in single German wool; two colours are
required,—say claret and white. They will take sixteen skeins of white
wool and eight of claret—No. 13 needles.

Cast on forty-six stitches in claret,—pearl four rows. Pearl one row
white; in the next—bring the wool forward, knit two together:—repeat
these two rows of white, twice,—making altogether six rows. The four
rows of claret in pearl knitting, and the six rows of[21] white, are now to
be repeated, alternately, until six stripes of each are worked. Then,—

Pick up seventy stitches in claret, on the right side, at one of the
narrow ends, and pearl one row. Repeat the six rows of white,—finishing
with the four rows of claret, and cast off.

Repeat the same at the other end of the cuff,—observing that the
knitting of the frill is to be on the wrong side.

Sew up the cuffs, and double them, so as to allow the frill, at the one
end, to appear above that at the other.

A Brioche[A].

The Brioche knitting-stitch is simply—bring the wool forward, slip
one; knit two together.

A Brioche is formed of sixteen straight narrow stripes, and sixteen wide
stripes, the latter [22]gradually decreasing in width towards the top or
centre of the cushion. It may be made in three-thread fleecy, or double
German wool, with ivory or wooden pins, No. 8.

Cast on ninety stitches, in black, for the narrow stripe; knit two
turns;—then, three turns in gold colour, and two turns again in black.
This completes the narrow stripe.

The conical stripe is knitted as follows:—bring the wool forward, knit
two together, twice, and turn; knit these two, and two more of the black
and turn; continue this,—taking each time two more stitches of the
black, until within two stitches of the top, and turn; the wool will now
be at the bottom or wide part of the stripe. Commence again with the
black, as in the former narrow stripe, knitting the two black stitches
at the top. It may be also as well to diminish the narrow stripes by
turning when within two stitches of the top, in the centre row of gold
colour.

[23]By a turn is meant one row and back again.

The colours for the conical stripes may be any two or four colours,
which assort well together; or each may be different. When the last
conical stripe is finished, it is to be knitted to the first narrow
stripe.—The brioche is to be made up with a stiff bottom of mill board,
about eight inches in diameter, covered with cloth. The top is drawn
together, and fastened in the centre with a tuft of soft wool, or a cord
and tassels. It should be stuffed with down or fine combed wool.

Fringe Pattern Knitting.

Cast on any even number of stitches, in German wool—No. 10 needles.

Turn the wool round the needle, bringing it in front again; knit two
together, taken in front.

Every row is the same.

[24]An Opera Cap.

No. 10 needles—Double German wool, or three-thread fleecy.

Cast on eighty stitches,—white.

Pearl one row,—coloured. In the next row,—

Bring the wool before the needle, and knit two stitches together.

The above forms the border.

First division—coloured.

Pearl one row.

Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.

Knit one row.

Knit a fancy row, by bringing the wool forward, and knitting two
stitches together.

[25]Second—white.

Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.

Knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end.

Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.

Knit a fancy row as before.

Third—coloured.

Pearl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.

Knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end.

Knit one row, without decreasing.

Knit the fancy row as before.

Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh—

The third division is to be repeated, alternately with white and
coloured wool.

Eighth—white. Ninth—coloured.

In these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in
each; this is to be done[26] in the row after the pearl,—decreasing one
stitch at each end.

N.B. There should be forty-six stitches left on the needle in the last
row.

Pick up thirty stitches on each side, and make the borders at the sides
and back like that in front.

Make up the cap by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it
all round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbons or
plaited wool, with tassels of the same.

A Sontag, or Cephaline

The border for this cap is worked the same as the preceding,—casting on
one hundred and two stitches;—single German wool;—No. 15 needles.

Knit one row in white, to bring the pearl on the right side. Then,[27]—

With the darkest shade, bring the wool round the needle, pearl two
together; pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

In the next row—bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit
one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Knit forty-two rows in the same manner, taking in one stitch at the end
of almost every row, so that the number of stitches in the last row is
reduced to seventy-two, taking care to keep the pattern regular, and
changing the colour every two rows.

Take up forty stitches, on each side, and knit one row of white round
all the three sides: knit another row to make the pearl, and finish the
border with white and coloured wool, as in the preceding cap. Finish
with ribbons, or cords and tassels.

The border is knitted in white, and the middle shade of whatever colour
is used in the head piece. This is prettiest in five distinct[28] shades of
any colour, with one or two rows of white between each division of
shade.

A Bonnet Cap.

Cast on ninety stitches, in hair-brown German wool, for border.—No. 16
needles.

First, second, and third rows—plain knitting.

Fourth row—bring the wool forward, knit two together. Then,—

Commence with another colour—say white.

Fifth, sixth, and seventh rows—plain knitting.

Eighth row—bring the wool forward, knit two together.

Repeat these last four rows seven times: then the brown border as
before. They form a band of about four inches wide, which is to be drawn
up at the two ends, and strings attached to tie it close to the chin.

Then, cast on forty stitches and commence[29] another band with the brown
border as above,—three rows of the pattern in white, and repeat the
brown border. This is to be sewn or knitted on to the head piece, and
forms the band for the back. A ribbon is to be run through it, to tie it
close to the head.

Double Knitting for Comforters, etc.

Large-sized needles, No. 1, and four-thread fleecy, will be required.

Cast on any even number of stitches.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; pass the wool back, knit
one, turning the wool twice round the needle.—Repeat to the end of the
row.

Every succeeding row is the same.—The stitch knitted in one row, is the
slip-stitch in the next.

Knitted Lace.

Cast on twelve stitches with very fine cotton, or thread.—No. 25
needles.

[30]First row—slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two together; turn the
thread once round the needle, knit two; pearl one; knit one; turn the
thread once round the needle, knit two, taken together at the back.

Second row—slip one; knit one; turn the thread twice round the
needle, knit two; pearl two together; turn the thread once round the
needle, knit one; pearl two together; turn the thread twice round the
needle, pearl two together; knit one.

Third row—slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn the thread
once round the needle, knit two together, taken at the back; knit one;
knit two together; knit three.

Fourth row—slip one; turn the thread once round the needle; pearl
one; knit two together; turn the thread once round the needle, knit
four; pearl two together; turn the thread twice round the needle, pearl
two together; knit one.[31]

Fifth row—slip one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; knit two together;
turn the thread twice round the needle, knit three; pearl two together;
knit one.

Sixth row—slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; slip one;
knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; slip one; knit one, pass the
slip-stitch over it; slip one; knit two; turn the thread once round the
needle, pearl two together; turn the thread once round the needle, pearl
two together; knit one; turn the thread twice round the needle, pearl
two together; knit one.

There should now be twelve stitches on the needle as at the
commencement.—Repeat from the first row.

Knitted Insertion.

Cast on nine stitches in fine cotton; No. 23 needles.

Slip one; knit
two; bring the cotton forward, knit two together; knit one; bring[32] the
cotton forward, knit two together; pearl one.—Repeat.

This may be used for trimming muslin curtains, etc.

Coral Trimming for a Muslin Dress.

Cast on two stitches.—No. 2 needles, rather short.

Turn the wool round the needle, so as to bring it in front again; knit
the two stitches, take together in the front.

Every row is the same.

Barley-corn Stitch.

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, with eight-thread Zephyr fleecy,
or double German wool, and No. 2 needles.

Slip the first stitch, keeping the wool in front of the needle; turn the
wool round the needle, so as to bring it in front again; knit two
together, taken in front. Continue turning[33] the wool round the needle,
and knitting two together, to the end of the row. All the rows are the
same.

The two stitches, which are to be taken together, appear always as if
tied together.

A Muff, in colours of Sable.

Cast on seventy or eighty stitches.

First, second, and third rows—plain knitting.

Fourth row—bring the wool forward, knit two together, taken at the
back.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Repeat these four rows, until the piece be about eighteen inches long,
admitting that the shading comes in correctly.

Two No. 8 needles are required, and double German wool, in four distinct
shades to match the colour of sable. Commence with the lightest
shade,—then the second, third, and darkest, reversing them again to the
lightest.

[34]Another Muff.

Cast on forty-five stitches.—No. 8 needles.

Every row is worked the same, with a slip-stitch at the beginning;—knit
one; pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

It will require a piece of about twenty inches long, to make a moderate
sized muff, which should be lined with gros de Naples; and stuffed with
wool, and a sufficient quantity of horse-hair to retain it in shape.
Cord and tassels to match the colour of the muff, may be sewn at the
ends; or it may be drawn up with ribbons.

Close Stitch for a Waistcoat, &c.

To be knitted in two colours,—say claret and blue.—No. 18 needles.
German wool.

First row—with claret,—knit one; slip one.—Repeat to the end of the
row.

Second row—with claret,—knit one; bring[35] the wool forward, slip one;
pass the wool back, knit one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Third row—with claret,—slip one; knit one.—Repeat to the end of the
row.

Fourth row—with claret,—bring the wool forward, slip one; pass the
wool back, knit one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Fifth and sixth rows—same as first and second,—in blue.

Commence again, as at first row.

Long Sleeves to wear under the Dress.

No. 17 needles, and six-thread embroidery fleecy.

Cast on forty-two stitches very loosely, and alternately knit, and
pearl, three stitches, for twelve turns.

Knit ten turns plain.

Knit thirty-five turns plain,—increasing one stitch at the beginning
and end of each turn.

[36]Knit twenty turns, plain—increasing one stitch every other turn.

Repeat the twelve turns as at the commencement.

THE TWELVE FOLLOWING PATTERNS ARE INTENDED FOR D’OYLEYS, TIDIES, FISH OR
BASKET NAPKINS; THEY ARE TO BE WORKED WITH NO. 14 KNITTING COTTON, AND
NO. 19 NEEDLES.—THEY MAY ALSO BE ADAPTED, WITH A CHANGE OF MATERIAL,
FOR SHAWLS, COUNTERPANES, BAGS, AND MANY OTHER ARTICLES.

I.
Leaf and Trellis Pattern.

Cast on any number of stitches that may be divided by twenty,—twenty
stitches forming each pattern.

First row—pearl knitting.

Second row—knit five;(a) bring the thread forward, knit two together,
three times; bring[37] the thread forward, knit two; knit two together;
knit ten.—Repeat from (a).

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—knit six;(b) bring the thread forward, knit two together,
three times; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two together; knit
five; knit two together; knit two; bring the thread forward, knit
one.—Repeat from (b).

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Sixth row—knit seven;(c) bring the thread forward, knit two together,
three times; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two together; knit
three; knit two together; knit two; bring the thread forward, knit
three.—Repeat from (c).

Seventh row—pearl knitting.

Eighth row—knit eight;(d) bring the thread forward, knit two
together, three times; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two
together; knit one; knit two together; knit two;[38] bring the thread
forward, knit five.—Repeat from (d).

Ninth row—pearl knitting.

Tenth row—knit nine;(e) bring the thread forward, knit two together,
three times; bring the thread forward, knit two; slip one; knit two
together, pass the slipped stitch over them; knit two; bring the thread
forward, knit seven.—Repeat from (e).

Eleventh row—pearl knitting.

Twelfth row—(f) knit five; knit two together; knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, three times; bring the thread
forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two
together.—Repeat from (f).

Thirteenth row—pearl knitting.

Fourteenth row—knit four;(g) knit two together; knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, three times; bring the thread
forward, knit three; bring the thread forward,[39] knit two; knit two
together; knit three.—Repeat from (g).

Fifteenth row—pearl knitting.

Sixteenth row—knit three;(h) knit two together; knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, three times; bring the thread
forward, knit five; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two
together; knit one.—Repeat from (h).

Seventeenth row—pearl knitting.

Eighteenth row—knit two; knit two together;(i) knit two; bring the
thread forward, knit two together, three times; bring the thread
forward, knit seven; bring the thread forward, knit two; slip one; knit
two together, pass the slipped stitch over them.—Repeat from (i).

Nineteenth row—pearl knitting.

Twentieth row—Commence again, as at fourth row.

[40]II.
Rose-leaf Pattern.

This pattern may be worked with any number of stitches that can be
divided by ten, adding three stitches,—one for the symmetry of the
pattern, and two for the borders.

N.B. The termination of each row must be exactly the same (reversed) as
the commencement.

Cast on forty-three stitches; pearl one row.

First row—knit one;(a) pearl one; knit two together; knit two; bring
the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit
two together.—Repeat from (a).

Second row—knit one;(b) knit one; pearl two together; pearl one;
bring the thread forward, turning it round the needle, pearl three; turn
the thread round the needle, pearl one; pearl two together.—Repeat from
(b).

Third row—knit one;(c) pearl one; knit two together; bring the thread
forward, knit[41] five; bring the thread forward, knit two
together.—Repeat from (c).

Fourth row—knit one; pearl two together;(d) bring the thread forward,
turning it round the needle, pearl seven; bring the thread forward,
turning it round the needle, pearl three together.—Repeat from (d).

Fifth row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two
together; repeat, as in first row, from (a).

Sixth row—knit one; pearl two; bring the thread forward, turning it
round the needle, pearl one; pearl two together; repeat, as in second
row, from (b).

Seventh row—knit four; bring the thread forward, knit two together;
repeat, as in third row, from (c).

Eighth row—knit one; pearl four; bring the thread forward, turning it
round the needle, pearl three together; repeat, as in fourth row, from
(d).

[42]Ninth row—Commence again, as at first row.

III.
Point Pattern.

Cast on six stitches for each pattern, and two over for the edge.

First row—Knit two;(a) knit two together; bring the thread forward,
knit one; bring the thread forward, knit two together; knit one.—Repeat
from (a).

Second row—plain knitting.

Third row—knit two together; knit one;(b) bring the thread forward,
knit three; bring the thread forward, knit three together.—Repeat from
(b).—At the end of this row, plain knit the two last stitches.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—knit two;(c) bring the thread forward, knit two together;
knit one; knit two[43] together; bring the thread forward, knit
one.—Repeat from (c).

Sixth row—plain knitting.

Seventh row—knit three; bring the thread forward, knit three
together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.—At the end of this row,
bring the thread forward, knit two.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

IV.
Gothic Pattern.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by ten.—Knit four
plain rows.

Fifth row—knit one; bring the thread forward, knit three;(a) slip
one; knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over them; knit three;
bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit
three.—Repeat from (a).

Sixth row—pearl knitting.

[44]Repeat the fifth and sixth rows three times, and commence again with the
four plain rows.

V.
Scotch Pattern.

Cast on seven stitches for each pattern.

First row—knit two; knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit
one; bring the thread forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Second row—plain knitting.

Third row—knit one;(a) knit two together; bring the thread forward,
knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together.—Repeat from
(a).

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together; knit
one; knit two together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Sixth row—plain knitting.

Seventh row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together;
knit one; knit[45] two together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Eighth row—plain knitting.

Ninth row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together; knit
one; knit two together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Tenth row—plain knitting.

Eleventh row—knit three; bring the thread forward, knit three
together; bring the thread forward, knit one.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—plain knitting.

Thirteenth row—knit three; knit two together; bring the thread
forward, knit three.—Repeat.

Fourteenth row—plain knitting.

Commence again, as at first row.

VI.
Chevron Pattern.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by eight.

[46]First row—pearl knitting.

Second row—knit two together; knit three; bring the thread forward,
knit three.—Repeat.

Repeat these two rows twice,—making in all six rows.

The pattern, as above worked, turns to the left; in the next six rows it
should turn to the right,—this is to be done by bringing the thread
forward before the open stitch of the preceding row.

Commence again as at first row, knitting alternately six rows with the
pattern to the left, and six rows with the pattern to the right.

VII.
Vandyke Pattern.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by ten.

First row—pearl knitting.

Second row—plain knitting.

[47]Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—bring the thread forward, knit two; knit two together;
pearl one; knit two together; knit two; bring the thread forward, knit
one.—Repeat.

Commence again, as at first row.

VIII.
Lace Pattern.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by six.

First row—knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit
one; bring the thread forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Repeat the two first rows, four times,—making altogether ten rows.

Eleventh row—knit two together;(a) bring the thread forward, knit
three; bring the thread forward, knit three in one, (by slipping the
first[48] stitch, knitting the second, and passing the slip-stitch over the
knitted one; then passing the last stitch off the right hand needle on
to the left hand needle, and slipping the second stitch over the first,
and passing the stitch back again on to the right-hand needle).—Repeat
from (a).

Twelfth row—pearl knitting.

Thirteenth row—knit one; bring the thread forward, knit two together;
knit one; knit two together; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.—Finish
this row by bringing the thread forward, and knitting two together, to
prevent its decreasing.

Fourteenth row—pearl knitting.

Repeat the two last rows four times.

Twenty-third row—knit two;(b) bring the thread forward, knit three in
one (as before); bring the thread forward, knit three.—Repeat from (b).

Commence again, as at first row.

[49]IX.
Fish-bone Pattern.

Cast on any uneven number of stitches.

First row—Slip one; knit one;(a) bring the thread forward, slip one,
taking it in front; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit
two.—Repeat from (a).—There will be three plain stitches to knit at
the end of the row.

Second row—Slip one;(b) turn the thread round the needle, and bring
it in front again; pearl two together; pearl two.—Repeat from (b).

X.
German Pattern.

Cast on twenty-one stitches for each pattern.

First row—pearl knitting.

Second row—knit two together; knit three; knit two together; knit
one; bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit
one; knit two together; knit three; knit[50] two together; knit one; bring
the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, knit
two.—Repeat.

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—knit two together; knit one; knit two together; knit one;
bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward, knit
one; knit two together; knit one; knit two together; knit one; bring the
thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two.—Repeat.

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Sixth row—slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over
them; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the thread
forward, knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch
over them; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the
thread forward, knit two.—Repeat.

Seventh row—pearl knitting.

Eighth row—knit two; bring the thread[51] forward, knit one; bring the
thread forward, knit one; knit two together; knit three; knit two
together; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread
forward, knit one; knit two together; knit three; knit two
together—Repeat.

Ninth row—pearl knitting.

Tenth row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the
thread forward, knit one; knit two together; knit one; knit two
together; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the
thread forward, knit one; knit two together; knit one; knit two
together.—Repeat.

Eleventh row—pearl knitting.

Twelfth row—knit two; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the
thread forward, knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the
slip-stitch over them; knit one; bring the thread forward, knit five;
bring the thread forward, knit one; slip one; knit two together,[52] pass
the slip-stitch over them.—Repeat.

Commence again, as at first row.

XI.
Diamond Pattern.

Cast on eight stitches for each pattern.

First row—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread
forward, knit two together; knit three; knit two together.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread
forward, knit two together; knit one; knit two together.—Repeat.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Fifth row—bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the thread
forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over
them.—Repeat.

Sixth row—pearl knitting.

Seventh row—knit two together; knit[53] three; knit two together; bring
the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Eighth row—pearl knitting.

Ninth row—knit two together; knit one; knit two together; bring the
thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward.—Repeat.

Tenth row—pearl knitting.

Eleventh row—bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread
forward, knit two together; knit one; knit two together.—Repeat.

Commence again, from fourth row.

XII.
Shell Pattern.

Cast on twenty-five stitches for each pattern.

First row—knit two together, four times; bring the thread forward,
knit one, eight times; knit two together, four times; pearl
one.—Repeat.

[54]Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—plain knitting.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Commence again, as at first row.

Cable Knitting.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by six, in German
wool—No. 18 needles.

First row—pearl knitting.

Second row—plain knitting.

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Sixth row—plain knitting.

Seventh row—pearl knitting.

Eighth row—Slip three stitches on to a third needle, always keeping
that needle in front; knit the next three stitches; then knit the three
stitches that were slipped on the third[55] needle; take the third needle
again, and slip three more stitches on it, keeping it as before in
front, and knit the next three stitches; then knit the three stitches
slipped on the third needle; continue the same to the end of the row.

Commence again, as at first row.

A Purse.

Cast on one hundred stitches.—No. 20 needles.

First row—slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; bring the
silk forward, knit one; bring the silk forward, pearl one.—Repeat to
the end of the row.

Every succeeding row is the same.

Three skeins of coarse netting silk are required. It forms a strong
gentleman’s purse.

Pretty Stitch for a Purse.

Cast on any even number of stitches, with middle-sized netting
silk.—No. 22 needles.

[56]First row—plain knitting.

Second row—knit two together.—The first and last stitches in this
row are to be knitted plain.

Third row—make one between each stitch, by taking up the silk between
the stitches of the preceding row, except between the two last stitches.

Fourth row—plain knitting.

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Repeat from second row.

A Pence Jug, or Purse.

Five needles, No. 20, with claret and green German wool.

Commence with the handle;—by casting on four stitches in claret, and
knitting, in plain rows backwards and forwards, until it be two inches
long.

Cast on six stitches on the same needle,[57] twenty-six on the second, and
ten on the third: then,—

Knit from the first needle,—knit two; pearl two; alternately.

With the second needle—pearl two; knit two; pearl two; pass the wool
back, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit the
remaining stitches plain, within seven of the end; then,—knit two
together; knit one; pearl two; knit two.

On the next needle—pearl two; knit two; alternately,—repeating three
rounds, until twelve stitches only remain on the second needle, which
finishes the spout.

Knit three rounds,—every two stitches, alternately pearled and plain.

Knit one plain round, and pearl three rounds,—in claret.

[58]Knit one plain round, bringing the wool forward between every two
stitches.

Pearl three rounds. Knit one plain round. In the next two rounds,—bring
the wool forward, knit two together. Then,—

Knit one plain round with claret; pearl three rounds; knit one plain
round; in the next two rounds, bring the wool forward and knit two
together; knit one plain round; pearl three rounds. Divide the stitches
on the four needles,—twelve on each. Then,—

In plain stocking knitting, knit five rounds, decreasing one
alternately, at each end, and in the middle of the needle. Knit three
rounds more, decreasing occasionally.

Divide the stitches on three needles; knit a plain round, and pearl
three rounds without decreasing; finish with plain rounds, decreasing
until only four stitches remain on each needle. Draw up the small
opening and attach the[59] lower end of the handle to the side of the jug.

It may also be worked in silk.

A Strong Purse.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three.—No. 22
needles.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two, pass the
slip-stitch over them.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second row—plain knitting.

Third row—knit two, before the pattern is commenced, that the holes
may come in a diagonal direction.

Fourth and Fifth rows—same as second and third.

Sixth row—same as first.

This purse will take five skeins of second-sized netting silk. It
particularly requires stretching.

[60]A pretty open Stitch for a Purse.

Four skeins of fine purse-silk, and four needles, No. 23, will be
required.

Cast on twenty stitches on each of three needles.

First round—plain knitting.

Second round—bring the silk forward, knit two together.

Repeat the above two rounds four times.

Eleventh round—plain knitting.—Pass the last stitch of this round,
after it is knitted, on to the next needle.

Twelfth round—commence by knitting two together, before bringing the
silk forward;—this change causes the pattern to assume a kind of
vandyke form. Pass the last stitch of each needle of this round, on to
the next needle.

Repeat the two last rounds four times;—commence again as at first
round, working alternately the ten rounds of each pattern, until the[61]
opening of the purse be required to be made; this is to be worked in
rows backwards and forwards, like the first ten rounds, in order to keep
the edges even. The other end is then to be made like the first.

Open Stitch Purse with Beads.

Second-size purse twist, and needles No. 20, are required.

Cast on sixty stitches in netting silk.

First row—knit one; bring the silk forward, knit two together; bring
the silk forward, pass on a bead, placing it behind the needle; knit two
together.—Continue the same to the end of the row, placing a bead every
alternate pattern.

Second row—same as the first, without beads.

Third row—knit one; bring the silk forward, pass on a bead;
then,—continue as in first row.

[62]A Purse in fine Silk.

Cast on three stitches, for each pattern.—No. 23 needles.

First row—bring the silk forward, knit two together; knit
one.—Repeat.

Second row—bring the silk forward, pearl two together; pearl
one.—Repeat.

Herringbone, or Shetland Stitch for a Purse.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by four.—No. 20
needles. About eighty stitches will be required.

First row—bring the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the
slip-stitch over it; knit one; bring the silk forward, pearl
one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Every row is the same.

Three skeins of second-sized silk will be required.

[63]THE FIVE FOLLOWING PATTERNS WILL BE FOUND VERY PRETTY FOR BAGS;—THEY
SHOULD BE KNITTED WITH SECOND-SIZED PURSE TWIST,—NO. 24 NEEDLES.

I.
Diagonal Check Pattern Bag.

Cast on eight stitches for each pattern.

First round—pearl one; bring the silk forward, slip one; knit one,
pass the slip-stitch over it; knit four; pearl one.—Repeat.

Second round—pearl one; knit six; pearl one.—Repeat.

Third round—pearl one; knit one; bring the silk forward, slip one;
knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit three; pearl one.—Repeat.

Fourth round—Repeat the second.

Fifth round—pearl one; knit two; bring the silk forward, slip one;
knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit two; pearl one.—Repeat.

Sixth round—Repeat the second.

[64]Seventh round—pearl one; knit three; bring the silk forward, slip
one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; knit one; pearl
one.—Repeat.

Eighth round—Repeat the second.

Commence again, as at first row.

II.
Lozenge pattern Bag.

Cast on thirteen stitches for each pattern.

First round—pearl two; knit four; bring the silk forward, slip one;
knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; bring the silk
forward, knit four.—Repeat.

Second round—pearl two; knit two; knit two together; bring the silk
forward, knit three; bring the silk forward, knit two together, taken at
the back.—Repeat.

Third round—pearl two; knit one; knit two together; bring the silk
forward, knit[65] five; bring the silk forward, knit two together, taken at
the back; knit one.—Repeat.

Fourth round—pearl two; knit two together; bring the silk forward,
knit three; bring the silk forward, knit two together; knit two; bring
the silk forward, knit two together, taken at the back.—Repeat.

Fifth round—pearl two; knit two; bring the silk forward, knit two
together, taken at the back; knit three; knit two together; bring the
silk forward, knit two.—Repeat.

Sixth round—pearl two; knit three; bring the silk forward, knit two
together, taken at the back; knit one; knit two together; bring the silk
forward, knit three.—Repeat.

Commence again, as at first row.

III.
Hem-stitch Pattern Bag.

Cast on thirteen stitches for each pattern.

First round—knit two; bring the silk forward,[66] knit two together;
knit one; bring the silk forward, knit two together; pearl one; bring
the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it;
pearl three.—Repeat.

Second round—knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit one;
knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit two; pearl two; bring
the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip stitch over it;
pearl two.—Repeat.

Third round—knit two; bring the silk forward, knit two together; knit
one; bring the silk forward, knit two together; pearl three; bring the
silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch
over it; pearl one.—Repeat.

Fourth round—knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit one;
knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit two; pearl four; bring
the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over
it.—Repeat.

Fifth round—knit two; bring the silk forward, knit two together; knit
one; bring the[67] silk forward, knit two together; pearl six.—Repeat.

Sixth round—knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit one; knit
two together; bring the silk forward, knit two; pearl one; bring the
silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it; pearl
three.—Repeat.

Seventh round—knit two; bring the silk forward, knit two together;
knit one; bring the silk forward, knit two together; pearl two; bring
the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it;
pearl two.—Repeat.

Eighth round—knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit one;
knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit two; pearl three; bring
the silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it;
pearl one.—Repeat.

Ninth round—knit two; bring the silk forward, knit two together; knit
one; bring the silk forward, knit two together; pearl[68] four; bring the
silk forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip-stitch over it.—Repeat.

Tenth round—knit two together; bring the silk forward, knit one; knit
two together; bring the silk forward, knit two; pearl six.—Repeat.

Commence again, as at first row.

IV.
Spider Pattern Bag.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by six.

First round—bring the silk forward, slip one; knit two together, pass
the slip-stitch over them; bring the silk forward, knit three.—Repeat.

Second round—plain knitting.

Third round—bring the silk forward, knit two together, twice; knit
two.—Repeat.

Fourth round—plain knitting.

Fifth round—bring the silk forward, knit[69] three; bring the silk
forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over
them.—Repeat.

Commence again, as at first round.

V.
Stripe Pattern Bag.

Cast on six stitches for each pattern.

First round—turn the silk round the needle, pearl three; bring the
silk forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over
them.—Repeat.

Second, Third, and Fourth rounds—alternately pearl three and knit
three.

Commence again, as at first round.

A Bag, with Black or Garnet Beads.

No. 20 needles, eight skeins of netting silk, and four bunches of beads,
including those for the fringe, will be required.

Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of[70] claret netting silk, and
cast on eighty-eight stitches.

First and second rows—plain knitting, without beads.

Third row—slip one; knit one with a bead; knit one.—Repeat the same,
alternately, to the end of the row.

Repeat from first row, eighty-four times. Observe at the commencement of
every row to make a slip-stitch.

Join up the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finish with
two bars and a gold chain. A fringe of the garnet beads, with gold
points, is the prettiest trimming. It should have a stiff lining.

Knitted Fringe.

This may be made of any sized wool or cotton, according to the purpose
for which it is required; it may also be spaced with two or[71] more
colours, working alternately six rows in each.

Cast on eight stitches.

Knit two; bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit one; bring the
wool forward, knit two together; knit one.

When a sufficient number of rows are knitted to form the length of
fringe desired,—

Cast off five stitches, leaving three to unravel for the fringe.

With four-thread fleecy, No. 10 needles may be used.

Vandyke Border.

This border is generally knitted in cotton, and may be used for muslin
curtains, for knitted or netted fish napkins, and for “tidies” for the
backs of chairs, or ends of sofas.

Cast on seven stitches, on No. 17 needles.

First and second rows—plain knitting.

Third row—slip one; knit two; turn over,[72] knit two together; turn
over twice, knit two together.

Fourth row—bring the thread forward, knit two; pearl one; knit two;
turn over, knit two together; knit one.

Fifth row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit
four.

Sixth row—knit six; turn over, knit two together; knit one.

Seventh row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; turn
over twice, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together.

Eighth row—knit two; pearl one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn
over, knit two together; knit one.

Ninth row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; turn over
twice, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together; turn over
twice, knit two together.

Tenth row—knit two; pearl one; knit two;[73] pearl one; knit two; pearl
one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit one.

Eleventh row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit
nine.

Twelfth row—cast off all but seven; knit four; turn over, knit two
together; knit one.

This finishes the first vandyke.—Commence again, as at third row.

A warm Half-square Shawl.

Four-thread fleecy, or eight-thread Zephyr fleecy, of two colours, say
rose and white.—No. 8 needles.

Cast on one stitch, rose colour, and increase at the beginning of every
other row, until there are ten stitches on the needle. In the next
row—knit seven stitches for the border, which is throughout in plain
knitting; join on the white wool, and pearl three, increasing on the
last stitch.

In the next row—bring the wool forward,[74] slip one; knit two, pass the
slipped stitch over them; knit the remaining white stitch plain; knit
the seven stitches for the border, twisting the two colours in the
changing of them.

In the next row—knit the seven stitches for the border; pearl the
white, increasing at the end as before.

Repeat the two last rows, which comprise the whole pattern, until the
shawl is of the required size, and finish with the plain knitted border,
to correspond with the other side.

N.B. In the fancy row of the white, when uneven stitches occur at the
end of the row, they are to be knitted plain.

A warm Double Knitted Scarf, in Two Colours.

Cast on thirty-six stitches in blue six-thread fleecy.—No. 2 needles.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; pass the wool back, knit
one, turning the wool[75] twice round the needle.—Repeat to the end of the
row.

Each succeeding row is the same, observing that the knit-stitch always
comes over the slip-stitch.

It will require seven rows of blue, seven of white, seven of blue,
thirty-eight of white, seven of blue, seven of white, and seven of blue.

Cast off and draw up the ends. Finish with blue and white tassels.

A Border for a Shawl or Quilt.

This border should be knitted separate, with the same sized needles and
wool as the shawl or quilt, and afterwards sewn on.

Cast on any even number of stitches.

First row—Bring the wool forward, knit two together.

Second row—plain knitting.

Repeat these two rows alternately.

[76]Raised Knitting for a Shawl.

Two No. 19 and one No. 13 needles should be used.

Cast on any even number of stitches, that may be required, with German
wool.

First row—with the small needle, alternately make one stitch, and
knit two stitches together.

Second row—plain knitting, with large needle.

Third row—plain knitting, with small needle.

Fourth row—pearl knitting, with small needle.

Repeat, from the first row.

This kind of knitting is also well adapted for hoods, muffs, cuffs, etc.
It is very pretty for a shawl in stripes,—knitting three patterns
alternately of each colour. For a shawl, one yard and a half square,
about three hundred and sixty stitches would be required.

[77]A Russian Shawl, in Brioche Stitch.

German wool.—No. 9 needles.

For a shawl one yard and a half square, about three hundred and sixty
stitches will be required.—Five shades each, of two different colours,
turned back, with the lightest in the centre, knitting two rows of each
shade, look very well.—The following are good colours,—scarlet and
stone colour,—blue and brown,—lilac and red brown,—lilac and white.

The Brioche-stitch is simply—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two
together.

A light Stitch for a Shawl.

Three-thread fleecy.—No. 10 needles.

Cast on any even number of stitches.—Bring the wool forward, knit two
together, alternately, to the end of the row. Every row is the same.

[78]Star Pattern Shawl, in Two Colours.

Cast on four stitches in blue Zephyr wool, or four-thread fleecy.—No. 6
needles.

First row—bring the wool forward, knit one,—(these two stitches form
the increase, and therefore are not to be repeated); bring the wool
forward, slip one; knit two, pass the slip-stitch over them.—Repeat the
same to the end of the row.

Second row—pearl knitting in claret.

Third row—the same as first,—in blue.

Fourth row—the same as second,—in claret.

Repeat these rows alternately, in blue and claret, until there are one
hundred and eighty stitches on the needle; cast off, and finish with a
netted fringe.

As the increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and
others two knitted stitches, at their commencement.

[79]Barège Knitting for Shawls.

Commence with any number of stitches that may be divided by three.—No.
4 needles, finest Lady Betty’s wool.—Knit one plain row.

Second row—bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool
forward, knit three together, taking them off at the back.

Third row—pearl knitting.

Fourth row—bring the wool forward, knit three together, taking them
off at the back; bring the wool forward, knit three.

Fifth row—pearl knitting.

Repeat from the second row.

When a pattern, in one or more colours, is to be introduced, break off
the ground colour, and fasten on the colour next to be used, in the
following manner.—Having made a slip knot in the end of the wool, pass
it on the needle in the left hand: twist the end of the coloured wool
and that of the ground, together,—knit,[80] in plain knitting, the
stitches required for the pattern, then fasten off, by making a loop,
and commence again with the ground colour,—fastening on again as above.
Any number of colours may thus be introduced, to form flowers or other
patterns, which, however, are always to be done in plain knitting.

A Shetland Knitted Scarf.

Commence with the pattern for the border, by casting on one hundred
stitches for the width of the scarf.—No. 7 needles, and four-thread
embroidery, or Lady Betty’s wool.

First row—knit two stitches together, four times; bring the wool
forward, knit one, eight times; knit two stitches together, four times;
pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—plain knitting.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

[81]Repeat from the first row, until the pattern be about fourteen inches
deep. Commence the centre as follows:—working one row of pearl
knitting, before the pattern commences.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip
stitch over it; knit one; pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second and following rows—repeat the first,—every row being alike.

If the wool be split, it exactly imitates the Shetland wool. In
splitting, the wool will frequently break; but this is not important, as
by laying the ends contrariwise, and twisting them together, a few
stitches may be so knit, that the joins are not perceptible.

Both ends of the scarf are to be made alike, by reversing the knitting
of the border. They may be finished with a tied, knitted, or netted
fringe, of the same wool, without splitting, or of fine German wool.

[82]Shetland Pattern for a Shawl.

This should be worked in Lady Betty’s wool, or four-thread embroidery
fleecy, with No. 6 or 8 needles.

Cast on any number of stitches that may be divided by six.

First row—bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward,
knit one;—slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them;
knit one.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward,
slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Fifth row—knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch
over them; knit one; bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool
forward.

Sixth row—pearl knitting.

[83]Seventh row—slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over
them; bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward.

Eighth row—pearl knitting.

N.B. There are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of each
row, to form an edge.

Other Patterns for Shawls.

With fine Shetland, or Lady Betty’s wool, and No. 10 needles, most
beautiful shawls may be knitted from the Leaf and Trellis Pattern (page
36), Point Pattern (page 42), Scotch Pattern (page 44), or Lace Pattern
(page 47).

Double Diamond Stitch for a Quilt.

This is prettiest in stripes of about five inches in width, in any two
colours.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three, allowing
two over, for a stitch at each end of the row.

[84]First row—plain knitting.

Second row—slip one;(a) bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two
together.—Repeat from (a).—Plain knit the last stitch.

Third row—slip one; knit one; the next stitch is a double stitch
(that is,—a stitch and a loop)—knit the stitch and slip the
loop;—continue to knit the stitch and slip the loop, to the end of the
row.

Fourth row—commence again, as at second row.

In every other second row, there will be a double stitch after the
first one,—this is to be knitted without bringing the wool forward. All
the other stitches are to be knitted the same as before.

N.B. The last stitch of every row is to be knitted plain.

A Quilt.

This may be knitted as a Baby’s Quilt, or it[85] may be done in small
squares for a large Quilt.—Eight-thread Zephyr fleecy.—No. 6 needles.

Cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three,—for a
square of six inches, say forty-five; for a Baby’s Quilt, two hundred
and thirty-one.

First row—slip one; knit two, taken together in the front;(a) turn
the wool round the needle, and bring it again in front; slip one; knit
two together.—Repeat from (a).

Every row is alike.

N.B. The two last stitches at the end of the row are to be—the first
pearled,—the second knitted.

A light and warm Counterpane.

Six-thread fleecy in two colours—say blue and white; or, what is
preferable, German quilt wool—Needles No. 2, pointed at both ends.

Cast on any number of stitches in blue.

[86]First row—plain knitting, turning the wool twice round the needle.

Second row—join on the white wool, knit one; knit two together,
turning the wool twice round the needle;—continue knitting two
together, and turning the wool twice round the needle, to the end of the
row, but plain knit the last stitch.

Third row—commence at the other end of the needle; knit two stitches
taken together in front, twisting the wool twice round the needle.

Fourth row—white,—knit one; knit two together, turning the wool
twice round the needle; knit one.

Fifth row—commence again as at third row.

Cross Stitch Pattern for a Quilt.

Two colours,—say gold colour and white.—No. 3 needles, pointed at both
ends.—Cast on any number of stitches.

[87]First row—white,—knit one plain stitch, turning the wool twice round
the needle.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second row—gold colour,—joining on the colour where the last row of
white commenced;—knit one plain stitch, turning the wool once round the
needle; knit the long stitch and the one that was knitted in the last
row together, turning the wool twice round the needle.—Repeat to the
end of the row,—when one stitch will be left, which is to be knitted
the same as the plain stitch at the beginning of the row.

Third row—white,—knit two together, taken in the front, turning the
wool twice round the needle.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Fourth row—gold colour,—the same as the third,—knitting one plain
stitch at the commencement of the row, and one plain stitch at the end
of the row, twisting the wool once round the needle.

Fifth row—white,—knit two together,[88] twisting the wool twice round
the needle.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Sixth row—Commence again, as at second row.

It may be as well to remark, that two rows are knitted at the back, and
two at the front.

Another Quilt.

This should be knitted in stripes of six inches in width.—Cast on any
number of stitches that may be divided by three;—German quilt
wool.—No. 1 needles.

First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two, pass the
slip-stitch over them.—Repeat.

Second row—pearl knitting.

Third row—knit two, before the pattern is commenced, that the holes
may come in a diagonal direction.

Fourth row—pearl knitting.

Fifth row—same as third.

[89]A Quilt, or Couvre-Pied, in squares.

This may be worked with Zephyr fleecy,—No. 9 needles, each piece being
about three and a half inches square. Every square is worked in two
colours,—as blue and white; lilac and white; gold colour and white;
green and white; etc. These pieces are afterwards to be joined together,
arranging them, according to their several colours. Each square,
however, if preferred, may be worked the same. The following directions
are for a square in green and white:—

First row—bring the wool forward, knit one,—in green. Work five
more rows, in the same manner, when there should be seven stitches on
the needle.

Seventh row—bring the wool forward, knit two,—in green; join on the
white,—knit three;—join on another length of green,—knit two.

[90]Eighth row—bring the green wool forward, knit two; pearl three,
white; knit three, green.

Ninth, and Tenth rows—knit to the end of each row, with green,
increasing at the beginning, as before.

Eleventh row—bring the wool forward, knit two, green; knit seven,
white; knit two, green.

Twelfth row—bring the wool forward, knit two, green; pearl seven,
white; knit three, green.

Thirteenth, and Fourteenth rows—knit to the end of each row, with
green, increasing, as before.

Fifteenth row—bring the wool forward, knit two, green; knit eleven,
white; knit two, green.

Sixteenth row—bring the wool forward, knit two, green; pearl eleven,
white; knit three, green.

Seventeenth, and Eighteenth rows—same as thirteenth and
fourteenth.—There should now be nineteen stitches on the needle,—one[91]
half of the square being completed. The decreasing then commences as
follows:—

Nineteenth row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; knit
eleven, white; knit four green.

Twentieth row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; pearl
eleven, white; knit three, green.

Twenty-first, and twenty-second rows—green—decreasing at the
beginning of each row.

Twenty-third row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; knit
seven, white; knit four, green.

Twenty-fourth row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; pearl
seven, white; knit three, green.

Twenty-fifth, and twenty-sixth rows—green,—decreasing, as before.

Twenty-seventh row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; knit
three, white; knit four, green.

[92]Twenty-eighth row—slip one, knit two together, knit one, green; pearl
three, white; knit three, green.

The white is now done with. The square is to be finished with plain rows
of green,—decreasing, at the commencement of each.

A Cover for an Air Pillow.

Cast eighty stitches on each of three needles, No. 9.—Three-thread
fleecy.

First round—bring the wool forward, knit one.—Repeat.

Second round—slip one; knit one, pass the slip stitch over
it.—Repeat.

Repeat the first and second rounds, alternately.

A Baby’s Hood.

Four-thread Lady Betty’s wool,—pink and white may be used. Eight
needles will be[93] required, viz. four No. 25, two No. 18, and two, each
one inch in circumference.

Cast on eighty-two stitches, with pink, No. 18 needles,—knit four plain
rows.

Repeat the last four rows, six times.—There will now be thirty-six rows
from the commencement.

Cast sixteen more stitches on the same needle, to form the piece at the
back.—Repeat six more rows of the pattern.—Knit two plain rows in
pink;—then, divide the stitches on three No. 25 needles, to form a
round,—as a commencement for the crown.

Knit three plain rounds.

Fourth round—bring the wool forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

[94]Fifth round—knit two together; knit twelve.—Repeat.

Sixth round—knit two together; knit eleven.—Repeat.

Seventh round—knit two together; knit ten.—Repeat.

Eighth round—plain knitting.

Ninth round—bring the wool forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Tenth round—knit nine; knit two together.—Repeat.

Eleventh round—knit eight; knit two together.—Repeat.

Twelfth round—knit seven; knit two together.—Repeat.

Thirteenth round—plain knitting.

Fourteenth round—bring the wool forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Fifteenth round—knit two together; knit eight.—Repeat.

[95]Sixteenth round—knit two together; knit seven.—Repeat.

Seventeenth round—knit two together; knit six.—Repeat.

Eighteenth round—plain knitting.

Nineteenth round—bring the wool forward, knit two together.—Repeat.

Twentieth round—knit eight; knit two together.—Repeat.

Twenty-first round—knit seven; knit two together.—Repeat.

Twenty-second round—knit six; knit two together.—Repeat.

Twenty-third round—plain knitting.

Twenty-fourth round—bring the wool forward, knit two
together.—Repeat.

Twenty-fifth round—knit two together; knit five.—Repeat.

Twenty-sixth round—knit two together; knit four.—Repeat.

[96]Twenty-seventh round—knit two together; knit three.—Repeat.

Twenty-eighth round—plain knitting.

The crown is now finished; it is to be drawn up with a needle and wool.

The opening at the back must be sewn up; and a band, corresponding with
the plain knitting in front, is to be formed by raising fifty-six
stitches in pink, and knitting three plain rows, with the No. 18
needles. Then, with white, cast sixteen stitches on the same needle, and
knit seventy-two stitches; cast on sixteen stitches, and knit three rows
of eighty-eight stitches. In the next row,—bring the wool forward, knit
two together. Knit six plain rows.

With the large needles, form the ruff, by knitting two rows in white,
and two in pink; then, work twenty-two rows—knitting four rows in
white, and two in pink, alternately. Cast off, and sew it, so as to form
a very loose double ruff round the throat.

[97]For the front of the hood, raise eighty-two stitches, and, with the No.
18 needles, knit one plain row. Then, with the large needles,—knit two
plain rows in white; two in pink; and four in white. Cast off.—This,
when sewn double, finishes the borders of the hood. It is to be drawn,
with ribbon, at the back and front.

A Baby’s Sock.

Cast on twenty-eight stitches in pink German wool.—No. 19 needles.

Knit six turns, increasing a stitch at each row, to form the toe and
heel.

Knit six more turns, increasing a stitch at one end only, for the toe.

Cast off thirty stitches on another needle;—knit the remaining sixteen
stitches, for eighteen turns, and cast them off on another needle.

With white,—pick up the thirty pink stitches;—knit[98] three plain
rows;—in the next row, bring the wool forward, knit two together.

Knit three plain rows; leave sixteen stitches on the needle, and repeat
the pattern in white, across the instep, seven times, which is
afterwards to be sewn to the pink knitting for the toe.

Cast on sixteen stitches in white,—to correspond with the other side.

Knit two plain rows;—in the next, bring the wool forward, knit two
together,—the whole length of the row;—knit one plain row in pink,
taking up the stitches that were cast off for the toe. This side of the
shoe is to be made to correspond with the other, by decreasing instead
of increasing.—The shoe and the white in the instep will now be
finished.

Pick up the stitches both of the shoe and instep;—knit three plain
turns. Take a larger needle,—bring the wool forward, knit two together,
forming the holes to pass the ribbon through.

[99]Knit three plain turns with the small needle. In the next row, bring the
wool forward, knit two together.

Knit three plain rows. In the next,—bring the wool forward, knit two
together; repeat the same, until the sock be of the height
desired.—Cast off very loosely.

Another Baby’s Sock.

Four-thread fleecy, or four-thread Lady Betty’s wool.—No. 11 needles.

Cast on twenty-six stitches.

First row—pearl two; knit two; alternately, to the end of the row.

Second row—knit two; pearl two.

Third row—Pearl two; knit two.

Fourth row—Pearl knitting.

Repeat the above four rows, twelve times,—making altogether fifty-two
rows—but, in the fifty-second row, pearl fourteen stitches only,[100] and
cast off the remaining twelve stitches. Then,—

Raise fourteen stitches, pearling them at the same time, at the
commenced end, leaving twelve, to correspond with those cast off at the
other end. Repeat the four rows, as before, three times,—making in all
twelve rows. Fasten off, by drawing up these stitches with a needle and
wool, to form the toe, and sew up the shoe at the sole.

Twenty-seven stitches are now to be raised at the top of the shoe, round
the leg; then,—alternately pearl one row, and knit one row, for five
rows, and cast off.—This forms a finish to the top. The shoe is to be
laced across with ribbon.

A Baby’s Stocking.

Cast on twenty-three stitches in brown,—No. 18 needles, and knit six
turns,—increasing one stitch at each end, for the toe and heel.

[101]Knit six turns, increasing one stitch only, at the toe. There will now
be forty-one stitches on the needle. Cast off twenty-five stitches, and
knit the remaining sixteen stitches, for eighteen turns. One side of the
shoe and instep will now be made.

Cast on twenty-five stitches, and work the other side of the shoe to
correspond.

Pick up the stitches, with white, across the instep. Knit two turns,
catching in one loop of the sides of the shoe, in each row, to join them
together.

Knit one turn in brown; two in white; one in brown; two in white; and
one in brown.—The shoe and instep will now be finished.

Pick up the stitches of the shoe, on each side of the piece which forms
the instep. There should now be forty stitches on the needle.

Knit seven turns in white; then, eighteen turns, increasing a stitch at
the beginning and end of every other turn. Knit three plain[102] turns; then
eighteen turns,—decreasing one stitch in every other turn, at the
beginning and end.

Forty stitches will now be found on the needle. Knit and pearl two,
alternately, for five turns. Knit two plain rows. Knit one row in red;
then, cast off loosely.

The shoe is to be sewn up into its shape, and the stocking closed up.

A Carriage Boot.

Two colours,—say blue and claret,—four, or six-thread fleecy,—Needles
No. 6.

Cast seventeen stitches on each of three needles, with claret; pearl six
rounds, knit five rounds.—Then,—

With blue,—knit one round, pearl one round, alternately, for six
rounds.

With claret,—repeat the last six rounds.

Repeat the two last stripes, twice. Then,[103]—

From the first needle,—knit fourteen stitches, with claret; join on the
blue; knit twenty-three, leaving fourteen stitches (claret),
corresponding with the other side, on the third needle; then, turn back
and knit five rows, slipping the first stitch at the commencement of
each row.

Repeat the last stripe, three times; first—with claret, second—with
blue, third—with claret.

In the next three stripes of the alternate colours, knit two together at
the commencement, and end, of every third row. Then,—knit one stripe
(claret), knitting two together at the commencement of each row. Cast
off.—This finishes the front of the boot.

Commence again at the fourteen claret stitches that were left on the
first needle,—knit these, and cast on another thirty-six stitches in
claret; knit six plain rows.—In the next row, knit two together, at the
commencement.[104] Knit nine more rows, knitting two together at the
commencement of every other row.—In the next four rows,—knit two
together at the commencement of each row.—This completes the first half
of the foot.

Knit the fourteen remaining stitches on the third needle, casting on
thirty-six stitches, as before, and finish the other half of the foot in
the same manner.

The two halves of the foot are then to be sewn together, and the foot
sewn to the front of the boot.

A double-knitted Night-Sock.

Cast on eighty-eight stitches in white, four or six-thread fleecy.—No.
3 needles.

N.B. In every row the first stitch is to be slipped;—the last stitch is
to be plain knitted.

First row—plain knitting.

Second row—knit one, pass the wool forward; slip one, pass the wool
back.—Repeat.

[105]Repeat the second row, twenty-eight times.

Thirty-first row—knit sixty-two stitches, the same as second row;
then,—knit two together, to the end of the row.

Thirty-second row—cast off twenty-five stitches; knit thirty-eight
stitches, same as second row; cast off remaining twenty-five stitches.

Knit twenty rows, the same as second row.

Fifty-second row—slip one; knit two together; knit fourteen stitches,
the same as second row; knit two together; knit the remaining stitches,
the same as second row.

Fifty-third row—repeat the last.

Fifty-fourth row—slip one; knit two together; knit the remaining
stitches, the same as second row.

Repeat the last row, seven times.

Sixty-second row—slip one; knit two together; knit eight stitches,
the same as second row; knit two together; knit the remaining stitches,
the same as second row.

[106]Sixty-third row—repeat the last.

Knit three rows, the same as second row.

Draw up the stitches for the toe, and sew up the back and front.

A Frileuse or Neck Tippet.

Cast on thirty stitches, with double German wool.—Needles, one inch and
three quarters in circumference.

Plain knit thirty rows, slipping the first stitch of every row.—Cast
off loosely.

Tie with cords and small tassels.

Wheel pattern for Tidies, etc.

Flax knitting thread, No. 10.—Needles, No. 18. Cast on any number of
stitches that can be divided by ten.

First row—knit one; bring the thread forward, knit three; slip one;
knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; knit three; bring the
thread forward.—Repeat.

[107]Second row—plain knitting.

Repeat these two rows, alternately.

Knitted Coral.

Cast on four stitches, with fine flat scarlet worsted braid, No. 19
needles.

Plain knitting, but slipping the first stitch of every row.

Hints on Knitting.

A plain stitch at the beginning of each row, commonly called an edge
stitch, is a great improvement in most instances, as it makes an
uniform edge, and the pattern is kept more even at its commencement. In
most knitting, the edge-stitch is slipped.

It is easiest to learn to knit, by holding the wool over the fingers of
the left hand; the position of the hands is more graceful when thus
held.

It is always advisable to cast off loosely.

[108]When it is requisite to cast off, and continue the row on a separate
needle, it is sometimes better to run a coarse silk through the cast off
stitches; they are easily taken up, when required, and the inconvenience
of the idle needle is avoided.

In knitting, when a pattern is spoken of, it means as many rows as form
the pattern.

THE END.

[i]Just published, in post 8vo. elegantly bound, price 10s. 6d. carefully
revised, and considerably enlarged, with additional Woodcuts of
Patterns, etc.

The Third Edition
OF THE
HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK,
BEING A COMPLETE GUIDE TO EVERY KIND OF DECORATIVE
NEEDLEWORK, CROCHET, KNITTING, AND NETTING,
WITH A BRIEF HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
OF EACH ART.

BY
MISS LAMBERT.

WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD, OF
PATTERNS, IMPLEMENTS, ETC.

CRITICAL NOTICES OF THE WORK.

“One of Mr. Murray’s series of Handbooks, which seem destined to embrace
all the arts of life as well as all the sights in the world. Miss
Lambert’s[ii] treatise is one of practical utility, its information being
the product of experience: after sketching the history of needlework, it
proceeds to describe the various kinds of materials used, such as wool,
silk, gold thread, beads, &c.; the canvas, patterns, frames, and
implements, required; the different kinds of stitches; the mode of
working certain patterns and shapes; the processes of embroidery,
knitting, and netting. The volume is very handsomely got up, and
illustrated profusely with wood-cuts; nothing seems wanting to its
completeness.”—Spectator.

“We venture to recommend it as containing a great deal of practical
information respecting embroidery, frame work, knitting, netting,
braiding, bead work, and other profound mysteries, of which we, of the
uglier sex, know nothing…. We soon became interested in the historical
portion, which is gracefully and well written—so that the work is a
good book, instructive when the party consulting it desires instruction,
and amusing whenever she is weary of work. Miss Lambert observes in her
Preface, that she has endeavoured, and we will add successfully, ‘to
embrace those subjects which appeared most worthy of notice in a
Treatise on Decorative Needlework, and by combining a brief historical
sketch, with a detailed account of the practice of each department, to
render them more generally interesting than a mere manual of directions
and examples.'”—Athenæum.

“This is the most curious, complete, and erudite treatise on the art of
needlework that has, probably, ever been compiled…. The variety,
fulness, and systematic arrangement of the book, not to say one word
about its numerous engravings, and the remarkably elegant style in which
it is ‘gotten up,’ demand unmixed applause.”—Atlas.

“A very elegant and useful work. The directions how to ply the needle
are plain and easy of comprehension, and the plates which accompany the
letterpress and illustrate the designs, will be found of great
assistance to the ready acquirement of the art and its numerous
principles. The ample instructions for drawing patterns, purchasing
implements, framing, and properly finishing work, will be found not the
least available portion of the book.”—Literary Gazette.

“An eminently practical work; clear in its explanation, precise in its
directions, natural in its arrangements. The style is simple and easy;
the collateral information abundant. Its value is enhanced by historical
notices,[iii] which have been prepared with judgment and knowledge, and are
not disfigured by the slightest affectation.”—Polytechnic Review.

“The first edition of Miss Lambert’s ‘Hand-book’ has been entirely sold
off, a better proof of its excellence than aught we could say in its
behalf; and a second edition has just appeared with an embossed cover,
which will render it an ornament to the drawing-room table, as well as
an object of utility from the nature of its contents. To this edition
several new patterns and engravings have been added, and additional
directions for crochet, knitting, netting, &c.”—Morning Post.

“The authoress seems to be thoroughly mistress of her craft, and has
produced not only a very instructive, but a very amusing volume upon a
branch of the fine arts now become again so fashionable…. A more
elegant or entertaining volume can scarcely be found on a drawing-room
table.”—Globe.

“This is a pleasant book, a good book, and a book worthy to be bought by
mothers and daughters, and studied, con amore, in quiet parlours and
snug nurseries. It is well produced. Its knowledge is practical, as a
few extracts, which may be of advantage to our readers, will best
show.”—Pictorial Times.

“Replete with excellent practical information, clear and concise rules
for acquiring a knowledge of all the varied branches of the art,
illustrated by a series of beautifully executed designs, representing
implements, patterns, material, and numerous articles of modern
fancy-work, eminently calculated to initiate the unlearned (aye, and
learned too) in all the mysteries of tent-stitch, embroideries, braid,
appliqué, bead, chenille, canvas, and Berlin work, &c. In short, the
work justifies its title; it possesses an elegant exterior, and we
prognosticate that few ladies will willingly dispense with so much
silent instruction.”—Sunday Times.

“The pretty volume now before us, has been compiled with exceeding care,
and strict attention to the most minute details; all is
well-arranged…. The illustrations are a valuable addition to the
interest and information of a volume which deserves a place on the table
of every lady.”—Art Union.

“A new and carefully revised edition of this very elegant work is here
presented to us, and we do not hesitate to assure our fair readers, that
they will find it highly deserving of a place on the boudoir and
drawing-room tables. The volume, we should premise, is exclusively
devoted to ornamental[iv] needlework, and will be found as interesting as
it is useful, for, in addition to very clear and accurate instructions
for acquiring a proficiency in every branch of the art, it contains an
historical notice of its cultivation from the earliest ages.”—Court
Journal.

“This ‘Hand-book‘ cannot fail to assist the best taste; utile et dulce
have been carefully blended, and the descriptive letter-press has
evidently been given by a well-informed mind.”—Court Gazette.

“This elegantly printed volume contains a complete encyclopædia of
information for the fair votaries of the needle. The various mysteries
of tapestry work, embroidery-work, and so forth, are fully laid open,
with a clearness of statement, and completeness of direction, which
leave nothing to desire.”—Illustrated London News.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

Richards, Printer, 100, St. Martin’s Lane.

THE LADIES’ LIBRARY,
OF
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